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THE
DOMINION OF CANADA
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THE
DOMINION OF CANADA
WITH
NEWFOUNDLAND AND AN EXCUKSION TO ALASKA
HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS
BY
KA&L BAEDEEEE
WITH 13 MAP» Ain> 12 PLANS
TRniD BBYIBED AND AITOMENTED EDITION
LEIPZIG: KARL BAEDEKER, PUBLISHER
LONDON: T. FISfiER UNWIN, 1 ADELPfll TERRACE, W.C.
NEW YORK: CHARLES SCRIBNER S SONS, 163A FIFTH AVE.
1907
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^
'Go, little book, God send thee good passage,
And specially let this be thy prayere
Unto them all that thee will read or hear,
Where fhou art wrong, after their help to call
Thee to correct in any part or all*.
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PREFACE.
The Handbook to Canada is intended to help the traveller
in planning his tour and disposing of his time to the best
advantage, and thus to enable him the more thoronghly to
enjoy and appreciate the objects of interest he meets with.
The writer is Mr. J, F. Muirhead, M. A., author of the com-
panion volume on the United States, who has personally visited
the greater part of the districts described.
No one is better aware than the Editor himself of the
inevitable imperfections in the early editions of a guidebook;
and the vast extent of the Dominion of Canada has made the
preparation of the present volume a pecnliarhr difficult task.
He nas not attempted to give more than a few suggestions
and hints for the traveller's guidance in the less-known parts
of the territory, where a journey still necessarily assumes
something of the nature of an exploration. In such cases a
book cannot take the place or perform the services of a living
guide. The Editor hopes that the present volume will con-
tinue to share in the advantages that accrue to the whole series
of his Handbooks from the valuable and highly appreciated
corrections and suggestions of the travelling public.
In the preparation of the Handbook the Editor has re-
ceived most material aid from friends in all parts of the
Dominion. In particular he wishes to express his obligations
to the Dominion and Provincial ministers and officials, to
the superior officials of the leading Railway Companies, and
to the librarians of the Parliamentary Library at Ottawa.
Grateful acknowledgments are also specially due, in addition
to those individuals mentioned throughout the Handbook,
to Dr. Benjamin i^anc? of Cambridge (Mass.) ; Mr. W, D. Light-
hally Mr, Albert J. Brown^ Professor Alexander Johnson^ Mr,
C. H. Gouldy and the AbbS Verreau, of Montreal; Sir J. M.
Le Moine, the Abbi Laflamrhe, Major William Wood, Mr. E.
T, D. ^Chambers, Mr, Frank Carrel, and Mr. H. M, Price,
of Quebec; Professor Mavor, Professor David R, Keys, and
Mr. James Batn, of Toronto: Dr. Samuel E, Dawson, Dr.
Reginald Daly, Mr. E. W, Thomson, Mr. W. D. Le Sueur ^
Dr. Doughty, and Mr: F. A. Dixon, of Ottawa; Mr. J. J.
Stewart and Mr. F. Blake Crofton, of Halifax; the Rev. W.
0. Raymond, of St. John; Mr. Frederick M, Stirling and
vi PREFACE.
«7ti^6iVoti^«e, of St John*s, Newfoundland; Mr, A, O. Wheeler^
of Calgary ; Mr. J. S. Eendrie and Mr. John T. Hall, of HamU-
ton; the Itev. Father Lemieux, Tadonsac; Lieut. Col. Button
and Mr. F. W. Heubach, of Winnipeg; Mr. W. E, Flumer-
/e/^^f Vanconver; and Mr, Herbert Cuthbert, of Victoria.
.The introdnctory articles by Sir John Bourinot, Dr. George
Dawson, and Messrs, Fuller and Chambers wUl, it is hoped,
be found of material valne to the tourist. An intelligent
comprehension of the subjects of which they treat will nn-
donbtedly add greatly to the zest of a visit to Canada.
On the Maps and Plans the Editor has bestowed especial
care ; and it is believed that in this respect tiie Handbook is
more completely equipped than any other publication of the
kind relating to Canada. Such merit as they possess is largely
due to the kind and efficient cooperation of Mr. Edouard
Deville, Surveyor General of Dominion Lands, and Mr, James
White, Geographer of the Department of the Interior. The
present edition has been enriched by three new maps and five
new plans.
The Populations are those of the census of 1901 ; but
it should be borne in mind that these are often very much
below the present figures.
• Hotels. The Editor has endeavoured to Enumerate, not
only the first-class hotels, but also the more deserving of the
cheaper houses. The comfort of a Canadian hotel is, however,
much more likely to be in die direct ratio of its charges than
is the case in Europe (comp. p. xix). Although changes fre-
quently take place, and prices generally have an upward ten-
dencv, the average charges stated in the Handbook will
enable the traveUer to form a fair estimate of his expen-
diture. The value of the asterisks, which are used as marks
of commendation, is relative only, signifying that the houses
are good of their kind.
To hotel -proprietors, tradesmen, and others the Editor
begs to intimate that a character for lair dealing and courtesy
towards travellers forms the sole passport to his commend-
ation, and that advertisements of every kind are strictly
excluded from his Handbooks. Hotel-keepers are also warned
against persons representing themselves as agents |br Bae-
deker's Handbooks.
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CONTENTS.
Pag©
I. Money. Expenses. Passports. Gustom House. Time xi
II. Voyage f^om Europe to Canada xli
III. Railways. Steamers. Coaches xili
IV. Plan and Season of Tour xvi
V. Hotels and Restaurants xix
VI. Post and Telegraph Offices xxl
VII. Chief Dates in Canadian History xxii
VIII. The Constitution of Canada, by 8W J, O. Bowinot . , xxvl
IX. Oeographioal and Oeological Sketch, hy O, M Dawson xxxiii
X. Sports and Pastimes , by £7^ T. D, Chambers and
W, H. FuUer xlix
XI. BibUography Ixi
Qo^i^ I. Approaohes to Canada.
1. The Trans-Atlantic Voyage 2
2. From New York to Montreal 9
3. From Boston to Montreal 17
4. From New York to Quebec yi& Springfield 20
5. From Boston to Quebec 21
6. From New York to Toronto 21
7. From Boston to the Maritime Provinces by Sea 22
8. From Boston to St. John by Railway • 24
9. From Portland to Montreal and Quebec 25
n. New Bnuuiwiok.
10. St. John 27
11. From St. John to Fredericton 33
12. From Fredericton to Woodstock 39
13. From Woodstock to Grand Falls and Edmundston . • . . 40
14. From St. John to St Stephen and St Andrews ..... 41
15. CampobeUo and Orand Manan 44
16. From St John to Montreal 46
17. From St. John to Quebec (L^tIs) 48
m. Kova Seotia.
18. Halifax 50
19. From Halifax to Sydney. Cape Breton. Bras d'Or Lakes.
Louisbourg 59
20. From Halifax to St John 71
21. From Halifax to Yarmouth nnfrMi\e> '^^
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Yili CONTENTS.
Eoute Pago
22. From Digby to Yarmouth 82
23. From Windsor to Truro 82
24. From HftUfAx to Quebec (Ltfvis) by BwlwAy 83
IV. Pri&oe Edward Island and Kewfonndlaad.
26. Prince Edward Island 97
26. Newfoundland 102
27. St. Pierre and Miquelon 124
Y. Quebeo.
28. Montreal 126
29. From Montreal to Quebec 139
30. Quebec .145
31. Excursions from Quebec (Ltfvis, Isle of Orleans, Falls
of Montmorency and Ste. Anne de Beauprtf, Loiette, ,
Chailesbourg, Lake Beauport, Lake St. Charles) . . .157
32. From Quebec to Lake St John and Chicoutlmi 161
33. From Quebec to Chicoutimi. The Saguenay 166
VI. Ontario.
34. From Montreal to Ottawa 174
36. Ottawa 176
36. From Ottawa to Kingston by Steamer 183
37. From Ottawa to Montreal by Steamer 184
38. From Montreal to Toronto 186
39. Toronto 190
40. From Toronto to North Bay. Muskoka District 197
41. From Ottawa to Depot Harbour (Parry Sound) 203
42. From Toronto to Detroit 205
43. From Toronto to Niagara (and Buffalo) 208
44. From Detroit to Buffalo 212
45. Niagara Falls 216
46. From Toronto to Owen Sound and Fort William .... 222
47. From Toronto to Montreal by Steamer. The St. Lawrence
River and the Thousand Islands 226
48. From Montreal to Port Arthur and Fort WilUam .... 230
49. From North Bay to New Liskeard. Temagami Region . . 237
Vn. Western and North- Western Proyinees.
50. From Fort WiUiam and Port Arthur to Winnipeg .... 242
51. Winnipeg 245
52. From Winnipeg to Banff 250
53. FromWinnipeg to Edmonton via Canadian Northemjtail way 262
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MAPS AND PLANS. ix
Route Page
54. From Dunmoie Janctlon to Lethbridge and Kootenay
Landing 266
65. From Banff to Vancouver 268
56. From RoTelstoke to Arrowhead, Robson, and Nelson.
Kootenay Region 287
57. From Vancouver to Victoria 289
Vni. Alaska and the Yukon.
58. From Victoria to Sitka. The Yukon Region 293
Grand Trunk Pacific Railway 307
Index r . 309
Maps.
1. Railway Map op Southbbn Canada; before the title-page
(1:10,000,000).
2. Envibons op New Yom; p. 10 (1 : 210,000).
3. The Mabitimb Pbovinobs; p. 58 (1 : 2,200,000).
4. Nbwpoundland ; p. 103 (1 : 4,500,000).
5. Pbovincb op Qubbbc, from Quebec to Ottawa; p. 138
(1:2,000,000).
6. The Saouenay Riyeb and Lake St. John; p. 170
(1 : 1,750,000).
7. Pbovincb op Ontabio, from Ottawa to Parry Sound and Hamil-
ton, p. 186 (1 : 2,000,000).
8. Lake Ebie and Envibons , from Toronto to Saginaw Bay and
Toledo ; p. 204 (1 : 2,000,000).
9. St. Maby»s Riveb; p. 224 (1 : 400,000).
10. Envibons op Banfp; p. 259 (1 : 282,000).
11. The Selkibk Range; p. 275 (1 : 250,000).
12. Coast op Bbitish Colxtmbia and Alaska; p. 292
(1 : 4,500,000).
13. Genebal Map op Bbitish Nobth Amebica; after the Index
(1 : 20,000,000).
Plans.
1. Halifax (p. 60). — 2. Hamilton (p. 210). — 3. Monteeal
(p. 126). — 4. NiAOABA (p. 215). — 5. Ottawa (p. 177). — 6.
Quebec (p. 146). — 7. St. John (p. 27). — 8. Sault Stb. Mabie
fp. 224). — 9. ToBONTo (p. 190). — 10. Vancouveb (p. 285Y —
11. ViOTOBIA AND ESQUIMALT (p. 290). — 12. WINNIPEG (p. 245).
Digitized byCjOOQlC
ABBREVIATIONS.
Abbreviations.
R. sa Room, Route; B. = Breakfast; D. =a Dinner; L. »
Luncheon ; Rfmts. ss refreBhments. — N. ss North, Northern, etc ;
S. = South, etc.; E. = East, etc.; W. = West, etc. — M. =
English (or Ameiican) Mile; ft. = EngL foot; mln. =s minute;
hr. ^ hour; ca. ^ circa, about. — Ho. ^ House; Hot im
Hotel; Ave. s=s Avenue; St. = Street; R.R. = railroad; Mt. =
Mountain. — U. S. = United States ; P. Q. s» Province of Quebec;
Ont. = Ontario; N. B. = New Brunswick; N. S. =s Nova Scotia;
P. E. L = Prince Edward Island; Man. s Manitoba; Alta. =
Alberta; Sask. sa Saskatchewan; N. W. T. =a North- West Terri-
tories; B. C. s= British Columbia.
The letter d with a date, after the name of a person, indicates
the year of his death. The number of feet given after the name of
a place shows its height above the sea-level. The number of miles
placed before the principal places on railway -routes indicates their
distance from the starting-point of the route. •
AsTBBisKS are used as marks of commendation.
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INTEODUCTION.
*A daughter in her moiher'8 house,
Bat mistresa in her own/ Kipling,
I. Money. Expenses. Passports. Custom Honse. Time.
Money. The currency of the Dominion of Canada ig arranged on
a decimal system similar to that of the United States, the unit heing
the dollar ($), divided into 100 cents (o.). Canada has no gold coins
of its own, hut the gold coins of the United States are current at
par and British gold coins pass at the rate of il, = $4. 862/3. The
silver coins are the half-dollar (50 c). the quarter-dollar (26 0. a= ia.\
and pieces of 20 c, 10 c, and 5 c. The hronze coins are of the value
of 1 c. (V2<^0 a^id ^ 0- (l^O- The cent, for purposes of calculation,
is divided into 10 mills, but there are no coins of this denomination.
The 20 c. piece, the main function of which seems to he the decep-
tion of the unwary stranger by its resemblance to a 'quarter* (the
Sovereign's head, however, has a wreath instead of a crown), is no
longer coined, and is seldom met with, except in the Maritime Prov-
inces and Newfoundland. The Oovemment Paper Currency consists
of notes of the denomination of 25 c. (seldom seen and not now
issued), $1, $2, and $4. The chartered and incorporated banks
of the Dominion issue notes for $ 5 and multiples of that sum,
which are payable at par throughout Canada. For practical purposes
the dollar may be reckoned as 4«. and $ 5 as If., though (see above)
the actual rate of exchange for il. is $4. 86^/3 (or $ 1 = ca. 4«. 2d.).
The European or United States visitor to Oanada will find it convenient
to carry his money in the form of letters of credit or circular notes, which
are readily procurable at the principal banks. British and American silver
coins circulate throughout the Dominion at a depreciation of 20 per cent
(1«. or 26 c. U.S. currency =s 20 c); and travellers should be on their guard
against accepting American silver coins at par value. In many of the
larger cities, however («.^. Montreal), American silver is ^accepted at its
face value. In a few places (comn. p. 87) French gold or silver coins are
accepted at the rate of 1 franc = 16 e. Bank of England notes are usually
taken at their full value in the larger cities, but United States paper is
often refused.
Post Office Orders (see p. xxi) afford a convenient vehicle for the trans-
mission of small sums, and similar Money Orders are issued by the large
Express Companies (p. xvi), which idso transmit money by telegraph.
Ezpemies. The expenses of a visit to Canada depend, of course,
on the habits and tastes of the traveller, but may be said, roughly
speaking, to be much the same as those of European travel (except
in respect of the greater distances to be traversed) and considerably
less than those of the United States. The hotels which charge as
much as $ 5 a day can be numbered on one^s fingers, and the average
hotel expenses will not exceed $ 3 a day, while in some parts of the
Dominion (e,g. Nova Scotia) they will be less than that. Persons of
xii I. CUSTOM HOUSE.
moderate requirements, by frequenting boaiding-houses instead of
hotels and avoiding carriage-hire as much as possible, may travel
comfortably (exclusive of long continuous journeys) for $4-6 a day;
but it would be safer to reckon on a daily expenditure of $ 7-8 (28-
32a.). An entire day (24 hrs.) spent in the train (i.e. a journey of
400-800 M.) costs, with Pullman car accommodation and meals, about
$ 16-20 (3-4{.). The expenses of locomotion can often be materially
diminished by travelling by water instead of by land.
Passports are not necessary in Canada.
Cugtoin House. The custom-house examination of the luggage
of travellers entering Canada is generally conducted courteously but
oft^ with considerable minuteness. Nothing is admitted free of
duty, except the personal effects of the traveller, and unusually liberal
supplies of unworn clothing are apt to be regarded with considerable
suspicion. The traveller should be careful to ^declare' everything he
has of a dutiable nature (tobacco, cigars, spirits, photographic
plates, etc.), as otherwise it is liable to confiscation. Persons visiting
Canada for a limited time may bring in guns, bicycles, cameras,
fishing tackle, and the like for their own use on depositing a sum
equal to the duty, which Is returnable on departure tiom the country.
If desired, articles may be forwarded In bond to any point in Canada
where a customs-officer is stationed.
In accordance with an Act of 1903 a head-tax of $ 2 may be levied
on every foreigner entering tbe United States, with the exception of
citizens of Canada, Ifewfonndland, Mexico, and Cuba. This tax is gene-
rally included in the passage-money paid by travellers reaching the United
States by sea, but Europeans may have to pay it each time they cross
the frontier firom Canada.
Time. For the convenience of railways and others a Standard
of Time for Canada has been agreed upon and a system adopted by
which the country is divided into five sections, each (theoretically)
of 15® of longitude (1 hr.) and corresponding to the similar divisions
of the United States. AUantic Time, or that of the 60th Meridian,
prevails from the Atlantic coast to (roughly speaking) a line run-
ning through Campbellton (p. 91). Eastern Time, or that of the
75th Meridian, 1 hr. slower, extends thence to Fort William (p. 236).
Central Time (of Meridian 90), extends thence to Brandon (p. 25l1.
Mountain Time (105® long.) extends thence to Laggan Qp. 268).
Pacific Time (120®) covers the rest of the country. Thus noon at
Montreal is 11 a.m. at Winnipeg, 10 a.m. at Calgaxy, and 9 a.m. at
Vancouver or Victoria. True local or mean solar time may be any-
where from 1 min. to 30 min. ahead of or behind the standard time ;
and in some cases, where the ordinary clocks keep local time and
the railway clocks keep standard time, the results are confusing.
n. Voyage from Europe to Canada.
The chief routes from Europe to Canada are briefly described
in R. 1 ; and the steamers of any of the companies there mention-
m. RAILWAYS. xlii
ed afford comfortable accommodation and speedy transit. The fareg
yary consideiably according to the season and the character of the
vessel; hnt the extremes for a saloon-passage may he placed at $60
(12t.) and $ 600 (100^.), the latter sum securing a suite of deck-rooms
on the largest, finest, and quickest hoats in the service. The average
rate for a good stateroom in a good steamer may he reckoned at
$66-126 (13-25«.). The intermediate or second cahin costs $40-65
(8-13i.), the steerage $ 26-30 (5-61.). The slowest steamers, as a
general rule, have the lowest fares j and they often offer as much
comfort as the 'ocean greyhounds.'
The average duration of the passage across the Atlantic is 6-9 days.
The best time for crossing is in summer. Passengers should pack cloth-
ing and other necessaries for the voyage in small flat boxes (not port-
manteaus), such as can lie easily in the cabin, as all bulky luggage is
stowed away in the hold. Stateroom trunks should not exceed 9 ft. in
length, li/r*^ ft. in hreadth, and 15 inches in height. Trunks not wanted
on board should be marked 'Hold* or 'Xot Wanted*, the others ^Oabin* or
'Wanted*. The steamship companies generally provide labels for this
purpose. Dress for the voyage should be of a plain and serviceable de-
scription, and it is advisable, even in midsummer, to be provided with warm
clothing. A deck-chair, which is a luxury that may almost be called a
necessary, may be purchased before starting (from 6«. or 7$. upwards) but
is now more often hired from the deck-steward (2-4«.)* If bought, it
should be distinctly marked with the owner*s name or initials, and may
be left in charge of the Steamship Co.*8 agents until the return-journey.
Seats at table, retained throughout the voyage, are usually assigned by
the Saloon Steward immediately after starting ^ and those who wish seats
'at a particular table or beside particalar persons should apply to him.
It is usual to give a fee of 10«. (2i/t dollars) to the table-steward and to
the stateroom-steward, and small gratuities are also expected by the boot-
cleaner, the bath-steward, etc. The customary fees are, of course, much
lower in the second cabin.
On arrival at Montreal, Halifax, or Xew York, passengers* luggage is ex-
amined in a covered hall adjoining the wharf. After the examination the tra-
veller may hire a carriage to take himself and his baggage to his destination,
or he mav send his trunks by a transfer-agent or express man (see p. xvi)
and go himself on foot or by tramway. Telegraph messengers and re-
presentatires of hotels also meet the steamers. The traveller should know
the exact telegraph -rates (comp. pp. xzi, 10), as mistakes (not to hi0
advantage) sometunea occur.
m. Bailways. Steamers. Coaches.
Bailways. The Dominion of Canada now contains about 20,600 M.
of railway, or about one-tenth less than the United Kingdom. Fully
two-thirds of the entire amount are in the hands of the Canadian
Pacific BaUway (8298 M. in 1905), the Grand Trunk Railway
(3111 M.), the Canadian Northern System (1880 M.), and the
Government (1449 M.). The capital invested in railways amounted
in 1906 to about $248,666,000 (269,733,200^.), of which about
20 per cent had been contributed by state and municipal aid. In the
same year the railways carried 25,288,723 passengers and 50,893,957
tons of freight. The total receipts were $ 106,467,199, showing a
surplus of about 26 per cent over operating expenses. The standard
gauge (4 ft. 81/2 in.) is in use by almost all the railways of Canada.
— For a note on the new Grand Trunk Pacific BaUway j see p. 307,
xiv ra. RAILWAYS.
The equipments of the Canadian railways are similar to those of the
United States lines, which, as is well known, are very different firom those
of European railways. Instead of comparatively small coaches, divided
into compartments holding 6-8 people each, the American railways have
long cars (like an enlarged tramway-car), holding 60-70 pers., entered by
doors at each end, and having a longitudinal passage down the middle,
with the seats on each side of it. Each seat has room for two passengers.
All long-distance trains are furnished with drawing-room (parlor) cars by
day and sleeping-cars at night, which accommodate about 24-30 people in
the same space as the ordinary cars, and are in every way much more
comfortable. Second-class carriages are much more often provided in
(3anada than in the United States, and emigrant carriages are also found
on some long-distance trains. The second-class cars, however, are not
recommended, and certainly do not rank higher than the third-class car-
riages of Europe. Smoking is not permitted, except in the cars ('Smokers*)
specially provided for the purpose and generally found at the forward end
01 the train. Smoking-compartments are also ususklly found in the parlor-
cars. The vexed question of whether the American or the European rail-
way-carriage is the more comfortable is hard to decide. It may be said
generally, however, that the small-compartment system would never have
done for the long journeys of Ameri<^, while the parlor -cars certainly
offer greater comfort in proportion to their expense than the European
first-class carriages do. In comparing the ordinary American or Canadian
car with the second-class or the best third-class carriages of Europe, some
travellers may be Inclined to give the preference for short journeys to the
latter. The seats in the American cars offer very limited room for two
persons, and their backs ace too low to afford any support to the head;
a single crying infant or spoiled child annoys 60-70 persons instead of the
few in one compartment; the passenger has little control over his window,
as someone in the car is sure to object if he opens it; the continual open-
ing and shutting of the doors, with the consequent dbraughts, are annoy- «
ing; the incessant visitation of the train-boy, with his books, candy, and
other articles for sale, renders a quiet nap almost impossible; while, in
the event of an accident, there are only two exits for 60 people instead
of six or eight. On the other hand, the liberty of moving about the car,
or, in fact, from end to end of the train, the toilette accommodation, and
the amusement of watching one's fellow-passengers greatly mitigate the
tedium of a long journey; while the publicity prevents any risk of the
railway crimes sometimes perpetrated in the separate compartments of the
European system. Bugs, as a rule, are not necessary, as the cars are apt
to be over, rather tiiian under, heated. Little accommodation is provided
in the way of luggage-racks , so that travellers should reduce their hand-
baggage to the smallest possible dimensions. ~~ In the sleeping-car, the
passenger engages a ffal/-S«eiion, consisting of a so-called ^double berth*,
which, however, is rarely used by more than one person. If desirous of
more air and space, he may engage a whole Section (at double the rate of
a half-section), but in many cases a passenger is not allowed to mono-
polize a whole section to the exclusion of those not otherwise able to find
accommodation. Parties of 2-4 may secure Drawing Roomt^ or private'
compartments. A lower berth is generally considered preferable to an
upper berth, as it is easier to get into and commands the window; but,
by what seems a somewhat illiberal regulation, the upper berth is always
let down, whether occupied or not, unless the whole section is paid for.
So far nothing has been done towards reserving a special part of the car
for ladies, except in the shape of a small toilette and dressing room. The
so-called Tourist Sleeping Oars, found on some lines, are fairly comfortable
and may be used with advantage by those to whom economy is important;
the Colonitt Cars have wooden bunks only, without bedding. — Dining
Cars are often attached to long-distance trains, and the meals and service
upon them are frequently better than those of the railway-restaurants. —
Tickets are collected in the train by the Conductor (guard), who some-
times gives numbered checks in exchange for them. Separate tickets are
issued for the seats in parlor-cars and the berths in sleeping-cars ; and
III. RAILWAYS. XV
sucli ears generally have special conductors. Fees are not usual, except
to the coloured Porters of the parlor-cars, who hrush the traveller's clothes
and (on overnight journeys) boots , and expect about 25 c. a day. In
Oanada the traveller is left to rely upon his own common sense still
more freely than in England, and no attempt is made to take care of
him in the patriarchal fashion of European railways. He should, there-
fore, be careful to see that he is in his proper car, etc. The conductor calls
*all aboard*, when the train is about to start, and on many lines a warning
bell is rung. The names of the places passed are not always shown distinctly
(sometimes not at all) at the itations, and the brakeman, whose duty it
is to announce each station as the train reaches it, is apt to be entirely
uhintelligible. A special word of caution may be given as to the frequent
necessity for crossing the tracks, as the rails 'Are often flush with the floor
of the station and foot-bridges or tunnels are rarely provided. Each
locomotive carries a large bell, which is tolled as it approaches stations
or level (*grade*) crossings. — The speed of (Canadian trains is generally
lower than that of Enelish trains ; ana over a large portion of the country
it does not exceed 20-25 H. per hour even for through-trains.
The average rate of Far§ may be stated at about 3 c. per mile, though
the rate is lower for season, ^commutation' (good for so many trips), or
mileage tickets. The extra rate for the palace -cars (>/3-lc. per mile) is
low as compared with the difference between the first and third class fares
in England, and the extra comfort afforded is very great. Betum-tickets
(^excursion* or *round trip' tickets) are UBuallT issued at considerable reduc-
tions. The thousand-mile tickets, from which the conductor collects cou-
pons representing the number of miles travelled, are a convenient arrange-
ment which European railways might do well to introduce. A distinction
is frequently made between Ujimited' and ^Unlimited' tickets, the former
and cheaper admitting of continuous passage onlv, without ^stopovers';
and the latter being available until used and admitting of 'stopovers' at
any place on the route. — At the railway-stations, the place of the first,
second, and third class waiting-rooms of Europe is taken by a L<»dies*
Room, to which men are also generally admitted if not smoking, and a
Men's Room, in which smoking is usually permitted.
Among the American Railway Terms with which the traveller should
be familiar (in addition to those already incidentally mentioned) are the
following. Railroad is generally used instead of railway (the latter term
being more often applied to street railways, i.e. tramways), while the
word 'Boad' alone is often used to mean railroad. The carriages are called
Cars, The Conductor is aided by Braiemm, whose duties include attention
to the heating and lighting of the cars. A slow train is called an Accomr
modation or Wap Train, The Ticket Office is never called booking-office.
Luggage is Baggage, and is expedited through the Baggage Master (see
below). Depot is very commonly used instead of station, and in many
places the latter word, when used alone, means police-station. Other terms
in common use are t fwm-otil ss siding \ htmper = buffer *, hox-ear =s closed
goods-car^ caiboose = guard's van \ freight-train s goods train; ears =s train ;
to pull out Si io start ; ifoy station s small, wayside station ; eow-cateher =
fender in front of engine ; switch = shunt ; switches = points. — The only
general railway-guide of Canada is the International Railway Guide, pub-
lished at Montreal monttily (price 25 c), which includes a useful gazetteer
of Canadian towns and villages. Local collections of time-tables are
everywhere procurable, and those of each railway -company may be
obtained gratis at the ticket-offices and in hotels. The more important rail-
way-companies publish a mass of 'folders' and descriptive pamphlets, which
are distributed gratis and give much information about the country trav-
ersed. These are often very skilftQly prepared and well illustrated.
Luggage. Each patMenger on a Canadian railway is generally entitled
to 160 lbs. of luggage Cbaggage') free. The so-called Chech System makes
the management of luggage very simple. On arrival at the station , the
traveller shows his railway ticket and hands over his impedimenta to the
Baggage Master, who fastens a small metal or cardboard tag to each article
and gives the passenger aSmllar 'checks' with corresponding numbers. The
xvi IV. PLAN OF TOUR.
railway -company then becomes responsilile for the luggage and holds it
until reclaimed at the passenger's destination by the presentation of the
duplicate check. As the train approaches the larger cities, a Transfer Agent
sometimes walks through the cars, undertaking the delivery of luggage and
giving receipts in exchange for the checks. The charge for this is usually
26 c. per package, and it is thus more economical (though a composition
may sometimes be effected for a number of articles) to have one large trunk
instead of two or three smaller ones. The hotel-porters who meet the train
will also take the traveller's checks and see that his baggage is delivered
at the hotel. In starting, the trunks may be sent to the railway-station in
the same way, either through a transfer-agent or the hotel-porter; and if
the traveller already has his railway-ticket they may be checked through
from the house or hotel to his destination. Baggage, unaccompanied by
its owner, may be sent to any part of the country by the Expreu Com'
paniet (comp. p. 127), which charge in proportion to weight and distance.
The drawbacks to the transfer-system are that the baggage must usually
be ready to be called for before the traveller himself requires to start,
and that some delay generally takes place in its delivery ; but this may,
of course, be avoided by the more expensive plan of using a carriage.
Steamers. The extensiye system of lakes, navigable liyers, and
canals in Canada affords many opportunities of exchanging the hot
and dusty railway for the cheaper and cooler method of locomotion by
water. The steamers of the O.P.R. on the Great Lakes (see pp.224-226)
rank with the flnedt passenger-steamers for Inland navigation in the
world, and the boats of many other companies (comp. RR. 19b, 21b,
26, 33, 43a, 47, 67, 58) afford fairly comfortable accommodation. An
entire day on a steamer, including berth and meals, rarely costs more
than $ 10 and often costs much less. — For the oceanic steamboat-
lines connecting Canada with the United States in summer, see R. 7.
Coaches. The ordinary tourist will seldom require to avail him-
self of the coach-lines of Canada, for which he may be thankfiil,
as the roads are generally rough, the vehicles uncomfortahle, and
the time slow. The fares are usually moderate. Some of the coach-
ing trips in the Far West (comp. pp. 281, 282) may, however, be
recommended to those who do not object to rough it a little.
Carriages. Carriage- hire is generally considerably lower in
Canada than in the United States, and is sometimes distinctly cheap.
Fares vary so much that it is impossible to give any general ap-
proximation, but the data throughout the text will give the trav-
eller most of the information he requires on this point. When he
drives himself in a 'huggy* or other small carriage, the charges are
relatively much lower than when he employs a coachman.
Electric Tramways. There are ahout 60 electric railways in Ca-
nada, with fthout 800 M. of track and carrying 22 million passengers
annually. The most important are duly mentioned in the text.
IV. Plan and Season of Tour.
The Plan op Toub must depend entirely on the traveller's taste
and the time he has at his disposal. It is manifestly impossible to
cover more than a limited section of so vast a territory in an ordinary
travelling-season: but the enormous distances are practically much
" ' Digitized by V-
IV. PLAN OF TOUR* xtu
diminished by the comfortable arrangements for travelling at night
(oomp. p. xiv). Among the grandest natural features of the country,
one or other of which should certainly be visited if in any wise
practicable, are Niagara Falls (R. 45), the Canadian Pacific Railway
from Banff to Vancouver (R. 56), and the Saguenay (R. 33). Less
imperative than these, but also of great beauty and interest, are
the St Lawrence from Kingston to Montreal (R. 47), the *Land of
Evangeline* fR. 20), the Temagami Region (R. 49), the Muskoka
District (R. 40) , the Great Lakes (R. 46) , the Kootenay Region
(RR. 54, 56), Lake St John (R. 32), the St. John River and Grand
Falls (RR. 11, 13), and the Bras d'Or Lakes (R. 19). Among cities
the romantic 'ancient capital' of Quebec (R. 30) is first in attractior.
and should be included in even the most flying visit to Canada; but
Montreal (R. 28), Toronto (R. 39), Halifax (R. 18), and St. John
(R. 10) are all interesting in their different ways, Ottawa (R. 35), as
the capital of the Dominion, should by all means be included when
practicable, and Winnipeg (R. 51), the youthful and prosperous
capital of Manitoba, also deserves a visit The grand trip to Alaska
(R. 58), though taking us beyond Canadian territory, forms a natural
sequel to the journey across the continent and may be begun at the
charming city of Victoria (p. 289).
Season. The best months for travelling in Canada are, speaking
generally. May, June, September, and October. For the mountain-
region to the W. of Banff the month of August seems to be the
driest and most favourable, although the smoke of forest-fires then
often veils the view. The winter-months have, however, charac-
teristic attractions of their own and for purposes of sport are often,
of course, the best (p. liii). With proper equipment the traveller
will find winter- travelling quite pleasant and easy; and, indeed,
the only season that is really uncomfortable for the traveller is the
thawing spell of early spring.
Where the territory included is so vast and the possible combinations
of tours so endless, it may seem almost useless to attempt to draw up
any specimen tours. The following, however, though not intrinsically
better than hundreds of others, may serve to give the traveller some idea
of the distances to be traversed and of the average expenses of locomotion.
It is, perhaps, needless to say that the traveller will enjoy himself better
if he content himself with a less rapid rate of progress than that here
indicated. A daily outlay of $8-10 will probably cover all the regular
travelling-expenses on the under-noted tours ; and this rate may be much
diminished by longer halts.
a. A Week from Montreal.
(Railway and Steamer Expenses about $ 20) Days
Montreal (R. 28) iVa
Mo treal to Quebec (RE. 29, 30) 2V2
Quebec to LaU 8t. John (R. 32) 1
Lake St. John back to Quebec vift the Saguenay (R. 33) IV2
Quebec back to Montreal (R. 29) |A
Babdxkbk^s Canada. 3rd Bdit. b
Digitized bydOOQlc
xyiii IV. PLAN OF TOUR.
b. A Week in the Maritime Provinoet.
(Fares 3 16-18) Daya
Halifax (R. 18) 1
Halifax vi& the Bvm d*Or Lakes to Sydney and back (R. 19) . . . . 3
Halifax through the ''Evangeline Country" to Annapolie and JHgby (B. 20) . 1
Digby to St. John (BB. 20, 10) I'/a
6V«
[Or, instead of the Cape Breton trip, we may ascend the River St, John
to Fredericton (B. 11 : 1 day) and retorn to St. John via St. Andrew (p. 26 aod
B. 14-, 2 days).]
c. A Fortnight from Toronto.
(Fares $60-56)
Toronto (B. 39) 1
Toronto to Niagara by steamer (BB. 48, 46) 2-3
Niagara to Toronto via Hamilton (B. 48) IV2
Toronto to Montreal by the St. Lawrence (BB. 47, 28) 2V«
Montreal to Ottawa (BB. 34, 85) IVt
Ottawa to I^orth Bay (R. 48) Va
Frdm North Bay to the Temagami and Cobalt IHeiricts and back (R. 49) 2
North Bay to Toronto, with a side-trip into the Muehoka District
(B. 40) ._^ ^
14-16
d. Three Weeks from Hontreal.
(Fares $50)
Montreal to Quebec^ Lake St. John., the Saguenay, and back as at p. xvii
(BB. 28, 29. 30, 32, 33) 7
Montreal to Ottawa^ the Temagami District^ the Muskoka District, and
Toronto as above (BB. 34, 36, 48, 49, 40, 39) 8
Toronto to Niagara and back as above (RB. 43, 45) 8V2-4Vx
Toronto to Montreal by the St. Lawrence as above (B. 47) . . . . . 1V«
20-21
e. Five or Six Weeks from Montreal.
(Fares $220-280)
Montreal to Quebec, Lake St. John, the Saguenay. and back as at p. xvii
(BB. 28, 29, 80, 32, 83) 7
Montreal to Ottawa (BB. 34, 35) 2
Ottawa to Winnipeg (BB. 48, 50, 61) 3
Winnipeg to Banjff' (B. 52) 4
Banff to Laggan and Field (B. 65) 8
Field to Glacier (R. 55) 2
Glacier to Vancouver (B. 56) 1
Vancouver to Victoria and back (B. 67) 3
Vancouver back to Port Arthur vi4 the Kootenay Region (BB. 65, 66,
64, 53, 48) 6
Port Arthur to Owen Sound and Toronto via the Oreat Ltskes (B. 46) 8
Toronto to Niagara and back as above (BB. 48.46) 8^/2
Toronto to Montreal by the St. Lawrence (B. 47) IV2
38
[Many travellers will prefer to vary their routes across the continent
by returning through the United States (see Baedeker*s United States), In
this case they are advised to omit the portion of the Canadian Pacific
Bailway between Ottawa and Port Arthur and to reach the latter point
via Toronto and Owen Sound (B. 46).]
The Pedestrian is unquestionably the most independent of travellers,
but there are few districts of Canada where walking-tours can be re-
commended. Indeed, the extremes of temperature and the scarcity of
well-marked footpaths often offer considerable obstacles, while in the
Far West a stranger on foot might be looked upon with suspicion or even
be exposed to danger from the herds of semi-wild cattle. For a short tour
a couple of flannel shirts, a pair of worsted stockings, slippers, the articles
V. HOTELS. xix
of the toilet, a light waterproof, and a stout umbrella will generally be
found a sufficient supply of impedimenta. Strong and well-tried boots are
essential to comfort. Heavy and complicated knapsacks should be avoided ;
a light pouch or game-bag is far less irksome, and its position may be
shifted at pleasure. A more extensive reserve of clothing should not
exceed the limits of a small portmanteau, which may be forwarded from
town to town by express.
Y. Hotels and Bestaurants.
Hotels. The quality of the Canadian hotels varies considerahly
in different localities. The best hotels of Montreal, Quebec, and
Toronto, those under the management of the Canadian Pacific Rail-
way (at Banff, Vancouver, etc.), and a few at fashionable watering-
places (such as St. Andrews and Murray Bay) leave little opening for
criticism. There are also fair hotels at Ottawa, Halifax, St. John,
and some of the other large cities. The hotels in the smaller towns
and in the country districts can seldom be classed as good, while
sometimes (as in Nova Scotia) they are decidedly bad. A distinct
process of improvement is, however, perceptible. The charges are
considerably less than those of the hotels of the United States ; the
height of $5 a day is reached only in a few instances, and $3-31/2
will probably be found the average rate on an ordinary tour. The
comforts often afforded by the smaller and less pretentious inns of
the* old country can seldom be looked for from Canadian houses of
the second oi third class, and the traveller who wishes to economize
will find boarding-houses (see p. xx) preferable. When ladies are
of the party, it is advisable to frequent the best hotels only. The
food is generally abundant, but the cuisine and quality vary greatly
(comp. p. xx). The service is often excellent, and in this respect
Canadian hotels are, perhaps, superior, class for class, to those of
the United States.
The hotels of Canada are almost entirely managed on the American
Plan, in which a fixed charge is made per day for board and lodging.
Ko separate charge is made for service. The rate varies from about $4
(in a few instances $6) per day in the best houses down to $1 per day
in the smaller towns and country districts. Many of the hotels vary their
rate according to the room, and where two prices are mentioned in the
Handbook the traveller should indicate the rate he wishes to pay. Most
of the objections to rooms on the upper floor are obviated by the ex-
cellent service of 'elevators' (lifts). Very large reductions are made by
the week or for two persons occupying the same room*, and very much
higher prices may be pidd for extra accommodation. Throughout the
Handbook the insertion of a price behind the name of a hotel ($4) means
its rate on the American plan ; where the hotel is on the European plan
(exclusively or alternatively) the price of the room is indicated (^. from
$ 1). The above rates include all the ordinary requirements of hotel-life,
and no ^extras' appear in the bill. The custom or giving fees to the ser-
vants is by no means so general as in Europe, though it is becoming more
common in the larger cities. In hotels on the American system the
meals are usually served at regular hours (a latitude of about 2 hrs. being
allowed for each). The dally charge is considered aa made up of four
items (room, breakfast, dinner, and supper), and the visitor should see
that his bill begins with the first meal he takes. Thus, at a $4 a day
house, if the traveller arrives before supper and leaves after breakfast
the next day, his bill will be $ 3 ; if he arrives after supper and leaves
b»
XX V. RESTAURANTS.
at the same time, $2; and so on. Ko allowance is made for absence
from meals. Dinner is nsnally served in the middle of the day, except
in large cities.
On reaching the hotel, the traveller enters the Office, a large and often
comfortably fitted-up apartment, used as a general rendezvoas and smok-
ing-room, not only oy the hotel-gnests, but often also by local residents.
On one side of it is the desk of the Hotel Clerks who keeps the keys of
the bedrooms, supplies unlimited letter-paper gratis, and is supposed to
be more or less omniscient on all points on which the traveller is likely
to require information. Here the visitor enters his name in the ^register^
kept for the purpose, and has his room assigned to him by the clerk,
who details a *bell-boy' to show him the way to his room and carry up
his hand-baggage. If he has not already disposed of his ^baggage-checks*
in the way described at p. xvi, he should now give them to the clerk
and ask to have his trunks fetched from the station and sent up to his
room. If he has already parted with his checks, he identifies his oaggage
in the hall when it arrives and tells the head-porter what room he wishes
it sent to. On entering the dining-room the visitor is shown to his seat
by the head-waiter, instead of selecting the first vacant seat that suits his
fancy. The table-waiter then hands the guest the menu of the day, from
which (in hotels on the American plan) he orders what he chooses. The
key of the bedroom should always be left at the office when the visitor
goes out. Large hotels generally contain a barber's shop (shave 20-25 c ;
elsewhere lO-loc), railway-ticket, express, and livery offices, book-stalls,
a boot-black stand, etc. The charge for newspapers at the hotel book-stalls
is often exorbitant {e.g. 5 c. for ale. paper), but newsboys will generally
be found just outside the hotel.
The following hints may be useful to hotel-keepers who wish to meet
the tastes of European visitors. The wash-basins in the bedrooms should
be much larger than is generally the case. Two or three large towels
are preferable to half-a-dozen small ones. A carafe or jug of fresh drinking-
water (not necessarily iced) and a tumbler should always be kept in each
bedroom. If it were possible to give baths more easily and cheaply, it
would < be a great boon to English visitors. It is now, fortunately, more
usual than of yore for the price of a bedroom to include access to a
general bathroom; but those who wish a private bath attached to their
bedroom must still pay $ 1 (4«.) a day extra. 17o hotel can be considered
first-class or receive an asterisk of commendation which refuses to supply
food to travellers who are prevented from appearing at the regular meal-hours.
Boarding Houses. For a stay of more than a day or two the
visitor will sometimes find it convenient and more economical to live
at a Boarding Howe, These abound everywhere and can easily be
found on enquiry. Their rates vary from about $ 5 a week upwards.
The keepers of such houses often receive transient guests, and they
are generally preferable to Inferior hotels. — Fu/mUhed ApaHments
are easily procured in the larger cities, from $ 3-4 a week upwards.
Bestaurants. In some of the large cities the traveller will find
a few fair restaurants, but, as a rule, he will do well to take his meals
at his hotel or boarding-house. Restaurants are attached to all hotels
on the European plan (p. xix).
Soup, fish, poultry, game, and sweet dishes are often good; but
beef and mutton are sometimes inferior to those of England. Oysters,
served in a great variety of styles, are large, plentiful, and comparatively
cheap. Wine or beer is much less frequently drunk at meals than in
Europe, and the visitor is not expected to order liquor *for the good of
the house'. Iced water is the universal beverage, and a cup of tea or
coffee is included in all meals at a fixed price. Wine is generally poor
or dear, and often both. Liquors of all kinds are sold at Saloons (public
houses) and Motel Bart. Bestaurants which solicit the patronage of
VI. POST OFFICE. %x
'gents' should be avoided. The meals on dining-cars and 'buffet cars
are usually preferable to those at railway-restaurants. Tipping the waiter
is not, as a rule, necessary or even (outside of the large cities) expected,
but may be found useful where several meals are taken at the same place.
The custom, however, is by no means so firmly rooted as in Europe and
should not be encouraged. Oaf^s, in the European sense, are hardly found
in Canada, but the name is often used as the equivalent of restaurant.
VI. Post and Telegraph Offlcei.
Post OMce. The postal service of Canada is carried on by the
Dominion Government, and its regulations are essentially similar
to those of Great Britain, though the practice of delivering letters at
the houses of the addressees has not been extended to the smaller
towns or rural districts. The service is, perhaps, not quite so prompt
and accurate. The supply of letter-boxes is geaerally abundant,
but the number of fully equipped post-offloes is much lower (pro-
portionately) than in England. Stamps are sold at all hotels.
The letter rate for places within the Dominion of Canada, Newfound*
land, Mexico, or the United States is 2 c. per oz. Post-card 1 c. ; reply post*
card 2 c. A 'special delivery stamp* (10 c), affixed to a letter in addition
to the ordinary postage, entitles it to immediate delivery by special mes-
senger in a dozen or so of the larger cities, where the free delivery system
is in use. Books and other printed matter for Canada 1 c. per 2 oz.
Merchandise for Canada and the United States 1 c. per oz., samples without
value 1 c. per 2 oz. By the new Imperial Postage System letters to Great
Britain and most other parts of the British Empire cost 2 c. per 1/2 oz. (1 oz.
after Oct. Ist, 1907). Letters to other countries in the Postal Union cost 5 c.
?er Vsoz. (loz. after Oct. Ist, 190T), post-cards 2 c., books and newspapers
K. per 2 oz. Parcels to the United Kingdom 16 c. for the first lb. and
12 c. for each lb. additionU. The registration-fee is 5 c. Undeliverable
letters, originating in Canada, the United States, Mexico, or Newfoundland,
will be returned free to the sender, if a request to that effect be written
or printed on the envelope.
Domestic Money Orders (including United States) are issued by money-
order post-offices, for any amount up to $ 100. at the following rates : for
sums not exceeding $ 6, 3 c. •, $ 5-10, 6 c. ; $ 10-30, 10 c. ^ $ 30-50, 15 c. j $ 50-76,
25 c. ; $75-100, 30 c. Foreign Money Orders (including Great Britain) cost 10 c.
for each $ 10, the limit being $ 100.
In the year ending June SOth, 1905, the number of letters transmitted
by the Post Office was 301,851,500, of post-cards 29,941,000, and of all
other packages 60,463,338.
Telegraph Otftces. The telegraph business of Canada to the W.
of Quebec is mainly in the hands of the Of eat Northern Telegraph
Co. and the Canadian Pacific Railway Co., while the Maritime
Provinces are served by the Western Union Telegraph Co. of New
York. In 1904 the Dominion contained 37,481 M. of line and
180,137 M. of wire, while the number of despatches was 5,963,247.
The rates within the Dominion vary from 26 c. to $1 per 10 words,
and to the United States from 40c. per 10 words upwards. The rate
to the United Kingdom is 26c. per word. — In 1904 Canada con-
tained 214,406 M. of Telephone Wires, with about 100,000 sets of
instruments. About 300 million 'calls' are made annually. The
Bell Telephone Co. extends over Ontario, Quebec, and Manitoba, while
other companies serve the Maritime Provinces and British Columbia.
Yn. Chief Dates in Canadian History, t
1492. Columbus discovers the islands of America.
1497. Cabot discovers the mainland.
1517. Cabot visits Hudson Bay (?).
1534. Jacques Cartier enters the Bale des Ckaleurs (p. 90).
1535. Oartier ascends the 8t, Lawrence (p. 128).
1541-43. First unsuccessful attempts at settlement (p. 147).
1598. Forty convicts left hy the Marquis de la Roche as settlers
on Sable Island ; only twelve found alive after five years.
1603. First visit of Samuel de Champlain (p. 147).
1604-5. Port Royal (Annapolis) founded hy the Skw De Monta
and Baron de Poutrincourt (p. 75).
1608. Renewed visit of Champlain. Foundation of Quebec, the
first permanent settlement of Canada (p. 147).
1615. The first Christian missionaries, the RScollet Fathers, reach
Quebec.
1625. Jesuits arrive at Quebec.
1629. Quebec taken by the English (p. 147).
1632. Canada and Acadia restored to France by the Treaty of
St. Germain-en-Laye.
1642. ViUe Marie (Montreal) founded by Maisonneuve (p. 129).
1654. Acadia taken by the English.
1659. Francois Xavier de Laval, the first Canadian bishop,
arrives at Quebec.
1667. Acadia restored to France.
1670. Hudson Bay Co. founded (p. 247).
1672. Frontenac appointed Governor of Canada or New France
(white population about 6700). Served till 1682.
1682. Be Labarre, Governor.
1686. Marquis de Denonville, Governor.
1689. Frontenac re-appointed Governor.
1690. Sir Wm. Phipps, vdth a squadron from New England,
captures Port Royal but is repulsed at Quebec.
1698. Death of Frontenac (Nov. 28th).
1713. Acadia (Nova Scotia), Hudson Bay Territory, and New-
foundland given to England by the Treaty of Utrecht.
1739. Population of New France 42,700.
1745. Louisbourg taken by the New Englanders.
1748. Louisbourg restored to the French in exchange for Madras
by the Peace of Aix-la-Chapelle.
1749. Halifax founded (p. 51).
1755. Expulsion of the Acadians from Nova Scotia (p. 73).
1758. Louisbourg captured by the English for the second time.
t This list is largely based on that in the Statistical Tear-Book of
Canada, with additions by Mr. W. D. Le Sueur. r^^^^T^
Digitized by VjOOQIc
Vn. HISTORY. xxiii
1769. Fort Niagara taken by Gen, Prideaux (July 26tli). ■— Wolfe
T7ins the Battle of the Plains of Abraham and captares
Quebec (pp. 147, 164; Sept. 13-18tli).
1760. Canada (pop. 70,000) surrendered to tbe British.
1763. Formal cession of *Canada with all its dependencies' to
Great Britain, by the Treaty of Paris (Feb. 10th).
1768. Qen. Sir Guy CarUton (afterwards Lord Dorchester) ap-
pointed Governor-General.
1770. Prince Edwa/rd Island made a separate province (p. 98).
1774. Passage of the ^Quebec Act\ giving the French Canadians
the free exercise of the Roman Catholic religion and the
protection of their own civil laws and customs and provid-
ing for the administration of the criminal law as used in
England and for the appointment of a Legislative Council
by the Crown.
1776. Outbreak of the American BevoltUion and invasion of
Canada by the Americans ; capture of Montreal (p. 129)
and unsuccessful attack on Quebec (p. 147).
1776. American forces withdraw from Canada.
1783. Second Treaty of Paris and deflnitiou of the frontier be-
tween Canada and the United States. Foundation of
St. John by the Loyalists (p. 29).
The population of Canada at this time, including the Mar-
itime Provinces, was aboat 165,000. It has been estimated that
about 40,000 United Empire Loyalists — i.e. inhabitants of the
United States who remained loyal to the British Crown — mi-
grated into Canada* within a few years after the second Treaty
of Paris (comp. pp. 47, 192).
1784. New Brunswick made a separate province (p. 37).
1791. Passage of the ^Constitutional Act\ dividing Upper from
Lower Canada and providing each with a popular re-
presentative body (Legislative Assembly) in addition to
a nominated Legislative Council.
1792. First meeting of the parliaments of Upper Canada (at
Newa/rk; p. 208) and Lower Canada (at Quebec),
1793. Slavery abolished in Upper Canada.
1794. Toronto (York) is made capital of Upper Canada.
1806. Pop. of Upper Canada 70,718; of Lower Canada 250,000.
1812. War between Great Britain and the United States. Detroit
captured by the Canadians (Aug.l6th). — Battle of Queers-
ton Heights (Oct. 13th; p. 209).
1813. York (Toronto) captured and burned by the Americans
(April 27th). — Battles of Stony Creek (June 5th ; p. 211),
Moraviantown (Oct. 6th"), Chateauguay (Oct. 26th), and
Chrysler's Farm (Nov. 11th).
1814. Battle of Lundys Lane (July 25th ; p. 220). — War ended
by the Treaty of Ghent (Dec. 24th). — Pop. of Upper
Canada 95,000, of Lower Canada 335,000.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
xxiv Vn, HISTORY.
1818. London Convention, regulating the rights of Americans in
the British North American Fisheries.
1831. Phrase ^Family Compact'' comes into use to designate the
oligarchic opposition to the popnlar demand for responsible
government. — Pop. of Upper Canada 236,702; of Lower
Canada 553,134.
1836. Opening of the first railway in Canada (p. 129).
1837-38. Canadian Rebellion (Wm. Lyon Mackenzie; Paplneau;
comp. pp. 184, 192, 221).
1838. Lord Durham J appointed Governor- General and High-
Commissioner of Canada, prepares an important Report on
the Canadian situation, recommending, inter alia, a
Federal Union of all the Provinces and ihe introduction
of responsible government He returns to England (Nov.
Ist), on account of disallowance of ordinance respecting
rebel prisoners and fugitiyes.
1839. Lord Sydenham, Governor-General.
1841. Union Act (passed by British Parliament in 1840), mak-
ing one province of Upper and Lower Canada, with equal-
ity of representation, goes into effect on Feb. 10th, with
the understanding that Goyernment is to be ^responsible'
to the Provincial Legislature (comp. p. xxvl). — First joint
Parliament meets at Kingston (June 13th"). — Death of
Lord Sydenham from an accident (Sept. l9th). — Pop. of
Upper Canada 455,000 ; of Lower Canada 690,000.
1842. Sir Charles Bagot, Governor-General.
1843. Bagot (d. May 19th) succeeded by Sir Charles Metcalfe.
1844. Montreal made seat of Government.
1847. Lord Elgin, Governor-General.
1849. Riots in Montreal over t)ie passage of the Rebellion Losses
Bill; Parliament House burned. Seat of Government
transferred in consequence to Toronto,
1851 . Pop. of Upper Canada 952,004 ; of Lower Canada 890,261}
of New Brunswick 193,800/ of Nova Scotia 276,854.
1852. Seat of Government moved to Quebec, — Commencement of
the Orand Trunk Railway,
1854. Lord Elgin succeeded by Sir Edmund Head, Reciprocily
Treaty with the United States (to last ten years).
1858. Ottawa selected as the capital of Canada. — Decimal system
of currency adopted.
1860. Prince of Wales (Edward VII.) visits Canada.
1861. Viscount Monck succeeds Sir E. Head. — Pop. of Upper
Canada 1,396,091; of Lower Canada 1,111,566; of New
Brunswick 252.147; of Nova Scotia 330,857; of Prince
Edward Island 80,857.
1862-63. Troops sent out in mid-vdnter by the British Government
in connection with the ^Trenf affair.
^ le
yGoogk
Vn. HISTORY. XXV
1864. Convention at Oharlottetown, on the union of the three
Maritime Provinces, adjourned to Quebec, at the instance of
the Canadian Government, to consider the larger question
of the union of all the British North American Provinces
(Oct. 16-28th).
1865. Seat of Government transferred to Ottawa (comp. p. xxiv).
1866. Fenian invasion of Canada. Encounter at Bidgeway (Ont.).
1867. The BritUh North America Act passed by the Imperial
Parliament, effecting a union of the provinces of Canada,
Nova Scotia, and New Brunswick under the name of the
Dominion of Canada. The names of Upper and Lower
Canada are changed to Ontario and Quebec, Lord Monck
is first Governor- General of the Dominion j Sir John A,
MacdonaU (d. 1891), first Premier.
1868. North-West Territories purchased by the Dominion from
the Hudson Bay Co. fox 300,000/.
1869-70. LordlAsgar^ Governor -General. — Red River RebelUon
quelled by Col, WoUeley (see p. 246).
1870. Province of Manitoba admitted to the Confederation.
1871 . TreaJty of Washington (May 8th). — British Columbia joins
the Confederation (July 20th). — Pop. of the Dominion
3,636,000.
1872. Earl of Dufferin^ Governor-General.
1873. Prince Edward Island joins the Confederation (July Ist). —
Sir John Macdonald resigns and is succeeded by Mr.
Alexander Mackenxie (Liberal).
1876. Intercolonial Railway opened from Quebec to Halifax.
1878. Marquis of Lome, Governor -General. — The Liberal
Government defeated on the tariff, and the Conservatives,
under Sir John Macdonald^ return to power.
1879. Adoption of a protective tariff.
1881. Pop. of the Dominion 4,324,810.
1882. BoycU Society of Canada established by Marquis of Lome.
1883. Marquis of LansdownCj Governor- General.
1885. Second Biel BebeUion (p. 253). — Canadian Pacific RaU-
way across the continent completed.
1886. First through-train for the Pacific leaves Montreal on June
28th.
1888. Lord Stanley of Preston (afterwards Earl Derby), Governor-
General. — Treaty for the settlement of the Fisheries
Dispute signed at Washington (Feb. 15th), but rejected
by the U. S. Senate (Aug.).
1891. Pop. of the Dominion 4,833,239. — Death of Sir John Mac-
donald (June 6th).
1893. Earl of Aberdeen , Governor - General. — Dispute about
the Bering Sea Seal Fisheries settled by a Court of Arbi- I
tration meeting in Paris, ^^^ t
Digitized by V^OOgle
xxvi Vm. CONSTITUTION.
1896. Liberals return to power nnder Mr, Wilfrid Laurier (after-
wards Sir W, Laurier'), — Discoyery of eztensiye deposits
of gold in the Klondike District (p. 303).
1898. Earl of Minto , Govemor-General. — Canadian Government
grants preferential tariff on British goods.
1903. Alaska Boundary Treaty (see p. 296).
1904. Earl Orey, Governor-General.
1905. ProYinces of Satikatchewan and Alberta created.
Yin. The CozLBtitution of Canada.
By
the late Sir J. O, Bourinot, K,C.M,Q,, D,C,L.^ LL.D^
Olerk of the House of Gommonfl of Ouiadaf.
The Britisli Nortli America Act , which received the assent of
the Queen on the 29th of March, 1867, and came into force by royal
proclamation on the 1st of July in the same year, gave a constitu-
tional existence to the Dominion of Canada, which, at that time,
comprised only the four provinces of Ontario and Quebec — previ-
ously known as Upper and Lower Canada — and Nova Scotia and
New Brunswick, In the course of the succeeding six years, the prov-
inces of British Columbia and Prince Edward Island were added to
the Union, and a new province, under the name of Manitoba^ was
carved out of the North West Territory. This vast North West
Territory was, after the purchase of the rights of the Hudson's Bay
Company in Rupert's Land, formally transferred to the Dominion
by an Imperial order in Council (June 23rd, 1870), and the three
provinces of Manitoba (1870), Alberta (1905), and Saskatchewan
(1905) have been created out of the territory so acquired. The
remainder of the territory is divided into the provisional districts of
Keewatin, Yukony Franklin, MacKenzie^ and Ungava (comp. p. 253).
Previous to the passage of the British North America Act, all
the then existing provinces (with the exception of Manitoba —
which , as just stated , was a subsequent creation — and the old
colony of British Columbia, on the Pacific Coast) were in the pos-
session of a complete system of parliamentary government, in all
essential respects a transcript of the British system. Each province
was governed by a Lieutenant-Governor, a Legislature of two Hou-
ses, and an Executive Council, whose members continued in office
only as long as they possessed the support of the majority in the
Legislative Assembly, or popularly elected branch of the legis-
lature. They had for years possessed complete control of their
local and provincial affairs, subject only to the sovereignty of the
Imperial State. In all the provinces the criminal law and the judi-
t Events since this article was written for the original edition of the
Handbook (1894) have necessitated a few verbal and othi^r changes.
Digitized bydOOQlC
Vm. CONSTITUTION. xxvU
cial system of England preTdled. The common law of England was
also tlie basis of tlie jnrisprndence of all the piOTlnces, except Que-
bec , where a million and a quaitei of French Canadian people
•were and are still speaking the French language, professing the
Roman Catholic religion, and adhering to the Coutume de Paris and
the general principles of the civil law, as they obtained it from their
ancestors, who first settled the proYince of Canada. Accordingly,
when the terms of Union came to be arranged in 1864 by delegates
from the seyeral provinces of British North America, it was found
necessary to establish a federation bearing many analogies to that
of the United States, in order to meet the wishes of the people of
these provinces, especially of French Canada, and to preserve all
those local institutions, with which the people had long been fami-
liar, and which they could not be induced, under any circumstan-
ces, to hand over to the sole control of one central Parliament. The
resolutions of the Quebec conference were embodied in addresses
of the several Legislatures of the provinces to the Imperial Par-
liament. These resulted in the passing of the British North America
Act of 1867, now the fundamental law of the whole Dominion,
setting forth the territorial divisions , defining the nature of the
executive authority, regulating the division of powers, directing to
what authorities these powers are to be confided, and providing
generally for the administratidn and management of all those mat-
ters which fall within the respective jurisdictions of the Dominion
and the Provinces. In accordance with this constitution , Canada
has now control of the government of the vast territory stretching
from the Atlantic to the Pacific to the N. of the United States, and
is subject only to the sovereignty of the King and the Parliament
of Great Britain in such matters as naturally fall under the juris-
diction of the supreme and absolute authority of the sovereign State.
If we come to recapitulate the various constitutional authorities
which now govern the Dominion in its external and internal rela-
tions as a dependency of the Crown , we find that they may be di-
vided for general purposes as follows :
The King.
The Parliament of Great Britain.
The Judicial Committee of the Privy Council.
The Government of the Dominion.
The Governments of the Provinces.
The Courts of Canada.
While Canada can legislate practically without limitation in all
those matters which do not affect Imperial interests , yet sovereign
power, in the legal sense of the phrase, rests with the government
of Great Britain. Canada cannot of her own motion negotiate trea-
ties with a foreign State, as that is a power only to be exercised by
the sovereign authority of the Empire. In accordance, however,
with the policy pursued for many years towards self-governing
Diaitized bv*
xxvUi Vni. CONSTITUTION.
dependencies — a policy now practically among the 'conventions'
of the constitution — it is nsual for the Imperial Government to
give aU the necessary authority to distinguished Canadian statesmen
to represent the Dominion interests in any conference or negotia--
tions affecting its commercial or territorial interests. The control
over peace and war still necessarily remains under the direct and
absolute direction of the King and his great Council. The appoint-
ment of the Governor -General rests absolutely with the King's
Government. The same sovereign authority may *disallow' any Act
passed by the Parliament of Canada which may be repugnant to any
Imperial legislation on the same subject applying directly to the Do-
minion, or which may touch the relations of Great Britain with foreign
Powers , or otherwise seriously affect the interests of the Imperial
State. The Judicial Committee of the King's Privy Council is the
Court of last resort for Canada as for all other parts of the British
empire, although that jurisdiction is only exercised within certain
limitations consistent with the large measure of legal independence
granted to the Dominion. Canada is now represented on this Im-
perial Court of Appeal. As it is from the Parliament of Great Britain
that Canada has derived her constitution, so it is only through the
agency of the same sovereign authority that any amendment can be
made to that instrument
The Preamble of the British North America Act, 1867, sets forth
that the provinces are 'federally united*, with a constitution 'similar
in principle to that of the United Kingdom'. The model taken by
Canadian statesmen was almost necessarily that of the United States,
the most perfect example of federation that the world had yet seen,
though they endeavoured to avoid its weaknesses in certain essential
respects. At the same time, in addition to the general character of
the provincial organizations and distribution of powers, and other
important features of a federal system, there are the methods of gov-
ernment, which are copies, exact copies in some respects, of the
Parliamentary Government of England. We see this in the clauses of
the British North America Act referring to the executive authority,
the establishment of a Privy Council, and the constitution of the two
Houses of the Dominion Parliament. More than that , we have , in
conjunction with the legal provisions of the British North America
Act, a great body of unwritten law j that is to say, that mass of 'con-
ventions', understandings, and usages which have been long in
practical operation in England and govern the relations between the
Crown and its advisers, the position of the Ministry and its depen-
dence on the Legislature, and otherwise control and modify the
conditions of a system of English Parliamentary government.
The various authorities under which the government of the
Dominion is carried on may be defined as follows : —
1. The King, in whom is legally invested the executive author-
ity; in whose name all commissions to office run; by. whose author-
Digitized by VJOOQIC
Vni. CONSTITUTION. xxix
ity parliament is called together and dissolved; and in^vhose name
bills are assented to and reserved. He is represented for all pur-
poses of government by a Governor - General , appointed by His
Majesty in Council and holding office daring pleasnre; responsible
to the Imperial Government as an Imperial Officer; having the right
of pardon f oi' all offences, but exercising this and all executive pow-
ers under the advice and consent of a responsible ministry. The
salary of the Governor-General ($ 50,000) is paid by Canada.
2. A Ministry composed of about 13-16 members of a Privy
Council; having seats in the two Houses of Parliament; holding
office only whilst commanding a majority in the popular branch;
acting as a council of advice to the Governor-General; responsible
to parliament for all legislation and administration.
3. A Senate composed of eighty -seven members appointed by
the Crown for life, though removable by the House itself for bank-
ruptcy or crime; having co-ordinate powers of legislation with
the House of Commons, except in the case of money or tax bills,
which it can neither initiate nor amend, though it may reject them;
having no power to try impeachments ; having the same privileges,
immunities, and powers as the English House of Commons when
defined by law.
4. A House of Commons of two hundred and fourteen members
elected for five years on the very liberal systems of firanohise existent
in the several provinces (in the majority of cases, registered manhood
suffrage) ; liable to be prorogued and dissolved at any time by the
Governor-General on the advice of the Cabinet; having alone the
right to initiate nloney or tax bills ; having the same privileges,
Immunities and powers as the English House of Commons when
defined by law.
5. A Dominion Judiciary composed of a Supreme Court of a chief
justice and five puisne judges, acting as a Court of Appeal for all
the Provincial Courts; subject to have its decisions reviewed on
Appeal by the Judicial Committee of the Queen's Privy Council in
England ; its judges being irremovable except for cause, on the ad-
dress of the two Houses to the Governor-General. There is also an
Exchequer Court (with one judge), with original exclusive juris-
diction in all suits against the Crown, and also authorized to act as
a Colonial Court of Admiralty.
The several authorities of government in the Provinces may be
briefly described as follows : —
1. A Lieutenant' Governor appointed by the Governor-General
In Council, practically for five years; removable by the same author-
ity for cause ; exercising all the powers and responsibilities of the
head of an executive, under a system of parliamentary government ;
having no right to reprieve or pardon criminals.
2. An Executive Council in each province, composed of certain
heads of departments, varying from five to twelve in number ; called
XXX VIII. CONSTITUTION.
to office by the Lieutenant-Govemor; having seats in either branch
of the local legislature; holding their positions as long as they re-
tain the confidence of the majority of the people's representatives ;
responsible for and directing legislation ; conducting generally the
administration of public affairs in accordance with the law and the
conventions of the constitution.
3. A Legislature composed of two Houses — a Legislative Coun-
cil and an Assembly — in two provinces (Quebec and Nova Scotia),
and of only an Assembly or elected House in the other provinces.
The Legislative Councillors are appointed for life, by the Lieuten-
ant-Governor in Council , and are removable for the same reasons
as Senators ; cannot initiate money or tax bills, but otherwise have
all powers of legislation; cannot sit as Courts of Impeachment.
The Legislative Assemblies are elected for four years in all cases,
except in Quebec, where the term is five; liable to be dissolved at
any time by the Lieutenant-Governor, acting under the advice of
his Council; elected on manhood suffrage in Ontario, Manitoba,
British Columbia, New Brunswick, and Prince Edward Island, and
on a very liberal franchise in the other sections.
4. A Judiciary in each of the provinces, appointed by the Gov-
ernor-General in Council; removable only on the address of the
two Houses of the Dominion Parliament.
As regards the remaining territories (see p. zxvi), it is provided
by the British North America Act that the Dominion is to exer-
cise complete legislative control. The administration is entrusted
to a Commissioner, appointed by the Governor in Council ; and the
latter is also empowered to appoint an advisory Council of not more
than four members. The Commissioner in Council may also be
entrusted by the Governor in Council with certain limited legis-
lative powers. The present Commissioner is the Comptroller of the
North-West Mounted Police (p. 253). In consequence of the influx
of a large population of gold-seekers, the territory of Yukon has
been placed .under special provisions of government. A Commis-
sioner, a Council (partly elective), and judges are appointed by the
Dominion Government, under authority given by the Canadian
Parliament.
Coming now to the distribution of powers between the Dominion
and Provincial authorities, we find that they are enumerated in
sections 91, 92, 93, and 95 of the fundamental law. The 91st sec-
tion gives exclusive jurisdiction to the Parliament of the Dominion
over all matters of a general or Dominion character, and section
92 sets forth the exclusive powers of the provincial organizations.
The classes of subjects to which the exclusive authority of the Do-
minion Parliament extends are enumerated as follows in the Act: —
The public debt and property. The regulation of trade and
commerce. The raising of money by any mode or system of taxa-
tion. The borrowing of money on public credit. /HPostaljMrvice.
VIII. CONSTITUTION. xxxi
Census and statistics. Militia, military, and naval service and de-
fence. The fixing of and providing for the salaries and allowances
of oiyll and other officers of the Government of Canada. Beacons,
buoys, lighthouses, and Sable Island. Navigation and shipping.
Quarantine and the establishment and maintenance of marine hospi-
tals. Sea-coast and inland fisheries. Ferries between a province
and a British or foreign country , or between two provinces. Cur-
rency and coinage. Banking, incorporation of banks, and the issue
of paper-money. Savings-banks. Weights and measures. Bills of
exchange and promissory notes. Interest. Legal tender. Bank-
ruptcy and insolvency. Patents of invention and discovery; copy-
rights. Indians and lands reserved for the Indians. Naturalisation
and aliens. Marriage and divorce. The criminal law, except the
constitution of the Courts of Criminal jurisdiction , but including
the procedure in criminal matters. The establishment, mainte-
nance, and management of penitentiaries ; and lastly, 'such classes
of subjects as are expressly excepted in the enumeration of the
subjects assigned by the Act exclusively to the Legislature of the
provinces'.
On the other hand, the exclusive powers of the provincial legis-
latures extend to the following classes of subjects : —
The amendment from time to time , notwithstanding anything
in the Act, of the constitution of the province, except as regards
the office of Lieutenant-Governor. Direct taxation within the prov-
ince to raise revenue for provincial purposes. The borrowing of
money on the sole credit of the province. The establishment and
tenure of provincial offices and appointment and payment of pro-
vincial officers. The management and sale of the public lands
belonging to the province, and of the timber and wood thereon
(except in Alberta and Siskatchewan). The establishment, mainte-
nance, and management of public and reformatory prisons in and
for the province. The establishment, maintenance, and manage-
ment of hospitals, asylums, charities, and eleemosynary institutions
in and for the provinces other than marine hospitals. Municipal
institutions in the province. Shop, saloon , tavern, and auctioneer
and other licenses, in order to the raising of a revenue for pro-
vincial, local, or municipal purposes. Local works and undertak-
ings other than such as are of the following classes : — (a) Lines of
steam or other ships, railways, canals, telegraphs, and other works
and undertakings connecting the province with any other of the
provinces, or extending beyond the limits of the province; (b)
Lines of steamships between the province and any British or foreign
country ; (c) Such works as, though wholly situate within the prov-
ince, are before or after their execution declared by the Parlia-
ment of Canada to be for the general advantage of Canada or for
the advantage of two or more of the provinces. The incorporation
of companies with provincial objects. Solemnisation of marriage in
xxxii Vin. CONSTITUTION.
the province. Property and civil rights in the province. The ad-
ministration of justice in the province, including the constitution,
maintenance, and organization of provincial courts, both of civil
and criminal jurisdiction, and including procedure in civil matters
in those courts. The imposition of punishment by fine, penalty, or
imprisonment, for enforcing any law of the province made in rela-
tion to any matter coming within any of the classes of subjects
above enumerated. Generally all matters of a merely local or pri-
vate nature in the province.
Then, in addition to the classes of subjects enumerated in the
sections just cited, it is provided by section 93 that the Legislatures
of the provinces may exclusively legislate on the subject of educa-
tion, subject only to the power of the Dominion Parliament to make
remedial laws in case of the infringement of any legal rights en-
joyed by any minority in any province at the time of the Union (or
since acquired by Provincial legislation) — a provision intended to
protect the separate schools of the Roman Catholics and the Pro-
testants in the provinces. The Dominion and the provinces may
also concurrently make laws in relation to immigration and agri-
culture, provided that the Act of the province is not repugnant to
any Act of the Dominion Parliament; and under section 94 the
Dominion Parliament may provide for the uniformity of laws relative
to property and civil rights in Ontario, Nova Scotia, and New Brun-
swick. [There have of late arisen in the Dominion Parliament and
in the public press wide differences of opinion as to the proper
interpretation and application of the educational clauses of the British
North America Act.]
The statesmen who assembled at Quebec believed it was a de-
fect in the American constitution to have made the national govern-
ment alone one of enumerated powers and to have left to the States
all powers not expressly taken from them. For these reasons mainly
the powers of both the Dominion and the Provindal Governments
are stated, as far as practicable, in express terms, with the view of
preventing a conflict between them ; the powers that are not within
the defined jurisdiction of the Provincial Governments are reserved
in general terms to the central authority. In other words, *the re-
siduum of power is given to the central instead of to the provincial
authorities'. In the B.N. A. Act we find set forth in express words :
1. The powers vested in the Dominion Government alone.
2. The powers vested in the Provinces alone.
3. The powers exercised by the Dominion Government and the
Provinces concurrently.
4. Powers given to the Dominion Government in general terms.
The conclusion we come to after studying the operation of the
Constitutional Act, until the present time, is that while its framers
endeavoured to set forth more definitely the respective powers of
the central and local authorities than is the case vrith the Constitu-
Vm. CONSTITUTION, xxxiil
tion of the United States, it is not likely to be any more sncoessful
in preventing controversies constantly arising on points, of legislat-
ive jurisdiction. The efiPort was made in the case of the Canadian
constitntion to define more fully the limits of the authority of the
Dominion and its political parts ; but while great care was evidejitly
taken to prevent the dangerous assertion of provinciftl rights , it is
clear that it has the imperfection? of all statutes, when it is attempted
to meet all emergencies. Happily, however, by means of the Courts
in Canada, and the tribunal of last resort in England, and the calm
deliberation which the parliament is now learning, to give to all
questions of dubious jurisdiction, the principles on which the federal ,
system should be worked are, year by year, better understood, and
the dangers of conflict lessened.
The perpetuation of the Canadian constitution and th^ harmony
of the members of the Confederation rest in a large measure on the
Judiciary of Canada , just as the constitution of the United States ;
awes much of its strength to the legal acumen and sagacity of a great
constitutional lawyer like Chief Justice Marshall , and of the able
men who have, as a rule, composed the Federal Judiciary. The in-
stinct of self-preservation and the necessity of national union must
in critical times prevail over purely sectional considerations^ even
under a federal system, as the experience of the United States has
conclusively shown us; but, as, a general principle, the success of ■
confederation must rest on a spirit of compromise, and in the. realdi-
ness of the people to accept the decisions of the Courts as final and
conclusive on every constitutional issue of importance.
1%, OeograpMcal and ecological Bketcli,
with notes on Minerals, Climate, .Immigra1;ion, and Native^ Races,
by the late George Jlf. Dawson^ C.M.O.^ LL.D., FMM.y,
Director of the Geological Survey of Canada. t -
The name of Canada was first applied by Jacques Cartier, the dis*
coverer of the St. Lawrence , to a limited tract of country in the
vicinity of the Indian village of Stadacona, now the city' of Quebec.
It is a name of native origin and of disputed meaning, but is'
generally believed to have merely denoted a collection of houses — -
a village. At a later date, it was employed to designate all the early
settlements of France along the valley of the lower St. Lawrence,'
and still later it became that of a great tract of country including
what now forms the provinces of Quebec and Ontario, previously
■ known as Lower and Upper Canada respectively. When to Canada,
thus constituted, the Maritime Provinces were politically united in
1867, the name became a general one, and it was subsequently still'
f Some alierations have been made in this sketch by Dr. H. M, Ami
and Mr, James WMU, in order to bring it up to date. ^ t
Baedekeb's Canada." 3rd Edit. Digitized by V^OOglC
xxxiv IX. GEOGRAPHIOAIi AND
further extended, with the growth of the Dominion, so as to embrace
the whole of the North- West Territories and British Columbia.
Thus, at the present time, the Dominion of Canada includes all
parts of British North America excepting the island of Newfound-
land, with its dependency of Labrador, which still remains a
separate colony.
The above is a matter of nomenclature, but in following the
history of the occupation and growth of the country, it will be found
that the extension of the old name, first applied to the vicinity of
Quebec, was governed by the ruling physical features of the N. part
of the American continent. Thus the existence of the River St.
Lawrence, with that of its great estuary and the gulf, naturally
resulted in the individuality of the Dominion of Canada, by afford-
ing a highway of exploration and trade which extended into the very
heart of the continent and along which explorers and traders had
already penetrated very far, before the knowledge of the settlers of
New England had extended much beyond the Appalachian Moun-
tain ranges.
Geographically, Canada and the Island of Newfoundland may be
considered together, the area of the whole of British North America
being, according to the latest computations, about 3,730,000 sq. M.
This is somewhat greater than that of the United States with Alaska,
and slightly less than that of Europe.
Though more complicated than the United States in its physio-
graphy and particularly in the outlines of its coast, Canada is sim-
pler in this respect than Europe. The same or very similar types of
geological structure, with their accompanying and dependent fea-
tures of surface form, are very widely extended. Great distances
may be traversed without any notable change of conditions, and no
examination of a single province suffices to give an idea of the
whole.
For the purposes of the present very brief and general descrip-
tion, Canada may be treated of under three main divisions or regions,
naturally contrasted not only in their present appearance but in
respect also to their geological history. These are (1) an Eastern
Region,- (2) a Central Region^ and (3) a Western Region,
The Eastern Kegion may be defined as extending from the
Atlantic coast to Lake Superior, and is farther bounded to the W.
by a chain of great lakes which extends from the vicinity of the
W. end of Lake Superior to the Arctic Ocean near the mouth of
the Mackenzie River. This is characterized by a diversified surface,
which is scarcely ever really mountainous, and was originally a-
great forest land, save in the extreme N., where the rigour of the
climate prevents arboreal growth. — The Central Division lies
between the W. boundary of the last and the E. base of the Rocky.
Mountain region. It is a great interior continental plain, which runs
northward, with narrowing dimensions, to beyond theArctia circle.
Digitized by VjOO
aEOLOGIOAL SKETCH. xxxv
Its S. part consists of open prairies, its N. of woodland. — The
WeBtem Division is the Cordilleraii belt, the wide monntalnous
border of the continent on the Pacific side, with yery yaried and
very bold topography.
These divisions, based alone on physiographical conditions , are
very unequal in size, the eastern being much the largest and con-
stituting in fact more than one-half of the whole area. It includes,
in its S. parts, all the older and thickly settled provinces of the Do-
minion, and requires, therefore, to be further subdivided and spoken
of in somewhat greater detail.
The Eastern Region of Canada , as above defined , is composed
almost entirely of very ancient rocks belonging to the Archasan and
Palaeozoic divisions of geologists. Throughout the later geological
ages, these rocks, fully consolidated and set, have remained exempt
from important disturbance or folding ; but have been subjected to
yery prolonged processes of waste and wear, so that the surface fea-
tures and relief of the whole region, as now seen, are the resultant
of such denudation. The harder and more resistant rocks form the
higher points. Beginning in the Labrador peninsula, running round
to the S. of Hudson Bay and thence N.W. to the Arctic Ocean, is a
broad belt of crystalline rocks of great antiquity, which may be re-
garded as constituting the nucleus (or protaxis) of the N. American
continent, and forming the ruling feature of all this E. division of
Canada. Its surface, as it exists at present, forms a vast Irregular
and hummocky plateau which seldom exceeds 1500 ft. in elevation.
Except in the valleys of its S. parts and in the great alluvial
deposits of the James Bay Basin, it offers little attraction to the
agriculturalist, as the greater part of its extent is but scantily and
irregularly furnished with an indifferent sandy soil. It is pre-emi-
nently characterized by its immense number of lakes, large and
small, and by its irregular and winding rivers with numerous rapids
and falls. By these waterways it may be traversed in light canoes
in almost any direction. From the upper Ottawa, Gatineau, Lifevroj
and St. Maurice Rivers, rising within its area, a great part of the
important timber product of Canada is brought.
The Appalachian Mountain system, which gives form to the E.
coast of the United States, is continued with reduced height through
the Maritime or Acadian provinces of Canada and an adjacent portion
of the province of Quebec to the S. of the St. Lawrence. The highest
ridges of this system in Canada are the Shickshock Mountains, which
border the lower estuary of the St. Lawrence and terminate in the
promontory of Gasptf. Ridges of hard and often crystalline rocks
belonging to the same system of elevation traverse New Brunswick ;
while Nova Scotia may be regarded as a parallel elevation of iden-
tical character.
Nova Scotia is connected with the mainland by a neok of low
land. A part of its shores upon the Bay of Fundy, together with
xxxvi i;X. GEOGRAPHICAL AND
Prince Edward Island , in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, are composed
of rocks newer tlian those generally characteristic of the E. division
of Canada. These are referable to the Permian and Triassic ages of
geologists, and in the Annapolis valley as well as in Prince Edward
Island support some of the most fertile farming-regions of the Acadian
provinces. The surface of the Acadian provinces, though varied and
uneven, is nowhere high. The most elevated ridges in Nova Scotia
seldom exceed 1000 feet, while Prince Edward Island is everywhere
low. The most striking feature of the Acadian provinces is their
irregular and deeply indented coast-line — particularly marked in
Nova Scotia — resulting in the importance of the fishing and
maritime industries generally in these provinces.
Newfoundland , in its geological structure and topography, is
entitled to he classed as a terminal portion of the Appalachian
system or range, but by reason of its N. situation is less fertile than
the Acadian provinces of Canada , while its fisheries are relatively
more important.
The great valley of the St. Lawrence lies between the ridge-like
elevations of the Appalachian system on one side and the base of
the above described Laurentian plateau on the other. The prov-
inces of Quebec and Ontario bordering upon it are thus especially
attached to the hydrographic basin of the St. Lawrence, though a
small portion of this basin is included within the limits of the
United States.
Above the city of Quebec, the base of the Laurentian highlands
and the ridges of the Appalachian system diverge , and the river
flows through an extensive low country — the St. Lawrence plain
— of which the greater width lies on the S.E. side of the river.
This plain extends to Kinggton (p. 227), near the outlet of Lake
Ontario, and to Ottawa (p. 176), on the river of the same name, and
in all comprises an area considerably exceeding 10,000 sq. M. It is
based on horizontal beds of Ordovician rocks, generally limestones,
and is a region of notable fertility, which for many years after the
first settlement of Canada constituted its great granary. At Mont-
real, and here and there in the plain to the S. and E., conspicuous
^nd rather abrupt elevations of small extent (the so-called 'Monte-
regian Hills') occur, which represent the basal remnants of volcanic
vents of great antiquity breaking through the flat-lying rocks.
Near the outlet of Lake Ontario, a narrow neck of the Laurentian
country, constituting the Trontenac Axis', crosses the St. Lawrence,
forming there the picturesque Thousand Islands (p. 228). Beyond
this point, and to the S. of a line drawn from it to the N. part of
Georgian Bay on Lake Huron, ^ lies the most fertile and densely
populated portion of the province of Ontario, forming a great penin-
sula and bounded to the S. and W. by lakes Ontario, Erie, and
Huron, with their connecting waters. This may again be described
in general terms as an extensive plain, for its eleyationa, though
Digitized by VjOOQIC
GEOLOGICAL SKETCH. xxxvii
higher than any of those met with in the lower St. Lawrence plain
proper, never exceed 1800 ft. above the sea-level and are nowhere
abrapt. Its area is approximately 26,000 sq. M. Its soil is almost
everywhere fertile, and in its S. part the climate admits of the
successful culture on a large scale of grapes, peaches, maize, and
other crops requiring a long summer season with considerable
warmth. Like the St. Lawrence plain it is based on flat or gently
inclined rocks of the PalaBOzoic age, including strata from the
Ordovician to the Devonian period, besides glacial and other ^ drift'
of the Pleistocene age.
The Great Lakes , forming the perennial reservoirs of the St.
Lawrence, and constituting one of the most remarkable geographical
features of North America, have an aggregate area somewhat exceed-
ing that of Great Britain, or 94,750 sq. M. They stand at four dis-
tinct levels above the sea, as follows: — Ontario 246 ft., Erie
572 ft., Huron and Michigan 501 ft. , Superior 602 ft. Of the differ-
ence in height between lakes Erie and Ontario, 167 ft. is accounted
for by the falls of Niagara. The mode of formation of these vast
fresh-water basins has been the subject of much discussion and
difference of opinion, but in all probability they have been gradu-
ally excavated by the denuding action of an ancient system of
rivers, which, at a time when the continent stood higher than it now
does, have formed extensive valleys by the gradual removal of
the surface of their dr&inage-basins. Subsequent changes of level,
together with the irregular deposition of superficial materials during
the Glacial Period, which have not acted uniformly on different
parts of the surface, have resulted in the flooding of these old
basins. That extensive changes of level have occurred, is evidenced
by the fact that the beds of some of the lakes are now considerably
below the present sea -level. The honeycombed rocks constantly
brought up by fishing nets from the bottom of (€,g,) Lake Huron
also go to prove that the dissolving or gradual decomposition of the
rock-materials has been a powerful factor in forming lake-basins.
Beginning with the ancient nucleus of the Laurentian plateau,
It will be observed that newer formations of Palseozoic age accu-
mulated about its margins. At a later date these were ridged up and
folded on the line of the Appalachians , while parts of them, now
forming the plain of the St. Lawrence valley, remained compar-
atively undisturbed. Long after these events, and when the whole
E. division of Canada already constituted a stable dry land, a great
inland sea extended through the centre of the contin^t from the
Gulf of Mexico to the Arctic Ocean. It is unnecessary to endeavour
to follow the whole history of this sea , of which the earlier stages
are yet imperfectly known ; but in the Cretaceous period, at approx-
imately the time when the chalk-formations of Europe were being
laid down, great horizontal beds of sediment were being deposited
in this central region. At the close of this period , ttre^deposits
xxxvUi IX. GEOaRAPHICAL AND
ceased to be marine , and wide shallow lakes and estnarieg were
formed in whicli beds differing somewhat in character were pro-
duced. Together, these beds, scarcely disturbed from their original
horizontal position, but more or less indurated, form the floor of the
great inland plain which has been referred to as the Central Division
of Canada. To some extent the original deposits have been cut away
by rains and rivers, and in the latest geological period they have
been very generally strewn with superficial materials due to the
glacial epoch. Because of the still nearly horizontal position of these
beds and their small degree of induration, the interior region of the
continent is especially characterized by uniformity and want of
salient relief.
Along the S. boundary of this part of Canada, the inland plain
has a width from E. to W. of nearly 800 M. Frbm the Red River
and Winnipeg Lake, near its E. border, it may be described in the
main as rising gradually toward the base of the Rocky Mountains,
from a height of a few hundred feet above the sea-level to elevations
of 3000-4000 ft. Plateaus or ridges, which reach some height, here
and there locally diversify its surface, and of these, that bordering
Manitoba and Winnipegosis Lakes is the most notable. It is further
rather markedly divided by lines of escarpment, or sudden rise, into
three Steppes or ^Prairie Levels^ differing somewhat in character;
but in the main it is a nearly uniform plain, cut through by the
deep valleys of several rivers and their many tributaries which flow
down its long and light slope to the lakes at its E. edge. This
description applies chiefly to the S. part of the inland plain of
Canada. Farther to the N. it is generally lower, and is drained
almost exclusively by the Great Mackenzie River, which debouches
on the Arctic Sea.
A line extended from the S. end of Lake Winnipeg to Edmon-
ton (p. 264) on the North Saskatchewan, and thence in a S. direc-
tion to the base of the Rooky Mountains, approximately defines the
N. limit of the open prairie country. The borders of the prairie and
woodland are very intricate in detail and even where the plains
themselves are entirely treeless, belts of timber are usually found
in the deep valleys of the larger streams. But to the N. of this line
the surface is generally wooded, and prairie areas are comparatively
small and exceptional. The soil, as might be anticipated from the
geological conditions, is almost everywhere exceedingly fertile, but
the natural prairie land offers much greater inducements to the
agriculturist than does the forested area. The primary cause of
the absence of trees from a large part of the interior continental
plain, is undoubtedly the scanty rainfall of its W. and central tracts ;
but the prairie has been extended by recurring fires far beyond the
limits thus imposed. This has been the case particularly in the
Canadian portion of this plain. To the S. of the International bound-
ary, most of the region between the 100th Meridian and the Rooky
Digitized bydOOQlC
GEOLOGICAL SKETCH. xiilIx
Mountains is too arid for ordinary agriculture, but to the N. of that
line the arid region is found in a modified form and constitutes
hut a narrow strip, while that of sufficient rainfall runs completely
round it to the N. , forming a continuously fertile region from Mani-
toba to the Rocky Mountains. Irrigation is being carried on success-
fully in the semi-arid part of the Canadian plain, and will, it it
hoped, ultimately diyest it of its present treeless character.
The third of the divisions under which a broad sketch of the
physiographical features of Canada is here attempted, is naturally a
very well-defined one, embracing the wide belt of generally mount-
ainous country that separates the central plain of the Continent
from the Pacific Coast. In approaching the W. margin of the region
of plain and prairie , the rugged outline of the Rocky Mountains
gradually rises above the horizon. Towards the base of these mount'
ains the heretofore flat-lying strata. of the plain are affected by a
series of parallel folds giving rise to a corresponding system of ridges
and subordinate elevations known as the ^ Foot- Hills' ; but the width
of this intermediate region is seldom more than about 20 M. The
main range of the Rocky Mountains proper, though not perfectly
continuous, runs in a nearly direct line from the S. boundary of
Canada to the Arctic Ocean, which it reaches, though in a reduced
form, a little to the W. of the mouth of the Mackenzie. This range
forms the E. border of the great Cordilleran belt, which has an aver-
age width in Canada of about 400 M. and is a region of folding and
upturning of rocks on a gigantic scale. The periods at which these
disturbances of the earth's crust have occurred are comparatively
recent in geological history, the Cordilleran mountains which have
resulted from them standing in much the same relation, in respect
to the older Appalachian Mountains and the still older Laurentian
highlands of the E. , as do the Alps in Europe to the mountains of
Wales and the Archaan ranges of Scandinavia respectively. Because
of their comparative newness and the relatively small time to which
they have been subjected to natural processes of waste and wear,
the mountains are here bold and high and the scenery in general
truly Alpine in character.
The whole S. part of the Canadian Cordillera, as far N. as the
60th parallel, is politically included in the province of British
Columbia, while its N. portion is in Yukon Territory and in the
W. half of the North- West Territories of Canada. The intricacies
of its component mountain systems have as yet been imperfectly
ascertained and but a portion of the whole has been subjected to
survey, but its ruling features are nevertheless well known. The
Rocky Mountains proper on its E. side, and the Coast Ranges, which
border the Pacific, may be regarded as its most important because
its most continuous elements. Between these bordering ranges lie
less continuous, but in the main nearly parallel systems of mount-
ains, which in some places are closely crowded together, while in
^oogle
xl IX. aEOGRAPHIOAL AND
others they separate in such a manner as to admit considerable areas
of plateau land or low country. Of such areas the Interior Plateau
of British Golumhia is the most important and best known. This
has a width of about 100 M., with a length ffirom the vicinity of
the 49th parallel to about 55® 30') of nearly 500 M. Its mean eleva-
tion is about 3500 ft., but it is by no means uniform in this respect,
and can indeed only be described as a plateau by contrast with the
more elevated mountain tracts which bound it. Omitting from con-
sideration other minor areas of plateau or low country, we find, far
to the N., another extensive and relatively low country about the
headwaters of the Yukon, in which isolated ranges of mountains of
moderate height appear irregularly.
The Pacific coast of the Gordilleran region , included in British
Columbia and in part of Alaska , is remarkably intricate, recalling
in its outlines the well-known coast of Norway. It is dissected by
long and very deep and sinuous fjords which penetrate far into the
Coast Ranges , while innumerable islands lie off it. Resulting from
the last-mentioned circumstance is the fact that an almost continu-
ously sheltered line of navigation exists from the S. end of Van-
couver Island to Cross Sound in Alaska, a distance of over 800 M.
This route, along the shores of British Columbia and Alaska, is that
generally followed by the coasting steamers (see R. 68), and it
abounds in fine scenery, though the most striking landscapes —
those existing far up the several fjords — are seldom seen by the
ordinary traveller or tourist. Beyond the main line of the coast and
its immediate fringe of islands, Vancouver Island and the Queen
Charlotte Islands may be regarded as constituting the unsubmerged
and outstanding portions of an outer mountain range.
The drainage system of the Gordilleran belt is remarkably com-
plicated. Near the S. boundary of Canada , a narrow portion of its
E. part is tributary to branches of the Saskatchewan River. Farther
to the N., the width of that portion which drains to the E. increases,
till the Peace, Liard, and Peel Rivers are found to draw much of their
waters from country lying to the W. of the Rocky Mountains proper
and to cut completely through this range. Beyond the 60th degree
of latitude, the Gordilleran region declines gradually to the N.W.
and is drained in that direction by branches of the Yukon , which
eventually unite, and the resulting river, turning to the W., traverses
the whole breadth of Alaska and discharges into Bering Sea. The
Fraser River, with a total length of about 600 M., is the most
important of those of the S. part of the Canadian mountain region.
All th^se streams follow very sinuous and indirect courses , and
they are generally swift, broken by numerous falls and rapids, and
in consequence unsuited for continuous navigation.
The line of the Canadian Pacific Railway is practically the only
one by which the Gordilleran region of Canada is crossed by the or-
dinary traveller, and the S. part of the province of British Columbia
Diaitized bv*
GEOLOGICAL SKETCH. xli
which is thns traversed, is its best known part. It may thus assist
in forming a conception of the features of this region, which is so
interesting from many points of view , briefly to note in their order
the main features there found : —
The Rocky Mountains proper have in this part of their length
a width of about 60 M. They are chiefly composed of Palaeozoic
rocks, among which limestones largely preponderate, and they justify
the name by the abundance of bare, bold peaks, many of which ex-
ceed 10,000 ft. in height. But as the vaUeys and passes by which
the range is traversed stand at levels of from 4000 to over 5000 ft. ,
the actual height of these mountains does not appeal to the eye so
forcibly as that of some lower ranges which rise from the level of
the sea.
After descending to the great valley through which the upper
waters of the Columbia and its tributary the Kootenay flow in op-
posite directions, the Selkirk Range is crossed. The valleys are
here narrower, and the mountains, rising close at hand, are remark-
ably picturesque and truly Alpine in character. The highest known
summits in this range somewhat exceed 10,000 ft. A descent is
then again made to the Columbia in a lower part of its course, after
which the Gold Range, a less elevated and less picturesque mountain
system, is crossed. This and the Selkirk range are notable examples
of the discontinuous mountain systems already alluded to which lie
between the main bordering ranges of the Cordillera.
From the W. flanks of the Gold Range, after passing the Shuswap
Lakes — which may be taken as typical of many important lakes
of the Cordillera — the Interior Plateau of British Columbia is tra-
versed. The wide valleys which here characterize this plateau are
often very fertile, though irrigation (depending on the streams which
are copiously supplied by the drainage of the higher levels) is gener-
ally necessary to ensure successful agriculture. The barrier formed
by the Coast Ranges, which interrupt the W. moisture-bearing winds,
accounts for the comparative aridity of much of this region, as well
as for its wide tracts of treeless country spread along the slopes of
the valleys and over some of the higher parts of the plateau where
cattle and horses find abundant and nutritious pasture.
Leaving the plateau country, the line of railway next traverses
the Coast Ranges by following the Fraser River, which in a series of
cafions and gorges has cut its way to the Pacific. Many summits in
this bordering system of mountains attain 7000 or 8000 ft. above
the sea, while some reach a height of 9000 ft.
Mineral Wealth. Closely connected with the geological structure
of the country is the occurrence of mineral substances of economic
value, and next to its physical features (also dependent on its geo-
logical constitution), the distribution of such minerals is one of the
ruling factors in regard to the determinations of centres of popula-
xlil IX. aEOGRAPHICAL AND
tion. It is here only possible to mention a few of the more import-
ant facts in connection with the mineral resources of Canada t.
Coal , of the age of the Coal Measures or Carboniferous system
of Europe, is found and extensively mined in Nova Scotia, particu-
larly in the vicinity of Springhill, near Pictou, and in Cape Breton.
The output in 1905 amounted to 5,646,583 tons. In New Brunswick
and in Newfoundland , coal of the same character , but so far as
known in much less quantity, is again found.
In the Provinces of Quebec and Ontario coal is wanting, but in
the Ontario Peninsula Petroleum is obtained from bored wells in
considerable quantity, and Natural Oas has lately been found in
abundance in certain places. These combustible materials are de-
rived from rocks of Devonian, Silurian, and Ordovician age, older
than the Carboniferous system.
Beds of Lignite or Brown Coal, resembling that of Germany and
Bohemia, underlie vast tracts of the great interior plain of Canada,
where, because of their undisturbed condition, they are often very
easily worked. On approaching the base of the Rocky Mountains,
these fuels, in consequence of greater alteration, gradually change
into true bituminous coals, which are abundant in the foot-hill
region; while in certain isolated basins in the Rooky Mountains
they have been still further changed into true anthracite. All these
fuels may be classed as of Cretaceous age.
In British Columbia, excellent bituminous coals of the same age
are worked on Vancouver Island (output in 1905, 1,945,452 tons).
Fuels of the same kind occur in the Queen Charlotte Islands, where
anthracite is also found, but these have not as yet been utilized. In
the inland portions of this province, both bituminous coals and lig-
nites (the latter of Tertiary age) are represented. The Crow's Nest
Pass Branch of the Canadian Paciflo Railway (p. 266) traverses one
of these inland coal basins, which supplies the smelters of Kootenay
(B.C.), Montana, and Idaho with excellent coke. — The N.W.
Territories, Yukon, Alberta, and Saskatchewan yielded 786,617 tons
of coal in 1904. Petroleum and natural gas fields also occur in
Alberta.
It will be observed that both coasts of Canada are well supplied
with coal, where it offers itself readily to commercial purposes and
facilitates communication by sea. The whole coal- and lignite-bear-
ing area of Canada which has already been approximately defined
has been estimated at about 97,000 sq. M.
Iron Ores are found in abundance and of many difi'erent kinds.
They are worked to a limited extent in Newfoundland, Nova Scotia,
Quebec, Ontario, and British Columbia. Ores of Copper and Lead
are also widely distributed. Qold, in the form of auriferous quartz
veins, is worked to a considerable extent in Nova Scotia, and al-
t For details, see reports of the Geological Survey of Canada^ Ottawa.
Digitized by VjOOQiC
GEOLOGICAL SKETCH. xlili
luvlal deposits occur In Quebec. In the W. part of Ontario, parti-
cularly in the vicinity of the Lake of the Woods and Rainy Lake,
several mines are already in operation and many others are in course
of development. In British Columbia alluvial or 'placer^ mining has
long been carried on, and of late years both free milling and smelt-
ing ores containing gold have assumed a great and increasing im-
portance. Several of the rivers to the E. of the Rocky Mountains,
in Alberta and Saskatchev^an, yield stream gold in remunerative
quantities. The most striking recent development, however, is that
of the Klondike region, which since 1897 has attracted so much at-
tention to Yukon Territory. The alluvial deposits here have proved
exceptionally rich, and the existence of valuable gold-bearing lodes
is confidently anticipated. Silver, in greater or less quantity, is usu-
ally associated with the ores of lead. Mines in the vicinity of Thun-
der Bay, on Lake Superior, have produced a considerable amount of
silver; and the recently opened silver mines of the Kootenay district
of British Columbia are important. The still more recent discoveries
in the Cobalt district, Ontario (p. 238), where large masses of native
silver are associated with cobalt, nickel, and arsenic, are attracting
attention. Other discoveries in the country to the N., and the
opening (at an early date) of this area by the construction of the
Grand Trunk Pacific Railway, indicate this as one of the most prom-
ising mining regions of Canada.
Without endeavouring to enumerate the many mineral products
of minor importance, the follovdng, which have already attracted
considerable attention commercially, and which in some instances
occur in Canada under peculiar conditions, may be specially aUuded
to ; — Nickel, Large deposits of nickeliferous pyrrhotite are worked
in the Sudbury district, to the N. of Lake Huron. — Asbestos, Ex-
tensively worked in the .townships of Thetford, Coleraine, and Dan-
ville, Quebec. — Mica, Worked particularly in the County of Ottawa
and its vicinity, to the N. of the river of the same name, in the
Province of Quebec. — Apatite (Phosphate) occurs in the Ottawa
Valley, but the cost of extraction renders it at present unprofitable
to work. — Plumbago or Graphite. Widely distributed; but the
most important known deposits are those found in the region last
referred to and in the same rocks of the Laurentian system. —
Corundum^ the Emery of commerce, and ranking next to the
diamond in the scale of hardness, occurs in considerable quantity
in E. Ontario. — Salt. Obtained from bored weUs, in the form of
brine, in the W. part of the Ontario peninsula. — Oypsum, Occurring
in great abundance in Nova Scotia and New Brunswick, and also in
parts of the Ontario peninsula. It is worked in all three provinces.
— Platinum. Found in alluvial deposits in association with gold
in certain districts in British Columbia. The quantity so far obtained
amounts to only a few thousand ounces annually, but it is greater than
that produced elsewhere on the continent.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
xliv IX. GEOGRAPHICAL AND
Structural materials, including Building Stones of all kinds,
Slate^ Clay suitable for brick-making, etc, are abundant, and their
production annually represents an important part of the total mineral
product of the country. It is not possible here even to designate
the many varieties met with, the purposes to which they are applied,
or the particular localities from which they come. Marbles, serpent-
ines, granites, and other crystalline rocks afford many ornamental
stones suitable for architectural uses.
The total value of the mineral products of Canada in 1906
amounted to $ 68,674,700 (13,714,940^.)-
Climate. The climate of Canada as a whole is of the 'Conti-
nental* type, with strongly contrasted temperatures between the
summer and winter months; the only notable exception to this
being found in a comparatively narrow strip along the Pacific coast,
to the W. of the Coast Ranges of British Columbia. That part of
Canada which has already been referred to for convenience as the
E. division or region, is everywhere characterized by hot summers,
with cold winters, during which snow lies upon the ground continu-
ously for several months and most of the rivers and lakes are ice-
bound. St. John's (Newfoundland), Halifax (Nova Scotia), and St.
John (New Brunswick) are the principal ports on the Atlantic side
which remain open to commerce throughout the year. The rainfall
of all this region is seasonable and ample from the point of view of
agriculture. The moisture-bearing winds come chiefly from the S.E.,
while both in summer and winter, dry winds from the N.W. are
characteristic.
The central region, being farthest from the influence of any sea,
presents the greatest range of temperature as between the summer
and winter months, the difference between the means of these sea-
sons often amounting to about 70° Fahr. As already stated , the
rainfall is here comparatively light, particularly in the S. portion
of the great plain. To this central region , the greater part of the
Cordilleran belt may, in respect to climate, be attached; for though
not far distant from the Pacific, the humid winds arriving from that
ocean are effectively barred out or deprived of their moisture by the
continuous elevations of the Coast Range. In the Cordilleran country,
however, the bold topographical features cause the climate to vary
much as between places not far removed and the conditions do not
thus possess the uniformity of those of the great plains, and in the
lower valleys the summer is longer and much less severe than is
the case on the plains.
The territory which borders on the Pacific has, as already indi-
cated, an oceanic climate with small tange in temperature and very
copious precipitation, particularly in the autumn and winter months.
At Victoria, situated on the S. end of Vancouver Island, the climate
much resembles that of the S. of England. Snow seldom lies upon
the ground for more than a few days in winter, while in some sea-
Digitized by VjOOQIC
GEOLOGICAL SKETCH. xlv
sons hardy plants continue to bloom throughout the winter, and the
thermometer has scarcely ever been known to touch zero of Fahrenheit.
What has been said above of the climate of Canada refers to the
S. and inhabited part of the great area of the Dominion. Far to the
N., Arctic conditions prevail — a rigorous winter of extreme length
with a short but warm summer.
A noteworthy difference exists between the E. and W. parts of
Canada in corresponding latitudes. Places on the E. or Atlantic
coast have much lower mean temperatures than those found in the
same degree of latitude in Europe ; while on the Pacific coast, the
conditions are more nearly like those of Europe and again very dif-
ferent from those of the Atlantic coast. The causes of these differ-
ences are rather complicated. They depend in part on the direction
of the prevailing winds, in part on the circumstance that while the
E. coast of North America is chilled by a cold Arctic current, the
temperature of the W. sea is maintained above the normal by a
warm current, flowing past Japan and making the circuit of the
North Pacific. The result of these combined conditions is, however,
important, for while in the E. the agriculturally valuable part of
the country is somewhat strictly limited to the N., it becomes ex-
tremely wide in the W. ; rendering it pretty evident to the specu-
lative geographer, that when the country shall have become fully
peopled in accordance with its natural capabilities, the greater part
of its population will lie to the "W. of its central line. In this re-
spect Canada differs from the United States , in which the natural
conditions seem to imply that the balance of population will con-
tinue to be in favour of that part of the continent to the E. of its
central line.
From the description given above , it will be obvious that Ca-
nada is separable, by physical and climatjc conditions, into regions
which run approximately N. and S., with the general trend of the
North American continent. The line of division between Canada
and the United States is a somewhat arbitrary one , and each of
the natural divisions is continued to the S. by a region more or less
resembling it. The course of trade, or the exchange of products,
thus takes an E. or "W. direction, and the means of communication
once provided, the diversity of conditions forms in itself the strong-
est material bond of union between unlike parts. One of the chief
factors in tempering the climate of the fertile prairie of the interior
is the fact that Hudson Bay, a vast body of salt water, 667,000 sq. M.
in area, does not freeze over in winter.
Immigration. Canada has as yet only begun to realize the possi-
bilities of her position and her abundant natural resources. Before
the completion of the Canadian Pacific Railway, the great plains of
the West and the province of British Columbia were exceedingly
remote from the older and more thickly peopled provinces of the
East. They were reached with difficulty, and the means of tians-
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
xM IX. GEOGRAPHICAL AND
porting the products of tlie interior to the markets of the world were
primitive or absent. The great area of prairie land, so eminently
adapted to the growth of grain and the sustenance of domestic ani-
mals, necessarily lay fallow; while, with the exception of gold ob-
tained from the superficial deposits and beds of streams and coal
adjacent to the coast, the mineral wealth of British Columbia re-
mained unknown or unworked. All this is now in process of change.
The vast fertile area of the interior of the continent is being more
and more opened up by new railways (comp., especially, pp. 262,
307) and is being peopled by immigrants from Europe, from the E.
provinces of Canada itself, and from the United States, the Govern-
ment and the railway companies offering every inducement to the
intending settler t. The export of wheat, cattle, and other agricul-
tural products from Manitoba, Alberta, and Saskatchewan is already
large and is yearly growing in importance, and before many years,
the last region of North America where ftee grants of land suitable
for the growth of wheat can be obtained, will be owned and oc-
cupied throughout. In the broken country of British Columbia, the
'prospector' pursues his search for ores even in the farthest recesses
of the mountains, and in the vicinity of the railway numerous
mining-enterprises have been already established.
To the immigrant unskilled in mining or other special pursuits,
but not afraid of hard work, the farming and 'ranching* lands of the
Western Provinces are the most attractive. It cannot be denied that
many difficulties have to. be faced by a newcomer, particularly if
ignorant of the methods of farming usually practised in Canada; but
the rapidly rising tide of immigration from the British Isles and the
United States proves that the value of the *wheat lands' of the
Canadian West has been recognised. By those accustomed to agricul-
ture and with a certain amount of capital, lands already under cul-
tivation may often be purchased in the E. provinces of the Domi-
nion at moderate rates, and the difficulties of a first establishment
on new land thus obviated.
Native Baces. The native races of North America are generally
referred to as Indians j a misnomer of early date which it is now-
impossible to eradicate. These people had, before the date of the
discovery of the New World by civilized man, penetrated to and
occupied every part of the continent; but where the natural resources
available to them were small, the population remained exceedingly
scanty, and a few families often required a vast tract of country for
their support by the rude methods of hunting and fishing which, as
a rule, were alone known to them. Within the limits of Canada no
architectural monuments are met with resembling those remaining
in Mexico, Central America, and Peru , as the result of the labour
f Canada is now obtaining about 60 per cent of the immigration froni
Great Britain to North America, as compared with 12-15>per cent a few
years ago. Digitized by LjOOQIC
GEOLOGICAL SKETCH. xlvii
of the half-civilized races of these regions. A few burial mounds,
an occasional suryiving outline of some fortified work , with graves
and scattered implements of stone or hone, constitute the traces of
all former generations of the aborigines. In parts of the provinces
of Ontario and Quebec, some rude agriculture was attempted by
the natives even in prehistoric times, while on the W.- coast sub-
stantial wooden lodges were buHt and a rudimentary form of art was
manifested in the design of tools and implements and in carvings
in wood. Elsewhere the inhabitants were little removed from the
plane of savagery. The conditions of life were hard, and the cir-
cumstances for the development of a better constituted society were
wanting. Wars and midnight forays between adjacent tribes make
up such legendary history as has survived , and in the absence of
any means of chronicling events, history even of this kind soon
lapsed Into mythology.
The Indians weie divided into almost innumerable tribes, with
distinctive names ; but by^ means of a study of their language it
becomes possible to unite many of these under wider groups, which
the tribal units would not themselves have recognised.
Of these groups the Eskimo are the most northern and in many
respects the most homogeneous. They held and still hold the whole
Arctic littoral from Labrador to Bering Sea, but never spread far
Inland. To the S. of the Eskimo two great races divided between
them the greater part of Canada; the Algohkin (or Algonquin) and
the Tinneh or Athapascan.
The Algonkin peoples occupied a vast tract extending from the
Atlantic coast to a line drawn from the mouth of the Churchill River
on Hudson Bay In a S.W. direction to the Rocky Mountains. Of
this stock were the Micmacs and Malieetes (or McUiseets) of Nova
Scotia and New Brunswick, the Abnakis, the Montagnais of the
lands to the N. of the Gulf of St. Lawrence , the Ottawas , the
Ojihwas to the N. of the Great Lakes, and the Cree$j in part in-
habiting ihe great prairies and in part the adjacent woodlands to
the N. The Black foot tribes of the extreme W. plains are also at-
tached by language to the Algonkin race. To the N.W., the Tinneh
peopled the entire inland region of the continent, Including the
Mackenzie valley and that of the Yukon. Among their numerous
tribal divisions may be mentioned the Beavers^ Loucheux, Kutchin^
Siccanies, and Tdeullies,
Both the Algonkins and the Tinneh or Athapascans were hunt-
ers and fishermen, often roaming over vast distances in search of
food and skins , and they can at no time have been numerous in
proportion to the extent of territory they covered in their migrations.
Newfoundland was peopled by a race known as the BeoihukSy
now entirely extinct and of which very little is known. The St.
Lawrence valley, from the vicinity of Quebec to Lake Huron, was
held by the Iroquois ov Huron-Iroquois , who appear to* have con-
xlviii IX. GEOGRAPHICAL SKETCH.
stitated a rather numerous population at the time of their discovery
and were to some extent occupied in tillage, producing limited crops
of maize, heans, pumpkins, and tohacco. They possessed fortified
villages and were continually at war with the ruder Algonkin tribes
to the N.
The Dakota or ^Sioux' Indians, whose main home was to the S.
of the 49th parallel, with their offshoot the Assiniboines or Stoneys,
spread to the N., over a part of the Canadian great plains.
The S. part of British Columbia was chiefly occupied by tribes
now classified as belonging to the Salish stock, including the 8hu8~
waps , LillooeU , Okanagans , and others. These tribes marched to
the N. with the Chilcotina and Takullies of Tinneh affiliation.
In the S.E. corner of British Columbia the Kootaniea appear to
form a distinct linguistic division; while on the Pacific coast several
different languages were spoken , and such maritime tribes as the
Haida, Tshimsian, Aht, and Kwakiool are found.
As progressing settlement and the borders of civilization have
encroached on the native tribes, these have been from time to time
granted reservations, and arrangements have been come to with them
by which they abandoned their claims to their wide hunting-grounds.
The compacts thus entered into with the Canadian Indians have
been observed , and since the early days of the French occupation
there has been scarcely any active hostility between the whites and
these people.
In the £. part of Canada some bands of the Indians have now
settled upon the land, others find a more congenial occupation of a
nomadic character as voyageurs, or lead a gipsy-like existence and
make a living by manufacturing bark canoes, snow-shoes, mocca-
sins, baskets, and such like articles. A certain number still retain
their character as hunters and trappers in the N. wilderness ; but
those which are likely to be seen by the traveller have, by the ad-
mixture of white blood , ceased to present in any notable degree
their original characteristics. To meet with the Indian more nearly
in his native state, one must go to Manitoba, Alberta, Saskatchewan,
the North-West Territories, or British Columbia.
On the plains of the N.W., the extinction of the buffalo has
within a few years deprived the native races of practically their
whole means of subsistence, and the Government has been obliged
to provide them with food and clothing, though on certain reserva-
tions they are already taking to agricultural pursuits with more suc-
cess than might have been argued from their original desultory mode
of life. In the S. part of British Columbia the Indians are in some
places proving to be industrious and capable of maintaining them-
selves in various ways. Upon the coast of the same province , the
native fishermen , where the circumstances are favourable, readily
adopt any mode of life by which a fair remuneration for their labour
can be obtained. They are largely employed in salmon canneries,
Digitized by VjOOQIC
X. SPORTS AND PASTIMES. xlix
in Baw-mills, and in the fui-seal fishery, though in gome of theii
more remote yillages they still remain much in their prisHne state.
In the far N., the natives generally maintain their old habits , and
though supplied with many of the manufactured products of ciyili-
zation, they remain hunters, and depend for the means of purchas-
ing commodities which they have now learned to prize upon the
sale of peltries. These Indians , with a large part of the Eskimo,
may be regarded as dependents on the Hudson's Bay Company,
which to them represents Providence.
It is now known that many of the estimates made at various
times of the Indian population have been greatly exaggerated, but
it is impossible to state even approximately what their number
may have been at the time of the discovery of the continent. In
most regions they have undoubtedly diminished very materially,
but in some places the enumerations made .in late years show
a stationary condition and in a few cases an actual increase. It would
thus appear, that though in certain districts the aborigines may lose
their identity by blending with the white population, they are not
likely in Canada to disappear or become extinct. There are many
avocations to which their habits and mode of thought peculiarly
adapt them, and Canada includes a great area in which l^e lore of
the Indians is likely to remain for all time the greatest vdsdom.
The total number of Indians now included within the boundaries
of the Dominion is estimated at about 107,000.
X. Sports and Pastimei.
By
E, T. D. Chambera and W. H, FuUer.
Pishing. The Dominion of Canada may be justly regarded as
the Paradise of the angler. Landing at the historic city of Quebec
in the spring or early summer, the lover of Isaac Walton's gentle art
will find himself within easy distance of hundreds of limpid lakes,
varying from a few acres to miles in extent, set like gems in the
midst of forests as yet hardly touched by the axe, and teeming with
speckled trout, lake trout, and black bass, of a rapacity and size to
thrill with joy the heart of the angler accustomed only to the shy and
puny denizens of English streams. Most of these lakes are free to
all-comers, but a few of the most easily accessible are in the hands
of private parties who have formed flshlng-clubs, erected club-houses,
and make a faint pretence of preserving the waters. The tourist,
with any ordinary letters of introduction, will find no difficulty in
obtaining permission to fish these lakes» the hospitality of Canadians
in this regard being proverbial.
Should, however, the visitor prefer to taste the delights of the
wild wood unfettered by the restraints of civilization, he may en-
gage a couple of guides, provide himself with a tent, abirch-bark
Ba«dbkib'8 Canada. 8rd Bdit. Digitized by ^OOglc
1 X. SPORTS AND PASTIMES.
canoe, and a few simple cooking-utensils, and in a few hours find
himself encamped beneath the shade of the ^forest primaval', ap-
parently as far removed from the trammels of society as though he
were in the intdrior of the 'Dark Continent'. The isost of such a
trip will, of course, vary according to the requirements of the tour-
ist, but it may be kept within very moderate limits. The wages
of the guides will be from $1.50 to $2 per day A birch-bark
canoe of the requisite size can be bought for about $ 20 and should
be readily resold for about half its original cost; but, if preferred,
the guides will provide this, as well as a tent, charging a moderate
sum for their use during the trip. Cooking-utensils, including the
indispensable frying-pan, which plays so important a part in Ca-
nadian forest cookery, will cost only a trifle ; while for provisions
the true woodsman will content himself with a flitch of bacon, a
few pieces of fat salt pork, flour, tea, and such a supply of canned
vegetables and fruit as his tastes and the length of his stay may call
for. These, supplemented by the product of his rod and line,
should amply suffice for the needs of a genuine sportsman, and as
there will probably be a few scattered settlers in the vicinity of
his camping ground from whom eggs, milk, potatoes, and, occasion-
ally, butter may be procured, all the reasonable requirements of the
inner man will be fully satisfied. Worcester sauce is, curiously
enough, almost always taken. The sportsman should also be care-
ful to furnish himself with a mosquito net for protection at night
against the assaults of these little winged pests, which otherwise
would prove a serious drawback to his enjoyment.
The fishing for Trout (Salmo fontinalis ; speckled or brook trout)
is at its best as soon as the ice is fairly out of the lakes — vis, about
the middle of May and during the month of June and early part of
July, when the fish are found in the shallow water and rise readily
to the fly. Later, as the water becomes warm, they seek the deeper
parts of the lakes and are only to be captured by deep trolling and
bait-fishing, until towards the middle of September, when instinct
impels them to the vicinity of their spawning-grounds. The angler
in Canadian lakes need give himself but little concern about the
character of the artificial flies he requires for his trip. A dozen
varieties of medium size are all he will need, and these can readily
be obtained in the local shops. The Canadian trout, unlike theii
British brethren, are not fastidious. They, however, rank with the
finest trout in the world for beauty of form and marking and for
excellence of flesh. Specimens of 5-6 lbs. are considered large, but
they sometimes reach, double that weight.
Should the angler seek a nobler quarry, he can betake himself
to the beautiful Lake St. John (p. 164), the home of the famous
Ouananiehe .(*Wah-na-nish') , the fresh-water salmon of Canada.
This is a true Salmo solar ^ which has never run down to the seer
firom its original f^eah- water habitat. It bears a strong resemblance
.. .Digitized by. doodle ;. .
X. SPORTS AND PASTIMES. li
to its supposed progeny, — the salmon of the sea, whom it excels
in rapacity and gameness, but it rarely exceeds six or seven pounds
iu weight (comp. p. 164).
The tributaries of the St. Lawrence, especially those on the N.
shore of this noble riyer, have long been famous for their Salmon
(Salmo salar) fishing. They are, however, almost entirely held by
private owners ; and, as the pools are limited in number, it is not
easy to obtain leave to capture this monarch of game fish. There
are still, however, many fair streams where fishing may be hired
by the day or for longer periods. The outlets of these rivers abound
with Sea Trout (Salvelinus fontinalis) of large size, which come in
with each tide and afford fine sport to the angler, as they rise
freely to the fly and are commonly taken from three to six pounds
in weight. This fishing is open to all and is at its best from the
latter part of June to the end of July, though the trout continue
to run up the rivers for the purpose of spawning till September.
These S. shore salmon and sea-trout streams are easily reached by
means of the Intercolonial Railway (see R. 24), which forms a
direct route to the fishing and summer resorts of the lower St. Law-
rence and Bale des Chaleurs as well as to those of New Brunswick
and Nova Scotia. Both these last-mentioned provinces abound in
lakes and streams, most of them well stocked with trout of large
size. They are free to all legitimate fishermen. For some account
of the fine salmon and trout fishing of the New Brunswick rivers
Bestigouche, Nipisiguit, Miramichi, and Tobique, comp. pp. 90, 89,
88, and 40. See also p. 38.
The Lake Trout (S. namaycush ; also called salmon-trout, forked
tail trout, and touladi) is the prevailing trout in Canada and some-
times attains a weight of 40 lbs. It rarely rises to the fly, and is
generally taken by trolling or by bait-hooks sunk near the bottom
of the river.
The Pike (Esox lucius) is similar to the English variety and i^
widely scattered. In some of the tributaries of Lake St. John it has
been taken nearly 50 lbs. in weight. — The Maakinothge (Esox no-
bilior), the largest member of the pike family, prevails extensively
in the St. Lawrence, the Ottawa, Lake Memphremagog (p. 18), and
many other waters.
The Perch (Perca fluviatilis), the Ouitouche (Semotilus bullaris),
and the Pidcerel or DorS (Stizostedium vitreum) are also widely
distributed and afford good sport.
As the traveller proceeds towards the W. he will find in the
vicinity of Ottawa, the political capital of the Dominion, scores of
lakes, similar in character to those already described, some of them
abounding in Black Baas (Micropterus Dolomiei) from two to six
pounds in weight, the larger size being by no means rare. These are
most readily captured by trolling or fishing with a live minnow,
though during the month of July they take the fly readily. Catches
d*
lii X. SPORTS AND PASTIMES.
of thirty or forty of these game fish to a single rod in the course
of a few hours are not uncommon; and the struggles of a five pound
bass on a light fly-rod will afford the angler a sensation he will not
readily forget. Their flesh is excellent eating. This region also has
lately been made easily accessible by the construction of the Grace-
fleld branch of the Canadian Pacific Railway, which has been ex-
tended to the head-waters of the Gatineau river through a district
hitherto trodden only by the lumberman and a few wandering In-
dians (see p. 182). — Another famous sporting-district, heretofore
difficult of access, has been opened up by the Parry Sound branch
of the Grand Trunk Railway f comp. R. 41). This line runs from
Ottawa to Parry Sound on Georgian Bay and passes through the
famous sporting-districts of Muskoka and Opeongo. — The Rideau
Lakes (p. 183) are also within easy reach of Ottawa and abound
with black bass, pickerel, and lake-trout.
All along the lines of the Canadian Pacific and Grand Trunk
Railways the tourist as he wends his way towards the N.W. will
have ample opportunity of indulging his piscatory tastes. From
Toronto the great range of the Muskoka and Kawartha Lakes lies
open to the angler and can be reached with ease and comfort (comp.
R. 40 and p. 187). All these lakes teem with fish, and the sportsman
can either take up his abode in one of the numerous hostelries,
with which the shores of the principal lakes are studded , or camp
in comparative solitude on one of the many islands. — The waters
of the Temagami region (p. 237) abound in trout and bass.
Moving on to the W. along the line of the Canadian Pacific Rail-
way, the traveller crosses numberless lakes and rivers, most of them
abounding in fish. On many of the best fishing-streams, where the
dense forest made access almost impossible except to the experi-
enced woodsman, the railway company has cut * trails* (paths) lead-
ing direct to the best fishing-points; but the angler will probably
prefer to push on to Niplgon Station (p 236) , situated on the fa-
mous trout river of that name. The reputation of this wonderful
stream has been so widely spread among the followers of the gentle
art, that detail is unnecessary. Suffice it to say that speckled trout
three, four, five pounds in weight are common, while even eight-
pounders are occasionally taken. Whitefish (Coregonus cltipeiformis)
also afford fine sport in this district. They rise freely at small flies
and run as high as three pounds in weight. They resemble much the
grayling of the English streams , having very tender mouths and
requiring skilful handling before they can be landed. Away onward
from this point to Winnipeg there is a succession of lakes and
streams, a description of which would be only a repetition of what
has already been written.
Most of the prairie streams and lakes near Winnipeg are well
stocked with trout, pike, pickerel, black bass, and other fish. Far-
ther to the W. , at Calgary (p. 266), fine fishing for-mountain-trout
X. SPORTS AND PASTIMES. liii
may be obtained in the Bow and its tributaries. Banff (p. 258) is
another excellent sporting- centre , which offers the additional in-
ducement of luxurious accommodation in its fine hotel. The Lower
Kootenay River (p. 288), still farther to the West, teems with
mountain-trout of fair size. The Canadian Pacific Railway Go. has
built sereral fishing-camps on the river between Robson and Nel-
son, each with accommodation for 6-8 persons , while camp-sup-
plies may be obtained at the Company's store in Robson. There is
also good fly-fishing at several points nearer the coast, notably at
Coquitlan, 17' M. by train from Westminster Junction (p. 284),
where there is a good hotel. The Capilano and Seymour creeks,
across the bay from Vancouver (p. 284; ferry, see p. 286)» afford
good trout-fishing. Large numbers of salmon are caught in the
bay by trolling, as the Pacific Coast salmon will not rise to a fly ;
but this mode of capture will hardly commend itself to the genuine
sportsman.
Shooting. In the foregoing remarks reference has been made
only to fishing, that being the sport most readily available to the
tourist, and coming within the scope of an ordinary summer trip.
Shooting in Canada does not, as a rule, commence before Sept. 1st,
but it may be said here that in most of the districts already referred
to , good sport with rifle and shot gun can be had in the proper
seasons, which may be ascertained by a glance at the synopsis of the
Game Laws of the various provinces annexed to this article (p. Ixi).
Nothing can surpass the charm of a hunting-trip in the Canadian
woods during the months of Sept. and October. The forest-trees
are beginning to don their gorgeous fall livery ; the air, fresh and
balmy during the day, is yet sufficiently crisp and bracing at night
and early morning to make the blazing camp-fire thoroughly en-
joyable; while the winged pests, which detract so much from the
sportsman's enjoyment during the summer months, have beaten a
retreat to their winter quarters.
The chief ambition of the sportsman on his first visit to Canada
will probably be to kill a Moose (Alces Americanus), the male of
which is frequently 8ft. high, weighs 1500 lbs., and has horns
weighing 60-70 lbs. and measuring 5-6 ft. from tip to tip. Good
moose heads and antlers are sometimes valued at $ 100-300 , even
in Montreal or Quebec. In Sept. and Oct. moose are often surprised
and killed while wading in the cool waters of inland lakes, where
they feed on the roots and stems of aquatic plants. Like the red
deer (see p. liv) the moose 'yard' in winter, the yard consisting of a
cedar or spruce swamp , round or through which they make beaten
tracks in their rambling. They are thus easily traced by the guides,
when once the yard has been discovered. A yard sometimes con-
tains 40 or 50 animals. After a fresh fall of snow , hunters on
snowshoes can easily overtake the moose, whose great weight causes
them to sink in the snow. Indian and half-breed guides frequently
llv X. SPORTS AND PASTIMES.
attract moose by imitating their cry. The animal crashes passion-
ately towards the sound and meets its doom. A repeating rifle is a
necessity, for a wounded bull-moose will turn upon his assailant.
In no case need the hunter expect to kill this monarch of the forest
without the expenditure of much labour and skill, and a true eye
and steady nerve are required for the final shot.
Perhaps the moose-hunter cannot do better than make his first
essay in Nova Scotia. There are three recognised sporting-districts
in this province: the Northern, which comprises the counties of
Cumberland and Colchester ; the Eastern , which includes portions
of East Halifax, Guysborough, and Pictou; and the Western, which
takes in all the country to the W. of a line drawn from Halifax
to Yarmouth. Of these districts the last is probably the best; and
moose are reported 'plentiful* and increasing in numbers. The
Immense extent of wild and uncultivable land in Quebec and La-
brador, stretching N. to Hudson Strait and Bay, is another enormous
game preserve in which the moose occurs in large numbers. Moose
abound in the country traversed by the Lake St. John Railway (R. 32),
and one of the large feeders of Lake St. John is named Ashouap-
mouchouan (p. 164), or 'river where they hunt the moose'. This
noble game is also plentiful near liake AbitLbi (p. 240), and Mattawa
(p. 232) is a noted centre for British and American moose-hunters.
The Caribou (Tarandus hostilis), of which adults weigh
300-600 lbs., is even more widely distributed than the moose,
occurring In nearly all the unsettled parts of Quebec , Nova Scotia,
New Brunswick , and Ontario , as well as in the North West Terri-
tories and British Columbia. In Quebec the most popular caribou
grounds are on and about Les Jardins, near the headwaters of Murray
Bay River and now included in the Laurentides National Park
(p. 163). The name is derived firom the luxuriant growth of coarse
grass, which is sprinkled with occasional clumps of bushes and trees,
forming admirable screens for the hunter. The district is reached by
a drive of 40 M. from Bale St. Paul (p. 167) and a subsequent tramp
of a few miles through wood. Another excellent hunting-ground
for caribou is at La Belle Riviere, to the S. E. of Lake St. John. In
the wilds about Ungava Bay, peopled exclusively by Eskimo and
Indians, the caribou is shot late in autumn by hundreds and thou-
sands, the officials of the Hudson's Bay Co. at Fort Chimo depend-
ing principally on its flesh for subsistence during winter.
The common Red Deer (Cervus Virginianus) , which is much
smaller than the caribou and by far the most graceful of the Ameri-
can CervidiB, occurs in all provinces of the Dominion except Nova
Sootia and Prince Edward Island. In Quebec it prevails on the S.
of the St. Lawrence, towards the frontiers of Maine. To the N. of the
St. Lawrence it occurs mainly in the W. part of the province, between
the St. Maurice and the Ottawa, but of late years it has also been
found in the country to the N. of the city of Quebec/^ Red deer are so
X. SPORTS AND PASTIBIES. Iv
plentiful in the Metapedia Valley (p. 91), that they sometimes lun
for miles in front of the trains of the Intercolonial Railway (R. 24).
The Black Bear (Ursus Americanns) is common all ovei Canada.
It hibernates in winter, but may be met and killed at any other time
of 'the year. Unless attacked , it usually flees before the hunter,
but invades farm settlements at night, carrying off sheep and calves.
It is often shot while swimming rivers. At Lake Timiskaming
(p. 239) three sportsmen recently killed seven bears in one afternoon.
It is abundant in the Saguenay country and near Lake St. John and
the rivers that feed it. The fur is highly prized.
The principal fur-bearing animals are the Beaver (Castor Cana-
densis), the Mink (Putorius vison), the Otter (Lutra Canadensis),
and the Marten (Mustela Americana). None of these may be killed
between April 1st and Nov. 1st.
The Canadian Hare (Lepus Americanns) is smaller than the
English hare, being little larger than, a rabbit, and turns white in
winter. It is not so plentiful as formerly, snaring being allowed
and freely practised.
Good fowling may be obtained in almost every part of Canada,
though game-birds of all kinds are naturally scarcer in the vicinity
of large cities. Duck and Snipe abound in Nova Scotia. English
Pheasanti have lately been imported by the Halifax Fish and Game
Club and into parts of Ontario and British Columbia; they are said
to stand the winter well and to be increasing rapidly. New Brun-
swick offers equal inducements to the sportsman. The best localities
are traversed by the New Brunswick Railway, now embodied in the
Canadian Pacific System (R. 16). On the upper Tobique (p. 40)
and a few miles back in the woods moose and bear are numerous.
A village of Abnaki Indians is located at the confluence of the
rivers,, and the residents have a good reputation as reliable guides.
In' the district to the S., W., and E. of Lake St. John (R. 321
excellent sport may be had with moose, caribou, bear, duck, and
Ruffled Cfrouse (Bonasa umbellus). These, added to the incom-
parable ouananiche fishing (p. 1), should form a bill of fare cal-
culated to satisfy the most exigeant sportsman. The districts ad-
joining most of the summer-resorts on the lower St. Lawrence offer
similar inducements.
In the neighbourhood of Three Rivers (p. 139) and Sorel (p. 143)
capital duck, snipe, and woodcock shooting may be had in the
marshes bordering on the river, and a few days may profitably be
spent in these localities.
The Rideau Lakes and River (p. 183), within a short distance of
the city of Ottawa, afford very fair sport with duck and snipe, while
a short distance inland from the margin of the lakes a fair number
of deer may be obtained. The easy access to this district from the
city, though convenient for the tourist whosettime is limited, mili-
tates to some extent against the increase ^f the gam^g GoOqIc
M X. SPORTS AND PASTIMES.
The district already referred to as being opened up by the Qrace-
field branch of the Canadian Pacific Railway (see p. lil) affords a new
and almost yirgin field to the sportsman. The forests all along the
line of the railway abound with deer, caribou, and bear, while a
short distance to the N. of the terminus of the line, moose are siid
to be plentiful.
The region of Parry Sound (pp. 204, 198, 223), Georgian
Bay (p. 223), and the Muskoka Lakes (R. 40) are now so much fre-
quented by summer-Tisitors that good shooting is not so plentiful
as it was a few years ago ; still , fair sport can be obtained by the
tourist who desires to combine the comforts of civilized life with
the pleasures of the chase.
Sharbot Lake (p. 187), easily reached from Ottawa, is a noted
place for duck, which seem to make it a resting-place during their
journey to their breeding-grounds farther to the N. Very heavy
bags are frequently made there. — All the extensive chain of lakes
in the neighbourhood of the town of Peterborough (p. 187) and
lying to the N. of the river Trent (p. 189) afford good sport for
fowling-piece and rod. All these localities are accessible by means of
the Canadian Pacific and Grand Trunk Railways. — Farther to the
"W., in a portion of the country lying between London (p. 207) and
Chatham (p. 207), Wild Turkey may still be found. QuaU (Ortyx
Yirginianus) abound in this district; but, as is usually the case
in the neighbourhood of all populous towns , they are subjected
to too much shooting and are likely ere long to become scarce.
They afford excellent sport over good dogs.
Below Chatham are the famous Lake St. Clair marshes (p. 207),
where a good shot will frequently kill over a hundred big duck in
a single day's shooting. The finest portions of the marshes are
strictly preserved, but good mixed bags of woodcock, snipe, quail,
plover, and duck may be made at other points on the lake. Wild
geese are plentiful in the spring and are usually shot from 'blinds*
erected on the line of flight. Hotel accommodation can be had in
the neighbourhood.
All the tributaries of the Ottawa River (RR. 37, 48) afford good
sport for gun and rod and have the advantage of being within easy
distance of central points. Ottawa is as good a point as any for the
sportsman's headquarters , while farther up the main line of the
Canadian Pacific Railway the thriving town of Pembroke (p. 231)
offers an excellent ^point d*appuf, — Moving to the W. along the
transcontinental line, we come to Mattawa (p. 232), a good starting-
point for the big game country. Deer abound, as also do black bear,
while moose are as plentiful as that noble animal can reasonably
be expected to be (comp. p. liii). Guides, boats, and canoes can
readily be obtained here. Lake Timiskaming (p. 239), easily reached
from this point, is surrounded by virgin forests abounding in game,
moose, caribou, and bear. — Following up the mainline of the rail-
' ' ° ^ Digitized by^^
X. SPORTS AND PASTIMES. Ivii
way, we reach Noxth Bay (p. 233); also a station on the Grand
Trunk Railway, from which the new Timiskaming and Northern
Ontario Railway mns into the heart of the picturesque Temagami
country, where splendid sport with fur and feathered game may
he had.
From this point onwards to Winnipeg there is a succession of
lakes and streams, fishing and shooting grounds, a description of
which would only he a repetition of what has already heen said j
hut as soon as the capital town of Manitoha is reached the con-
ditions hecome entirely changed. Now we have a vast expanse of
rolling prairie land, nearly 1000 M. wide, dotted over with numher-
less lakes and swales which have for centuries past heen the resort
of the migratory water-fowl on their journeys to their hreeding-
grounds in the far North. Here the true sportsman, who enjoys
watching the working of his well-trained dogs almost as much as
the shooting itself, will find sport of a varied character and may
safely count on a well-filled hag within a few hours' journey from
Winnipeg. Duck and geese of every variety, Snipe^ Oolden Plover,
and Prairie Chicken (Gupidonia cupido) ahound, while farther afield,
in the extreme East of Manitoha, there is a fine country for moose.
Taking the town of Winnipeg as a starting-point, the sportsman
can have a choice of an infinite variety of trips according to the
character of Ihe game he wishes to pursue. Everything necessary for
these excursions can readily he procured at Winnipeg (comp. pp.249,
250). Shoal Lake (p. 250) ahounds in wUd-fowl, while in the
unsettled country to the N. of the lake are many Btack-tcNl Deer
(Cervus macrotis) and a few moose and elk. Whitewater Lake,
Lake Winnipeg (p. 250), and Lake Manitoha (p. 251) afford
enormous hags of wild ducks, and hig game can he had in the
vicinity.
Father to the W., near Maple Creek (p. 255) and Medicine Hat
(p. 255), is what is known as the *Antelope Country'; and to the
N. of Calgary (p. 256) is the *Red-deer Region', a fine one for hig
game, though as yet seldom visited.
Away through the heart of the Rocky Mountains, in the midst of
the grandest scenery the world has to show, the ardent sportsman
will find farther varieties of game. The Wapiti or American Elk
(Cervns Canadensis) , moose, deer, carihou. Mountain Sheep {O^U
Canadensis), Mountain Ooat (Haploceros) , and even the Qrizzly
Bear (Ursus horrihllis), monarch of the mountains, may fall hefore
his rifle. The construction of the railway through the Rookies has
naturally driven hack the game some little distance from the track,
hut there are numerous places along the line , whence the resorts
of the hig game can easily he reached, with the help of local guides.
The railway officials will always he found ready to give information
and facilities to sportsmen. Laggan (p. 268) and Field (p. 271)
are the host points, and Banff (p. 258) is also d"?^! ff^Ob^O'ft^lJ^®
Iviii X. SPORTS AND PASTIBfES.
steamers ascending the Golnmbia from Golden (p. 273) aiford
access to a fine game country. There is always a fair chance of
meeting mountain goat and sheep in the Asulkan district (p. 276),
where the railway company has erected a roomy chalet.
On Vancouver Island, within a short distance of Victoria (p. 289),
grouse and quail are plentiful; while a short journey into the in-
terior of the island brings us to the ranges frequented by deer and
hear.
It should be borne in mind by the sportsmen who propose to
hunt the *big game' of Canada that repeating rifles of the heaviest
make will be found the most desirable.
In addition to the above article, the sportsman should consult the
excellent pamphlets on shooting and fishing, published and distributed
(usually gratis) by the Canadian Pacific, the Grand Trunk, the Inter-
colonial, and other railway companies.
Lacrosse is the national game of Canada and takes precedence
of all others in the public estimation. It is a modern variation of
the 'ball game' as originally played by some of the Indian tribes
and described by various writers. It demands great skill, activity,
and endurance, and is unquestionably one of the most attractive of
all pastimes for the onlooker, being full of incident, simple in its
nature, and *easily understanded of the people*. The National La-
cro89e Vniorhj comprising representatives of the pring^pal clubs in
Ontario and Quebec, regulates the dates and locality, and estab-
lishes the rules, of the annual matches for the championship. A
championship match usually brings together an immense crowd of
spectators.
The leading lacrosse clubs of Canada have recently adopted a rule
allowing what is virtually professionalism. By its terms paid players may
play with amateurs, but the former are to be styled ^employ^s' of the
club to which they belong, and are, as such, to be in every way subser-
vient to its orders. It is feared that this pernicious example may affect
other Canadian sports. For the benefit of the English reader, it may be
explained that there is no real analogy between this action and the playing
of a professional on an English cricket team , since the paid lacrosae
players are not instructors or coaches.
The enthusiasm of the spectators for a favourite club is sometimea
carried to excess, and some of the principal matches have lately been
disgraced by a rowdyism which, if not put down with a strong hand.
cannot fail to bring the game into disrepute. A match lasts V/2 hr., and
a rest of 5 min. is allowed efter ^ach game lasting 3 min. or more.
Cricket. The principal clubs are those of Toronto, Montreal,
Ottawa, Quebec, Winnipeg, Victoria, St. John, and Halifax. There
is an Associaticnj which selects players to represent All Canada in
the annual match with the United States and against other visiting
teams. The game, however, excites little general interest.
Golf is played at Quebec, Montreal, Ottawa, Kingston, and
Toronto. The Quebec Club is the oldest, dating from upwards of
20 years ago (links, see p. 164). Montreal ranks next in seniority
(p. 127), while the other clubs are of comparatively recent origin.
Great interest has, of late, been taken in the game ; and visitlBg
X. SPORTS AND PASTIMES. lix
golfers may be assured of a varm welcome. Inter-Proylncial and
International (with the United States) Tournaments promise to be
annual events. The St. Andrews rules are generally followed.
Hockey Is played in Canada only as a winter-game, and the
expertness of Canadian skaters makes a well-oontested match an
extremely graceful and interesting sight. There is much rivalry
between the clubs of the different cities. Canadian players rank as
the. most skilful in the world and are much sought after by United
States Clubs.
Skating can be enjoyed to perfection in Canada from Dec. to
March. Almost every city or town has one or more covered skating-
rinks (comp. p. 126), which are well attended by both sexes. Most
of them are lighted by electricity ; and the fancy-dress carnivals
held in them afford a unique and very attractive spectacle.
Snowshoeing. Every town in Canada has its snowshoe club,
and in the cities and larger towns they are numerous. Each club
has its distinctive uniform of bright-coloured blanket-coat and
'tuque* (cowl), so that a procession of snowshoers tramping across
the snow on a clear moonlight night, rousing the echoes with their
songs and choruses , is a most attractive sight , and one not to be
witnessed outside of the Dominion of Canada. The art of walking
on snowshoes is not quite as easy as it looks , but can be acquired
after a little practice.
Tobogganing is an extremely popular winter amusement in
Canada with all classes, from the small boy who slides down a steep
hill on his *bob-sled* to the ^ite of society who flock to Rideau
Hall on Saturday afternoons to enjoy the facilities afforded by the
viceregal slides. A toboggan* is constructed of thin pieces of board
about 18 inches wide , curved upwards at one end and varying in
length from 4 to 8 ft. , according to the number of persons it Is de-
signed to carry. A long cushion is placed on it for the passengers ;
and the firail conveyance rushes down the snow-covered declivity
at the speed of an express train. The steersman, in the rear,
directs its course with hands or feet. The sport is most exhilarat-
ing and has a sufficient spice of danger to make it exciting. The
toboggan is an invention of the Indians, who use it to drag burdens
along the snow.
Tachting and Boating. Toronto is the headquarters of these
sports, its fine lake-frontage affording special facilities for regattas.
A yacht club and several rowing-clubs are located here (comp.
pp. 191, 197). Halifax and Montreal are other yachting - centres
(pp. 50, 127), and there are rowing and canoe clubs at Ottawa,
Lachine (p. 230), and other places. Numerous regattas, open to all
amateurs, are held annually. The Royal St. Lawrence Yacht Club
has eight times (in nine races) won the ^Seawanhaka International
Challenge Cup', which is for *twenty*flve footers* what the America
Ix X. SMRTS AND PASTHIES.
Gup is for large yachts ; but in 1906 it lost it to the Manchester
Yacht Club of the United States.
Curling is seen at its fullest perfection in Canada. In Quebec
and E. Ontario metal 'stones' are in vogue instead of the granite
ones commonly used in Scotland. Nearly all the Canadian rinks
are in covered buildings ; and, as the ice is very carefully looked
after, a nicety of play is attainable that would be a revelation to
oldi-fashioned curlers accustomed to the rough-and-ready style of
the open-air game. Montreal has three curling clubs (p. 127), each
with a large membership and a commodious club-house. Ottawa
has also three, including the 'Governor - General's Club', with a
private rink attached to the viceregal residence (p. 180). Quebec
has two important clubs. Many of the smaller towns also boast of
rinks. Matches between the various clubs are frequent throughout
the winter. The great event is the Winnipeg Bonspiel, held in Feb.,
to which curlers flock firom Milwaukee, St. Paul, and E. Canada.
The rules observed are those of the *Royal Caledonian Curling
Clnb\
Football flourishes iu Canada, and clubs exist in all the prin-
cipal cities. The Rugby Union rules are most generally adopted,
but the Association game is fast gaining ground.
Cycling is not so much in vogue as it would be if the country-
roads were better. Perhaps the best roads are found in the Maritime
Provinces, especially near Halifax. There are clubs in most of the
larger cities, and annual race-meetings are held. The chief organi-
sation is the Canadian Touring Club.
Motoring is steadily on the increase in Canada, though somewhat
nterfered with by the inferiority of many rural roads.
Bowling is practised in all the large cities , usually in clubs
belonging to the athletic associations.
Baseball has gained a good footing in Canada, and it is now fast
increasing in popularity.
Athletics. Several athletic clubs of considerable importance
have their headquarters in Canada — notably those of Montreal,
Ottawa, and Toronto — and are rapidly increasing in size and
influence. They own commodious club-houses and extend a cordial
welcome to all visiting athletes.
Lawn Tennis still lags behind that of Great Britain or the
United States. Clubs exist in most of the principal towns and
cities, but there is not much general enthusiasm about the game. An
annual tournament is> held under the auspices of the Canada Lawn
Tennis Association; and the 'Queen's Tournament', which takes place
in Aug. at Niagara-on-the-Lake (p. 208), also attracts many com-
petitors.
Horse Bacing. Flat races and steeple-chases take place in Mon-
treal during spring and autumn, under the auspices o^^^;^ Hunt
XI. BIBLIOGRAPHY. Ixi
Club (p. 127) } but the most important race-meeting is that held on
the late Queen Victoria's birthday at Toronto, when the *King's
Plate' is contested. — Trotting races are frequently held both in
summer and winter, but seldom possess more than a local interest.
Summary of Fish and Game Law*.
Close Season*.
Ontario. For salmon, lake-trout, and whitefish, Kov. ist. to 30th.
Speckled trout (brook or river), Sept. 16th to May 1st. Bass, pickerel
and maskinonge, April 15th to June 15th. — Ducks of all kinds, Dec.
15th to Sept. 1st. — Deer may be killed only between Kov. 1st and
Kov. 15th. — Hunting-license for non-residents $ 25.
Quebec. Salmon, Aug. 15th to Feb. Ist. Speckled trout, Oct. 1st to
May 1st. Lake-trout, Oct. 15th to Dec. 1st. Ounaniche, Oct. ist to Dec. Ist.
!Net-flshing is entirely prohibited. — Duck of all kinds, March 1st to Sept. 1st.
— Caribou, Feb. 1st to Sept. 1st. Moose and deer, Jan. 1st to Sept 1st.
The hunting of these animals with dogs is prohibited, and not more than
one moose, two caribou, and two deer may be killed by one person in
a season. The export of deer and all game birds is forbidden. Licenses
for non-residents, $ 10 (fishing) and $ 20 (shooting).
New Brunswick. Moose, caribou, deer, Nov. 80th to Sept. 15th. Cow-
moose protected at all times. — Other provisions similar to those of
Quebec. — License required from non-residents for hunting and shooting.
Fee $60.
Nova Sootia. Moose and caribou from Jan. 1st to Sept. 16th. "So
person may kill more than two moose and four caribou during any one
season. No hunting with dogs allowed. — Salmon, Aug. 15th to Feb. 1st.
Trout, Oct. 1st to April 1st. — License required for non-residents.
Prince Edward Island. Speckled trout, Oct. 1st tu Dec. Ist. Salmon-
trout and whitefish, Oct. 15th to Nov. 30th. Smelts, April 1st to July Ist.
Sturgeon, May 16th to July 15th.
Hanitoba. Deer, Dec. 15th to Dec. Ist. — Duck of all kinds, Jan. 1st
to Sept 16th. Woodcock, plover, and snipe, Jan. 1st to Aug. 1st. — Lake-
trout and whitefish, Oct. 5th to Dec. 15th. Speckled trout, Sept 16th to
May 1st. Maskinonge, April 16th to June 15th.
North West Territories. Elk, moose, caribou, antelope, and mountain
sheep, Nov. 16th to Oct. 1st. Limit, f^ix head to each person during one
season. — Duck, geese, and snipe, May 6th to Aug. 2drd. Grouse, par-
tridge, pheasant, and prairie chicken, Dec. 15th to Sept. 16th. — License-
fee for non-residents $26 for a general license, $16 for a bird license. -->
Speckled trout, Oct. 1st to Jan. Ist.
British Columbia. Deer, elk, caribou, mountain sheep, and mountain
goats, Dec. 15th to Aug. 81st Cow-elk protected at all times. — Grouse,
partridge, pheasant, prairie fowl, and quail, Jan. 1st to Sept. 1st. Hen*
pheasant protected at all times. — Trout, Oct. 15th to March 15th.
XI. Bibliogn^aphy.
The following is a very small selection of ihe most recent, inter-
esting, and easily accessible books on some of the main topics on
which visitors to Canada should be informed. A few of the best
records of the impressions of English travellers are incladed. Numer-
ous other works of local interest are referred to throughout the
textof the Handbook.
The visitor to Canada, who wishes thoroughly and intelligently to
enjoy his tour, should certainly be familiar with the fascinating pages in
Ixii XI. BIBLIOGRAPHY.
which Francis ParkmtmiiA.. 1893) tells the romantic story of the rise and fall
of the French Dominion in Canada. Arranged in the chronological order of
their subjects, his works are as follows: — 'The Pioneers of France in
the Xew World' (1612-1635)5 *a?he Jesuits in North America' (1834-70) j
*La Salle and the Discovery of the Great West' (1643-89); *Gount Fron-
tenac and New France under Louis XIV.' (1620-1701); ^The Old Regime
in Canada' (1653-1763) ; *A Half-Century of Conflict' (1700-48)1 'Montcalm
and Wolfe' (1745-64); and *The Conspiracy of Pontiac' (1763-1769). Mr.
Parkman made extensive use of the Archives of the French Ministry of
Marine, of the 'Jesuit Relations', of the accounts of the voyages of Gartier,
Champlain, etc., and of French and Canadian state-papero of all kinds.
^The Romance of Canadian History', edited by P. Edgar (1904), is a series
of extracts from Parkmsn's works arranged so as to form a short con-
secutive narrative. — For the utilization of more recently discovered manu-
scripts bearing upon the heroic period of Canadian history, eomp. the
works by Dr. A. 0. Doughty and by Mc^ior William Wood mentioned at
p. 147. See also the annual 'Review of Historical Publications relating
to Canada', by O, Jji, Wrong and JET. H. Langton.
The most comprehensive history of Canada is that of William Eingt-
ford^ LL. />., the- tenth and last vol. of which, reaching to 1841, was pub-
lished in 1898. — Other histories are those of /. M. McMvilen (covering
the period 1492-1892: new edit., 1892), Dent (1840^2: pub. 1P83), Bourinot
(1760-1900; pub. 1900), A. O. Bradley (1900), C. F. Lucas (War of 1812}
pub. 1906), F. X. Gameau (1492-1840; 4th edit., 1883), the Abb^ Ferland
(1534-1763; 2nd ed., 1882), and Riveillaud (1504-1851; pub. 1888), the last
three in French. The student may also consult Justin Winsor*s 'Narrative
and Critical History of America'. Among the best manuals are 'The Story
of Canada' by Sir J. O. Bourinot ('Story of the Nations' Series, 1896;
revised and extended edition, 1901), and the 'History of Canada' by Prof.
Claries Roberts (1897). Comp. also BourinoVs 'How Canada is Governed'
(1896) and 'Manual of the Constitutional History of Canada', and Clemenfs
^Canadian Constitution' (1892). 'The Makers of Canada' is a somewhat
unequal series of biographies published by Morang d: Co. of Toronto. —
Among other works that may be mentioned in this connection are Ooldv^
Smith's 'Canada and the Canadian Question' (1891), Sir Charles DilkeU
'Greater Britain' (2nd ed., 1886), Bichard Jebb's 'Studies in Colonial Nation-
alism' (1905), Prof. Seelep^s 'Expansion of England' (1883), Bradshaw's
'Self-government in Canada and how it was obtained' (1903), and EoUand's
'Imperium et Libertas' (1901). — F. A. accord's 'Handbook of Canadian
Dates' (1888) and the 'Canadian Annual Review of Public Affairs' (by
/. C. Bopkins) may be found useful.
Among descriptive works the first place may be givep to 'Picturesque
Canada' (1884), a large and handsomely illustrated work, edited by the
late Principal O. M. Orant, Among other more or less recent books of
description and travel are 'Canada in the Twentieth Century', an excellent
eneral account of Canada and Canadian life by J. 0. Bradley (1904) ;
^Canada To-Day', by John A. Hobson (London; 1906); 'Canafiian Life in
'Town and Country', by Henry J. Morgan and Lawrence J. Burpee (1906);
'The Dominion of Canada', by Charles Marshall (1871); 'Canadian Pic-
tures', bv the Marquis of Lome (1885); 'Canada as it is', by John Foster
Fraser (1905); 'Ocean to Ocean', by Q. M. Grant (1877); 'The Barren Grounds
of Northern Canada', and 'Through the Sub -Arctic Forest', by Warburton
Pike (1891 & 1896); 'On Snow-shoes to the Barren Grounds', by Ccupar
Whitney (1896); '(3amp- Fires in the Canadian Rockies', by Wm. T. Hor-
naday (1905); 'The Great Lone Land' and 'The Wild North Laud', by Capt.
W. F. Butler (1873-4) ; 'Sport and Travel in the Northland of Canada', by
David T. Banbury (1904); 'New Land', by Otto Bverdrup (1904); 'Hudson
Bay, or Every-Day Life in the Wilds of North America', by R. M. Bal-
lantyne; 'Fifteen Years' Sport and Life in the Hunting Grounds of Western
America and British Columbia', by W, A. Baillie Grohman (1900); '^y
Track and Trail through Canada', by Edward Roper (1891); ^Through Canada
in Harvest Time', by James Lumsden (1903); 'Travels and Adventures in
Canada and the Indian Territories', by Alex. Benry (new edit., by James
XI. BIBLIOGRAPHY. Ixlii
Bain; 1901); *The Great Dominion', by O, R, Parkin (1895) ^ 'Through the
Barren Lands* (1896) and *A>-ross the Subarctics of Canada' (3nd ed., 1908),
hjJ. B. TprreU: ^Canada, Britain's largest Colony', by A L. JJaydon (19U6) j
*Our Canadian Heritage', by Wiffhfman (1905) | *d80D Miles across Canada',
by /. W. C HaldaM (1900); ^Greater Canada', by E, B. Oa>om (1900>i and
*The North-West Passage by Land', by Viscount Milton and W. B. CJuadle
(TCh ed., 1867). It should be remembered that the older of the above
books refer to conditions which have largely passed away. *New Lights
on the Early History of the Great Northwest' is a reeen'ly published book,
giving the MS. journals of Alex. Henry and David Thomson (1799-1814),
edited by Ftof. ElUoU Coue*. — For works on the Canadian Rockies by
Outrtxmy Bivifield A Collie^ and Wilcox y see p. 269, and for works on the
Selkirk Mts. by Wheeler and Green ^ see p. 275. — The following recent
French works may be noted: *Le Canada*, les deux races', hj Andri Sieg'
fried (ICOB)? *La Colonisation de la Nouvelle- France', by EmUe Baloni
(1906); *Au Canada et chez les Peaux-Bouges', by George Demanche (1905);
and 'Paysages Canadiens', by Valbert Chevillard (1891).
A good short geographical account of Canada is given by Dr. George
it. Damon in the ^Geography of the British Colonies' in ^MacMillan's
Geographical Series' (1892). See also Part II. of ^North America', by 8. E.
Davson, in 'Stanford's Compendium of Geography and Travel' (new edition,
1899), 'Historical Geography of the Briiish Colonies' (Vol. V., *CanadaO,
by 0. C. Lttcat (1901), nnd 'Descriptive Sketch of the Physical Geography
and Geology of Canada', by A. R. C. Belwyn and G. if. Dawson (1884).
A work that is almost indispensable to the intelligent visitor to Canada
is the excellent 'Statistical Year-Book of Canada', now prepared by Mr.
A, Blue, Chief Census Officer of the Department of Agriculture, and issued
annually. — The ^Reports' of the Geological Survey (list of publications
supplied on application) and of the Department of the Interior also contain
a great deal of matter of interest for the traveller, including accounts of
exploration in wild and unvisited districts. — Accounts of the resources
of the country are given in the 'Handbook of Canada', edited by Profeuors
Wright and Mavor for the meeting of the British Association at Toronto
in 1897, in 'Progress of Canada in the Century', by /. CasUU HopHns (1902),
in 'C.inada's Resources and Possibilities', by /. Stephen Jeans (1904), in
'Canada : the New Nation*, by H. R. Whales (1906), and in Professor James
Mavor'^s 'Report to the Board of Trade on the North-West of Canada' (with
interesting maps; 1904). — 'Canada, an Encyclopeedia of the Country',
edited by /. C. HopHns (6 vols.; 1898-99). — Reports on Altitudes in
Canada can be obtained from the Department of the Interior.
Those interested in geological phenomena should be provided with
*An Annerican Geological Railway Guide', by James MacFarlane (2nd
edit., New York, 1890), in which the geological formation at every rail-
way-station is given, with notes on specially interesting features. — Other
useful books of reference are the 'Canadian Almanac' and the 'Commercial
Handbook of Canada'.
Haps. The leading General Maps of the Dominion are the 'Map of
the Dominion of Canada' (85, 58, & 100 M. per inch), published by the
Department of the Interior; the ^Ilailway Map of Canada', published bv
the Department of Railways & Canals; and the 'Geological Map of Canada ,
issued by the Department of the Geological Survey. These maps can be
procured by application to the Departments at Ottawa; and the last can
also be obtained through a bookseller.
The best maps of the Provisoes toe a 'Man of the Province of On-
tario' (6 M. per inch), issued by the Post Otfice Department, Ottawa;
'Quebec, with outline indications of adjacent provinces and states' (ITi/s M.
per inch I, issued by the Department of Lands. Mines, d^ Fisheries, Quebec;
^MacKinlay's Map of Nova Scotia' (71/3 M. per inch), published by A. W.
MacKinlav, Halifax; *Map of Prince Edward Island^ (2^/2 M. per inch),
published by G. Ballingall, Charlottetown; 'Loggia's Map of New Bruns-
wick' (4 M. per inch), published by J. A A. McMillan, St. Jo^ ; 'Map 01
Digitized by VjC^OQIC
Ixiv XI. BIBLIOGRAPHY.
Manitoba, Alberta, k Saskatchewan (12>/i M. per inch), pablished by the
Department of the Interior, Ottawa-, 'Map of British Columbia* 00 M. per
inch), issued by the Department of Lands and Works, Victoria; 'Map of
Yukon' (12 M. per inch), published by the Department of the Interior,
Ottawa.
Detailed Map* of yarious parts of the country on larger scales are
published by the Department of the Interior and the Geological Survey,
Ottawa , and by the Crown Lands Departments of the Provinces. These
maps can be obtained only by application to the respective Departments,
except those of the (geological Survey, which may also be procured through
booksellers.
AdmrdUy CharU of the Atlantic and Pacific Coasts, of the Gulf and
River St. Lawrence, and of the Great Lakes mav be had from the Ad-
miralty or from the agents at Halifax, Quebec, Toronto, and Vilstoria.
CharU of the Great Lakes, showing the Canadian coasts, are published
by the Corps of Engineers, United States Army, and may be had firom the
Chief of Engineers, Washington.
yGoogk
I. APPROACHES TO CANADA.
Route Page
1. The Trans-Atlantic Voyage 2
a. From Liverpool to Quebec and Montreal .... 2
b. From Liverpool to Halifax 4
c. From Glasgow to Quebec and Montreal 5
d. From Glasgow to Halifax and Portland 5
e. From Antwerp to Quebec and Montreal 5
f. From Liverpool to New York 5
g. From Liverpool to Boston 6
h. From Southampton to New York vi^ Cherbourg. « 6
i. From Hamburg to New York 7
j. From Bremen to New York 7
k. From Havre to New York 8
1. From Antwerp to New York vitt Dover 8
m. From Rotterdam to New York 8
n. From Glasgow to New York 8
0. From Copenhagen, Chris tiania, and Chris tiansand
to New York 9
p. From Genoa and Naples to New York 9
2. From New York to Montreal 9
a. VilL Albany (or Troy), Saratoga, and Lake Champlain 9
b. Via Troy, Rutland, and Burlington 14
c. Via the Connecticut Valley 15
d. Via Utica and the Adirondacks 16
3. From Boston to Montreal 17
a. Via Rutland and Burlington 17
b. Via Lowell and Concord 17
c. Via Concord, Plymouth, Wells River, and Newport 18
From Newport to Magog, 18. From Famham to Ghambly
and Montreal, 19.
d. Via Portsmouth and North Conway 19
4. From New York to Quebec via Springfield 20
5. From Boston to Quebec 21
6. From New York to Toronto 21
7. From Boston to the Maritime Provinces by Sea .... 22
a. From Boston to Eastport and St. John 22
b. From Boston to Yarmouth 23
c. From Boston to Halifax 23
8. From Boston to St. John by Railway 24
From Mc Ad am Junction to Woodstock, 25 j to St. Stephen
and St. Andrews, 25.
9. From Portland to Montreal and Quebec 25
a. Via the Grand Trunk Railway 26
b. Via the Maine Central Railroad 26
Joogle
Basdbkbb's Canada. 3rd Edit.
1. The Trans-Atlantic Voyage.
The following short account of the chief oceanic routes used by
European visitors to Canada may he of service. For general hints
as to the voyage, see p. xii. An interesting account of the Atlantic
steamship - service is given in 'The Atlantic Ferry', by Arthur
J. Maginnis (Sidi ed., 1900). Many steamers on the principal lines
are now equipped with wireless telegraphic apparatus, allowing
communication either with shore-stations or with passing vessels.
The following list of the colours of the funnels ('smoke-stacks') of the
Erincipal steamship-lines will help the traveller to identify the steamers
e meets. Allan, red, with white band and black top; American^ black,
with white band; Anchor y black (English flag); AUantie Tramporty red,
with black top; Canadian Facile Railway^ buflF; Compagnie Oiniraie Tram-
atlanHque, red, with black top (French flag) ; Ounard^ red, with black top
and three narrow black bands ; Dominion, red, with white band and black
top; Hamburg, buff or black (German flag); Holland-Ameriea, black, with
green and white bands; Italian, black, with central white band; Leyland,
red, with black top; North German Lloyd, buff; Red Star, black, with white
band; Scandinavian, black, red, and black; White Star, salmon, with
black top.
The *day's run* of the steamer, given in nautical miles (7 'knots* =
about 8 Engl. M.), is usually posted up every day at noon in the companion-
way. The traveller should remember that his watch will gain V**/* ^^*
daily in going W. and lose the same amount in going E.
a. From Liverpool to Quebec and Montreal.
This is the direct ocean -route from England to Canada and is that
followed by the Allan^ Dominion, and Canadian Pacific RaUway''t Atlantic
lines from the middle of April to the middle of November. Fare from
about $65, second cabin from $40. Quebec is 2635 nautical miles from
Liverpool and is reached in 7-9 days ; Montreal, 140 knots farther up the
St. Lawrence, is reached in 10*12 hrs. more. The usual time on the Atlan-
tic between Ireland and Belle Isle is 4-5 days. The turbine steamer 'Vic-
torian'', of the Allan Line, has made the passage from Moville to Quebec
in 51/2 days, while the G. P. B. 'Empress of Ireland' has reached Montreal
from Liverpool in 6V4 days. Steerage passengers are landed at Quebec,
but first and second cabin passengers have often the option of travelling
thence to Montreal by special train or (recommended) of continuing the
voyage up. the beautiful St. Lawrence. In fine summer weather this is
probably the most satisfactory approach to Canada from Europe. Quebec
time is 4 hrs. 45 min. and Montreal time is 4 hrs. 55 min. behind that
of Liverpool.
Liverpool, see Baedeker'' 8 Great Britain. Passengers usually board
the. Atlantic steamers from the Landing Stage. As we pass down
the wide estuary of the Afcrscy we see the crowded docks of Liverpool
to the right, while to the left lies New Brighton, with its pier, fort,
and lighthouse. The mouth of the river is marked by a lightship,
which we reach in about 2 hrs. after starting. On leaving the
Mersey, the steamer turns to the right (N.W.), passes to the S. of
the Calf of Man (seen to the right), comes in sight of the coast of
Down (Ireland) in about 9 hrs., passes through St Patrick's Channel
(between Ireland ^n4 Scotland), and skirts the N. coast of Ireland,
STRAITS OF BELLE ISLE. /. Route. 3
affording a view of the Island of Rathlln (left). [Sometimes, on a
clear day, the steamer passes between Rathlln and the mainland,
affording a distant view (1.) of the Giant'i Caweway.'\ Some
steamers ascend Lough Foyle to (190 knots from Liverpool) Mo-
viUCf the port of Londonderry^ where mail and extra-passengers
are taken on hoard. On issuing from Lough Foyle, the steamer
steers at first to the W. and then, after passing Malin Head,
the northernmost point of Ireland, to the S.W. The last part
of Ireland seen is usually Tory Island (lighthouse) or the Island
of Arranmore, off the coast of Donegal, The general course fol-
lowed across the Atlantic is considerably to the N. of that of the
New York boats, lying (roughly speaking) between the parallels
of 52° and 66** N. lat. The first land seen in the New World is
the small island of BelU Isle, lying at the mouth of the Oulf of
St. Lawrence. +
We then thread the StraiU of Belle late, 12-20 M. wide, lying
between the forbidding coast of Loftrador (see p. 117) on the right and
the island of Newfoundland (see p. 102) on the left. After we leave
the Straits, the GnU rapidly expands, but in clear weather land is
almost continuously visible to the N. as far as Cape Whittle (see
below). Beyond Bradore Bay the N. coast of the Gulf belongs to
the Province of Quebec (p. 148). Numerous fine salmon - streams
flow into the Gulf all the way from Belle Isle to the Saguenay, and
many small fishing-stations may be seen along the shore. To the
right, about 160 M. from Belle Isle, rises Cape Mekattinaj a bold
headland. At Cape Whittle^ 80 M. farther on, our course bends from
S.W. to nearly W. The steamer is now out of sight of land for about
75 M., until Heath Point, at the E. end of the island of Anticosti, is
seen ahead.
Anticosti, dividing the St. Lawrence Onlf into two channels, lies at
a distance of 25-70 M. from the coast of Quebec. It is 140 M. long and
10-30 M. wide. The Dominion Government maintains important signal-
stations here, and it also bears fonr lighthouses. The island was purchased
in 1895 by Mr. Menier, the chocolate-mannfactnrer of Paris, who has ex-
pended la^e sums of money in developing the fisheries and agriculture. His
experiments have proved that the soil and climate compare very favourably
with the mainland. The fisheries (cod, herring, lobster, and halibat) are
very rich. There are three fair harbours, at EUi* Bay (where Mr. Menier has
constructed a breakwater nearly a mile long), Fox Bay^ for small craft
(with a lobster-cannery), and South West Point. The island is well tim-
bered, and there is a good water-power. The stationary population (almost
wholly French-Canadian) is about 700, but numbers of workmen come
every summer to work at the fisheries and clearing of the land. There
are two villages, Bate Ste. Claire (or English Bay) and Strawberry Cove.
Mr. Menier's villa is at Ellis Bay. Salmon abound in all the rivers.
Mr. Menier has stocked the island vnth moose, red deer, and other wild
animals, and considerable quantities of bear, fox, and martin fur are
annually obtained. Gomp. ^Monographie de Tile d'Anticosti"*, by Joseph
Schmitt (Paris, 1904).
t In May and June the steamers enter the Gulf of St. Lawrence round
the S. side of Newfoundland.
Digitized b%^^OOQlC
4 Route 1. ST. LAWRENCE RIVER.
Nataaliquany 80 M. from Cape Whittle, lies to the light, at the
month of the liyer of the same name, one of the largest on the coast,
and celebiated for its salmon.
The steamer passes to the S. of Anticosti, between it and the
Peninsula of Oaspi (p. 90). Beyond Anticosti the land on both sides,
which again fades ont of sight for a time, belongs to Quebec. To the
left (S.) is Cape Magdalen^ at the mouth of the Magdalen River. To
the right lie Moiaic and the picturesque Bay of Seven Islands^ cel-
ebrated in a ballad of Whittier. On Egg Island (right) Admiral
Walker's fleet was wrecked in 1711 , 800 men losing their lives
(see p. 147). Our course again lies nearly due S. — The St, Anne
Mts.j culminating in Mt. Bayfield (3973 ft.), are seen to the left as
we near the mouth of the St. Lawrence.
We leave the Gulf and enter the noble St. Lawrence Biver (see
p. 227) between Cape Chat on the left and the low Pointe de Monte
(lighthouse) on the right, about 580 M. from Belle Isle and 130 M.
from the W. end of Anticosti. The river is here 32 M. wide. About
25 M. farther on, to the left, rise the Paps of Matane, The village
of Matane lies at the mouth of the Matane River. The steamers not
carrying mails take on the pilot at Father Point (p. 93), while the
mail-steamers take the pilot on board and land the mails and passen-
gers for the Maritime Provinces at Rimouski (see p. 93) , 80 M.
from the mouth of the river, here 30 M. wide. About 10 M. beyond
Rimouski are the little village of Bic (p. 94) and Bic Island. The
outline of the S. shore here is picturesque. Farther on are Troie
Pistoles (p. 94) and the Rosade Isles. Green Island^ 6^2 M". long,
lies just below Cacouna^{^. 168). Nearly opposite, on the N. shore, is
the mouth of the Saguenay (p. 170). From this point to (130 Engl. M.)
Quebec and (310 M.) Montreal, see RR. 33, 29.
b. rrom Liverpool to Halifax.
This is the winter-route of the Allan, C. P. B., and Dominion Steamabip
Lines. The Fumess Line plies fortnightly between Halifax and Liverpool,
calling at St. John's, l^ewfonndland (comp. p. 102), and fortnightly between
London and Halifax. The distance from Liverpool to Halifax is 2A80 knots
(time 7-8 days). Halifax time is 4 hrs. 10 min. behind that of Liverpool.
From Halifax the Dominion steamers go on to Portland (p. 24), the Allan
boats to St, John (p. 27). Some of the Allan steamers ply direct to Portland.
From Liverpool to Tory Island, see pp. 2, 3. The course across
the Atlantic is more southerly than that above described, the first
American land seen being Cape Race, the S.E. extremity of New-
foundland, in 46® 40' N. lat. Thence we steer to the W.S.W. to
(460 knots) Halifax (p. 50), on the E. coast of Nova Scotia, The
mails are put on shore here, and also those passengers who wish
to continue their journey by rail (special train to Montreal and points
in the W. of Canada and the United States).
yGoogk
CARNSORE POINT. /. Route. 5
c. From Glasgow to Quebec and Montreal.
This route is followed by some steamers of the Allan Line (see p. 2).
The distance from Glasgow to Quebec is 2570 knots, the time taken 10-11
days. Passengers may join the steamer at Glasgow or Greenock. The
difference of time between Glasgow and Montreal is 43/4 brs.
QUugow and the beautiful voyage down the Firth of Clyde are
described in Baedeker's Great Britain. On leaving the estuary of the
river, we round the Mull of Cantyre (right) and proceed to the W.,
along the N. coast of Ireland. Thence to Montreal, see R. 1 a.
d. rrom Glasgow to Halifax and Portland.
The Glasgow steamers of the Allan Line follow this route in winter.
Distance to Halifax 2435 knots (9 days), to Portland 2895 knots (10 days).
Portland time is 5 hrs. behind Glasgow time.
From Glasgow to Tory Island, see RR. 1 o and 1 a ; thence to
Halifax and Portland, see R. lb.
e. From Antwerp to Quebee and Montreal.
This route is used by some of the steamers of the Canadian Pacific
Railway's Service (comp. p. 2). The distance to Quebec is 3146 knots, the
time taken 11 days. Fare $60. The steamers go on to Montreal after
landing third-class passengers at Quebec. The difference of time between
Antwerp and Montreal is 5 hrs.
Antwerp, see Baedeker s Belgium and Holland. The first part of
the voyage is similar to that of R. 11, the latter part to that of
R. la.
f. From Liverpool to New Tork.
This is the route followed by the Ounard and White Star steamship
companies. The fastest steamers take about 6 days from port to port
(comp. p. xiii), the slowest 8-9 days. The distance varies from 3000 to
3100 nautical miles (ca. 3400-3550 Engl. M.), according to the course followed.
New York time is 4 hrs. 48 min. behind that of Liverpool. The records
for the fastest passages between Queenstown and New Tork are held at
g resent by the Cunard steamer ^Lucania* (eastward passage in 6 days,
hrs., 37 min. ; westward passage, 5 days, 7 hrs., 23 min.). Fare from $ 75.
The new Ounard steamers *Lusitania* and ^Mauretania*, with turbine engines
and four screws, are the largest vessels afloat (790 ft. long and 88 ft. wide-,
displacement 45,000 tons ; 70,000 horse -power). It is expected that they will
materialJy reduce the time of passage. For greater details of the ro tes
to American ports, see Baedeker'' s United Slates.
From Liverpool to the mouth of the Mersey, see R. 1 a. Farther
on, in clear weather, we see the Welsh coast to the left (S.), where
the Little and Great Orme's Heads are the most prominent points,
backed by the distant Snowdon Group. A little later we skirt the
N. coast of the Isle of Anglesey, then turn to the left, and steer to
the S.W, through St. Georges Channel, soon losing sight of land.
The Skerries, with a lighthouse, lie off the N.W. point of Anglesey.
The first part of the Irish coast sighted is usually Camsore Point,
in Wexford, the S.E. comer of the island, off which lies the Tuskar
Rock Lighthouse. In about 12-16 hrs. after leaving Liverpool we enter
6 Route 1. ST. ALBAN'S HEAD.
the beautifal inner harbour of Queenstovm (about 250 Engl. M. from
Liverpool), where a halt is made to take on board the mails and
additional passengers.
On leaving Queenstown, we skirt the S. coast of Ireland for
some distance, passing several bold rocky headlands. The last piece
of European land seen is usually the Fastnet Rock (lighthouse), off
Cape Clear Island^ 60 M. to the S.W. of Queenstown, or, in clear
weather, Dursey Island, with the adjacent Bull Rock Lighthouse,
In crossing the Atlantic Ocean from E. to "W., the steamer
descends through about 11 degrees of latitude (Queenstown 51®
SO' N. lat.. New York 40® 42' 43*0. The course varies somewhat ac-
cording to the season of the year and from other causes. The sum-
mer route crosses the Banks of Newfoundland (see p. 113). The first
American land sighted is usually either Fire Island or the Navesink
Highlands, each with a lighthouse ; but before either of these we see
the Nantucket Lightship (192 M. from the Sandy Hook Lightship),
which communicates by the Marconi wireless system with Siasconset
and reports incoming vessels. About 3 hrs. after sighting land we
approach Sandy Hook Bar and enter the Bower Bay of New York.
The voyage thence to New York, through the Narrows, past the
Quarantine Station, and up the beautiful *New York Harbour (with
the colossal Statue of Liberty, etc.), is described in Baedeker's United
States, Custom-house formalities, comp. p. xiii.
g. From Liverpool to Boston.
This route is followed by weekly ateamera of the White Star Line and
the Cunard SUamship Co. Ca75-2975 knots, in 7-10 days). The weekly
cattle-steamers of the Leyland Line also carry a limitea number of first-
class passengers in comfortable quarters and at moderate rates (ca. 10 days).
Fare from $55. Boston time is 11 minutes ahead of that of New York.
The route is substantially the same as that to New York (R. If).
Boston, see p. 17.
h. From Southampton to New Tork vi& Cherbourg.
This is the route followed by the American Line (International Mercantile
Marine Co.), sailing under the American flag. The distance from Southamp-
ton to New York is 3075 knots, and the usual duration of the voyage is
6V2-71/2 days. Passengers are conveyed by special train (10 a.m. on Sat.)
from London to Southampton (l*/* hr.), where they embark directly from
the wharf. The steamers then proceed to Cherbourg, to meet passengers
from Paris (special train at 9.20 a.m. ; 6V4 hrs.), and leave this port at 5 p.m.
Fares from $ 75, second cabin from $ 47.50. Southampton time is 4 hrs.
54 min. ahead of that of New York.
Southampton, see Baedeker's Great Britain. The steamer de-
scends Southampton Water and passes through the Solent, affording
a good view of the Needles to the left (lighthouse ; red flashing light).
The time of the voyage is reckoned from this point. To the right
is St. Albans Head. The steamer then crosses 1^ Cherbourg (see
GOODWIN SANDS. /. Route. 7
Baedeker's Northern France) and after leaving that port proceeds to
the W. through the English Channel. Start Point (white flashing
light) and Eddystone Lighthouse (one fixed and one flashing light),
in Plymouth Bay, are seen to the right. The last point seen of the
English mainland is Ldzard Head, in Cornwall, and the last European
land sighted is the SciUy Isles (lighthouse), about 30 M. to the S.W.
of the Land's End. — The rest of the voyage is similar to that de-
scribed in B. If.
i. From Hamburg to New Tork.
The ExpsBSS Stbaiuzbs of the Hamburg - American Lint ply to New
Tork ri& Soathampton and Cherbourg (7i/t^ days; from Southampton to
Cherbourg. 78 M., in 5 hrs.-, from Cherbourg to New York, 3027 M., in
6V2-7 days), and the Mail Stbamers run to New York direct (3505 knots,
in 10-11 days). Fare from London from $ 70, second cabin from $ 50.
The Express Steamers start from Cuxhaven, at the mouth of the Elbe,
68 M. from Hamburg, to which passengers are forwarded by special train,
while the other boats start from Hamburg itself (wharf at the Grosse
Grasbrook ; see Baedeier''s Northern Qermany). At Cuxhaven, Southampton,
and Cherbourg passengers embark by tenders. Passengers are carried be-
tween London and Southampton and between Paris and Cherbourg free of
charge, by special trains. New York time is 4 hrs. 54 min. behind that
of Southampton and 5 hrs. 35 mki. behind that of Hamburg.
The Hamburg- American Co. has also a regular line of emigrant-steamers
(Hansa Line) from Hamburg' and Antwerp to Canada. Emigrants from
Great Britain join the steamer at Antwerp.
On the SS. ^Amerika' and 'Kaiserin Augaste Victoria" the passengers
may be booked on the ^European plan\ receiving a rebate of $ 15-25 from
the regular fare and paying for their meals in *Ritz's Carlton Restaurant*
(B. or L. 75 c, D. $ 1).
Leaving Cuxhaven, the steamer steers to the N. W. , passing the
three Elbe Lightships and affording a distant view of the red rocks of
Heligoland to the right. Various other German, Dutch, and Belgian
lights are visible. The first English lights are those of the Galloper
Lightship and the Ooodwin Sands^ while the first part of the coast
to come in sight is usually near Dover. Farther on we pass through
the Straits of Dover, with the English and French coasts visible to
the right and left. The steamer of the direct service keeps on her
way through mid -channel, while the express-steamer hugs the
English coast, passes between the Isle of Wight and the mainland
(with Portsmouth to the right), and enters Southampton Water
(430 knots), where it generally anchors off Calshot Castle, to receive
the British mails and passengers from Southampton (see Baedeker s
Great Britain^ It next proceeds to Cherbourg (see Baedeker's
Northern France"), to take on additional passengers and mails. The
remainder of the route to New York is similar to that of R. lb.
j. rrom Bremen to New Tork.
The ExPBBss Stsambhs of the North German Lloyd (Norddeutteher
Lloyd) run to New York (3500 M., in 6V2-7 days) vi& Southampton and
Cherbourg, while the slower boats, calling alternately at Soathampton and
Cherbourg, take about 10 days. The steamers start from (40 M.) Bremer-
8 Route 1. CHANNEL ISLANDS.
Jutven^ at the mouth of the TTeier, to which passengen are forwarded by
special train. See Baedeker'^a Norfhtm Qermany. The 'Kaiser Wilhelm der
Zweite* of this line holds the record for the quickest passage firom Cherbourg
to New York (6 days, 12 hrs., 25min.) and vice versi (6 days, Shrs., 20 min.).
New York time is 5Vz l^rs. behind that of Bremen.
On leaying the mouth of the Weser, the steamer steers to the
N,W., with the Jahdebusen opening to the left. Farther on it passes
the Ecut Drisian Islands. The rest of the yoyage is similar to that
described in R. 1 h. Southampton is 460 M. from Bremerhaven.
k. rrom Havre to New Tork.
This route is followed by the French steamers of the Compagnii Qini-
rale Trantatkmtique. The distance is 3100 knots and the average time
6-7'/i days. New York time is 6 hrs. behind that of Havre.
Hawtf, see Baedeker's Northern France, The steamer steers out
into the English Channel^ affording distant views of Cape La Hague
and the Channel Islands to the left, and of the Scilly Isles to the
right The farther course of the voyage resemhles that of the German
steamers described in BB. li, 1 j.
L From Antwerp to New Tork vi& Dover.
This is the route of the Eed Star Une (3340^10 knots, in 8 days).
The steamers sail every Sat. and call at Dover. Fare from $ 66, second
cabin from $ 45. New York time is 6V4 hrs. behind that of Antwerp.
Antwerp^ see Baedeker's Belgium and Holland. The steamer
descends the West Scheldt, with the Dutch province of Zeeland on
either side, passes Flushing, on the island of Walcheren (right), and
enters the North Sea. In very clear weather the towers of Bruges
and Ostend may sometimes be distinguished to the left farther on.
Seyeral lightships are passed, and the first English land sighted is
the high chalk cliffs of the South Foreland. The course after the
call at Dover (see Baedeker's Oreat Britain) is similar to that of the
German steamers (see BB. li, 1 j).
m. rrom Botterdam to New Tork.
This is the route of the Holland- America Line^ sailing under the Dutch
flag (3280 knots, in 8-10 days). At low water the steamers start from the
Hook of Holland. They call at Boulogne. Fare from $66, second cabin
from $46.
Rotterdam, see Baedeker's Belgium ar^ HoUand, The steamer
descends the picturesque Maas for 2 hrs. and then crosses the North
Sea to (10-12 hrs.) Boulogne (see Baedeker's Northern France), The
rest of the yoyage is similar to that of B. 1 h.
n. From Glasgow to New Tork.
This is the route of the Anchor Line and of some boats of the AUan
Line (2920 knots, in 7V»-9 daysj from Moville, 2820 knots, in 7-8 days).
Passengers may join the steamer at Qlaseow, Oreenoek, or Moville. Fares
$ 65-125, second cabin $ STVs-^^Vt. The di£ference of time between Glaagow
and New York is 4V4 hrs. Some of the Allan Line steamers run io Boston.
Digitized by dOOQ IC
NAPLES. l.RouU, 9
From Glasgow to Tory Island^ see R. 1 c. The general couise
followed by the Glasgow steamers is considerably to the N. of that
of the Liverpool boats, not joining the latter before the Bari69 of
Newfoundland (p. 113).
0. From Copenhageni ChriBtiania, and Christiansand to New Tork.
The steamers of the Scandinavian-American Line ply from Copenhagen
to New York (3705 knots) in about U days, calling at (275 knots) Christiania
one day and at (165 knots) Christiansand two days after starting. ITew York
time is 5V2 hrs. behind that of Copenhagen and Christiania.
Copenhagen^ see Baedeker's Norway, Sweden, and Denmark. The
steamer steers up the Cattegat, with Denmark on the left and Sweden
on the right. At Christiania (see Baedeker's Norway'), at the head
of the piclnresque Christiania Fjord, It embarks passengers from
Drontheim, Stockholm, Gothenburg, etc. It then retraces its course
through the fjord and follows the coast of Norway to Christiansand,
where it is joined by passengers from Stavanger, Bergen, and the
W. coast of Norway. Leaying Christiansand, the steamer steers to
the W., round the N. coast of Scotland, passing through the PenUand
Firth and within sight of the Orkney Islands, Farther on it turns to
the S.W, and eventually joins the route described in R. 1 a, off the
Banks of Newfoundland.
p. From Genoa and Naples to New Tork.
The Itidian Royal Mail Steamehip Co. (NavigaHone Oenerale ItcUiana)
maintains, in conjunction with the steamers of La Veloce (Navigaeione ItaJiana
a Vapore), a weekly service on this route, while some of the other great
lines also despatch steamers to Italian por^ at more or less regular intervids.
The distance from Genoa to New York is 4500 knots (13 days), from Naples
to New York 4150 knots (12 days). New York time is 6 hrs. behind that
of Italy.
For the Italian ports, see Baedeker's Italian Handbooks. Leaving
Genoa, the steamers steer to the S., along the coast of Italy, to
Naples, They then turn towards the W., pass to the S. of Sardinia,
and proceed through the Mediterranean Sea to Gibraltar, Beyond
the straits, their course across the Atlantic to New York is slightly
to the N. of W. They pass within sight of the Mores.
2. From New Tork to Montreal.
a. Yi& Albany (or Troy), Saratoga, and Lake Champlain.
884 M. Nkw Yobk Gentbal & Hudson Bivbr Railsoad to (143 M.)
Albany in 2*/4-4 hrs.*, Dblawabb & Hudson Railhoad thence to (191 M.)
Rmtee'e Point in 6-6«/4hrs. ; Grand Trunk Railway thence to (60 M.l Montreal
in IVa hr. (through-express in 108/4-1274 hrs. ; through-fare $ 10.65, parlor-
car $2, sleeper $2; best views to the left as far as Albany, then to the
right). Luggage checked through to Montreal is examined by the custom-
house officers on arrival. — This is tiie shortest and most direct route
from New York to Montreal. Those who liave not seen the Hudson should
go by 8IBAM.E to Albany. ^^^^^^^^^ .,GoOgIe
10 BouU 2. NEW YORK.
The United States portions of this and the following routes are
given in the merest outline, and the reader is referred for greater
detail to Baedeker's United States.
New York. — Hotels. Below 14th St. : Lafayette- Brevoort House^ B.
from $2^ A$ior H<nue, R. from $ li/z; Broadway Central, from $ 2Vs, B. from
$ 1 ; St. Denis^ R. from $ 1 \ Lafayette (French), R. from $ 1, etc. — From
14th St. to 26th St. (incl. Union Sq. and Madison Sq.) : Fifth Avenue Hotel,
from $ 5t R. from $2^ Hoffmann House, R. from $2^ Everett House^ R. from
$ IV2; i^etff Amsterdamy R. from $ 1 ; Weatminater, from $3V2i R. from $ 1;
Albemarle, R. from $2, etc. — Above Madison Square: * Waldorf- Astoria,
R. from $21/2; * Holland House, R. from $2^ *St. Regis^ R. with bath from
$65 Knickerbocker, R, with bath from $ 21/2; Hotel Gotham^ R. with bath
from $4-, Belmont, close to Grand Central Station, R. from $2, with bath
from $3*, Hotel Astor^ R. from $2V2, with bath from $ S'/g; Savoy, from
$5, R. from $2) * Netherlands R. from $2^ Plaza, from $5, R. from $2*,
Majestic y R. from $2Y«; Buckingham, R. from $2; Manhattan ^ R. from
$2; Imperial, R. from $ 2; Murray Hill, from $4V2, R. from $ 1V«; Vendome,
R. from $2 5 Cadillacy Grand Union, R. from $1; *Park Avenue, from $3V»,
R. from $1; Marlborough, $ 3V2, R. $ IV2; and many others. — Boarding
Houses ($ 8-30 per week) and Furnished Lodgings ($ 4-15 per week) are
easily procured.
Elevated Railroads. The four Elevated Railroads of New York traverse
Second, Third, Sixth, and Ninth Avenues from end to end of Manhattan
Island. The uniform fare for any distance is 5 c. (children under five free),
and stations occur at frequent intervals. Trains run every few minutes
during the day, and on Third, Sixth, and Ninth Avenues also during the
night at intervals of 10 minutes.
Rapid Transit Railroad or New York Subway {Inlerborough Rapid Transit
Cb, 13-21 Park Row). An important addition to the transit-facilities of the
city is afforded by this underground electric railroad, opened in 1904. It is
21 M. in total length, and extends from City HaU to (14 M.) Kingshridge,
Spuyten Duyvil Creek, on the W. side of the city, and to (14 M.) Bronx Park
on the £. side. The uniform fare is 5 c. and there are frequent stations.
Express trains to 96th St. in 13 min., local trains in 21 minutes.
Tramways (mainly electric) traverse nearly all the avenues running
N. and S. and most of the important cross-streets (uniform fare 5 c.). The
cars nominally stop only at the upper crossings going up, and at the lower
crossings going down town. An omnibus (^stage'; fare 5 c.) runs from
Bleecker St. up Fifth Ave. to 89th St.
Carriages. The cab - fares of New York are high. Hackney Carriages
(1-4 pers.), usually with two horses, $ 1 for the first mile and 50 c. for
each i/s M. additional ; per hr. $ I'/z, each additional Vx hr. 75 c. ; waiting
40 c. per 1/4 hr. Cabs and Hansoms (1-2 pers.), 60, 25, $ 1, 60 c, 25 c. One
runk, not exceeding 50 lbs. in weight, free; extra luggage 25c. per piece,
hildren under eight years of age free. — The Pennsylvania and the Kew
York Central Railways have special cab-services at lower rates.
The Excursion Brakes, Automobiles, and Steam Yacht of the 'Seeing
New York' company afford an excellent method of making a first general
acquaintance with the city. Particulars on application at the office, Fifth
Ave. side of Flat-iron Building (p. 11).
Post Office, City Hall Park, open day and night, on Sun. 9-11 a.m. ;
d\BO ^b District Stations , iOD Sub -Stations (in druggists' shops), and in-
numerable letter-boxes. — Telegraph Messages may be sent from all the
chief hotels (to New York or Brooklyn 20 c. per 10 words, to other parts
of the United States 25c.-$l per 10 words, to Ontario or Quebec 40*;. per
10 words. Nova Scotia or New Brunswick 50 c, Manitoba 75 c, Nev .ound-
land $ 1.10, British Columbia $1-4^ to England 25 e. per word).
Theatres. New York contains 40-50 theatres, among the chief of which
are the Metropolitan Opera House, the Academy of Music, DalyU^ Madison
Digitized byCjOO^lC
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NEW YORK. 2, Route. 11
Square, New Anuterdam, Lyric^ Majestic^ Wallaek'ty New Lyceum^ Broadtoayy
Fifth Avenue^ and Casino. The Madison Square Garden and the Hippodrome
are also prominent places of amusement.
British Consul- General, Sir Percy Sanderson, C. M. 0., 17 State St.
New Yorkf the largest and wealthiest city of the New "World, with
31/2-4 million inhah. (3,437,400 at the census of 1900), is situated
on New York Bay, in 40® 42' 43" N. lat. and 74® 0' 3" W. long. It
now consists of the boroughs of Manhattan, The Bronx, Brooklyn,
Queens, and Richmond. Manhattan or New York proper, with about
2,000,000 inhab., consists mainly of the long and narrow Man-
hattan Island, which is bounded by the Hudson or North River on
the "W. and the East River on the E., while it is separated from
the mainland on the N. and N.E. by the Harlem River and Spuyten
DuyvU Creek. The older and lower part of the city, devoted almost
entirely to business, is irregularly laid out and contains many narrow
streets; but above 13th St. the streets are wide and laid out at right
angles to each other.
New York was founded by the Dutch in 1624 under the name of New
Amsterdam, and passed into English possession 50 years later. Greater
New York, as above described, was constituted in 1897.
The most important business-street of New York is Broadway,
which runs from Battery Park (with Aquarium'), at the S. end of
Manhattan Island, to (5 M.) Central Park (p. 12). Among the chief
buildings in or near it, enumerated from S. to N., are the large
new Custom HousOy at its S. extremity ; the huge Produce Exchange
(right); the Washington Building (left); the Exchange Court Build-
ing (right); the Manhattan Life Insurance Co. (r. ; *View from tower,
360 ft. high); Empire Building (left); * Trinity Church (1.; 1839-
46) ; the Union Trust Co. (r.) ; the Equitable Life Insurance Co. (r. ;
*View from the roof); St. PauVs Church (1.) ; St. Paul Building (1.);
the FOBt Office, the *City Hall, the Court House, the Park Row
Building (30 stories ; *View from towers, 387 ft. high), and several
large Newspaper Offices, all in City Hall Park (to the right) ; and
* Grace Church (r.; cor. of 11th St.). At 14th St. Broadway reaches
*TJnion Square, with its statues and fine shops ; and at 23rd St. it
reaches "'Madison Square, also embellished with statues and sur-
rounded by handsome hotels and other buildings, including the new
""Appellate Court House (cor. of 26th St.), and the curious Flat Iron
Building, at the point of junction of Broadway and Fifth Avenue.
Farther on, Broadway passes numerous theatres and hotels and
reaches Longacre Square, with the tall building (375 ft.) of the
New York Times, beyond which it is somewhat uninteresting.
Among the streets diverging from Broadway are Wall Street, the
Lombard Street of New York, with the Stock Exchange (10-3), the U. S.
Sub-Treasury,, and the Old Cvstom House; Liberty Street, with the *New York
Chamber of Commerce building, erected in 1903 j the husy Fulton Street; Fark
How, at^City Hall Park, leading \o Five Points and the Bowery; Astor Place
(r.), leading to the Mercantile Library^ the ^^ Astor Library, and the Cooper
Union; Foubteenth Street, a busy shopping-resort, with Tammany Hall;
and Twenty-Third Street, a more fashionable ahopping-resort, containing
12 Route 2. NEW YORK. From New York
the substantial building of ttie Yoimg Men's C?uHttian Association. — At Park
Bow starts the famous 'Brooklyn Suspension Bridfo, crossing the East
River in one main span of 1600 ft. (total length, incl. approaches, 5990 ft.)i
at a height of 136 ft. above high water. It commands a splendid *View of
New Tork, Brooklyn, and the Harbour. [Farther up the East River are
the WiUiamstntrff Bridge, completed in 1904, and the unfinished Manhattan
Bridge and BlackwelVs Island Bridge, all three notable structures.]
•Fifth Avenue, the chief street in New York from the etandpoiut
of wealth and fashion, runs from Washington Square to (6 M.) the
Harlem River (p. 13). Between 40th and 42nd Sts. is slowly rising
the new building of the •Kew York Public Library, which will be
one of the greatest architectural monuments of the city. Above 42nd
St Fifth Avenue consists almost wholly of fine private houses, dubs,
and cbuTches, including the Synagogue ofEmanU'El, the restaurants
of Delmonico and Sherry, the Dutch Reformed Church, *8t. Patrick's
Cathedral (B. C), the ^Varhderbilt Mansions, and the Fifth Avenue
Presbyterian Church, At 59th St.,where Fifth Avenue reaches Central
Park (see below), is a fine *Statue of Qtneral Sherman, by St. Gau-
dens. Between this point and 110th St. the avenue skirts the E.
side of the park, passing, among other handsome buildings, the
* Lenox Library, with its valuable collections of rare books and
MSS., pictures, and sculptures (adm. 9-6).
Other fine streets, running parallel with Fifth Avenue, are
*Madi8on Avenue and Park Avenue, the former vying with Fifth
Avenue as a residence-street and the latter containing many hand-
some charitable and educational institutions. The Tiffany House, at
the corner of Madison Ave. and 72nd St., is an interesting specimen
of curious yet beautiful architecture.
•Central Park, occupying the centre of Manhattan Island, covers
840 acres of ground and is very beautifully laid out. It is adorned
with numerous monuments, the most important of which is *Cleo^
pair a* s Needle, brought from Alexandria in 1877.
On the W. side of Central Park, between 77th and 81st Sts.,
stands the ^American Huseum of Natural History, a large build-
ing containing highly interesting collections (adm. daily, 9-5 j fee on
Mon. & Tues. 26 c).
The ^^Metropolitan Huseum of Art, on the £. side of Central
Park, opposite the 81st St. entrance and near Cleopatra's Needle
(see above), should be visited by every traveller in New York (adm.
daily, 10 to dusk ; on Mon. and Frid. 25 c. , at other times free \
also on Mon. & Frid., 8-10 p.m., and on Sun. afternoon).
Among the chief features of the museum are the Cesnola Collection of
Cyprian Antiquities; \Il& Ancient Pictures, including good examples of Rem-
brandt, Van Dyck, Frans Hals, Velazquez, Rubens, Van der Meer, and
Jacob van Ruysdael ', the Modern Paintings of the French (Meissonier, Detaille,
Corot, Rosa Bonheur, etc.), German, English, and American schools; the
Collection of Glass; an Etruscan Biga; the BoscorecUe Frescoes; and the
Musical Instruments.
The stately *Biverside Drive or Park, extending from W.
71st St to W. 127th St. (ca. 3 M.), commands plendmi views of
to Montreal, PLATTSBURG. 2. Route, 13
the Hudson. Here, opposite 89tli St., is the Soldien and Sailors
Monument, in the form of a small Greek circular temple of white
marble. Near the N. end of the Drive is the sumptuous Tomb of
General Vlyues 8, Grant, — Not far off are Momingside Heights^
with 8t, Luke^s Hospital and *Columbia University, one of the
leading colleges of America. — At the comer of Morningside Avenue
and 112th St. is the new Episcopal Cathedral ofSt. John the Divine,
the building of which has not advanced very far.
The visitor to New York, with a few days to spend, will find many
other objects of interest both in the city itself and in its environs (see
BaedekerU VMted States).
The train starts from the Grand Central Depot (42nd St.), crosses
the Harlem Rioer (p. 12), and runs to the W. to (11 M.) Spuyten
Duyvil, beyond which it skirts the E. bank of the fluc?«on (♦Views).
16 M. YoTikers; 26 M. Tarrytown; 31 M. Ossining, formerly Sing
Sing, with the large New York State Prison ; 41 M. PeekskUl; 69 M.
Fishkill; 74 M. Poughkeepsie , the seat of Vassar College; 116 M.
Hudson, Opposite rise the CatsTcills. At (142 M.) Rensselaer we
cross the Hudson.
143 M. Albany (*Ten Eyeh, New Kenmore, Stanwix Hall), the
capital of New York Stete, with (1900) 94,150 inhab. and a hand-
some * Capitol, — The train now follows the W. bank of the Hudson
to (159 M.) MechanicvUU, where we turn to the left (W.). — 180 M.
Saratoga Springs (United States, Grand Union, Congress Hall, Wind-
sor, Kensington, Worden, and many others), one of the most noted
inland watering-places in the United States, with about 30 saline
mineral springs (season, July and Aug.). — Beyond Saratoga the
train runs to the N.E., crossing the Hudson again at (197 M.) Fort
Edward, whence a railway runs to (14 M.) Caldwell, at the head of
Lake George, — 219 M. Whitehall, at the S. extremity of *Lake
Champlain» the W. bank of which we now follow. 241 M. Fort
Ticonderoga, the junction of a line to (6 M.) Baldwin, at the foot of
Lake George, and the starting-point of the Lake Ghamplain steamers.
At (269 M.) Port Henry the Adirondack Mts. are seen to the left.
270 M. Westport; 298 M. Port Kent, the junction of a line to the
(2 *M.) wonderful *Ausahle Chasm, — 306 M. Hotel Champlain
Station, for the large and finely fltted-up *Hotel (200 ft.; $5) of
that name, commandingly situated on Bluff Point, overlooking Lake
Champlain.
309 M. Plattsbnrg (Fouquet House), a town of about 8500 inhab.,
on the W. shore of Lake Champlain , is a convenient point for ex-
cursions on that lake and is also one of the gateways to the Adiron-
dacks. — Our line now leaves Lake Champlain and traverses a some-
what monotonous district. 319 M. West Chazy is the junction of an
alternative route to Montreal. ^^^^^^^^^ ^^ GoOglc
14 Route 2. BURLINGTON. From New York
At (334 M.)BonBe*B Point ( Windsor, $2V2-3), at the N. end of
Lake Champlain, we enter the Province of Quebec in the Dominion
of Canada (cnstom-house examination of hand-baggage). We now
run over the tracks of the Grand Trunk Railway, near the left hank
of the Richelieu y the discharge of Lake Champlain. The country
traversed is a flat alluvial plain.
357 M. St. John's (St. John's^ Windsor ^ Canada House, $2; Rail.
Restaurant; U.S. Consul, Mr. Chas. Deal), on the Richelieu, is a
quaint French-looking little town of (1901) 4030 inhab., with some
manufactures and a local trade in grain, produce, and lumber. It
was at one time of considerable importance as a fortified post com-
manding the line of approach by the Champlain Valley, and it was
one of the chief bases of supply for the troops of Carleton and Bur-
goyne in the campaigns of 1776-7. The grass-grown fortifications,
the old Colonial houses, and the large Lunatic Asylum contribute to
its picturesqueness. — 864 M. Lacadie; 372 M. Brosseau's; 376 M.
Golf Links ; 378 M. 8t, Lambert, the junction of three lines of rail-
way (G.T.R., Q.S.R., and C.V.R.). The train now crosses the
St. Lawrence by the Victoria Bridge (see p. 137) and sweeps round to
the left, passing the suburban stations of (381 M.) Point St. Charles
and (382 M.) St. Henri
384 M. Montreal (Bonaventure Station), see p. 125.
b. Yi& Troy, Rutland, and Burlington.
397 M. Kew York Central & Hudson River Railroad to (149 M.)
Troy in 4-5 hrs. 5 Boston & Maine R. R. thence to (90 M.) White Creek in
IVs hr. ; Rutland R. R. thence to (188 M.) St. John's in 6V2 hrs. ; Canadian
Pacific Railway thence to (30 M.) Montreal in 2/4 hr. (through-trains in
I2V2-I3 hrs. 5 fares, etc, see p. 9).
From New York to (142 M.) Rensselaer, see R. 2 a.
149 M. Troy {Fifth Avenue, $2V2-3; Mansion Ho., $2-21/2;
Windsor, R. from $1), a busy industrial city of (1900) 60,651 in-
hab., lies at the head of the steam-navigation of the Hudson, and
is an important railway-centre.
Our train here turns to the right (N.E.) and runs over the
Boston ^ Maine R. R. to (179 M.) White Creek. We then run towards
the N., with the Qreen Mts. at some distance to the right. 202 M.
Manchester, at the base of Mt. Equinox (3816 ft.)j 234 M. Rutland
(Rail. Restaurant), in the centre of the marble-quarries of Vermont.
Farther on, views of the Green Mts. are obtained to the right. —
301 M. Burlington {Van Ness House, $2-3), the chief city of Ver-
mont, with (1900) 18,640 inhab. and an immense lumber-trade, is
finely situated on the E. bank of Lake Champlain. The University
of Vermont here is attended by 600 students.
To the N. of Burlington the line crosses the beautiful islands of
Lake Champlain, with the aid of long embankments. 314 M. South
Hero; 318 M. Grand Isle ; 326 M. North Hero. Theiiue now returns
to Montreal. NEW HAVEN. 2. RouU. 15
to the mainland. 332 M. UU La Motte. At (;336 M.) AUmrgh hand-
baggage is examined by the Canadian custom-house officers. A little
farther on we enter Quebec and run along the E. bank of the Riche-
lieu (p. 14). 344 M. Noyan is the junction of the Grand Trunk
Railway to Ottawa and of the Quebec Southern Railway to St. Hya-
cinthe (see p. 141). 348 M. ClarencevUle (U. S. Con. Agent). At
(366 M.) IbervillCy the junction of a line to Quebec (p. 141), we
cross the Richelieu to (367 M.) St. John's (p. 14), where we join
the Canadian Pacific Railway. — Hence to —
397 M. Montreal (Windsor Street Station), see pp. 47, 48.
c. Yifc the Connecticnt Valley.
450 H. Ksw ToBK, New Haven, A Hartfobd Bailroad to (136 M.)
Springfield in S^At-lVs hrs.} Connecticut & Passdmpsic Division of the
Boston Sl Mains B.B. thence to (50 M.) South Vernon in 1V4-2 hrs. ; Central
Vermont B.B. thence to (10 M.) Brattleboro in 1/3 hr. ; Connecticut Biver
Division of the Boston & Maine B.B. thence to (64 M.) White River Junction
in IV4 hr. ^ Central Vermont B. B. thence to (163 M.) St. John's in 5^ hrs. ;
Grand Trunk Bailwat thence to (27 M.) Montreal in V«-l hr. (through-fare
$10.65; sleeper from Springfield $2; express from Kew York to Montreal
in 13i/4-15V« hrs.)-
The train starts from the Grand Central Depot (p. 13), crosses
the Harlem^ and farther on runs to the N.E., skirting Long Island
Sound. 28 M. Greenwich^ in Connecticut; 33^/2 M. Stamford; 66 M.
Bridgeport. — 73 M. New Haven (New Haven House; Rail. Restau-
rant)^ a city of (1900) 108,027 Inhab., is well known as the seat of
Yale University (3000 students). — 110 M. Hartford (*Allyn
House ; Rail. Restaurant), the capital of Connecticut, with (1900)
79,850 inhab., has a handsome *Capitol and other public buildings.
— 136 M. Springfield (Massasoit House; Worthy House), an in-
dustrial city of Massachusetts, with (1900) 62,059 inhab., is best
known for the rifles made in the V. S. Armoury here.
Our train now diverges to the left from the line to Boston and
ascends the beautiful ^Valley of the Connecticnt (views mainly to
the right). 144 M. Holyoke, with large paper-mills; 153 M. North-
ampton, the seat of Smith College (for women ; 1000 students) and
other well-known educational establishments ; 186 M. South Vernon;
196 m. Brattleboro. At (220 M.) BcMoio* Faito (Rail. Restaurant! we
cross the Connecticut, recrossing it at (246 M.) Windsor. — 260 M.
White River Junction (Rail. Restaurant) is the junction of an alterna-
tive route to Montreal via WelU River and Newport (see R. 3 c).
Our line (Central Vermont R.R.) ascends the picturesque ♦ Kaiie 2/
of the White River ^ which flows through the Green Mts. From
(325 M.) Montpelier Junction a short branch-line runs to Montpelier,
the capital of Vermont. — 335 M. Waterbury is a good centre for
excursions among the Green Mta. (Mt. Mansfield, CameVs Hump, etc.).
Farther on. Lake Champlain (p. 13) comes into sight on the left. —
357 M. Essex Junction; 381 M. -5ft. Albans (Rail. Restaurant) ; 393 M.
16 Route 2, UTIOA.
Highgate Springs. A little farther on we enter Quebec. Beyond
(405 M.) Staribridge fU. S. Con. Agent) we see the Rougemont
and Beloeil MU. (p. 136) to the right, rising as isolated masses from
a level plain. Crossing the wide Riehdieu (* Views to right and
left) at (423 M.) 8t. John's, we join the route described at pp. 13,
14 (G. T. R.),
450 M. Montreal (Bonaventore Station), see p. 125.
d. Yik TJtica and the Adirondackf.
470 M. Kbw Yobk Cbmtbal & HubsoM Biybb Bailroad in 12Vs-15 hrs.
(fares as in B. 2 a). — This ronte crosses the Adirondacks and forms a
convenient approach to many points in that district. Travellers inay also
approach Montreal during summer by steamer *Paul Smith' from BeauhaV'
nois^ descending the St. Lawrence through the Coteau, Cedars^ Split Eock,
Ccucade^ and Leukine Rapid* (comp. B. 47).
From New York to (143 M.) Albany, see R. 2a. We now turn
to the left (W.) and leave the Hudson. 146 M. West Albany; 160 M.
SchenSctady. We ascend the smiling * Mohawk Valley. 176 M.
Amsterdam; 217 M. Little Falls, in a romantic gorge ; 224 M. Her-
kimer.
At (238 M.) TJtica (Butter field; Rail. Restaurant) our line diverges
to the right from the Buffalo line and runs to the N.W., across the
W. side of the Adirondack Wilderness. 255 M. Trenton FaUs (Hotel
Trenton, $ S'), with a series of beautiful *Waterfalls, having a total
descent of 310 ft. 290 M. Fulton Chain^ the junction of a branch-
line to the Fulton Lakes ; 295 M. Clearwater, the junction of the
Raquette Railway for Raquette Lake and Blue Mountain Lake;
338 M. Childwold; 3451/2 M. Tupper Lake Junction , IV2M. from
Tupper Lake Village (AUamont, Iroquois, $ 2), the terminus of the
New York & Ottawa R.R.(p.l82)j 360 M. Saranac Inn Station. From
(363 V2 M.) Lake Clear a branch-line runs to (5 M.) Saranac Lake
and (16 M.) Lake Placid. 368 M. Paul Smith's; 380 M. Loon Lake,
At (405 M.) Malone the train crosses the Rutland R. R. and con-
tinues to run towards the N. Beyond (413 M.) Constable we enter
Canada. 419 M. Athelstan; 423 M. Huntingdon. At (435 M.) Valley-
field, a busy little industrial town (11,055 inhab. in 1901), we reach
the St. Lawrence, along the S. bank of which we now run to the
right. 448 M. Beauharnois (see above) j 456 M. Chateauguay, where
the French Canadian militia under De Salaberry gained an impor-
tant victory over the Americans in 1813 (battlefield marked by a
monument erected in 1895). At (461 M.) Adirondack Junction we
connect with the Canadian Pacific Railway.
470 M. Montreal (Windsor Street Station), see p. 125.
yGoogk
17
3. From Boston to Montreal.
a. Yifc Bntland and Bnrlington.
330 M. Boston & Maine Sailboad (FiTCHBtiBa Division) from Boston
to (lU M.) Bellows Fall* in 3V4-4 brs.; Rutland Railroad thence to (186 M.)
St. John's in 6>/4-7 hrs. -, Canadian Pacific Railway thence to (30 M.) Mont-
real in 8/4-1 lir. (through-fare $9; parlor-car $lVs) sleeper $2).
Bofton (ToMfatn«, Somertetj Vendome^ Brunswick^ Parker HousCj
YoungUj BellevuCy etc.), the capital of Massachusetts, the chief town
of New England, and one of the oldest (1630) and most interesting
cities in the United States, lies at the head of the beautifa *Ma88a'
chvaetU Bay, about 200 M. to the N.E. of New York. Pop. (1900)
560,892.
Among the sights of Boston which even the most hurried traveller
should take in are the State House^ the Old State Bouse, the Old South
Meeting House, Trinity Church, the Public Library , the Museum qf Fine
Arts, the Subway, the S7iau> Monument, and the Common. Those who have
a little more time should include the handsome residence-quarters of the
Back Bay, the new Christian Science Temple (1908), some of the picturesque
suburbs, and the neighbouring city of Cambridge, with Harvard University,
the oldest (1636), richest, and most famous of American seats of learning
(6000 students). Boston Harbour, with its numerous islands, is also well
worth seeing. — For details, see BaedeierU United States.
On leaving Boston, the train crosses the Charles, affording a view
(right) of Bunker Hill Monument, commemorating the battle of June
17th, 1775. — 10 M. Waltham, with cotton-mills and a large watch-
factory; 20 M. Concord (Thorean House, Colonial, $21/2), sacred
for its associations with Hawthorne , Emerson, and other men of
letters; 50 M. Fiichburg (Johnsonia, firom $2V2)» on the Nashua
River. Farther on, Mt Waehuaett (2108 ft.) rises to the S. Near
(82 M.) Troy (not to be confounded with the city mentioned at
p. 14), Mt. Monadnock (3186 ft.) is seen to the right. 92 M. Keene.
From (114 M.) Bellows Falls (p. 15) we run to the N.W. to (167 M.)
Rutland (p. 14) and (234 M.) Burlington (p. 14). Hence to —
330 M. Montreal (Windsor Street Station), see R. 2b.
b. Yi& Lowell and Concord.
385 M. Boston A Mainb Railroad to (145 M.) White River Junction
in 41/4-43/1 hrs.; Gbntbal Vermont Railroad thence to (163 H.) St John's
in 5-6 hrs.; and Grand Trunk Railway thence to (27 M.) Montreal in
■/4-I hr. (fares, see above).
Boston, see above. We cross the Charles and run towards the
N.W. 26 M. Lowell (St. Charles, Richardson, $3), the fourth city
of Massachusetts (pop. 94,969) and one of the chief industrial cities
of America (woollen goods, carpets, etc.) ; 39 M. Nashua (Tremont,
$ 2-2 V2 i Rail* Restaurant) j 56 M. Manchester (New Manchester House,
$21/j-3V2; Rail- Restaurant), a cotton - making city (56,987 in-
hab.); 74 M. Concord (Eagle, $272-472; RalL Restaurant), the
capital of New Hampshire (19,632 inhab.) and home of Mrs. Eddy.
145 M. White River Junction (Rail. Restaurant), and thence to —
335 M. Montreal (Bonaventure Station), see R. 2 c^ j
Babdrkeb^s Canada. 3rd Edit. Digit zed by V^OOglC
18 Routes. NEWPORT. From Boston
c. Yik Concord, FlymontlL, Wells Biver, and Newport.
843 M. Boston A Mains Railroad to (235 M.) Newport in T^/s-S hrs.*,
Canadian Pacific Railway thence to (108 M.) Montreal in 8V2-4Vs hrs. (fares,
see p. 17). — This route runs via Lake Winnipesauiee and also forms one
of the approaches to the White Mts. (views to the right.)*
Montreal may also be reached from Newport by the Grand Trunk
Railway via Starutead Junction ^ Mauawippiy Lennoxville^ and Bherhrooke
(comp. R. 4).
From Boston toii(74 M.) Concord^ see R. 3b. Our line now crosses
the Merrimac and runs towards the N. 104 M. Lakeport, at the head
of an inlet of *Lake Winnipesankee, is the junction of a line to
(17M.) Alton Bay^ one of the favourite resorts on that lake. Farther
on we skirt the W. bays of Lake Winnipesaukee. 109 M. Weirs is
another popular summering-place. 112 M. Meredith is 5 M. from
Centre Harbor^ perhaps the pleasantest point on Lake Winnipesaukee.
— 126 M. Plymouth {*Pemigewas8et Houses $ 3-4 ; meal-station) is
the starting-point of the line to (21 M.) North Woodstock^ at the S.
end of the *Franconia Notch ( White Mts,), Farther on, Mt, Moosi-
lauhe (4810 ft.) is conspicuous to the right. — 169 M. Wells River
(Rail. Restaurant), on the Connecticut, for lines to Montpelier (p. 15)
and the White Mts. Beyond (181 M.) Bamet we ascend along the
Passumpsic, crossing the stream repeatedly. — 190 M. 8t. Johns-
bury, the junction of lines to Fdbyans and the White Mts. (comp.
p. 19) and to Maquam, on Lake Ghamplain.
236 M. Newport (700 ft. ; Memphremagog House, $ 2-3 ; The Palace,
$1-11/2), a village with (1900) 3113 inhab., is prettUy situated at
the head (S. end) of Lake Memphremagog and is a good centre for
excursions. Good view of the lake from Prospect Hill, Jay Peak
(4018 ft.), 12 M. to the W., commands a wide prospect.
*Lake Hemphrem&gog ('beautiful water*; 682 ft.), a lovely sheet of
water, 80 M. long and 2-4 M. wide , lies one-fifth in Vermont and four-
fifths in CSanada. It is enclosed by rocky shores and wooded hills, and
its waters abound in lake-trout (8almo eon/inis), pickerel, perch, and bass.
A small steamer plies daily between Kewport (see above) and Magog,
at the K. end of the lake (there and back about 6-7 hrs.). Passing Indian
Point and the Ttoin Sitters, we cross the Canadian line near Province Island.
On the W. (left) shore we stop at (12 M.) the OvfVe Bead Hotel (3 2-3), at
the foot of the prominent Owl's Head (3270 ft.), which is ascended hence
in 2-2V2 hrs. The *View includes, on a clear day, Montreal and the Green,
White, and Adirondack Mts. Farther on, the steamer passes Long Island
and calls at some small landings. On the E. shore are the country-houaes
of several wealthy Montrealers, and on the W. rises Mt. Elephantus (Bevere
House). Oeorgeville (Lake Hall), on the E. bank, 20 M. from Newport, is a
quiet and inexpensive watering-place. — Magog (Pari House), at the K.
end of the lake, at its outlet through the Magog River^ affords good fishing
quarters and is connected by railway (C.P.K.) with (19 M.) Sherbrooke
(jp. -47). Mt. Orford (4500 ft.), 5 M. to the W., affords a good view of the
Canadian pine-forests to the K. and W.
Beyond Newport our line runs towards the N.W., following the
valley of the Missisquoi and entering Canada (Quebec) near (252 M.)
Mansonville. Beyond (268 M.) Glen Sutton we re-enter Vermont.
Jay Peak (see above) rises to the left. At (266 M.) Richford, the
junction of a line to St. Albans we turn to the N./and finally leave
Diaitized bv*
to Montreal, PORTSMOUTH. 3. Route, 19
Vermont. At (278 M.) Sutton Junction we again turn towards
the W., the line in a straight direction going on to St. OuiUaume
(see below) viSi Drummonduille (p. 140). — 300 M. Famham (Rail.
Restaurant), on the Yamaskay is the junction of lines to Stanbridge,
St. Guillaume, Foster (p. 47), Sherbrooke (p. 47), and Montreal via
Chambly (see below).
Fbom Farmham to Chamblt and Momtrbal, 39 M., Central Vermont
Railway in lV2-2«/4 bra. (fare $1.30). — Bevond (7 M.) 8t. Brigide Road
we see Sheford Mt. (p. 136) and Yamaska Mt. (p. 136) to the right, and
Monnoir or Ml. Johnson (p. 136) to the left. From (14 H.) Marieville a
branch-line runs to the right to (6 M.) Rougemont, at the foot of the hill
of that name, and to (9 H.) St. Cesaire. Kear (19 H.) Chaniblp Canton we
cross the Richelieu^ obtaining a good view of the 81. Louis Rapids. — 20 H.
Ohambly Basin, on an expansion of the Richelieu, was the site of one of
three forts erected by the Marquis de Tracy (p. 129) in 1665 to protect the
river against the Iroquois. This wooden fort was replaced in 1709 by a
stone fort, the ruins of which are seen to the right as the train leaves the
station. Chambly Fort was captured by the Continental troops in 1775,
apparently without resistance. Later it was regularly garrisoned, and in
1776-77 it formed one of the chief bases for the troops of Carleton and
Burgoyne. The fort was finally abandoned in 1838. Chambly contains a
bronze statue^ by L. P. Hubert (p. 131), of Col. de Saldberry^ who, at the
head of a body of Canadians, defeated an American force at Chateauguay in
1813. — 32V3 M. St. Lambert, and thence to (39 H.) Montreal, see p. 14.
The rest of the route to (313 M.) St. John's and —
348 M. Montreal (Windsor Street Station j p. 125) is the same
as that described in R. 16.
d. Yik Fortsmoath and North Conway.
865 M. Boston and Mains Railroad to TUO M.) North Conway in 5-5Vs
hrs. ; Mains Central Railroad thence to (50 M.) Lunenburg in 2V2-2V4 hrs. \
St. Johnsbdrt & Lakb Chauplain Railroad thence to (22 M.) St. Johns-
bury in Vi'l hr. ; Boston A Mains Railroad thence to (44 M.) Newport in
lV2-2hrs.; Canadian Paoifio Railwat thence to (109 M.) MontrecH in
4-4V2 hrs. (through-fare $ 9). — This line forms the shortest and quickest
approach to the White Mts. and is also one of the regular routes to Lake
Winnipesaukee.
Boston, see p. 17. The line crosses the Charles and runs to the
N., near the sea. 11^2 M. Lynn; 16 M. Salem, a qnaint old New Eng-
land town, the scene of the 'Witchcraft Delusion' of 1692; 18 M.
Beverly, the junction of a line to Manchester, Gloucester, and other
points on the beautiful ''North Shore"*; 37 M. Newburyport; 46V2M.
Hampton, for Hampton Beach ; .49 M. North Hampton, for Rye Beach,
57 M. Portsmouth (^Rockingham, from $ 4), a quaint old seaport
with 10,637 inhab. and a government navy-yard. The peace be-
tween Russia and Japan was concluded here on Sept. 5th, 1905. —
At (67 M.) Conway Junction our line diverges to the left (W.).
80 M. Rochester. From (98 M.) Sanbomville a line runs to (12 M.)
Wolfeborough , on Lake Winnipesaukee (p. 18). Farther on the
Ossipee and Sandwich Mts. are seen to the left. 135 M. Conway. —
140 M. North Conway (*Kearsarge House, $ 3-6), a favourite resort
on the S. margin of the White Mts., one of the most picturesque
and frequented districts in New England. To the left rises Moat
2*
20 Route 4. NORTH HATLEY.
Mt,^ to the right Mt. Kearsargt. — From (145 M.) Glm Station
coaches run to (3 M.) Jackson. Beyond (158 M.) Bemis the line
bends to the N.W. and enters the famous * Crawford or White
Mt. Notch , a narrow defile flanked by lofty mountains. 165 M.
*Crawford Home (from $ 472)» a favourite resort at the other end of
the Notch. 169 M. Bretton Woods, the station for the large * Mount
Washington Hotel (from $ 5). At (170 M.) Fabyan's (Fabyan House,
from $4^2) we connect with the railway to the summit of *Mt.
Washington (6293 ft.), the highest mountain in the United States
to the E. of the Rockies and N. of Garolina. 173 M. Zealand^ the
junction of the line to BetJdehem and the Profile Howe,
At (180 M.) Quebec Junction the Quebec (Upper Goos) Division
of the Maine Central R.R. diverges to the right, connecting with the
Canadian Pacific Railway at Cookshire Junction (p. 46*) and with
the Quebec Central Railway at DudsweU Junction (p. 21).
From Quebec Junction our line goes on to (187 M.) Scott Junc-
tion, (1^0 M,) Lunenburg, and (^i^M.^St.Johnsbury. Thence to —
365 M. Montreal (Windsor Street Station), see R. 3 c.
4. From New York to ftnebec yi& Springfield.
547 H. Kbw Toek, Kew Haven, Sl Habtford Bailboad to (136 M.)
Springfiad in SVa-iVa brs. \ Boston & Mains R. E. thence to (110 M.) Windior
in 4 hrg. ; Gbntbal Vbemont S. E. thence to (14 H.) White River Junction
in Vs hr. ; Boston A Mains R. B. thence to (145 M.) Sherhrooke in 5Vs brs. ;
Qubbbo Gbntrai. Railway thence to (142 M.) Quebec in 5 hrs. (in all
19-20 hrs. 5 throngh-fare $ 12 5 sleeper from Springfield $ 272)-
Passengers may also proceed to Quebec via Boston (see R. 5).
From New York to (260 M.) White River Junction, see R. 2 c.
Beyond White River Junction we continue to follow the Connec-
ticut River to (301 M.) Wells River. Thence to (367 M.) Newport,
see R. 3 c.
Our line now diverges from the route to Montreal and bends
towards the N.E. A glimpse of Lake Memphremagog (p. 18) is seen
to the left. We enter Canada, 372 M. Stanstead Junction (Canadian
custom-house), for a short line to (4 M*) Stanstead (U.S. Agent)
with a Wesleyan college (300 students); 375 M. Smith's Mills;
379 M. Libby's Mills; 384 M. Ayers Flats; 386 M. Massawippi. —
393 M. North Hatley (*Glen Villa, 3 M. from the rail, station,
from $ 3; boarding-houses of Nelson Le Baron, McKay, Miss May,
and others, from $ 7 a week), pleasantly situated on Lake Massawippi
(14 M. long), a small village with about 300 inhab., is now much
visited in summer. Its attractions include beautiful drives round
the lake, canoeing, fishing, and an excellent golf-course. — 397 M.
Capelton. — 402 M. Lennoxville, see p. 47.
405 M. Sherhrooke , see pp. 47, 19. We here cross the Can.
Pacific Railway and reach the lines of the Quebec Central Railway,
which we follow to Quebec. Most of the country traversediis heavily
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROCHESTER. 6, Route, 21
timbered and scantily peopled. — 415 M. Ascot; 421 M. East Angus.
At (429 M.) Dudswell Junction (Rail. Restaurant) we connect with
the Maine Central Railroad (comp. p. 20). 432 M. Marhletonj with
lime-pits and marble-quarries; 441 M. Weedon; 462 M. Oarthby,
on Lake Aylmer; 462 M. Colerairie. — 470 M. Thetford^ with famous
asbestos-mines, the largest of which (^Bell's Mine') has an area of
several acres and reaches a depth of 160 ft. The processes of quar-
rying and preparing the asbestos are interesting. — Numerous char-
acteristic French villages are passed, with red-roofed houses and
prominent churches. From (499 M.) Tring Junction a line runs to
(60 M.) Megantic (p. 46) and from (503 M.) Beauce Junction another
runs to (16 M.) Beauceville. Our line now for a time follows
the valley of the ChaudilrCj the route by which Benedict Arnold
reached Quebec in 1775 (p. 147). 626 M. St, Anselme, in the
Etchcmin Valley; 641 M. Harlaka Junction (p. 96). From (646 M.)
Levis passengers are ferried across the 8t, Lawrence to (547 M.)
Qfuhec (see p. 141).
5. From Boston to ftnebec.
417 H. Boston & Mains R.R. to (275 M.) 87uirhroohe in 10-11 hrs.*,
Qdbbbo Ckntbal Railway thence to (142 M.) Qitaee in 5V4-10 lirs. (in
all 16-21 hrs. \ throagh-fare $ 11 \ sleeper $ 2).
From Boston to (235 M.) Newport ^ see R. 3c; thence to
(417 M.) Quebec, see R. 4.
6. From New York to Toronto.
531 H. Kew Tobk Cbntbal &, Hudson Riveb Railboad to (446 M.)
Niagara Falls in 9-I6V2 hrs. ; Gband Tbunk Railway thence to (85 H.)
Toronto in 2V«-3 hrs. (in all 12-20 hrs.; through-fare $ 11.85; sleeper $3).
Alternative routes to Niagara Falls are offered by the Weit Shore, the
Delaware^ Lackawanna^ A Western, the Erie, and the Lehigh Valley Rail-
ways, all of which are described in Baedeker's United States. A pleasant
alternative route from Niagara Falls to Toronto is afiforded by the steamer
across the Lake of Onturio (see p. 205).
From New York to (238 M.) Vtica, see R. 2d. — Our line con-
tinues to run towards the W. 262 M. Some. Beyond (291 M.) Syracuse
(^The Yates, $4-5, R. from $1} Rail. Restaurant ;ipoi^. 108,374), to
the left of the railway, we see the steel lowers' of the aluminum
cable bringing power (90,000 horse-power) to that city from Niagara
Falls. 349 M. Palmyra. At (371 M.) Eochester (*Powers Hotel, from
$ 3 ; Rail. Restaurant; 162,608 inhab.) the direct railway to Niagara
Falls diverges from the line to Buffalo (p. 216) and runs vi4 (427 M.)
Lockport and (444 M.) Suspension Bridge. Through-passengers to
Toronto, who do not want to stop at Niagara, proceed across the
bridge into Canada (small articles of baggage examined). The route
from Suspension Bridge to (83 M.) Toronto is described, in the
reverse way, at pp. 209-211.
For Niagara Falls, see p. 215. ^^^^^^^^^ ^^ GoOglc
22
7. From Boston to the Maxitime Provinces by Sea.
The following routes are largely nsed In summer, especially by
those who are fond of the sea. Round Trip Excursion Tickets are
issued at moderate rates by all the companies, acting in connection
with the railways of the Maritime Provinces and offering a great
variety of routes. Full information as to these is furnished on ap-
plication. The data below refer to the service of 1906 and are, of
course, liable to alteration. See the advertisements in the daily
papers or apply to the steamboat-companies.
Lovers of the sea may also go all the way from New Tori to the Mari-
time Provinces hy steamer, either via the Dominion Atiantic Railway^s hoat to
Yarmouth (see p. 23) or by the Red Cross Line to Halifax (50 hrs. ; fare $ 16-20.
including stateroom-berth). The latter steamer (starting from Pier B, foot
of Richards St., Brooklyn) goes on to St. John's, IJewfoundland (comp. p. 102).
a. rrom Boston to Ea4itport and St. John.
320 M. Stkameks of the Eastern Steamship Co. (International Division)
ply 1-6 times weekly (ace. to the season) to (260 M.) Eastport in 16-17 hrs.
(fare $4.76) and to (320 M.) St. John in 18-20 hrs. (3 6; stateroom $1-6;
meals k la carte). The steamers sail from Union Wharf, those for St. John
direct at noon, and those calling at Portland (p. 24) and Eastport at 9 a.m.
Baggage is examined by the custom-house officers on board the steamer,
between Eastport and St. John. The latest information should be obtained
from the agents of the company (Union Wharf and 293 Washington St.,
Boston) or from the daily papers. The steamers are comfortable and well-
equipped, especially the 'Calvin Austin' of the direct line.
Railway Route from Boston to St. John^ see p. 24. Eastport is also
reached by following this route to St. Andrews (p. 42), and thence by
steamer down the St. Croix (p. 43).
Boston^ see p. 17. The pleasant sail through Boston Harhour
i described in Baedeker^s United States, to which reference is also
made for the route from Portland to Eastport. The direct steamer
(see above) soon passes out of sight of land, and it is only on the
longest days of summer that the coast of Maine becomes dimly
visible to the left before nightfall. Grand Manan (p. 45) , with
its fine cliffs, is passed in the dark. When the tide serves, the
steamer reaches Eastport by the Narrows, between Luhec on the left
and the island of CampoheUo (p. 44) on the right. At the entrance
of this channel is Quoddy Head Light (1.), marking the E. limit of the
United States. When the tide is unfavourable, we pass outside Oampo-
bello and approach Eastport from the E., Yrith Deer Island to our right.
Lubec iHillside House, $ 2-3; Merchants^ Hotel, $ 2), at which the steamers
call in summer both going and coming, is a pleasant little watering-place.
The Toung Men's Christian Associations of New England hold encampments
at (7 M.) North Lubec (Kemattano, $272-3) in summer.
260 M. Eaftport (^Quoddy House, $2-3), the easternmost settle-
mentin the United States, with (1900) 6311 inhab. and an abandoned
fort, is finely situated on an island in Pa^samaquoddy Bay, connected
with the mainland by a bridge. Passengers for CampoheUo (p. 44),
Grand Ma/nan (p. 45) , St. Andrews (p. 42) , and points on the
St. Croix (p. 48) leaye the steamer here. omze6^yGoOg\e
CAPE SABLE. 7. BouU, 23
After lying for about V2 ^'' &^ Eastport, the steamer once more
heads for theE. , crosses the neck of Passamaqnoddy Bay, and ascends
through the Bay of Enndy, noted for its strong tides and currents
(comp. p. 76). The coast of New Brunswick is in sight to the left
all the way to St. John (3 hrs.). As we enter St. John Harbour,
Partridge lalandy with its lighthouse, fog- whistle, and quarantine
station, lies to the right, while the roofs and spires of West End
(^Carleton; p. 32) are seen to the left. Our steamer threads its way
amid the shipping of the busy lumbering port and lies to at Beed''8
Point Wharf (Plan of St John, D 3). St. John makes a parti-
cularly picturesque effect as seen from the water.
320 M. St. Jolm, see p. 27.
b. I^om Boston to Tarmonth.
230 M. Stsambiis of the Dominion Atlantic Railway ply daily in sum-
mer, except Sat., in 15 hrs., leaving Long Wharf, Boston, at 2 p.m., and
reaciiing Yarmouth (Lower Wharf) about 7.80 a.m. next day (fare $ 4 ; state-
room 3 IVs-^) meals 76 c.). These steamers, which are fine boats with twin
screws and electric lighting, make direct connection with the Digby and
Halifax trains of the Dominion Atlantic Railway (see RR. 20^ 22). Through-
tickets sold to all important points in the Maritime Provinces and 17ew-
foundland. Agent, /. F. Matter i^ Long Wharf, Boston. — Baggage is exam-
ined by the custom-house officers on the wharf at Yarmouth.
This company also maintains a direct weekly service by sea between
Neu> York and Yarmouth, the steamer 'Prince Arthur* leaving the former
port (Pier 14, East River) on Sat. at 11 a.m. and reaching Yarmouth on
Sun. evening (fare $16; stateroom from $2).
Boston and Boston HarhoWy see p. 17. On passing Boston Light,
the steamer steers in an E. N. E. course and soon loses sight of
land. Early risers will obtain a good view of Yarmouth while sailing
up the harbour.
230 M. Tarmonth, see p. 80. Connection is made here with
the Dominion Atlantic and the Halifax & South-Westem railways,
with coaches to various points not accessible by railway, and with
steamers to Barrrngton, Shelbume, Lockeport, Lunenburg^ Halifax^
and St. John (comp. pp. 28, 80, 81).
c. rrom Boston to Halifax.
390 M. Stsaubss of the Canada Atlantic d: Plant Steamship Co. in 29 hrs.,
leaving Boston (Commercial Wharf) 2-8 times weekly in summer (June-Sept.)
and once a week in winter (fare 3 7, including berth; stateroom -berth
$1-2*, meals 60-75 c). Through-tickets sold to all important points in the
Maritime Provinces. — The boat leaving Boston at noon on Tues. goes
on from Halifax (at 8 p.m. on Wed.) to (570 M.) HawkeOmry (p. 62 j through-
fare $ 9-, stateroom-berth $2) and (660 H.) Charlottetown (p. 98; through-
fare $10; stateroom-berth $2-3). Baggage is examined on arrival at the
wharf. General Manager, A. TT. Perry , Commercial Wharf, Boston.
On leaving Boston Harbour (p. 17), the steamer heads to the
E.N.E. and soon loses sight of land. The first points of Nova Scotia
sighted (to tho left) are Seal Island and then Cape Sable. Beyond
this point the steamer skirts the ragged S.E. coast of the>peninsula.
Digitized by VjOO
24 Routes. BANCfOR.
wMch is generally visible to the left (comp. R. 21). After passing
Cape SanibrOf we enter Halifax Harbour between the lights of Che-
hucto Head (1.) and Devil Island (r.). A little farther on we pass to
the W. (1.) of Macnab'8 Island (p. 56) and Oeorge^s Island (p. 66)
and draw up at the Halifax Wharf (p. 50). The views as we ascend
the harbour are very fine (comp. p. 56).
For the steamboat-route from Halifax to Hatokethury^ Fietou^ and Char-
lottetownj see p. 63.
8. From Boston to St. John by Eailway.
448 M. Boston A Hums Railboad to (108 M.) Portland in 3 hrs.: Maimb
Central Railroad thence to (250 M.) Vane^oro in 6-8 hrs. ; Canadian Pacific
Railway thence to (90 M.) St. John in 3-3V4 hrs. (throagh-express in 14-
16 hrs. ; fare $8.60; sleeper $2723 parlor-ear $2). — In summer throagh-
cars run from Boston to Point du Chine (p. 87), connecting with the steamer
to Prince Edward Island (comp. p. 97).
For details of the United States portion of this route, see Baedeker**
United States.
Bottonj see p. 17. The trains start from the North Station, —
11^2 M. Lynn; 13 M. Swampacottj 16 M. Salem; 18 M. Beverly ^
the junction of a branch-line to Gloucester and Bockport; 37 M. iVcio-
huryport; 57 M. Portsmouth (see p. 19); 83 M. Kennebunk; 92 M.
Biddeford; 93 M. Saco, these ty^o on the Saco River; 97 M. Old
Orchard Beach.
108 M. Portland (^Lafayette, Congress Square, Falmouth House,
Preble House, $3-5), the largest city in Maine, with (1900) 50,145
inhab., is finely situated on a hilly peninsula projecting into Ca^co
Bay, The poet Longfellow (1807-82) was a native of Portland, and
the house in which he was bom and that in which he afterwards
lived are among the sights of the town.
Some of the trains between Bo.ston and Portland run by the so-caUed
'Western Division', vi& Andover, Lawrence, Haverhill, and Dover.
138M. Bmnswick (Brunswick House, $ l-lt/2} Rail, Restaurant),
a town of (1900) 6806 iuhab., at the head of the tidal waters of the
Androscoggin, is the seat of Bowdoin College (360-400 students). —
159 M. Iceboro, with huge ice-houses.
171 M. AxigXLBt& (Augusta House, Cony House, $2-3), the capital
of Maine, with (1900) 11,683 inhab. and a fine State House, lies
on both sides of the Kennebec. — Beyond Augusta we follow the
Kennebec to (190 M.) Wateroille. — 218 M. Newport is the junction
of a railway to Dexter, Dover, and Moosehead Lake (p. 46).
245 M. BsLRgOT (Bangor House, $2V2-4; Penobscot Exchange,
from $2; Rail, RestaurarU), an important lumber-trading town,
with (1900) 21,850 inhab., at the head of navigation of the
Penobscot River, is more fully described in Baedeker's United States,
It is the junction of a branch - railway to (60 M.) Mt. Desert
(see Baedeker's United States). — 269 M. Oldtown; 277 M. Passa-
dumkaeg, ^ y
Digitized by VjOOQIC
GORHAM. ' 9. Route. 25
At (301 M.) McUtawamkeag (comp. p. 46) we cross the Penobicot
(p. 46) and join the 0. P. R. line from Montreal to St. John (R. 16).
For the next 55 M. the line passes through a wild and sparsely
settled region, at first following the Mattawamkeag River,
368 M. Yanceboro (Rail, Restaurant) is the frontier-station,
where the hand-baggage of passengers from the United States is
examined. The time changes here from the 'Eastern' to the 'Atlantic'
standard (one hour in advance ; comp. p. xil). — Beyond Vanceboro
station we cross the St. Croix and enter New Brunswick (p. 36). —
From (366 M.) McAdam Junction (*McAdam Station Hotel, from
$2y2» nieal 75 c.) lines run to the N. to Woodstock and to the S. to
8t, Andrews,
Faou HgAdau Jdnction to Woodstock, 62 M., C.P.R. in 2-3 hrs. —
The train runs to the K. throngh a wooded district. 22 M. Canterbury^
near Skiff Late, with its landlocked salmon. Farther on we cross the £el
River. From (40 M.) Debec Junction a branch-line runs to (8 M.) HoulUm^ a
small town in Maine. About 6 M. farther on we come in sight of the St. John^
of which we have views to the right. — 62 M. Woodstock, see p. 40.
Fbou HcAdam Junction to St. Stkphbn (34 M.) and St. Andrews
(43 M.), C.P.R., in lV4-274hrs. — This line runs towards the S , through a
dreary and featureless district. At (14 H.) Wait Junction it forks, the right
branch running to (34 M.) St. Stephen (p. 43) and the left to (42 M.)
St. Andrews (p. 42).
375 M. Magaguadavic (pron. *Magadavy'), on a lake of the same
name. About 8 M. to the S. of (385 M.) Harvey lies Lake Oromocto,
an angling-resort. From (386 M.) Fredericton Junction a line runs
to the N. to (22 M.) Fredericton (comp. p. 38). The remaining sta-
tions are unimportant. As we near St. John the line skirts the *Long
Reach' of the 8t, John River (1. ; comp. p. 34) for some distance,
and we finally enter the city by a fine cantilever bridge, crossing
the river just above the Suspension Bridge (p. 32).
448 M. 8t. John, see R. 10.
9. From Portland to Montreal and ftnebec.
a. Yik the Grand Trunk Bailway.
Grand Tbunk Railway to (297 M.) Montreal in 10V2-12 hrs. (fare $7Vsi
drawing-room car $iY2, sleeping-herth 32); to (318 M.) Quebec in 11-14 hrs.
(fares $8Vs, $2). This route forms a pleasant approach to Canada, skirt-
ing the K. margin of the White Mts. (p. 19; views to the left). From
Boston to Canada by this route takes 3-4 hrs. more.
Portland, see p. 24. — The train crosses the Fresumpscot River
and intersects the Maine Central R.R. at (11 M.) Yarmouth. As far as
(27 M.) Danville Junction the Maine Central R.R. (see p. 26) runs
parallel to our line (left). Beyond (62 M.) BryanVs Pond (700 ft.)
we enter a mountainous district. 70 M. Bethel (1000 ft.). We now
obtain views of the White MU. (p. 19) to the left. — 91 M. Oorham
(860 ft. ; * Alpine House; meal-station) is the chief gateway to theWhite
Mts. from the N. — We now follow the Androscoggin. Picturesque
26 Route 9. FRYEBURG.
scenery. 98 M. Berlin; 134 M. North Stratford. 149 M. Island
Pond (1500 ft. ; Stewart House, $ 2; Rail. Restaurant) is the American
frontier-station (hand-baggage examined). At (165 M.) Norton Mills
we enter Canada and begin to descend the Coaticooke, 174 M. Coati-
cooke (U.S. Consul). — 193 M. LermoxvUle (see p. 47) is the junc-
tion of the Passumpsic Division of the Boston & Maine R.R., and
(196 M.) Sherbrooke (p. 47) is the junction of the Canadian Pacific
Railway to Lake Megantic^ Moosehead Lake^ and St. John fR. 16). —
We now follow the St. Francis to (221 M.) Richmond (p. 141), where
our line forks, the left (main) branch running to (76 M.) Montreal
(see R. 29 b) and the right to (97 M.) Quebec (see R. 29 b).
b. Yi& the Maine Central Bailroad.
Railway to (286 M.) Montreal in 12-16 hri. (fare $7Vf, parlor-car $ IV*,
berth $2); to (321 M.) Quebec in W/t hrs. (fare $81/2; parlor -car $ IV*)-
This line traversea the centre of the White Hta. (seats to the right} ob-
servation-cars attached to the trains in the mountain-district). Through
parlor and sleeping cars run from Portland to Montreal and Quebec.
Portland^ see p. 24. The train starts from the Union Station,
crosses the Presumpscot twice, and runs towards the W. 17 M. Se-
bago Lake\ 50 M. Fryeburg. 60 M. North Conway y and thence to —
286 M. Montreal (Windsor Street Station), see R. 3d.
The train to (321 M.) Quebec (p. 146) diverges at (100 M.)
Quebec Junction (p. 20) and runs vil Lancaster^ Colebrook, Cookshire
Junction (p. 46), and Dudswell Junction (p. 21).
yGoogk
yGoogk
yGoogk
n. NEW BRUHSWICK.
Route Page
10. St. John 27
Environs of St. John 33
11. From St. John to Fredericton 33
a. By River 33
Waahademoak Lake. Grand Lake 85
Excursions from Fredericton 88
b. By Railway 38
12. From Fredericton to Woodstock 39
a. By Railway 39
b. By River 39
13. From Woodstock to Grand Falls and Edmundston . . 40
The Tobique 40
From Grand River to the Restigouche 41
14. From St. John to St. Stephen and St. Andrews ... 41
a. By Railway 41
b. By Steamer 42
15. Gampobello and Grand Manan 44
a. Gampobello ,...■. 44
b. Grand Manan 46
16. From St. John to Montreal 46
Moosehead Lake 46
17. From St. John to Quebec (L^vis) 48
From Salisbury to Albert 48
10. St. John.
Arrival. The Intsbgolonial Station (PI. E, 2-, Rail. Resiawan()y also
nsed by the C. P. R. and other lines entering St. John, lies at the N. end
of the city, '/a-Va ^* ^^^^ the chief hotels. The New Brunswick Southern
Line for St. Stephen (B. 14) has its terminus at West End^ formerly Carleton
(comp. pp. 32, 41). — The Transatlantic steamers land in winter at Sand
Point (PI. C, 3), on theW. side of the harbour, but in summer, most of them,
like the Boston and Digby boats, land at Reed^s Point (PI. D, 3); the steamers
for Eastport and Grand Manan (R. 15) land at TumbuWs Wharf (PI. D, 2). —
Cabs (see below) meet the chief trains and steamers.
Hotels. *BoTAL (PI. b; E, 2), King St., perhaps the best hotel in
the Maritime Provinces, $3-4; Duffsbin Housb (PI. a; E, 3), Char-
lotte St., cor. of King Sq., from $2.50; Victobia (PI. c-, E, 2, 3), 21 King
St., $ 2V2-3; Nbw Victobia (PI. d; D, 3), 342 Prince William St., $2-2»/2 ;
Clifton (PI. e; D, 3), Princess St., cor. of Germain St., $2-2V2; Pabk
Hotel (Pl. fj E, 3), 47 King Square, $2-2Vj; Cabvbll Hall (PI. g; E, 2),
71 Waterloo St., an excellent private boarding-house.
Tramways (electric) traverse the chief streets and run via Indiantoum
(p. 33) and Douglas Ave. to the Reversible Falls (p. 32) and Seaside Park
(p. 32), and via Paradise Row to Rockwood Park (p. 33); uniform fare 5 c.
Oabs. Per drive within the city, 1 pers. 30 c., each addit. pers. 25 c.;
per 1/2 hr. 50 c.; ordinary luggage free.
Observation Oars (automobiles and buckboards), calling at the hotels
about 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., make a round trip of 2 hrs. yitk Rockwood Park,
Mt. Pleasant, the Falls, the MartelloTower, and the West End Ferry (fare 50 c.).
28 Route 10. ST. JOHN Situation.
Steamers. Fert*y Steamers ply every >/4 hr. from the foot of Princess St.
(PI. D, 2) to West End {Carleion; fare 2 c.). — River Steamers^ starting from
Jndiantoton (beyond PI. D,l), run to FredeHcton and intermediate points (see
B. 11); to points on the Kennebecasis (p. 34); to BelleUle Bay (p. 34); to
Washademoak Lake (see p. 86); to Hampton (p. 48); and to Orand Lake
(p. 35). — Sea-going Steamers run to Eastporty Portland, and Boston' (Bee
E. 7a); across the Bay of Fundy to Digby (R. 20a); to Yarmouth (p. 80),
Halifax (p. 50) , and other I^ova Scotia ports (every Thurs. at 6 p.m.) : to
Orand Manan (p. 45) ; to Parrshoro (p. 85) and Kingsport (p. 74) ; to Jfew
York (p. 10); to London; to Anttoerp; and to various other ports.
Places of Amusement. Opera House (PI. E, 2), 203 Union St. — Concerts,
etc., are given at the York Theatre (PI. E, 2), Carleton St., West End City
Hall (PI. B, 2), and Union Hall, North End (Portland). — Shamrock Club
Grounds, near Port Howe (p. 31); St. John Club Athletic Grounds, in the
E. part of the city. — Skating Rinkt, Queen Square and City Boad; St.
Andrew/* $ Curling Club (PI. D, 3), Charlotte St.; ThistU Curling Club, Gold-
ing St. (PI. F, 2). — Moosepaih Trotting Park, see p. 33. — Union Club,
Germain St. (PI. D, 3). — St. John Qolf Club (PI. P, 1), just to the N. of
the town.
Oonsuls. United States, Mr. Qebhard Willrieh; German, Mr. Robert
Thomson ; French Consular Agent, Mr. Conrad de Bury ; Italian, Mr. Charles
McLachlan; Austrian and Scandinavian Vice-Consul, Mr. P. W. Thompson.
Tourist Information Bareaa, 85 Prince William St. (literatore, maps,
and information gratis).
Post Oface (PI. D, 2), Prince William St. (open from 6.30 a.m. to 9 p.m.;
Money Order Office 9-4).
8t. John, the largest city and commercial centre of New Brun-
swick and one of the most important ship-owning cities of Canada,
is picturesquely situated in 45^14' 6" N. lat. and 66^3' 30" W. long.,
at the point where the River St. John pours its waters into the Bay
of Fundy. The population in 1901 was 40,711, giving it the eighth
place among the cities of the Dominion. The main part of the
city, which is well built of red brick and regularly laid out, lies
on the E, side of the harbour, but the thriving suburb of West End
or Carleton (p. 32) is situated on the W. side. The site of the city
is a rocky and ridgy peninsula, through which streets could be cut
and levelled only by dint of prodigious labour and expense ; and
the visitor is met every here and there by protruding masses of slaty
rock which remind him of the patience and energy of the original
settlers. The deep and commodious harbour is open for navigation
all the year round. In the world of commerce St. John is chiefly
known for its immense shipments of lumber, but it also carries
on a considerable trade in plaster, lime, fruit, flour, furs, hay, and
other articles, besides important fisheries. Its manufactures include
cotton and woollen goods, steam-engines, machinery, brushes, leather,
and paper. King Street (p. 30) is the chief business-thoroughfare,
while the finest private residences are chiefly in or near Queen
Square (p. 30), Germain Street (p. 30), Coburg Street (PI. E, 2),
and Carleton Street (PI. E, 2), at Mt. Pleasant (p. 3^1), and in Douglas
Avenue at North End (p. 31).
History. St. John owes its name to Champlain and De Monts, who
first visited the harbour on the day of St. John the Baptist (June 24th),
1604, finding here a settlement of Micmac Indians, on Navy Island (p. 32).
The first permanent European settlement in New Brunswick was made in
Digitized by VjOOQIC
History. ST. JOHN. 10. Route. 29
1681-5, when Charleg de la Tour, who had received a grant of this part of
Acadia, bnilt a fort on St. John Harbour. La Toar here carried on a
Incratiye far-trade with the Indians for some time, but unfortunately be-
came involved in a dispute with his rival and enemy, D*Aulnay OhamUay
of Port Boyal (p. 76), who had the more powerful influence at his back
in France. In 1648 Chamisay attacked Fort La Tourf with six ships and
500 men. La Tour, however, succeeded in escaping in a friendly ship
from La Rochelle, and returned from Boston with so powerful allies that
Chamisay had to raise the siege and retreat. Two years later, taking ad-
vantage of a moment when La Tour was absent and the garrison weak,
Charnisay returned to the attack; but met with an obstinate resistance
from the heroic Huguenot wife of La Tour, and finally gained his point
only through the treachery of a Swiss sentinel. He hanged the whole
garrison before the eyes of Hme. de la Tour, who, soon after, died heart-
broken (see Whittier'** ballad). Chamisay destroyed La Tour^s fort and built
another one on the opposite side of the harbour. He died in 1650*, and
La Tour ultimately regained possession of his lost domain by marrying
his widow (1653). In 1654 Fort La Tour, with the rest of Acadia, was
seized and occupied (till 1670) by an expedition despatched by Oliver Crom-
well. Between 1690 and 1758 the mouth of the St. John was the scene of
several naval encounters between the French on the one side and the British
or New Englanders on the other ; but it was not till the latter year that the
post wa9 captured by an Anglo-American force. The fort captured at this
time was renamed Fort Frederick. In 1759-66 a few New Englanders, led by
Mesirt. Simondt, White, and Peabody, formed a small settlement here; and in
1777, after the destmction of Fort Frederick by American privateers in 1776
the fortification known as Fort Howe (p. 31) was erected. The real foun-
dation of the present city of St. John dates, however, from 1783, during which
year a body of about 10,000 Loyalists landed in the harbour. New Bran
swick was made a separate province the following year, and its first Legis-
lature met at St. John on Jan. 8rd., 1786. The settlement was at first
called Parr Town, after the then Governor of Nova Scotia, but it was
soon rechristened. The charter of St. John, dates from May 18th, 1785,
making it the oldest incorporated town in Canada. The seat of govern-
ment was removed to Fredericton in 1788 (see p. 86). In 1824 St. John
contained 8000 inhab. and possessed 16,0(X) tons of shipping. In 1889 these
figures had risen to 9000 and 80,630. The population in 1851 was 27,745, in
1^1 it was 28,805, and in 1891 it was 39 179 (including Portland). In 1837,
and subsequently, the city was visited by destructive conflagrations; but
the memory of these has been entirely swallowed up by the Qreat Fire of
1877 (June 20th), which swept away fully one-third of the city, rendered
15,000 people homeless, and destroyed property to the value of $29,000,000.
Since then the city has been rebuilt on a much more substantial scale;
but traces of the fire can still be seen in the shape of vacant sites.
General Benedict Arnold lived and carried on business at St. John from
1786 to 1791.
In 1905 the total value of the exports of St. John was $13,548,041
(including lumber to the value of $ 3,981,449), of the imports $ 5,582,477.
In the year ending June 30th, 1905, its harbour was entered and cleared
by 2823 vessels of 1,558,855 tons. Alewives, shad, lobster, and salmon are
caught in the harbour to the annual value of $ 120,000. In 1901 the city con-
tained 187 industrial establishments, employing 4688 hands and producing
goods to the value of $ 6,712,770. The extreme range of temperature is
from about 15* below zero (Fahr.) to 85* above.
King Square (PI. E, 3), near the centre of St. John proper, may
be conveniently taken as the starting-point of our walks about town.
The square , which is planted with trees , contains a fountain and
t The site of this fort is disputed, but the weight of evidence seems
in favour of Parkman and Qanong, who place it on the E. side of the
harbour, probably at Portland Point (PI. D, 1). /^^^^T^
Digitized by VjOOQIc
30 Route 10. ST. JOHN. Custom House.
two monnments : — one commemorating the landing of the Loyalists
in 1783 (p. 29) and the date of the city charter (1785), the other
to the memory of a brave youth, J. F. Young (d. 1890) , who was
drowned in the endeavour to save another's life. On the E. side of
the square are the Court House (PI. E, 3) and Gaol. On the W.
side is the Market (VI. E, 2). — To the E., King Square is ad-
joined by the Old Gbavbyaed (PI. E, 3) , its paths now used as
public walks and lined with many old tombstones and quaint epitaphs.
The wide King Street (PI. D-F, 2, 3), with many of the principal
shops, banks, and hotels, descends from King Sq. towards the W.,
crossing Market Square, where carters congregate with their 'slovens*
(curious low-hung carts), and ending at the Market Slip (PI. D, 2},
which was the landing-place of the Loyalists (p. 29). — Pbincb
William Street (PI. D,E,2, 3), running to theS. from Market Sq.,
passes the Bank of Montreal (PI. 2 ; D, 2) j the Post Office (PL D, 2),
at the corner of Princess St. ; the substantial stone building of the
City Hall (PI. D, 3), opposite the last; the Bank of New Brunswick
(PI. 3 ; D, 2, 3); and the large and handsome Gnstom House (PI. D, 3),
with its dome and towers (views from roof). The street ends at
Reed's Point Whabp (PI. D, 3). — We may continue our walk
from this point along the water's edge to the Military Grounds,
with the Exhibition Buildings (PI. D, 4), where largely attended ex-
hibitions are held every second year (autumn).
In Hazen Av^e., running to the K. from Market Square, is the new
Public Library (PI. 9; E, 2), in a building presented by Mr. Carnegie and
opened in 1905. It contains about 16,000 volumes. — The new quarters
of the Young Merd Christian Association are also to be in this street.
Returning from the Military Grounds towards the centre of the
city via Charlotte Street (PL D, E, 3, 2), we soon reach Queen
Square (PI. D, 3) , among the houses of which may be mentioned
that of the late Lieut. Governor Boyd (d. 1893 ; N. side) and the
effective and well-proportioned residence of Mr, Simeon Jones (N.E.
angle), used by the Prince of Wales on his visit in 1901. On the
N. side is the Queen Square Methodist Church, and on the W. side are
the Skating Rink and the rink of St. Andrew's Curling Club. In
Queen Square is an old cannon, a relic of the period of French oc-
cupation, believed to have come from the ramparts of Fort la Tour
(p. 29) and presented to the city by the New Brunswick Historical
Society in 1906. — In Charlotte St., farther on, to the left, stands
the large *Trinity Churcli (PI. E, 3), the front of which is turned
towards Germain St. This handsome building, with its tall steeple,
occupies the site of the church built by the Loyalists in 1783,
which was destroyed by the great fire of 1877.
The Interiob is noticeable for its roomy chancel, beautiful reredos,
and good stained- glass windows. At the W. end of the church is an old
carved wooden British Coal-of- Arms ^ brought by the Loyalists from the
old State House at the evacuation of Boston in 1776.
Germain Street (PL D , E, 3, 2) , running parallel with and
between Prince William St. and Charlotte St., conMnsmjamy hand-
Fort Howe HiU. ST. JOHN. 10. Route. 31
some private residences; a large Baptist Church (PL D, 3); St. An-
drew's Presbyterian Church (PI. D, 3); the handsome Union Club
(PI. D, 3); the rooms of the Church of England Institute, adjoining
the last; and the city quarters of the Royal Kennebaeasis Yacht Club
and the Masonic Temple (PI. E, 2), adjoining Trinity Church. At
the N. end of the street is 8t. John% or the Stone Church (PI. E, 2),
the oldest church-huilding in the city (1824 ; interior practically
unchanged). The bell is on the outside of the top of the tower.
The Stone Church is adjoined by the York Theatre (PI. E, 2). —
Adjacent, in Union St., are the new High School (PI. E, 2) and
(opposite) the fine rooms of the Natural History Society, containing
many interesting relics and specimens.
Among the other buildings of note in the part of the city to the S. of
King St. are the Home for IncvrdbU$ (PI. E, 3, A); the Wiggint Atylum
for Male Orphans (PL E, 4), a handsome building of red and grey sandstone ;
the Jliater Miserieordiae Hospital^ Sydney St., opposite Orange St. (PI. E, 3)^
the Centenary JlieViodist Church (PI. E, 3), a handsome building with a seating
capacity of over 2000^ the Leintter Street Baptist Church (PL E, 3); 8t. David's
Presbyterian Church (PL E, 3), Sydney St.; St. John the BaptUVs Church
(PL D, A; R. C.) and St. Jameses Church (PL 0,4? Epis.), Broad St.j the
Victoria School (PL E, 8) and the Madras School (PL D, 8), Duke St.
Waterloo Street (PI. E, F, 2), beginning at the N.W. angle of
the Old Graveyard (p. 30), leads to the *Boman Catholic Cath-
edral (PI. E, F, 2), a large Gothic building of marble and sandstone,
200 ft. long, with a lofty spire.
The architecture of the Imtbriob is simple and severe, and the stained-
glass windows are unusually good for a modern church. The transepts
are 110 ft. long. Over the S.E. door is a basrelief of the Lord^s Supper.
Adjoining the cathedral, in Cliff St., are the Bishop^s Palace and an
Orphan Asylum. On the other side of the cathedral is a large building
occupied by the Sisters of the Oood Shepherd, with a home for fallen women.
Farther on, Waterloo St. passes the City Hospital (PI. F, 2), a
circular building with two large wings on a commanding height
(view). The street ends at the Marsh Bridge, at the head of Court"
enay Bay, the arm of the sea to the E. of the St. John peninsula.
The old city of St. John is separated from Hoith End (Portland)
and the heights of Mt. FUasant by a deep ravine traversed by the
Intercolonial Railway (comp. PI. E, F, 2) . In the valley are the
Skating Rhik, St. Paul's Church (PI. E, F, 2), Holy Tnnity Church
(PI. E, 1), and St. Stephen's Church (PI. E, 2). The visitor should
not omit to cross the valley (easiest route vial Coburg and Garden
Sts., PL E, 2) and ascend the opposite heights for the sake of the
view from the summit.
The ♦View includes the city, with its fine harbour and Courtenay Bay;
the suburb of West End or Carleton (see p. 82), on the opposite side of
the harbour*, Lily Lake and Rockwood Park to theE.^ the irregular wood-
clad limestone hills to the K., with stretches of the Kennehecdsis, etc.
Another good point of view is *rort Howe Hill (PI. D, E, 1), a mass
of limestone crowned by the remains of the old fort of that name
(p. 29). An old well here, once used by the garrison, is now choked
with rubbish. Here, too, is Jenny's Spring, so named froi
32 Route 10. FALLS OF THE ST. JOHN.
tion that it was heie that Gobbett, then a soldier in the 54th regi-
ment, fell in love with his future wife, then a girl of thirteen.
**In about three mornings after I had first seen her, I had, by an invita-
tion to breakfast with me, got up two young men to join me in my walk*,
and our road lay by the house of her father and mother. It was hardly
light, but she was out on the snow, scrubbing out a washing-tub. *ThaVs
the girl for me% said I, when we had got out of her hearing'" (Gobbett).
About six months later Cobbetrs regiment was removed to Fredericton,
while the girl returned to England. He sent her the whole of his savings,
amounting to 150 guineas, begging her *^not to spare the money, but to
buy herself good clothes, and to live without hard work'*. Nevertheless,
when he returned to England at the end of four years, he found his
"little girl a servant of all work at five pounds a year, and without hardly
saying a word about the matter, she put into my hands the wAoIe of my 160
guinea* unbroken^". It is satisfactory to know that their marriage waa as
happy as it should have been.
West End (formerly named CafUton)^ a busy but not especially
attractive suburb, except for the view it commands of St. John, is most
easily reached by steam-ferry (2 c. j PI. C, D, 2), a trip which affords
a good idea of the busy life of the Harbour, The salmon-weirs are
a conspicuous feature at low water. A little above the ferry is Navy
Island (PI. C, 1, 2), 'opposite which* La Tour built his fort (p. 29).
On the highest point of West End is a Martello Tower (PI. A, 3), con-
structed in the war of 1812 , the *View from which well repays the small
trouble of reaching it. It contains a small collection of relics (open 10-12,
2-6, and 7-9 s adm. 10 c). The walls are 6 ft. thick. Some of the West
End Chvrchet , such as the new B. C. Church of the Assumption (PI. A, 3),
are rather handsome buildings. A large Grain Elevator (PI. C, 3), at the
West End termination of the G.P.R., is a conspicuous object. About
Vs M. to the S.W. of the 31 artello Tower is the Bay Shore, a bathing-beach
and popular resort, with the new Seaside Park (beyond PI. A, 1, 2). —
On Lancaster Heights, beyond West End , is the New Brunswick School for
the Deaf (1903), affording a good view of the city, harbour, and falls.
Last, but by no means least, among the lions of St. John are the
famous *FalIs of the Biver St. John (PI. A, 1), the chief character-
istic of which is well denoted by the epithet 'reversible*, appUed to
them by an American humorist. They are most directly reached by
the electric cars which run along Douglas Ave. (PI. B-D, 1). The
best views of them are obtained from the Suspension Bridge (PL A, 1),
which hangs directly over them, with a span of 640 ft. and a height
of 70 ft. above high-water, and from the large lumber and pnlp
mills on the bank.
The River St. John, which is at places 4-5 M. wide (comp. p. 33), here
makes its way into the sea through a channel only 450 ft. across, hemmed
in by limestone cliffs 100 ft. high. At low tide the river falls about 15 ft.
into the harbour*, but the strong and impetuous Bay of Fundy tide,
which here rises about 25 ft., counterbalances this fall at high water and,
indeed, entirely 'reverses' it. At a little more than hiJf-tide the river here
is level and easily navigable.
The visitor who has sufficient time at his disposal is strongly advised
to visit the Falls both at high and low water, m order to have ocular
proof of this very remarkable phenomenon (time* cards obtained at the hotels).
Just above the Suspension Bridge is the fine Oantilever Bailway Bridge
of the C.P.R. (see p. 25), 120 ft. above low water. It cost $600,000.
Just beyond the Suspension Bridge is the large building of the
ProYincial Lunatic Asylum (PL A, 1), whichf idth its farm-annex,
Digitized by VjOOQIC
RIVER ST. JOHN. 11, Route 33
accommodates nearly 500 patients. — We may easily combine a visit
to the Falls with that to West End, as the Lnnatic Asylum is only
about 3/4 M. from the Martello Tower (see p. 32).
Adjoining Douglas Avenue (see p. 32) is the Biverview Memorial
Park (PL B, C, 1), with a monument commemorative of the South
African War (1899-1900).
Envj^ns of St. John.
One of the favonrite drives of the St. Johnians is the Mabsh Road,
beginning at the Marsh Bridge (p. 31) and following what is supposed to
be an ancient channel of the St. John Biver. This road passes {V/i M.)
the Fern Hill Cemetery and the (IV2 M.) Jioosepath Racing Park and may be
followed along Kennebeedtis Bay to (6 M.) Rolhetay (p. 48). — The first
road to the right beyond the Marsh Bridge leads to (2 M.) the Roman
CatlioUe Cemetery^ (1 M.) the Silver FalU, and (7 M.) Loch Lomond (Ben Lo-
mond House), which is much frequented for boating, fishing, and shooting.
— Rookwood Park, about Ujt M. from King Sq., yi& Mt. Pleasant (see
p. 31), contains 12 M. of driveways, a public garden, a small zoological
collection, and *Lily Lake, a charming little boating and skating resort. —
The Shobb Road to Mispbo diverges to the right from the Loch Lomond
road, Va M. from the Marsh Bridge, and skirts Courienay Bay, which at
low-water is an expanse of dark sand. In about »/4 M. we pass the Alms
House, opposite which are the large buildings of the Reformaiory A In^
dustrial School. Mispec Point is about 9 M. from the city, and the village
of Mispec, with a large pulp-mill, is about 1 M. farther on. — The Mahogany
Road (a cdrmption of the Indian Manauoagonish), beginning beyond the
Suspension Bridge (p. 32), runs through the village of Fairville (2000 inhab.)
and thence to the S.W. to (7 M.) Spruce Lake (p. 42). It affords good views
over the Bay of Fundy (p. 76).
From St. John to Fredericton and other points on the St. John River
and its tributaries, see R. 11 a*, to Fredericton by railway, see R. lib;
to Halifax via the Bay of Fundy, see R. 20 a; to Halifax by railway, see
R. 20 b; to Moncton and Quebec, see R. 17; to Montreal, see R. 16; to St.
Andrews and St. Stephen, see R. 14; to Campohello and Or and Manan (by
steamer vi& Eastport), see R. 15; to Portland (Boston) by railway see
R. 8; to Boston by sea, see R. 7a.
11. From St. John to Fredericton.
a. By Biver.
84 M. Steamer of the Star Line in 6-7 hrs., starting daily (except Sun.
from Indiantown (comp. PI. D, 1) at 8.30 a.m. (fare $ 1 ; meals 50 c. ; return-
tickets, available from Sat. to Mon., at a single fare; day return- ticket,
available by G.P.R. train leaving Fredericton fur St. John about 9 p.m., $ 2).
The 'Victoria* is the faster and better boat of the two engaged in the service.
This is a pleasant trip for those who have time for it, especially when the
banks glow with the rich colours of the autumn- foliage. The words
right (r.) and left (1.) are used In the following description in reference
to persons ascending the river. Many of the in^rmediate landings are
made by small boats. Some of the side-trips, such as those up the Kenne-
beedsis and to Grand Lake, are also attractive. Full particulars as to the
small steamers engaged in these services will be found in the daily papers.
The St. John, 460 M. in length and much the largest river in New
Brunswick, r^ses in the great forests of the N. part of Maine and flows
at first towards the N.E. and afterwards to the 8.E. For about 70 M. it
forms the boundary between Maine and New Brunswick. It is navigable
for steamers of some size up to (84 M.) Fredericton, and for smaller vessels
to Woodstock, 65 M. farther up, or even to Grand Falls, nearly 220 M.
from the sea. *It is noteworthy that, though the general course of the
BAaDEKEB's Canada. '3rd Edit. 3 jOOglC
34 Route 11. LONG REACH. From St. John
St. John is nearly parallel to the line of theE. coast of New Brnnswick,
it cuts across the principal lines of elevation and the nsnal N.E. and S.W.
trend of the rocks of the province upon which the positions of these eleva-
tions depend' (0. M. Dawion). The St. John drains nearly hiJf of the
entire area of New Brunswick, besides a large tract of Maine. Among
its chief tributaries are the 8t. Francis, the Madawasia, the ArooMtook,
the Tobique, the UFathwaak, the Oromocto^ the Wa»7iademoak , the Salmon,
and the Kenn^ecasit. A large part of its basin is covered with pine and
other forest, and immense quantities of timber are floated down the river.
It received its present name from De Monts in 1601 (comp. p. 28); the
Indians called it Ouygoudy ('highway') or Looshtook Clong nver').
St. John, see p. 27. In order to escape the FaUa (p. 32), the
steamers start at Indiantown, a snhnrb jnst above the Suspension
and Railway Bridges (p. 32), reached by electric car (5 c.). As
we leave we enjoy a fine retrospect of the city , with the bridges
spanning the gorge through which the St. John forces its way to
the harbour. The banks, at first, are high, steep , and picturesque,
with numerous lumber-mills, limestone-quarries, and lime-kilns.
Near the promontory named Boards Head (r.), about 8 M. from
Indiantown, the river expands into Grand Bay, about 5 M. across,
while behind (1.) lies South Bay, with its numerous saw-mills. To
the right opens ^Kennebeo&Bis Bay, the estuary of the Kennehtcatis
River (p. 48), with Kennebecasia Island,
This bay, which also receives the waters of the Hammond Biver, is
1-4 H. wide and navigable for large vessels for 20-25 M. It contains many
islands and includes the famous St. John rowing- course (comp. p. 48).
Beyond Grand Bay the river again contracts. Its windings often
close up the apparent channel and make it look like a series of lakes.
The hills which enclose it are here about 200-400 ft. in height. The
railway (p. 24) is seen to the left.
9 M. (L) Brundage^B Point, one of the landings for Westfield,
a favourite little summer-resort at the mouth of the Nerepis, with a
sandy beach. — The river here bends to the N.E. (r.), and we enter
the so-called Long Beach, a straight stretch of the river, 16 M. long
and 1-3 M. wide. To the left rises the ridge called the DeviVs Back,
River-craft of various kinds are met here, including small tug-
steamers drawing enormous timber-rafts.
10 M. (1.) Woodman 8. — 11 M. (1.) Nat, Belyea's, with a light-
house. — 12 M. (r.) Carter's, — 17 M. (1.) Pitt's Landing, — 171/2 M.
(r.) Laskie*s Landing. — 20 M. Brown's Flat (1.), with summer
cottages. — 2OV2 M. Pugsley's Island, — 22 M. (r.) Cedars (Cedars,
$ 2-272)- — 25 M. (1.) Oak Point, a pretty little hamlet with a light-
house and church. Numerous islands stud the river here.
Just beyond Oak Point , to the left, is a long narrow peninsula
named The Mistake^ so called because the inlet between it and the
W. bank is apt to be taken for one of the channels of the river.
26 M. (r.) SterritVs, at the mouth of Kingston Creek, an arm of
BelleisleBay (14 M. long and 1 M. wide), which here opens to the right.
29 M. (r.) Palmer's Point. — The river now bends again to the
N.W. (1.).
Digitized byCjOOQlC
to Fredericton. ' GAGETOWN. 11. Route. 35
30 M. (1.) Evandale (Vanwait's Hotel, $11/2). — 30V2 M. (r.)
David VanwarVs. — 31 M. John AUen^s , at the foot of Spoon Island.
On the mainland at this point are some famous granite-quairies. —
32 M. (r.) Black's. — 33 V2 M. Case's^ near the head of Spoon Island.
— 34 M. (1.) Hampstead (Vanwart's Hotel, $ IV2)) nearly opposite
the end of Long Island, a fertile hay-growing strip, 6 M. long, with
fine elms and two ponds. — 34 M. (r.) Wickham,
About 2 M. above this, to the right , partly concealed by Little
MusqtLash Island, is the mouth of Washademoak Lake.
Washademoak Lake, really an expansion of the river of that name,
25 M. long and Vs-S M. wide, is visited more or less regularly by a small
steamer from St. John, but offers few inducements to the tourist.
40 M. (1.) Otnabog, at the outlet of the lake of the same name,
nearly opposite the upper end of Long Island. — 42 M. (1.) McAl-
pin^s (Halfway Clump), opposite Upper Musquash Island. — 47 M.
ir.) Buzia's or ScoviVs Point (lighthouse). — 50 M. (L) Oagetown,
Simpson's, $2), behind the peninsula of Grimross Neck, is the
principal place on the river between St, John and Fredericton (pop.
926). It is shire-town of Queen's Co., is beautifully situated, and
has several churches and public buildings.
To the right, at this point, on the other side of the peninsula, is
the mouth of the Jemseg River, the outlet of Orand Lake (see below).
A small steamer plies regularly from St. John to Grand Lake (see
daily papers). After quitting the St. John River, it ascends the slow and
winding Jemseg, the mouth of which was once guarded by a strong fort
erected by the French in 1640. Half-a-century later M. de ViUebcn, Gov-
ernor of Acadia, made his headquarters here , an honour that was trans-
ferred to Kashwaak (Fredericton) soon after. — Grand Lake, which is
30 M. long and 3-9 M. wide, is surrounded by a farming and coal-mining
country. The usual terminus of the steamer is CMpman, about 10 M. up
the Salmon River, which flows into the N. end of the lake.
The hills bordering the St. John now disappear, and the rest of
the trip passes through a fertile *intervale' district, overflowed by
the spring freshets. The river bends to the left. 53 M. (1.) Grimross
Canal. — 56 M. (1.) Gunter^s. — 60 M. Upper Gagetown, with a pier.
Opposite Gilbert's or Maugerville Island we call at (64 M.) Shef-
field (r.), with its quaint church, and at (66 M.) Sheffield Academy,
with the building formerly used as a school. The river here flows
nearly E. and W. To the left we have a charming view of (68 M.)
Burton, with its church-spire rising from a sea of green foliage.
Opposite (r.) lies Upper Sheffield. — "We now pass Middle Island and
reach (71 M. ; r.) Maugerville, the first English settlement in New
Brunswick (1763). In 1776 the majority of the inhabitants declared
in favour of the Colonies and against Great Britain — a declaration
that entailed no serious consequences, even to themselves I
73 M. (1.) Oromocto (Riverside Hotel, $ 1 V2), *» attractive vil-
lage with a good wharf, at the mouth of the Oromocto, in which
trout and pickerel may ip caught. A fort for protection against the
Indians was erected here. Opposite lies Oromocto Island: ^^^}^
36 Route 11. FREDERIOTON. From 8t. John
From about this point all the way to Fredericton the river is
lined with timber-booms, anchored by stone-fllled piers. The *8hear-
booms^ attached to the main booms , are for oatching passing logs.
Lnmbermen are seen at work in all directions, and tiny tug-boats
are hauling log-rafts. Indians in birch-bark canoes may be encoun-
tered here, if not lower down.
75 M. (r.) Upper MaugervUle. — 79 M. (1.) Olasier's,
The first part of Fredericton to come in sight is the University,
on the hills to the left. Then the Cathedral spires and the dome of
the Parliament Buildings are seen over a low point to the right.
About 1 M. before reaching the city we pass a busy saw-mill on the
left. Finally we pass through the 'draw' of the fine Railway Bridge
and moor at the wharf to the left , between the bridges. On the
opposite bank (r.) lie Oib$on and St. Mary's (see p. 38). The
hotels, which are within a few hundred yards of the wharf, send
carriages to meet the steamer (no charge).
84 M.(l.) Fredericton CBarfccfJIowsc, Queen, $2-3725 Windsor,
$ 2-2^/2 J cab 25 c per drive within the city ; U.S. Agent), the
capital of New Brunswick, is a very attractive little city of (1901)
7117 inhab., pleasantly situated on the right bank of the St. John,
with wide elm-shaded streets, good shops, and many handsome
buildings. The five main streets, running parallel with the river —
Queen, King, Brunswick, Oeorge, and Charlotte — were laid out in
1785 and were named by Governor Carleton in honour of the reign-
ing family of Great Britain. Two new streets (Saunders &n6. Aberdeen)
have since been added. The main raison d^Ure of the city is the
presence of the Provincial Government Offices, but it also carries
on a few manufactures and a large lumber-trade, while it is the
distributing point for the surrounding country. It is an important
centre for the sportsman (see p. 38). Fredericton is the seat of a
cavalry-school and of a company of active militia. The river, here
3/4 M. wide, is crossed by a railway-bridge (p. 89) and by another
for carriages and foot-passengers.
In 16^ Oovernor Villebon (p. 36) transferred hia headquarters from
Jemseg to the mouth of the Nathvoaak (p. 88), opposite Fredericton , in
order to be nearer his Malicete allies, and built here a strong fort and
stockade , which successfully resisted an attack by the New Englanders
in 1696. In 1698, however, the garrison was removed to the fort at the
ipouth of the river St. John (p. 29), and in 1700 Fort Nashwaak was
destroyed and abandoned. The village at 8t. Anne"** Point, on the opposite
bank, was founded about 1740, and in 1757 it received many Acadian re-
fugees from Nova Scotia. When the British took possession of New Brun-
swick (see p. 87), the name of St. Anne was changed to Fredericton by
Governor Carleton in 1785, and in 1787 it was made the capital of the
province, partly because St. John was considered too open to attack, but
chiefly to encourage the settlement of the lands in the centre of the Province.
The Province of New Brunswick, of which Fredericton is the capital,
is about 200 M. long from N. to S. and 160 M. wide from E. to W. Its
area, 27,500 sq. M., is a little less than that of Scotland. On the N. it is
bounded by the Province of Quebec, on the W. by the State of Maine, on
the S. by the Bay of Fundy, and on the E. by the Gulf of St. Lawrence,
to Fredericton. FREDERICTON. 11. Route. 37
while at its S.E. angle it connects with Nova Scotia by the narrow Isthmas
of Chignecto (see p. 86). It has a coast-line of about 500 M., with namerous
bays and excellent harboars. The chief rivers are the St. John (p. 33),
the Miramichi (p. 88), and the Eatigouche i:^. 90). The surface consists
mainly of undulating plains and hills, with no mountain-ranges properly
so called, and much of it is still covered with forest. Perhaps two-thirds
of it are available for agriculture, but so far only about one-tenth has
been cleared and occupied. All the ordinary British cereals and roots are
successfully grown. Along with agriculture, fishing and lumbering are the
chiefpursuits of the inhabitants, of whom there were 321,263 in 1891 and
331,120 in 1901. The fisheries employ 10,000 men and are surpassed in
value by those of Nova Scotia and British Columbia only. The mineral
resources include coa^, iron, gypsum, copper, and manganese. About one-
third of the population is of English origin, one-third Irish, one-sixth
French, nearly one-sixth Scottish. The Indians number about 1400. —
New Brunswick was included in the grant of ^Acadia^ made to De Monts
in 1603 (comp. p. 63), but in 1713 the French tried to restrict this name
to Nova Scotia, and it was not till 1763 that New Brunswick became an
undisputed part of the British Empire (comp. p. 86). Many of the Kova
Scotia Acadians took refuge in New Brunswick in 1756 (see p. 95). New
Brunswick was made a separate province in 1784 (p. 63) and Joined the
Dominion of Canada in 1867. — iTew Brunswick offers some of the best
fishing and shooting in Canada (comp. pp. 86, 38, 1).
I ' The chief street, with the best shops and many public buildings,
is QuBBN Stkebt, running along the water-front for I1/2 M. Follow-
ing it to the left (S.E.) on coming from the steamboat-wharf, we
pass the Queen Hotel (r.) and Court House (1.) and reach the Par-
liament Bnilding, a handsome stone structure, with a Corinthian
portico, small dome, and mansard corner -towers. The adjacent
building of purplish sandstone contains the Bepaftmental Offices,
The Assembly Hall, on the groundfioor to the right on entering, con-
tains portraits of George III. and Queen Charlotte, the Earl of Sheffield,
etc. The Legislature, which consists of 46 members, including the Speaker,
generally meets in February. — The Supreme Courts to the left, contains
portraits of the Chief Justices of New Brunswick. — The Hall of the Legis-
lative Council^ upstairs, became the Supreme Court Boom when New Brun-
swick declared for a single legislative chamber. — The LQ>rary^ at the back
of the main building, contains a set of the plates of Audtibon'^s 'Birds^ and
other valuable works. — An excellent *View is obtained from the Dome.
In the Crown Land Office^ in the Departmental Building, is a copy of
the ^Atlantic Neptune', published for the use of the British Navy in 1770.
A little way beyond the Parliament Building, in a pretty wooded
^close', stands ^Christ Ghuroli Cathedral, a small but beautiful
Dec. (iothic building of grey stone , with a spire 180 ft. high. It
was built in 1849, through the exertions and largely at the expense
of Bishop Medley (d. 1892), who is buried to the E. of the choir.
The *Interior, with its shallow transepts and spacious choir, is simply
but tastefully adorned and makes a pleasing impression. The Stained
Olass Window at the E. end was a gift of the Episcopalians of the United
States. Behind the organ is a tablet to Major- General Smyth (d. 1823),
Lieutenant-Qovernor of New Brunswick. — Services on Sun. at 8, 11, and 7;
holy-days at 11a.m.; week-days at 9 a.m. and 5 p.m.
If we turn to the right (N.W.) on reaching Queen St. from^the
wharf, we pass (right) the Officers* Square, with its green lawns
the Officers* Quarters, the Post Office, the Barracks y the Normav
School, and the City Hall, Farther on , in the same direction, we
pass the wooden Victoria Hospital, an institution due te-theactivity
38 Route 11. FREDERICTON.
of Lady Tilley, and reach Oovemment House, formerly the residence
of the Lieutenant-Governor. Opposite lies WUmot Park, presented
and endowed by Mr. E. H. Wilmot. About V2 **• farther out is the
Hermitage, formerly the residence of the Hon. Thos. BaMie; the
mansion was burned down some time ago, and the attractive grounds
have been secured as the site of a Roman Catholic institution.
Drivers may follow this pleasant road along the river to (4 M .) the
village of Springhill (p. 89).
At the back of Fredericton rises a series of wooded heights, on
the southernmost of which, IV2M. from the centre of the city, stands
the University of Hew Bnmswiok, a substantial stone building
dating from 1828 (140 students). It should be visited for the sake of
the *View from the cupola. It has an excellent geological museum.
Other noticeable buildings are the Presbyterian and Methodist
Churches and the little Anglican Christ Church (formerly 8t. Ann'^s).
No visitor shonld omit to cross the river by the road-bridge (p. 36),
which begins behind the Post Of&ce and leads to the village of St. Uarp^t,
below the mouth of the Nashwaaitit Clittle NashwaaV). It is adjoined
by a small settlement of Malicete Indians, whose services as canoe-men
and guides are in demand among sportsmen. [The white guides, of whom a
list is published by the New Brunswick Tourist Associalioo, are co'Visidered
the best, while the Micmac Indians, on the K. shore, are also good.] To the
8. of St. Mary's, at the mouth of the Nathwaak, lies Cfibson, a lumbering
village with about 1000 inhabitants. A drive hence up the Nashwaak
leads to (3 M.) the model town of Karyivllle, the seat of the large lumber-
mills of Mr. Alexander Gibson , the *Lumber King of New Brunswick^
who employs altogether about 200O men. The points of interest here in-
clude the Saw MilU^ a large Cotton Mill, the rows of neat little houses of the
employees, and the somewhat fantastic octagonal Church, — Gibson and
Marysville are stations on the Fredericton Section of the Intercolonial Railway
(see p. 89), and Gibson is also on the C P.R. line to Woodstock (see p. 39).
A favourite drive leads along the S.W. side of the river past Kings-
clear (p. 39), crosses the river at (9 M.) Crock's Point, and retumg down
the E. bank vi& Keswick, Douglas, Nashwaaksis, and St. Mary^s.
A delightful canoe-trip may be taken up uie Nashwaaksis (see above)
to (12 M.) its pretty Falls.
Fredericton ig a good starting-point for caribou-shooting, the best
Fcason for which is in December, after the first snow. Guides, equipments,
and camp -supplies are easily obtainable here. Good fishing of various
kinds is also accessible hence. Information may be obtained on applica-
tion to Mr, L. B. Knight, Chief Game Commissioner for the Province of
New Brunswick, or from Mr. R. P. Allen, of the N. B. Guide Association.
From Fredericton to CTuttham (Fredericton Section of Intercolonial Rail-
way), see p. 89; to Woodstock^ see B. 12.
b. By Bailway.
67 M. Canadian Pacific Railway in 2-2V2 hrs. (fare $2).
From St. John to (45 M.) Fredericton Junction, see p. 25. Our line
here diverges to the right (N.) and runs through a wooded district, at
some distance to the W.of theiJivcr Oromocto (p. 35). None of the inter-
mediate stations are important. 53 M, Rusiagomis', 57 M. Waaais;
61 M. Glasiet; 63 M. Dodk; 64 M. Victoria; 66 M. Salamanca.
67 M* Fredericton, see p. 36. The Union Railway Station lies
at the E. end of the city, ^
Digitized by VjOOQIC
39
12. From Fredericton to Woodstock.
a. By Bailway.
65 M. Canadian Pacific Railway in 4V« hrs. (fare $2.10).
Fredericton^ see p. 36. The train crosses the St. Johth by a fine
cantilever steel bridge (view), 8/4 M. long, to (2 M.) Oihson (p. 38).
It then turns to the left (W."), passes (3 M.) St. Mary's, and crosses
the Nashwaaksis (p. 38) at (4 M.) Douglas. Fine views of the St.
John are enjoyed to the left; Springhill (see below) is visible on
the opposite shore. At (14 M.) Keswick we turn to the right, quit
the St. John, and ascend the left bank of the Keswick. Some pleas-
ant bits of scenery are passed at first, but farther np the valley is
dreary and unattractive. The line gradually bends round to the W.,
crossing and recrossing the stream. 18 M. Cardigan ; 22 M. Zea-
land; 31 M. Upper Keswick; 41 M. Millville;A:S M. Woodstock Bead ;
45 M. Nackawic; 54 M. Shewan, At (59 M.) Newhurg Junction (Rail.
Restaurant) we join the line fromWoodstock to Edmundston (see R. 13)
and follow it towards the S., with the St. John River to the right
Beyond (62 M.) Upper Woodistock we cross the St. John by a long
wooden bridge and reach —
65 M. Woodstock (see p. 40).
b. By Biver.
In spring and autumn , when the water is high enough to permit it,
a 'stem- wheel' steamer plies up the St. John to Woodstock (64 M.-, fare
$ 1.50, meals 40 c). The scenery is attractive.
Fredericton, see p. 36. The steamer at first runs towards the
W., passing (5 M. ; 1.) Springhill, Sugar Island (r.), and (9 M. ; 1.)
Lower French Village^ an Acadian settlement opposite the mouth of
the Keswick (see above). The river then turns to the S.W.
17 M. Upper Kingsclear, — 20 M. (r.) Lower Queensbury. The
river here turns again to the N.W. — 22 M. (1.) Lower Prince Wil-
liam. — 23 M. Bear Island. — 25 M. (1.) Prince William,
30 M, (r.) Upper Queensbury. The river bends to the right.
40 M. (1.) Pokiok, picturesquely situated at the mouth of the
river of that name, the outlet of Lake George. In descending to the
St. John this stream forms a fall 40 ft. high and cuts its way through
a narrow gorge Y4 M. long. — The St. John once more turns to the W.
44 M. Meductic Rapids, which in low water the steamer ascends
with some difficulty.
45 M. (1.) Lower Canterbury, near the mouth of the Sheogomoc
River, — 47 M. (r.) Southampton. — 51 M. (1.) Upper Canterbury^
at the mouth of Eel River,
About 4 M. farther on, beyond (55 M.; r.) Northampton, is the
site of the old Meductic fort and Indian village (1.), which have
existed from time immemorial and were described by English and
French writers more than two centuries ago. The river here flows
almost N. and S. Digit zed by GoOglc
40 Route 13. ANDOVER.
67 M. (1.) Lower Woodstock.
64 M. {l.jWoodBtook (CarlUU, $2-2V2> Aberdeen, $1V2J U. S.
Consul, Mr, Frank C. Denison), a town of (1901) 3644 inhab., pleas-
antly situated on a Mgli bluff, at the confluence of the St. John and
the Meduxndceag, is the centre of a thriving agricultural district.
It also possesses saw-mills, foundries, and factories, but the ad-
jacent iron-mines are no longer worked. The drives in the vicinity
of the town are picturesque and the roads excellent. A handsome
iron bridge with stone piers spans the river to Oraftoriy on theE. side.
From Woodstock to McAdam Junction^ see p. 26^ to Orand FaU$ and
Edmundaton^ see B. 13.
13. From Woodstock to Orand Falls and Edmnndston.
113 M. Canadian Pacific Railway in 62/3 hrs. (fare $3.50). This line
runs through a picturesque district, and the Grand Falls are well worth seeing.
From Woodstock to (5 M.) Newhurg Junction^ see p. 39. Our
line now runs to the N., hugging the E. bank of the 8t. Jo^n (views
to the left). 12 M. Hartland; 16 M. PeeL — 23 M. FlorencevUle ;
the prettily situated village is on the opposite side of the river. About
6 M. to the S.W. rises Afar* HUl (1200 ft.). — The scenery improves.
26 M. Bristol is only 15 M. by road from the upper waters of the
main arm of the Miramichi (see p. 88). At (40 M.) Muniac we
cross the stream of that name. — From (48 M.) Perth the Tobique
Valley Railway runs to (28 M. ; fare 95 c) Plaster Rock, with its rich
deposits of gypsum. There is some talk of extending this line to
Riley Brook, — The train now crosses the St. John to (49 M.) Andover
(Perley's Inn, $ lV2-2)i ^ village of about 700 inhab., forming the
headquarters of the anglers of the Tobique district.
About 1 M. above Andover, on the opposite side of the St. John, is
the mouth of the *Tobiqae, a famous stream for salmon, trout, and scenery.
Guides ($ 1-1 Vs per day) and canoes may be obtained in the Malicete vil-
lage at the mouth of the river or by consulting the list of white guides
prepared by the New Brunswick Tourist Association (better). The enthusiastic
angler may push his way up to Nictor or Nictau Lake, at the headwaters of the
Tobique (a week^s journey), whence a portage of 8 M. will bring him to the
headwaters of the Nipisiguit (p. 89). Thence he may paddle in 6-6 days
to the Great FalU of the Nipisiguit^ 20 M. from BatJwrst (comp. p. 89). Near
Nictor Lake is Bald Mt. (2500 ft.), the highest point in l^w Brunswick.
Near Johnville, not far from Andover, a cave was discovered in 1906,
conlalDing human bones and relics of the 17-18th centuries.
From (54 M.) Aroostook Junction a branch -line runs up the
valley of the Aroostook to (7 M.) Fort Fairfield, (19 M.) Caribou, and
(34 M.) Presque Isle, three small towns in Maine (2-3000 inhab.).
The so-called ^Aroottook War\ in 1839, arose from disputes about the
boundary between New Brunswick and Maine, but did not pass beyond
the stage of ^mobilisation of forces^ on both sides. The ensuing diplo-
macy adjudged the Aroostook Valley, which had been largely settled by
New Brunswickers , to the United States. The valley aflFords excellent
fishing and also bear, moose, caribou, deer, and duck shooting, llie
name will be familiar to all admirers of HowelW *Lady of the Aroostook*.
The line crosses the Aroostook and continues to follow the
St. John, which now flows to our right — 73 M. Grand Falls (Our2e3d,
Digitized by ^
GI^AND FALLS. 13. RouU. 41
well spoken of, $2), a small town with 1900 inhab., attracts a
nnmber of summer-Tisitors by its fine scenery, beautiful woods,
and cool climate. The town, through which runs a wide grassy ayenue
named Broadway, occupies a high plateau surrounded on three sides
by the river and on the fourth by a ravine. Partridge and duck
shooting are popular in autumn.
Opposite the town are the *Chrand Falls of the St. John, where the
river suddenly contracts and plunges into a rocky gorge from a height of
74 ft. These falls rank with the finest on the continent in everything bat
size, and their environment is very impressive. A good distant view of
them is obtained from the J^pemion Bridge^ which crosses the river about
200 yds. below, while a nearer view is obtained from the old mill or by
descending the steep steps to the bottom of the ravine. — The ravine is
about */« H. long and 360 ft. wide, while its sides of dark calcareous slate
rise precipitously to a height of iOO-250 ft. It contains several lesser falls
ahd rapids, with a total descent of 50 ft. more. Among the subordinate
points of interest in it are the Cave, the Coffet Mitt, and the Willt. The
visitor should try to see the falls when lumber is passing over them. —
A romantic Indian tradition (not, however, by any means confined to this
district) narrates that an invading party of Hohawks captured two Malicete
squaws, whom they forced to act as their pilots down the river. The
women assured them that the stream was free from falls or rapids and
that the noise they heard was that of a tributary stream. The Hohawks
consequently did not realise their danger till too late, and their canoes
were all swept over the faJls — the heroines losing their own lives but
saving their village from destruction.
The railway crosses to the left (E.) bank of the river a little above
the falls and continues its course towards the N.W. (views to the
left). The river now forms the boundary between New Brunswick
and Maine , and we soon reach the Acadian district mentioned at
p. 95. — 86 M. 8t. Leonard's. — 90 M. Grand Rher lies at the
mouth of the river of that name.
This forms the beginning of a canoe and portage route to the head-
waters of the Bestigouehe (p. 90), which are withih about 16 M. of this
part of the St. John. Guides and canoes are generally brought from the
Malicete settlements at the mouth of the Tobique (p. 40) but may also
be obtained at one of the Acadian villages (best guides those named in
the list of the N.B. Tourist Association).
102 M. OreenRioer-y 106 M. St. BasU, with a large Roman Catho-
lic church and convent. — The train continues to hug the river,
which here sweeps round to the W., and soon reaches —
112M. Edmnndston (see p. 95). Route hence via Lake Temis-
couata to Riviere du Loup (in the reverse direction), see p. 95.
14. From St. John to St. Stephen and St. Andrews.
a. By Bailway.
St. Stephen is reached by the Nbw Brunswick Southebn Bailwat (82 M.)
in 4Vs hrs. (fare $ 1.76) or by the Canadian Pacific Railway vi& McAdam
Junction in i hrs. St. Andrews is reached by the G. P. B. vi& McAdam
Junction (comp. p. 25) in 41/4 hrs. (fare $2.60).
In fine weather the steamboat voyage (B. 14b) is preferable to the
railway.
8U John^ see p. 27. The train of the Shore Line starts from
West End Ferry (p. 32), on the W. side of the harbour^ ^j^Jgns
42 Route 14. ST. ANDRE\¥S. From St John
to the W., following the general line of the coast but affording com-
paratively few views of the Bay of Fundy (p. 23). — 8 M. Spruce
Lake (p. 33); 17 M. Musquash, a village with (1901) 741 inhab., at
the head of a small harbour; 24 M. Lepreaux, at the head of Mace^s
Bay. Point Lepreaux, 7 M. to the S., is provided with a lighthouse.
At Beaver Harbor, 5 M. from (38 M.) Pennfield, is the Paul Hotel
(well spoken of), frequented for shooting and fishing. — 47 M.
St. George M^'c^fw, $1V4; ^•'5. Agent), a small seaport, with (1901)
2892 inhab., at the mouth of the Magaguadavic (locally pronounced
^Magadavy'), which is here compressed into a chasm 30 ft. wide
and plunges into the harbour from a height of 50 ft. St. George
exports lumber and fine red granite, quarried in the neighbourhood.
Good trout-fishing is obtained in Lake Utopia, 1 M. to the N. —
63 M. Bonny River (Sullivan, $ IY2)) a good trout-fishing centre;
62 M. Dyer's,
At (68 M.) St. Andrews Crossing we intersect the C.P.R. line
from McAdam Junction to St. Andrews. The distance to the latter
place, which is described below, is 17 M.
We now pass (77 M.) Oalc Bay, at the head of the inlet of the
St. Croix River so called (see p. 43), and soon reach —
82 M. St. Stephen (see p. 43).
b. By Steamer.
A steamer of the Eastern S.S. Co. pliea thrice weekly in sammer from
St. John to Eattpoft, where it connects with steamers for St. Andrews
(through-fare $1.30) and Calais (ior St. Stephen; $1.50^ 5 hrs. in all). See
daily papers or enquire at the steamboat-office.
St. John, see p. 27. On leaving the harbour, the steamer runs
well out into the Bay of Fundy (p. 23) and steers a little to the S.
of W. Beyond Split Rock Point opens Musquash Harbour (see above),
and farther on is Point Lepreaux (see above), with its double light
and steam- foghorn. We then cross the wide entrance of Mace's
Bay (see above), leaving Deer Island (p. 22) to the right.
At Eastport (see p. 22) we change to a steamer of the Frontier
Steamboat Co., which steers to the N., passing between Moose Island
and Deer Island (see above), and beyond Pleasant Point (1.), the
chief settlement of the Passamaq noddy Indians, enters Pa^sama-
quoddy Bay. Beyond Navy Island we enter the St. Croix River,
St. Andrews (* Algonquin^ a large summer-hotel, $ 3-6 ; Kennedy's,
$2; Central Exchange, $2; U.S. Agent, Mr. O.H.Stickney), a seaport
and summer-resort, with about 1390 inhab., is finely situated on
a peninsula between Passamaquoddy Bay and the St. Oroix River,
here 2 M. wide and separating New Brunswick from Maine. The
town lies on a gentle slope, rising to a height of 150 ft., while a
little farther back the hills are 100 ft. higher. Its attractions include
good sea-bathing and boating, golf-links, a summer climate cool and
comparatively free from fog, sea and fresh-water fishing, lobster-
to St. Andrews. ST. STEPHEN. 14. Route. 43
spearing, and fair roads for riding or driving. It is frequented by
many visitors from "both Canada and the United States. A fine "boat-
ing and bathing lake has been formed by a dam at Katie's Cove.
St. Andrews, wliicli was founded about 1783, lias a good liarbonr and
farmerly carried on a brisk trade with the West Indies.
One of the chief points of interest near St. Andrews is the Chamcook
3ft., 4 M. to the N., the base of which may be reached by road or railway.
The top commands a fine *View of Pauamaquoddy Bay. — Excursions may
also he made to Douced Island (see below) and to the little American
village of Robbinston, on the opposite side of the St. Croix. — Longer trips
may be made to Ecuiport (steamer daily in summer), Campdbello (p. 44),
and Grand Manan (p. 45). — From St. Andrews to McAdam Junction^ see p. 42.
The sail up the St. Croix Biver from St. Andrews to St. Stephen
(17 M.) is interesting and picturesque. To the left is seen the village
of Rohhinston (see above); to the right rises Chamcook Aft. (see
above). About 5Y2 M. above St. Andrews we pass (left) Doacet's
Island, the site of the first settlement in Acadia.
In 1604 the Sieur de MonU, to whom Henry IV. had made a grant of
Acadia, arrived in the St. Croix River at the head of an expedition which
included Champlain among its members and fixed upon the grassy Isle
St. Croix (now Doucet's Island) as the site of his settlement. A group of
wooden dwellings, defended by two batteries, was erected, and grain and
vegetables were planted. The crops, however, failed to ripen, and the
extreme cold of the winter was more than the ill-fed and ill-housed French-
men could stand. Scurvy broke out and carried off nearly half of the 80
settlers. When a supply-ship arrived in June, 16(6, the island was aban-
doned, and the unfortunate colonists took refuge in Port Royal (p. 75).
The only present inhabitants of the island are the keepers of the lighthouse.
In 17U8, when it was agreed that the St. Croix should be the boundary
between New Brunswick and the United States, the latter country claimed
that the Magaguadavic (p. 42) was the stream in question. The discovery
of some remains of the settlement of DeMonts, however, settled the matter
beyond dispute.
About 41/2 M. farther up, the river bends to the left (W.), while
Oak Bay opens out to the N., in the direction we have been moving
in. It has been supposed that the arrangement of the river and its
arms here suggested the name 'Croix*. To the left rises the DeviVs
Head (a corruption of DuvaVs or D'OroiUe's'). In 2^/2 M. more we pass
the fishing- village named The Ledge, and 4 M. beyond this lies —
St. Stephen (Windsor, Queen, $2; U.S. Consul, Mr. C, A.
McCullough), a busy little town with (1901) 2840 inhab., at the
head of navigation on the St Croix. Its chief activity is in shipping
lumber, but it also carries on a general trade and has a few manu-
factories. About 2 M. above St Stephen is the sister-town of Mill-
town (2044 inhab. in 1901), and on the opposite shore of the river
(bridge) is the American town of Calais (American House, Border
City, St Croix Exchange, $2), with (1900) 7656 inhab. and similar
interests to those of St Stephen. The cemetery of St Stephen is
shaded by fine white pines, many of which are remarkable for their
curious form.
From St. Stephen to McAdam Junction, see p. 25. — Steamers ply
regularly in summer from St. Stephen to St. Andrews (p. 42), Eastport (p. 22),
Campobello (p. 44), and Oremd Manan (p. 45). ^ ,
Digitized byCjOO^lC
44
15. Campobello and Grand Manan.
These two islands are conveniently treated of together, as they
are both reached vil Eastport (p. 22) , the routes to which town
are indicated at pp. 22, 42.
a. Campobello.
Small steamers ply from Eastport to (27$ M.) CampcMlo at frequent
intervals 0/shr. ; fare 25 c.)) while the Grand Manan steamers (p. 46) also
touch at Campobello. Tickets are issned to Campobello from all important
points, and baggage may be checked through. The ferry-steamers connect
with all passenger-steamers calling at Eastport.
Campobello (Tyn~o-Coed Hotel ^ with its annex the Tyn-o-
Mats, $3V2-5; OwenHotelj $2-2V2J TJ.S.Agent), an island 9-10 M.
long and 2-3 M. wide, lies between Pasaamaquoddy Bay and the Bay
of Fundyy just on the Canadian (New Brunswick) side of the inter-
national boundary. It is Irregular in shape, and its shores abound
in picturesque cliffs, chasms, fjords, and beaches. The interior is
covered with a dense growth of firs and larches, affording a pleasant
shade for the numerous walks and drives that have been made through
it in all directions. The climate is cool in summer, ranging from
50^ to 75** Fahr. From 1767 to 1880 the island belonged to Admiral
William Owen and his descendants, but in the latter year it was
purchased by a syndicate of New Yorkers and Bostonians, who have
spent large sums on its development, and it has lately become a
favourite summer-resort. There is a golf-course. In 1901 the number
of resident inhabitants was about 1200.
Excursions. To Hei-ring Cove Beach^ \*j\ M. The shady road crosses
Lake Glen Severn by a bridge 600 ft. long. The crescent-shaped beach is
3 M. long. We may return from its farther end by the Herring Cove
road, or by a bridle-path diverging to the left from that road and travers-
ing the wood. — To *ffe€td Harbor, 10 M. The road leads partly along
the coast and partly through the well-wooded interior. It passes the
famous Cold Spring y with a uniform temperature of 44% and Bunker Hill
(300 ft.), the top of which, reached hy a bridle-path, affords a 'View of
Grand Bfanan, the Wolves, and (on very clear days, with a telescope)
Nova Scotia. A detour may be made from this road to (2 M.) ^Schooner
Cove^ whence a path (good for s/4 M., when the Head comes in sight;
difficult trail thence) leads to (2 M.) Nancp Head^ a fine cliff, 210 ft. high,
with a pretty beach at its foot. Following the Head Harbor road a little
farther, we may diverge to the right to Mill Cove. (If we include tills
point, it is wise to bring luncheon and devote the whole day to the ex-
cursion.) — Nine Mile Drive (3 hrs.). We follow the Glen Severn road for
1 M. and then the Raccoon Beach road to the (ii/t M.) Raccoon Beach,
whence we may visit the wild Southern Head on foot (6 min.). Return-
ing to the road, we follow it to the right for 5 M. and return by either
the Fitxwilliam Road or the Narrows Road. — To ^ Man -of' War Head
(31/4 M.^ fine views). We proceed through Welchpool^ the largest hamlet
on the island, and then bear to the right over the North Road. The head
is a high rocky bluff at the entrance of Harbor de Lute, commanding a
good view. — To Eastei'n Head. From the end of the Herring Cove road
we descend rapidly to the left and cross a beach. A few minutes farther
on we follow a path to the right which leads to (20 min.) the summit
(300 ft.^ ^View). — Other points of interest are ^Friar's Head, Robhuan^s
Ravine, Jacob"* Ladder, Meadow Brook Cove, etc. r^^^^I^
Digitized by VjOOQIC
GRAND MANAN. 15. Boute. 45
ExGUBSiONS BT Watbb may be made to Dennytirilk^ Calais (p. 43),
St, Andrea* (p. 42), up the Magaguadavic River to St. George (p. 42}), Grand
Manan (see below), St, John (p. 27), and Mt. Desert (see Baedeker*s United
States).
SaiUngt Bowing^ and Canoeing are safe (though some knowledge of the
tides is desirable), and the Fishing is excellent.
b. Grand Kanan.
A steamer of the Grand Manan Steamboat Co. runs four times weekly
in summer (twice in winter) from Eagtport (p. 23), touching at Campdbello
(p. 44), to (12 M.) North Head, on the island of Grand ifonon (2 hrs. ; fare
$ 1). A weekly steamer also plies from St. John (p. 27) to Grand Manan via
Eastport and Gampobello.
Grand Kanan (accent on second syllable ; U.S. Agent, Mr.W. A.
Fraser'), an Island belonging to New Brunswick bnt lying about 8 M.
from tiie coast of Maine, near the entrance to Pasaamaquoddy ^ay
(p. 22), is 22 M. long and 3-8 M. wide and in 1 901 contained 2671 in-
habitants. It possesses some of the finest cliff-scenery in America,
while its cool (though somewhat foggy) climate and its fishing are
additional attractions to summer-visitors. The Island is traversed
from end to end by an excellent road. The main occupation of the
people is the cod, haddock, pollock, halibut, and herring fisheries.
North Headj the chief village and harbour of the island, lies on
FlaggU Cove, near the N. end of the E. side. In the vicinity is the
Marathon House ($ 1^2)1 the chief hotel on the island.
Following the road to the N. , we pass Sprague'a Cove or Peites'a
Cove, below SwaUowtail Head, and (2V2 M.) Whale Cove, with a
beach where porphyry, agates, and jasper may be picked up (fine
views). A little farther on is the Old Biahop or Biahop^a Head, the
N. extremity of the island.
The finest cliffs are at the S. end of the island. The road to
them from Flagg's Gove follows the shore more or less closely to
Caataliaj Woodward^ a Cove, and (5 M.) Or and Harbor, the last a
place of considerable trade. It then leaves the sea for a time, but
regains it at (51/2 M.) Seal Cove, the first place settled in the island,
whence it is continued to (4 M.) Deep Cove, From this point roads
lead to (1 V2 M.) *8outh Weat Head (lighthouse), where the cliffs rise
to a height of 300-400 ft., and to (2 M.) the Southern Croas.
The W. coast of the island consists of an almost unbroken range
of cliffs, 200-400 ft. high. A road crosses the island from Castalia
(see above) to *Dark Harbor, near which is Money Cove, where
Gapt. Eidd is fabled to have deposited some of his treasure. A little
to the N. is Indian Beach, where a number of Quoddy Indians pass
the summer engaged in the porpoise-fishery.
A number of small islands fringe the E. coast of Grand Manan,
while a little to the S. of it are Qannet Rock (the scene of many
terrible shipwrecks) and the Seal lalanda, each with a lighthouse.
yGoogk
46
16. From St. John to Montreal.
482 M. Canadian Pacific Railwat CShort Line^ in ibytYkta. (fare $ 14.40^
sleeper $ 250). This line traverses a good sporting dibtrict.
From 8t, John to (147 M.) Mattawamkeag (see below), see R. 8.
The Maine Central R.R. to Bangor and Boston here diverges to the
left. — 154 M. Chester; 168 M. Seboois; 180 M. Lake View. At
(190 M.) Broionville Junction we cross the Bangor & Aroostook Rail-
way. — 207 M. Onawa lies on the pretty lake of that name. About
5 M. to the S. lies Lake Sehec, Beyond Onawa we run through an
excellent sporting district, with numerous lakes and woods.
222 M. Oreenville {Moosehead Inn, Evoleth Houses $ 2-3), at
the S. end of Moosehead Lake (see below), the chief centre of the
spi^rtsmen and anglers who frequent the district (guides, canoes,
etc.). It is the junction of a railway to Bangor (see Baedeker's
United States).
*Koosehead Lake, the largest in Maine, with 400 miles of shore-line
(35 M. long, 1-15 M. wide), lies about lUOO ft. above the sea and is drained
by the Kennebec River. Its waters abound in trout and other fish, and
the forests surrounding it are well stocked with moose, caribou, deer, and
ruffled grouse. Black flies and mosquitoes are very troublesome here in
June and July. — From Greenville a small steamer plies in summer to (17 M.)
Mi. Kineo (1760 ft ; *View), which projects into the lake on the E. side,
so as to narrow it down to a channel 1 H. across. The *Mt, Kineo Houl
(from $3^ 500 beds) is a favourite resort of anglers and their families.
Opposite Mt. Kineo is Bireh Point (see below). The steamer goes on from
Ht. Kineo to (18 M.) the N. end of the lake, whence a portage of 2 M. leads
to the upper waters of the Penobscot River. Other steamers make the round
trip every week-day. Enterprising travellers may descend this river and
the lakes strung on it in birch-bark canoes (with- guides) to Mattatcamkeag
(see above; 6-8 days). Canoe -trips may also be made from the head of
Moosehead Lake viR the Allagcuh and St. John Rivers to Fo rt Kent or Van
Buren (see Baedeker's United States). A good view is obtained to the E.
of Mt. Ktaadn or Katahdin (5200 ft.), which is also visible from Moosehead
Lake (to the N.E.) in clear weather. Many other steamers ply on the lake.
Beyond Greenville the train runs along the W. side of the lake.
Near (234 M.) Moosehead (inns; guides) we cross the Kennebec and
have a last view (right) of Moosehead Lake. At (241 M.) Askwiih we
cross the new railway from Bingham (Maine) to Birch Point, on the
W. side of Moosehead Lake. Various small lakes and stations are
passed, all frequented for shooting and fishing (views to the right).
At (290 M.) Boundary we leave the State of Maine and enter
Canada. 307 M. Megantic (Victoria, $2; U. S. Con. Agent; guides),
on Lake Kegantic, a sheet of water 12 M. long and 1-4 M. wide,
a favourite resort of anglers and sportsmen. To the S.E. of it lies
the little Spider Lake, with the club-house of the Megantic Fish
and Game Club. Megantic is connected by the Quebec Central
Railway with (60 M.) Tring Junction, for Levis and Quebec (see
R. 4). — We now ascend a heavy grade, through a, well-wooded and
sparsely-settled district, to (332 M.) Scotstown, a lumber-settlement.
At (364 M.) Cookshire (U. S. Agent) we cross th^ Maine Central
Digitized by VjOOQIC
SHERBROOKE. 16. Route, 47
Railway. — 370 M. LennoxvillCy a village -with 1120 inhal)., is the
seat of Bishop's College (180 students) &nd Bishop's College School^
two well-known episcopal institutions, recently rebuilt since their
destruction hy fire (seen to the right of the line). It is the junction
of a line to Newport (p. 18). The stretch beyond Lennoxville, with
the St. Francis River to the right, is very picturesque.
376 M. Sherbrooke (Magog House, $2-3V2j New Sherbrooke,
$2-21/2) <3Tand Central, Contirumtal, Albion, $iy^2; V. S. Consul,
Mr. Paul Lang), a city with (1901) 11,766 inhab., very attractively
situated at the confluence of the St. Francis and the Magog, mainly
at some distance to the right of the railway, is the chief place in the
so-called ^Eastern Townships' (see below), which the railway now
traverses. It is the see of a Roman Catholic Bishop, has a college
with 250 students, and carries on numerous manufactures and a
trade in lumber. Within the town are the picturesque Rapids of the
Magog. We here cross the Quebec Central Railway (see p. 20) and
the Grand Trunk Railway (see p. 26).
The Eastern Townships were originidly settled by United Fmpire Loya-
lists, who adhered to Great Britain at the American Revolution, and form
the 'English' portion of the province of Quebec.
As we leave Sherbrooke we cross the river Magog, the outflow
of LakeMemphremagog (see below), and skirt it as it flows through
its picturesque wooded channel to the left.
394 M. Magog (p. 18) lies at the N. end of *Lake Memphre-
magog (see p. 18) and is called at by the steamer that makes the
circuit of the lake. To the left we obtain a good general view of
the lake, with its encircling mountains. At (412 M.) Foster (p. 19)
we cross the Sutton Junction and Drummondville branch of the
0. P. R. — 432 M. Brigham Junction, for the Montreal and Boston
Air Line to the White Mts. and Boston (R. 3 c); 438 M. Farriham
(Rail. Restaurant; see p. 19). From (451 M.) Iberville a branch-
line runs to St. Hyacinthe (p. 141) and Sorel (p. 141). At (462 M.)
St. John's (see p. 14) we cross the Richelieu (views). 456 M. Lacadie;
463 M. St. PhiUppe; 468 M. St, Constant. — 473 M. Adirondack
Junction, the station for Caughnawdga C1200 inhab.), at the S. end
of the Lachine Bridge (see below), to the left. Caughnawaga is an
Indian reservation and the home of the half-breed Iroquois remnant
of one band of the Six Nations (comp. p. 210).
These Indians are famous as lacrosse-players and boatmen; and a band
of fifty of them did excellent service in the latter capacity on the British
expedition that ascended the Nile in 1884. The town-walls, built by the
French in 1721, are almost intact on three sides of the older part ol the
village, round the Church. The Pi'esbytery, built in 1725, contains the once
miracle-working remains of the Mobawk Saint Tehgahkwfta, the room and
desk of the historian P^re Charlevoix, and some valuable vestments.
"We now cross the St. Lawrence by the light and graceful "^Lachine
Bridge (views), built of steel, on the cantilever principle. The
channel-spans are each 408 ft. long. Below, to the rUht, are the
Digitized by VjOOQIC
48 Route 17. ROTHESAY.
*Lachin6 Bapids fp. 230). Just beyond the bridge is the little town
of Lacbine (p. 230; left), with its large convent. From (477 M.)
Montreal Junctionj where our line is joined on the right by the lines
from Toronto, Ottawa, etc., the train runs towards the E. to —
482 M. Montreal (Windsor Street Station ; see R. 28).
17. From St. John to Quebec (Livis).
677 M. iNTEECOLONiAL RAILWAY in I6V4-I8V2 hrs. (fare $ 11.75; sleeper
$ 2.50). [To Montreal in 21-28 hrs. ; fare $ 14.50, sleeper $ 2.50.]
8t. John, see R. 10. The first part of the line, running along
the bank of the Eennebecasis Bay and River, is picturesque and
interesting, but beyond Sussex it traverses a well-settled farming-
district offering no scenic beauty. — The railway runs for a mile
or two through a marshy valley till it reaches the bay. 3 M. Cold-
hrookj an industrial suburb of St. John. At (7 M.) Biverride we
overlook the Kennebecasis Rowing Course, the scene of many famous
races. 9 M. iJot/iwai/ (Belleview, $lV2-2; Kennedy, $1V2), delight-
. fully situated on the E. shore of KennebecasU Bay, is perhaps the
most popular summer-residence and resort of the St. John people.
The bay now gradually contracts into the Kennebecasis Biver. — 22 M.
Hampton (Heath Hall, $172-2), with 2026 inhab. and the summer-
homes of many citizens of St. John, is the junction of a line running
to the S. to (28 M.) Quaco and (30 M.) St. Martin's (Kennedy's,
ay^ii on the Bay of Fundy. — 33 M. Norton is the junction of a
branch-line to (46 M.) Chipman, on Grand Lake (p. 36). 40 M.
Apohaqui, with mineral springs. 44 M. Sussex (Depot House, $ l^/g)
is a busy little town with 1400 inhab. and a military camp. The
railway now ascends to (55 M.) Dunsinane (160 ft.), on the *height
of land' between the Kennebecasis and the Petitcodiac River (see
below). We then descend to (66 M.) Petitcodiac (Mansard Honse,
$ 1-2), on the river of that name, the junction of lines to Elgin and
Havelock, The latter is near Canaan Biver, a good trout-stream. —
72 M. Biver Qlade, near the Pallet Biver Falls. — 76 M. Salisbury,
a village with a few hundred inhabitants.
Fbom Salisbdbt to Albebt, 45 M., Salisbury A Harvey RaUaay in
3 hrs. (fare $ 1.35). This line rnns towards the S.E. and reaches the
Petitcodiac, flowing between its fertile salt-marshes, at (24 H.) HiUshoro
(Empire House, $ IVa)) a town of (1901) 2907 inhab., with manulactures
and exports of plaster. The singular ffopetcell Cape Rocks are most easily
reached from this station (8 H.). — 29 M. Albert Mines was once important
for its mines of ^Albertite' coal, perhaps the most valuable coad ever known
(now exhausted). 42 M. Hopewell Hitl^ near Hopewell Cape (p. 87); 44 M.
Riverside; 45 M. Albert (terminus), all on or near the arm of the Bay of
Fundy into which the Petitcodiac flows. Harvey lies 3 M. from Albert.
The next station of importance is (89 M.) Honcton (p. 87), where
we join the main line of the Intercolonial Railway from Halifax.
From this point to (677 M.) Quebec, see R. 24.
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III. NOVA SCOTIA.
Route Page
18. Halifax 50
Environs of Halifax 58
19. From Halifax to Sydney. Cape Breton. Bras d'Or Lakes.
LouisbouTg 69
a. By Railway 69
From Ferrona to Sunny Brae 59
From Stellarton to Pictou 59
Antigonish Mts. and Arisaig Peninsula 61
From Point Tupper to St. Peter's 02
From Point Tupper to Inverness 62
b. By Steamer 63
Arichat 65
Environs of Baddeck. Whycocomagh 66
Sydney Coal Fields 69
Louisbourg 69
20. From Halifax to St. John 71
a. Vi&Dlgby 71
Evangeline District 73
From Eentville to Eingaport 74
From Eingsport to Parrsboro 74
b. Vi& Mabone, Bridgewater, Middleton, and Victoria
Beach 77
c. Vi&Moncton 77
21. From Halifax to Yarmouth 78
a. By Halifax and South Western Railway .... 78
Lake Rossignol 79
b. By Steamer 80
22. From Digby to Yarmouth 82
23. From Windsor to Truro 82
24. From Halifax to Quebec 83
Environs of Truro 84
From Oxford Junction to Pictou. Parrsboro. Joggins
Shore 86
Ghignecto Ship Railway. Fort Beausj^our and Fort
Lawrence. From Sackville to Cape Tormentine and
Cape Traverse 86
Shediac and Point du ChSne. From Moncton to Buc-
touche. Bichibucto and St. Louis 87,88
The Miramichi 88
From Chatham to Fredericton 89
From Gloucester Junction to Shippegan 89
The Bestigouche. Bale des Chaleurs. Oasp^ Peninsula 90
From Matapedia to New Carlisle and Pasp^biac ... 91
littie M^tis 93
From Riviere du Loup to Connors 95
Babdskxb's Canada. 3rd Edit, Digitized4^00QlC
50
18. Hal i fax.
ArrivAl. The Intercolonial Station (PI. E, 1), at wbicli all trains arrive,
lies on the N. side of the city, abont 1 H. from the principal hotels.
Gabs and hacks meet the train (fare 60 c. for 1-2 pers., 26 c. for each addit.
pers., V2 <^^* of luggage included), and the tramway along Lockman St. and
Barrington St. passes close to the station and near the hotels. The hotels
do »ot generally send omnibuses or representatives to meet their guests. —
Cabs are also in waiting on the Steamboat Whctrvet (fare 26 c. each pers.). —
It should be remembered that Nova Scotia time, as observed at Halifax
and throughout the province, is the Atlantic Standard time, 1 hr. ahead
of Eastern Standard time (p. xii).
Hotels. Halifax Hotel (PL a; E,4), 97-103 Hollis St., recenUy refitted,
$21/2-3; Queen (PI. b; E, 4), 114-115 Hollis St., $2-2i/t; King Edwabd
(PI. e i E, 1), opposite the railway-station, $ IV2-2V25 Waveeley (PI. c ; D, 5),
174 Pleasant St., $2V«i Gbosvknob, 7 Hollis St. (PI. D, 4). these two fre-
quented by many who prefer quiet*, Acadian (PI. d; B, 4), 88 Granville
St., $ 11/4; Cableton (temperance), 63 Argyle St. (PI. E,4), $2Vt, B. from
$1 J Albion (PI. f-, E, 4), 20 Sackville St., $M»/t; Boyal (PI. gj E, 3),
119 Argyle St., $ IVi-lVai Lobnb, 81 Morris St. (PI. D, 5), $ IV2. — •BiBOHAm-
Bloomingdalb, two houses in charming grounds on the North West Arm
(p. 59), V4-V2 ^^' ^7 tramway from the centre of the city, adapted for a
long stay, ^2%-S.
Bestauyants. Mitchell (confectioner). 25 George St. ; Teat^ 82 Barrington
St. : Bamsj 32 Salter St. ; Woolnough. 16B Hollis St.
Oabs. For each pers. IH. 26 c., li/tM. 30c., 2H. 40c., 2VflH. 45c.,
3 H. 50 c.; half-fare in returning; 1/4 hr. waiting free, each addit. >/4 hr.
16 c.-, per hr. 76 c.; with two horses $1. Between midnight and 6 a. m.
(7 a. m. in winter) by agreement, not to exceed double fare. From railway-
station or wharf, see above. — Tramways traverse the entire city from N.
to S., with various branch-lines (fare 5c. ; six tickets 25c.). — Observation
Carriages (Robinson't Tourist Sertfice), leaving the Post Office (p. 54) at
9.30 a.m. and 2.30 p.m., take in all the points of interest (8 hrs. ; fare 5Uc.).
Steamers ply regularly from Halifax to Itince Edward hland (p. 9T),
Sydney (p. 67), Port Mulgrove (p. 61), Newfoundland (p. 102), Bridgewattr
(p. 81) , Lunenburg (p. 81) , St. Pierre and Miquelon (p. 124) , Yarmouth
(p. 80), Boston (B. 7c), New York, Baltimore^ Liverpool (see B. lb), London
(B. lb), Okugotc (B. Id), Havre, Bermuda^ Jamaica^ Mexico^ Havana, and
many other ports. — Ferry Steamer to Dartmouth (p. 68) every 1/4 hr. —
Harbour Excurtion Steamer s^ see p. 59. Gomp. also advertisements in news-
papers and at hotels.
Amusements. Academy of Music (PI. D, 4), Barrington St.; Orpheus
Hall (concerts, etc.), Granville St. — Skating Rink^ Tower Boad rmilitary
concerts); Curling Rink, Tower oad; Oarrison Cricket Ground, Qninpool
St.; Wanderers^ Amateur Athletic Association, see p. 57; Studley Quoit CUA.
— Begattas held weekly in summer by the boating-clubs mentioned below.
Royal Nova Scotia Yacht Squadron (PI. D, 6), at the end of Pleasant St. ;
Wanderers^ Boat Club, at the foot of Morris St. (PI. E, 6); Lome Amateur
Aquatic Club; North West Arm Routing Club; Halifax Amateurs Boating Clnb.
Small boats may be hired at the North Slip (PI. E, 2), at the Ferry Slip
(PI. E, 4), and at Luke^s, Freshwater Esplanade (PI. D, 6). — Bcmd Concerts
in the Public Gardens (Sat. afternoon) and at Green Bank (entr. to Point
Pleasant Park, p. 66). — Anglers s ould consult the pamphlet issued gratis
by the Board of Trade (see p. 51).
Olubs. HaHfax Club (PI. 5; E, 4), 172 Hollis St.; City Club (PI. 4;
D, 4), 32 Barrington St. ; Saraguay Country Club, on the North West Arm;
Micmac Country Club, on the Sambro Boad; Royal Nova Scotia Yacht Squa-
dron, see above.
(Jonsuls. U. S. Consul-General, Mr. William R. Holloway, Herald Building,
cor. of Granville A George Sts. — French Consular Agent Mr. 0. E. FraneJUyn,
193 Upper Water St. — Austrian Consul, Mr. H. L. Chipman, 18 Sackville St.
— German Consul, Mr. McCallum Grant. — Italian Consul, Mr. W. J. Fisher,
St Paul Building, Barrington St. r^^^^A^
Digitized by VjOOQIc
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Situation. HALIFAX. 18. Route. 51
Post Office (PI. E, 4), Hollis St., corner of George St. (open 5 a.m.
to 11 p.m.).
Information Bureau. Visitors desiring informat'on about the city and
firovince are invited to call at the rooms of the Board of Trcule. cor. of
oilis St. and Sackville St. (PI. E, i).
Halifax , the capital and largest city of Nova Scotia , is beau-
tif uUy situated on the S. E. coast of the province, in 44® 69' 22" N.
lat. and 63® 35' 30" W. long., on the E. slope of a small rocky pen-
insula, enclosed by its splendid harbour (see p. 56), Bedford Basin
(p. 83 J, and the so-called N. W. Arm (p. 69). It is the chief naval
and military headquarters of British North America and was long
the only garrison of British regular troops in Canada. The military
command of the city vp^as taken over by the Dominion Government
in 1905-6, and the garrison now consists of Canadian troops. The
formidable fortifications of the town and harbour have won for
it the name of the ^Gronstadt of America* (see p. 63). Halifax is
also the seat of the Roman Catholic Archbishop of Halifax and the
AngUcan Bishop of Nova Scotia. Its position as the chief winter-
harbour of Canada, as the nearest American port to Great Britain
(2170 M. to Cape Clear), and as the E. terminus of the Canadian
railway- system makes it of great commercial importance ; and it also
carries on various manufactures (see p. 52). The proximity of the
coal-fields of Nova Scotia and Cape Breton makes it an invaluable
coaling-station for the British fleet, while its fisheries are also very
extensive. In 1901 Halifax contained, exclusive of the Imperial
troops, 40,832 inhab. (one-third Roman Catholics), giving it the
seventh place among Canadian cities.
The city, which covers an area 3 M. long by 1 M. wide, is laid
out with considerable regularity but makes on the whole a rather
dingy and shabby impression. Few of the streets are paved , and
many of the buildings are still flimsy-looking wooden structures,
though great improvements are now in continual operation. Hollia
and Barrington Streets, the chief business-thoroughfares, are lined
for the most part by substantial buildings j and some of the chief
residence-streets, with their shady avenues, are very attractive. The
great beauty of the situation and environment, however, entirely
outweighs any defects in detail. The characteristics of the social
life of what claims to be *the most British city in America' have
been largely influenced by the presence of the British naval and
military officers} while the red- coats and blue-Jackets still form a
picturesque element in the streets. Halifax is said to be one of the
richest, as it is one of the most charitable, cities of its size on the
Continent. The climate is healthy and not so extreme as that of in-
land points on the same parallel (range from —10® to +90®Fahr.).
History. The fact that the safe and capacious Bay of Chebueto ('chief
haven**) was the American rendezvous of the ill-fated expedition of
D^Anville in 1746 led to the demand of the Massachusetts colonists that
a point of such strategic importance should be occupied by Imperial
forces. The British Lords of Trade saw the wisdom of acceding to ^j^
52 Route 18, HALIFAX. HUtory.
request and accordingly sent oat a body of 2376 emigrants, under the
Hon. Edward ComwallU^ Oovemor of Kova Scotia, who landed in Jnne,
1749, and gave the name of Halifax to the new settlement in honour of
the Earl of Halifax , then President of the Board of Trade and Plan-
tations. In spite of the nominal submission of the Acadians and Indians,
these allies for a time did all in their power to harass the infant colony ;
and in 1761 the savages destroyed th^e village of Dartmouth (p. 58),
which had been planted on the oilier side of the bay. In 1761-62 about
600 Germans were added to the population (comp. p. 68). Halifax grew
steadily in importance as a naval station \ it was the rendezvous of the
powerful fleet and army that captured Louisbourg in 1753 (see p. 70)
and also of Wolfe's armament botn before and after the siege of Quebec
(1759). During the American Revolution, Halifax was one of the chief
bases of operation against the revolting Colonies, and the war of 1812-3
also brought considerable benefit to the town. During the American
Civil War, Halifax Harbour was the starting-point of numerous blockade-
runners, and many of its citizens are said to have laid the foundations
of their fortunes at this time. The population of Halifax was estimated
at 6000 a few years after its founaation, but afterwards sank to 3000.
through the attraction exercised on the citizens by the l^ew England
colonies. At the close of the American Revolutionary War the population
rose to 12,000, but it was not much more than a third of this seven years
later. During the present century the growth has been steady though
comparatively slow. The population rose from 14,^22 in 1838 and 20,749
in 1851 to 26,126 in 1861, to 29,682 in 1871, to 36,100 in 1881, and to 38,566
in 1891. — The Halifax Ocuette^ established in 1752, was the first Canadian
newspaper.
Industry and Commerce. The chief imports at Halifax are manufactur-
ed articles from England, produce from the United States, and sugar
and molasses from the West Indies. The exports include dried fish, lob-
sters, lumber, apples, agricultural and dairy produce, whale and seal oil,
and furs. The total value of its exports in the year ending June SOth,
1905, was $8,4U,149 (1,688,830;.) and of its imports $8,187,740 (1,637,660{.)
In the same year the vessels that entered and cleared the port had a total
burden of 2.859,513 tons. — The industries of Halifax include iron-found-
ing, brewing, distilling, sugar-refining, and the manufacture of machinery,
agricultural implements, cotton and woollen goods, paper, musical instru-
ments, gunpowder, tobacco, soap, candles, brushes, paint, chocolate, and
spices.
The Province of Nova Scotia, of which Halifax is the capital, has
an extreme length of 360 M., with an average breadth of about 66 M. Its
area is 20,600 sq. H., equal to more than two-thirds of that of Scotland.
The province, which consists of the peninsula of Nova Scotia proper and
of the large island of Cape Breton, is almost wholly surrounded by water,
being connected with the mainland (New Brunswick) by a low isthmus
about 15 M. wide. No part of Nova Scotia is more than 30 M. distant
from the coast. The surface is considerably varied in contour but nowhere
exceeds 1200 ft. in height. The chief features are the Cobequid Hts. (jp. 84)
and other ridges running parallel with the length of the peninsula. The
coast-line towards the Atlantic is very irregular and contains many good
harbours. On the W. side it is more even. The E. or seaward side of
Nova Scotia is for the most part barren and rocky; the best lands, such
as the fruitful Annapolis Valley (p. 75), are on the side nearest the
mainland. About one-sixth of the entire area is in crops or under pastur-
age. Wheat, oats, and fruit (especially apples) are among the chief
products of the soil. Cattle-rearing and dairy-farming are also carried
on. Lumbering is less important than formerly, owing to the exhaustion
of the best timber. Manufactures are comparatively undeveloped. The
mineral wealth of the province is great, including coal (comp. pp. 69, 60,
86), iron, gypsum, and gold. One of the chief industries of Nova Scotia
is the fisheries, which are very large and valuable, employing over 14,000
boats and 25,000 men. The value of the total catch in 1903, chiefly con-
Digitized by VjOOQIC
Citadel. HALIFAX. 18. Route. 53
sisting of cod, mackerel, lobsters, herring, and haddock, was $ 7,841,602,
or nearly one-third of that of the total catch of Canada. In 1905 Kova Scotia
owned 2066 ships of 211,972 tons burden, or about 80 per cent of the total
shipping of Canada. The population of the province m 1901 was 459,674,
the Dulk of whom consist, in nearly equal proportions, of persons of
English and Scottish descent, after whom come the Irish, French, and Ger-
mans. — Nova Scotia was originally colonized by the French, whose
first settlement was made in 1605 (comp. pp. xxii, 75). Along with New
Brunswick and Prince Edward Island, it was included under the name
of Acadia (PAcadie or La Cadie) , a name derived from a Hicmac word
*ak^de% indicating 'abundance'. The exact scope of this title, however,
was hotly disputed when Acadia was ceded to the English (see p. 86). The
name of Nova Scotia first appears in a charter granted by James L to Sir
William Alexander in 1621. The present French inhabitants of the pro-
vince are descendants of the original French settlersf most of whom,
however, were expelled in 1755 (comp. p. 73). Among other outstanding
events in the history of the province are the two sieges of Louisbourg
(1745 and 176S; see p. 1% the foundation of Halifax in 1749 (p. 52), and
the immigration of the United Empire Loyalists about 1784 (comp. p. 79).
Prince Edward Island was separated from Nova Scotia in 1770, and New
Brunswick in 1784. Nova Scotia was one of the four provinces which
originally joined in the Confederation of 1867.
The most conspicuous single feature in Halifax is undoubtedly
the *Citadel (PI. D, 3), which occupies the crown of the peninsula,
255 ft. above the sea; and tourists cannot better begin their
Tisitation of the city than by seeking the view which this elevated
site commands. Those who start from either of the two chief hotels
in Hollis St. reach the citadel most directly by ascending Sackville
Street (PI. D, 4), near the head of which, to the right, at the corner
of Brunswick St., stands Halifax County Academy or High School
(PI. D, 4), a large and handsome building in red brick. Opposite,
and adjoining each other, are the extensive Barracks of the Royal
Carmdian Engineers and ArtiUery (PI. D, 4). Strangers are usually
allowed to enter the citadel on application at the guard-house (gratu-
ity to guide for 1-2 pers., ca. 25 c. ; no cameras allowed). A good
idea of its strength may be obtained by an external survey of its
glacis, its deep moat, its heavily-armed bastions, and its massive
masonry. On the slope below the entrance is a small structure
erected as a Town Clock^ and now occupied by Government.
The original defences of Halifax consisted of a wooden palisade and
block-houses, the lines of which are roughly indicated by the present
Salter, Barrington, and Jacob Sts. (comp. PI. D, E, 3, 4). A systematic re-
construction of the entire series of fortifications was begun at the time
of the Revolutionary War. Citadel Hill seems to have been first regularly
fortified about 1778, but the nucleus of the present fortress is due to the
Duke of Kent, who was Commander of the Garrison in 1794-7, while
almost every subsequent year has seen alterations and additions. The
Imperial garrison of Halifax usually amounted to about 2000 men, but it
is now somewhat reduced.
The *Yiew from outside the S. E. bastion includes the central part
of the city; the beautiful harbour, with its shipping and fortified islands
(comp. p. 56) \ the town of Dartmouth (p. 58) , on the opposite side of
the harbour, with its large lunatic asylum ^ the fortifications at the mouth
of the harbour; and the distant ocean beyond. By walking round the
outside of the ramparts, we may survey every part of the city in turn, backed
by the North West Arm (p. 59) towards the W. and by Bedford Basin
54 Route 18, HALIFAX. Pafliament Building.
(p. 83) towards the N. At the S. W. base of the Gitftdel HiU lie the
Pahlic Gardens (p. 67) and the Athletic Grounds of the Wanderers'
Club (p. 67); to the W. are the Common (p. 67) and the Garrison Cricket
Grounds (p. 60).
From the Citadel we may now return to Hollis St. yi^ Bwking-
ham Street (PI. E, 3), noticing the Glacis or Pavilion Barracks
(PI. D, E, 3), at the N. end of the glacis, with the quarters for the
married men. Following Hollis Stbbbt (PI. D, E,4,5), with its banks,
insnrance-offlces, and shops, towards the S. (right), we soon reach
(leftj the Dominion Building, a substantial pile of brown freestone
on a granite basement, containing the Post Office (PL D, 4). Just
below the Dominion Building, at the corner of Bedford Row and
Market St., is thfe new Custom House (Fl. E, 4), a handsome struc-
ture of native freestone. Opposite, in the 0. P. R. building at the
S. corner of Market St., is the Brovineial Museum (PI. 7; E, 4).
The maseam (open free on week-days, 104) contains specimens illustrat-
ing the zoology, botany, and mineralogy of Kova Scotia, Indian curios,
historical relics, and a few portraits. A gilt pyramid represents the amount
of gold produced by the province in i862-9a (valued at $ iO,800,90Q).
Nearly opposite the Dominion Building stands the ^Provincial
Parliament Building (PI. 6; B, 4), a sombre but somewhat im-
posing stone building, finished in 1818 and surrounded by a small
tree-planted square. The Legislature generally meets in February.
At the S. end of the building is the Chamber of <A« Legittative Council,
with portraits of George II. and Queen Caroline) George III. and Queen
Charlotte, WiUiam IV., Sir Thomas Strange (by BenJ. West) , Judge Hal-
iburton ('Sam Slick^; p. 72), Sir W. Fenwick Williams (a native of Nova
Scotia), the heroic defender of Ears, and Sir John Inglis (a native of
Halifax), the defender of Lucknow. Here also is a tablet to the memory
of John Cabot (d. ca. 1498). — The House of Aitembly, at the K. end, has
portraits of Joseph Howe and J. W. Johnston. — The Library, in the centre
of the building, contains a good collection of books relating to Kova Scotia
and some interesting MS. records. — In the small Council Chamber is the
table round which Cornwallis and his associates assembled when holding
the first meeting of the new Council of Kova Scotia on board the ^Beaufort'
(July 14th, 1749 i comp. p. 62).
To the N. of the Parliament Building is the South African Mc
morial (PI. 8; E, 4), commemorating Nova Scotians who fell in the
Boer War (1899-1902). In a corresponding position to the S. is a
Statue of Joseph Howe (1804-73; PI. 9, E 4), *joumali8t, orator,
poet, statesman, prophet, patriot, Briton'.
A little farther along Hollis St., to the right, is the substantial
home of the Halifax Club (p. 50), while on the opposite side of
the way, in the next block, are the Queen and Halifax Hotels
(p. 50). To the right, near Bishop St., are the grounds of Govern-
ment Honse (PI. D, 4), the residence of the Lieutenant-Governor,
the front of which faces Pleasant Street. The building dates from
1800-1805.
About 74 M. farther on, Hollis St. ends at the Engineers' Yard
(PI. D, 5), usually known as the Lumber Yard. In the meantime
we may turn to the right and follow Pleasant Street (PI. D, 5) back
towards the centre of the city. To the left lie the Presbyterian
St. Paul's Oiurch, HALIFAX. 18. Route. 55
Ladies* College and the Waverley Hotel (PL c, D 5 ; p. 50). A little
farther on, to the right, is Oovemment House (p. 54), opposite
which is 8t, PauVs Old Churchyard (PI. D, 4), with a monnment,
surmounted by a carved lion, to the memory of two Nova Scotian
officers killed in the Crimea. 8t» Matthew*8 Ptesbyterian Church
(PI. 1 ; D, 4), to the right, has a lofty spire. It is adjoined by the
Brigade Office and the Academy of Music (PI. D, 4; p. 50). Oppo-
site the last is the Otebe Houte^ the residence of the clergy of the
adjacent *8t, Mary's Cathedral (PI. D, 4; R. C), in Spring Garden
Road, the most conspicuous ecclesiastical edifice in Halifax, with
an elaborate granite facade and a tall white spire. The interior is
decorated with painting and gilding.
Spring Garden Road (PL 0, D, 4) leads to the W. from this pointy pass-
ing the Court House (PI. D, 4), with the County Oaol behind it; Bellevue
Houtey the ofAcial residence of the Ck>mmander-in-chief, at the corner of
Queen St. (PL D, 4); and the Fint Baptist Church (PL D, 4). Farther np
it skirts the Publio (hardens (p. 57).
Pleasant St. now changes it name to Barrington Street (PI. D,
£, 4, 3). To the right diverges Salter St., with the Masonic Hall.
To the left (No. 32) is the Qty Club (PI. 4, D 4; p. 60), between
St. Mary's HaU and the Church of England InstituU (PI. 2; D, 4).
We then cross Sackville St. (p. 53), pass the St. Paul Building^
and soon reach the Qrand Parade^ occupying a terraced site but-
tressed by a wall of massive masonry. At the S. end of the Parade
stands St. Fanl'B Churoli (PI. E, 4), a large wooden structure, built
in 1750 (the year after the foundation of Halifax) on the model of
St. Peter's, Vere St., London.
Strangers should visit the interior of this old church for the sake of
its interesting collection of mural tablets and monuments to the memory
of distinguished Haligonians, Kova Scotians, and others. In the E. gallery
is that of Baron de Seitz, a Hessian officer who died here in 1778 and was
buried in St. Paul's in full regimentals.
St. Paul's was long used as the cathedral of Halifax, but in later years
the pro-cathedral was St. LukeU^ which Was burned down in 1905.
At the opposite end of the Parade stands the handsome new
City Hall (P1.E, 3, 4), occupying the site of the original building of
Dalhousie College (p. 57). — Farther on, Barrington St. becomes
Lockman Street (PI. E, 3, 2) and runs out to the Railway Station
(PI. E, 1), beyond which it makes a final change of name to Camp'
bell Road (PI. E, 1).
QranvUle Street (PI. E, 4), parallel to and between HoUis St,
and Barrington St., is one of the chief business-streets of Halifax
and contains some important shops, newspaper -offices, etc. At
its intersection with Prince St. stands the substantial building of
'the Young Men's Christian Association (PI. 3;E,4), with its reading-
room and library.
Lower Water Street (PI. D, E, 5, 4), beginning at the Engineers*
Yard (p. 54), and Upper Water Street (PI. E, 3, 2) skirt the water-
side, with its innumerable docks, wharves, and warehouses. The
Green Market ^ held at the corner of George St. ^on^ Sa
56 Route 18, HALIFAX. Harbour,
should be visited. Tlie French Acadian, the native Micmac, and
the dusky African, selling their wares here, combine to make &
scene full of colour and interest. At the point where Lower Water
Street ends and Upper Water St. begins extends Ordnance Yard
(PI. E, 3), with its large stores of guns, ammunition, and other
warlike material. Farther on, opposite the Long or Railway Wharf,
is a Grain Elevator (PI. E, 2), with a capacity of 500,000 bushels.
— To the right, a little farther on, is the Dockyard (PI. E, 1, 2;
strangers usually admitted on application; gratuity to guide, for
1-2 pers., ca. 25c.; no cameras allowed), I672 acres in extent,
founded in 1758 and surrounded by a high stone wall. It contains
extensive store-houses, machine-shops, and magazines, and all the
usual appliances of a flrst-class dockyard. The Hospital Yard, with
the Marine Hospital (PI. E, 2), practically forms part of the Dock-
yard. — Opposite lies the Intercolonial Railway Station (PI. E, 1). —
A little farther to the N. is the huge Dry Dock, the largest in Canada,
being 610 ft. long and 102 ft. wide. It cost $1,000,000.
The •Harbour (PI. 0-E, 1-7), 6 M. long,with an average width
of 1 M., affords excellent deep-water anchorage at all states of the
tide and is effectively sheltered by Macnab*s and George's Islands.
On the N. it communicates with Bedford Basin (p. 83) by a deep
channel known as the Narrows, The harbour is usually alive with
all kinds of shipping, and on a bright day presents a sight that will
linger long in the memory. Halifax is occasionally visited by British
men-of-war during the summer. Visitors are generally welcomed
on board and may take boat at the North Slip (PI. E, 2; fare 25 c.).
The harbour-fortifications are of immense strength. The green and
inoffensive-looking George's Island, opposite the Ordnance Yard, is,
perhaps, under modem conditions of warfare, a more formidable
fort than the citadel itself. It interlaces its fire with Fort Clarence,
on the opposite shore. On Maenab's Island, at the mouth of the
harbour, is Wince's Battery Fort, which crosses its fire with that of
York Redoubt, situated on a high bluff on the W. shore. On Sanibro
Island, off the mouth of the harbour, is Fort Spion Kop. There are
other strong batteries in Point Pleasant Park (see below), while the
entrance is further protected by an extensive system of submarine
mines and torpedoes.
The ♦View of Halifax from the harbour is in its own way as fine as
that from the citadel and should be secured by every visitor (afternoon light
best) sunsets often superb). The view may also be enjoyed from a small boat
(see p. 50) or firom the deck of the ferry- steamer to Dartmouth (see p. 58).
Excursion steamers, see p. 58.
The S. continuation of Pleasant St. (see p. 54) leads through the*
district of Freshwater to ♦Point Pleasant Park (Pl.B, C, 6, 7; tram-
way to Green Bank, PI. C, 6), occupying the extremity of the penin-
sula on which the city lies and recalling in its location Stanley Park
at Vancouver (p. 286). The park, which is 160 acres in extent,
is traversed by numerous excellent roads and paths, andj the drive
Digitized by VjOOQIC
Dalhousie CoUege. HALIFAX. 18. RotUe. 57
round its outer margin commands exquisite views of the harbour
and of the N. W. Arm (p. 69). Several masked batteries are con-
cealed among its groves of pine and fir, and on the summit of the
ridge is an old martello tower known as the Prince of Walea' Tower.
On the N.W. Arm (p. 59), just beyond the W. limit of the park, is
the old Penitentiary (PI. B, 6), now used as part of the works of the
People's Heat & Light Go.
We may leave the park by the Young Avenue ErUrance (PI. 0,6),
with its handsome gates, and make our way via the shady South
Park Street (PI. 0, 5, 4) to the Public Gardens, passing the Cem-
etery of the Holy Croat (PI. 0, D, 4, 5; with a chapel said to have
been erected in one day), the School for the Blind (PI. 0, 4; visi-
tors admitted on Wed. afternoon^ , and the Old Exhibition Building
(PI. 0, 4j skating-rink in winter).
The "Tnblic Gardens (PL 0, D, 3, 4), about 14 acres in extent,
and somewhat recalling the Boston Public Garden, deservedly
form one of the chief sources of Haligonian pride, and present a
highly attractive picture, vrith their beautiful shade -trees, well-
trimmed sward, picturesque lake, and gay flower-beds. The show of
flowers is especially brilliant in Aug. and the first half of September*
A military band plays here in summer on Sat. (4-6 p.m.), and il-
luminated evening- fetes are held from time to time.
On the N. the Public Gardens are adjoined by the Athletic
Orounds of the Wanderers* Club (PI. D, 3), and beyond these stretches
the Common (PI. D, 2, 3), a piece of Government property on which
sham-fights and military reviews are occasionally held. At the N.W.
. comer of the Common is a large Drill Hall and Armoury (PI. D, 2),
a massive turreted structure in Nova Scotia sandstone, completed
in 1899 and making an imposing appearance.
Farther to the N.W., at the comer of Windsor St. and Almon
St., is the New Exhibition Building (PI. 0, 1) , where an agricul-
tural and industrial fair is held every autumn.
To the S. of the Public Gardens stands the Convent of the Sacred
Heart (PI. 0,4), beyond which are the grounds containing the large
Poor Asylum (PI. 0, 4) and the Victoria General Hospital (PI. 0, 4).
— Spring Garden Road (p. 54), skirting the S. side of the Gardens,
ends on the W. at Robie St., where are a Methodist Church and
St. Stephen's or the Bishop's Chapel (PI. 0, 3).
A little to the S. of this point, in the block enclosed by Robie,
Morris, Oarlton, and Oollege Sts., stands ^Dalhonsie College (PI.
0, 4), a large and handsome building of red brick , with a central
tower, erected in 1886-87. The Medical CoUege Building is in the
adjoining block.
Dalhousie College and University was founded in 1821 by the Earl
of Dalhousie, then Governor-Qeneral of Canada. The original endowment
was derived from funds collected at the port of Castine, in Maine, during
its occupation by the British in 1812-14. Since then its endowments have
been greatly increased by the liberality of Mr. Oeorge Muwro (of New York),
58 Route 18, DARTMOUTH.
Ml'. Mexander McLeod^ Sir William Young, and other generous Kova Sco-
tians. The nresent charter of the University, which is undenominational,
dates from 1863, with subsequent modifications. The President is Dr. John
Forrest. The original building of the college stood on the site of the
Oity Hall (see p. 65).
The University includes faculties of arts, law, medicine, and science,
and is attended by about 360 regular and special students. It is well
appointed in every way and possesses excellent laboratories and a good
law-library. The "Collection of Nova Scotia Birds, including a specimen
of the rare red duck (Fulizula Labradora), is of great interest. The valu-
able Akint Collection of books and pamphlets relating to the £. Prov-
inces of British North America has been temporarily deposited in Dalhousie
College.
Qottmgm Street (Pi. D, 3, 2, 1) leads towards the N. from Citadel
Hill. Immediately to the right is the Military Hospital (Pi. D, 3),
with the Oarrison Chapel (PI. E, 3) behind it. Farther out are the
Old Ladies^ Home^ the Old Men^s Home^ and the Deaf and Dumb
Asylum (PI. D, 2; r.). Still farther on, to the right, in pleasant
grounds, lies Admiralty House (Pi. D, 1), formerly the residence of
the Vice- Admiral in command of the station. Just beyond this, on
the same side, is the entrance to the large Wellington Barracks
(PI. D, E, 1), which have accommodation for about 1200 men (comp.
p. 53). About 1/4 M. farther on is a hill crowned by the small Fori
Needham.
We may vary our route in returning from this point by following
North Street and Brunswick Street (PI. E, 2, 3). The latter contains
the Old Dutch Church (1.) , a tiny edifice erected in 1755 for the
use of the Qerman Lutheran immigrants (p. 52). Nearer the centre
of the town are St. John's Presbyterian Church, St. George's Church
or the Round Church (PI. E, 2; r.), St. Patrick's Roman Catholic
Church (PI. py 2; 1.), and the Universalist and Methodist Churches
(PI. E, 3).'
Environs of Halifax.
One of the favourite drives from Halifax is that along Bedford Basin
(p. 83) to (9 M.) Becjford (p. 83). To the right, just beyond RoeiitHfham
(p. 83), we pass (0 M.) the site of the JPHnce't Lodge, the residence of
the Duke of Kent (p. 6^, of which nothing now remains except a few
traces of the foundations and the band-rotunda. This drive may be con-
tinued entirely round Bedford Basiu (26 M.), following a beautiful chain
of lakes to Dartmouth (see below) and crossing thence to the city by ferry. —
Another drive leads to the Dutch Village and the (3M.) Dingle, at the head
of the K.W. Arm. About 4 M. beyond the Dingle, on the road to St. Mar-
garets Bay, is the Rocking Stone, a huge mass of granite weighing 160 tons,
which can be easily moved by a small wooden lever. — The Chain Lakes,
the source of the water-supply of Halifax, lie 3 M. to the S.W.
Dartmouth (Acadian House), a town with 4806 inhab., on the E. side of
Halifax Harbour, is reached from Halifax by ferry-steamers plying every
1/4 hr. (fare 6 c. ; wharf at the foot of George St., Pl. E, 4). [It may also be
reached by railway, vii Windsor Junction, in IV2 hr. (see p. 81).] It
j^ossesses a large sugar-refinery, rope-walks, a marine railway, and a skate-
factory. About iVs M. from the town, on a height overlooking the har-
bour, is the large Aft. Hope Lunatic Asylum. Below Dartmouth lies Fort
Clarence, commanding the entrance to the Eastern Passage, a narrow channel
with numerous shoals, supposed to be impassable for large vessels until
the Confederate steamer ^Tallahassee' proved the contrary by making her
Digitized by VjOOQIC
yGoogk
Cap^SahT^'
Wi^aJ^Trtes'Gn|?^stab?Te^ri^
HOPEWELL. 19,BouU. 69
escape through it in 1863. A pleasant drive may be enjoyed among the
lakes to the K. of Dartmouth, a favourite skating-resort in winter. About
4 V. to the "N. of Dartmouth are the Waverley Qold Mine*. — Cow Bay^
7 v. to the S.E. of Dartmouth , has a fine beach and is resorted to for
sea-bathing (good surf).
Small excursion - steamers ply daily in the harbour in summer (fare
50 c), passing MacnaVt Ulandip.lX), a favourite picnic-resort, with a sandy
beach, a lighthouse, a fort, and a rifle-range. — From Hacnab^s Island
the steamers go on up the *North West Arm (PI. A, 2-7). formerly called
the 8<Mdwich River^ a charming sheet of water, about 3i/s M. long and
Vs M. wide. On its K.E. shore lie many of the most attractive summer-
residences of Halifax. At its head lies MeMlle Island^ with the military
prison, in which American prisoners-of-war were confined in 1812. The
Arm is a favourite boating-resort and also a£fords some fishing. Public
Bathi have been recently erected here and also on the Bedford Basin side
of the peninsula.
From Halifax to BridgmoaUr and Yarmouth^ see B. 21^ to Windtor^
Annapolis^ and 8t. John^ see B. 20; to Moncton and Quebec^ see B. 24; to
Cape Breton^ by railway and steamer, see B. 19 ; to Pi-inee Edward Island,
see B. 26; to New/oiindlandi see B. 26; to Boston by steamer, see B. 7 c.
19. From Halifax to Sydney. Cape Breton.
Bras d'Or Lakes. Louisboorg.
a. By Bailway.
277 M. Intbboolonial Bail WAT inlOhrs. (fare $7.55; parlor-car $1).
Passengers for Pictou and Mnee Edward Island (B. 25) diverge at Stellarton
(see below). Travellers are strongly recommended so to arrange their
plans as to make the part of the trip between Mulgrave and Sydney by
steamer through the Bras d'Or Lakes, either in going or returning. The
railway-company does not profess to make connection with the steamers,
but it is often possible to catch the boats on Tues. and Frid. (p. 63). —
Dining-cars are attached to all express trains from Halifax to Mulgrave,
and there is a buffet -service between Point Tupper and Sydney. The
meals provided at Orand Narrows (p. 63) are good.
From Halifax to (62 M.) Trwo, see R. 24. The line to Sydney
here diverges to the right (N.E.) from that to Moncton (for St. John
and Qaebec, RR. 20 c, 24) and ascends the valley of the Salmon
Bher, which flows to the left between picturesque banks of red
sandstone. Beyond (75 M.) RioersdaU we quit the river. 91 M.
Olengarry; 97 M. Hopewell (Scotia Ho.), with a small spool-
factory and a woollen-mill. — 99 M. Ferrona,
Fbom Fxbbona to Suimr Brab, 13 M., railway in 1 hr. The inter-
mediate stations are JSpringville, Brtdgsville^ and 8t. Paul. From (13 M.)
Sunny Brae (Biverside) there is some talk of extending this line to Guysboro
BarboWi so as to connect it with the proposed terminus of a fast transat-
lantic service (comp. p. 61).
A little farther on we reach the East River (right), which we
foUow to (103 M.) Stellarton J a prosperous mining village with
about 1600 inhab., depending mainly on the Albion Coal Mines. It
\ is the junction of the branch to Pictou (see below).
i Fbok Stbllabton to Pictou, 14 M., railway in */4 hr. (fare 46 c). —
! This line runs at first towards the W., passing (3 M.) WesMlle (Dufferin),
with its coal-mines (see p. 60), and near (8 M.) Sylvester cro8ses4he Middle
[ Digitized by VjOOQIC
60 Route 19. NEW GLASGOW. From Halifax
River, affording a distant view of Pictoa to the right. It then turns to the
right (N.)i skirting the Middle Eiver, crosses Pictou Harbour by a long
bridge (♦View), and reaches —
14 M. Fiotott (Wtaiaee, $2: Aberdeen, $1; IT, 3. Agent)^ a picturesquely
situated little town of (1901) 3235 inhab., with a large trade in coal and
several manufactories. Of late years, however, it has been supplanted to
some extent by Kew Glasgow (see below). Its excellent harbour opens above
the town into three arms, receiving the waters of the Eaai^ Middle, and
Weet Rivert (comp. above and below). Immediately opposite lie Uie coal-
wharves of Pictou Landing (see below). Pictdu affords excellent bathing,
boating, and fishing. The principal building of the town ia the Pictou Academy ^
founded in 1818 on the model of Edinburgh University and now attended
by 160 students. It stands near the highest part of the town and com-
mands a fine view. Among the graduates are Sir William Dawson
(p. 135) and Principal Grant. A lobster -hatchery here turns out about
150 miUion young lobsters every year. Pictou, which occupies the site of
an ancient Indian village, was settled in 1768 by a colony of Philadelphians,
but made no great progress till 10 years later, when the first of several
bands of Scottish Highlanders arrived. It is one of the chief centres of the
legends of the Micmac demigod Glooscap (comp. p. 74). — The Pictou Coal
Field covers an area of about 85 sq. M. and is noted for the unusual de*
velopment of some of its beds. The 16 seams known vary in thickness
from 3 ft. to 38 ft.
■Stellarton is 'also connected with Weetvitte (p. 59), New Olcuffow (see
below), and (8 M.) Trenton by an electric railway.
Steamers from Pictou to CSUarlottetown^ P. E. I., see B. 25. — Steamers
also ply from Pictou to the Magdalen Islands (p. 102), calling at Oeorgetown
(p. lOl) and Souris (p. 102), and to Cheticamp, in Gape Breton, calling at
Port Hoody Mabou Mouth, Margaree (p. 66), and Pleasant Bay. — In winter
the iron steamers 'Hinto' and ^Stanley" ply from Pictou to Qeorgeiown
and Charlottetown (comp. p. 97)
1 06 M. Hew Glasgow (30 ft. ; Vendome, Norfolk, Windsor, $ 1 V2-2,
all unpretending; railway-meals at the last 50c., but see p. 69),
a new and thriving little town of (1901) 4447 inhab., on the East
River, with coal-mines, iron and steel works, ship-building yards,
glass-works, and various other substantial indications of a pros-
perous future. Iron, coal, and lime all occur in the district in con-
venient proximity. A short railway, mainly for shipping coal, runs
from New Glasgow to (8 M.) Pictou Landing (see above).
About 2 M. from New Glasgow (station on the railway to Pictou
Landing) are the interesting works of the Nova Scotia Steel Co., long the
only steel-works in Canada, with open-hearth converters, fine rolling-
mills, steam-hammers, etc. Including those in its iron-works, coal-mines,
and glass-works, the company employs about 1500 men. In 1893 the first
steel steamer of Kova Scotia was constructed and equipped at New Glasgow,
these works supplying her shaft and other castings. — Among the coal-
mines of the neighbourhood may be mentioned the Dt'umnumd Pit, near
Westville, which is entered by a slope 5000ft. long, employs 650 men,
and produced 265,550 tons of coal in 1904. Its winding-engine (500 horse-
power) will interest experts. — The rusty line running to the Albion Mines
(p. 59) is the oldest railway in America, and its original locomotive, the
'Samson% is still preserved. — An excellent *View of the town and district,
extending to Prince Edward Island, is obtained from Eraser's Mt., the top
of which is about IVt M. from the town by road. — A small steamer
plies down the Bast River (which is tidal to a point some distance above
New Glasgow) to (10 M.) Pictou (see above), affording a very pleasant trip.
Beyond New Glasgow we traverse a somewhat uninteresting dis-
trict. We cross the Sutherland River and the French River, before
Digitized by VjOOQIC
to Sydney. MULGRAVE. 19. BouU, 61
Teaching (119 M.) Merigomish, where we have a view to the left of
Merigomish Harbour. The line then ascends to the top of a ridge,
affording a view of I^dmont Valley (left), with retrospects (also to
the left) of Northumberland Strait. Beyond tlie highest point (420 ft.),
near (127 M.) AvondaU, we descend rapidly to (129 M.) Barney's
River, (133 M.) Marshy Hope, and (141 M.) Brierley's Brook. A little
farther on we come in sight (r.) of the attractive little town of (147 M.)
Antigonish (accent on the last syllable; Merrimac, Queen, $ 1 V2-2) j
with the large and handsome Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Ninian,
the College of St. Francis Xavier (145 students), and an Academy
for Qirls. The town lies at the head of a picturesque hut not very
useful little harhour and contains (1901) 2428 inhah., mostly of
Highland blood, some of whom still speak Gaelic. It carries on a
trade with Newfoundland and is the distributing-centre of a fine
farming and dairy district. Many pleasant drives and walks may be
taken in the neighbourhood.
The Antigoniih Mtt., in the Aritaig Peninmla, to the N.W. of Anti-
gonish, reach a height of 1000 ft. and afford good views. The coast-village
of Aritaig^ with its long wooden pier, is a genuinely Highland colony.
Cape St. Oeorge, forming the extremity of the peninsula, bears a powerful
lighthouse. — About 6 M. to the S.W. of Antigonish is Oaspereau Lake. —
Coaches run from Antigonish, vi& College Lake and LochoX>er, to (35 M.)
Sherbrooke (Sherbrooke Ho.), at the mouth of the Bt. Mary^e River, 12 M.
from the Atlantic Ocean and the headquarters for a fine fishing-district.
A little gold-mining is also carried on near Sherbrooke.
To the left, as we leave Antigonish, rises the Sugar Loaf (760 ft.),
a fine point of view. We cross the West River and skirt the har-
bour. 156 m. Pomquet, vdth its harbour (1.). From (159 M.)
Heatherton a coach runs to (20 M.) Ouysboro (Grant's Hotel), a
flshing-town near the head of Cheda^cto Bay. [It has recently been
announced that the Provincial Government has granted a subsidy
for the construction of a new railway from Halifax to Gnysboro
along tbe E. shore of Nova Scotia , to be called the Nova Scotia
Eastern Railway.] Beyond (162 M.) Afton we have views of the
blue St. Oeorge's Bay , to the left. 167 M. Tracadie, an Acadian
settlement with a small harbour, contains a Trappist monastery and
a convent of Sisters of Charity. 175 M. Harbor au Bouche, another
Aoadian settlement. We come in sight of the Out of Canso (see
p. 64; left) near (179 M.) Cape Porcupine (600 ft.). We skirt the
strait for a few miles , with views of Port Hastings (p. 62) and
Hawkesbnry (p. 62) on its opposite side, and reach —
185 M. Mulg^ave or Port Mulgrave (Seaside Hotel, $1V2J ^^f-
ray Ho., $ IV2 j ^» 'S* Agent), a small port on the Gut of Canso, with
about 810 inhab. and some fishing - boats. Good bathing and fair
fishing may be had in the vicinity. After stopping at the station
the train backs down to the wharf, whence a ferry-boat conveys it
across the Strait of Cansd to (10 min.) the pier of (186 M.) Point
Tupper (Revere Ho.), where we reach Cape Breton. Here another
engine is attached to the train for the mn to Sydney. ^ y
Digitized by VjOOQIC
62 Route 19, HAWKESBURY. ^ From Halifax
It is proposed to span the Strait of Ganso by a hage cantilever bridge *,
but the realization of this project is still in the dim fature.
The island of Gape Breton , forming the N.E. part of the province of
Nova Scotia (comp. p. 62) , is about 100 H. long and 80 M. wide and in
1901 contained 97,605 inhab., nearly all of Scottish Highland descent, ex-
cept about 15,0CX) French Acadians in or near Isle Madame and on the
N.W. coast. There are also about 600 Micmac Indians (p. 91). The entire
centre of Gape Breton is occupied by a land-locked and almost tideless arm
of the sea known as the Brat cTOr Laka (see p. 63), which opens to the
N.E. by two narrow passages. Indeed, since the narrow isthmus of St. Peter''s
has been pierced by a canal, Gape Breton may be said to consist of two
islands. The rocks of the carboniferous system cover about one-half of
the total area of Gape Breton, and its great wealth consists in its exten-
sive and valuable deposits of coal (comp. p. 69). Large deposits of gyp-
sum have also been found, and copper is mined near Sydney. The fisherie9
employ about 10,000 men and have an annual catch valued at $ 1.500,000.
The chief attractions of Gape Breton to the tourist are its delightful sum-
mer-climate and the scenery of the Bras d*Or Lakes, which, while not
especially striking or grand, has a charm of ita own that will hardlv fail
to make itself felt. Many will find an additional attraction in the site of
the fortress of LouUbourg (p. 69) , the scene of such desperate struggles
for the mastery of the New World. Better hotels are much wanted
throughout the island.
The name of the island is taken from that of its E. cape (p. 69),
which was probably so called in honour of its Breton discoverers, though
some attribute the discovery to the Basque fishermen and find the real proto-
nym in a Gape Breton on the S.W. coast of France, near Bayonne. How-
ever that may be, the name, which is probably the oldest French name in
American geography, seems to have been affixed to the cape early in the
16th cent., while there is no record of the date of its extension to the
island. Cape Breton was included in a general way in the 'Acadia^ of
French Ganada, but, save in connection with settlements made by Mehoktt
Dmys, Bietir de Frontae (see p. 65), its name scarcely appears in the history
of the 17th century. The peace of Utrecht (1713), however, called it into
new importance. A few Acadians, from the parts of New France that had
been ceded to England, took refuge in Gape Breton, which the French
renamed Itle Royaie^ while the former Governor of Newfoundland trans-
ferred his headquarters to the fine harbour where was soon commenced the
powerful fortress of Louisbourg (see p. 70). On the final conquest of Ganada
Dy the British, Gape Breton was annexed to Nova Scotia, but from 1784
to 18^ it formed a separate province, with Sydney (p. 67) as its capitaJ.
All students should consult the 'Historical and Descriptive Account of
the Island of Gape Breton", by Sir /. O. Bourinot (Montreal; 1892), which
includes an admirable bibliography. 'Gape Breton at the beginning of the
20th Gentury\ by C, W, Vernon (Toronto; 1903), aflfords the best scenic
descriptions and accounts of natural resources.
Leaving the wharf at Point Tupper (see p. 61), the train runs
to the E. and in a few minntes reaches (186 M.) Hawkesbwy JunC'
tiofif where branch-lines diverge to the right and left.
Fbom Point Tuppeb (vii Hawkbbbubt Junotioh) to St. Pbtbb's, 81 M.,
raUway in IV4 hr. (fare 95c.). This line runs to the S.E., passing (8 M.)
Chapel Platform, (10 M.) Evanston^ (12 M.) Basin Road, (19 M.J Grand Ante,
and (25 M.) Sporting Mountain, — 81 M. St. Peters, see p. 102.
Fbom Point Tdppbb to Invbrnbbs , 61 M., railway in S'/s ^^8. (fare
$ 1.85). This line, chiefly used for the transport of coal, runs to the N.
along the coast. — 1 M. Hawkesbury (American So., $1V4) Farqvhar;
U. 8, Agent), a village with a good harbour and a splendid view of the
straits. It is connected with Mulgrave by ferry and is called at by the
Plant Line steamers (p. 63). 47 M. Port HasUngs (Caledonia) opposite Gape
Porcupine, a summer- resort with good walks and boating. 8 M. Troy;
12 M. Oreignuh; 16 M. Oraigmore; 28 M. Judiqitet 27 M. C(^erine'* fond, —
Digitized by VjOOQIC
to Sydney. GRAND NARROWS. 19. Route. 63
S2 M. Poit Hood (Oldsmith Hotel), a small harbour with (1901) 1660 in-
habitants. A hill at its K. end affords a fine view of Cape Mabon (K.),
Cape St. George (W.), and (on a clear day) Prince Bdward Island (W.).
Steamers ply hence to Pictou (p. 60), Canto (p. 64), and PUcuant Bay. — The
train now leaves the coast for a little. 87 M. QUncoe^ named after Scot-
land's ill-fated glen. At (U M.) Mdbau (Cameron House), one of the love-
liest spots on this coast, we cross the Mahcu River. Mabou Coal Minet^
IVs M. to the N.W., are reached by a branch-railway. Kear (47 M.) Olen-
dyer^ with its picturesque woods and gorge, we pass round the so-called
Bnake Curve. o6 M. SiratMorne^ the centre of a picturesque country, lies
close to Loch Ban, the IT.W. arm of Lake Akulie (p. 66). — 61 M. Inver-
neta (/nvemsM, Imperial^ Grand Central, $ 1-1 VsO* formerly called Broad
CSove, is an important coad-mining town with (1901) 1543 inhab., a fine
beach, and splendid bathing. A drive may be taken to Margaree Valley
(p. 66), 12 M. to th^K.E., while on the coast, 86 M. to the K., is Chetieamp,
a French fishing-settlement, with a conspicuous B. C. church and scenery
rivalling that of Ingonish (p. 69).
Beyond Hawkesbury Junction the train for Sydney rnns to the
N. through a somewhat featureless district. Numerous small ponds
are passed, some of which are 60-100 ft. deep; and here and there
are the birch-lodges of Micmac Indians (p. 91). We cross McDonald' $
Qvlch, near (200 M.) West Bay Road, by a steel trestle 90 ft. high
and 940 ft. long. Beyond (207 M. ) River Denys we reach the bank
of the €hr«at Bras d'Or Lake (see p. 65), of which we have good
Tiews to the right. 216 M. OrangedaU. — At (231 M.) lona we
reach the narrow Barra Straitj connecting the Great and the Little
Bras d^Or, and cross it by a fine iron bridge to (232 M.) Cfrand Nat"
rows, with the plain but comfortable little Grand Narrows Hotel
($1V2~2)> "'^here certain trains stop for meals (50 c.). Good boat-
ing, bathing, and fishing may be obtained here.
Steamer from lona to Baddeck, see p. 64. The 'Richmond* (see below)
goes on from Grand Narrows to Marble Mountain (p. 65) and Johnson'' t Harbour,
Beyond Grand Narrows the train hugs the Little Bras d'Or Lake
(see p.65) for about 30 M. (views to left). 241 M. 8henacadie. 260 M.
Boisdale, opposite Boularderie Island (p. 67). Important deposits
of graphite have lately been discovered here. French Vale (560 in-
hab.), about 4 M. to the S. of (266 M.) Barachois, At (261 M.)
George's River we cross the stream of that name and ascend on its
right bank, leaving the lake. At (264 M.) North Sydney Junction
we reach the head of the N. arm of Sydney Harbour, where a
branch -line connects with (268 M.) the station for North Sydney
(3/4 M. from the town ; see p. 68). The train of the main line con-
tinues to (267 M.) Leitche's Creek and (277 M.) Sydney (see p. 67).
b. By Steamer.
A steamer of the Canada Atlantic is Plant 8. 8. Co. runs weekly from
Halifax through the Gut of Canto to Charlottetown, P. £. I. (comp. p. 97),
calling on the way at Hauketbury, which it reaches in about 13 hrs. At
Hawkesbury it connects with the (3ape Breton Railway (see B. 19 a) and
with the steamer ^Bichmond' of the Richmond 8teamiboat Co. The latter
starts every Tues. & Frid. at 2 p.m. for (5 hrs.) 8t. Peter's (p. 66), where it
stops for the night, going on next day to Grand Narrovat (see above*, through-
£ar« $ 1.75). The voyage through the Bras d'Or Lakes is continued by th^
Digitized by *
64 Route 19. STRAIT OF OANSO. From Halifax
steamer rnnaing thrice daily from lonoy opposite Grand Narrows (p. 63), to
(I1/4 hr.) Baddeck (p. 66; fare 60 c.). From Baddeck a steamer of the Bnu
d^Or Steamboat Co. plies on Hon., Wed., and Frid. (10 a.m.) to North Spdnev,
which it reaches at 3 p.m. (fare $ 1; throngh-fare from Halifax hy steamer
3 6.50, by railway and boat $ 7.50). On the return-voyage the steamer leaves
Sydney at 7 a.m., and the route is retraced in the same way (nights at Bad-
deck and St. Peter's). The steamboat-lines do not profess to make connec-
tion with each other, and they are run rather in the interest of the local
traffic than for the convenience of the tourist. Nevertheless the scenery
of the Bras d'Or Lakes is so attractive, that travellers are recommended to
make at least part of the trip through their quiet waters. The voyage from
Halifax to Hawkesbury is hardly recommended except to those who are spe-
cially fond of the sea. — Other steamers ply daily from Mulsrave to Arichat
(p. 65) and Canto (see below), 4 times weekly to Ouptboro (p. 61), and weekly
to Fort Hood, Margaru^ and Chetieamp. — The Bt, Pieire and MiquOon Bteamen
(see B. 27) run through the Bras d^Or Lakes, calling at Baddeck and Sydney.
The above were the arrangements for the summer of 1906, bnt are
liable to alteration. The traveller is, therefore, advised to consult the
Halifax daily papers or apply at the offices of the steamboat- companies
for the latest information.
For a general description of Gape Breton, see p. 62.
Leaving Halifax Harbour, the steamei rounds HarUand Pointy
passes the entrances of Cow Bay (p. 59) and Cole Harbour j and
runs to the E., along the coast. Like that to the W. of Halifax (R. 21b)
this shore is frayed by innumerable small Inlets and lined with myri-
ads of islands ; hut few points on it come within the purview of
the ordinary tourist. Our steamer passes most of it at night and
makes no stops before reaching the Strait of Canso. Beyond Cape
CansOj the easternmost point of Nova Scotia proper, we turn to the
W. and cross the broad waters of Chedabnoto Bay. The small sea-
port of Canso (U. S. Agent), at the point, has (1901) 2367 inhab.
and is the W. terminus of some of the Atlantic cables. To the N., as
we cross the bay, is the island of Arichat (p. 65). Beyond Cape
Argos and Eddy Point (both to the left) we enter the Gut or Strait
of Canso or Canseau, a narrow but deep channel, 15 M. long and
about 1 M. wide, separating peninsular Nova Scotia from the island
of Cape Breton (p. 62). It is much used by sailing-vessels, which
thereby avoid the long and sometimes dangerous voyage round the
E. extremity of the province. The banks of the channel, which
was ^excavated by the currents of the drift period', are hilly, covered
with trees, and dotted with villages. To the left, 5 M. below Mul-
grave, is the site of Terminal City, where an American syndicate
has blocked out a large city , intended — some day — ^to be the ter-
minus of a line of swift steamers to Europe.
Beyond Hawkesbury (p. 62), on the E. side of the strait, the
steamer goes on through St. Oeorge's Bay and Northumberland Strait
to Charlottetown (p. 98). Passengers bound for Cape Breton by water,
however, leave the steamer at Hawkesbury (p. 62) and join the steamer
of the Richmond Steamship Co. This boat retraces .part of the route we
have Just traversed, but, instead of crossing Chedabucto Bay, steers
to the left, and threads the narrow Lennox Passage^ between Cape
Breton on the left and the islands of Janvrin and Arichat to the right.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
to Sydney. BRAS D'OR LAKES. 19. Route. 65
The island of Ariohat or Isle Madame^ 15 H. long and 5H. wide, eon-
tains about 4700 inhab., mainly Acadians. The chief place is the little
fishing-town of Arichat (Sea View Ho.; U. S. Agent; 600 inhab.), on the
S. side of the island. The island is frequented by a few summer-yisitors
in search of good boating and fishing. Steamer to Mulgrave, see p. 64.
Leaving Lennox Passage, the steamer ascends St. Peter's Bay,
which is separated from St, Peter's ItUet, part of the Great Bras
d'Or Lake, only by a small isthmus about Vj M. across. Through
this has been cut a short canal, 26 ft. wide and 13 ft. deep, which
has practically divided Cape Breton into two large islands (comp.
' p. 62). Adjoining the canal is the small -nllage of St. Peter's (inns),
founded originally by the French in 1636 but now occupied by
Scottish Highlanders.
A steamer runs hence to £att Bay (see below) twice a week in summer.
At the mouth of the narrow St. Peter's Inlet are a number of
islands, on the largest of which (seen at some distance to the right)
is a Roman Catholic chapel. Here, on St. Anne's Day (July 28th),
the Micmacs (p. 91) of Cape Breton hold a grand festival, accom-
panied by various singular celebrations, which it will repay the
carious visitor to attend.
The Great Bias d'Or Lake, which we now traverse, has an ex-
treme length, from the head of West Bay to the head of East Bay,
of about 45 M., and an extreme width of about 20 M. Its depth
varies from 90 ft. to 350 ft. The name is said to be, not French,
but a corrupt form of an Indian or Spanish word (possibly from the
same root as Labrador), sometimes locally pronounced 'Bradoore*.
It is surrounded by agreeably diversified and wooded hills (5-600 ft.
high), and Charles Dudley Warner describes it as more beautiful
than he had imagined a salt-water lake could be. The combina-
tion of its sheltered inland position with the ozone of its salt-laden
breezes makes the summer climate very delightful.
The course of the steamer lies almost due N. across the lake.
To the left (S. W.) opens the West Bay^ with its numerous is-
lands. [On this bay is Marble Mountain, with limestone quarries
affording material used by the Dominion Iron & Steel Co. (steamers,
see p. 63).] To the right (N. E.) is the long East Bay, with the
Micmac village of Escasoni near its head. To the W. (1.), beyond
the West Bay , are Malagawatch Harbour and the estuary of the
Denys River (comp. p. 63), the latter named for its discoverer
Nicholas Denys, Sieur de Fronsac, who was afterwards appointed
Governor of Cape Breton (1654). The only stop made by the
steamer on the Great Bras d'Or is at the Grand Narrows (see p. 63),
where it connects with the Little Bras d'Or Lake. The channel
is crossed by the fine seven-spanned railway-bridge mentioned at
p. 63. Passengers for Sydney must generally trans-ship here to the
steamer plying from lona (p. 63) to Baddeck (comp. pp. 63, 64).
The Little Bras d'Or Lake, excluding the long narrow arms
connected with it, is about 10 M. long and 5-6 M./wide. Jts
Baedbkb^s Canada. 3rd Edit. Digit zed b^^OOglC
66 Route 19, BADDECK. From Halifax
greatest depth is nearly 700 ft. Its attractions are similar to those
of the Great Bras d'Or, but the smaller scale makes them even more
fascinating. It 'offers many a charming vista of cliff where the
gypsum mingles its white with the dark green of the overhanging
spruce, and where the land rises into lofty hills, with their slopes
dotted by cottages on little patches of meadow* (Bourinot). The
steamer steers to the N., crosses the mouth of 8L Patricki's Channel
(1. ; see below), and reaches —
Baddeck (^Telegraph Ho.^ Bra^ d'Or Ho., both mediocre, $ 1 Vr^J
Mrs, Angus Mackenzie* Sy well spoken of, $ 1 V2)j * village with about
1235 Highland inhab., situated on rising ground at the mouth of a
pretty little bay. The name, accented on the second syllable, is a
corruption of the French form Bedeque^ from an Indian word Ebedek,
The fame of this little village was made by Charles Dudley Warner
in his amusing booklet 'Baddeck ; and that Sort of Thing*, and it
is now frequented by quite a number of summer- visitors , in spite
of whom it retains much of its native unsophistioation. Both English
and Gaelic services are still held in what Warner called the *double-
barrelled' church (Presbyterian). Mr. George Kennan^ the Siberian
traveller, has a cottage here ; and Mr. A. Oraham Bell (of the *Bell
Telephone*) has built himself a beautiful summer-home on Red
Point, immediately opposite the village, the red roof of which is
conspicuous to the right as we approach the wharf. Many pleasant
walks and drives may be taken from Baddeck, and the facilities for
boating trips are unexcelled. Fair fishing for brook-trout^ sea- trout,
and salmon is within reach.
One of the pleasantest drives is that round the head of Baddeck Bap
to (7 H.) Mr. BelPt House (see above). On the outskirts of the village
we pass Mr. Kennan't Botue (I.). This drive may b'e continued along ttie
l^orth Shore viH Cape Smoky to Ingonieh (p. 69) or even to Aepy Bay (p. 6tf). —
Another pleasant round of about 10 M. may be made through Baddeck
Rivet Valley (falls). — A visit should also be made to *St. Anne's Bay.
which lies about 10 M. to the K. of Baddeck and has been highly praisea
by Mr. C. D. Warner. — A splendid drive of about 25 M. (carr. 35) leads
to Whycocomagh, which is^erhaps, better reached by steamer (see below).
About 6 H. to the K. of Whycocomagh is Lake Ainslie^ the source of the
Margaree. — Another picturesque road (carr.; 25 M.) leads to the Mat*-
garee River, famous for its trout and salmon fishing. Margaree Harbour^
at its mouth, is one of the fishing-stations of the great Jersey firm, Bobin
& Go. (comp. p. 92). — The romantic Uuge-Ban FaUe (the highest 76 ft.)
are reached from Baddeck (9 M.) by a good road. — About 12 M. above
Baddeck is a Micmae Reservation; and in summer there are generally a
few lodges of the<ie Indians close to the village, where their peculiarities
may be studied and their baskets and bead-work purchased. — The in-
defutigable traveller may also reach Mabou (Murray Ho.) and Port Hood from
Baddeck by a stage-drive of 9-10 hrs. r50 M.).
The steamer to and from lona (Grand Narrows f see p. 63) connects
with the express-trains in both directions. — The steamer from Sydney
(comp. p. 67) runs on from Baddeck up the beautiful 8t. Patrick's Channel
and Whycocomagh Bay to (25 M. ; fare % IV2, from Baddeck 76 c.) Whyod-
comagh {*Bay View^ fair, $ IV2), a small village near the foot of the double-
peaked Salt Hill (720 ft.). Opposite rises Indian Head (930 ft.). — A steamer
also plies fortnightly in summer via Grand Narrows to Bast Bay (p. Hd),
calling At Irish Cove and Big Pond. C^r\r\n]o
Digitized by VjOOQIc
to Sydney. SYDNEY. 19, RouU, 67
Leaving Baddeck Harbour, the Sydney steamer rounds Red Point
(with Mr. BelFs house) and steers to the N.E. through the channel
known as the Oreat Bras d*Or, which is about 22 M* long and about
1 M. wide. To the right lies Boularderie lalandj 28 M. long and
2-3 M. broad, on the other side of which is the Little Bras d'Or or
8t, Andrew*s Channelj which is 25 M. long and throughout a great
part of its length 3 M. wide, the epithet 'little' apparently applying
only to its narrow and tide-swept outlet on the Atlantic. The hills
on the Peninsula of 8t, Anne, to the left of the Great Bras d'Or,
attain a height of about 1000 ft. The steamer issues from the chan-
nel and reaches the Atlantic Ocean between Cape Dauphin on the
left and Table Head on the right. To the N. lie the Ciboux Islands,
We now have about 20 M. of open ocean, rounding Point Aconi,
the N. extremity of Boularderie Island, before entering the mouth
of Sydney Harbour J which we reach beyond Cranberry Point, As we
ascend the harbour we see coal-mines on both sides of us. We first
call at North Sydney (p. 68), which lies to the right, in the N. W.
arm, and then ascend the S. arm, on the left, to Sydney,
Sydney. — Hotels. Sydney Hotbl, $ 2V3-3Vs i <^band, near the statioo,
$1V2-, MiNxa, QtjBKN, both in Charlotte St., $11/2; Alponsb, Victobu,
George St., $ iVa-
Electric Tramways traverse the chief streets and run to (13 H.) Olace
Bay Cp. 69).
Steamers run from Sydney to Baddeck and Whycocomagh (Tnes., Thars.,
& Sat.; comp. pp. 64, 66); to Ingonish and Bay St. Lawrence (see p. 69); to
EnglUJUoim^ in St. Anne^s Bay (27 M. to the N.W. ; fare $ 1) ; to Quebec and
Montreal (p. 126); to 8t, John'e (p. 109) ; to HcAifax (p. 50); and to St. Pierre
and Miquelon (p. 124).
U. 8, Consul^ Mr. George K. West; French and Oerman Consular Agente.
— Sydney Lyceum (theatre).
French gold and silver coins are often met with in Sydney, put into
circulation by the crews of French men-of-war, which frequently visit the
port in summer (comp. p. xi).
Sydney, an important seaport with (1901) 9909 inhab. (now ca.
14,000; including natives of the United States, Great Britain, Ire-
land, Germany, Scandinayia, Italy, Hungary, and China), is finely
situated on the S.W. arm of one of the best harbours on the Atlantic
coast, which, however, is ice-bound in some years for about two
months. Its chief trade is in coal, iron, and steel, large quantities
of which are produced in the district, but it also carries on a con-
siderable general trade. From 1784 to 18,20 Sydney was capital of
the separate province of Cape Breton (comp. p. 62). It is frequently
Tisited by vessels of the British and French North Atlantic Squad-
rons. The town has increased rapidly of late years owing to the
enterprize of the Dominion Iron & Steel Co. (see p. 68). Char-
1.0TTB Street is well and soUdly built, including such substantial
structures as the County Court House, the Post Office, the Bank of
Montreal, the Royal Barik of Canada, the Union Batik of Halifax,
and -various business-blocks. The harbour affords excellent yacht-
ing, and many pleasant drives may be taken in the vicinity (e,g,
5*
68 Route 19. SYDNEY. From Halifax
to Forks Lake, Sydney River , and Crawley^s Creek), The Royal Cape
Breton Yacht Club holds a weekly regatta in summer. Sydney is
also the starting-point for a visit to LouUhowrg (see p. 69). At
the end of the peninsula is Victoria Park (fine view), with the
remains of the barracks of the garrison formerly maintained here.
The Dominion Steel Worki, recently established near Sydney, cover
over 600 acres of land and employ more than 3000 men. There are
also large tar, chemical, cement, and nail works,
^Every visitor should see a cast made (at the Dominion Steel Works).
At night, as the molten slag rashes out and is conveyed to the water front,
the scene is one of strangely weird fascination. Seen from the deck of the
ferry steamer it reminds one of the infernal re^ons. The sky is sud-
denly illuminated with the red blaze, throwing into striking relief the
huge furnaces and chimneys, and making the silvery radiance of the in-
numerable electric lights pale into insignificance. A stream of molten lava
is then seen descending the slope to the harbor, and when its fiery heat is
cooled in the water, clouds of snowy eteam ascend from it.^ (A, Jf, Vernon.)
Sydney Harbour was originally named Spanith Bay^ and has been
known to British navigators since the 16th century. Le Moyne d'lber-
ville, founder of Louisiana, sailed hence in 1692 on his expedition to the
Bay of Fundy and the coast of Haine. Adm. Walker took refuge here after
his pusillanimous withdrawal from the expedition against Quebec in 1711
(p. 147) and asserted the British claim to Gape Breton by erecting a wooden
cross, with an inscription, on the shore. A naval contest off the mouth of
the harbour in 1781 resulted in the defeat of four small British vessels by
two French frigates. The town of Sydney was founded in 1784. — In 1906 the
harbour was entered and cleared by 8600 vessels of 1,446,546 tons' register.
One of the pleasantest Dbivss from Sydney is that along the low
cliffs overhanging the harbour to (12 M.) Low Point Lighthoute. Another
may be taken along the S.W. Arm. Short steamer-trips can be made to the
Little Brat d* Or, 8(. Anne, etc.
From Sydney a steam-ferry plies hourly across the harbour to
(5 M.) North Sydney (Belmont, $ 2j Vendome, Albert, $ 11/2),
another coal-shipping port with (1901) 4646 inhab. and a long pier.
Steamer to Newfoundland, see p. 102; to St. Pierre and Miquelon,
see p. 124. Steamers also ply to Montreal, Quebec, Halifax, Char-
lottetown, and St. John's. For the Bras d'Or steamers, comp. p. 67.
A pleasant drive may be taken across the peninsula to the shore of
the Little Bra» d^Or, whence we may return viS. Sydney Mines (see below) and
along the harbour. Another good drive leads along OiorgeU River to
Long Itland and Barachoie.
From North Sydney the electric tramway runs to the E. to
r3 M.) Syd/ney Mines, a coal-mining place with (1901) 3191 inhab.
(now 7000), coal-mines, and the blast-furnaces of the Nova Scotia
Steel and Goal Company. The rows of the one-story houses of the
miners, built of brick with old-fashioned panes of glass, present
a quaint appearance. The tramway between North Sydney and Syd-
ney Mines skirts the harbour, of which it commands a fine view,
while in the evening a brilliant and weird effect is produced by
the furnaces of the Dominion Steel Company on the opposite side
of the harbour. — Lloyd^s Cove^ to the E. of Sydney Mines, has
the receiving hut of the Western Union Cable Company.
A Steamboat of the Bras d'Or Co., leaving the Sydneys on Tues. and
Frid., plies to the K. along the coast, visiting some of /the finert scenery
Digitized by VjOOQIC
to Sydney. LOUISBOITRG. 19. Route. 69
in Gape Breton (fare to Ingonish $1.35. to Keil's Head $1.60, to Aspy
Bay $ 1.76, to Bay 8t. Lawrence $ 2). At a distance of about 28 M. in a
straight line from North Sydney we reach *Old Smoky Head (Cap Enfumi).
rising to a height of 1200 ft. and so called from the smoke>like doad of
mist which often enrelops its summit. On doubling the cape we i*each
the lovely village of Ingonith or Inganiche^ situated on the so-called North
and South Bay»^ separated by Middle Head. A narrow sand-bar separates
the outer part of Sonth Bay from the dark waters of the inner harbour,
and the houses on this spit were almost wholly destroyed by wind and
wave in two terrific storms in the winters of 1894 and 1895. Among the
lofty hills surrounding the bays is FraneyU Chimney (1892 ft.), the highest
point in Gape Breton. — Beyond Ingonish the steamer goes on to (47 H. from
Sydney) Neirt Head and (on some trips) to (59 H.) Atpy Bay and (70 M.) Bay
St. Lawrence, at the extreme N. end of the island, where the scenery vies with
that of Ingonish. — Gomp. ^From Blomidon to Smoky% by FrankBollee (1894).
The Sydney Goal Fields cover an area of about 900 sq. M., besides
which the deposits are known to extend for 6 M. under the sea. It is
estimated that the total quantity of coal in this area amounts to at least
10 billion tonS) and its value is enhanced by its proximity to the harbours
of Sydney and Louisbourg. The coal, the first cargo of whicn is said to
have been shipped to Martinique in 1735 and which has been more or
less regularly worked since 1784, is of an excellent bituminous quality,
and is readily sold at a remunerative price. In 1905 the total yield of the
Sydney district was fully 4,000,000 tons. About 11,000 men are employed
in the mines. The Domini(M Coal Co., a syndicate of Canadian and United
States capitalists, with its headquarters in Montreal, has acquired moHt of
the working mines in the district to the 8. of Sydney, while the peninsula of
K. Sydney is practically owned by the If ova Scotia Steel ds Coal Co. (formerly
the General Mining Association). The chief pit of the former organization is
Dominion No. 2 Colliery (with the largest coal-shaft in the world), while the
oldest coal-pit is that of the Nova Scotia Steal sl Goal Co., Sydney Harbour,
the workings of which extend a long way under the sea, the vessels which
enter the harbour passing over them. This pit, which yields 600,(X)0 tons
of coal annually, is the deepest in the neighbourhood and will repay a visit.
Louisbourg.
Fbom Stdmbt to Lodisboubg, 42 M., railway in IV2 hr. (return-fare
$1.20). This railway follows the coast- line pretty closely, while the direct
distance by road is only 24 M. At or near most of the stations are large
coal-mines worked by the Dominion Goal Co. (see above). 10 M. Dominion;
12 M. Caledonia; 13 M. Bridgeport. — 15 M. Olace Bay {Hotel, $lVr2), with
a fine beach, has recently progressed very rapidly owing to its coal-pits,
and in 1901 contained 6945 inhab. (now 12,000). The annual production
of its mines now amounts to 3,000,000 tons. A little to the 6.W. of
Glace Bay is a station of the Marconi Wireless Telegraph, from which
the first message from Canada to England (addresied by Oovemor-General
Minto to King Edward) was despatched on Dec. 2l8t, 1902. Glace Bay
may also be reached from Sydney by electric car (p. o7). — 22 M. Fort
Morien, formerly known as Cow Bay, has an excellent beach and a good
harbour, protected by a breakwater constructed at a cost of $260,000.
Pop. (1901) 1453. — At (29 M.) Mira we cross the Mira River, between
Mira Lake, on the right, and ifira Bay, on the left. During the summer
season a small steamer, connecting with the trains of the Sydney and
Louisbourg Railway, plies up the picturesque Mira for a distance of about
bOH. Sangaree Island has a good bathing-beach. The river has also much
of historic interest, with remains of old French brick-kilns, abandoned
sloops, and burying -grounds. The Huna' occurs in Mira Bay and at the
mouth of the Mira River, affording excellent sport to fishermen. — 33 M.
Catalone, on Catalans Lake. To the S.E. of the last lies Cape Breton, from
which the island takes its name (see p. 62) ; and offshore lies the island
of Scatarie, the easternmost part of the Maritime Provinces. — 42 M.
LouUhourg, see p. 70. ^g,,^^^ ^^ GoOglc
70 Route 19. LOUISBOURG.
The present town of Lonitbourg (Loui^ourg Hotel; Mc Alpine. Ho. ; U,S,
Agent) lies near the middle of LouUhourg Harbour^ a safe and deep haven,
2 M. long and Vs ^- ^ide, lying about 6 M. to the S. of Cape Breton. Close
by are the remains of the so-called Grand Battery, while the remains of
the fortiffed city of the French era are on the S. W. arm of the bay. ItB
inhabitants, about 1600 in number, were formerly mainly engaged in the
cod-fisheries of the Banks of Newfoundland, but since the construction of
the railway the place has become a large coal-shipping port. Two French
cannon, recovered from a sunken man-of-war in the harbour, are now
kept in an enclosure near the railway- station.
History. By the Treaty of Utrecht (1713) France was left in possess-
ion of the island of Cape Breton, the importance of which, as the key
to Canada, the French determined to emphasize by the construction of a
fortress of the first rank. The bay then known as the Havre-aux-AnglaU
was chosen as the site of the new city, and over $10,000,000 were ex«
pended in gigantic fortifications. The population grew rapidly, mainly
by the concourse of the French from Newfoundland and the Acadians
from Nova Scotia, and Louisbourg soon became a name and place of
great signigcance. It was the American rendezvous of the French navy
and the headquarters of a fishing-fleet employing large numbers of men.
On the outbreak of the war of 1744 the New England settlements de-
termined to attack this ^Dunkirk of America* , a standing menace to their
trade and fisheries -, and an expedition of 4900 men, under William Pepper-
rell, a merchant of Eittery, was fitted out in 1745 for the purpose. To
the amazement of the world this force of Colonial militia, with the co-
operation of the British West Indian Squadron under Commodore Warren,
succeeded in capturing the supposed impregnable fortress after a siege ox
seven weeks — one of the most extraordinary feats in the annals of warfare.
Pepperrell was created a baronet for his services. Louisbourg was, however,
given back to France by the Treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle (1749). War brokTe
out again in 1756^ and in 1758 an army of 11,600 men and a powerful fleet
were sent out from England to operate against the French in Canada. This
expedition entered Oabarue Bay^ to tiie 8. of Louisbourg, where Pepperrell
had also landed, in June^ and two months later, in spite of all Uiat had
been done to strengthen it against such an emergency, the city was surren-
dered once more, with 5600 prisoners-of-war and a large quantity of naval
and military stores. Wolfe commanded one of the divisions of the British
army and greatly distinguished himself in the siege. As Halifax had been
selected as the British military headquarters for the Acadian provinces,
the works of Louisbourg were entirely destroyed and its site deserted.
The ruins of the French city and fortress lie on PoiiU Boehe/ort^ on
the S. W. side of the harbour. The destruction by man and time has
been so complete that comparatively little now remains to outward view.
*6reen mounds and embankments of earth enclose the whole space,
and beneath the highest of them yawn arches and caverns of ancient
masonry. This grassy solitude was once the ^Dunkirk of America*; the
vaulted caverns where the sheep find shelter from the rain were case-
mates where terrified women sought refuge from storms of shot and
shell, and the shapeless green mounds were citadel, bastion, rampart,
and glacis. Here stood Louisbourg: and not all the efforts of its con-
querors, nor all the havoc of succeeding times, have availed to efface it.
Men in hundreds toiled for months with lever, spade, and gunpowder in
the work of destruction, and for more than a century it has served as a
stone quarry ; but the remains of its vast defences still tell their tale of
human valor and human woe' (Parkman).
^If we take a position on the site of the King^s bastion, the most pro-
minent point of the ruins, we see to the southwest the waters of the
spacious bay of Gabarus. Immediatelv below us are the remains of the
casemates where the women and children found a refuge during the last
siege .... It is quite easy to follow the contour of the fortifications until
they come to the old burying-grounds near Rochefort and Black Points,
where hundreds of New Englanders and of French and English soldiers
found their last resting-place in 1745 and 1758. No tombstone or cairn or
WINDSOR. 20. Route. 71
cross has been raised •, the ground has never been blessed by priest ; the
names of the dead are all forgotten; Frenchmen, Englishmen, and Colonists,
Catholics and Pnritans, now sleep in close proximity to each other, re-
gardless of the war of creeds, beneath the green sward^ (Bourinot).
The British lines in 1758 formed a semicircle round the city on the
W. i the Burying Ground^ above referred to, lies to the E. of the city,
near the extreme point. One of the strongest works was on the island
in the month of the harbour, but it was silenced by Wolfe with a battery,
of which the remains may still be seen on Lighthouse Pointy the N.E. arm
of the harbour.
A simple monument to commemorate the capture of Louisbourg was
erected here by the Society of Colonial Wars in 1896.
A small steamer plies in summer to the interesting fishing-village of
Odbarus (1116 inhab.). to the S.W. of Louisbourg (comp. p. 70).
Visitors to Louisbourg should be familiar with Parbman^s account of
the two sieges, given in 'A Half-Century of Conflict' (chaps, xviii-xx)
and ^Montcalm & Wolfe' (chap. xix). See also Bourinot (Op. cit., p. 62),
Vernon (Op. cit., p. 62), and Kings/ortPs *History of Canada' (vols, iii and
iv). Perhaps the fullest account of the second siege is in the Abbi Cat-
grain's 'L^vis et Montcalm' (Quebec; 1892).
20. From Halifax to St, John.
a. Vi& Digby.
Dominion Atlantic Railway to (150 M.) Digby in 4V4.-6 hrs. (fare
$4.10', parlor- car $1), and Steamer of the same company thence to (ca.
60 M.) St. John in 28/4-3 hrs. (through-fare 35.75).
The railway traverses the picturesque 'Evangeline' district, rich in
historic and poetic association, and the traveller will do well to stop o(T
for a night or more at Wolfville and Eentville. The railway is well
equipped, and its officials are notably courteous. The 'Flying Bluenose'
express leaves Halifax , under present summer arrangements , daily at,
8.30 a.m. Beyond Digby the railway goes on to Yarmouth^ to which through-
carriages run from Halifax (comp. p. 78). — The run across the Bay o/Fundy
is seldom rough in summer; and the steamer is large, speedy, and safe. —
Tlie traveller may dine or lunch either in the bufifet-car or on the steamer.
Notman (comp. p. 127) publishes good photographs of this route.
From Halifax to (14 M.) Windsor Junction , see p. 83. Our
line here diverges to the left from the route to Moncton and Quebec
(R. 24) and runs towards the N.W. Beyond (27 M.) MU Uniacke,
to the right, is Vniacke Place, an old-fashioned house between two
small lakes. About Si/g M. to the N. are the small Mi. Vniacke
Gold Mines. — To the left lies the pretty Five Island Lake. — 37 M.
Ellershouse was founded by a German, Herr von Ellershausen, whose
fine house stands to the left, and has lost its prosperity since his
departure and the closing of his pulp-mill. — Mt. Ardoise (*Ardice' ;
700 ft.) may now be seen rising to the right. We cross the pictur-
esque St. Croix, 40 M. Newport, with gypsum -quarries. As we
enter Windsor we see King's College (p. 72) on the hills to the left.
-The grass -works of old Fort Edward (p. 72) rise just above the
station, on the same side.
46 M. Windsor (Victoria, $lV2-2; aifton or Sam Slick Ho.,
$ 11/2; U. S. Consul, Mr, J, T, Hoke), a prosperous little town and
port, with (1901) 3398 inhab., lies on a point betwfi0n the Avon
Digitized by VjOOQIC
72 Route W, HANTSPOBT. From Halifax
and the 8t, Croix^ which unite in a wide estuary below the town
as they flow (under the name of Avon) into the Bay of Minas, It
takes the third place among the ship -owning ports of Canada
fl08 vessels of 45,276 tons in 1906) and exports large quantities
of gypsum from the quarries of the vicinity. The town also con-
tains an iron-foundry , a cotton-mill , a plaster- mill (for grinding
and calcining plaster), and other factories. It is the seat of King's
College (see below). — In 1897 Windsor was visited by a terrible
conflagration, which swept away 400 buildings, destroyed property
to the value of $3,000,000, and left three-fourths of its inhabitants
homeless.
To reach Eing^s College we follow Water St. from the station to
(3 min.) Oerriih Street^ which we follow to the left, passing the Post 0/Jice^
to (2 min.) Gray Street. Here we torn to the right and at the (3-4 min.)
cross-roads take the second road to the left, with the plank side-walk.
In about 3 min. more a gateway to the right, with a small lodge, admits us
to the groands surrounding the Clifton or Sam Slick House (now a hotel,
p. 71) , an unpretending wooden cottage < which was the home of Judge
Thomas 0, ffaliburton ('Sam Slick' -, 17§7-i865), a native of Windsor. (By
crossing the field in front of the house we reach a view-commanding path,
high above the Avon, by which we may return to the town.) — Continu-
ing to follow the plank-walk from the entrance to the 'Sam Slick House%
we reach, passing a bridge over a ravine with some disused plaster-quarries
and through two gates, the (10 min.) plain old wooden building of KiBg''B
Oollege, with its Ionic portico. This college was chartered by George ni.
in 1785 and is now attended by a mere handful of students. The library
and chapel are of stone. A good "^Yiew is here obtained of the town and
its rivers. Close by are the CoUegiate School , for boys, and Edgehill^ a
church-school for girls (75-100 pupils). — Other good points of view are the
cupola of the Court House, a conspicuous red building on an adjoining hill,
and the grassy ramparts of the abandoned Fort Edward (1769), just above
the station.
Windsor, the Indian name of which was Pigiguit or Hsiquid ('junc-
tion of the waters'), was a thriving Acadian settlement before the expul-
sion of 1755 (see p. 73).
From Windsor to Truro^ see B. 23.
The railway runs through Windsor on the street -level and in
quitting it crosses the wide Avon by an iron bridge 1400 ft. long.
To the right is the road-bridge. The beauty of the view here
depends largely on the state of the tide. At full tide we see a large
and powerful river, with waters of a strange reddish hue; at low
tide there is little but slimy expanses of red mud — *an ugly rent
in the land* — recalling, though on a larger scale, the similar ef-
fects on the English Avon, at Bristol. We now leave the Avon for
a little, but regain it near (53 M.) Hantsport (American Hotel, $ 1 74),
a small but busy little ship-building port. Its shipping is owned
almost entirely by the Metars. ChurchiUy among the wealthiest and
largest ship-owners in the Dominion. We now skirt the wide estuary
of the Avon, enjoying flue views, on our right front, over the Minas
Basin. As we near (58 M.) Avot^ori, the bold C<q>e Blomidon (see
p. 74) comes into prominence on the W. side of the basin, forming
the dominant scenic feature for the next 10 M.
We now turn to the left (W.), leave the Avon^and cross the
Digitized by VjOOQIC
to St. John. EVANGELINE DISTRICT. 20. Route. 73
moath of the Oaspereau at (60 M.) Ilorton Landing, The high tide .
of the Bay of Fundy (p. 76) is well exemplified at the wharf heie^
— We then traverse the *Comwalli8 Valley^ the beginning of the
so-called ^Garden of Nova Scotia\ with its extensive fruit-orchards
and fertile pastures. In the blossoming season this is a veritable
paradise. We have also reached the *Land of Evangeline' (see
below). At (61 M.) Grand Pri we see, to the right, a group of old
willows marking the site of Evangeline's village.
64 M. Wolfville (Acadia Seminary Hotel, well spoken of, $2-
2V2; Boyal, $2} * Kent Lodge, $2; Acadia ViUa; Hillside Hall,
$ 2), a small town vath (1901) 1412 inhab., engaged in ship-build-
ing and farming , is the best centre from which to visit the *Evan-
geline District', though it still lacks a first- class botel. It is the
seat of an important Horticultural School and of Acadia College,
a flourishing Baptist institution (co - educational; 160 students),
situated on a hill at the W. end of the village. The •View from
the front- steps of the latter (or, still better, from its belfry) in-
cludes the Oomwallis Valley, backed by the North Mt. (p. 74),
ending in Cape Blomidon, the Minas Basin (p. 86), and the mead-
ows of Grand Prtf (see below). The village seen to the N., across an
arm of Minas Basin, is Kingsport (steamer, see p. 74). Near Acadia
College are Schools for girls and boys and a Manual Training Hall.
Evangeline District. The following round-drive of 10-12 M. will give
a very fair idea of the district celebrated by Longfellow in ^Evangeline'
(fare for 1-2 pers. about $2, 8-4 pers. $3). — We ascend to the top of
the ridge behind the town and follow the road along it towards the £.
Behind this ridge lies the beautiful * (7a<|7^eat( Fa/fey, recalling to some extent
the valley of the Dee, near Aberdeen ^ and the traveller should alight
from his vehicle, near the little French burying-ground , and walk to the
brow of the hill , in order to enjoy the view. Large quantities of the
small fish called 'gaspereauz' or ^alewives^ (^Alota vemalU; a kind of
herring) are taken in the winding Gaspereau , for export to India; and
trout may be caught in Gaspereau Lake. Numerous orchards are seen,
forming a lovely sight in the blossoming season (first week in June). — After
following the ridge for 21/2-3 M. we descend to the left towards the hamlet
of Grand Frd, passing the cross-roads supposed to be the site of ^Basil's
Forge". The site of the French village, close to the station (see above),
is marked by a clump of venerable willows, an old well, and the cellars
of a few cottages. From this point we may drive to the N., across the
expanse of fertile dyked meadows that gave name to the village ', and the
heart of the agriculturalist will rejoice in the splendid crops of hay with
which they are covered. To the right, near Horton Landing (see above), is
the point where the Acadians embarked on their expulsion. Ahead of us
we obtain fine views of Cape Blomidon (p. 74), across the Minas Basin. On
the seaward side of the ^Graat Meadow^ is Long Island, a fertile ridge
Occupied by near a score of small farms, but no longer an island since
the construction of reclaiming dykes. If desired, we can here drive right
down to the beach before returning to Grand Pr^ Station and so back to
Wolfville by the lower road. The reader of *Evangeline" must be warned
that he need not look for 'the forest primeval — the murmuring pines
and the hemlocks'.
The Expulsion of the Acadians in 1755 has been represented by Park-
men and otiier authorities as a simple act of self-preservation on the part
of the British on account of their irreconcilable hostilitv to British rule.
Recent researches made by Dr. Doughty (pp. Ixii, 147) seem Jo^ipove
74 Route 20. KENTVILLE. From Halifax
pretty conclusively tbat this was not the case. The expulsion was rather
the work of arbitrary provincial authorities (Cornwallis and lAwrence),
trho apparently acted without the knowledge of the Home Government,
declined to recognize the pledge given to the Acadians that fhey should
not be called on to bear arms against the French or Indians, and refused
them permission to emigrate elsewhere. — Comp. also the histories of
Acadia by Hamnay and Edouard Richard. The 'Story of Acadia\ an extract
from Hannay's history, is distributed gratis by the Railway Co.
Another historic association with Grand Pr^ is the surprise, defeat,
and capture of the Massachusetts regiment of Col. Noble by the French in
1747 (see Parkman't 'Half-Century of Conflict', chap. xxii).
A favourite drive from Wolfville leads through the fertile OomwaUia
Valley, passing Port Williams (see below), to (13 M.) the point called the
^Look'OJTi which affords a fine view over the Minas Basin. From this point
the drive may be prolonged for about 8 M. to the top of Cape Blomidon
(see below). The farms in the Cornwallis Valley are larger and more
pretentious than those of the Gaspereau Valley.
Beyond Wolfville the train ascends along the Cornwallis Rivery
views of which are obtained to the right. 66 M. Port Williams (Port
Williams Hotel, Village Ho., $1), considerably to the right of the
railway.
71 M. Eentville (Aberdeen Hotel^ near the station, $2; Porter,
$2; American^ $174* RaU, Restaurant) is a very attractive little
town of (1901) 1731 inhab., on the Cornwallis River, with the head-
quarters of the Dominion Atlantic Railway and several mills and
factories. Excellent fishing and shooting are obtained in the vicinity.
Fkom Kentvillb to Kingspobt, 14 M., railway in 'A hr. (fare 47 c).
— This branch-railway descends the fertile CornwaUi* Valley (comp. p. 73),
between rows of apple-trees, to (11 M.) Canning (Waverley, $ 1V«) and
(14 M.) Kingtport ((Central Ho., $ l^/s). Canning may be made the start-
ing-point of a delightful drive to the Look-Off (comp. above) and (9 M.)
*'Cape Blomidon, the massive promontory, 670 ft. high, in which the NotHh
Mountain (see p. 76) ends (•View from the top). A small steamer plies weekly
(Mon.) from Canning to St. John (p.. 27). Kingsport, with its fine sandy
beach , nestles in a recess of Minas Basin and promises to become a fa-
vourite seaside-resort.
A very charming excursion may be made from Kingsport by the daily
steamer of the Dominion Atlantic RaHway Steamthip Line to Parr^oro (IV2 hr.).
The boat passes close to the foot of Cape Blomidon^ affording the best view
of this majestic promontory. Between Blomidon and Caps Sharp^ where
the strait between the Minas Bay and Minas Channel is only 4 M. wide,
the tide rushes with tremendous velocity. Away to the W. lies Cc^pe
Splits twisted into its present position, says Micmac legend, by the demi-
god Olooicap, whose favourite haunt was the Basin of Minas. As we ap-
proach Patrsboro (see p. 86) we obtain a good view of the rugged Cum-
berland coast, off which lie the Five lelandi (p. 86), while in the bock-
ground rise the Cobequid Hills (p. 85). From Patrsboro the steamer crosses
the Basin of Minas to Wolfville (p. 73).
Stage-coaches run twice weekly (Tues. & Frid.) from Kentville to (25 M.^
New Ross, where they connect with another line for ('21 M.) Chuter (p. 78),
passing Oaspereau Lake and running through a picturesque district to the
Atlantic Coast. — Other pleasant drives may be taken to (11 M.) Halts
Harbour, to (13 M.) Baxter's Harbour, and to (16 M.) White Waters. Hall's
Harbour, which is a good place to witness the Bay of Fondy tide (p. 76),
is named from a landing made here by an American privateer in the war
of 1812.
Beyond Kentville the train passes through a fruit-growing dis-
trict, with several small stations. Near (83 M.) Bapvoick (Berwick,
Digitized by VjOO
to St. John. ANNAPOLIS. 20. Boute. 75
Old Homestead, $1V4)> ^^^^ its camp-meeting grounds, we pass
from the Gornwallis Valley to the *AimapoliB Valley, the 'Garden
of Nova Scotia'. From (88 M.) Aylesford a coach runs to the S.,
passing the Aylesford Lakes, to Dalhousie. — 98 M. Wilmot is the
station for the Wilmot Spa Springs (Hotel, unpretending), 3 M. to
the N., and the junction of a branch-line to the (3*72 M.) Torbrooh
Iron Mines. — 102 M. Middleton (MiddUton, Spa, $lV2i Ra^-
Sestaurant), with (1901) 969 inhab. , is the junction of th& Halifax ^
South Western Bailway (see p. 77). A pleasant drive may be taken
hence to Margaretsville and Tort George, on the Bay of Fundy.
Beyond Middleton , the Annapolis Valley , clearly defined by
the ridge of the North Mountain (500-700 ft.) to the right and that
of the South Mountain (300-800 ft.) to the left, is very attractive,
especially in the apple-blossom season (early in June). The Anna-
polis River flows to the left. 108 M. Lawrencetown. At (111 M.)
Paradise, over the name of which Mr. C. D. Warner makes some
perfectly uncalled-for merriment, we cross the river, which now
flows to the right and rapidly increases in width. — 116 M. Bridge-
town (Grand Central Hotel, St. James, $ 1V2)> * small town with
(1901) 858 inhab., at the head of navigation on the Annapolis River.
To the left lies Bloody Brook, the scene of a massacre of New Eng-
land troops by the French and Indians. Between this point and
Annapolis we have deHghtful views to the right over the widening
and winding river, with the hills beyond. — 124 M. Boundhill.
130 M. Annapolis or Annapolis Royal (Hillsdale, Queen, $2;
Clifton, American, McLeod, $lV2i ^* ^' Agent), a small seaport
with (1901) 1019 inhab., finely situated at the head of Annapolis
Basin, is the oldest European settlement in America to the N, of
Florida (see below). It carries on a brisk trade in fruit, and is fre-
quented by summer-visitors for its scenery and pleasant climate.
The chief lion is the old Fort, now dismantled, which dates back to
the 17th cent, and covers nearly 30 acres of ground. Like Fort
Edward (p. 72), it is Dominion property. The grassy ramparts com-
mand a charming *View over Annapolis Basin. A monument was
erected here to the Sieur De Monts (see below) in 1904. Some of
the older houses are quaint and picturesque, but none date from
the French period.
De Monts and Ghamplain visited Annapolis Basin in 1604, and the
Baron de Poutrincourt, a member of the expedition, was so impressed with
the charms of nature here that he secured a grant and named it Port
Royal. In the following year the survivors of the ill-fated settlement of
St. Croix Island found refuge at Port Royal, and in 1606 Letcarbot arrived
from France with a fresh body of settlers. The colony was abandoned
in 1607 on the revocation of De Monts** privileges by the King of France.
In 1610, however, Poutrincourt led another expedition to Port Royal, which
flourished for a time, living on the most friendly terms with the Indians
and converting a number of them to Christianity. This promising colony
was destroyed in 1613 by a Virginian expedition under Argall, at the
instigation of the Jesuits, with whom De Poutrincourt had quarrelled.
The site lay vacant for some years, but was ultimately re-occupied by
76 Route 20. DIGBY. From Halifax
fhe French ; and its history for the next century and a half is an endless
record of attack, capture, and recapture, which prevented the
acquiring anything beyond strategic importance. It was from Port I
record of attack, capture, and recapture, which prevented the place
acquiring anything beyond strategic importance. It was from PortBoyal
that Ghamisay sailed to attack La Tour at St. John (see p. 29). In 1710
Port Royal was finally captured by the New Englanders and re-named
Annapolis (after Queen Anne)) but their tenure of it was very precarious
until after the expulsion of the Acadians in 1755. The last warlike scene
took place here in 1781, when two American cruisers captured the fort
and plundered Uie town.
Beyond Annapolis the railway runs towards the S.W., skirting
the shore of the fine ^Annapolis Basixii which, 16 M. long and I1/2-
5 M. wide, is enclosed between the 'gracefully moulded and tree-
covered' heights of the North and South Mountains (see p. 75).'
In mid-channel lies Ooat Island. We have a good view of the old
fort to the right as we leave the town. 138 M. Clementsporty at
the mouth of the Moose River j a village of 800 inhab., near which
are iron-mines. At (144 M.) Bear River (Hotel, $ li/2) we cross the
stream of that name by a bridge 90 ft. high and nearly ^2 ^* long.
This district is famous for its cherries. The train now sweeps to the
right (N.), round the S.W. end of Annapolis Basin, and reaches —
150 M. Digby (The Pines, $2-5j Myrtle Ho., $21/2-31/2; Man-
hattan, $ 2-3 i Trefry Ho., $ 1 1/2-^* '^©U spoken of ; Dufferin, $ 1 72-2 ;
Waverley, $1^/2; ^f^^* Restaurant; V. 8. Agent) , a popular little
watering-place on Annapolis Basin , near Digby Out (see below),
with (1901) 1150 inhab. and a long pier. The bathing, boating, and
fishing are good. Excursions are made to Digby in the fruit-season
for the sake of its cherries (July), while its herrings, known as
*Digby Chickens', are famous throughout the Acadian provinces.
The so-called *Bear River Drive from Digby (fare $ 21/2) leads through
the Acacia Valley and back by the Bear River. — Another interesting
drive may be taken to the Lighthouse (see below j fare $ 2Vs).
Passengers for St. John change carriages at Digby and take the
transfer-train to the pier, where they board the steamer ^Prince
Rupert\ which belongs to the Dominion Atlantic Railway Co. This
fine boat performs the run to (50 M.) St. John In 2^/4-3 hrs.
On leaving Digby, the steamer passes out into the Bay of Fundy
by the curious *Digby 6at» a gap or cleft in the North Mountain,
2 M. long and 72 M. wide, with steep rocky sides 400-600 ft. high.
The tide rushes through here with great velocity, and it is also
usually swept by strong winds. On either side are small fishing-
hamlets, and on Point Prim, to the left, is a lighthouse. To the
right is Victoria Beach (p. 77). — The Bay of Fnndy, which we
now cross (from Digby Gut to St. John, 45 M.), is a gigantic inlet
of the Atlantic Ocean, 170 M. long and 30-50 M. wide, between
the S.W. arm of Nova Scotia and the opposite coast of New Brun-
swick. The name is probably derived from the Portuguese *Baya
fondo' (deep bay).
*The Bay of Fundy is celebrated for its tides, which are probably the
highest in the world, the difference between high and low water being
from 10 to over 50 feet in some places. At low tide muddy flats, often
miles in extent, are laid bare, and the long estuaries of the rivers and
to 8t. John, MIDDLETON. 20. Route. TJ
streams are completely drained. The extraordinary height of the tides in
this bay is due to its fannel-shaped form, and is greatest towards its nar-
row upper extremities , where in some places a dangerous hroken wave
or 'bore^ is produced by the rising water^ (0, M. Dawson).
As the steamei advances, we enjoy a good retrospect of the long
ridge of the North Mt. (p. 75). To the left are the Lurcher RockSy
marked by a lightship. As we approach the New Brunswick coast,
Cape Spencer, with its lighthouse, appears to the right. Farther on,
on the same side, is Mispec Point, beyond which we enter the fine
*Harbour ofSt, John, passing Partridge Island, with its light, on the
left. On the W. (1.) side of the harbour is West St, John or Carle-
ton, with its church-spires, grain-elevator, and martello tower. Our
steamer lands at the new pier at Reed^s Point (PI. D, 3).
St. John, see R. 10.
b. Vi& Kahone, Bridgewater, Middleton, and Victoria Beach.
Halifax A South Wbstebn Railway to (175 M.) Victoria Beach in 6 hrs.
(fare $ 5.76). The railway part of this route was opened in the autumn
of 1906.
From Halifax to (70 M.) Mahone and (81 M.) Bridge/water, see
R. 21a. Our line now diverges to the right from that to Yarmouth
(R. 21a) and runs towards the N. 92 M. Riversdale. From (98 M.)
New Germany , a German settlement, a branch-line runs to (15 M.j
Brookfield Mines (gold) and (22 M.) Caledonia, near Lake Rossignol
(p. 79) and Fairy Lake (good fishing). 105 M. Cherryfield; 108 M.
Springfield} 126 M. Alpena, not far from Fales Lake; 131 M. Nictaux,
near the Nictaux Falls and the Torhrook Mines (p. 75).
At (136 M.) Middleton (p. 75) we cross the Dominion At-
lantic Railway (R. 20a). — Our line now bends to the left and runs
towards the W. along the N. side of the Annapolis River and Basin
(pp. 75, 76), parallel with the Dominion Atlantic Railway. 144 M.
Clarerhce; 149 M. Bridgetown (p. 75)^ 163 M. Upper Oranville;
159 M. Oranville Centre; 163 M. Oranville Ferry, opposite Anna-
polls (p. 75) J 168 M. Karsdale, named in honour of the heroie
defence of Kars In 1855 by Sir WUliamFen\Dick WiUiams (1800-83),
a native of Annapolis.
176 M. Victoria Beach (p. 76) is a rising watering-place on the
E. Bide of Dighy Gut (p. 76).
c. Vi& Koncton.
275 H. Intercolonial Railtoay in 9-12 hrs. (fare $6; parlor -car $1,
sleeper $2). By this route travellers can pass between Halifax and St.
John by land, without change.
The places passed on this route have been already described.
From Halifax to (186 M.) Moncton, see pp. 83-87 ; fromMoncton to
(275 M.) St. John, see p. 48.
yGoogk
78
21. From Halifax to Tarmouth.
a. By Halifax and South Western Bailway.
247 M. Halifax £ South Western Railwat. This new line was
not yet open for through-trains when the Handbook went to press, but
trains were running between Baiifax and Liverpool (p. 79) and between
Barrington (p. 80) and Yarmouth (p. 80). The through-fare will be about
$6, while the time taken will be about 7 hrs.
Halifax^ see R. 18. On leaving tlie city the railway diverges to
the left from the Intercolonial Line to Moncton (R. 24) and the
Dominion Atlantic Railway to Digby (R. 20a), at the point where
the Narrows broaden into Bedford Basin, and runs toward the S.W.
To the left are seen the dome of the exhibition building, the citadel,
and the N.W. Arm. The line at first traverses a rough country,
necessitating many heavy stone cuttings, past numerous lakes
(left) from which Halifax receives its excellent water-supply, and
at (20 M.) French Village reaches the beautiful 8t, Margarets Bay.
It skirts the shore of the bay, affording fine views to the left and
passing (24 M.) St. Margaret's Bay Station and (29 M.) Ingram
Port. Beyond (35 M.) Huibbards (Gainsborough , well spoken of,
$1^2; Somerset, $1V2)> * delightful summer-resort, the railway
leaves St. Margaret's Bay and proceeds through a wooded district
to (42 V2 M.) East River ^ on the E. shore of Mahone Bay, At (48 M.)
E(ut Chester the isles of Chester Basin begin to appear, said to
equal in number the days of the year.
51 M. Chester (Hackmatack Inn^ $81/2; Lovett Ho., $2) is
prettily situated on a hill, overlooking Mahone Bay, and is a
fashionable Nova Scotian summer-resort on account of its scenery,
boating, bathing, and fishing (sea and fresh water). The village
was founded by New Englanders in 1760 and now contains about
1800 inhabitants. Mt, Aspotogan (500 ft.) is a fine view-point. —
About 4 M. to the S.W. is Oak Island, firmly believed by many to
be the repository of Capt. Kidd's Treasure. Various companies have
been formed to dig for the gold.
The line continues to encircle the shore, passing (56^/4 M.)
ChesUr Basin (Bay View, $ 1), until at (60 M.) Western Shore we
get a view of Chester to the left, directly across the beautiful bay. —
70 M. Mahone or Mahone Bay (Royal, $ IV2J Aberdeen, $ 1) is a
small town charmingly situated at the W. end of Mahone Bay.
Fbom Mahone to Lunenbubo, 7 M., branch- railway in 1/2 hr. — Lunen-
burg (King's Hotel, 32j U.S. Aeent, i£r. D. M. Owen), a prosperous seaport
on Lunenburg Bay, with (1901) 2196 inhab., was settled in 1753 by German
immigrants (comp. p. 52), and still largely retains its German character.
It has a good harbour, shipbuilding yards, and a large fisbing-fl€et, and
exports large quantities of fish. Comp. ^History of the County of Lunen-
burg', by M. B. Det BrUaj/ (2nd ed., 1895). — On the S. side Luncn-
SHELBURNE. 21. Route. 79
buii; Bay is bounded. by the Ovens Peninsula^ so called from the curioug
cayerns which penetrate tbe clifif for hundreds of feet. A considerabls
quantity of gold was formerly found on this peninsula, but little minine
is now done.
From Mahone the railway makes a loop to the N. to —
81 M. Bridgewater (Fairview, $2j Rail, Restaurant; U. S. Agent,
Mr, W. H, Owen), situated on both banks of the La Have River, a
thriving port of (1901) 3000 inhab., with a lumber-trade and various
manufactures. It is the headquarters of fhe'Halifax ^ South Western
Railway (p. 78). The excellent supplies of water and electric light
are furnished by the town-government. Good trout-fishing is to be
had in the neighbourhood.
From Bridgewater to MiddieUm and Yidoria Beach^ see B. 20b.
Small local steamers ply on the La Have River between Bridgewater
and Riverport and La Have Island,
Leaving Bridgewater station, the train crosses the picturesque
La Have River just above the town and ascends from the valley
between hill-tops crowned with homesteads. 89 M. ConqueraU is
the station for a place of that name several miles distant on the La
Have. 99 M. County Line marks the boundary between Lunenburg
aiid Queen's counties. 103 M. Medway (Revere, $1V2)» ^ M. from
the station, is a prosperous flshing-town on a bay which juts in from
the Atlantic. Beyond (110 M.) Brooklyn the train skirts Liverpool
Bay and reaches —
112 M. Liverpool (Mersey, $ 2; U. S. Agent, Mr. J, M. Mack),
a small seaport on the Mersey, with (1901) 1937 inhab., a trade in
lumber and fish, ship-building yards, and several manufactories.
It is pleasantly situated on a spacious harbour, with numerous fine
old residences that give the place an air of distinction.
The inland portion of the E. half of the peninsula of Kova Scotia is
thickly studded with lakes, the largest of which is Lake Rostignol (12 M.
by 8M.), about 20 M. from Liverpool. These lakes, with their connecting
streams, afford excellent fishing, and are easily explored, with competent
guides, in canoes or flat-bottomed boats. They may also be approached
£rom Annapolis (p. 76) or from some of the intermediate stations on the
Ifiddleton section of the Halifax & South Western Railway (p. 78). An arm
of Lake Rossignol is bordered by the beautiful *Indicm Gardens, a natural
park fuU of English oaks.
Beyond Liverpool the railway proceeds in the same general S.W.
direction. 124 M. Port Mouton, on Port Mouton Bay, which was
visited by De Monts in 1604 and named to commemorate the loss of
one of his scanty supply of sheep. — From (151 M.) Fronde's Point
a small steamer plies to Lockeport, a flshlng-centre with a superb
beach. The line now turns to the N., and beyond (157 M.) Oreen
Harbour bends to the N.W.
163 M. Shelbnme (Atlantic Ho., $2; U. S. Agent, Mr, Edward
M, Bill), a small fishing and ship-building port, with (1901) 1445
inhab., lies at the head of a safe and beautiful harbour. About 1785
its population rose to 12,000, through the immigration of United
Empire liOyalists, and for a brief space it seemed as if Shelbunie
80 Route 21. YARMOUTH. From Halifax
. were going to outstrip Halifax. Beyond Shelburne the line again
trends to the S.W. 188 M. Port Clyde (McKay*s Hotel).
196 M. Barrinifton (Scotia, Christie; U. S. Agent, Mr, T, W.
Robertson) lies at the head of Barrington Bay, with (1901). 784 in-
hab. and considerable fisheries. — 199 M. Barrington Pcusage,
From Barrington Passive a steam-ferry plies to Clark"* Harbour (p. 81)
and other points on Cape Bable Island.
Beyond Barrington Passage the railway (formerly the Coastal
Railwayof Nova Scotia) turns to the N.W. 207 M. Wood^s Harbour;
218 M. East Pubnico, — 220 M. Pubnico (various small inns, $ 1),
on Pubnico Harbour (j^. 82), a sporting-resort, was founded about 1650
by the Baron Pobomcoup, whose name it represents in a corrupted
form, — 224 M. Lower ArgyU; 226 M. Central Argyle; 230 M. Argyle
(Frost's Hotel), a good centre for shooting (blue-winged duck, etc.)
and fishing. Fine view to the left of *Tusket Bay, with its innumer-
able islands. 236 M. Belleville, a French Acadian settlement ; 239 M.
2V4«fce* (American House, $1V2; Village Ho., $1), the station for
Tusket River and Lakes (excellent fishing for salmon, trout, and ale-
wives; comp. p. 82); 241 M. Pleasant Lake-, 245 M. Arcadia.
248 M. Yarmouth (Orand Hotel, well spoken of, with a fine
view of the town, harbour, and environs, $ 2^2*3 Vsj (?Mc«n, $ 1V2-3 ;
U. S. Consul, Mr. E, A, Creevey), a prosperous seaport with (1901)
6430 inhab., ship-building yards, manufactures of woollen cloth,
cotton duck, and sail-cloth, and a large trade in fish, lies at the
head of a small harbour near the S. extremity of Nova Scotia. It
claims to be the most active maritime place of its size in the world,
ranking fourth (after Montreal, St. John, and Windsor) among the
ship-owning cities of Canada. It is frequented by a considerable
number of summer-visitors, and is noted for its beautiful hedges.
There is a service of electric cars, extending to MUton, Battery
Point, and other neighbouring resorts. The favourite short excur-
sion is by steam-launch to the prettily laid out Bay View Park
(restaurant), with its charming views. At the entrance to Yarmouth
Harbour, behind Cape Fourchu (p. 82), lies MarfctoruZ (Markland
Hoteli 180 ft. above the sea, $1V2)» reached by steamer from Yar-
mouth in i/2 hr. and affording good bathing and deep-sea fishing.
From Yarmouth to Boston, see B. 7b; to Eali/ax and intermediate ports
by sea see B. 21 b. Steamers also ply from Yarmouth to St. John (B. 10)
and other ports. — Coaches ply to several places not accessible by railway
or steamer. Excursions may be mad^ to the Tusket District (p. 82), Port
Maitkmd, and other points.
b. By Steamer.
The steamer ''Senlac\ owned by Wm. Thomson tt Co. of St. John, leave
Halifax every Hon. at 6 p.m. for Yarmouth (fare $ 6), calling at various in-
termediate points and leaving Yarmouth for 8t. John (through -fare $6;
return-fare $ 10.50) on Wed. morning. The steamer *Bridgcwater' of the
Coastal Packet Co. plies twice weekly to Bridgewaier ($ 2). The above fares
do not include meals. The E. coast of Nova Scotia, which these steamers
skirt, is indented by numerous bays and fringed with thousands of rocks
•>^d islets. Digitized by Google
to Yarmouth. BARRINGTON BAY. 21. Route. 81
Halifax^ see R. 18. The steamer descends the harbour, passing
George^s Island (p. 56) and Macndb's Island (p. 66). At Herring Cove
(r.) is a cairn commemorating Oeorge Brown, the oarsman, a native
of the place. We then round Chebucto Head and Cape Samhro, and
steer towards the W, Numerous shipwrecks have occurred here. To
the right, farther on, opens the wide St. Margaret's Bay (p. 78).
Straight ahead of us is the large Mahone Bay (p. 78), with the
towns of Chester (p. 78) and Mahone (p. 78), at which some of the
smaller steamers call.
The course of the Bridgewater boat is laid for Cross Island Light,
to the S. of Mahone Bay, passing which (left) we enter Lunenburg
Bay (p. 78).
45 M. LunenboTgy see p. 78.
The Bridgewater steamer now rounds OvemHead, steers between
Bote Head (r.) and Cross Island, passes Point EnragS, and runs
between Calf Point (r.) and Ironhound Island (1.) with its light-
house. It then ascends the long, narrow estuary of the *La Have
Biver to —
67 M. Bridgewater (see p. 79).
Rounding Cape La Have, on an island off the mouth of the river,
the steamer steers to the S»W., passing near Port Medway, Farther
on, Coffin Island, with its lighthouse, marks the entrance to Liverpool
Bay, near the head of which, on the river Mersey, lies —
105 M. Liyerpool (see p. 79).
The next bay of any size beyond Liverpool Bay is Port Mouton
(see p. 79). Farther on are Ldtth Hope Island (revolving red light),
Port Joli, Lockeport (see p. 79), Carter^ s Island (red light) , and
ChiU Bock Ledge (white light). We then cross the wide estuaries of
Oreen Harbour and Jordan Biver, pass Bony's Point and Qovemment
Point, and begin to ascend the sheltered Shelbume Harbour, leaving
McNutfs Island^ with its two fixed Vhite lights, to the left.
145 M. Shelbume, see p. 79.
In leaving Shelburne Harbour the steamer rounds Cape Boseway,
the S. extremity of McNutt's Island. Farther on we pass Negro
Island (red and white flashing light), off the mouth of the Clyde;
Blanche Island} and Port Latour, with some relics of the fort of the
Sieur de la Tour. Beyond Baccaro Point (red light) we turn to the
right and ascend Barrington Bay. To the left lies the sandy Cape
Sable Island, supposed by some to be the ^Markland^ on which Leif
Ericson landed in 994. The Acadian settlement which afterwards
occupied the island was broken up in 1758, and about 25 years later
Tvas replaced by New England Loyalists. There is a summer-hotel
($ 1 1/2) at Clark's Harbour, a village on the island. Cape Sable itself,
tlie scene of many shipwrecks, is an islet to the S. of the larger island.
173 M. Barrington, see p. 80.
The steamer leaves the open sea, and steers towards the N.W.
To the left, at some distance, lies Seal Island, the 'Elbow of the
Bakdkkxb'8 Canada. 3rd Edit. 6 ^ ^
82 Route 22, WEYMOUTH.
Bay of Fundy', with its fixed wMte light. To the N. open Pubnico
and Abv^tic Harbour$,
"We now cross the estuary of the Tuiket Biver and thread the
singular and beautiful archipelago of the *Tu8ket Islands, A little
later the steamer passes Jebogue or Chebogue Point and enters Yar-
mouth Sound. To the left is Cape Fourchu, with its powerful light.
218 M. Yarmouth f see p. 80.
22. From Digby to Taxmouth.
67 M. Dominion Atlanxic Bailwat in 2V4-5 lirs. (fare $2; parlor-
car 45 c.). Through-train from Halifax to (217 M.) Yarmouth in 7-9 hrs.
(fare $65 parlor-car $1.25). Comp. p. 71.
Digby, see p. 76. Beyond Digby the train crosses the isthmus
between Annapolis Basin and *8t. Mary's Bay and then skirts the
shore of the latter (views to the right). Across the bay are the
hills of Digby Neck, a long narrow peninsula forming the S. pro-
longation of North Mt. (p. 75) and itself prolonged by Long Island
and Brier Island. — 22 M. Weymouth (Weymouth Ho., Goodwin's,
$11/2; 685 inhab.), settled by Loyalists and the most important
place between Digby and Yarmouth, is a good starting-point for
St. Mary's Bay (see above) and the Tusket fishing-region (see above).
The line bends inland and follows the Sissibou River (falls, near
Weymouth) to 8t, Bernard's y regaining the shore of the bay at
(24 M.) BeUiveau,
The district of Clare, through which the railway now runs, is
peopled by returned Acadian exiles, who have preserved their French
characteristics almost unimpaired. They are settled chiefly along
the beautiful St. Mary's Bay (see above), of which glimpses may
be had to the right. The train passes several small stations and
beyond (37 M.) Meteghan (1214 inhab. ; 5 M. from the railway) turns
inland, running first to the S. E. and then to the S. Several other
insignificant stations are passed in the region of lake and forest
between this point and Yarmouth.
67 M. Yarmouth, see p. 80.
23. From Windsor to Truro.
58 M. Midland Extension of Douinion Atlantic Bailwat in 2-4 hrs.
(fare $ 1.75). This railway is of some importance as forming the central
section of a trunk-line from Yarmouth to (444 M.) Sydney (no through-trains).
Windsor, see p. 71. Leaving Windsor the train diverges to the
left from the Dominion Atlantic line to Halifax, and follows the
8t, Croix River (left), with wharves for shipping to New York the
plaster produced in the Wentworth Quarries (to the right). We cross
the river near (6 M.) Brooklyn (Gibson's), beyond which the line
bends somewhat to the N. Farther on it crosses the Hebert Biver, a
small tributary of the St. Oroix. From (10 M.) ScotHsh ViUage (Mrs.
Digitized byCjOOQlC
BEDFORD. 24. Route. 83
Nelson's), 1 M. from tlie station, a daily stage inns to (15 MJjWaltonf
an attractive place on the Basin of Minas (p. 72).
Beyond (12 M.) MosherviUe the railway enters the valley of the
Kennetcodk River, which it ascends for nearly 25 M. 19 M. Cla'/ksvilU
(Mrs. Clark's), with a productive antimony-mfne, is the station for
(3 M.). West Qore and (8 M.) Upper Rawdon. As the train proceeds
np the valley it crosses and recrosses the river hefore reaching
(26i/2 M.) Ker^netcooJc (Barrow*s, Singer's). Here connection may
be made by carriage with (8 M.) Noel and (15 M.) Tenrucape Mines,
on Gobeqnid Bay. The Minas and Cobeqnid shore thus made acces-
sible is a pleasant one for the tonrist to visit. Manganese-mines
and gypsnm-qnarries are found there, and borings have also been
made for oil.
At (30 M.) Patterson (Mrs. O'Brien's), a farming community, the
train leaves the Eennetcook River (here insignificant). Beyond
(36 M.) Burton's we cross the Five Mile River, which flows into the
Shubenacadle. — From (40 M.) South Maitland (Midland House)
a stage runs to (5 M.) Maitland (Commercial ; Mrs. Dart's), formerly
a large ship-building port, whence a steamer rnns fortnightly to
Parrsboro (p. 74). The (8 M.) Noel Shore (comp. above) may be
reached by the same stage. — Between South Maitland and (42 M.)
Cheen Oaks the train crosses the Shubenacadie River by a costly steel
bridge, having five spans and a draw, which proved very difficult to
build owing to the height and strength of the tide. Beyond (46 M.)
PtineeportRoad (2 M. from Princeport) the train approaches Cobequid
Bay, and after leaving (51 M.) Clifton it affords excellent views of
the bay, and the Cobequid Mts. on the opposite shore. At (63 M.)
McNutts Creek we reach the Salmon River (left), the bank of which
we follow to —
68 M. Truro (see p. 84).
24. From Halifax to Quebec (Livis) by Railway.
674 M. Imtbboolonxai. Railwat in 19V3-21V2 brs. (fare $14.86; sleeper
$ 4). [From Halifax to (837 M.) Montreal in 24-27 hrs. ($ 18.45; sleeper $ 4).]
This railway, owned and managed by the Dominion Government, gives access
to the summer-resorts of Cape Breton, Nova Scotia, and New Brunswick,
and to many of the famous fishing-rivers of New Brunswick, traverses the
picturesque valley of the Matapedia, and skirts the S. shore of the St. Lawrence.
It connects at different points with steamers to the Gasp^ Peninsula and to
Prince Edward Island. The railway uses the 24- hour system of time
nutation {p. 236), and its trains run on E. Standard Time between Montreal
and Campbellton (N. B.) and on Atlantic Standard Time (1 hr. earlier) in
the Maritime Provinces (p. xii).
Halifax, see p. 60. Beyond (4 M.) Rockingham (hotel), with
a laige convent-school for girls, the train skirts the shore of the
beautifnl Bedford Basin (views to the right). — 9M. Bedford (Bed-
ford, Bellevue, $lV2-^)i at the head of Bedford Basin (p. 68), is a
6*
84 Route 24, TRURO. From Halifax
favourite summei-resbrt of the Haligonians. — We cross Rocky
Lake. To the right diverges the short hranch-line to (13 M.) Dart-
mouth (p. 58). At (14 M.) Windsor Junction the Dominion Atlantic
Railway diverges to the left (see R. 20a). We next pass Long Lake,
on our right. A little farther on, at (23 M.) Grand Lake Station^ the
lake, well stocked with whiteflsh, lies to the left. Near (28 M.)
Enfield are the Oldham and the Renfrew Gold MineSj both profitably
worked. — For some distance before reaching (40 M.) Shubenacadie
(accent on ante-pennultimate) we have on our right the river of
that name and we cross it just beyond the town. Stages run hence
to (18 M.) Maitland (p. 83). — The line proceeds to the N.E. and
N. through a district of no great interest. 45 M. Stewiacke, on the
Stewiacke River; 54 M. Brookfield.
62 M. Tniro(55ft.; ^Stanley Ho,y Learmont, OranvUle, $2;
Victoria, $172} Rail. Restaurant), a town of (1901) 5993 inhab.,
with manufactures of hats, hardware, iron and steel castings, machin-
ery, saddlery, boots and shoes, woollen goods, and condensed milk, is
also the centre of a large agricultural district and a railway-junction
of some importance (comp. RR. 19a, 23). It is situated on the Salmon
River, about 2 M. from thQ head of Cobequid Bay, the easternmost
arm of the Bay of Fundy, and was founded in 1761 as a colony of
Scoto-Irish settlers from New Hampshire. The streets are well laid
out and shaded with fine trees ; and altogether the little town makes
a very pleasant and friendly impression. Among the chief buildings
are the Po$t Office; the Normal School (about 200 students), with a
statue of Dr. Forester, its former principal and a prominent edu-
cator, in front of it; and the Truro Academy, A good view of the
town and neighbourhood is obtained from the roof of the Exhibition
Building, The * Victoria or Joseph Howe Park (reached by crossing
the overhead bridge at the railway-station), in a beautiftil little
wooded glen. Is one of the most attractive municipal pleasure-grounds
in America. About 1 M. up the stream are the picturesque little
*Joe Howe Falls,
The Salmon Biver, where it enters the bay, 2 M. from the city, is
spanned by ihe Board-landing Bridge, a good point to view the tidal phenom-
ena of the Bay of Fundy (p. 76). About 10 M. down the bay lie Savaffe^s
Island (with an old Acadian and Indian burial-ground) and Old Bams, the
site of an Acadian settlement. — Penny* s Mt., SVs H. to the N.E. , com-
mands a delightful *View, including the Cobequid Mts. (p. 86) and North
Mt. (p. 75), with Cape Blomidon. — The streams near Truro afiford some
fair fishing. Moose occur in the Stemacke Mts,, about 12-15 M. to the E.
(Indian guides obtainable at Truro). Partridge, snipe, and wild-fowl are
plentiful.
From Truro to Stellarton (Pictou) and Cape Breton, see B. 19a; to Windsor,
see B. 23.
Beyond Truro we obtain views of Cobequid Bay before reaching
(73 M.) Debert, — From (79 M.) Londonderry (320 ft) a branch-
line runs to (3 M.) the important Acadia Iron Works, The London-
derry mines produce both Limonite and Spathic ores, which are
smelted together and produce a good quality of pig-iron. — We
to Qutbec. AMHERST. 24, Route. 85
cross FoUeigh Valley by a viaduct, 600 ft. long and 82 ft. high, and
ascend the Cohequid Hills (400-1000 ft.), which run E. and W.
through this part of the peninsula for about 100 M. Passing FoUeigh
Lake (610 ft.), the highest point of this part of the line, we descend
to (91 M.) Wentworth, We enjoy a charming view of the ♦ Wentworth
Valley i below us, to the right, before reaching (96 M.) Westchester,
Leaving the Gobequid Hills behind us, we now traverse a thickly-
wooded district to (108 M.) Oxford Junctiont the starting-point of
the Oxford ^ Pictou Branch of the railway (see below).
The chief stations on this branch are (8 M.) Oxford (Oxford Ho.), with
woollen mills} 16 M. Pugwcuh Junction, for a side-line to (6 M.) Pugwcuh
(Central, $ IVa; Acadia, Minto, $ IV^i Oer. Oonsnlar Agent), a seaport and
watering-place on Northnmberland Strait (p. 98), almost destroyed by fire
in 18985 23 M. TToltoce (Wallace Ho. i Hillside, 311/4)5 35 M. Tatamagouehe
(Stirling Ho.. $ iV4)i on a beautiful bay, well seen from the railway, with
oyster-beds, boating, and fishing; 47 M. Biver John (Riverside), yet another
popular little summer-resort 5 and (67 M.) Brown"* Pointy the junction of
the short branch-line firom Pictou to Stellarton. — 60 M. Pietou is described
at p. 60.
The next stations on the I.C.R. are (111 M.) River Philip,
(115 M.) SaU Springs, and (121 M.) i^inghill, the last the junction
of the Oimberland Railway to (32 M.) Parrshoro (see below).
Pamboro (Orand Central, $lV4i Queen^s, $ l-iVii Evangeline^ $ IVti
these three indifferent \ Brodrick^s, $ 11/21 at Parrsboro Pier, about 1 M. from
the town, well spoken of ^ IT. 8. Com. Agent), a small lumber and coal-
trading port on the Basin 0/ Minus, with (1901) 2705 inhab., is frequented
as a summer-resort, for its fishing, shooting, and other attractions. Some
of the best caribou and moose shooting in Kova Scotia is within reach
of Parrsboro, and bears are also occasionally seen. The harbour is shel-
tered by Partridge Island (fine views). Pleasant walks or drives (good
roads) may be taken to the Moose River Falls, Cascade Valley, the Five
Islands, Advocate Harbour (coach), Cape d^Or, and other points. The geol-
ogist will find much to interest him in the coast. Steamers ply from
Parrsboro to Kingsport (p. 74). Cape Blomidon (p. 74) is* about 8 M. distant.
The Springhill Coal Mines, about 5 M. f^om Springhill Junction, on
the railway to Parrsboro, have an annual output of about 600,000 tons. In
1894 a monument was erected at the adjoining town of Springhill (Royal
Hotel) to commemorate 125 miners killed by an explosion in 1891.
The next stations on the main line are(127M.) Atftoi and (130 M.)
Maccan, From the latter, which is situated amid coal-fields, a short
branch-railway runs to (12 M.) Joggins, another coal-mining place.
The Jogglna Shore, extending along Chigneeto Bay, has fine cliffs, 100-
400 ft. high, and exhibits wonderful petrified forests and sections of car-
boniferous strata, which have been visited and described by Sir Ghas.
Lyell, Sir William Dawson, and Sir W. E. Logan.
The railway now proceeds to (134 M.) Nappan, the seat of a
Government experimental farm, and runs towards the N.
138M. Amherst (55 ft. ; TerraceHo,, $2; Amherst Ho., fiy 2-"^),
one of the most progressive and important towns of Nova Scotia
with (1901) 4964 inhab., lies not far from the head of Cumberland
Basin, an arm of the Bay of Fundy, It contains many substantial
buildings and carries on a brisk trade in lumber and in the produce
of the fertile marshes all round it. It is likewise a flourishing nwiui-
86 Route 24. SACKVILLE. From Halifax
facturing town, possessing car-works, engine and machine works,
a boot and shoe factory, and other industries. Pleasant drives may
be taken to (17 M.) Tidnish, a summer-resort on Northumberland
Strait where boating and. deep-sea fishing may be enjoyed, to Baie
Verte, to Fort Beausijour (see below), etc.
Near (141 M.") Fort Lawrence Station was the W. terminus of
the proposed Chignecto Ship Railway (see below).
The object of this railway was to save ships the long detour necessary
in going from the Bay of Fundy to the Gulf of St. Lawrence. It was in-
tended to lift ships of 1000 tons* burden on to a huge ship-carriage by
powerful hydraulic presses and then haul them across the isthmus by loco-
motives. After absorbing large sums of money, the scheme has been
abandoned. The works are most conveniently «visited by carriage from
Amherst (p. 85).
We now cross the Missiguash (see below) and enter New Brun-
swick (p. 36). We see the remains oiFort Beatuejour (see below),
on the right, before crossing the Aulac and reaching (144 M.) the
town of Aulac. No vestiges of Fort Lawrence (see below) remain.
The Chignecto Peninsula, which we are now crossing, connects Nova
Scotia (Acadia) with New Brunswick and was the scene of some of
the last struggles between the French and British nation alities in
Canada (1755).
The French insisted that ^Aeadia\ which they had ceded to Great
Britain, comprised only the peninsular portion of the Maritime Provinces
and that the Missiguash (see above) was the boundary between the French
and British possessions. The strong Fort Beausijour was built to the N.
of that river, to defend the frontier. The warrior-priest Le Loutre made
this his headquarters and was indefatigable in his exertions to persuade
or force the Acadians of the isthmus to renounce their British allegiance.
The British built Fort Lawrence^ on the other side of the Missiguash.
In 1755 Gol. Monckton succeeded in capturing Fort Beaus^jour, the name
of which was changed to Fort Cumberland; and it was afterwards allowed
to fall into decay.
Beyond Aulac the I.C.B. traverses the famous Taniramar or
Tintamarre Marshes , containing about 40 sq. M. of exuberantly
fertile salt-meadows, reclaimed, like the polders of Holland , from
the sea by dykes. Through the midst of the marshes , which bear
splendid crops of hay, runs the Tantramar River, the appearance of
which varies greatly at low and high tide. — 148 M. SaekviUe (Brun-
swick, $172-2), a small ship-building town with about ISOOinhab.,
is the junction of a railway to Cape Tormentine (see below). It is
the seat of Mt. Allison CoUege, a Methodist institution with 125
students, and exports cattle and hay to England.
The New Bsunswick & Pbincb Edwabd Island Bailwat, running from
Sackville to (36 M.) Cape Tormentine^ is of importance as the winter mail
route to Prince Edward Island. The steamers to Summerside and Ohar-
lottetown (see p. 97) have to cease running in winter on account of the
ice, and their place is taken by the *Minto' and 'Stanley", two strong iron
boats specially built for forcing their way through the floating ice, which
ply from Pictou to Gharlottetown and Georgetown (comp. p. 97). Oc-
casionally during the winter even these steamers are unable to make their
regular trips, and recourse is then had to strongly-built row-boats with
two keels (like the runners of a sleigh), which are propelled through the
1
to Quebec. MONCTON. 24. Route. 87
water or over the ice as occasion demands ; and these follow the shortest
route hetween the mainland and the island (from Gape Tormentine to Cape
Traverse, 10 M.).
The railway now runs athwart the peninsula between Cumber-
land Basin and Shepody Bay. — 160 M. Dorchester (Windsor Ho.,
$ IV2-3), a small port at the junction of the Memramcook with the
Petitcodiac, with about 1260 inhab., exports grey sandstone from
the neighbouring quarries. The prominent stone building on the
hills aboye the town Is the Penitentiary of the Maritime Provinces. - —
The railway now turns to the N. and runs through the valley of the
Memramcook, passing (165 M.) CoUege Bridge, the station for
St. Joseph's College (R. C), and (167 M.) Memramcook^ a flourishing
Tillage, the centre of a farming district peopled by Acadian French.
At (179 M.) Painsec Junction diverges a branch-line to (11 M.)
Point du Chtru, one of the chief starting-points for Prince Edward
Island (com p. p. 97).
On this branch lies (9 M.) Shediao {Weldon, $11/^, a small bathing-
resort on Shedicte Bay, famous for its oysters and its fine sandy beach.
Anglers may catch brook-trout, sea-trout, bass, and mackerel. — 11 M.
Point du CMne (Point du Chgne Ho., $ li/s) is a small village on a sandy
point, with long piers running out into deep water. Steamer hence to
Summertide, P. £. I., see p. 97.
186M. Moxiotoii(40ft.; Brurmpfcjk, $2-272; lfm<o, from $2}
American, from $2; Rail. Restaurant; U. S. Consul, Mr. 0. Beutel-
spacher^j the second city in New Brunswick, with (1901) 9026 inhab. ,
has manufactures of iron castings, machinery, locomotives, leather,
cotton, wooden waies, woollen goods, and flour, lies at the head of
navigation of the Petitcodide River, and is a railway-centre of con-
siderable importance. It is the headquarters of the Intercolonial
Railway, whose plain but substantial General Offices are, perhaps,
the most noteworthy building of the enterprising little city. There
are also some solid stone business-blocks and good churches. The
Petitcodiac flows into the Bay of Fundy (p. 76), and the tide ascend-
ing its estuary comes in the form of a *bore' or tidal wave 4-6 ft.
high. The difference between extreme high, and* extreme low,
tide at Moncton is 30 ft. A small steamer occasionally sails down
tbe river to- the Bay of Fundy, stopping at Hillsboro (p. 48). —
Pleasant drives may be taken to (17 M.) Shediac (see above), and
to (24'M.) Hopewell Cape, with its remarkable rocks of red sandstone,
sculptured into fantastic shapes by the powerful tides.
F20M MoMCTON TO BncToncHE, 32 H., Moncton & Buctouche Railway in
2 hrs. (fare 96 c, second class 65 c). — This railway runs towards the N.
The intermediate stations are unimportant. Buctouche, an Acadian ship-
building village of 5(X) inhab., at the mouth of the Buctouche River, attracts
a few summer-visitors.
At Moncton the Intercolonial Railway forks, the main line going
on to Quebec and Montreal, while the line to St. John (see R. 17)
diverges to the left.
From Moncton the line at first runs for a short distance towards
the N.W. and beyond (194 M.) Berry's Mills turns *0(*^f)SvTle'^*
88 Route 24. NEWCASTLE. From Halifax
(205 M.) Canaan we cross the river of that name. 214 M. Coal
Branch; 2i7M,Adam8viUe; 223 M. Harcourt, the station foTWeld-
ford. — From (232 M.) Kent Junction (Walsh Ho., $1) the Kent
Northern Railway runs to (27 M.) Richihucto (fare $1) and (34 M.)
8t, Louis (fare $1.25; see helow).
Bichibncto (Kent^ $ 11/2; U. S. Com. Agent) is a town of (1901) 3879 inhab.,
at the month of the river of the same name, with ship-yards and a trade
in timber. It is also frequented to some extent for sea-bathing. — 8t. Louis
is a typical Acadian settlement, with a fine church, a convent, and a sacred
well to which pilgrimages are made for the healing of ailments.
The district now traversed is scantily se tied and of little in-
terest. — At (258 M.) Chatham Junction we intersect the line from
Chatham to Fredericton (p. 89). From (260 M.) Derby Junction a
branch-line runs along the bank of the S. W. Miramichi to (14 M.)
Indiantown. To the right lies Beaubair Island (see below). The
train now crosses the arms of the Miramichi (see below), just below
their confluence, by two bridges, each 1200 ft. long.
264 M. Newcastle or Miramichi (130 ft. ; Miramichi, $ 2-21/2}
Waverley, $ lV2~^j ^' '^' (^om. Agent), a ship-building and timber-
trading town of (1901) 4130 inhab., is situated on the left bank of
the Miramichi, at the head of deep-water navigation. It is also the
centre of a fishing and hunting district. — On the opposite (S.)
shore, 6 M. lower down and reached either by steamer or railway
(see p. 89), lies Chatham (Adams Ho., $lV2-2; Bowsers, $1V2)
Fr, Cons. Agent ; Qer. Consul), the chief place on the Gulf coast of
New Brunswick, with an excellent harbour, ship-yards, pulp-mills,
foundries, and a large lumber-trade. Like Newcastle, it is a famous
resort for sportsmen. Pop. (1901) 6624. The most conspicuous build-
ings are the Roman Catholic Cathedral, the College of St. Michael,
the Convent, and the Hospital (all of wood).
The Miramichi (a corruption of an Indian name of unknown meaning;
accent on the last syllable), on the estuary of which these towns lie, is
second to the Bestigouche alone am9ng the salmon-rivers of New Brun-
swick. It is formed by the junction, a little way above Newcastle (see
above), of the Norlh-Wezt Miramichi and the South- West Miramichi ^ and
each 01 these has an extensive network of tributaries, some of which over-
lap the tributaries of the St. John. The best salmon-pools are on the
S. W. Miramichi (which is really the main river) and its branches, but
good fishing is obtained throughout the entire system. The district drained
by the Miramichi is, perhaps, 6000 sq. M. in extent, and much of it is stiU
almost unexplored. It is covered by forests, which harbour large quanti-
ties of game and yield much valuable spoil to the lumberman. In 1826
it was swept over by one of the largest forest-fires on record, which de-
vastated 8,000.000 acres of wood, destroyed property to the value of
$ 1,000,000, and caused the death of 160-200 persons.
Miramichi Bap was visited by Jacques Cartier and is frequently men-
tioned in the history of the French and English struggle for Canada. Beatir'
bair Island (see above) was occupied by a French town , destroyed by
the English in 1759. — Burnt Church, on the N. shore of the Bay, commem-
orates in its name another act of destruction and is to-day one of the
chief gathering-places of the Micmac Indians (p. 91). — A little to the
N. of Burnt Church lies Tabusintac, at the mouth of a river that aflfords
good sea-trout fishing. ^ 1
Digitized by VjOOQIC
to Quebec BATHTTRST. 24. BouU, 89
Fbom Chatham to Fbedericton, 120 M., Fredericton Section of the
Intercolonial Railway in 5 hrs. (fare $8.60). — This line intersects the main
line of the I.C.B. at (12 M.) Chatham Junction (p. 88) and ascends the
valley of the 8. W. Miramiehi (p. 88), crossing fjrom the right to the
left bank of the river at (32 M.) Blackville. At (56 M.) Doaktown it re-
crosses the river. 68 M. Ludlow. Beyond (72 M.) Boiestown the railway
turns to the left (8.) and leaves the Miramiehi. At (94 M.) Crost Creek it
crosses the watershed to the valley of the Naehwaak^ along which stream
it descends to (117 M.) Marysville, (119 M.) Gibson^ and (120 M.) FredericUm
(p. 36), crossing the 8t. John by a fine steel bridge (p. 36), 2100 ft. long. —
The actual £. terminus of this line is at LoggieviUe^ 5 M. &om Chatham.
Between Newcastle and Gloucester Junction the railway tra-
verses a thinly-peopled region, which offers many attractions to the
sportsman in the shape of moose, caribou, bear, partridge, and trout.
274M.BcavcrBfoofc, -2851^1. Bart%bogue{hiOii.)\ 1% "Hi. Red Fine,
303 M. Gloucester Junction is the starting-point of a line run-
ning to the E. to SMppegan (see below).
Fbom Glouobstbr Junction to Shippbqan, 70 M., Caraquet A OvJf Bhore
Railway, in 4 hrs. (fare $ 2.10). — The linepasses (5 M.) Bathurst (see below)
and follows the coast of Bav Ghaleur (p. 90). The intermediate stations in-
clude (25 M.) New Bandon^ (31 U.) Grand Anse^ and (50 M.) Caraquet iHotel,
$2), a quaint Acadian settlement and important fishing-station. — From
(62 M.) PokemoucJie Junction a branch-line runs to the S. to (U M.) Tracadie^
with a lazaretto for lepers maintained by the Canadian Government, and
(18 M.) Traeadie Mills. — 70 M. Shippegan (Botel) has a fine harbour and
important fisheries of herring, cod, and mackerel. It is one of the numerous
places that have been mentioned as the American terminus of a new and
short Atlantic service.
Off the coast here lies Shippegan Island (comp. p. 90), which affords
good wild-duck shooting in autumn. Still finer shooting (geese, ducks,
plovers, etc.) is afforded by the island of Mscou (p. 90) , to the N. of it,
which is reached by boat from Caraquet.
From Gloucester Junction the railway continues through the
big game and salmon-fishing region of the North Shore to —
308 M.Bathurst (40ft i Sweeney Ho,, iiy 2-*^ yRobert$on%$ 1^2)
White House, $1V2; U.S.Agent)^ a busy flshing-to^n and lumber-
exporting centre with about 2500inhab., on a small peninsula pro-
jecting into Bathur$t Harbour, which opens out of Nipisiguit Bay, it-
self a recess of the Bay Ghaleur. It is also a growing summer-resort,
with numerous cottages. The railway-station is about Y2 ^' ^^om the
town. Four rivers flow Into Bathurst Harbour, one of which, the
N^isiguit, affords the finest salmon-fishing in New Brunswick and
Is famous among salmon-streams the world over (the fishing-privileges
are leased, but are sub-let by the day, week, or month at reasonable
rates). About 7 M. above Bathurst are the Pabineau Falls or Rapids,
while 13 M. higher op the river forms the Grand Falls, consisting
of four leaps with a total height of 140 ft. Another favourite point
Is the Tite-h'Gauche, or Fairy River, with its small but picturesque
falls (7 M.).
Beyond Bathurst we cross the Tite-h-Gauche, and, farther on,
the Nigadou. 320 M. Petite Roche. 337 M. Jacquet River (Bay View,
$ 1) and (352 M.) Charlo (Bay Shore, $ 11/4) are angling-resorts.
The railway now skirts the S. shore of the Bale des Ghaleurs (vLews
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
90 RouU2d, GASP£ PENINSULA. From Halifax
to the right). 368 M. Eel River. Mt. Tracadiegash (p. 92) rises on
the farther shore of the bay.
362 M. Dalhdusie Junction is the diverging point of a short line
to (7M.)I>aUiouBie(Afttfp?ii/£ro., $lV2-2)» a port of entry situated
at the point where the estnary of the Restigouche merges in the Baie
des Ghaleurs, and one of the most popular and attractive marine
resorts in the Maritime Provinces. It also carries on a considerable
trade in lumber, preserved salmon, and lobsters. Pop. (1901) 2183.
The large and sheltered harbour offers safe facilities for boating,
while smooth beaches and water of mild temperature invite the bather.
Pleasant walks and drives may be taken amid the adjacent hills,
and the fisherman will find no lack of opportunity to test his skill.
MuDaXhousU (715 ft.), 2 M. from the town, is a good point of view.
The Bestigoaehe Biver, at the mouth of which Dalhousie lies, claims
to be the best salmon-fishing river in the world, and advances some
strong evidence in favonr of this assertion. The largest salmon known
to have been caught in it weighed 54 lbs., and the average weight is
about 22 lbs. All the best reaches of the Restigouche itself and its numer-
ous tributaries are leased to individuals and clubs (many American),
and the total annual rental for fishing-purposes amounts to about $ i2,0(X)
(2400<.). When the expenses of living, guides, canoes, keepers, and so
on are added to this, it has been estimated that each salmon caught costs
$ 25-36 (5-7/.). Among the chief tributary streams are the Malapedia (see
p. 91), the UpscUquiteh (abounding in trout and salmon), the Patapeiia^
and the Quatawamkedgewick (usually known as the *Tom Kedgewick*). The
headwaters of the Restigouche, which is 130 M. in length, are within 16 M.
of the St. John River (between Edmundston and Grand Falls), and the latter
can, indeed, be reached by canoe with a portage of oiUy 3 M. (comp.
p. 41). The estuary of the river, extending from Dalhousie to Matapedia
(p. 91), is very picturesque and measures 4 M. across its widest part.
About 21/2 M. above Campbellton. on the (Quebec side of the river, is Point
Bourdoy about 3 M. above whicti lay the French town of PeHt Roehelle^
destroyed by the British fleet under Commodore Byron in 1760.
The Baie d^ Chalears, or Bay Chaleur, was so named by Jacaues
Gartier, who discovered it in the hottest part of the year 1636. Its Inaian
name is Eketuam Nemcutchi Csea offish^), a name which it amply justifies
by the wealth of its fisheries (cod, herring, mackerel, tunny, etc.). The
bay, which is 85 M. long and 16-25 M. wide , is said to be entirely free
from shoal or reef dangerous to navigation. The entrance is partly pro-
tected by the two large, low, wooded islands of Shippegan and Mitcou (see
p. 89). The bay was the scene of the crime which forms the subject of
Whittier's poem 'Skipper Ireson's Ride\
On the IT. the Baie des Chaleurs is bounded by the Peninsula of
Oaspe, an elevated plateau (ca. 1500 ft.) forming the K.E. terminus of the
Appalachian system of mountains. Above the general level stand out the
Shickthoek MU.. running through the centre of the peninsula and attaining
a height of 3500-3800 ft. The peninsula is thinly populated (ca. 20,000),
the settlements being confined to the coast. Its industries are lumbering
and fishing. Travellers who wish to see something of the peninsula may
Eroceed by steamer (Quebec 8.S. Co.) from Quebec to Gasp^ (see p. 91} ^
ut those who object to this long voyage can visit the most interesting
points from Campbellton (p. 91) via the steamer ^Lady Eileen*, sailing
twice weeklv through the Baie des Chaleurs to Oaspi (176 M., in lo^/t hrs. ;
return-fare $ 10, berth and meals included).
The points called at include CaW«fon (p. 92) ^ Maria {p, 92); N»0 Bich-
mond (44 M ; p. 92); Caplin: Bonaventure ; New Carlisle (78 M.; p. 92);
Paspibiac (p. %'i)\Pori Daniel (102 M.), with a fine harbour; Newport; Pabot ;
Or and River; and Barachoi* (lo2 M.). The steamer then rounds Cape Despair
to Ouehec. OAMPBELLTON. 24. BouU. 91
or Ccqf d*E»poir^ calls at Cape Cove^ and a few miles farther on passes
between the lofty dlfifs (400-500 ft.) of Bonaventure Island, on the right,
and the Perci Rock (L« Rocher Perei)^ on the left. The latter, a huge mass
of red sandstone, 290 ft. high and 1500 ft. long, is one of the lions of the
Gasp^ coast and derives its name from the arch or tunnel (ca. 50 ft. high)
by which it is pierced. A second arch fell in some years ago. The top of
the rock is occupied by swarms of sea-gulls and cormorants. The rock
figures in a story by Sir Gilbert Parker, entitled ^The Gunner of Perc6
Rock*. The steamer calls at the cod-fishing village of Perctf, behind
which rises the conspicuous Mt. St. Anne (1230 ft.). It then crosses Mai
Bay to Point St. Peter. This forms the 8. extremity of Oatp4 Bap. which
we now ascend, with the dangerous beach of Orand Oreve to the rignt, and
DougUutowh at the mouth of the St. John^ on tb e 1 eft. Cape Oasp4, 690 ft. high ,
is the ^. horn of the bay and the E. extremity of the peninsula. To the
left, above Douglastown, opens the secure harbour of Oasp4 Baein. on which
lies the destination of the steamer, Oaspe or Oaspi Basin (176 M. ; Baker
So., $11/2-^9 U- ^' Oonsul, Mr. A. F. Dickson; Ft. Cons. Agent), a small
port with about 1800 inhab., including York and Oatpd Sands, and important
fisheries of salmon, mackerel, and cod. It is frequented in summer for the
excellent angling in the York and Bartmouth rivers and the good boating
in the Basin. Cartier landed here in 1534, taking possession of the country
in the name of the King of France. In 1627 a French fleet under Adm.
de Boquemont was destroyed in Gasp€ Basin by the Kirkes (p. 147). In
1760 Gasp^ was captured by Commodore Byron. — From Gasp^ travellers
may either return to Campbellton (see below) or go by steamer to Quebec
(comp. p. 145). For the latter route, see pp. 166, 4. The island of Anticosii
(p. 3) is about 40 M. from Gape Gasp^.
From Dalhousie Junction the railway runs to the W. to (371 M.)
Campbellton (Royalj Waverley, $lV2-2; U. S. Consul, Mr. J. S.
Benedict), a town at the head of deep-watei navigation, with about
4000 inhab., carrying on a trade in fish and lumber. It is visited
to some extent as a summer-resort, for which its beautiful situation
admirably fits it, but still lacks a flrst-class hotel. It is also a
favourite starting-point for fishing, hunting, and canoeing trips.
The time changes here from the Atlantic to the Eastern standard
(see p. xii). The Sugcur Loaf (950 ft.), rising behind the town,
commands a charming view.
At Cross Point or Mission Pointy opposite Campbellton, on the N. bank
of the Bestigouche, is one of the chief villages of the Micmac or Souriguois
JndUmti with about 600 inhab., few of whom are of pure blood. The Hie-
macs, a nomad tribe of Algonquin stock, are scattered throughout the
Haritime Provinces, and in the peninsula of Gasp^, to the number of
about 7(X)0. They are excellent sportsmen and fishermen and afford ad-
mirable service as guides and canoe-men. 8ee 'Legends of the Micmacs",
by the Rev. Silas T. Rand.
Just beyond Gampbelltou the train threads the only tunnel on
the line (though there are a great many snow-sheds), and runs up
the narrowing estuary (♦Views to the right). We enter the province
of Quebec (p. 148) just before crossing the Restigouche by a bridge
300 yds. long.
384 M. Matapedia or Metapedia (35 ft. ; Ferguson s, $ lV2)j
beautifully situated at the 'meeting of the waters' of the Matapedia
and the Restigouche (p. 90), with the headquarters of the Restigouche
Salmon Club, is the junction of a railway to New Carlisle (see below).
Fbom Matapedia to 1Tb w Gabliblb and PASPfisiAC, 98 M. , Atlantic
Jt Lake .Superior Railway in S'/a hrs. This line skirts the N. shore of the
92 Route 24. OAUSAPSCAL. From Halifax
Bale des Chaleurs (p. 90) and, as its ambitious name implies, is supposed
to form a connecting link in the direct commonication between the Atlantic
and Lake Superior. It is to be extended to Gasp^ Basin. — Most of the
stations are unimportant. 22 M. Point La Oarde, — 86 M. NouvelU^ in the
valley of the trout-river of that name; 44 M. CarUton (Callen, Landry,
$ lV2)i a summer and bathing resort, with good boating, fishing, and
shooting, near the base of Mt, Tracadiegash. 63 M. Maria and the following
stations are on Catoapedia Bav^ which receives the waters of the Oreat
Cascctpedia JUver, a famous ssdmon - stream. 68 M. New Richmond (Cas-
capedia Ho., $ 1), with good bathing, boating, and fishing, has been a
favourite summer-residence of several Governors-General. 79 M. Caplin. —
98 M. New Carlisle (OaldweU, Menard, $ IVs)- A^acent is Paspebiac iClement,
Doucet, $lV2i U, a. Com. Agent), a village of (1901) 1759 inhab., with a
good harbour. It is one of the main seats of the great fishing-house of
Bobin A Co., whose headquarters are in Jersey.
"We now leave the English-speaking country and enter a French-
Canadian district. The characteristics of the Inhabitants of this
region are well described in the following quotation from a pamphlet
by W, Kilby Reynolds.
''A quiet people are these habitants of the Lower St. Lawrence,
simple in their tastes , primitive in their ways, and having an abiding
devotion to their mother tongue and mother church. The opening-up of
the country has changed them a little, in the larger villages, but as a
whole they are much as they have been for the last two hundred years.
Their ways are nearly as the ways of their fathers. The railway and
telegraph of the nineteenth century run through a country in which hun-
dreds of people are to all intents and purposes in the seventeenth century.
Not to their disrespect be this said, but as showing the tenacity with
which they adhere to their language, manners, and customs. They are
as conservative as any people on earth. Where innovations are thrust
upon them by the march of progress they adapt themselves to the changes;
but where they are left to themselves ttiey are happy in the enjoyment
of the life their fathers led, and are vexed by no restless ambition to be
other than they have been. Their wants are few and easily supplied;
they live peaceful and moral lives; and they are filled with an abiding
love for their language and a profound veneration for their religion. By
nature light-hearted and vivacious, they are optimists without knowing
it. Inured to the climate, they find enjoyment in its most rigorous sea-
sons. French in all their thoughts, words, and deeds, they are yet loyal
to the British crown and contented under British rule. The ancient laws
are secured to them by solemn compact; and their language and religion
are landmarks which will never be moved. In places where the English
have established themselves, some of the habitants understand the language
of the intruders, but none of them adopt it as their own. The mingling
of races has a contrary e£fect, and the English tongue must yield to the
French. There are many Englishmen in this country whose children do
not understand a word of their father's native tongue; but there are no
Frenchmen whose children are ignorant of the language of France.
Where the advent of the tourist has not robbed the native of his
simplicity of character , he is likely to make a favourable impression on
the stranger. He is the type of a peculiar people, many of whom are in
very humble circumstances. Among the elders books are often sealed
mysteries ; it is enough for them to know what their church teaches, and
for them to obey it. Their condition of life is not such as conduces to
refinement, but they have much of that true politeness which is dictated
by sincerity, and they seek to fulfil the stranger''s wishes as a matter of
plain duty".
394 M. Mill Stream; 406 M. Assametquaghan; 412 M. Pleasant
Beach, — 419 M. Causapscal (Fortin, $ 1 72)» ** *^e mouth of that
river, Is the chief angling-resort in the valley. Good>tH>ut-flshing is
Digitized by VjOO •
to Quebec. ' RIMOUSKI. 24. RouU. 93
obtained in various small lakes. The shooting-lodge in which Lord
Mount Stephen used to entertain the Princess Louise has been sold
to the Restigouche Salmon Olub. — 426 M. Salmon Lake; 432 M.
Amqui at the junction of the riyer of that name with the Matapedia.
— From this point we ascend the beautiful ♦ VaUey of the Mata^
pedia or Metapediacy hugging the river closely for about 60 M. and
crossing it 3 or 4 times. The valley is enclosed by wood-clad hills
600-1000 ft. high, which approach each other so closely at places
as barely to leave room for the river, the railway, and the well-built
highroad. The river forms innumerable rapids and is one of the
most famous salmon-streams in Canada. As usual , the salmon-
fishing is all in private hands and strictly preserved ; but good trout-
fishing and fair though simple accommodation may be obtained at
almost any of the stations along the line. 440 M. Cedar Hall^ at the
moutb of the Matane River, 447 M. SayabeCj near the N. end of
Lake Matapedia (16 M. long), which we see to the right. We now
ascend to the highest point of the line, near Lake Malfait (750 ft.),
and descend rapidly on the other side to (467 M.) Little MetU
Station (bQO ft,).
Little Metis (Seaside, Cascade^ TwHff Eall^ $ 1V2-2) lies on the St. Law-
rence, 6 M. tp the N. of the station, and has become a favourite summer-
resort, affected, according to ^Picturesque Canada", by 'the scientist, the blue-
stocking, and the newly-married\ It has a good sandy beach, on which
the salt waves of the St. Lawrence, here nearly 40 M. wide, roll in with
something of an oceanic effect. Among the cottages is the tasteful fishing-
lodge of Lord Mount Stephen. The Grand and Little Uitii Rivers contain
salmon and trout (the latter free to all-comers), and good trout-fishing is
to be had in the Miti* Lakes. Partridge, wild-fowl, and caribou are found
in the woods and on the shore. Pleasant drives may be taken to (7 M.)
the falls of the two rivers above named and to other points.
471 M. St, Octave is the station for Grand Mitii, with its mixture
of Scottish Presbyterians and French Catholics. The line now ap-
proaches the St. Lawrence. We cross the Mitis River and bend to
the left(S.). — 476 M. Ste. Flavie (250 ft.; Mt. Joli, $11/4). —
490 M. St, Anaclet is the station for Father Point (p. 4), where
outward-bound vessels discharge their pilots.
494 M. BimoiLBld or St. Oermain de BimouBki (80 ft. ; Lenghan
Hotel, $ 1-1 V2; 8t, Germain, $ I72; Rimowiki, $ IV4; U. S. Consul,
Mr, E, N, Gunsaulus), a small town with (1901) 1804 inhab. and a
trade in lumber, is best known as the port of call of the ocean-
steamers, where passengers and mails from (or for) the Maritime
Provinces embark or disembark (comp. p. 4). It is the seat of a
Roman Catholic bishop and possesses a substantial stone cathedral,
convents, a seminary, etc. The long Pier juts out into the water for
nearly a mile and is a favourite promenade of the summer- visitors,
most of whom are French. The Rimou$ki River is an important salmon-
stream, but is under lease. Good trout-fishing and shooting are,
however, easily obtained. The harbour is protected by St, Barnab4
Island, to which attaches a romantic legend.
yGOOgI
e
94 Route 2d, RIVlfeRE DU LOUP. From Halifax
We cross the deep and narrow gorge of a small stream flowing
into Bic Harbour just "before reacMng (606 M.) Bic or 8te. Cecile
du Bic (Bic House, $1V2» Hattie Bay Ho., $1; boarding-house
of Mme. Pineau), charmingly situated on a bay of the St. Lawrence,
with a background of hills (1300 ft) and a foreground of islands.
It is visited in summer by a few lovers of quiet, picturesqueuess,
and fishing.
Ulilet au Massacre, near Bic, derives its name from the story that
200 Micmac Indians were here slaughtered by the Iroquois , who built a
fire in the mouth of the cave in which their victims had taken refage.
Just beyond Bic the railway passes one of the most romantic
pieces of scenery in its whole extent, running on a shelf cut out of
the steep hills surrounding the village, with the cliffs rising 250 ft.
above the train on the left, while below, to the right, lie the low-
lands adjoining the St. Lawrence, as well as the river itself, here
25 M. wide. — 514 M. St. Fabien (440 ft.). — About 3 M. to the
S.E. of (524 M.) St. Simon is the pretty lake of that name, well
stocked with fish. — 533 M. Trots Pistoles (100 ft. ; Lavigne^s Hotel,
$ 2 ; Dery's Hotel, $ IV4), a village with (1901) 2595 inhabitants.
It is frequented to some extent by summer-visitors , and good Ash-
ing may be enjoyed in the Trois Pistoles and other waters of the
district. Just beyond it we cross a high bridge over the pretty
Rivihre Trois Pistoles, At (543 M.) Isle Verte (Desjardins, $ 1 V2)
we are close to the St. Lawrence. — 562 M. St, Arshne is a con-
venient point from which to reach (12 M.) Lake St, Hubert for
fishing. — 554 M. Cacouna Station^ 21/2 M. from the fashionable
watering-place of Cacourha (p. 168 ; cab 50-75 c, bargaining advis-
able). — We now reach the station of —
560 M. Biviere du Loup or Fraserville (320 ft. ; Commereial,
Vict(yria, OpUr, Chdteau Grandville, $ 2-2V2; BeUevue, $ IV2;
Venise, Maison Blanche, $ IV4, these two near the pier at Pointe It
Pic, see p. 168), a town of (1901) 4569 inhab., picturesquely situated
on high ground on the Rivihre du Loup, a little above its confluence
with the St. Lawrence (steamboat-wharf, see p. 168). It is a railway-
centre of some importance (see p. 95) and is also frequented as a
summer-resort on account of its facilities for bathing, boating,
shooting, and fishing.
The name of Biviere du Loup is said to be derived from the seals (loups-
marins) that used to frequent its shoals, while Fraserville is in honour of
the family of Fraser (long since Gallicised; comp. p. 168), in whom the
seigneurial rights have for many years been vested. — The most conspicu-
ous building in the town is the Pwish Ohurch, a large edifice with a lofty
spire. — A short way above the railway-bridge the Bivi&re du Loup de-
scends about 200 ft. in a series of picturesque *FaIls. — Good trout-fi!shing
may be had in many lakes and streams within easy reach of Biviere du
Loup. The salmon-fisheries are generally leased to private individuals,
hut a stranger can often obtain permission to try his hand. The adjacent
woods abound in partridges, and water-fowl frequent the St. Lawrence and
other rivers in great number. Caribou may be shot at no great distance. In-
formation and guides may be obtained at the hotels. ^ .
Digitized byCjOOQlC
to Quebec, KAMOURASKA. 2i. Route. 95
Faou BiviftBB DD Loup to Connoss, 113 M., TemUeouata Railway
twice daily in byz-V/t hrs. (fare $ 8.8Q). Connection for Woodstock,
Fredericton, and St. John, see below (carriages changed at Edmundston
and McAdam Janction, where time is allowed for luncheon and sapper).
— This picturesque line runs to the 8.E., through a district rich in
interest for the angler and sportsman. Beyond (43 M.) Cdbano we reach
the W. bank of Lake Temiscouata, a narrow sheet of water, about 22 M.
long, abounding in large -sised trout and Huladi\ a heavy fish of the
salmon family. Good shooting is obtained on its banks. The Tuladi Rivoty
entering the lake from the N.E. , is famed for its trout. —MM. Clou-
tiert Platform (Gloutiers Hotel) and (52 M.) Notre Dame du Lae (Stone Ho.;
Bail. Bestaurant) are favourite sporting-quarters. — Beyond the lake we
follow the Madawaska River Qeft) and soon enter New Brunewich (p. 36).
The Madawaska Valley is mainly peopled by descendants of the Aca-
dians, who settled here after their expulsion from Nova Scotia (p. 78). —
At (81 M.) Edmundston (Hebert Ho., $ IVs; U.S. Agent), situated at the
confluence of the Madawaska and the St. John, we connect with the
C.P.B. for Woodstock, Fredericton, and St. John (see pp. 41, 40). — Our line
now turns to the right (W.) and skirts the N. bank of the St John, here
forming the boundary between New Brunswick and Maine. 89M. iSX. Hilairey
opposite Fremhville (Me.); 101 M. CkUre^ opposite Fort Kent (Me.; ferry).
— 113 M. Connors (Hotel Oonnors, $ lVs-2) a£fords good headquarters for
sport in the St. Francois River District.
From Biviire du Loup to Quebec and the Saguenay by steamer, see B. 33.
666 M. Old Lake Boad is the station for Notre Dame du Portage,
so called from the short * portage* here (ca. 25 M."J between the
St. Lawrence and the headwaters of the St. John (p. o3). — 671 M.
8t. Alexandre ; 576 M. 8t. Andri; 579 M. Ste. Helene; 582 M. Dorsaini.
685 M. 8t. Paschal is the station for the quiet watering-place of
Xamoaraska [8t. Louis, Windsor, Ward's, Lahrie's, $^/4-l), which
lies 6 M. to the N.W., on the St. Lawrence, and affords good salt-
water bathing. It possesses a large church and convent. Off-shore lie
the Kamouraska Islands (p. 168). — 691 M. St. Philippe de Neri, —
696 M. Rivilre Oudle is the home of the Ahhi Casgrain, the historian
and antiquarian, and the scene of his romance *La Jongleuse*, based
on the history of Mme. Houel) who was captured here by the Iroquois
in the 17th century.
A short branch-line connects Quelle with (7 M.) Riviire Quelle Wharf
(Laurentide Hotel, from $ li/sf unpretending but well spoken oQ, whence a
steamer crosses the St. Lawrence Biver to Murray Bay (p. 168), thus affording
the shortest route (open all the year round) from Montreal to Murray Bay
(cump. B. 29b).
600 M. St. Anne de la Pooati^re [Uiehaud Blanehet, $ 1) is a
flourishing little town on the St. Lawrence, with a college (850-
400 students } museum ; agricultural school and model farm) and
a large Convent of the Grey Nuns. — 616 M. 8i. Jean Port Joli, the
chief scene of De Qasp6's story, *Les Anciens Canadiens' ; 620 M.
Trois Saumons; 624 M. L' Islet; 628 M. UAnse h Giles; 631 M.
Cap 8t. Ignace. — We obtain a view of Cap Tourmente (p. 167), on
the other side of the St. Lawrence, and cross the Rivilre du 8ud,
which forms a small waterfall here, just before reaching (638 M.)
8t, Thom<u or Montmagny (Commercial, Cote, $ IV2; Montmagny,
$ 1), a town of (1901) 1919 inhab., with its college, convent, and
large chuzch. — The Laurentide Mts. (p. 139) are now^^en^j)^the
Digitized by V ^
96 Route 24. ST. CHARLES.
right, beyond the St. Lawrence ; the river Itself is not visible, the
plain stretching apparently to the foot of the mountains. 642 M.
8t. Pierre; 646 M. St. FranQoU-, 661 M. St. Valier (p. 167); 654 M.
St. Michel (p. 166> Beyond (661 M.) St. Charles, the junction of a
direct line to Ghaudi^re (p. 141), we traverse a fertile champaign
country and again come into sight of the river. Beyond (670 M.)
Harlaka Junction several snow-sheds are threaded. 672 M. St. Jo$eph.
The line skirts the St. Lawrence pretty closely and we enjoy good
views (right) of the river, the S. side of the Isle of Orleans (p. 157),
and the Montmorency Falls (p. 159).
674 M. Livii and ferry thence to Quebec, see pp. 145, 157.
y Google
IV. PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND AND NEWFOUNDLAND.
Route Pa^e
26. Prince Edward Island 97
From Charlottetown to Tignish 100
From Charlottetown to Murray Harbour 101
From Charlottetown to SourU 101
From Hount Stewart to Georgetown 101
Hagdalen Islands 102
26. Newfoundland 102
a. St. John's 109
Walks and Drives in the Neighbourhood of St. John's. Ill
b. From St. John's to Renews. Cape Race . . . .113
c. From St. John's to Bonne Bay by Sea 114
d. From St. John's to Griguet . 115
e. From St. John's to Battle Harbour and the Coast
of Labrador 117
Grand Falls of Labrador 118
f. From St. John's to Battle Harbour via Bay of
Islands 118
g. From St. John's to Port-aux-Basques 119
From Brigus Junction to Harbour Grace and Gar-
bonear 120
From Garbonear to Glarenville. Heart's Gontent.
Placentia 120
From Port Blandford to Bonavista Bay 121
27. St. Pierre and Miquelon 124
25. Prince Edward Island.
Approaches. The fine steamer ^Northumberland' of the Ckarlottetoum
Steam Navigation Co. leaves Ptctou (p. 60) every week-day in summer for
(50 M.) ChafloUetoum^ on the arrival of the morning-train from Halifax
(4-6 hrs. ; fare $ 2; meals 50 c; comp. B. 19). — The new and fast steamer
^Empress* of the same company leaves Point du Chine every week-day, on the
arrival of the morning-train from St. John and Boston and (in summer)
of the 'Ocean Limited' from Montreal, for (36 M.) Summerside (2-3 hrs. ;
fare $ IV25 comp. p. 87). — In winter the specially-built steamers 'Minto'
and 'Stanley' ply from Pictou to Gharlottetown and Georgetown, when
the ice permits. When they cannot run, the mails are transferred to the
ice-boat service mentioned at p. 86. A tunnel is in contemplation. —
Charlottetown may also be reached by steamers of the Quebec 8. 8. Co.
from Montreal and Quebec or by steamers of the Canada Atlantic de Plant
S, 8. Co. from Halifax vi& the Strait of Ganso (comp. p. 63). — Steamers
also sail from Pictou to Georgetown and Bouris (comp. p. 60).
On leaving Pictou Harbour (p. 60), the Gharlottetown steamer steers
to the left (N.W.), passing through the Caribou Channel., with Pictou Island
(4 M. long; lighthouse) at some distance to the right. Caribou Islandy close
to the mainland, on the left, also has a lighthouse. As we approach the
other side of Northumberland Strait, dividing the mainland from Prince
Edward Island, we see Prim Pointy to the right, a flat promontory, with a
lighthouse. This marks the entrance to Hillsborough BcCy^ across which we
steer, a little to the W. of N., towards Charlottetown Harbour. The bright
red beaches of the ialand. due to the red sandstone which is the predomi-
nant factor of its geological structure, contrast strikingly with its green
Babdsksb's Canada. 3rd Edit. 7
98 25. Route. CHARLOTTETOWN. Prince Edward
foliage as we near the shore. We enter the harbour by a narrow channel
between Blockhouse Point on the left and Sea Trout Point on the right.
The harbour receives the waters of three rivers : — the Elliott on the W.
(1.), the York on the N.W., and the ffilltborouffh on the N.E. (r.). Charlotte-
toton^ see below. The hotels are within a few minutes* walk of the pier.
From Point du Chine (p. 87), on Shediae Bay^ the course of the steamer
across Northtmiberland Strait^ here 12-20 M. wide, is about N.B. The first
f)art of Prince Edward Island to come in sight is Cape Egmowt^ with its
ow cliffs of red sandstone. Summertide (p. 100) lies in the middle of
Bedeque Bap. To the right lie Indian Point and Indian Island.
Obnesal Sketch. Prinee Edward Island, the smallest province of the
Dominion of Canada, 150 M. in extreme length, 85 M. in extreme breadth,
and 2133 sq. M. in area, lies in the S. part of the Gulf of St. Lawrence and
is separated from the mainland by the Strait qf Northumberland, 9-25 M.
wide. The surface is level or slightly undulating and nowhere exceeds
500 ft. in height. The red soil, underlain by red sandstone rock, is fertile,
and the island, one half of which is under cultivation, has a fair claim
to the title 'Garden of the Gulf*. The natural richness of the soil is rein-
forced by *mu8sel-mud' formed by vast deposits of decomposed shell-fish
on the shore. Its scenery is hardly of a nature to repay a veteran trav-
eller, but those who wish a quiet , cool , and inexpensive summer-resort
with good boating, bathing, fishing, and (in autumn) shooting, will find
many spots on the island to suit them. The waters surrounding its shores
are warmer than those of the Bay of Fundy or the Maine Coast, being
shallower and sheltered from the influence of arctic currents, and there-
fore much more suitable for bathing. Prince Edward Island is twice as
densely populated as any other province, containing (1901) 103,260 inhab.
or 48 to the square mile. About two-fifths of these are of Scottish descent,
the rest being English, Irish, and Acadian French. There are also a few
hundred Micmac Indians. About 45 per cent of the inhabitants are Roman
Catholics. The chief occupations are agriculture and fishing; manufactures
are unimportant and local in character. — Comp. 'Handbook of Prince
Edward Island' by TT. H. Croukill (3rd ed., 1906).
HiSTOBT. Prince Edward Island is said, on very slight grounds, to
have been discovered by Cabot in 1497. It is also said to have been visit-
ed by Champlidn on St. John^s Day, 1606, and to have been called by him
Isle St. Jean. The Indian name was AbeffweU or Epayguit, meaning 'anchored
on the wave". The island was included in the French domain of Acadia,
but* received no permanent European settlers till the cession of Nova
Scotia to England (1713), when a ffew Acadians moved over here. In 1760,
when it was formsilly ceded to the English, it contained over 4000 inhabi-
tants. The island was at first annexed to Nova Scotia, and granted to 100
English and Scottish gentlemen, whose efforts at colonizing were not very
efficacious. In 1770 it was made a separate province, but its name was not
changed to its present form, assumed in compliment to the Duke of Kent,
till 1799. In 1803 the Earl of Selkirk sent over 800 Highland colonists, and
from then till 1860 the immigration was considerable. The province
joined the Dominion of Canada in 1873.
Charlottetown {Victoria, $2 1/2; Queen ^ well spoken of,
$ 1 V2-2 ; Revere Ho. , $ 1-1 1/2; Lenox , Alexandra^ two private board-
ing-houses; U. S. Consul, Mr. D. J. Vail, Haviland St.), the capital
of Prince Edward Island, is pleasantly situated on the S. side of
the island, on an excellent harbour formed by the confluence of the
Hillsborough or East (bridge, see p. 101), the York or Notth^ and the
Ellioit or West Rivers. In 1901 the town contained 12,080 in-
habitants. It is regularly laid out, and the width of the main streets
(100 ft.) gives it a spacious and inviting air. Most of the buildings
are of wood, but there are also many substantial structures of brick
and stone. Charlottetown is the chief port of the island and carries
Idand. CHARLOTTETOWN. 25. Route. 99
on a large export-trade in farm-produce and fish. It also has some
woollen-mills. — There is a Touritt Information Bureau^ in Apothe-
caries' Hall, comer of Queen St. and Grafton St. (open 7 a.m. to 11 p.m.).
Fort la JoUj as the French called Oharlottetown, appears about 1750
as the seat of tne execative of the island, with a fort and a small garrison j
but no houses seem to have been erected on the site of the present city
till 1768, under British rule. In 1775 the small capital was taken and
plundered by two American cruisers, but Washington rebuked the officious
privateers and sent back the captives and their property. In 1864 Char-
lottetown was the seat of the conference at which the project of Canadian
confederation first took definite shape.
The focus of Oharlottetown life and activity is 'Qubbn SauAiRs,
in which stand the principal public buildings, surrounded by grounds
adorned with tasteful flower-beds. In the centre is the Provinoial
Building, a substantial stone structure, containing the Legislative
Assembly (2nd floor), with portraits of P.E.I, statesmen, and the
Legislative and Dodd Public Libraries. To the right (E.) rises the
Court House J from the flat roof of which, as from the cupola of the
Provincial Building, an excellent 'View is obtained of Oharlottetown
and its surroundings. In front of these buildings stands a monu-
ment to soldiers who served in the South African War (1899-1900).
To the W. of the Provincial Building are the Post Office and the
substantial new Market House (market-days, Tues. & Frid.). Round
the square, especially on the S., W., and N. sides, are the best
shops of Oharlottetown. Band-concerts are frequently given in Queen
Square on summer-evenings.
In Great Oeorge St.j a little to the S. of Queen Sq. , rises the
large and imposing Cathedral of St. Dunstan (R.O.).
To the E. of Queen Square is Hillsbobough Squabb, with the
\bx%q Convent of Notre Dame. Adjacent, in Weymouth St., is the
united Prince of Wales College ^ Normal School,
From the S.W. corner of Queen Square we may proceed along
Queen St. to the City Building, and then follow Kent St. to the left,
passing Bochford Square, West Kent School, and the Armoury (all on
the right), to the Park Roadway, with the Oovemment House (r.j. The
Park Roadway leads past Fort Edward, round the water-front, and
through Victoria Park, with Its cricket and lawn- tennis grounds.
We return by the same route in order to enjoy the view of the harbour
and of the city, above which rise the two prominent spires of
St. Dunstan. If we are driving, it is best to return by way of
Brighton Road to Queen Square.
On the heights on the N. outskirts of the city is the College of
St. Dunstan, a large school for boys.
The large Lunatic Asylum occupies a point projecting into the
£a«t River, and near it is the Trotting Park. The Belvidere Oolf
Liriks lie 3 M. to the E. of the town.
The roads in the vicinity of Oharlottetown are good and afi'ord opportuni-
ty for pleasant if not especially picturesque drives (livery-rates very moder-
ate). Among the favourite drives are those to (10 M.) Poienal (Florida, $ IVt).
7*
100 Route 25. . SUMMERSIDE. Prince Edward
on Hillsborough Bay, Hampton (see below), Keppoch^ (12 M,) Brackley Beach
(p. 101), and (18 M.) Traeadie Bay (p. 101; fare $ 4). — The water-trips are
more inviting. A small ferry-steamer (bridge, see p. 101) crosses half-honrly
to Southport, on the opposite side of the Hillsborongh River (view from Tea
Hill). Another ferry runs hourly to Rocky Foint^ a favourite holiday-resort,
where there are an Indian encampment and the relics of Fort La Joie^ the
early French capital of the island. — A steamer running to (18 M.) Orwell
gives a good view of Hillsborough Bay. — Steamers also ascend the East
River (to Mt. Stewart; a very pleasant trip) and the West River and run to
Hampton (Pleasant View Hotel, $ 1). — A somewhat longer excursion, very
popular with the people of Gharlottetown, skirts the shore to the W. to
Crapaud. — Boating and Sailing can be exg oyed in the harbour, rivers, and bay.
Railway Excursionty see below.
The narrow-gauge Prince Edward Island Railway runs from
one end of the Island to the other, with a winding course of nearly
170 M. and various branches. Gharlottetown itself is 6 M. to the S. of
the main line, but through-trains run from it to each of the termini.
Fbom Chablottbtown to Tignish, 117 M., in 6-73/4 hrs. (fare
$ 3.60) ; to (49 M.) SuMMBRsiDB in 2V4-3 hrs. ($ 1.45). — Leaving
the station, at the E. end of the city, the train turns to the left (N.),
quits the Hillsborough River , passes 8t. Dunstan^s [see p. 99) and
(3 M.) Cemetery Station^ and joins the main line at (5 M.) Royalty
Junction. Here it turns to the left and runs towards the W, througli
a fertile agricultural district of no marked features. Numerous com-
fortable farm-houses are seen, seldom clustering into villages. At
(10 M.) MUton we cross the headwaters of the York River. 17 M. North
Wiltshire. Several snow-fences are passed here and at other parts
of the line. — 21 M. Hunter 12ii7€r (Macmillan, $1) is the station
for (7 M. ; stage) Ruatico (Orby Point Hotel, $ 1.30), on the N. shore
one of the best bathing, boating, and fishing resorts in the island,
with a good sandy beach. Farther on, the Hunter River flows to the
left of the railway. — From (32 M.) Emerald Junction a branch-line
runs to the left to (12 M.) Cape Traverse, where it connects with
the winter mail-service to Cape Tormentine (see p. 86). — From
(41 M.) Kensington (Clark, $11/4), a thriving village with 6-600 in-
hab., the quaint station-house of which is made of small round
stones of the field, coaches run to (7 M.) Malpeque, at the mouth
of Richmond Bay , with the North Shore Hotel ($ 1-2). The head
of OrenviUe Bay is seen about 4 M. to the N.E. The so-called Mai-
peque oysters have an excellent reputation. — Beyond Kensington
the* line runs to the S.W. and near (45 M.) New Annan reaches
the narrowest part of the island , where the inroads of Richmond
Bay on the N. and Bedeque Bay on the S. reduce its width to 3i/2 M.
49 M. Snmmerside (Clifton, $2; Queen, $1^2? Victoria; U.S.
Agent), a thriving little seaport of (1901) 2876 inhab., with an
export-trade in farm-produce and the well-known Malpeque oysters
(see above), is the terminus of the best steamboat-service between
Prince Edward Island and the mainland (comp. p. 97). The train
runs on to the wharf, alongside the steamej. ^.^^^ (^qqqI^
Island, TIGNISH. 25, Route. 101
The line beyond Summerside calls for little remark. 64 M.
Miacouche, with its two-spired church, to the right ; 61 M. Wellington f
71 M. Port Hill Station^ ahout 3 M. from the ship-building village
on Richmond Bay. At (80 M.) Portage the island is only 4 M. wide.
The N. end of the island, which we now reach, is largely inhabited
by Acadians (p. 98). — 104 M. Alberton (Seaforth, Albion Terrace,
$11/2; U.S. Agent), on the attractive Caseumpec Bay, seen to the
right as we approach, is a prosperous ship-btfilding and fishing
village (800 inhab.). The train backs out of this station, which is
one of the N. termini of the line, and runs towards the N.
117 M. Tignisli (jBeWcviWc, McKenna, $1V2)' *^® terminus of
the railway, is a small village (450 inhab.) but of importance for
its fisheries. The inhalJitants, who are French and Highland Roman
Catholics, support a large church and convent.
Tignish is about 8 M. from North Capty the northernmost extremity
of the island (lighthouse-, 47*" 3' N. lat.).
From OHAaLOTTBTOWN toMubbat Habboub, 48 M., railway in
33/4 hrs. (fare $1.45). This new line, opened in 1906, traverses a
rich agricultural district. — Leaving Charlottetown, the train crosses
the Hillsborough Elver by a fine steel bridge, 8/4 M. long. 2 M.
8outhport (p. 100); 9 M. Mt. Albion; 13 M. Lake Verde; 20 M. Vigg;
32 M. Melville; 40 M. Hopefield; 44 M. Murray River. — 48 M.
Murray Harbour, on the estuary of the Murray River, near Cape Bear,
Fbom Ghablottbtown to Soubis, 60 M., railway in 3-4 hrs.
(fare $ 1.80) ; to Geobgbtown (46 M.) in 2'Sy^liiB, (fare $ 1.40). —
From Charlottetown to (5 M.) Royalty Junction, see p. 100. Here we
turn to the right (N.E.j and ascend the fertile valley of the HiUs-
borough Rioer (not visible at first). — 9 M. York is the station for the
small seaside-resorts of BracJdey Beach (Shaw's, Sea View, $ I-IV2)
and Stanhope (Mutch's j Cliff, well spoken of, $ 1 V2-2), noted for its
interesting ♦Cliff. — 14 M. Bedford is the station for the *Acadia
Hotel (good cuisine; $2), situated 41/2 M, to the N., on Tracadie
Bay, the site of an early Acadian colony (carriages to meet the
trains during the season). The attractions of this resort include
golf-links, a good sandy beach, and mackerel-fishing in the bay. —
Beyond (17 M.) Tracadie we see the Hillsborough to the right. —
22 M. Mount Stewart (Clark, Manson, $ 1), a ship-building village
with 600 inhab., near the head of the Hillsborough River, is the
junction of the branch-line to Georgetown (see below).
FsoH HouNT Stewaet to Georgetown, 24 M., railway in V/i-i^/t hr.
— This line crosses the Hillsborough and runs towards the S.B. The chief
intermediate station is (18 M.) Cardigan, at the head of navigation on the
Cardigan River. — 24 M. Georgetown (Aiiken, Tapper, $lV2i U.S. Agent), a
small seaport with (1901) iW inhab., situated on a peninsula between
the rivers Cardigan and Brudenell, It carries on a brisk trade in agri-
cultural produce. Steamers ply hence to Lotoer Montague, Charlottetown
(p. 98), Pictou (p. 60), and the Magdalen Islands (p. 102).
The Souris train keeps to the N. of the Hillsborough River and
runs towards the E. Beyond (31 V2 M.) Morell^ on the Morell River
102 ROUU25. SOURIS.
(good fishing), we skirt 8t, Peter's Bay (left). 881/2 M. 8L Peter's
(Bayview Hotel), a village with 500 inhab., at the head of the bay,
carries on a considerable trade. The sea-trout in the bay afford
good sport.
60 M. Souris (Sea VieWj Impericd, $ 11/2; ^^-S» Agent), a village
with (1901) 1140 inhab., lies on Colville Harbour, It carries on a
trade with the French island of 8t. Pierre (p. 124), and steamers
ply hence to Pictou (p. 60), the Magdalen Islands (see below), and
various Cape Breton ports. It is about 14 M. from Eatt Pointj the
end of the island in this direction.
About 50 H . to the N. of East Point, in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, are
the Kagdalen Islands, reached in about 16 hrs. by a steamer sailing from
Pictou (p. 60) on Hon. & Thurs. and calling at Georgekwn (p. 101: Thurs.
only) and Sourit (see above). They are sometftnes visited for the sake
of me sea-trout fishing ; but the accommodation for tourists is of the most
primitive description. Of the thirteen islands, which have a total popu-
lation of about 5000 hardy Acadian fishermen, the largest is Co/Jln Island^
and the most important Amherst (Shea Ho.; Koel). During the cod and
mackerel fishing-seasons the islands are frequented by hundreds of Canadian
and American boats. The industries of lobster fishing and canning are
also important,and in winter seals are sometimes captured on the floating
ice. The Bird Isles are haunted by immense numoers of sea-birds of
various kinds. Deadman's Isle^ besung by Tom Moore, lies about 8 H. to
the W. of Amherst. See *In and Around the Magdalen Lslands*, a pamphlet
by A. M, Pope,
26. Newfoimdlandn
Approaches. SL John's (p. 109) is reached from Halifax (p. 60; 490 M.)
in about 2 days by the steamers of the Red Cross lAnSy sailing every 7 days
(saloon fare $ 18) , and of the Fwmess Line^ sailing fortnightly (fare $15).
Steamers of the Allan Steamship Co. (agents at St. John's, Shea A Co.)
call at St. John^s fortnightly on their way from Glasgow and Liverpool to
Halifax and Philadelphia, but do not call at Halifax on their eastward trip
(fare from St. John's to Halifax $20). The vessels of all three lines are
reported to be safe and comfortable. — From Montreal (p. 125; 1070 M.)
St. John's is reached in about 6 days by steamers of the DoheU Line (fare
$26), sailing fortnightly. —From ITm York (p. 10; 1100 M.) St. John's is
reached by steamers of the Red Cross Line in 5-6Vs days, including a
'stopover* of Vj-l day at Halifax (comp. above; fare $84). — From 2;<»«r-
pool (1930 M.) St. John's is reached in 7 days by steamers of the Allan Line
and the Fumess Line (see above), each sailing fortnightly (fare $ 45-60). —
From Glasgow St. John's is reached in 7 days by fortnightly steamers of
the Allan Line (fare $ 60). — Newfoundland is also reached from all parts
of the United States and Canada by the steamer 'Bruce*, sailing thrice
weekly between North Sydney and Port-aux-Basques, in close connection with
the Intercolonial Railway and the Eeid Newfoundland Co. (see pp. 68, 118).
The sea-trip on this route takes 6 hrs. only. The whole journey from North
Sydney to St. John's takes 36 hrs. (fares $ 12.60, $ 6.35).
General Sketch. The large island of Newfoundland ft occupies a pe-
culiarly commanding position off the shores of the Dominion of (3anada
i This account of Newfoundland was originally supplied by the late
Rev. Dr. Moses Harvey, author of 'Newfoundland, the Oldest British Colony",
but has since been materially revised and lengthened.
+t The natives usually accent the word on the last syllable (*New-
funland'), the English on the second, the Americans on the first. The first
pronunciation is preferable, the second allowable, the third inadmissible.
yGoogk
yGoogk
NEWFOUNDLAND. 26, Route. 108
Stretching right across the entrance of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, it affords
access to its waters both at the H^. and S. extremities. The S.W. shore,
at one point, approaches within 50 M. of Gape Breton, while its N. ex-
tremity is within 12 M . of the coast of Labrador, from which it is separ-
ated by the Straits of Belle Isle (p. 3). It might be compared to a
huge bastion, thrown oat into the K. Atlantic, which, if duly rortified and
armed, could be made the Gibraltar of the surrounding seas. Cape Bpear^
its easternmost projection, is but 1690 M. from the coast of Ireland, so
that it forms as it were a stepping-stone between the Old and New
Worlds. In regard to size, it ranks tenth among the islands of the globe.
Its greatest length, from Cape Ray on the S.W. to Cape Norman on the N.,
is 317 M. ) its greatest breadth, from Gape Spear to Cape Anguilley is almost
the same. It lies between 46" 36' b^^ and 61" 39* N. lat. and between
52" 3r and 59" 24' 50" W. long. Its area is 42,000 sq. M., or about one-
sixth larger than Ireland and almost equal to the State of New York. Its
circumference, measured from headland to headland, is about 1000 H.,
but so deeply indented is it by bays and arms of the sea, that its coast-
line is almost double that extent. In shape it is roughly triangular.
A glance at the map shows that it is almost cut in two by the larg.
bays of Flacentia and Trinity, The S. peninsula thus formed is callee
Avalon and is joined to the main body of the island by an isthmus whicd
at its narrowest point is but 3 M. in width. A long narrow peninsulah
called Petit Nord^ stretches northerly to the Straits of Belle Isle. The S.E,
peninsula, having an extensive frontage on the Atlantic and many fine har-
bours ana bays in proximity to the best inshore fishing-grounds and the
Great Banks, is by far the most thickly populated and commercially im-
portant part of the island (comp. p. 110).
The coasts of Newfoundland are guarded by ramparts of rock, rising
in bold cliffs and headlands to a height of 300-400 ft. At frequent inter-
vals, however, this repellant wall is cleft by deep Qords, often 30-50 M.
wide at their mouths and running 50-90 H. into the land , while smaller
branches diverge on either side. These splendid bays are not only of
immense economical importance, as bringing the fish, so to speak, up
to the very doors of the fishermen, but are also possessed of such grand-
eur of scenery as will rank them, when better known and more acces-
sible, as the equals of the best that Norway has to show.
On leaving the rugged coast-line we find the outer interior of the
island to be a hilly country with eminences of no great elevation. Around
the heads of nearly all the bays are large tracts of good land, covered
with fine timber and fit for agricultural and grazing purposes. The inner
interior is an elevated undulating plateau traversed here and there by
ranges of low hills , the surface being diversified by valleys , woods,
countless lakes and ponds, and numerous marshes, which are generally
shallow and could easily be drained. Fully a third of the surface of the
island is Covered witli these lakes and lakelets, which abound in trout and
land-loejked salmon. All the great hill-ranges have a N.E. and S.W. direc-
tion, and all the other physical features, such as bays, lakes, and rivers,
have ^ similar trend, the cause of this conformation being doubtless
glacial action. The principal mountain-ranges are the Long Range, ruoning
Sarallel with the W. coast ; the Cape Anguille Range or False CMch^ in the
.W. comer 5 the Blomidon or Blouf-me-doton Mts.^ adjoining the Bay of
Islands (W. coast): and the Sawyer Mts. and other heights in the peninsula
of AValon (see aoove). A set of remarkable isolated, sharply - peaked
summits, known as ^Tolls'*, are distributed over the interior, rising abruptly
at intervals out of the great central plateau, and forming admirable
landmarks for the Indian or the sportsman.
The three largest rivers are the Exploits, the Humber^ and the Oan^
der. There are numerous smaller streams fairly entitled to rank as
rivers. It is along the valleys traversed by the various rivers that the
greatest extent of fertile lands and the heavy forest-growth are found ; and
now that these valleys are made accessible by the new railway across
the island, it may be expected that they will become the seats of a large
agricultural population. At present, agriculture is carried on upon a com-
104 Route 26. NEWFOUNDLAND. Minerals.
paratively small scale, the attention of the people being mainly deyoted
to the fisheries. The area of land at present under calture does not exceed
130,000 acres. The reports of the Geological Soryey show that in the
great viJleys alone there are nearly 8,000,000 acretf fit for settlement and
capable of sustaining a large populations while the aggregate of areas
elsewhere of arable and grazing land is 2,000,000 acres. There are, how-
ever, vast areas which are hopelessly barren, while the interior proper is
yet out partially explored.
Qrand Lake (p. 122), the largest in the island, is 56 M. in length and
192 sq. M. in area. Red Indian Lake (near the centre of the island) is 37M.
long, with an average width of 2 M. Gander Lake (p. 121), through which
alriver of the same name flows, is 83 H. in length. The scenery around
these lakes is generally very fine.
Kinerals. Among the copper-producing countries of the world Kew-
foundland takes a high place. Iron -pyrites of the best quality is found
in many localities ; and from a mine in Pilley^i IsUmd, in Ifotre Dame Bay
(p. 116), this ore is now shipped in large quantities. Rich deposits of lead,
holding a large percentage of silver, are found in PlacenUa (p. 120) and
Port-au-Port (p. 115). The carboniferous rocks are largely developed in
8i. Qeorge"* Bay (p. 115), where there is a coal-area 25 M. wide by 10 M.
in breadth. Promising coal-seams were worked near Grand Lake, and
extensive deposits have been discovered in Codroy Valley (p. 123). Large
deposits of iron ore have been found at Conc^Hon Bay and Bay de Verde
(comp. pp. 119, 120). Petroleum and asbestos have also been recently dis-
covered. Gold ocQurs at Cape Broyle (p. 113) and in Ming't Bight (between
Notre Dame Bay and White Bay). Gypsum, mirbles, roofing-slate, and
building-stone are abundant in several localities. — The total value of
minerals exported in 1903-4 was $ 1,288,565.
Fisheries. The cod - fishery of Newfoundland is the most extensive
of the kind in the world, and its average annual value (about $6,000,0(X))
amounts to three-fourths of the entire fishery-products. The export of
dried cod per annum averages 1,360,000 quintals or cwts. The seal-fishery
is next in value. The number of seals taken in different years varies
greatly. In 1901-2, 528,120 skins were exported, valued at $420,869, being
more than thrice as great as the value exported in 1897-98, and one-and-
a-half times the value of 19034. The catch of 1906 was also large. The
value of canned lobsters exported annually is about $ 410,000. The centres
of the herring-fishery are Labrado)' (p. 117), St. GeorgeU Bay (p. 115), Fortune
Bay (p. 114), Placintia Bay (p. 114), and the Bay of Island* (p. 115). The
value of the salmon-fishery is about $ 75,000 per annum. The number of
persons engaged in catching and curing fish is about 55,0(X). The riches of
the encompassing seas are seemingly inexhaustible. At a day^s sail from
the E. shore are the Great Banke (p. 113), 600 M. long, with their swarming
fish-life, while the whole Atlantic coast of Labrador, 1100 H. in length,
is under the jurisdiction of Newfoundland and as a fishing-ground is of
incalculable value. Whale-fishing was also revived some years ago, and
1275 whales were caught in 1903-1, yielding 1,788,304 gallons of oU. besides
other products. Since then, however, the whale-fishery has steadily declined.
Imports, Exports, and Bevenue. In 1904-5 the total value of the ex-
ports was $ 10,699,342 ; of the imports $ 10,279,293. The revenue for the
same year was $ 2,295,960, and the public debt $ 22,045,388.
Olimate. The climate of Newfoundland, being insular, is variable and
subject to sudden changes. The intense summer heats of the United
States and Canada and the fierce colds of their winters are alike unknown.
It is but rarely, and then only for a few hours, that the thermometer
sinks below zero (Fahr.) in winter ; and in summer it is but seldom that
80* are reached. That the climate is salubrious is evidenced by the ro-
bust healthy appearance of the people, and the great age to which num-
bers of them live. The Arctic current, washing the E. shores, shortens the
summer. Fogs are confined to the Great Banks and to the 8. and S.S.
shores. The weather in W. Newfoundland is very fine and the vegetation
generally a month in advance of that on the £. coast. The summer.
History, NfiWFOtTNDLAND. 26. ttoute, 105
though short, is generally delightful. The heat is never oppressive, the
nights are cool \ days bright and balmy often sncceed each other for
weeks together. Those who wish to escape from the relaxing and op-
pressive heats of the continent will find an agreeable refuge here.
September and October are generally pleasant months, in which the
sportsman can enjoy himself in pursuit of caribou, grouse, snipe, curlew,
etc. Tornadoes and cyclones are unknown, and thunder-storms are rare.
Usually the autumn is prolonged into November, and the snow seldom
covers the ground permanently till near Christmas.
Population. According to the census of 1901, the population is
234,931. In this are included 8947 white residents in Labrador and 1400
Eskimo. The people are entirely derived from Saxon and Celtic stocks.
The representatives of the former number 148,942, of the latter 76,909.
They are a vigorous , hardy , energetic people. The great bulk of them
lead a healthy open-air life , engaged in the fisheries. They are kindly,
simple in their manners, quick and intelligent, law-abiding, and noted
for their friendliness towards strangers. Their fishing-settlements, villages,
and hamlets are sprinkled all around the shores, often in the most curious
and picturesque situations among the clefts of the rocks. Their fishing-
stages and ^flakes' for drying codfish constitute a special feature at iJl
the fishing-centres. — The Beothiks or BeothukSy the aborigines of Newfound-
land, were a branch of the Algonquin race (comp. p. xlvii). Though once
numerous and powerful, they have gradually disappeared before the ad-
vance of the white man, and no living Beothik has been seen since 1823
(comp. p. 111).
History. Newfoundland was discovered by John Cabot in 1497. There
is little doubt, however, that it had been known 600 years previously to
the Norsemen, who named it EMuUmd , or the 'land of naked rock8\
When Cabot made his discovery he was in the service of Henry VII. of
England, from whom he had obtained a patent authorizing his search for
new lands; and his ship was manned by Englishmen (largely from Devon).
He was the first discoverer of the continent of North America. Thus by
right of discovery, Newfoundland belonged to England.
Judge Prowse (see p. 109) divides the history of Newfoundland into four
main epochs. The first of these, lasting from 1497 to about 1610, he de-
scribes aa a time when the island ^was a kind of no-man^s-land
frequented alike by English and foreign fishermen, ruled in a rough way
by the reckless valour of Devonshire men, half pirates, half traders."
English fishermen frequented the island from the year after CaboCs dis-
covery, and the news of the abundance of fish in Newfoundland waters
very quickly reached the ears of the Portuguese and of the French fisher-
men of Normandy and Brittany. All these hardy mariners were soon
busily employed in taking cod on the Great Banks and near the shore,
and they were followed in 1642 by the Basque or Biscayan fishermen,
who gave the name of Bcuxalaos (Ncod-lands*) to Newfoundland and the
neighbouring coasts. In 1678 no fewer than 4(X) fishing-vessels were employ-
ed, of which 150 were French and only 50 English; but the latter, though
in 80 marked a minority, seem to have been more or less recognized as
the rulera of the fishing community. In 1600 there were 200 English vessels
at work, which employed 10,000 men and boys, as catchers on board and
cnrers on shore; and the Newfoundland fisheries became the stay and
support of the W. counties of England, being worth 100,000 1, annually — an
immense sum in those days. Thus the attraction which first led Englishmen
to these W. seas and first induced them to colonize the new lands was the
immense fish-wealth in the waters around Newfoundland. The same im-
pulse brought the French to the St. Lawrence and led to the long struggle
between the two nations. Ilie fisheries laid the foundation of the empire
won by England in the New World.
The second great period extends from 1610 to 1713 and may be de-
scribed as an era of 'struggle between the permanent settlers and the
Western adventurers, or ship fishermen from Devon". After the days of
Cabot, various attempts were made to colonize the island, but none proved
successful. The most conspicuous of the attempts were made by Sir George
106 Route 26. NEWFOUNDLAND. EUtory.
CalverU afterwards Lord Baltimore, and at a later date by Sir David Kirke
in 16S» (comp. p. 113). Previously, however, in 1615, Captain Richard
Whi(boum«i mariner, of Exmonth, Devonshire, was sent ont Dy the British
Admiralty to regulate matters among the fishing-population, which had
greatly increased. He wrote the first book on Newfoundland ('Westward
Ho ! for Avalon'), which is now rare and valuable. In 1583 Sir Humphrey
Oilberty half-brother to Sir Walter Raleigh, landed in Newfoundland, armed
with letters patent from Queen Elizabeth authorizing him to colonize
the island and exercise jurisdiction over all the neighbouring lands within
200 leagues in every direction. He was, however, lost at sea on his return
voyage, so that nothing came of this attempt at colonization. Meantime,
however, the hardy industrious fishermen were forming settlements around
the shores of the island, increasing in numbers and trying to make homes
for themselves. But the difficulties they had to contend with in doing so
were of a very formidable character. The fisheries had all along been
carried on by merchants, ship-owners, and traders, who resided in the
W. of England. For their own profit and advantage they wished to establish
a monopoly and to retain the harbours' and shores for their own servants,
whom they sent out to carry on the fishery each sununer and to return
before winter. Hence their aim was to prevent settlement, the building
of houses , and the cultivation of the soil. Being wealthy and influential
men, they nad the ear of successive English governments, whom they
induced to pass laws to enable these 'Merchant Adventurers', as they
were called, to accomplish the end they had in view. They were suc-
cessful, too, in misleading the nation by false statements about the bar-
renness of the soil and the necessity of preserving the fisheries as a
nursery of seamen for the Boyal Navy. Hence laws were passed prohibiting
masters of vessels from carrying out any settlers, and binding them to
bring back at the close of each fishing-season the fishermen who went out
in spring. When it was found that settlement went on in spite of these
restrictions, an order was issued to bum down all the houses — an edict
which the humanity of the English Commissioner happily made him hesitate
to put in execution and which, on strong remonstrances to the King, was
revoked. The 'Fishing Admirals'*, aa the representatives of the merchants
were called, long oppressed and robbed the people, taking possession of
the best fishing-grounds and driving the inhabitants from their own fields.
At length a better day dawned. England found out her mistake and
the deception that had been practised on her. The country ceased to be
a mere fishing-station and was at last reeognized as a colony of the British
Empire. The third great period, that of the colony under naval gover-
nors (1711-1832), may be said to begin with Captain Crowe (1711), though
Captain Osborne was the first to receive a formal appointment (172U).
The Treaty of Utrecht, in 1713, ended the long struggle between the
French and English fishermen. In carrying out their plans for founding
an empire in ^e New World, the French statesmen had been eager to
obtain possession of Newfoundland. They knew that holding it, they could
control the fisheries and also command the narrow entrance to the St.
Lawrence and their possessions in Canada. They obtained a footing, at
length, on the S. shore and founded Placentia (see p. 120). During the
long wars between the two nations, the French sent out several expeditions
for the conquest of the island, but without success. Their presence and
encroachments, however, were a constant source of loss and annoyance
to the settlers. By one of the articles of the Treaty of Utrecht France
agreed to surrender all her possessions in Newfoundland and to evacuate
Placentia. The sovereignty of the whole island was thus secured to
England, and the French renounced all territorial rights. Unfortunately,
however, the treaty gave them certain privileges that led to a long series
of disputes which were not settled till just the other day (see pp. l(/7, 108).
In 1729 the resident population was 6(KX). Some semblance of civil govern-
ment was now gradually introduced. Improvements came very slowly. In
1750 a court for the trial of criminal cases was established. Till then all
criminals had been sent to England for trial. It was not till 1792 that
a Supreme Court for the whole island was appointed, with power to try
CaruUtution. NEWFOUNDLAND. 26, RouU. 107
all offenders and determine suits of a civil nature ; and its jurisdiction,
moreover, was not completely established till 1826. It was not till 1813
that houses could be erected without the written permission of the governor
or that grants of land could be made. Ko other British colony was ever dealt
with so harshly. Kot without reason did Lord Salisbury describe the colony
as having been throughout its career *the sport of historic misfortunes'.
Still, the sturdy fishermen held their ground, contended for their liber-
ties, and continued to increase in numbers. In 1763 the population num-
bered 13,000, in 1804 it reached 20,000. An agitation for a local govern-
ment commenced, and in 1882 ^representative government' was granted.
The first local Legislature was opened in 1833. This marks the opening
of the fourth or modern period. In 1854 the privilege of self-government
was completed by the concession of 'responsible government'.
The progress of the colony during the last six^ years has been steady
and substantial. Civilizing infiuences have been at work. An educational
system has been established and, of late, considerably improved. Agri-
culture has been encouraged, and manufactures of various kinds com-
menced. In 1808 the first Atlantic cable was landed on the shore of Tri-
nity Bay (p. 116). In 1884 the first railway from St. John's to Harbour
Grace was opened (p. 120). In 18^98 the line was extended across the
island to Bay of Islands and St. George's Bay, having its W. terminus at
Port^aux-Basoues, 90 M. from Gape Breton (comp. p. 119). In 1894 the failure
of two local banks entailed great losses on the community.
Belation to Canada. Judging by the geographical position of the is-
land, it would seem that by 'manifest destiny' it belongs to the Dominion
of Canada, and should long since have become a member of that great
confederacy of British provinces. The bulk of its people, however, seem
to think differently, and have hitherto declined to unite with Canada.
Attempts were made in 1869 and 1895 to bring about a union, but without
result. Since that date Confederation has not been made a political
issue. The sentiment of loyalty to the flag of England is strong, and
no proposal of annexation to the United States has ever yet taken shape.
The position of the island, as holding the key of the St. Lawrence, and
thus being essential to the rounding off and safety of the Dominion,
precludes the idea that it would ever pass from under the flag of England.
Oonstitntion. The form of government which now regulates the affairs
of the Colony, and which is working on the whole satisfactorily, is that
known as 'Responsible Government'. It consists of a Oovemor, who is
nominated by the Grown, his salary of $ 12,000 a year being paid by the
Colony ) an Exeeutim Coundl^ chosen by the party commanding a minority
in the Legislature, and consisting of seven members, the Governor being
President or Chairman ^ a LegUlative Council of fifteen members, nominat-
ed by the Governor in Coundl \ and a House of Assemblpy at present con-
sisting of 36 members, elected every four years by the votes of the people.
There are 18 electoral districts. The members of the House of Assembly
are elected by ballot. All males on reaching the age of twenty-one are
entitled to vote. The members of both branches of the Legislature are
paid. The Legislature meets once a year. Acts become law after passing
both chambers and receiving the assent of the Governor.
The French Treaty Bights in Newfoundland. The sovereignty of the
island, as has been stated (see p. 106), belonged wholly to Great Britain,
but, in virtue of certain ancient treaties, the French had the privilege of
taking and drying fish on that portion of the coast which extends from
Cape Rapt round theW. and N., to Cape 81. John on the N.E. shore. They
had no right to occupy permanently, or to settle on any portion of the coast,
or to erect any buildings, except such huts and scaffolds as might be ne-
cessary for drying their fish. French fishermen were not permitted to winter
on the island. The treaties in which these concessions w^re made to the
French are those of Utrecht (1713), Paris (1763), Versailles (1783), and the
second treaty of Paris (1816). A serious difference of opinion existed for
more than a century between England and France as to the proper inter-
pretation of these treaties, the language of which is often obscure. The
French contended that the treaties gave them the exelueive right to the
108 Route 26, NEWFOUNDLAND. Sport,
fisheries, and also to the ase of the shore, so that British subjects could
not lawfully fish within those limits, or occupy the land for any purpose.
Had this contention been well founded, it would have entirely closed up the
best half of Kewfouhdland against its use by British subjects, in order that
along a coast 450 M. in length a few French fishermen might, during three
or four months of the year, catch and dry codfish. Such a dog-in-the-
manger policy would have prevented either party from cultivating the
land, or carrying on mining or lumbering operations. England and her sub-
jects in the colony always repudiated this interpretation and maintained
that they had a concurrent right of fishing wherever they did not interfere
with the operations of French fishermen; and also that they had a right
to settle on the land and develop its resources. In point 6t fact, over
17,000 British subjects settled on the Treaty Shore. Custom-houses were
erected, magistrates appointed, and law-courts established on this co&stt
and two members elected by the inhabitants represented them in the local
legislature. This, of course, added considerably to the complications of
this vexed question. However, by the Anglo-French trtUy of 1904, the
French formally resigned their former rights in Newfoundland, in return
for a sum of money, a free hand in Morocco, and a concession in West
Africa, and the islanders now have entire control of their own island.
The French Shore question has been replaced by a new difficulty
arising from the failure of the U.S. Senate to ratify the so-called Hay
Bond Compact, by which freedom for the purchase of bait by American
fishermen would have been secured in exchange for a reduction of the
tariff on numerous articles imported into Newfoundland firom the United
States. In 1905 and 1906 acts were passed by the Newfoundland Govern-
ment to prohibit the exportation of bait and to prevent the hiring of
native Newfoundlanders for the crews of foreign vessels. The result of
this has been to inflict great injury on the American fishing-fleet and the
French fishing-industry at St. Pierre has been practically ruined (comp.
p. 124).
Sport. The chief objects of the chase in Newfoundland are the Cari-
bou (Rangifer tarandus Terra-nova€) and the Partridge or Willovo Orottse
(Lagopus allms). The season for the former lasts from Oct. 20th to Feb.
1st and from July 31st to Oct. 1st, that for the latter from Oct. 1st to
Jan. 12th. Non-residents of the Colony require a license for shooting
caribou (fee $50-80). Not more than three stags and one doe may be
killed by one sportsman in the same season. Other game includes hares,
rabbits, wild geese and ducks, curlew, snipe, plover, otter, and beaver
(close time for otter and beaver April 1st to Oct 1st). Salmon (dose lime
Sept. 15th to Jan. 15th) are found in all the principal rivers, and Trout
(close time Sept. 16th to Jan. 15th) abound in all the streams and lakes. —
Lists of licensed Guides are given in the guidebooks of Judge Prowse and
the Railway Co. (p. 109).
Koney. The monetary system of Newfoundland is similar to that of
Canada, and Canadian coins pass at full value (see p. xi). British gold
coins pass current at the rate of 1/. =: $4.86, while U. S. gold coins
and bills are taken at their face value in ordinary trade. British silver
coins circulate at the rate of U. = $4.80.
Poatal Information. The letter-rate of postage within Newfoundland
is 2 c. per oz. \ to Canada, Great Britain, and certain British Colonies 2 c.
per Vsoz. } to the other countries of the Postal Union 5 c. per >/soz.|
letters for delivery within the city 1 c. per oz. Parcels to Canada cost
15 c. per lb., to the United States 12 c. per lb., to the United Kingdom
24 c. for Bibs., 48 c. up to 7 lbs. The other regulations are similar to those
of Canada (p. xxi). — The Telegraph Bate from St. John's to places in
Newfoundland varies from 20 c. for 10 words and 2 c. for each additional
word to 50 c. per ten words and 4 c. per additional word. The rate to
the nearest parts of Canada and the United States are $ 1-1 V4 per 10 words
and 9-11 c. for each additional word to Great Britain 25 c. per word. —
Expreu Orders issued by recognized express companies, are cashed at their
face value by the Newfoundland Expreu Co. in any part of the island.
Newfoundland. ST. JOHN'S. 26. Route. 109
Bibliography. The best history of Newfoundland is /). W. Protetes
^History of Newfoundland from the Records' (2nd ed., 1896). The reports
of the Newfoundland Geological Survey and the official ^Tear Book and
Almanac of Newfoundland' will be found useful. Among other works that
may be mentioned are ^Newfoundland: the Oldest British Colony', by
Jogeph Hatton and Rev.^Mo$e$ Harvey (1883), BonnycastleU *Newfoundland'
(1842), BeckU$ WilUon''» 'The Tenth Island' (1897), Prof. J, B. Juket^ 'Ex-
cursions in and about Newfoundland' (1842), and 'The Newfoundland
Guide Book', edited by 2). W. Frowte (London, 1905). The Reid Newfoundland
Co. also issues a yearly guide (gratis) to Newfoundland and Labrador.
a. St. John's.
The approach to St. John's t by sea excites the admiration of even
the most blas^ traveller. As the steamer skirts the iron-bound coast,
it suddenly tarns towards the shore and appears as if about to dash
itself against the rocks. Presently, however, a narrow opening ap-
pears in the wall, and as the vessel glides through this, we see above
us huge cliffs of dark-red sandstone piled in broken masses on a
foundation of gray slate rock. On the right towers an almost per-
pendicular precipice, 300 ft. high, above which rises the crest of
Signal Hill (608 ft.), with the station for signalling vessels as they
approach the harbour. On the left the rugged hill attains a height
of 600 ft. , and from its base juts out a rocky promontory bearing the
Fort Amherst Lighthouse. The *Nafrow8j or channel leading to the
harbour, is 72^^' lo^g> ^^^ a* t^^c narrowest point, between Pancafcc
and Chair Rockt — across which in olden days a chain could be drawn
to shut out hostile cruisers — it is only 600 ft. wide. It is not till near
the end of the Narrows that the city becomes visible. Beyond the
channel the harbour trends suddenly to the W., so that it is com-
pletely land-locked and safely sheltered from the waves of the At-
lantic. Yessels of the largest tonnage can enter at all periods of the
tide, the rise of which does not exceed 4 ft. The harbour Is fully
1 M. long and nearly 1/2 ^^ wide.
St. John's. — Arrival. Cuitom- House Officers meet the steamer to ex-
amine and pass the passengers' luggage. — Cab$ also meet the steamers
(fare to hotel, incl. ordinary luggage, 40-500.).
Hotels. OsosBiB Hotel, $1V2-2; Goohbanb House, Balsam House,
from $ 2V«; Waveblet? Tbemont House, City, unpretending, $ I-IV2. None
of the hotels are flrst-class. — Board and Private Lodgings can be easily
obtained. — Good Port Wine is a specialty of St. John's.
Oaba: 30-50c. per drive within the city; 80c. per hr.; $4-6 per day. —
Bleotrio Oars run past the railway-station along Water St. and make the
circuit of the city by way of the Military Road along the crest of the
ridge. — Kail Waggons run to Portugal Cove^ Petty Harbour^ Ferryland^
Torbay, etc. — Steamers ply to various points on the l^ewfoundland coast
(comp. pp. 114, 115), to Labrador (see p. 117) , to Halifax (see p. 102) , to
" ' (see p. 102), to Sydney (p. 67), to New York (see p. KW), to Liverpool
}2), to Glasgow (see p. 102), and other ports.
Montreal .
(see p. 102),
+ This is the recognized official spelling, though the weight of the
older authorities is in favour of St. Johns (without the apostrophe), follow ^
ing the analogy of St. Ives, St. Kitts, and similar names. 3 0(3QIC
110 Route 26. ST. JOHN'S. Newfoundland.
Po«t Office, Water St. (open 7.90 a.m. to 9 p.m.; oomp. p. 106). —
Telegraph Office, Water St. (open 8.80 a.m. to 9 p.m.). — Anglo-Ameziean
Telegraph Oo., Exchange Building (open 8.80 a.m. to 9 p.m.)
Bai^B. Bank of Montreal; Bank of If ova ScoHa; Aferchantt* Bank;
Royal Bank of Canada; Oovemnteni Savings Bank fall open 10-3). — Three
daily papers are published: the Dailp New^ the Evening Herald^ and the
Evening Telegram (Ic. each). There are also three weekly papers: the
Free Press* the Trade Review^ and the News.
OoubxlLb, U.S., Mr. G. 0. Cornelius; German, Mr. Kenneth B. Prowu;
Italian, Mr. Henry J. Stabb; French Vice-Consnl, Mr. J. F. Rigoreau.
St. John^s, the capital of Newfoundland, is situated on the £. side
of the peninsula of Avalon (p. 103), in 47*»33'3" N. lat. and 62<>
46' 10" W. long. , 60 M. to the N. of Cape Race (p. 113), 600 M.
from Halifax, 1070 M. from Montreal, 1100 M. from New York, and
1700 M. from Queenstown (about 1000 M. nearer than New York).
The ground on which it lies rises f^om the N. side of the harbour,
and in picturesqueness of site it is unexcelled by any city on the
American continent The three chief streets, ofwhiohWATBBSTRBBT
is the most important , run parallel with the harbour. On the S.
side of the harbour the hill springs so abruptly from the water's edge
as to leave room only for a few warehouses and oil-factories. The
attractive shops and houses of Water Street are of brick or stone,
but in other parts of the city most of the buildings are of wood, pre-
senting a very dingy and unattractive aspect. The population of St.
John's in 1901 was 29,694 or nearly one-seventh of lie entire popula-
tion of the island, and it is now estimated as at least 36,000.
St. John^s, founded soon after the discovery of the island, gradually
grew from a few fishermen's hats, clustering round the harbour, to a
town stretching up the slope to the "S. and along its crest. By 1836 its
population was 15,000. In 1846 a great fire destroyed about two-thirds of
the city, which was rebuilt on a much improved plan. On July 8th, 1892,
St. John^s was visited by another terrible conflagration, which swept
away fully half the city, including the Ohurch of England OathedriJ,
St. Andrew's Presbyterian Ohurch, and the massive warehouses of Water St.
About 11,000 persons were left homeless, and property to the value of
$12-16,000,000 was destroyed. This terribje calamity awoke a lively
sympathy in other lands, and contributions poured in from Oanada,
England, and Uie United States. The people of St. John*s set themselves
with great energy to the task of re-erecting their burned city, and nearly
all traces of the fire have disappeared. The streets have been widened,
and the new buildings are much superior to the old. An efficient fire-
department has been created to lessen the danger of a repetition of the
catastrophe.
The chief business interests of St. John^s are, of course, its fisheries
and its whale and seal oil refineries, but of recent years it has made fair
progress in manufactures, and it now contains iron-foundries, machine-
shops, shoe, furniture, tobacco, and soap factories, breweries, tanneries,
and a large and well-equipped rope-walk. — The strawberries grown near
St. John's have an exceptionally fine flavour.
The most conspicuous building in St. John's is the Boman
Catholic Cathedral (St. John the Baptist), which occupies a com-
manding site on the summit of the hill on which the city is built.
It is in the form of a Latin cross, 237 ft. long and 180 ft. wide across
the transepts, with two towers, 138 ft. in height. It Is richly or-
namented with statuary and paintings and presents an impressive
Newfoundland. ST. JOHN'S. 26, Route. Ill
appearance. Adjacent to it are the Bishop^s Palace^ St Bonaven-
ture College, and b. Convent, the whole group of buildings having
cost about $500,000. — The ^Church of England Cathedral, aboat
halfway np the slope, is olie of the finest ecclesiastical edifices in
British Ameiica. It was designed by Sir Oilbert Scott in an Early
English style, and is also dedicated to St. John the Baptist. Unfor-
tunately it was greatly injured in the great fire of 1892, but has
been restored.
On the MiLiTABY Road, running along the crest of the ridge,
stands the Colonial Bnilding or Honse of Farliamenti containing
chambers for the two branches of the Legislature. It is 110 ft. long
and 85 ft. wide, and was built in 1847 at a cost of 100,000«. Its
Ionic portico is borne by six massive columns, 30 ft. high. — To
the E. of it is Oovemment House, a plain, substantial, and com-
fortable residence, erected by the Imperial Government in 1828,
at a cost of 30,000i. It is surrounded by well-kept grounds.
A fine Court Honse, of native stone, was opened in 1904 in Water
St. (see p. 110). — The Post Oface, near the middle of Water St.,
is a very creditable building, completed in 1887. The upper portion
is devoted to the purposes of a *Puhlic Museum,
The museum, which is well worthy of a visit, contains interesting
relics of the Beothikt , the extinct aboriginal inhabitants of Newfound-
land (comp. p. 105)^ stuffed specimens of the caribou, bears, seals, birds,
and fishes of the island} and a collection illustrative of its timber, mineral
wealth, and geological formation.
At the E. end of Water St. stands the Custom House, which
has been rebuilt since the fire of 1892.
The Penitentiary^ a solid granite building, and the Hospital are
on the outskirts of the city.
The large Fish Stores, in Water St., and "^ the OH Factories, on the
S. side of the harbour, will well repay an examination.
The Dry Dock, at the head of the harbour, built, of wood, in
1884, at a cost of $ 550,000, is 600 ft. long and 130 ft. wide, with a
depth of 25 ft. on its sill at low water. It is thus able to accommo-
date all but the very largest ocean steamers afloat.
Walks and Drives in the Neighbourhood of St. John's.
1. Signal Hill. The top of ♦Signal Hill (508 ft.), overlooking the
Narrows (comp. p. 109), is reached in a walk of V* ^r., or by a carriage
drive. At the height of 350 ft. two small and deep lakes are passed. At
the summit is the Cabot Tower» erected as a monumeht to John Cabot, the
discoverer of the island (1197), and used for signalling to ships at sea.
The foundation-stone was laid in 1897 in commemoration of Queen Vic-
toria's Diamond Jubilee. The custodian will point out and describe the
•View from the top of the tower, which on a clear day is very fine. On the
one side is the broad Atlantic. Looking to the N. we see Sugar Loaf, Red
Head (700 ft.), Logie Bay, Toi'baff Head^ and the serrated range of hills on
the 8. side of Conception Bay. The dark perpendicular sea-wall, with numer-
ous indentations, runs up to Cape St. Frond*. A fine sweep of country,
dotted with numerous glittering lakelets and farm-houses and fringed with
sombre groves of fir, stretches away to the N. W. The great chasm which
forms the entrance to the harbour is seen below, guarded by precipitous
112 Route 26. QUID! VIDI. Newfoundland.
rock-masses. The remains of tbe batteries which once commanded the
narrow entrance are visible on their rocky platforms. Fort Amherst and
Cape Bpear Lighthouses and Fresh Water Bay^ with its fishermen's cottages,
are seen to the S. A bird^s-eye-view is presented of the harbour, with
the whole city lying along the N. slope and crowned by the Roman Cath-
olic cathedral. A lower peak called Ctallows Hill stands out prominently.
Here in the olden time criminals were executed in sight of the whole
city. — In 1762 Signal Hill was the scene of a brief but bloody struggle.
For the third time the French had then got possession of St. John's. Lord
Golville was sent from Halifax with a squadron to drive them out. Colonel
Amherst landed a force from the fleet at Torbay and marched overland
to St. John's. Up the rugged heights from Quidi Vidi (see below) the Eng-
lish soldiers charged to capture Signal Hill, the key of the position. The
French fought desperately, and having a great advantage from their
position succeeded several times in repulsing their foes. At length a
company of Highlanders with fixed bavonets dashed up the heights and
swept all before them. Signal Hill being won, the French saw that all
was lost, and their fleet crept out of the harbour in a fog and escaped.
St. John's never again fell into the hands of the French. — The red
sandstone which caps the hill belongs to the Huronian system of rocks,
corresponding to tibe English Cambrian, which is developed all over the
peninsula of Avalon. The hill itself is strewed with large boulders holding
jasper fand other water- worn pebbles, showing that they once formed the
margin of an old Silurian sea and that by foldings and various earth-
movements the sea-bottom has become a hill 620 feet above the level of '
the water. Here, too, are seen striations on the rock-surfaces showing
that at a later period they were under glacier action. Geologists tell us
that the whole island was once in the same condition in which Greenland
now is — under a great ice-cap many hundreds of feet in thickness.
2. Quidi Vidi. Close to St. John's lies Quidi Vidi Lake, Vs H. in
length , on which an annual regatta is held. The village of ^^juidi Vidi
is a typical fishing- villi^e, where can be seen in perfection the stages
projecting over the water of the little harbour, at which the fishermen
land their fish, and the 'flakes^ on which the cod are dried. During the
fishing- season the visiter should time his arrival at the village for about
p.m., when the boat-loads of fish come in and the whole process of 'split-
ting', 'heading% and 'salting' can be seen. The small harbour is connected
with the ocean by a narrow gut, only deep enough for fishing-boats. All
around rise steep red cliflfs in fantastic shapes. These, with the fishing-
boats, stages, and flakes, make a strikingly characteristic picture. Artists
find this the most attractive spot about the city. A little river flowing
through the lake forms a pretty cascade as it tumbles over the rocks into
the harbour. Visitors will enjoy a chat with the sturdy fishermen and
their wives. Their insular peculiarities, linguistic oddities, and quaint
views of things form an interesting study.
3. LoGiB Bat and Torbat. The road runs to the N. to (2 M.) Virginia
Watery a pretty little lake embosomed in woods, and (4 M.) Logie Bay, with
its striking coast scenery. Outer and Middle Coves^ 2 M. farther on, are
scarcely less remarkable. The thriving village of Torbay (1495 inhab.), 8 M.
from St. John's, is one of the most picturesque spots on the coast, with a
handsome Boman Catholic church, a convent, excellent school-houses, and
a large public hall. This 17. coast is characterised by the massive grandeur
of its perpendicular clifi's, often sculptured into forms of stem beauty.
4. PoBTuoAL CovB, 9 M. The road winds towards the N., along the
shore of Windsor Lake, which supplies the city with water, and then
through a little valley of rare beauty. At the end of the valley the bright
waters of *Oonception Bay (p. 119) come into view. On the S. shore of the
bay lies the fishing-village of *Fortugal Oove (1000 inhab.), perched amid
the clefts of the rocks, a little waterfall tumbling over the clifi's into the
sea. Cortereal discovered this bay in 1501 and named the roadstead after
his country. The return to St. John's may be made via 8t. Philip's (Broad
Co9e) and the Thorbum Road (a charming drive). — Good trout-fishing may
be obtained in ponds along iJl of the above routes.
Newfoundland. PETTY HARBOUR. 26. RouU. 113
b. l^om St. John's to BenewB. Cape Bace.
64 M. A Mail Waooon plies twice a week from St. John'^s to Renews
(see below) in 24 hrs. (fare $4), bat visitors will find it much more
comfortable to hire a carriage (fare about $4 a day). The road is good
and the views are often superb. The hotel-accommodation is, however,
very primitive , and it is advisable to start with a well-filled luncheon-
basket. The 'Barrens' along this route are famous for their 'partridge*
(willow-grouse) shooting, the season for which begins on Oct. 1st.
The first part of the road is excellent and affords many beautiful
views. 4 M. Bldckhead, a village near Cape Spear^ the easternmost
point of N. America (comp. p. 103).
9 M. Petty Harbour, a charming village with (1901) 1771 inhab.,
situated at the mouth of a deep ravine through which flows a clear
stream into the snug little harbour, fringed with fish-flakes and shut
in by towering precipices. The electric power-house for lighting
St. John^s and running its street-railway is stationed here.
About 3»/t M. to the S. of Petty Harbour is *3%e Spouf — a funnel-
shaped opening from above into a cavern which the sea has scooped
out. In stormy weather, the sea, rushing into the cavern, hurls the
spray and foam aloft through the opening, presenting a curious sight,
visible at times for miles around.
Beyond Petty Harbour the road runs along the so-called ^Straight
8horeofAvalon'to{Q.0U.')BayofBuUs, Mo6i^C24M.), and (39 M.)
Cape Broyle.
At (44 M.) Ferryland, a little town with (1901) 536 inhab., Sir
George Calvert^ afterwards Lord Baltimore, built a fort and a fine
mansion in which he resided for two years with his family. Here,
too, Sir David Kvrke took up his residence in 1638, armed with the
powers of a Count Palatine over the whole island.
51 M. Feirmeuie, a village of 560 inhab., with its deep and safe
harbour j 54 M. Renews (580 inhab.).
Cape Bace, the S.E. point of the island, where many a gallant
ship has met her doom, lies about 10 M. to the S. of Renews , from
which it may be reached by road, boat, or steamer (comp. p; 114).
Round its grim rocks swift conflicting currents circle ; dark fogs brood
here in summer for weeks together, so that the navigator has to shape
his course mainly by the soundings. The dangers to navigation have
been greatly lessened by the erection of a powerful fog- whistle on
the Cape j and it is also a Marconi Wireless Station. Its lighthouse
is 180 ft. above the sea-level and can be seen at a distance of 20 M.
About 50 M. to the E. of Cape Race are the Great Banks of Newfound-
land, famous for their cod-fisheries. They are about 600 M. long and
300 M. wide, while the depth of water upon them ranges from 10 to 160
fathoms, with an average of 40 fathoms. Marine life of all kinds is abund-
ant on the Banks, and cod and other fish resort to them in immense
numbers. The vessels frequenting the Great Banks are known as ^bankers'*
and are larger and better fitted out than those of the coast-fisheries. The
fishermen on the Banks, who, it is estimated, number 100,000, are of various
nations and ply their hard labours shrouded in dense fogs and often in
dangerous proximity to icebergs. A graphic idea of life on the Banks is
given by Mr. Rudyard Kipling in his 'Captains Courageous' (1897).
Babdekbb's Canada. 3rd Edit. 8
114 RoiUe26, PLACENTIA BAY. Newfoundland.
c. From St. John's to Bonne Bay by Sea.
651 M. Mail Stbahes 'P&ospbbo' of the Bowring Brothers Ooastal
Mail Service every alternate Wed., reaching Bonne Bay in 6-6 days (fares
S 15, $ 8Vs, including stateroom and meals). The round trip takes about
10 days, and those who prefer may land at one of the 24 intermediate
ports and spend a few days in fishing, sketching, or photographing.
The steamei makes its first call at (33 M.) Ferryland (p. 113),
then rounds Cape Race (p. 113) and enters the fine harhcurof (75 M.)
Trepassey (800 inhah.), the landing-place for Cape Race. Beyond
CapeJPine and St. ShoWsj the scene of many shipwrecks, we ascend
St. Mary^s Bay, 25 M. wide and 35 M. deep, the first of the great
bays which indent this coast. The village of St. Marys, on its E.
shoie, with 500 inhab., is largely engaged in fishing and has a farm-
ing district around it.
Leaving St. Mary's Bay, we steer round Cape St. Mary and enter
*Flacentia Bay (comp. p. 121), the largest bay of Newfoundland,
with a length of 90 M. and a width (at its mouth) of 55 M. It
contains several clusters of islands, one of which, Great Merasheen,
is 21 M. long. The scenery of the bay is very fine. The steamer
calls at (140 M.) Placentia (see p. 120), Burin (190 M. ; Capt. Holbers ;
Bennett Hotet), Great St. Lawrence (800 inhah.} Sea View), and
Lamaline (650 inhah.; Miss Pittan's). Burin, vrith (1901) 2719
inhah., is a husy and prosperous place, with a land-locked harbour,
extensive fisheries, and a trade vnth St. Pierre (p. 124).
We next' round the end of the peninsula of Burin, between
Placentia Bay and Fortune Bay. To the left, as we approach the
entrance of the latter, lie the French islands of St. Pierre and
Miquelon (see R. 27). — Fortune Bay, 65 M. long and 35 M. wide,
is noted for its extensive herring-fishery and is much frequented by
American fishing-vessels. It was the centre of the bait-carrying traffic
with St. Pierre. The ports called at within the bay are (260 M.)
Fortune (950 inhah.). Grand Bank (1427inhab.; Mrs. Footers),
Great Jervois, BeUeoram, St. Jacques, and (283 M.) Harbour Breton
(800 inhab.; Mrs. Macdonald's).
A little farther to the W. the steamer enters ^Hermitage Cove and
*Baie d*Espoir (corrupted into Bay Despair), the scenery of which is
pronounced hy many travellers the finest in the island.
From this point to Gape Ray extends a straight line of coast,
150 M. in length, indented by numerous sn\all inlets and fringed
with islands. Among the latter are the Penguin Islands (seen to the
left) and the Burgee Islands, on the largest of which Capt. Cook
observed an eclipse of the sun in 1765. — 370 M. Burgeo, a village
with (1901) 946 inhah., on one of the Burgeo Islands, is one of the
most important places on the S. coast.
In few places can be seen more romantic villages than Burin, Harbour
Breton, Burgeo, and Rose Bla^he (p. 115). The effect of the pond-like
harbours, surrounded by rugged hills, is enhanced by the haphazard way
in which the cottages are dotted down among the rocks, wherever a foot-
hold can be obtained. The whole coast is a paradise for artists.
Newfoundland. BAY ST. GEORGE. 26. Route. 115
405 M. La Poile (60 inhab.) , the next point stopped at , lies
at the head of one of the chief inlets of this coast. — 419 M. Rose
Blanche is a highly picturesque little village on another small hay.
446 M. Fort-anz-BasqaeB (Sea View Hotel; V. 8, Agent), with
(1901) 1052 inhah. (including Channel) j has a splendid harhour,
open all the year round, and is a place of considerable importance as
the terminus of the transinsular railway (see p. 119).
Rounding Cape Bay, the S.W. point of Newfoundland (p. 103),
the steamer now turns to the N. and passes along what is popularly
known as the French Shore (p: 107). Opposite Cape Ray, on the
Gape Breton shore, is Cape North, the two capes guarding the en-
trance of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. From Cape Ray to Cape AnguUle
the coast is singularly rugged and inhospitable in appearance. The
Great and Little Codroy Rivers enter the sea between these two
points after flowing through a fertile valley 40 M. in length. The coast
is backed here by the Long Bange (p. 103), extending with inter-
ruptions nearly to the N. extremity of the island.
The fine ♦Bay St. George (9100 inhab.; p. 123) is now en-
' tered. Its fertile shores are rich in minerals, coal-beds, and forests.
One day it will be the garden of the colony. The steamer calls at
(516 M.) Sandy Point and then rounds the peninsula of Port-au-Port,
noted for its lead deposits. It is a paradise of geologists, who have
chiselled from its rocks some of the most gigantic Cephalopoda in
existence. Petroleum has been discovered here, as well as farther
up the W. coast, and there are indications that it extends over a
wide area, but as yet little boring has been done.
The (610 M.) ♦Bay of Islands (1500 inhab. j BrUish American
Hotel, Victoria Place, $1-11/2) comp. p. 122), with its magnificent
scenery, now opens to the right. Its three arms run 20 M. inland,
one of them receiving the *Humber River, the second largest river
in the island. As its name indicates, it has numerous islands.
The Hamber is noted for its beautiful scenery, the marble beds along
its banks, and its pine-forests, many of them now cut down.
651 M. ♦Bonne Bay (1137 inhab. ; Mrs. Halfyard's House; comp.
p. 119), the terminus of our voyage, lies about 40 M. to the N. of the
Bay of Islands, and its scenery is considered by some even finer.
It has two long arms communicating with lakes at some distance
from the coast by means of their respective rivers.
d. From St. John's to Grigaet.
460 M. Steahbb *Portia^ of the Bowring Brothers Ooastal Hail Service,
every alternate Wed., reaching Origvei^ on the extreme N.E. coast of New-
fonndland, near Labrador, on the fifth day (fare $ 10.60.) This trip may be
recommended to those who are fond of the sea and not afraid of a little
rongh weather, as the scenery at many points is sublime, and the monot-
ony of the voyage is broken by many stoppages at interesting places.
After clearing St. John*s Narrows (p. 109), the steamer passes
Torhay Head {i^. Ill); Cape St, Francis, with its restless waves
116 Route 26, BAY OF TRINITY. Newfoundland,
breaking upon the ^Brandies*, as the outlying rooks are called ; the
mouth of Conception Bay (p. 119) ; the grim cliffs of Bcuicalieu Is-
landj the resort of myriads of sea-fowl ; and Orates Point, It then
enters the great ♦Bay of Trinity (comp. p. 120), 70 M. in length.
Touching at (47 M.) Old Perlican, it crosses to (68 M.) Trinity
(1459 inhah. ; Royal Oaks, Sea View, $ 1), which possesses one of
the finest harbours in the world and a whaling- industry.
Round the shores of Trinity Bay about 21,0S) people are clustered,
nearly all of them engaged in the fisheries. Many of them spend the sum-
mer in Labrador. The first Atlantic cable (1858) was landed at Bay of Bulls
Arm at the head of this bay (see p. 107); and the existing cables emerge
from the ocean at HearCs Content (p. 120), on its £. shore, after traversing
the great submarine plain of 1600 M. between Newfoundland and the coast
of Ireland. — Dildo Island formerly possessed a Government Hatchery for
the artificial propagation of cod.
The next call of the steamer is made at (87 M.) Catalina (1835
inhab.), a harbour of refuge at the N. entrance of Trinity Bay. —
We next reach Bonavista Bay (comp. p. 121), having around its shores
a population of 20,500. Much of the land is under culture. — 107 M.
Bonavista, its principal town (3696 inhab.), is a thriving place.
Most authorities hold that Bonavista was GaboVs 'Prima Vista' of '
1497 (comp. p. 105), though there is some evidence in favour of Gape
North, on Gape Breton Island, as his real land-fall.
116 M. Kings Cove (600 inhab.). — Beyond (148 M.) Greens-
pond (1353 inhab.), situated on an island with fine fishing-grounds
around it, the steamer*s course is shaped for (214 M.) Fogo (1118 in-
hab.), a harbour on an island of the same name, in Notre Dame
Bay (comp. p. 121). The prosperous town of (232 M.) Twilling ate
{^^Toulinguet^; 3542 inhab.), also on an island in Notre Dame Bay,
is next reached. — 249 M. Exploits (500 inhab.), near the mouth of
the Exploits River^ which is famous for its salmon (p. 121). —
260 M. PiUexfs Island is noted for its iron-pyrites mine, with ore of
fine quality. — We are now in the famous copper-mining region,
and extensive mining-operations are carried on at (293 M.) Little
Bay, (309 M.) BetVs Cove, and (317 M.) TUt Cove (1370 inhab.).
Proceeding on her N. route, the steamer now approaches an
important landmark : Cape St. John , the N. headland of Notre
Dame Bay and the N.E. boundary of the French Shore. Here we
glide along a vast wall of rock, 400-500 ft. high and 6 M. long, the
summits presenting every imaginable shape into which rocks can
be torn or sculptured. The points touched at between Cape St. John
and the N. end of the island are (349 M.) Coachman^ s Cove, (399 M.)
Conche, and (435 M.) St. Anthony. The last, with its fine harbonr,
contains a hospital and orphanage of the Royal National Mission to
Deep Sea Fishermen, a fox-farm, and some collections of local interest.
450 M. Origniet, the terminus of the voyage.
yGoogk
Newfoundland, BATTLE HARBOUR. 26, Route. 117
e. From St. Jolin's to Battle Harbour and the Coast of Labrador.
The Steameb ^Virginia Lake' of the Reid Newfoundland Go. runs fort-
nightly (in summer) from St. John's to (495 M.) Battle Harbour and various
Soints on the Labrador Ck)ast, going on some of her trips as far as Nattif
70 M. beyond Battle Harbour.
The fare is at the rate of $ 2.25 per day. A fortnight is required for
the trip to and from Nain (from St. John's), and the total cost is $ 38, in-
cluding stateroom and meals. The fine scenery and the invigorating at-
mosphere make this trip hi^ly enjoy A>le to those who do not object to
rough it a little. Bound trip, see B. 26 f.
From St. John's to Origuet, see R. 26 d. On most of her trips
between St. John's and Battle Harbour the *Virglnia Lake* calls
only at Harbour Grace (p. 120), Catalina (p. 116), King's Cove
(p. 116), TwUlingate (p. 116), and Tilt Cove (p. 116).
After leaving Tilt Cove and ronndlng Cape St, John (p. 116),
to the N. of Notre Dame Bay (p. 116), the steamer sails due N.
until, 10 M. beyond Griguet(p. 116), it passes Cape Bauld, the N.
extremity of Newfoundland — a dreary, desolate scene. Here, at
times, great processions of stately icebergs may be seen moving to
the S. through the Straits of Belle Isle (p. 3).
We now steer across the E. entrance of the straits, passing Belle Isle
(p. 3), a barren and desolate little island, 9 M. long and 3 M. broad.
Early mariners called it the '/«fe cf Demons*, imagining that they heard
here 'a great clamour of men's voices, confused and inarticulate, such as
you hear from a crowd at a fair or market-place*. The grinding of the
ice-floes and the crash of the lofty bergs duriug a gale would be quite
sufficient to give rise to these superstitious fancies.
Soon after passing Belle Isle the steamer reaches (495 M.)
Battle Harboar (ca. 100 inhab.), a sheltered roadstead on the coast
of Labrador (p. 3), between Battle Island and Great Caribou Island,
It is a great flshing-centre, and during theflshing-season it is crowded
-with boats and presents a very lively scene. The Deep Sea Mission
(see p. 116) has a settlement and hospital here.
The principal ports of call in Labrador beyond Battle Harbour
are Spear Harbour, Francis Harbour^ Square Island, Dead Island,
Venison Island, Bolster^s Bock, Punch Bowl, Sandy Islands, Bateau,
Domino, Indian TickUi, Grady, Long Island, Cartwright, Pack's
Harbour (a Hudson Bay Co.'s post), Indian Harbour, Smoky Tickle,
Emily Harbour, Rigolet (Hudson Bay Co.), Holton, Cape Harrison,
Long Tickle, Maggovick Mission Station, Tumavick, Hopedale, and
Nain (about 300 inhab.), the last two Moravian mission-stations.
The missionaries stationed here are Germans, but most of them speak
English. They willingly receive and entertain strangers. A fort-
night may be agreeably spent at Nain or Hopedale, awaiting the
return of the steamer. An opportunity is thus afforded of seeing
the Christianized Eskimo who live around these stations.
In the flshins-season there are on the Labrador coast some 20,000 per-
sons, many of them women and children, living in rude temporary huts
on shore or on board the fishing-crafts, exposed to great hardships and
t Tickle is a local name in Labrador for a narrow chani
Digitized by
tS'oogk
118 BouU2e. GRAND FALLS. Newfoundland.
perils. Many cases of sickness and accident occur, and these were at
one time very inadequately aided by the doctor of the mail -steamer.
The attention of the MUiicn to Deep Sea Fiehermen in England haring been
called to the condition of the Labrador fishermen, their mission-ship ^AJbert'
was sent there in 1892 in charge of Dr. Qrenfell. She returned in 1893, and
as a result of the mission two excellent hospitals have been established,
at Battle Harbour and Indian Harbour. A doctor and trained nurse are placed
in charge of each. In addition Dr. Grenfell cruises along the coast during
the fishing-season on the steam-ya9^t ^Strathcona* (the ^H of Sir Donald
Smith, now Lord Strathcona), ministering to the sick, relieving the poor with
donations of food and clothing, and carrying severe cases to the hospitals.
QsAND Falls. Rigolet (p. 117) is the only port of call for the steamer
in ffctmilion InUt^ which is 30 M. wide at its mouth, while its head is 150 M.
from the sea. Here Orand River^ which flows from the interior of Labrador,
discharges its waters. The ♦•C^rand Falls on this river were re-discovered
in 1891, by Messrs. Bryemty Kenaston. Careify and Crole (in two separate
expeditions), and they were again visited by Mr. A. P. Low* at the head
of an expedition of the Canadian Geological Survey, in 1894. The falls
present a most magnificent spectacle. The river leaps Irom a rocky plat-
form into a huge chasm. The roar is deafening and can be heard at a
distance of 20 H. An immense column of mist rises to a great height,
showing a beautiful rainbow. The height of the falls was found on accurate
measurement to be 316 ft. The canon into which the river plunges is 12 M.
in length, and below the falls the cliffs along its banks are 400^500 ft. high.
The banks gradually narrow above the falls, and where it makes its final
plunge the river is not more than 200 ft. in width. On reaching a pool
about 4 H. above the falls, the comparatively still river of the plateau
rushes down a descent of 200 ft. in a strone rapid, and below the falls it
descends 300 ft. more in similar fashion. Hence the total descent within
a few miles is 800 ft., while that from the rapids above the falls to the
sea is about 2000 ft. The first white man who saw these falls, in 1889,
was a Scotsman named McLean, an official of the Hudson Bay Company.
No one is known to have visited them in the interval, and the accounts of
them were considered mythical. Anyone wishing to ascend Hamilton Inlet
has occasional opportunity of doing so by means of a small steamer which
carries the mails to the Hudson Bay post at North West River and to the
lumber mills at Kenttnou River. The trip up the river from these places to
Grand Falls is at present only for the more venturesome, till a more prac-
ticable route is opened and present difficulties removed. But this can be
a question of a short time only, and Grand Falls wiU doubtless become the
chief objective point on the Labrador Coast. See Mr. Low's Beport (18^.
Rigolet (p. 117) was the starting-point of the ill-fated expedition con-
sisting of Leonidas ffubbard, assistant editor of 'Outing\ A. DUlon Wallace^
a New York lawver, and George Elson. an Indian guide, which staited out in
the summer of 1903 (inadequately equipped according to experienced hunters
and trappers of the country) to explore the interior of Labrador. It resulted
in the death of Hr. Hubbard from starvation on Oct. 18th. See 'The Lure of
the Labrador Wild', by Mr. Wallace, the survivor. Mrs. JSTaftftard, widow of the
explorer, led another expedition to Labrador in 1905, in which she succeeded
in her purpose of showing that her husband's scheme was entirely feasible.
f. From St. John's to Battle Harboar vi& Bay of Islands.
87678 M. Beid 17BWF0UNDLAND COMPANY Bailwat to (841/2 M.) Pkxcentia
in 4Vs-5V2 hrs. The Steameb *Glencob' of the same company leaves
Placentia every Sat. for (806 M.) Port-aux-Basqws, citing at intermediate
ports (3V2-4 days ; return-steamer on Wed.). From Port-aux-Basques to (144 M.)
Bay of Islands y B.N. Co. Bailwat in 7 hrs. From Bay of Islands the
Stbambb 'Homs' of the came company leaves every Wed. on arrival of
trains from St. John's and Port-aux-Basques for (842 M.) Battle Haftour, in
8yr4 days. The return -steamer is due at Bay of Islands on Tues. night.
The round trip takes about 15 days, if continuous (through single fare,
1st class, ^24.BQ). v a --• -,
Digitized by V
ids on Tues. night,
tirough single fare, i
y Google I
New/bundland, PORT SAUNDERS. 26. Route. 119
By this, the so-called Western RouU^ connection may be made at Battle
Harbour with the steamer 'Virginia Lake", either for the coast of Labrador
or retoming down the E. coast to St. John^s (see B. 26e), thus completing
the round of the island. The round trip in this case takes about 12 days,
if continuous (return- fare $ 39.30). The vessels are strongly built and well
officered; the food and accommodation are good.
From St. John's to (641/2 M.) Placmtia Junction and (841/2 M.)
Placentia^ see R. 26 g.
From Placentia to (306 M.)Por<-aux- Basques by steamer,see R. 26o.
From Port-anx-Basques to (144 M.) Bay of Islands by railway,
see R. 26 g.
After leaving Bay of Islands (or more properly the Humber
Month) the steamer calls at (4 M.) Curling (p. 122), which is the
best place to embark. Sailing to the N., the first place of call is
(40 M ) Bonne Bay (p. 116).
Beyond Bonne Bay the steamer still steers to ♦he N. 120 M.
Port Saunders , in Ingornachoix Bay^ is of interest to sportsmen.
Near it is Hawke Bay, with the large private cabin of Mr. Pratt of
New York ('The Firs').
Above Ingornachoix Bay calls are made at (160 M.) Bartleit's
Harbour, (168 M.) BHg Bay, (176 M.) Current Island, (211 M.)
Salmon River, (21 4 M.) Bonne Espirance, (222 M.) Middle Bay,
and (236 M.) Flower Cove, on the Newfoundland coast. The steamer
now crosses the StraiU of Belle Isle (pp. 3 and 117) to (244 M.)
Blanc Sdblon, on the mainland, at the boundary between Quebec
and Labrador.
Sailing to the N.E. through the Straits of Belle Isle, with their
succession of maritime pictures, the steamer touches at (263 M.)
Forteau, (269 M.) Lance au Loup, (279 M.) West 8t, Modeste,
(291 M.) Red Bay, (321 M.) Chdteau, and r331 M.) Chimney TickU,
on the N. side of the straits. Rounding (336 M.) Cape St. Charles
it finally enters (342 M.) Battle Harboar (comp. p. 117).
g. From St. John's to Fort-anx-Basqaes.
Harbour Grace. Plaoentia.
648 M. RaiD Newfodndland Oompamt Railway in 28 hrs. (fares $ 14,
$ 8; return-fare $ 24 j sleeper $3). — This railway, forming the grand trunk
line of Newfoundland , was completed and opened for traffic in 1898. It
opens np the most important farming, lumbering, and mining districts of
the island, and forms the final link in the main travel-route between New-
fonndland and the American Continent. Its W. terminus, Port-aux-Basquet^
is connected with the Canadian railway system at (90 M.) North Sydney (p. 68)
by the steamer 'j^rvce', which performs the passage across the Cabot Strait
thrice weekly in 6 hrs. (fares $ 3.6, $ 2.6). This steamer is specially built
to cope with ice, and has succeeded in keeping the communication open
throoghout the winter. By this route Halifax is 45 hrs., Montreal 68 hrs.,
Boston 72 hrs., and New York 77 hrs. from St. John's.
The railway-station is at the W. end of St. John's (p. 109). The
train runs at first towards the W. and soon reaches the shore of
^Conception Bay, which it skirts towards the S.W. (•Views to the
right). A remarkable deposit of brown hematite iron^ore has re-
Digitized by VjOOQIC
120 Route 26. HARBOUR GRACE. Newfoundland,
cently been discovered on BeU Isle (6 M. long), in tMs bay, and is
now being shipped at tbe rate of 15,000 tons daily to snpply the
Dominion Iron ^ Steel Co. and the Nova Scotia Steel ^ Coal Co, at
the Sydneys. — 15 M. Topsaily a pretty village with comfortable
boarding-houses, is a favourite summer and bathing resort and has
been somewhat ambitiously styled the ^Brighton of Newfoundland*.
— 18 M. ManuelSf with a fine beach, is also a popular holiday-
resort. A deposit of talc has recently been discovered in the vicinity,
an aerial tramway has been built, and the first shipment was made
to the American market in 1904. — 22 M. Kelligrews is another
favourite place of outing for the people of St. John's^ 27 M. Seal
Cove. — 33 M. Holyrood, at the head of the bay, presents some
striking scenery, especially in the sea-arms.
Holyrood is about 15 M. from the SalmonUr River^ in which good sal
mon-fishing is sometimes obtained.
The line now runs inland. 39 M. Avond'ale. — 44 M. Brigw
Junction is the starting-point of the branch-line to Harboai Grace
and Carbonear (see below). - .
Fboh Bbigus Junction to Gabbonbab, 38 M., railway in jiys hrs. (from
St. John's in 41/2 hrs.; through-fares $ 2.45, $1.70). The line runs towards
the N. — 11 M. Brigtu (Cabot Ho., $ 1), a thriving little seaport with (1901)
1162inhab.; ITVx M. Clark's Beach; 211/2 M. Bay Roberts; 24 M. JS^aniard's
Bay; 26Vs M. TiUon (see below).
31 Vs M. Harbour Grace iOordon Lodge, Cochrane Ho,, $ ii/s), the second
town of the island, with (1901) 5184 inhab., is a clean, well-built little place,
finely situated on the W. shore of Conception Bay. It carries on a large
trade. The handsome Roman Catholic Cathedral, destroyed by fire some
years ago, has been rebuilt. — 88 M. Carbonear (8708 inhab.).
Fbom Cabbonbab to Clabenvillb, 148 M. (fare $3.80). The steamer
'Ethie' of the Reid Newfoundland Go. connects at CSarbonear every Tues.
and Sat. with trains from St. John's and runs to ports in Trinity Bay.
The steamer first calls at (13 M.) Western Bay (1000 inhab.) and (25 H.) Bay
de Verde in Conception Bay, and then crosses the mouth of Trinity Bay
to (55 M.) Catalina (p. 117). Here it turns to the S. and steers along the
W. coast of Trinity Bav to (76 M.) Trinity (see p. 116), New Bonaventure (^lA.),
British Harbour (93 M.), and (lOS M.) Britannia Cove^ with noted slate-
<iuarries. It then steers through Bmith Sound, to the N. of Random Island.
180 H. Fox Harbour; 136 M. Hickman's Harbour. — 148 M. Clarenville lies
on the railway (see p. 121), opposite the W. side of Bandom Island.
On its return-trip from Clarenville (Mon. & Frid.) the steamer crosses
Trinity Bay to Heart's Content (1075 inhab.), which lies on the E. shore,
and is now world-famous as the W. terminus of the Anglo-American Co.'s
cables. The officials here are most courteous and attentive to strangers and
ready to explain all the mysteries of telegraphy. — This place may also
be reached by a pleasant drive (11-18 M.) from Harbour Grace or Carbonear
(see above).
57 M. Whitboume Junction fhotel), for another branch-line to
Harbour Grace, passing (10 M.) Broad Cove (p. 112) and connecting
with the branch described above at (22 M.) TiUon.
At (64i/2 M.) Placentia Junction diverges the branch -line to
(20 M.) Placentia (through-fares from St. John's $ 2.50, $ 2, $ 1.70).
This line runs to the 8.W. past (12 M.) Ville MatHe.
Placentia {Bradshaw^s Inn, $1, unpretending, but clean and comfort-
able), a quaint little town with 1300 inhab., on the bay of its own name
(comp. p. 114), was founded and fortified by the French, in 1660 and held
Digitized by VjOOQIC
Newfoundland, NOTRE DAME BAY. 26. Route. 121
by them till 1713 (comp. p. 106). It lies on a shingly beach and is sur-
rounded by exquisite scenery, especially along the arms of the sea, one of
which runs 10 M. inland. In July they abound in sea-trout of the finest
quality. The remains of the Oldest Protestant Church (Ch. of England) in
the island are here, but in a most dilapidated condition. It contains a
handsome silver communion-service presented to it by William IV., who
visited Placentia when a midshipman. On one of its old Tombstones is
an inscription in the Basque language, the Basques having been among the
earliest fishermen on the coast (comp. p. 105). — The old Court House is
close to the church'. Other objects of interest are Castle Hilly with remains
of the French fortifications} Point Verde (SM.)} and Lily White Pond (5 M.),
famous for its trout.
Placentia Bay. The steamer lArgyle' of the Beid Newfoundland Co.
plies on Placentia Bay, leaving Placentia every Mon. on the arrival of the
train from St. John's, for all points on the inner bay, and every Wed.,
on the arrival of the train, for all points on the outer bay.
The steamer *Prospero' leaves Placentia every Wed. ^p. 114) and the
*Glencoe' every Sat. (p. 118) for Port-aux-Basques (p. 115).
Beyond Placentia Junction the train luns tluougli a wild, lugged
district, traversing the narrow isthmns that connects the peninsula
of Avalon with the main body of the Island. 82 M. Tickle Harbour;
90 M. Rantem; 92 M. La Manche ;iOi M. Amold^s Cove; 105 M.
Come-by-Chance j 118 M. Northern Bight; 133 M. Clwrenville (steamer
to Hearths Content and Carbonear, see p. 120); 136 M. Shoal Hot-
bour; 145 M. Thorbum Lake. — At (153 M.) Port Bland ford, where
good sea-bathing and salmon and trout Ashing may be obtained, the
scenery improves.
The steamer ^Dundee' of the Beid Newfoundland Oo. connects at Port
Blandford with trains from St. John's and Port-aux-Basques every Mon. and
Frid. and makes a coipplete cir cuit of the beautiful Bonavista Bay (comp.
p. 116), calling at 21 ports, and taking about 3 days for the trip.
166 M. Terra Nova (Stone's, $ 1 Vl)) <>'i * 1*^^® of the same name,
is one of the best hunting-resorts in Newfoundland, while the Terra
Nova River is noted for its salmon (touring parties must take their
own outfits with them). 183 M. Alexander Bay. — At (191 M.)
Qanibo (Gambo Hotel), the centre of another good hunting-district,
we cross the fine river of that name by a steel bridge. The river con-
tains excellent trout, while Lake Qambo is famous for its land-locked
salmon. — 206 M. Benton, — At (233 M.) Olenwood the train cros-
ses the Oander River. To the S. lies Oander Lake, a fine sheet of
water 33 M. long, on which good boating may be had. It is sur-
rounded by dense forests, in which much lumbering is done. — From
(247 M.) Notre Dame Junction a branch-line runs to the N. to (9M.)
Lewisporte (350 inhab. ; Somerset Ho., Lewisporte Ho., primitive).
At Lewisporte the train connects with the steamer 'Clyde' of the Reid
Newfoundland Co. for the trip round Notre Bame Bay (comp. p. 116).
The steamer leaves every Mon. for the S. side, returning every Wed. 5 and
leaves every Frid. for the N. side, returning every Sunday. This is one
of the most beautiful trips in Newfoundland. The steamer winds in and
out among the hundreds of islands that fill the bay, affording a fine pano-
rama of picturesque fshing-villages and majestic coastal scenery. Ther
are numerous points of call.
256 M. Exploit8j on the Exploits River, the longest in the island
(200 m.; comp. p. 116). The lino now follows the v^ey of this
Digitized by VjOOQIC
122 Route 26. GRAND LAKE. Newfoundland.
river, whicli contains much useful timl)er and large tracts of good
arable land. The scenery is attractive , and beautiful wild-flowers
flank the railway. — 269 M. Bishop's Falls; 284 M. Rushy Pond;
296 M. Badger Brook. — From (312 M.) MUlertown Junction a
branch-railway runs to (14 M.) Millertowny with the mills of the
Harmsworth Pulp Co,, belonging to the well-known London news-
paper owners. — 317 M. 8t, Patrick's Brook is a famous hunting-
resort. In this vicinity the caribou in migrating cross the railway,
going S. in Sept. and N. in May. — 324 M. West Brook, The train
now leaves the Exploits River Valley. — At (336 M.) Oaff Topsail
(1700 ft.) we reach the highest point of the line, on the watershed
between the Exploits and Grand Lake. The so-called ^Topsails^ are
three singular granitic eminences springing from the level plateau.
Granite boulders strew the ground , and granite-quarries are worked
here. — The train now follows Kitty's Brook and soon enters the
spacious Humber Valley j which contains much fertile land and
large deposits of marble. The scenery is also very fine. At places
the river is lined by cliffs of marble and limestone, several hundred
feet high. For the next 100 M. or so scarcely a house is seen from
the train. Indeed this paucity of houses is characteristic of nearly
the whole line, the explanation being that the settlements of New-
foundland are nearly all on the coast and that the railway has been
built, not to meet the wants of a settled population, but to open up
the interior of the island for industrial enterprise.
365 M. Orand Lake Station, a coal-mining point, lie son *Orand
Lake, a fine sheet of water, 56 M. long and 6-6 M. wide, with an
island, .22 M. long, in its centre. There is a good sportsman's hotel
here. Numerous cascades descend into the lake from the densely-
wooded shores and from the island. Deer abound in the plateaux
overlooking the lake and in the neighbouring White HiU Plains. —
376 M. Deer Lake Station (no house), where sportsmen leave the
train for fishing and hunting on the upper Humber River, the
entrance to which can be seen on the opposite side of the lake. The
first pool sought is that below the (20 M.) Orand Falls, Leaving
Deer Lake Station, the train runs along the banks of the ^Lower
Humber Rivet, For the next 14 M. it broadens almost into a lake,
with foliage-laden banks, and then for an equal distance rushes
through a deep defile, with scarred and treeless cliffs towering many
hundred feet in grim majesty.
The Humber discharges its waters into the Gulf of St. Lawrence
at (404 M.) Bay of Islands, or, more properly, Humber Mouth
(comp. p. 115), the former name belonging by rights to the entire
district. Here the steamer 'Home* of the Reid Newfoundland Co.
leaves every Wed., on the arrival of the train, for Battle Harbour
(pp. 117, 119), connecting there with the steamer * Virginia Lake*
for the coast of Labrador or for the E. coast route to St. John's
(R. 26e). — 408 M. Curling or Birchy Cove (Mrs. Petrie, $ li/a) a
Newfoundland. SPRUCE BROOK. Q6. Route. 123
beautifal spot witli a brancli of tlie Bank of Montreal. A good hotel
is mucli needed for snmmer-Tisitors.
Bay of Islands and Bonne Bay are destined to be the chief tourist
resorts of the W. coast of Newfoundland on account of their beautiful
scenery, which has been characterized as the finest in North America.
The railway between the Humber Mouth and Port-aux-Basques also makes
accessible more good salmon and trout fishing streams than can probably
be found in the same distance anywhere else in the world.
A valuable deposit of slate has been found at Bay of Islands, and is
now being shipped to England. There are similar deposits in Trinity Bay,
Bonavista Bay, and Placentia Bay.
427 M. Howards, in a mining-district. — 430 M. Spruce Brook
(♦Log Cabin Hotel, $ 21/2, with tennis conrts, canoeing, boating,
flsbing, etc.). The charming rustic hotel here is much frequented
by tourists with ladies in their party. It is situated near 8t, George's
Lake, a beautiful sheet of water about 8 M. long by 2-3 M. wide,
surrounded by high and timber-covered hills. The next station
(439 M.) Harry's Brook, also has excellent salmon-fishing. — 453 M.
Stephenville is the point of departure by water for Sandy Point, the
centre of the great herring-fishery of Bay St, George (comp. p. 116).
This fine bay, a favourite summer-resort, is adjoined by deposits of
coal, lead, iron, gypsum, and asbestos. — The railway crosses the
head of the bay to (460 M.) St George's (*St. George's Hotel, $ 2,
resembling the Spruce Brook Log Cabin; Nandini's, $ 1, for sports-
men), with bathing, boating, fishing, and golfing. Three rivers
unite here and empty into Bay St. George : Harry's Brook, Bottom
Brook, and Southwest Brook, all excellent salmon -streams. The
bay may still be seen from the railway, which now in places passes
over a flat and treeless waste of sand-dunes. — At (474 M.) Fishel^s
the train enters a section known as *The Rivers on account of
the many streams that traverse it. 481 M. Robinson^ s. — 486 M.
00665 (farm-house). The Crabbs River has splendid salmon and
trout fishing. There are good roads and fine Highland scenery in
the vicinity. — 504 M. North Branch and (513 M.) South Branch
are the stations for the Grand River Codroy, a fine stream about
35 M. long, with good salmon - fishlufe in the early season (June
15th-July 16th). The train now runs behind the Anguille Hills.
523 M. Doyle's, a favourite resort for sportsmen. At (528 M.) Little
Bivcr (Tompkins, $174) excellent salmon and trout fishing may be
had from June 15th till the end of tbe season on the Little Codroy,
a favourite river with American anglers. We next traverse several
miles of rocky barrens.
548 m. Port-aux-Basques, see p. 116. Steamer to North Sydney,
see p. 119. Steamers to Placentia, see R. 26 c and R. 26f ; to Bonne
Bay, see R. 26c.
yGoogk
124
27. St. Pierre and Miqnelon.
A steamer of the SociiU St. Pierraise dt NavigaHon h Vapeur and
the 'St. Pierre Hiquelon^ of the Plant Line ply fortnightly from Halifax to
the French islands of St, Pierre and Iffquelon. taking aboat 2 days to the
voyage (fare $12). The steamers rnn to Sydney throngh the Br<u d*Or
Lakes by the route described at pp. 63-67, except when prevented by ice,
and cross thence to St. Pierre^ a distance of about 100 M.
Tlie Islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon, ceded by Great Britain to
France as a shelter for her fishermen hy the Treaty of Paris (1763)
and now the only lelics of the once great French empire In Ameiica*,
are situated at the month of Fortune Bay (p. 114), about 10 M.
from the peninsula of Burin (p. 114), the nearest part of Newfound-
land, and about equidistant (135 M.) from Cape Race (p. 113) and
Cape Ray (p. 115). Great Miquelon Island^ about 12 M. long, is
connected by a sandy isthmus with Little Miquelon or Langlade Is-
land^ which is about the same size. The island of iSf*. Pierr^is much
smaller, being only about 4 M. in diameter, but it is much the
more important of the two, containing the capital and the only good
harbour. The two islands, which contained in 1902 a resident pop-
ulation of 6482, of whom about 5900 were in St. Pierre, were of
immense importance to France as the station from which she carried
on her fisheries on the Banks of Newfoundland. The fisheries along
the so-called French Shore (p. 108) have, however, dwindled till
they are now visited only by 8-10 French vessels in the course of
the year, while, since the bait-selling regulations (see p. 108), the
Banks fishery has also been practically ruined for the present. The
export of cod from the islands in 1905 amounted to 13,027 tons
(metric); the number of fishermen employed fell from 3178 in 1903
to 1900 in 1906. The fisheries are supported by large bounties.
Vegetation on the islands is of the poorest description, only a few
garden vegetables being grown. Dense fogs prevail in summer and
often hang over the islands for days together.
The town of St. Pierre (Hotel Joinville, $2; Pension Co$te,
$ 1 V2, weU spoken ofj British Consul, Mr, Arthur W, W.Woodhouse),
which lies on the E. side of the island, is the seat of the Governor
of the Islands and is the landing-place of two transatlantic cables.
During the fishing-season it presents a very busy aspect, its road-
stead often containing scores of fishing - vessels , while hundreds
of fishermen are temporarily added to its small population. The
chief buildings are the Governor's House j the Court of Justice^ the
large Church and Convent, the Hospital^ and the Schools. Altogether,
the little town is unique in character, and the visitor will find much
to Interest him in it and in the customs and manners of the fishermen
who frequent it. He may either return by the same steamer after
3 days or wait 17 days for the next one.
yGoogk
Y. QUEBEC.
Route Page
28. Montreal 125
Environs of Montreal 138
29. From Montreal to Quebec 139
a. Vi& tlie Canadian Pacific Railway (N. Shore of the
St. Lawrence) 139
Shawenegan Falls 140
b. Via the Intercolonial RaUway (S. Shore of the
St. Lawrence) 140
c. Via the Grand Trunk Railway (S. Shore of the
St. Lawrence) 141
d. Via the Canadian Northern Quebec Railway . . 142
From Joliette to Hawkesbury 142
e. Via the St. Lawrence 142
Abenakifl Springs 143
From Sorel up the Ricbelieu River to Cbambly 143
30. Quebec 145
31. Excursions from Quebec 157
a. L^vis 157
b. Isle of Orleans 167
c. Falls of Montmorency and Ste. Anne de Beaupr^ 158
d. Lorette. Charlesbourg. Lake Beanport. Lake St
Charles 160
32. From Quebec to Lake St. John and Chicoutimi . . .161
Chateau Bigot 162
Falls of Lorette 162
Laurentides National Park 168
Grand Discharge. Ouiatcbouan Fallfl. Pointe Bleue 166
From the Island House to Chicoutimi by River . 165
33. From Quebec to Chicoutimi. The Saguenay .... 166
Excursions from Murray Bay 168
Cacouna . 168
28. Montreal.
Railway Stations. Bonaventure Station (PI. D, 6, 7), St. James St., for
trains of the Grand Trunk Railway, Intercolonial Railway, Central Ver*
mont R.R., Delaware A Hudson R.R., etc. : Windsor Street Station (PI. C, 6),
Windsor St., the chief station of the Canadian Pacific Railway, also used
by the Adirondack line of the New York Central R. R. (p. 16); Viger Square
Station (PI. E, F, 4), on the E. side of the city, for the Quebec. Ottawa,
and N. local trains of the C. P. R. — Steamers, see p. 126. — Cabs, see
p. 126. The omnibuses of the chief hotels meet the trains and steamers
(fare 26 c).
Hotels. •Windsor (PI. a; C, 6), excellently situated in Dominion
Square, with 800 beds, $ 3V«-5 (extension in progress, with rooms on the
European plan); •Place Vigeb Hotel (PI. f; E, 8), Viger Sq., owned by
t«he 0. P. R., $3-5,*R. from 311/2; 'St. Lawrence Hall rPl^j; D, E, 5),
Digitized by dC)OQlC
126 Route 28. MONTREAL.
St. James St., recently enlarged and improved, good cuisine, $2Vt-4, R.
from $ 1 i Corona (PI. d-, B, 7). 468 Guy St., adjoining His Majesty's Theatre,
B. from $1, with bath from $2, well spoken of; Qubbn's Hotbl (PI. c,
D, 6), cor. of Windsor St. and St. James St., opposite the Bonaventure
Station, commercial, $ 2Vs-3Vs-) Cabslakb Hotel, St. James St., opp. the
Bonaventure Station , commercial, R. from $ 1 ; St. James Hotel (PI. h ;
D, 6), opp. the Bonaventure Station, $2-8, B. from $1, commercial; Albion
(PI. i; E, 6), Ul McGill St., $2-2V2. — Boarding Houses ($6-10 a week):
Mrs Richardson^ 28 HcGill College Ave.; Llewelyn Hotel, 17 McGill College
Ave. ; Y. W. C. A.^ opposite the Windsor Hotel (for ladies, from $lVi); Mrs.
Benoit^ iSVz Osborne St., $1; Mrs. Squire^ Mrs. Evam^ 8i0 £ 897 Dorchester
St. — Lodgings are also easily procured.
Restaurants. Bodega^ i7« Kotre Dame St. (good wines) ; Freeman^ 154
St. James St. ; C. M. Alexander^ 219 St. James St ; John F. AUxand«r^ 2368
St. Catherine St.: Oxford Cafi^ 36 University St. ; DaviUy 188 St. Peter St.;
GriU Rooms of *at. Latorence and Windsor Hotels (p. 125); Corona Ifota, see
above ; at Morgan" s^ the John Murphy Co.^ and other departmental stores ;
at the railway-stations.
Sleetrio Tramways traverse tlie city in various directions, and ex-
tend to Mount Royal (p. 186), to (i/s hr.) Summerlea (Lachine; pp. 188,
280), and to various other points in the Island of Montreal. Fare D e. (six
tickets 25 c.), to the extra-mural points 10 c, to Lachine 15 c, to Bout de
risle 25 c.
Oabs (good and cheap). With one horse, 1-2 pers. for >/« hr. ^ c. >^ hr.
40 c, 1 hr. 75 c, each hr. addit. 60 c.; 84 pers. 40 c. 60 c, $1, 75 c.
With two horses : 1-2 pers., 50 c, 65 c, $ 1; 3-4 pers., 65 c, 75 c, $ 1.25.
Trunk 10 c. ; small articles free. Double fares from midnight to 4 am.
The cabmen of the Montreal Hackmen's Union (identified by but^n with
M. H. U.) may be recommended.
Observation Oars start from the Windsor Hotel daily in summer at
10 a.m. and 2 p.m., visiting the chief sights of the city and encircling Mt.
Royal (2 hrs. ; fare 50 c).
Steamers. 1. Steam Febsies ply at frequent intervals to 8t. Helen" s Is-
land (p. 137), 8t. Lambert (pp. 14, 18S), Longueuil (p. 188), and Laprairie (p. 138).
— 2. RivEB Steamebs, belonging to the Richelieu A Ontario Ifavigation Co.
(228 St. Paul St.), the Ottawa Co. (161 Common St.), and other lines, ply
regularly from Montreal up or down the St. Lawrence to Quebec (see R. 29 e),
Three Rivers (p. 139), the Saguenay (R. 83), Beauhamois (p. 122), Cornwall
(p. 229), Kingston (R. 47), Toronto (p. 188), and other ports ; up the Ottawa
to Carillon (p. 185) and Ottawa (p. 176); to ports on the rivers Richelieu
(p. 143) and Yamaska (p. 141), etc. — 3. Labgeb Steamebs run to Char-
lottetoton^ Pietou^ and Bt. John's (Newfoundland), and to other ports in
Gasptf, the Bale des Chaleurs, the Gulf of St. Lawrence , Prince £dward
Island, and Cape Breton (Quebec Steamship Line, etc.). — 4. Ocean Steamebs
run to Liverpool (Allan Line, Dominion Line, C. P. R. Atlantic 8. 8. Line,
etc. ; comp. R. 1 a), to Glasgow (Allan Line ; comp. R. 1 c), to London^ to
Bristol, to Hamburg, to Antwerp, and to other transatlantic ports.
Amusements. His Majesty" s Theatre (PI. B, 7), Guy St., the chief theatre
of Montreal, seats from 25 c. to $lVs) Thidtre des NowvauUs (PL D, 4),
1861 St. Catherine St. (well-acted modern French plays): Academy of Music
(PL 2; C, 5), Victoria St. ; TMdtre Frangais (PL D, 4), 1889 St. Catherine St. ;
Theatre Royal (PI. D, 5), Cotd St., 10-50c. — Arena^ St. Catherine Si, cor.
of Wood Ave., for concerts, light opera, sports, etc. ; Victoria Hall, Drum-
mond St., for concerts ; i/bnutnent National (Pi. H, A), 218 St. Lawrence Boule-
vard, for concerts and entertainments ; Stanley Hall, 96 Stanley St., behind
the Windsor Hotel. — Sohmer Park (PI. F, 3), in Hotre Dame St., on the
bank of the river, a sort of ^al fresco* music hall, with variety-entertain-
ments (adm. 10 c, menagerie 10c. extra); Dominion Park at Longue Pointe
(p. 143), a similar resort (both reached by electric car, fare 5c.). — Con-
certs are given by the Montreal OratoHo Society and the PMlharmonie.
Society. — Crystal Slating Rink (PI. C, 7), Dorchester St.; PHnce Arthur
Skating Rink (PI. B, 3), Duluth Ave.; Stadium Skating Rink (PI. C, *X), 805 St.
Hubert St. — Tobogganing is exgoyed in winter at the Park Slide (^l. A, 6),
Digitized byCjOO^lC
yGoogk
MONTREAL. 28, Route, 127
I the W. slope of Mt. Royal Park. — Lacroue^ the Canadian national gan^e
>nip. p. Iviii), may be well seen at the grounds of the Montreal Amateur
%letie Auociatiim ^1. B, 6) or of the Bhamroek Club (matches usnally on
i. in summer and autumn). — Caledonian Curling Rink^ Burnside Place ^
istle Curling Rink, Ste. Honique St. (PI. C, D. Q)\ Montreal CurUng Club,
Bt. Luke St. — The Montreal Snow Shoe Club (^Tuque Bleue*) gives torch-
It parades in winter from McGill College Gates to Outremont (pictur-
ue blanket uniform). Other snowshoe clubs are Lt Montagnard (the
if French snowshoe club), St, Oeorge't (with a good club-house on the
intain), Argyle, and Holly. — Yachting and Boating are carried on on
ISt. Lawrence at Longueuil (p. 138), Ste, Anne (p. 185). Laehine (p. 280),
\ and there are also clubs for Cricket, Oolf (grounds at Laehine, St.
Hibert, Dixie, Outremont, etc.), Football, Hockey, Bicycling, Tenni; etc. —
\ Montreal Hunt claims to be the best in America (meets thrice weekly
6ept.-Dec.; wild fox). The fine Kennel* of the club are on the Cote
Catherine Boad, Notre Dame des Neiges. The Canadian Hunt Club has
headquarters at Slocum Lodge, opposite St. Lambert (p. 14). — Horse
inff is carried on, in summer and autumn, at the Behritnier Park and
Bei-Air Racecourse, both reached by railway.
Exhibitions of Paintings are held in the Art Oallery (p. 134). Among
i best priTate collections are those of Lord Strathcona, Sir W, C, Vam
me^ Mr. R. B, Angus, Mr. James Ross, and Sir George Drummond,
Newspapers. The following are among tbe chief papers published at
Utreal. English : The Oazette, founded in 1777 and published continuously
Be ±196, is the oldest still existing paper in Canada (Conservative; 2 c.) ;
t Herald (Liberal ^ 1 c); The Star (Ic); The Witness (Ic.) ; The True
tness (Irish and Home Rule; 5 c). French: La Patrie (Lib.; 1 c); Le
tada (Lib. ; ic)\ La Presse (Con. ; 1 c.) ; VAurore (French Prot. weekly ;
fe.). — Numerous weekly, monthly, and quarterly periodicals are also
fblished in both languages.
Olnbs. Mt. Royal (PI. B, 6), Sherbrooke St., cor. Stanley St. -, St. James
I. 8& C, 6), 831 Dorchester St.; St Denis Club, 88 St. Denis St.; Canada
lb, in Board of Trade Building (p. 187); Montreal Club, Canadian Pacific
legraph Building; Club Canadien de Montreal^ 350 Lagaucheti^re St. —
>ntreal Amateur Athletic Association^ 260 Peel St. (PI. B, 6), with gym-
lium, library, etc. (strangers admitted for one week on introduction by
member); grounds, with cinder-track and club-house, on St. Catherine
West (comp. above). — National Amateur Athletic Association (French),
th grounds in Ontario St. East (sec, L^onBoUand, 6 St. Vincent St.).—
rest is Stream Country Chib, on Lake St. Louis, at Dorval (p. 186).
Oonsnls. U. 8. Consul-General, Major Church Hou>e, 260 St. James St. ;
leneh Consul-General, Mr. Dallemagne; German Consul, Mr. Franksen.
Fur Shops. Henderson, Robertson, St. J&mta 8%. (Nos. 229 Jk 283); Samuel,
, Catherine St.; Desjardins (French), 1533 St. Catherine St. — AX 'Our
wulicrafte Shop\ belonging to the Canadian Handicraft OuUd, may be
irchased specimens bf Habitant, Doukhobor, Galician, and Indian work.
, Photographs of Canadian scenery, etc, may be obtained of William Not-
N> A Son, Birks Building, Phillips Square, opposite the English Cathedral,
I at the Windsor Hotel.
Baths. Turkish Baths, 140 Ste. Honique St. (Turkish bath $ 1 ; plunge
swimming bath 25 c.); Mt. Royal Sanatorium, 45 Metcalfe St., opposite
indsor Hotel (Turkish, electric, and other bath.4); Laurentian Baths,
1-210 Craig St. ; plunge baths at the Y. M, C. A. Building (p. 133), Dominion
Ix^oimiridng Baths on St. Helen's Island.
Post Office (PI. £, 5), St. James St., open 7.30-7 (mails to Great Brit-
four times weekly, to the United States twice daily ; comp. p. xxi). —
egraph Offices. Great Northwestern Telegraph Co., 6 St Sacrament St.;
adian Pcieific Railway Co.''s Telegraph, 4 Hospital St a, both with many
ach-offices. — Bell Telephone Co., 1760 Notre Dame St. — Dominion
>ress (h., 187 St. James St ; American Express Co., National Express Co.,
1 Canadian Express Co., all at 94 McGill St. (G.T.R. BuildingjI j
128 Route 28. MONTREAL. SUuation.
Tourist In/ormaaon Bureau (of the ^Montreal Biuiness Men's Lea{g:ue'),
Leeming-Hiles Bailding, St. Lawrence Boulevard, near Notre Dame 8t.
The Streets of Montreal are supposed to have both the English and
French forms of their names at the comers generally the French in the
E. part of the town and the English in the w.). The streets running E.
and W. are distinguished as ^Weit' or *East' with reference to St. Lawrence
Boulevard, where the numbering begins. [As this, however, is a very re-
cent innovation, the old numbers of the houses are still partly in use.]
Principal Attractions. ^Notrt Dame Church; 8t. Jameses Cathedral;
EngUsh Cathedral; * Mount Royal Park, with •View, ^'Hdtel Dieu; Gr«y
Nunnery; Chdteau de Ramezay; Botuecours Market; Art Gallery; Natural
History Museum; Fraser Institute; McOill University^ with Redpath Museum;
Board of Trade; Bank of Montreal; ''Victoria Bridge.
Montreal {i^lit,\ the largest city and chief commercial centre of
the Dominion of Canada, is situated on the S.E. side of the triangular
island of the same name, formed by two of the branches into which the
Ottawa divides as it flows into the St. Lawrence. The island is about
30 M. long and 7-10 M. wide. The city, which covers an area 41/2 M.
long and 2 M. wide, is built upon a series of gently-sloping terraces,
culminating, 2 M. from the river, in the hill of Mont Rial or Mt. Roy at
(900 ft above the sea), from which it derives its name. It is about
400 M. from New York, 980 M. from the Straits of Belle Isle (p. 103),
and 2750 M. from Liverpool (300 M. nearer than New York). Though
not even the capital of its own province (Quebec), Montreal exer-
cises great political influence , and it is the seat of the chief banks,
trading corporations, universities, hospitals, convents, and seminaries
of Canada. In 1901 Montreal contained 267,730 inhab., an increase
of 20 per cent over 1891. More than half were of French extraction,
one -sixth Irish, one -seventh English, and one - thirteenth Scottish.
About three-fourths of the population are Roman Catholics. With its
suburbs, it now contains at least 350,000 people. The French mainly
occupy the E. quarters of the city, the dividing line being St. Law-
rence Boulevard. The streets in the lower part of the town are ir-
regular, narrow, and dingy, but those of the upper part are broad
and well-built. The chief business- streets, with the best shops, are
Notre Dame Street^ St. James Street, and St. Catherine Street, all run-
ning parallel with the River St. Lawrence ; the streets immediately ad-
joining the river are also the scene of great bustle and activity. The
handsomest residences are in the N.W. part of the city, adjoining the
slopes of Mt Royal. Most of the public edifices and many of the
private residences are built of a fine grey limestone, quarried in the
neighbourhood. The climate of Montreal is warm in summer and
cold in winter, the thermometer often marking 80** Fahr. in the
former, and sometimes, though not often, descending to 20** below
zero in the latter. The mean annual temperature is 42°
History. Situated in the French-speaking, Roman Catholic province
of Quebec, within 45 H. of the frontier of the British and Protestant
Ontario, Montreal partakes of the character of both and forms a mi-
crocosm of the cdmposite Dominion of Canada. The French and Anglo-
Saxon elements remain curiously distinct, socially as well as geographically.
We first hear of the island of Montreal in 1536, when Jacques Cartternacended
the St. Lawrence and visited the flourishing Indian to^n of Soehelaga
Digitized by VjOOQIC
History. MONTREAL. 28. Route. 129
(^Ho8h*e la-ga"), which lay at the foot of the mountain and has its name pre-
served in that of the E. ward of the modern city. {A tablet in Metcalfe St.
(PL B, C, 5), near Sherbrooke St^ marks what is supposed to have been
the site of Hochelaga.] When Champlain visited the spot seventy years
later Hochelaga had disappeared, as the result of a war between the
Hurons and the Iroquois. The town of Ville-Marie de Montreal was founded
in 16^ by Paul de Chomedy^ Sieur de Maitonneuve, for *La Compagnie de
Montrear. "The main point to be remembered in connection with the
early settlement of Montreal is that it was the result of religious enthus-
iasm. . . It was an attempt to found in America a veritable ^Kingdom of
God* as understood by devout Roman Catholics. The expedition was
fitted out in France solely for that purpose , and the inception of the
enterprise has many romantic particulars of Voices and revelations* and
^providential occurrences* by which the zeal of its founders was supported
and stimulated** (8. E. Dawson), During the early years of its existence
the little post of Ville-Marie was engaged in an almost constant struggle
with the Iroquois, and in 1660 the whole island outside the palisades of
the town was overrun by the Indians. In 1663 the Company of Montreal
abandoned the island and seigneurie pav pur don to the Seminary of St.
Snlpice, which still retains the position of Seigneur. Two years later
the Marquis de Tracy arrived from France with the famous Carignan-
Sali^res Regiment, with which he did much to break the power of the
Indians. By 1672 the town had a population of 1500 souls , and it soon
became the entrepdt of the fur-trade with the West and the starting-
point of numerous military and exploring expeditions (La Salle, Joliet,
Hennepin, etc.), earning a true clsdm to the title of ^Mother of Cities*.
In 168o the city was surrounded by a wooden palisade 16 ft. high, which
was replaced in 1721-26 by a bastioned wall and ditch; the citadel was
also built at this time. [The wall ran from Victoria Sq. (PI. D, 5, 6) to
Viger Sq. (PI. E, 4), in the course indicated by the present Fortification
Lane (PI. D, 6), and extended down to the river on each side.] Montreal,
then containing 4000 inhab. , was the last place in Canada held by the
French, but was surrendered to the English a year after the capture of
Quebec (Sept., 1760). In 1776-76 the city was occupied by the troops of
the Continental Congress under Montgomery, but the citizens resisted all
Franklin*s attempts to persuade them to join in the revolution against
British rule. Since then the history of Montreal has been one of uneventful
CTOWth and prosperity. In 1809 the 'Accommodation*, the second steamer
in America, was built at Montreal and began running regularly to Quebec
Montreal was made the seat of the Canadian Government in 1844, but lost
this dignity after the riot of 1849. in which the Parliament Buildings were
destroyed by the mob. The British garrison was removed in 1870.
Among the events which mark epochs in the city*s prosperity were
the opening of the Lachine Canal in 1826: the incorporation of the
Cbamplain A St. Lawrence Railway, from Laprairie to St. John*s, in
1832 •, the formation of the Grand Trunk Railway (1852) and the construc-
tion of the Victoria Bridge (1H69); the establishment of the Allan Line of
Ocean Steamers in 1866; and the completion of railway communication
with the Pacific Ocean via the Canadian Pacific Railway in 1BS6. The
population of Montreal rose from about 10.000 in 1800 to 57,716 in 1851,
to 90,328 in 1861, to 107,226 in 1871, to 165,337 in 1881, and to 216,650 in
1891. — Comp. ^The Jesuits in North America*, hj Francis Parkman; 'The
Old Regime in Canada*, by the same*, the ^Semi-Centennial Report of the
Montreal Board of Trade' (1893)*, 'Montreal after Two Hundred and Fifty
Years*, by W. D. Lighthail; and *Montreal, Past and Present*, by Alfred
Sandham (out of print).
A number of the most interesting historical sites in Montreal have
been marked by tablets erected by the Ifumistnatie de Antiquarian Society.
Gommerce and Industry. Montreal is the chief port of entry of Ca-
nada, lying at the head of ocean navigation (open for seven months in the
year) and at the foot of the great river, lake, and canal navigation ex-
tending to the West. The canals aff'ord a continuous inland waterway
Baedekkb*8 Canada. 3rd Edit. Digitized by V^OOglC
130 RovU 25. MONTREAL. ^^otre Dame,
from Port Arthur, at the head of Lake Superior, to Montreal, a distance
of 1220 M. and here they connect with several lines of transatlantic steamers.
These facts, taken in connection with its extensive railway-communicstions.
account for the volume of its trade, which in the year 1905 was valuea
at $154,131,963 (3O,826,C0W. ; imports $80,345,420, exports $73,786,648).
The tonnage of sea-going vessels entering the harbour in the same y«ar
was 1,940,056, four-fifths of which were British, while the tonnage of the
river-craft amounted to 2,185,551. The chief exports are timber, grain,
flour, cattle, phosphates, apples, butter, and cheese^ the imports include
iron, glass, tea, wine, groceries, and numerous manufactured articles and
*dry goods*. In 1905 the port awned 605 vessels, of 98,550 tons. — The
manufactures of Montreal, with an invested capital of about $86,000 000,
embrace boots and shoes, clothes, sugar, tobacco, beer, machinery, rubber,
packs, tool?, silk, cotton, woollens, paints, carriages, and electrical goods,
and there are numerous large ilour-mills and saw-mills. They employ
60 000 hands, and their total value maybe estimated at at lea't $80,000,000
(16,000,000/.). In 1906 the municipal assessihent was $182,501,262 (36,5CO.C00/.).
The Bank of Montreal (see below), in St. James St, claims to have the largest
capital and rest (upwards of $25,000,000) of any bank in N. America and
to be the fifth-largest in the British Empire.
On the S. side of the Place d'Abmes {V\. E, 5), in the business-
quarter of the city, stands the Gothic *Charo]i of Notre Dame (Pi.
E, 6), built in 1824 by James O'Donnell, opposite the site of an
earlier church of 1672. It is one of the largest ecclesiastical edifices
in A.merica, being 255 ft. long and 135 ft. wide, and can easily con-
taiw 12,000 worshippers. The two towers are 227 ft. high.
The Intebiob is adorned In a rather florid style, but offers compar-
ativfily little of interest except the wood-carving in the Choir^ the stained-
gl^ windows of the BaptUtery^ the large Organ^ and the somewhat over-
ornamented Lady Chapel^ behind the choir.
The 3. W. TowEB contains a fine chime of 11 bells, one of which,
*Le Gros Bourdon', weighing upwards of 12 tons, is the heaviest in America.
The top of this tower (adm. 25 c. ; elevator) commands a magnificent *View
of Montreal, which the visitor is strongly advised to enjoy before continue
ing his exploration of the city (comp. p. 186). Mr. W. D. ffowelU describes
it as follows: — ^30 far as the eye reaches it dwells only upon what is
magnificent. All the features of that landscape are grand. Below yon
spreads the city, which has less that is merely mean in it than any other
city of our continent, and which is everywhere ennobled by stately civic
edifices, adorned by tasteful churches, and skirted by fuU-foliaged avenues
of mansions and villas. Behind it rises the beautiful mountain, green
with woods and gardens to the crest, and flanked on the east by an endless
fertile plain, and on the west by another expanse, through which the Ottawa
rushes, turbid and dark, to its confluence with the St. Lawrence. Then
these two mighty streams commingled flow past the city, lighting up the
vast champaign country to the South, while upon the utmost southern
verge, as on the northern, rise the cloudy summits of far-off mountains*
('Their Wedding Journey*, chap. viii).
Adjoining Notre Dame on the W. is the Seminary of St. Sulpice
(PI. 4 ; E, 5), one of the oldest buildings in Montreal, dating from
1710 (memorial tablets). The E. wing has been rebuilt, and the main
central entrance has been swept away. This edifice is now used for the
business-offices of the Seminary (comp. p. 129), while its educational
work is carried on in the building described at p. 135. — The other
buildings surrounding the Place d'Armes include yarious banks and
insurance-offices, among which, opposite the Seminary of St. Sul-
pice, is the Bank of Montreal^ with its Corinthiaiv^ortico* its im-
(Ml de Ramt%ay. MONTREAL. 25. Route, 131
posing *GuaBtavino' dome (72 ft. in diameter), and its handsome
interior, one of tlie riohest corporations in America (comp. p. 130).
Adjoining the Bank of Montreal, at the corner of St. James St. and
St. Francois Xavier St., is the Post Office (PI. E, 5; p. 127), a build-
ing of grey limestone with a mansard roof. At th^ comer of Notre
Dame St. is the New York Life Insurance Building (view from t»wer).
In the middle of the Place d'Armes is a spirited *Statue of Maison-
neuve (p. 159), by Hibert^ erected in 1895. At the comers of the
pedestals are figures of Jeanne Mance (p. 136), an Iroquois warrior,
Charles Lemoyne, the leading colonist of Ville-Marie (p. 129), and
Lambert Olosse, the first town- major of Ville-Marie, who fell
fighting the Iroquois. A tablet on the E. side of the square marks
the house of the Sieur Duluth (1675), who gave his name to
Duluth.
Following NoTRB Damb Strebt (PI. D-F, 6-2) to the E. from
the Place d'Armes, we soon reach (left) the Court House (PI. E, 4),
a large edifice in a classical style, with a central dome, and the City
Hall (PI. E, 4), a huge building with mansard roofs. — Opposite
the City Hall stands the interesting old Ch&teau de Samezay, a
low, rambling building, dating from about 1705, opened in 1896
as a Civic Museum under the control of the Numismatic and Anti-
quarian Society (curator, R. W. McLachlan; open free daily, 10-6;
catalogue 25 c).
The building was erected aboat 1706 by Claude de Ramezay^ Governor
of Montreal (170B-24). Later, under the name of 'India House", it became
the headquarters of the far-trade in Canada. It was the official residence
of the British Governors (*Govemment House") from 1724 to 1837, and in
171^76 it was the headquarters of the Continental Army and Commissioners
(Franklin, Chase, and Charles Carroll; comp. p. 129). In 1837, when par-
liamentary government was withdrawn from Canada, the chateau became
the seat of the Special Council that legislated in its stead; and in i84o«
when Montreal became the seat of government for the United Province of
Canada, it wai used for departmental offices. On the transference of the
seat of Government to Ottawa in 1849, Government House was successively
occupied by the Law Courts, a normal school, and the medical branches
of Laval University. It was sold to the city in 1893.
The contents include a bell and other relics of Louisboui^ (p. 69);
old views and engravings; French Canadian relics; Indian articles. In
the basement are substantial vaults, with an old oven in the side of the
fireplace. [Some of the rooms, including one furnished in the style of an
old Canadian farm-house (the dwelling of a 'habitant', p. 132), are not usually
shown except to purchasers of the catalogue.] — The ch&teau also contains
a Free PubHic Library^ with a special 'Montreal* department.
At the back of the Court House and City Hall extends the Champ-
db-Mars (PI. E, 4), formerly the parade-ground of the British
troops, but now somewhat neglected-looking. — In front of the Court
House and City Hall is Jacqubs Cabtier Squabb (PL E, 4), with
a column surmounted by a statue of Lord Nelson, erected in 1808.
At the S. end of the square, near St. Paul St., stood the mansion of
the Marquis de Vaudreuil^ last French Governor of Canada. — The
Hubert Laeroix House in 8t, Jean Baptiste St. (No. 25; PI. E, 5), now oc-
cupied as a warehouse by Messrs. Kerry, Watson, & Co.. is a good example
of the dwelling of a rich Montreal merchant towar(ls the close of the
g, .oog[e
132 Rdute28. MONTREAL. Bontecoun Market
17th century. — 8i, Amabk and St. Vincent SU. (PL E, 4, 5) also contain some
interesting old Frencli houses.
Tlie lower end of Jacques Cartier Sq. abuts on the riyer. By
turning to the left, we soon reach *BonBecour8 Market (PI. E, 4),
a large building fiearly 500 ft. long. This should be visited on Tues.
or Frid. between 5 and 10 a.m. , when it is crowded by the ^Habitants*
of Lower Canada, offering their farm produce for sale, or buying
clothing, shoes, trinkets, rosaries, etc.
To the E. of the market stands the quaint little church of Notre
Bame de BonsecourSf founded by Sister Marguerite Bourgeois in 1657,
dating in its present form from 1771, and sadly spoiled by a recent
tasteless restoration. Some years ago it was nearly swept away to
make room for a railway-station, but was saved by the intervention
of a few Protestant lovers of historical association. Inside, suspended
from the ceiling, are several votive offerings in the form of ships.
View from the tower (adm. 10 c).
A little to the N. ^f this point is Yigbb Squabb or Garden
(PI. E, 3, 4), the chief promenade of the French quarter (good
music on summer evenings). It contains a statue of J. 0. Cheruer
(b. ca. 1806, killed at St. Eustache in 1837), unveiled in 1895.
Here, too, are the large Place Viger Hotel (p. 125) and the Viger
Square Station of the C.P.R. (p. 125). A tablet on the latter marks
the site of the old French citadel.
We may now follow Commissioners Street (PI. E, 4-6) to the
W. along the river to the (1/2 M.) Custom House (PI. E, 5), a tri-
angular building of grey limestone, with a clock-tower, situated on
the spot where Maisonneuve made his first settlement (p. 129 ; memo-
rial tablets). A Uttle farther to the W. are the Examining Wafter-
house and the Harbour Office (PI. E, 6).
The. walk between the Bonsecours Market and the Custom House
affords a good view of the Harbour, with its wharves and shipping. The
river-front is protected by a solid stone embankment, IV2 M. long, begin-
ning at the Lachine Canal (PI. £, 7). The wharves, including those of the
Allan, Dominion, C. P. B., Richelieu & Ontario, and other important steam-
ship lines, lie about 10 ft. bcdow the level of the embankment, the object
of this arrangement being to allow the ice to pass over them, when it
breaks up at the end of winter. [The so-called *Ice Shove* is a very striking
and imposing sight, but it is only by accident that one sees it, as it is
impossible to predict its appearance.] Plans are in contemplation for the
construction of large wharves jutting out into the river, and this has in-
volved the building of a long Quard Pier or Jee Breakieater , stretching
to the E. from the N. end of the Victoria Bridge. Vessels drawing 27Vs ft-
can reach Montreal at low water, and the channel is usually unobftrncted
by ice from May to November inclusive. Comp. p. 228.
From the Examining Warehouse we now ascend McGill Street
(Pi. E, 6), passing the substantial Or and Trunk Railway Building
(PI. E, 6), to (V3 M.) Victoria Square (PI. D, 5, 6) , occupying
the site of the old hay-market. It is embellished with a colossal
bronze statue of Queen Victoria ^ by Marshall Wood. To the N.
of the square, at the corner of Lagaucheti^re St. and Beaver Hall
Hill, stands the. Presbyterian Church of St. Andrjew (PI. J), 5). A
Digitized by VjOOQIC
8t. James's. MONTREAL. 28, Routf. 133
house to the E. of the square bears a tablet marking it as the
residence of James McGill (p. 135).
SL PairieVt Chureh (PI. D, 5), in St. Alexander St., to the E. of this
point, is the chief church of the Irish Roman Catholics of Montreal.
Following Lagaucheti^re St. to the left (W.), we Aach ♦Dominion
SauABB (PI. G, 6), the finest square In the city, embellished with
tasteful flower-beds and with two Russian guns captured at Sebas-
topol. Near the middle of the S.E. side is a statue of Sir John A.
MacdoncUd (d. 1891 ; p. xxv), erected in 1893, and to the N.W. is a
monument commemorating the Canadians who fell in the South
African War of 1899-1900. At the S.E. corner of the square is the
ArchhUhop^s Palace^ to the N. of which stands the imposing ♦Cathedral
of St. James (PI. G, 6), almost invariably (though quite erroneously)
known as St Peter's^ a reproduction on a reduced scale of St. Peter's
at Rome, founded in 1868 and not yet completed. It is 333 ft. in
exterior length, 222 ft. in width across the transepts, and 80 ft. high
to the ridge of the roof. The portico, with its huge Corinthian pil-
lars, is an effective feature. Over the facade is a row of colossal
bronze statues of saints. The dome is 260 ft high and 80 ft. in diam-
eter; it is surmounted by a cross 18 ft. high. The interior produces
an effect of great light and space. The exterior, with its small and
rough-faced stones, has a rather mean and prison-like appearance.
— Adjoining the N.W. corner of St. James's is a statue of Monsignor
Bourget (1797-1883), second Bishop of Montreal, by J. B. Picher,
with groups of Religion and Charity on the pedestal. To the N. of
St. James's, at the comer of Dorchester St., is the building of the
Young Mens Chmtian Aisociation. On the W. side of Dominion
Square are the Windsor Hotel (p. 125), the Dominion Square Methodist
Church (PL 1 ; C, 6), and the handsome SU George's Church (Epis. ;
PI. 0, 6). The huge and amorphous structure behind the Windsor
Hotel is the Victoria Skating Rink (p. 126).
In Windsor St., just helow Dominion Sq., is the handsome, castle-like
*Windsor Street Station (PI. C, 6) ot the Canadian Pacific Railway ; and at
the foot of Windsor St is the Bonaventure Station (PL D, 6, 7) of the
Grand Trunk Railway, also a spacious structure.
In Drummond St., near Bumside St., is the new building of the Natural
History Museum (PL 5*, B, 6), containing collections of Canadian natural
history and ethnology (adm. 10 c ).
St. Cathbkinb Street (PL B-F, 7-1), bounding Dominion Sq.
on the N., leads to the E. to ♦Christcliurch Cathedral (PL C, 5 ;
Epis.), a well-proportioned and effective structure in the Decorated
Gothic style, erected in 1859. It is 212 ft. long and 100 ft. wide across
the transepts ; the spire is 224 ft. high. The octagonal Chapter House
groups well with the Cathedral. In the rear are Bishop^s Courts the
Bishop's Palace, and the Rectory. Adjoining the cathedral is a Mc'
mortal of Bishop Fulford, Bishop of Montreal (1850-68), and first
Metropolitan of Canada.
Near this point, in Cathcart St., is the Victoria Rifles Armoury (PL C, 5).
— A little farther on, at the comer of Dorchester St., is the Fraser Institute
IM Route 28. MONTREAL. Art Oallery.
PI. C, 5), wWch contains a free public library (35,000 vola.) and a small
collection of pictures.
A little farther on, at the corner of Phillips Square, is the Art
Gallery (PL 0, 5), much enlarged in 1893 and containing a collec-
tion of painting, bronzes, etc. (open 10-4 j adm. 25 c.). Spring
and antumn exhibitions of art are held herie, and fine loan collec-
tions are frequently on view. Among the permanent possessions are
specimens of Corot, Diazy Koekkoek, Verhoeckhovenj Villegas, RouUet,
Vernier J W, B. Baker, Henry Bright, J. M, Barnsley, Cooper, Tholen,
F, M. Boggs , Henner, Richet , Troyon, Hoppe, Israels, Laugee,
Mauve, and P. de Hooghe.
The *St, James MethodUt Church (PI. C, 5), at the corner of St.
Catherine St. and St. Alexander St., is one of the handsomest in
the city, with two square towers of unequal height, surmounted by
lanterns and spirelets.
Bleury Street , which leads to the S. from St. Gatberine St., a block
farther on, contains tbe Church of the Getii (PI. D, 6), or Jesuit Chvrch,
somewhat in tbe style of tbe church of that name in Borne. It is noted
for its music (esp. on San. evening), and the interior is adorned with
elaborate frescoes in grisaille. Adjacent is tbe Jesuit College of St. Mary,
attended by about 400 students and containing a collection of archives.
Near St. Mary's College is the Protestant House of B.tfuge (PI. D, 5).
A little farther on, to the left, is the Nazareth Asylum for
Blind Children (PI. D, 4), the small chapel of which has a good
facade in the Norman style and contains frescoes by Bourassa (see
below). At the next corner is the St. Francois Xavier Orphan Asylum
(P1.D,4).
About Ys M. farther on, at the corner of St. Denis St. (right),
stands the *Cliaroli of Notre Dame de Lonrdes (PI. D, 3), built in
1874 to commemorate the Apparition of the Virgin at Lourdes.
The church consists of a nave, with narrow aisles, transept, and choir,
and is in a Keo-Byzantine style such as is seen in some of the churches
of Venice. The central dome is 90 ft. high. It was designed by the
Canadian painter and architect Napoleon Bourassa, who has adorned it
with a series of well-executed frescoes, emblematical cf tbe predestination
and immaculate conception of the Virgin. The Basement Chapel (reached
by passing to tbe right of the choir into the vestry and then descending)
represents the appearance of the Virgin to the peasant-girl Bernadette Soil-
birous at Lourdes in 1858.
On the opposite side of the street stands the R. 0. Church of St,
James (PI. D, 3), with a graceful tower. Behind St. James, in Mig-
nonne St., is the Reformatory (PI. D, 3).
If we follow Dorchester Street to the W. from Dominion
Square, we soon pass the handsome American Presbyterian Church
(PI. 0, 6) and the Crescent Street Presbyterian Church (PI. 0, 6)
and reach (1/3 M.) the *Grey Nannery (PI. B, 7), a large hospital
and asylum for foundlings, orphans, the aged, and the infirm, found-
ed in 1738 and under the management of the Grey Sisters (Soeurs
G rises). The buildings on the present site (entr. in Guy St J date
from 1871. This establishment, consisting of 700 professed sisters
fin4 310 novices, lay sisters, and postulants, is one o( the most popu-
Digitized by VjOOQIC
McOill Vniveraity. MONTREAL. 28, Route. 135
lous conventual institutions in the world. Noon is the best time for
visitors (formal reception on New Year's Day). The red cross in one
comer of the grounds (adjoining Dorchester St.) commemorates a
double murder committed near this spot. The daughter of Ethan
A^en (1738-89) of Vermont was a sister of this nunnery, and her
name is associated with a romantic legend. •
Guy St. leads to the N., past the entrance of the Grey Nunnery,
to (Va M.) ♦Shbrbbookb Street (PI. A-D, 1-7), perhaps the hand-
somest residence-street in Montreal. The sleighing scenes here in
winter are probably unequalled outside of St. Petersburg. Following
the street to the left (W.) for a short distance, we reach (right) the
College de Montreal, or Petit Siminaire (PI. A, 7), and the Qrand
Siminaire, together forming the educational portion of the seminary
of St. Sulpice (comp. p. 130), and consisting of a main building 725 ft.
long, witb three subsidiary buildings in front and two behind. The
College gives a complete course in the ecclesiastical sciences. It
occupies the site of the old Fort de la Montagne^ two of the towers
of which, erected for defence against the Indians, are still standing
(memorial tablets.) There were originally four of these towers, con-
nected by a curtain- wall pierced with loopholes. On the hillside
above is a large College of Philosophy^ for the study of philosophy and
natural science. The three institutions are now attended by 675
students, most of whom are preparing for the priesthood.
To the W. of thia point lies the saburb of Westmount, including the
W. half of Mt. Royal (p. 136), Westmount Park, a Public Library, and a
Public Hall. The views from the higher part) of the district (reached by
the Guy St. cara) are very fine.
We may now retrace our steps to the E. along Sherbrooke St.,
passing the new ErMne Preslyterian Church (PI. B, 6), at the corner
of Ontario Ave., and in 8/4 M. reach the grounds of *MoOiIl Uni-
versity (PI. B, 5), one of the leading universities of Canada, now
attended by 1200 students, taught by nearly 200 professors and lec-
turers.
McGill College was founded in 1821 with the bequest of James MeOill
(1744-1813), a native of Glasgow (who is buried ia front of the main build-
ing), and has since been richly endowed by other public-spirited citizens
of ifontreal. It now includes the four faculties of Arts, Law, Medicine,
and Applied Science; and with it are affiliated the Diocesan, Wcsleyan,
Presbyterian, and Congregational Colleges of Montreal, Morrin College at
Quebec (p. 153), the Stanstead Wesleyan College at Stanstead, and Van-
couver College at Vancouver. The course in Arts provides for the edu-
cation of women in separate classes. The university owes much of its
success to Sir William Dawson, the eminent geologist, who was its prin-
cipal till 1893, when he was succeeded by Dr. William Peterson.
The buildings include the original McOill College; the Workman
Building, the McDonald Physics Building, the McDonald Engineering Build-
ing, and the McDonald Chemistry ie Mining Building (opened in 1898), all
unsurpassed in America for completeness of equipment; the "Redpath Museum
(PI. B, 5; open 9-6; adm. 10 c), containing valuable collections of natural
hialory (lifesize model of a megatherium, etc.) ; the Redpath Library^ facing
MCTavish St., with accommodation for 250,000 vols. ; ih^ Medical Building ;
the Observatory; the Royal Victoria College (PI. C, 5), a residential college
for women students, endowed by Lord Strathcona and opened in 1899 (with
136 Route '28, MONTREAL. Mount Royal Park,
a statue of Queen Victoria, by the Princess Louise, in front of the entrance);
and the Contervatoriwn of Mtuic^ opened in 1904 and situated just to the
S. of Victoria OoUege. The Preibyterian and WedByan Colleger are within
the same enclosure as McGill College, and the Congregational College
(PI. B, 5) is on the other side of McTavish St. The MeQill Normal School
(PI. 3; D, 6), Belmont St., is also affiliated to McGill University. — Ih
SberbroQke St., at the corner of HcGill College Are., opposite the main
entrance to HcGill University, is Strathcona Hall (PI. C, 5), the T. M. C. A.
of the University. The Studentt' Union^ a handsome building erected by
Sir William McDonald at a cost of $ 225,000, lies close by, at the comer
of Victoria St.
Behind tRe grounds of McGill University, on the side of Mt. Royal,
is the Main Reservoir fPl. B, 5) of the city water-works, with a
capacity of 36,500,000 gallons. Beyond this, in Pine Ave., are the
handsome buildings of the Boyal Victoria Hospital (PI. B, 4),
opened in 1894, with accommodation for 250 patients. It cost
over $1,000,000 and is a gift from Lord Mount Stephen and Lord
Strathcona. Adjacent is a new Nurses* Home,
By following Pine Ave. towards the right (E ), we reach the
(1/3 M.) *Hdtel Dieu (PI. B, 3, 4), a large hospital under the care
of the Hospltali^res de St. Joseph.
This institution was founded in 1644 bv Mile, Manee, one of the
original settlers of Montreal, with the aid or funds contributed by Mme.
de Bullion, a French lady of rank. The nresent buildings, in which
3000 patients are treated yearly, date from 1861. The original site, in St.
Paul St., is now covered by a group of warehouses known as Nuns Build-
ings (PI. E, 5). Eighty of the nuns are cloistered and do not go outside
of the grounds. — Opposite the Hdtel Dieu is the Montreal School of
Medicine and Surgery (French).
At the H6tel Dieu we are in convenient proximity to the Moun-
tain Elevator (PI. A, B, 4; 6 c.) ascending to *Moimt Boyal Park
(PI. A, 3-6), which may also be reached by a winding roadway or
by long flights of steps ascending from the head of Peel St. (PI. B,
5) and near the elevator. The park, covering 460 acres, is one
of the most beautifully situated in America, and its natural advan-
tages have been skilfully supplemented by the taste and experience
of Mr. F. L. Olmsted. The mountain consists of a mass of trap-rock
thrown up through the surrounding strata of limestone.
From the top of the Incline Railway we reach the Outlook Platform
by taking the path to the left and then following the drive. [A path be-
ginning just on this side of the platform descends to the head of the Peel
St. Steps.] The **View of the city and its environs from the platform is
superb. The air of distinction which differentiates Montreal from most
American cities is, perhaps, due to the number of church-spires and large
charitable or educational institutions, together with the comparative unob-
trusiveness of merely commercial buildings. Beyond the city flows the
St. Lawrence , with the Island of St. Helen and the Victoria Bridee.
The hills on the other side of the river, named ft>om left to right, in-
clude Montarville, Beloeil (p. 138) or St. Hilaire, Mt. Bougemont, with
Mt. Tamaska behind it, Mt. Shefford, and the conical Mt. Johnson or Mon-
noir. The Adirondaeks are visible in the ilistance to the S.W. and the
Green Mts. to the S.E.
Drivers usually extend their trip so as to include the large ProUstmii
and Roman Catholic Cemeteries (beyond PI. A, 8), lying to the IT. of the park
(the latter with a ^Route de Calvaire", with the Stations of the Cross). The
lielvedcrej on the hill rising above the cemeteries, commands a fine view of
Victoria Bridge. MONTREAL. 28, Route, 137
tbe lower valley of the Ottawa, with the Lake of the Two Mts., Lake St.
Lonia, and the whole island of Montreal. The cemeteries may also be
reached by electric tramway (Park and Island Railway; fare 10c.)>
Montreal possesses another pleasant park on the Island of St. Helen
(beyond PI. F, 4), which was named after Champlaln^s wife, the first European
lady that came to Canada. It is reached by a small steamer plying from
Bonseeours Wharf (PL F, 4). A fort and barracks , formerly used by the
British troops, still remain. — Lafontaine Park (PL C, D, 1, 2), with its arti-
ficial lake, may also be mentioned *, it has an area of tt5 acres.
One of the chief lions of Montreal is the *Victoria Bridge (beyond
PL F, 7), a pennit to examine which may be obtained at the offices
of the Grand Trunk Railway (p. 132).
The Victoria Tubular Bridge^ which was designed by Robert Stephenson
and A. M. Boss and built in 185i-69, was on the same principle that had
been successfully applied by Stephenson a few years earlier in the Brit-
annia Bridge over the Menai Strait. It was I'/i M. in length and consisted
of 24 tubes supported by 24 piers besides the terminal abutments. Th&
tubes, which were of wrought iron, were 16 ft. wide and 18Vi-22 ft. high.
They were traversed by a single line of railway. The total cost of the bridge
was $ 6,800,000 (1,260,000 {.). This bridge, long regarded as one of the
greatest bridges in the world, finally proved inadequate for the traffic
and was replaced in 1898-99 by the Victoria Jubilee Bridge^ a pin- connected
tmss-bridge with 25 spans, accommodating two railway-tracks, together
with two roadways and two footpaths. The new bridge rests on the same
piers as the old one, and was constructed over and around the latter
without disturbing the traffic. The engineer was Mr. Joseph Hobson. The
total cost was $ 20.000,000 (4,000,000 {.). — Kear the K. end of the bridge
is the Immigrants' Burial Ground^ containing a memorial to 6000 immi-
grants who died of ship's-fever in 1847-8.
Among other buildings, of more or less interest, not included in
the foregoing survey, are the Montreal General Hospital (PI. D, 4),
in Dorchester St., at the corner of St. Dominique St ; the Alexandra
Hospital (beyond PL D, 7), in Oharron St., Point St. Charles,
opened in 1906, and the St. Paul's Hospital^ in Sherbrooke St. East
(beyond PL D, 1), subsidized by the city for infectious diseases
among the English-speaking and the French-speaking inhabitants
respectively; the Notre Dame Hospital (PL E, 4), Notre Dame St. ;
the Jacques Cartier Normal School (PL D, 1, 2), in Sherbrooke St.
East; the Peel Street High School (PL 0, 6); the Aberdeen School
(PL 0, 3), St. Denis St. ; the Church of St. John the Baptist (PL B,<2);
the Hochelaga Convent^ on the St. Lawrence, below the city ; the
Synagogue (PL 0, 6), in a pseudo-Egyptian style, in Stanley St. (site
of first synagogue in Montreal marked by a tablet near Notre Dame
St., to the W. of the Court House); the * Board of Trade Building
(PL E, 6), St. Sacrament St., a large edifice of red sandstone in a
modified Renaissance style, rebuilt since a fire in 1900, at a cost of
$ 600,000 ; and the Sovereign Bankj a ten-story building in St. James
St To the N.W. of the city, on the slopes of Mt Royal, stands the
VUla Maria Convent of the Sisters of the Congregation of Notre
Dame, occupying Monklands^ a former residence of the Governors-
General of Canada. The sisters of this order have jibout 46,000 girls
in their schools throughout Canada. The adjacent Maison M^re of
the order, with, its finely decorated church, was burned do^ in
138 Route 28. MONTREAL.
1893, but a new building to take its place is being erected in Sher-
brooke St., between Atwater Ave. and Elm Ave. (beyond PI. A, 7).
-- Tbe Laval University Building (p. 152). at 185 St. Denis St., a
Renaissance straoture with a frontage of 190 ft., includes the Facul-
ties of Law, Medicine, and Arts; its Theological Faculty is at 1197
Sherbrooke St., its Polytechnic School at 1999 St. Catherine St.,
and its Veterinary Department at 378 Craig St. The Montreal branch
of Laval has about 1000 students. — Among the finest private ilesi-
dences in Montreal are those of Mr, RoVert Meighen^ Mrs. J. C. Mcln-
tyre, Mr. R. Reford, Mr. C. R. Hosmer, and Mr. R. B, Angus, all in
Drummond St. (PI. B, C, 5, 6; No3. 140, 317, 260, 302, & 240);
Sir Montague i4Man(Ravenscrag); Lord Strathcona^ 1167 Dorchester
St.; Mr. James Ross, 360 Peel St. ; and Sir Oeo. A, Ihummond,
874 Sherbrooke St.
Other historical points marked by tablets are the House of La Salle
(1643-87), at the cx)rner of St. Peter and St. Paul Sts. (PI. E, 6) ; the
House of La Motte Cadillac^ founder of Detroit, in St. Lawrence
Boulevard (on Leeming-Miles Building ; PI. E, 6) ; the site of the
residence of Sir Alex, Mackenzie, discoverer of the Mackenzie River
(1793), in Simpson St. ; the birthplace of Pierre (d'IberviUe) and
Jean Baptiste (de BienviVe) Lemoyne, the discoverers of the mouths of
the Mississippi (1699), in St. Paul St., to the E. of Place Royale
(PI, E, 5) ; and the fjorth- West Fur Company's Stores, Vaudreuil St.
Environs of Montreal.
Perhaps the most popular short excursion from Montreal is that to
the *Bapid8 of Lachine, described at p. 230. Trains leave the Bonaventure
Station (PI. D, 6) for (8 M.) Lachine (p. 230) about 8 a.m., 1.30 p.m., and
5 p.m., to connect with the steamers about to run the rapids. The electric
tramway to Sumtnerlea (see p. 126) passes within 250 yds. of Lachine Wharf
(fare 15 c, from (3ity Limits 10 c). Tbe drive to Lachine is also pleasant.
Drivers should go by tbe upper road, passing the aqueduct and wheel-house
of the Montreal Waterworks, and return by the lower road, skirting the
river and affording a good view of the rapids. — Another favourite point
for a drive (electric car) is (7 M.) tbe SauU-awRicollet, a rapid on tbe Eivifcre
des Prairies or 'Back River*, to the l^.W. of the city, so named from a
B^coUet priest drowned here by the Hurons in 1626. These drives afford
some idea of the fertile Island of Montreal, with its famous apple-orchards
('Pomme Grise', *Fameuse', etc.). — Laprairie, a village with about 1460
inhab., on the 8. bank of the St. Lawrence (ferry thrice daily), 8 M. to
theS.W. of Montreal, was the starting-point of the first railway in British
N. America (comp. p. 129). It possesses an old fort, attacked in the *Battle
of Laprairie* (1691) by Col. Peter Schuyler and his New England troops. —
Lonaueuil^ opposite Hochelaga (p. 128), with 2835 inhab., and Si. Lambert
(p. 14) are frequented for rowing and sailing (ferry). — An excursion should
be made to *Beloeil Mountain or Mt. St. Hilaire (1600 ft.), which rises
about 16 M. to the E. and commands a fine view of Montreal, the St. Lawrence,
Lake Champlain (40 M. to tbe 8.), etc. It is reached by tbe Grand Trunk
Railway to (22 M.) St. Hilaire (not Beloeil). St. Hilaire may also be reached
twice weekly by steamer (Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Co.), via Sorel
and the Richelieu River (comp. p. 143 \ 16 hrs.). Close by is a pretty lake,
which affords boating and bathing. Beloeil Mt., like Roagemont (p. 16) and
Mt. Royal itself, is a mass of eruptive rock, protruding through the surround-
ing limestone. — Other pleasant points for short excursions are Caughnawaqa
(p. i7), SU. Anne (p. 185), Montarville, Varennes (p. 148), and VercMres (p. 148).
yGoogk
yGoogk
yGoogk
yGoogk
THREE RIVERS. 29, RouU. 139
Longer excursions may be made to Chanibly (p. 19), Lake Memphre-
magog (p. 18), Lake Champlain (p. 13), Ausable Chasm Q>. 13), the Adirondack$
(pp. 13, 16), the White Mountains (p. 19), Carillon^ on the Ottawa (p. 185), etc.
The geologist will find much to interest him in the district round Mont-
real, in the immediate vicinity of which the Pleistocene, Lower Helderberg,
HudJson Biver, Utica, Trenton, and Qiazy formations are all represented.
Mt. Koyal is an intrusive eruptive mass, mainly of diabase.
From Montreal to 8t. John, see B. 16 ; to (2t/«6«c, see R. 29 \ to Ottatoa^
see RR. 34,37^ to Toronto^ see RR. 38,47; \o New York, see R. 2; to Boeioh^
see R. 8 j to Portland^ see R. 9} to Port Arthur and Fort William, see R. 48.
29. From Montreal to Quebec.
a. Yik the Canadian Pacific Bailway (N. Shore of the
St. Lawrence).
173 M. Canadian Pacific Railway in 4V«-7>/» hrs. (fare $ 4.50 ; sleeper
$ 1.50; parlor-car 76c.). This is the most direct route between the two
cities. The trains start from the Viger Sq. Station, connection in some
cases being made from Windsor Street Station.
Montreal^ see p. 125. ^he train passes the suburban station of
(1 M.) Hochelaga (p. 128), crosses the *Back River' at (10 M.) Sault-
aU'RScollet (p. 13iB), and diverges to the right (E.) from the main
transcontinental line at (13 M.) St. Martin Junction (Rail. Restau-
rant). At (18 M.) St, Vincent dd Paul is the large Provincial Pen-
itentiary. We cross the N. branch of the Ottawa at (24 M.) Terre-
bonne, with its large limestone quarries.
The line now runs between the St, Lawrence on the right and
the Laurentide Mts. (average height ca. 1600 ft.) to the left, the
mountains being at first 30 M. from the river but approaching it
more closely as we proceed. The district traversed is perfectly flat
and carefully cultivated. The long narrow fields into which it is
cut up are due to the French custom of equal subdivision of estates
and the desire to give each heir a share of the river-frontage. The
churches and presbyteries, with their shining tin spires and roofs,
are the most prominent buildings in the numerous villages.
40 M. Vaucluse. From (49 M.) Joliette Junction a branch -line
runs to Jolielte (p. 142). 67 M. Berthier Junction, for Berthier
(1364 inhab.); 71 M. MaskinongS. — Near (75 M.) LouiseviUe
(1565inhab.) are the St. Leon Springs (Hotel, $2-3), a frequented
health-resort, the water of which is bottled and much used through-
out Canada. The springs may also be reached by steamer. — 81 M.
Yamachiche; 88 M. Pointe du Lac,
96 M. Three Elvers or Trois Rivitres (Ildtel Dufresne, $2-2V2i
Dominion Hotel, $1V2? Sanatorium^ for hydro- electric treatment,
French; Rail, Restau/rant; U. S. Consul, Mr, James H. Worman), one
of the oldest towns in Canada, having been founded in 1634, lies at
the mouths of the St, Maurice River, and at the head of tide-water
in the St. Lawrence. It is the outlet for an important lumbering-
district, and manufactures stoves a?id car-wheels from >^e bog-iron
Digitized by VjOO
140 RouU29. DRUMMONDVILLE. From Montreal
ore of the district. Pop. (1901) 9981. The Cathedral is a building
of some pretensions, and there are other large Roman Catholic in-
stitutions. The College has 300 pupils. Benjamin SuUe, the French-
Canadian historian, is a native of Three Rivers, and has celebrated
its historic associations in his * Ohronique Trifluvienne'.
The 8i. Mcwriee River is about 300 H. long and drains a very large
atea. Its lower course is a succession of falls and rapids ; and a pleasant
excursion may be made to the *£lhawinigaH or Shaioenegan Fall* (150 ft. ^
see below). Good fishing and shooting may be obtained along its course
(guides, etc., at Three Rivers).
On the S. shore of the St. Lawrence, opposite Three Rivers, lies Dou-
eeVt Landing (p. 144).
We now cross the St. Maurice to (98 M.)PMca Junction, whence
a branch -line runs visl Oameau Junction (p. 142) to (27 M.)
Qrandes Files,
Lac iL la TortuB (19 H.; Shawanegan Ho.), on this railway^ may be
made the starting-point for a visit to the above-mentioned Shawinigan
Falls. The nearest station to the falls is, however, that mentioned at p. 142.
108 M. Chamiplain; 115 M. Batiscan, at the mouth of the river
of that name (comp. p. 163); 119 M. 8te. Anne de la Ferade^ at the
mouth of the 8te, Anne River, with a large two - towered church
(right); 131 M. Lachewoittre; 134 M. Deschamhault ; 137 M. Fort-
neuf, with wood-pulp mills. At (147 M.) Font Rouge we cross the
Jacques Cartier River j famous for its salmon. 160 M. Belavr; 166 M.
Lorette or Ancienne Lorette, about 3 M. from Indian Lorette (see
p. 162). As we approach Quebec our line is joined on the left by
that from Lake St. John (see R. 32).
173 M. Quebec, see R. 30.
b. Yik the Intercolonial Bailway (8. Shore of the St. Lawrence).
164 M. Intbbcolonial Railway in 4Vr7 hrs. (fare $ 4.95 i sleeper $ 1.60,
parlor-car 75 c.). The Ocean Limited Exprese (4^/2 hrs.) runs in summer
only} clocks and time-tables follow the 24-hoar system (comp. p. 83).
The trains start from the Bonaventure Station, cross the St. Law-
rence by the Victoria Bridge , and follow the tracks of the Grand
Trunk Railway to (351/2 M.) 8t. Hyacinthe (see p. 141). The Inter-
colonial Railway here diverges to the left and runs in an almost
straight line all the way to L^vis. — 38 M. Ste. Rosalie; 44 Af.
St. Edward; 54 M. 8t. Euglne; 61 M. 8t. Germain, 64 V2 M. Drum-
fnondviUCy a thriving little manufacturing town, with 1450 inhab.,
is supplied with excellent water-power from Lord's Falls on the
8t. Francis River, which is crossed here by two steel bridges (comp.
p. 19). — 84 M. St. Leonard, the junction of a branch -line to
(14 M.) Nicolet (p. 144); 92 M. Aston, the junction of a short Une
to Doucet's Landing (p. 144); 117 M. Villeroy, for short branches to
Lyster(S.; p. 141) and St. Jean des Chaillons (N.; p. 144J. Be-
tween Villeroy and (133 M.) Laurier the region abounds with cari-
bou and deer. — lo4 M. Chaudihre. A glimpse of the Ghaudidre
Falls (p. 141) is obtained here. At (154V2 M.) Chaudihre Junction
toQuebet. BELOEIL MT. 29. Route. 141
the line connects with the Grand Trunk Railway for Sberbrooke,
LennoxviUe, and Portland. From Chandl^ie to (163 M.) Livis and
(164 M.) Quebec, see R. 29 c.
c. Yik the Grand Trunk Bailway (8. Shore of the St. Lawrence).
174 M. Gkand Tbcnk Railway in 6«/2-12 hrs. (fares as in R. 29 a).
From Montreal (Bonaventure Station) to (61/2 M.) 8t, Lambert,
see p. 14. From this point the line runs to the left (E.) through a
pleasant, somewhat English-looking district of woodlands, pastures,
and farms. Just beyond (21 M.) Beloeil we cross the Richelieu (♦View)
and reach (22 M.) St. Hilaire, the starting-point for an ascent of
Beloeil Mt. (comp. p. 138), which here rises to the right of the line,
though it first comes into view on our left front. Otterburn Park,
on the Richelieu, at St. Hilaire, is a favourite picnic-ground. —
The next point of interest is (3672 M.) 8t. Hyacinthe (Yamaska,
$2; U, S. Consul), a pretty little French-Canadian city of (1901)
9210 inhah., with a Roman Catholic cathedral and a large Domin-
ican college. Its manufactures include leather, shoes, woollen
goods,' and milling machinery. The town was devastated by fire
in 1903, but has been rebuilt. The Quebec Southern .Railway runs
hence to the N. to (36 M.) Sorel (p. 143) and to the S. to (29 M.) Iber-
ville, (42 M.) HenryvilU, and (52 M.) jfjfoyan Junction. — Beyond St
Hyacinthe station we cross the Yamaska River. The country traversed
is now rather featureless, with a good deal of scrub-wood. Yamaska
Mt. is seen to the right, 12 M. distant. Beyond (48 M.) Upton we
cross two small streams. 64 M. Acton; 66 M. South Durham. ^
At (76V2 M.) Richmond (2057 iuhab.; St. Jacob's Hotel, $lV2i
Rail. Restaurant) , in the 'Eastern Townships' (p. 47) , with the
College of St. Francis (110 students), our line diverges to the left
(N.E.) from that to Portland (p. 26) and traverses a thinly-peopled
district. 881/2 M. Danville, Farther on we cross the Nicolet. From
(108 M.) Arthabaska (U. S. Agent) a branch - line runs to the left
(N.") to (36 M.) DouceVs Landing (p. 144), connected by ferry with
(2 M.) Three Rivers (p. 139). 117 M. Stanfold; 123 M. Somerset, a
local market, with a trade in lumber; 131 M. Ste. Julie. At (136 M.)
Lyster (p. 140) we cross the Bicancour. 152 M. St. Agapit. At
(164 M.) Chaudiere (U. S. Com. Agent) we cross the Chauditre, a
rushing stream which forms a waterfall, 130 ft. high, a little to the
left (top visible from the railway ; now marred by factories"). The
new bridge of the Grand Trunk Pacific Railway (see p. 307) is
visible to the left. The heights of Quebec are now also seen on
the same side, the various features in and near the city becoming
more and more prominent as we proceed. The huge red Chllteau
Frontenac Hotel (p. 145) is very conspicuous.
From (173 M.) Livis (p. 157) passengers are ferried (fare 3 c.)
across the St. Lawrence to (174 M. Quebec (R. 30). Hotel -ppters
Digitized by VjOOQIC
142 Route 29. JOLIETTE. From'Montreal
meet the trains at L6vis and will take charge of the baggage-checks.
Cabs and omnibuses meet the steamer on the Quebec side (p. 145).
d. Vi& the Canadian Northern Quebec Bail way.
195 M. Canadian Korthbrn Quebec Railway in lO'/z hrs. (fare $ 4.60
in summer, $ 4.90 ia wInteiO. This line runs to the N. of and more or
less parallel with the Canadian Pacific Railway.
Montreal (Windsor St. Station), see p. 125. The train hugs the
bank of the St. Lawrence as far as (14 M.) Charlemagne , where it
crosses the N. branch of the Ottawa. It then quics the river and
bends inland. 21 M. V A$somption ; 24 M. UEpiphanie, the junction
of a short line to St. Jacque$.
36 M. Joliette ( Victoria; Chdteau QuUbaultJ, a small town with
(1901) 4220 inhab., is a railway -junction of some importance.
Fboic Joliette to Hawkesbubt, &7 H., railway in 6-6iAt hrs. This line
runs towards the S.W., passing (26 M.) Jfew Glasgow^ to <%3 M.) Si. J6r6fM
Junction (for St. Jirdme; 3619 inhab.), where it crosses the Canadian Pacific
Railway from Montreal to Nomining (see p. 175). At (53 M.) Lixchute
(p. 175) we again cross the Can. Pac. Railway. The train now runs along
the N. shore of the Ottawa to (66 M.) Orenville (496 inhab.) and (67 M.)
Hawkeibury (p. 174).
Lines also run from Joliette to the 1).E. to St. Filix de Ydloit and
St. Oabriel de Brandon (Mastigouche Ho., a resort of anglers), and to the
S. to Joliette Junction^ on the Canadian Pacific Railway (p. 139).
Beyond Joliette we continue to run towards the N.E. 54 M. 8t
Barthelemi; 82 M. St. Boniface. — 90 M. Shawinigan Junction^ for
a short branch -line to (5 M.) Shawinigan Falls (see p. 140). —
94 M. Grand M^re (^Laurentides Inn^ well spoken of; Bail. Beatau-
rant), a small town on the St. Maurice^ with extensive water-power
and large paper and pulp mills. Pop. (1901) 2611. — The railway
then crosses the St. Maurice just below the Orand Mire Falls (view).
At (98 M.) Qarneau Junction we intersect the 0. P. R. line from
Three Rivers to Grandes Piles (pp. 139, 140). 105 M. St. TUe;
113 M. Ste. Thlcle; 121 M. Lac au SahU; 126 M. Notre Dame
des Anges; 130 M. Bousseau's Mill. — 138 M. Bivitre (i Pierre and
thence to —
195 M. Quebec, see p. 145.
e. yik the St. Lawrence.
180 M. Stbamebs of the Richelieu A Ontario Navigation Co. leave their
wharf near Bonsecours Market (PI. E, P, 4) every evening at 7 p.m. in con-
nection with the boat arriving from Kingston (R. 47), and reach Quebec
next morning about 6.30 a.m. (fare $4; berth 75c. or $1. parlor-stateroom
from $21/2; B. or S. 75 c., D. $1). There are no Sun. Doata between the
beginning of Oct. and the end of May. The long days and short nights
of a Canadian summer enable the traveller by this route to see a good
deal of the river scenery. The banks are usually flat and offer little ^ of
interest except the innumerable French villages, with the shining tin-
sheathed spires and roofs of their churches and presbyteries. Near Quebec,
however, the scenery is more picturesque. The names of a number of the
towns and villages along this part of the St. Lawrence are of frequent
occurrence in accounts of the campaigns of 1775-6 (comp., e.g., Vol. VI of
Kingsfoi'd'e 'History of Canada*).
Digitized byCjOOQlC
to Quebec. SORJEL. 29. Route. 143
Montreal^ see p. 125. As we leave, we obtain a good view of
the city and of the *superb water-front with its long airay of docks
only surpassed by those of Liverpool' (Howells),
To the right lie St, Helen's Island (p. 136) and the small lU
Ronde, On the S. bank, opposite Hochelaga (p. 139) ,lies LongueuU
(p. 138), with its pier.
7 M. (left) Longue Pointey with Dominion Park (p. 126j and the
extensive works of the American Locomotive & Machine Co.
7V2 M. (right) BoucherviUe. The register of the parish- church
contains an entry of the baptism of an Indian baby by P^re Mar-
quette on May 20th, 1668. The low marshy islands here are fre-
quented for duck-shooting and sometimes cause disastrous inunda-
tions by damming up the ice descending the river.
8Y2M. (\eit)Pointe'auX'Tremhle8, with a church dating from 1704,
14 M. (r.) Varennes, with mineral springs, a miracle -chapel,
and a 'Calvaire', is frequented as a summering-place, and has a
large modern church, with two towers and elaborate internal de-
corations. Yarennes, which also possesses a commercial college and
a convent, celebrated its 200th anniversary in 1893. Sir George
Cartier (p. 179) and other well-known Canadian politicians were
natives of Varennes. — (1.) Bout- de-V Isle j at the mouth of the N.
branch of the Ottawa (Rivilre des Prairies), which enters the St. Law-
rence amid a group of low wooded islands.
16 M. (1.) Repentigny. — 22 M. (r.) Vercheres, with an old French
wind-mill and a romantic legend. — 23 M. (I.) SUSulpice. — 28 M.
(r.) Contrecoeur. — 29 M. (1.) Lavaltrie. — 35 M. (1.) Lanoraie,
43 M. (r.) Sorel (Brunswick, Carlton, $ lV2i U. 8. Agent), a
small city Of ri901) 7057 inhab., lies at the mouth of the Richelieu
(pp. 14, 19, 47), carries on a considerable country- trade, and pos-
sesses several shipbuilding-yards and foundries. It is named from
Capt. De Sorel of the Carignan-Sall^res Regiment (p. 129), who built
a fort here in 1665. Good fishing and snipe -shooting are obtained
in the neighbourhood^ — Opposite lies Berthier (p. 139; ferry).
From Sorel the ^Shore Line' of the Quebec Southern Railway runs via
(10 H.) Yamaska to (17 M.) Bt. Francois du Lac, the station for Abenakis
Springs {Hotel, $2, bath 30 c.), a summer-resort, much frequented by the
Hontrealers. It may also be reached by steamer up the St. Framois (see
below) or hy railway from Montreal (Bonaventure Station 1 3-4 hrs.).
A steamer of the Richelieu A Ontario Nav. Co., leaving Montreal on
Tues. & Frid. at 1 p.m. and Sorel at 5 p.m., ascends the RicJielieu River
from Sorel to Chambly, arriving at 7.30 a.m. on the following morning
(through return-fare $6 or $6, incL meals and betiih). The river is narrow
and the scenery picturesque. The boat lies to from 10.30 p.m. to 4 a.m.
at St. Mare. St. Hilaire (see p. 138) is reached at 5 a.m. Beyond Beloeil is
the Beloeil Bridge^ an iron draw-bridge 12C0 ft. long. — Chambly^ see p. 19.
Beyond Sorel the St. Lawrence expands into Lake St. Peter,
26 M. long and 9 M. wide. The lake is shallow, but a deep channel
has been dredged through it. Huge timber-rafts may be met here.
67 M. (r.) 8t, Francois, at the mouth of the river of that name.
- 65 M. (1.) L,yui.^m (p. 139). o:,.,...,GoOgIe
144 Route 29, CAP ROUGE.
76 M. (r.) Nicolet^ (Canada Hotel, $172), "^^^ (1901) 2225 in-
hab. and a large college (300 pupils), lies at the mouth of the river
of its own name (p. 141). A new cathedral, a parish church, a
convent, and a home for priests were all burned down in 1906.
Nearly opposite is Pointe du Lac, at the lower end of Lake St. Peter.
88 M. (I.) Three Bivers (see p. 139) lies at the mouths of the
8t, Maurice and at the head of tide-water, about midway between
Montreal and Quebec. Opposite lies Doucet's Landing (p. 140; ferry).
104 M. (1.) Champlain. — 109 M. (I.) Batiscan (p. 140), with
two lighthouses. — 116 M. (1.) 8te,Anne de la Perade, with a large
church. — 124 M. (r.) St.Jean des ChaUlons. — 129 M. (I.) Gron-
dines. — 137 M. (r.) Lot6mler«. — 138 M. (1.) Deachambault (p. 140).
143 M. (1.) Portneuf, Opposite is Point Platonj near which is
the residence of Sir H. G. Joly de LotbiniSre. The river bends to
the right and forms the Bichelieu Rapids, The scenery improves,
the Laurentide Mts, (p. 139) approaching the river on the left.
163 M. (1.) Les EcureuilSy near the mouth of the Jacques Cartier
River (v. UO),
160 M. (1.) Pointe aux Trembles^ a small village where many
Quebec ladies took refuge during the siege of the city by Wolfe (1759)
and were captured by his grenadiers (comp. Sir J, M, Le Moine'a
'Tourist's Note-book').
167 M. (1.) St. Augustin, — 173 M. (1.) Cap Rouge (pronounced
'Carouge') lies at the mouth of the river whose valley forms the W.
boundary of the Quebec plateau (comp. p.. 157). Jacques Cartier
wintered here in 1540-41, and Roberval made an unsuccessful at-
tempt to establish a settlement here a few months later (see p. 147).
About 1500 of Wolfe's troops descended with the tide from Cap
Rouge to Wolfe's Cove on the morning of Sept. 13th, 1759 (p. 147).
Nearly opposite is the mouth of the Chauditre (p. 141). The steamer
here passes under the flue steel bridge of the Grand Trunk Pacific
Railway (see p. 307).
Quebec now soon comes into sight, magnificently situated on a
rocky plateau rising perpendicularly from the river. To the left, at
SiUeryj is Wolfe's Cove (p. 154), where the famous landing was ef-
fected in 1759. The cove may be identified from the steamer by the
tall chimney standing at its mouth. The N. shore is lined with
timber 'booms' and rafts. As we pass Cape Diamond we see, high
up on the cliff , a large inscription indicating the spot, on the roa^
below, where Montgomery fell (p. 148). Opposite is Point LSvit
(p. 157).
180 M. Quebec, see p. 145.
t The final t is sounded by the French Canadians in proper names
of this kind.
yGoogk
yGoogk
yGoogk
yGoogk
yGoogk
145
30. Quebec.
Arrival. Travellers arriving by the lines on the North Bank (RR. 29a,
29d) run into the Canadian Pacific Railway Station (PI. E, 8), on the N. side of
the city. Passengers by the S. Shore Lines (RR. 29b, 29c) are ferried across
from Livi* (p. 157) to the Ferry Wharf (PI. F, 4). The St. Lawrence River
Steamers (R. 29e) lie to at the Champlain Market Wharf (PI. F, 4). These
are in the lower part of the town, from which the upper town, with the
hotels, etc., is reached by steep streets or flights of steps crossing the lines
of fortification. Hotel Omnibuses (25 c.) and Cah$ (see below) meet all the
chief trains and steamers.
Hotels. ♦Chateau Frontbnao (PI. a \ F, 4), a picturesque building on
Dnfferin Terrace, commanding beautiful views, and fitted up in a tasteful
and homelike style, $4-7 (reduced rates in winter; apt to be somewhat
crowded in Aug.); New St. Lodis Hotel (PI. c; E, 4), 31 St. Louis St.,
near Duflferin Terrace, $272-4-, Victobia (PI. e; E, 3), Palace St., from
$2Va; Clarendon (PI. b; E, 4), in a quiet situation at the corner of Garden
and St. Anne Sts., $21/2-4; Kino Edwabd Hotel, 9 Desjardins or Garden St.
(PI. E, 4), $iy5r3, R. from $1; Blanchabd's (PI. f; F, 4), in the Lower
Town, facing Notre Dame des Victoircs (p. 155), $ 1V2-2.— Boarding Houses
($7-10 a week): Mitt JoneSy 41 D'Auteuil St.; Miss Bickell, 3 St. Louis St.;
Mitt Silly 40 Desjardins St.; Mrs. DougkUy 18 St. Anne St.; Miss Tremaine,
10 St. Ursule St. ; Mrs. Henchey^ 33 St. Anne St. ; and many others. Fu^'nished
Lodgingi are also obtainable.
Restaurants. At the hotels ; Auditorium ^ 144 St. John St., cor. of Glacis
St. ; Valiquet, Fabrique St. ; Clttb VenddmBy 37 St. Joseph St., St. Roch. — The
Little Shopy in the old Duke of Kent's House, 25 St. Louis St. (near St. Louis
Hotel), for afternoon tea (old furniture, relics, woollens, etc., for sale).
Sleetrio Tramways traverse the chief thoroughfares and pass all the
principal buildings of the city. They form two complete circuits, one in
the upper and one in the lower town , connected by transverse lines at
Palace Hill and the Cdte d'Abraham (PI. D, 3). Fare 5c., incl. transfer.
Carriages ('Wagons') with two horses, within the town, per drive, for
1/4 hr., 1-2 pers. 50 c, 3-4 pers. 75 c. ; for 1/2 hr., 65 c, 75 c. : per hour $ 1 and
$1V4. With one horse, 25 c., 40 c., 40 c., 60 c, 75 c., $ 1. The Caliche
(or calash) is a curious high two-wheeled vehicle for two persons, with
the driver perched on a narrow ledge in front. For each trunk 10 c. j smaller
articles free. Fare and a half between midnight and 4 a.m. Longer drives
according to bargain. The drivers ('carters*) urge the horses by the cry
'marche done*. The best carriages are obtained in the Upper Town, the
cheapest in the Lower Town.
ferries ply every 10 min. (wharf, PI. F, 4) to LMt (fare 3 c. in sum-
mer, 10 c. in winter) and at frequent intervals to Sillery (p. 155 ; 10 c),
8t. Romuald (p. 167), and the Isle of Orleans (p. 167).
Steamers run regularly from Quebec to Montreal (daily, at 5.30 p.m.;
R. 29e.) ; to Oasp4 (p. 91), Charlottetoton (p. 98), Summerside (p. 100), and Pictou
(p. 60); to the Sagttenay (R. 33); to various small ports on the St. Lawrence;
to Liverpool^ Glasgow^ and Antwerp (see R. 1) ; to London ; to Bermuda and
the West Indies^ etc.
Shops. Furriers: Renfrew dt Co., 35 Buade St.; Paquet, 165 St. Joseph
St. — Sporting and Fishing Gear: Chinic Hardware Co., cor. of St. Peter
and Mountain Hill Sts.; Young^ Bridge St. Ill; Shaw & Co., St. John and
Sous-le-Fort Sts.; J. P. Bertrand. cor. of St. Joseph and Dorchester Sts.
Places of Amusement. Auditorium (PI. E, 3), St. John St. ; Tara Hail,
119 St. Anne St. ; Jacques Cartier Hall, St. Roch.
An Elevator (3 c. ; PI. F, 4) runs from Little Champlain St. (Lower
Town) to Dufiferin Terrace.
TTnited States Consul, Mr, Wm, W. Henry, 66 St. Ursule St.
Post Office (PI. F, 4) , at the corner of Buade and Du Fort Sts. (8-4).
Probably the best general account of (Quebec is 'Quebec under Two
Flags*, by A. G Doughty and N. E. Dionne ($2 50). Small guidebooks (25 c.
each) are issued by E. T. D. Chambers and F. Carrel. .. ^^ C^
' ^ Digitized by \
Baedeebb's Canada. 3rd Edit.
146 Route 30. QUEBEC. Situation.
Clubs. GarrUon Club (PI. E, 4), 48 St. Louis St. *, St. Lows Clttb (PI. E, 4),
nearly opposite the St. Louis Hotel (p. 145); QuAee Riding CMby Ste. Foye
Road, 1 M. from the Toll Gate (PI. B, C, 3), for hunting, etc.
Queb$c^ superbly situated on a piomontory formed by the con-
fluence of the St. Lawrence and the 8U Choflety is, perhaps, the most
picturesque city in North America, appealing at once to the most
blas^ tourist by the striking boldness of its site, the romance of its
history, and the extraordinary contrast of its old-world appearance
and population with the new world around it. It is now also fre-
quented in winter, for the sake of its winter scenery and sports.
It consists of a Lower Totm, lying on the narrow strips of leyel
land fringing the ri^rer banks, and of an Upper Toton, perched on the
top of a rocky bluff, rising almost vertically on both sides to a height
of 200-350 ft. above the water. [The name *Lower Town', however,
does not technically include the large districts of St Roch and St,
Sauveur; comp. pp. 156, 157.] In shape the city is a triangle,
bounded by the two rivers and the Plains of Abraham (p. 154). The
older portion of the Upper Town is still surrounded by a massive
wall, but the city has now spread considerably to the W. of the
fortifications. At the S. angle of the wall, on the highest point of
the plateau, is the famous Citadel (p. 149).
'Unexampled for picturesqueness and magnificence of position on the
American continent, and for the romance of her historic associations, Quebec
sits on her impregnable heights a queen among the cities of the KewWorld.
At her feet flows the noble St. Lawrence, the fit highway into a great
mpire, here narrowed to a couple Of miles^ breadth (really less than 1 V.
— Editor), though lower down the waters 'widen to a score of miles, and
at the gulf to a hundred. From the compression of the great river at this
spot the city derives it« name, the word signifying, in the native Indian
tongue, the Strait. On the east of the city, along a richly fertile valley, flows
the beautiful St. Obarles, to join it« waters with those of the great river.
The mingled waters divide to enclasp the fair and fertile Isle of Orleans.
The city as seen from a distance rises stately and solemn, like a
grand pile of monumental buildings. Clustering houses, tall, irregular, with
high - pitched roofs, crowd the long Iftie of shore and climb ' the rocky
heights. Great piles of stone churches, colleges, and public buildings,
crowned with gleaming minarets, rise above the mass of dwellings. The
clear air permits the free use of tin for the roofs and spires, and the dark
stone-work is relieved with gleaming light. Above all rise the long dark
lines of one of the world's famous citadels, the Gibraltar of America'.
(Charlet Marshall,)
Quebec, with 68,840 inhab., was the third city of the Dominion
of Canada at the census of 1901, though now, doubtless, outstripped
by Winnipeg (p. 245). Of its inhabitants nine-tenths are French
and Roman Catholic. The chief business of the city is the exportation
of timber (comp. p. 148), grain, and cattle. It is the port of entry of
the Atlantic steamers in summer, and the landing-place of immi-
grants. Various manufactures are carried on in St. Roch. The streets,
as a rule, are narrow and irregular, and the quaint houses resemble
those of the older French provincial towns. The best shops are in
St. Joseph St. and Crown St., in St. Roch, and in or near St. John
St., Fabrique St., and Buade St., in the Upper Tows* ,
History. QUEBEC. 30. Route. 147
History. In historic interest Quebec almost rivals Boston among the
cities of the New World, and it excels the New England city in the fact
that its historic sites are constantly in view and have not been obscured
by later alterations. When Jacques Cartier (see p. 128) ascended the St.
Lawrence in 1585 he found the Indian town of Stadaeona occupying part
of the pre5>ent site of Quebec, and spent the winter in huts erected near
the Dorchester Bridge (PI. E, 1). On returning to France he carried with
him the chief Bonn aeona^ who unfortunately died in Europe. On his second
visit, in 1541, Cartier wintered at Cap Rouge (p. 144). An unsuccessful attempt
at settlement was made by the Sieur de Roberval in 1549. The real founder
of Quebec was Chamolain (p. 129; comp. p. 151), who in 1608 established a
small post here, which gradually added agricultural settlers to the original
fur-traders. In 1629 the little settlement was captured by Sir David Kirke
(or KeriO, but it was restored to France three years later. In 1663 Quebec
contained about 800 inhabitants. A little later (1690 and 1711) two un-
successful attempts were made by English fleets to capture the city. In the
first case Sir William Phippt^ Governor of Massachusetts, was defied by Gover-
nov Frontenac and retired without doing serious damage. In 1711 the fleet
under Sir Hovedm Walier was wrecked at Egg Island (p. 4; comp. p. 68).
In 1759, however, Quebec finally came into the possession of Great
Britain through the daring of General Wolfe and a victory described by
Major Wood (see below) as marking ^three of the mightiest epochs of
modem times — the death of Greater France, the coming of age of Greater
Britain, and the birth of the United States'.f The British fleet, under
Adm. Saunders^ anchored off the Island of Orleans (p. 157) on June 26th.
The French army under .the Marquis de Monteahn^ 13,000 strong, was en-
camped on the shore at Beauport (p. 168). Gen. Monckton seized the heights
of L^vis and from them bombarded the city. On July 9th Wolfe established
a camp at Montmorency (p. 159), and on July 31st he attacked the French
lines, and was repulsed with heavy losses. A long delay then ensued owing
to Wolfe's illness, but on the night of Sept. 12-I3th the English troops, who
had in the meantime been carried by the ships above Quebec, stole down
the river in boats under cover of the darkness, effected a landing at the
Foulon (now Wol/e*s Cove) below Sillerp (p. 156), scaled the apparently in-
accessible cliffs, surprised and overpowered the French sentinels, and form-
ed their line of battle on the Floins of Abraham (p. 154). Montcalm hastened
across the St. Charles, and battle was joined by 10 a.m. (Sept. iSth). Both
leaders, as is well known, fell on the field, Wolfe dying on the spot (p. 154),
while Montcalm, mortally wounded, was carried into Quebec (p. 154). The
British were successful after a short struggle \ the French troops retreated,
and the city surrendered on Sept. 18th. According to the official reports the
numbers actually engaged were 3110 British (including 200 left at the Anse
au Foulon or Wolfe's Cove) and 5000 French, the latter number including
Indians. The following spring Gen. Murray^ left in command at Quebec,
was defeated on the Plains of Abraham by a French army of 10,000 men
under De Ldvis and was besieged behind the city-walls until relieved by an
English fleet on May 15th. Comp. Parkman^s ^Wolfe and Montcalm% the
Altbi Casgrain^s ^Montcalm et Levis', Vol. IV of Kingsford's *History of
Canada'. Dr. James Douglas's *01d France in the New World' (1905), Dr. A. 0,
Doughty s 'Siege of Quebec' (6 vols.), and Major William Wood's 'The Fight
for Canada' (Sth, definitive ed., 1^5 ; Amer. ed., 1906).
In 1775 Gen. Benedict Arnold made his famous march through the
Chaudiire Valley (p. 21) and reached the Heights of Abraham by the way
Wolfe had pointed out (Nov. 14th). On Dec. 1st he was joined by Qen.
Montgomery^ who took the command; and on Dec. 31st the Americans
+ Major Wood points out in a very interesting and convincing manner
how largely this victory depended on the naval power of Great Britain,
Wolfe's army being 'nothing else but a great landing-party'. The tradition
that Wolfe recited Gray's *Elegy' as the boats dropped down the stream
is wrong. He recited the Elegy while reconnoitring irom a boat, on the
afternoon before, adding, 'Gentlemen, I would rather have written that
poem than beat the French to-morrow\ ^OOqIc
10* ^
148 Route 30. QUEBEC. Dufferir. Terrace,
made a determined b.ut yain attempt to take the city, Montgomery falling
before a barricade in Ghamplain St. (spot now marked by a bronze tablet).
Comp. Vol. VI. of Kingsforcrs 'History of Canada*.
Since then the history of Quebec has been comparatively uneventful,
though it has been visited by many destructive conflagrations and by
several severe epidemics of cholera. For some years it was the capital
of United Canada (p. xxiii), and in the old Parliament House here, in 1864,
took place the famous Confederation Debate , following the congress at
Gharlottetown (p. 99). The progress of Quebec has been by no means so
rapid as that of other large Canadian and American towns, its population
rising slowly from 42,052 in 1852 to 62,446 in 1881, since which it has
been nearly stationary.
The -'Royal William"*, the first vessel to cross the Atlantic wholly
under steam (1833), was built at Quebec in 1831.
The Province of Quebec has an area of 347,350 sq. M. (about thrice
that of the British Isles), with an extreme length of 1000 M. and an extreme
width of 600 M. In shape it is roughly triangular, the base abutting to
the S.W. on Ontario while the apex extends to the N.E. to the Strait of
Belle Isle. On the E. it is bounded by New England and New Brunswick,
while to the K. and N.E. it marches with Ungava and Labrador. The St.
Lawrence divides it into two very unequal parts, the portion cut off to the
S.E. of the river being only about 50,000 sq. M. in extent. The most fer-
tile part of the province is the plain of the St. Lawrence, of which 10,000
sq. M. are within Quebec; and the ordinary cereals and roots, hay, apples,
plums, and various other crops are successfully cultivated. To the H.
extends the huge and rocky Laurentian plateau, with its vast forests and
innumerable lakes. To the S.E. of the St. Lawrence is the extension of
the Appalachian system known as the Notre Dame Range, presenting an
undulating surface and comprising much land suitable for agriculture or
cattle-raismg. Agriculture is the chief occupation of the population, and
the lumber- business is also important. The province contains no coal, but
asbestos, phosphates of lime, copper, gold, iron, and other metals are ob-
tained in larger or smaller quantities. Fishing is carried on in the Gulf
and Estuary of St. Lawrence. The manufactures of the province, which
are steadily increasing in importance, include leather, cloth, cotton and
woollen goods, iron and hardware, sugar, chemicals, soap, etc. In 1901
their total value was $152,611jl^. The trade of Quebec, owing to its po-
sition on the St. Lawrence, is very important. Other large navigable
streams are the Ottawa, the Richelieu, the St. Maurice, and the Saguenay.
In 1901 Quebec contained 1,648.898 inhab., about four-fifths of whom were
French. — Quebec was originally settled by the French (comp. pp. 129, 147,
90), and it was not till after the American Revolution that any large num-
ber of British colonists established themselves here (comp. p. 47). At the
time of the British conquest (1763) the name of Quebec extended to the
whole of Canada or New France, outside of the Acadian provinces; but
in 1791 it was divided into the two provinces of Upper and Lower Canada
(comp. p. 192). These were re-united, as the Province of Canada, in 1841,
and m 1867, on the establishment of Confederation, the province of Quebec
assumed its present name and form. Perhaps the most notable fact in the
later history of the province has been the extraordinary increase of the
French Canadians, who did not number more than 70,000 at the cession of
Canada. Large numbers of them have migrated to New England.
The stranger in Quebec should undoubtedly begin his yisit with
a walk round the walls and the view from Dufferin Terrace.
*Diifferiii Terrace (PI. E, F, 6, 4) consists of a huge wooden plat-
form, ^4 M. long and 60-70 ft. wide, erected on the edge of the cliffs
on the S.E. side of the city, 185 ft. above the Lower Town and the
St. Lawrence. The site was levelled and the first platform was erected
by the Earl of Durham, but the Terrace was rebuilt and enlarged in
the governorship of the Earl of Dufferin and opened to the public in
Citadel. QUEBEC. 30. Route. 149
1879 by the Marquis of Lome and the Princess Louise. The N. end,
howeyer, is still sometimes called the Durham Terrace. On the Terrace
are five kiosques and a hand-stand (frequent concerts). At its N. end,
adjoining the Chateau Frontenac (p. 150), is a Statue of Champlain
(PL Oh., F4; 1567-1635), by Paul Ohevr^, unveiled in 1898. The S.
end of the Terrace is railed off as dangerous, a disastrous landslide hav-
ing occurred here in 1889. On the W. Dufferin Terrace is adjoined by
the Govbrnor's (tARdbn (PI. E, F, 4), with the Wolfe and Montcalm
Monument (1827), bearing the neat epigrammatic Latin inscription :
Mortem Virtus Communem
Famam Historia
Monumentum Posteiitas
Dedit
The **View from Dufferin Terrace is superb. At our feet are the
winding streets of the Lower Town, including Champlain St., where Mont-
gomery fell (p. 148). Beyond is the noble 8L Launrenee^ here about 1 M.
wide, with its fleets of trading vessels and steamers, its wharves and docks,
its timber- rafts and ^coves*. On the opposite side rise the heights of
Livis (p. 157), with three huge forts (that to the right alone distinctly
visible) and its conspicuous churches and convents. Looking towards the
left (N«E.), we see the confluence of the St. Lawrence and the St. Charles
and the fertile Isle cTOrl^ans (p. 157). Several villages are visible along
the banks of the St. Lawrence, with Cap Tourmente (p. 167) looming dimly
in the distance (35 M.). A cloud of mist marks the site of the Mont-
morency Falls (p. 159). Behind these (to the K.) rise the Laurenlide Mts,
(p. 139). Immediately to the N. of the Terrace are the Post Office and
Laval University. Among the most conspicuous buildings in the Lower
Town are Champlain Market (p. 156), immediately at our feet ; the church
of Notre Dame de* Victoires (p. 155), just to the N.; and the Custom House
(p. 156), at the mouth of the St. Charles.
This view should be seen, not only by daylight, but in the dusk and
also after the city lights are lit.
The Elevator mentioned at p. 145 adjoins the N. end of the Terrace.
From the S. end of Dufferin Terrace the newl*Oitadei "Walk (Pl.E, 5;
fine views), constructed in 19(X), leads round Cape Diamond (p. 144), below
the walls of the Citadel, to the Cove Fields.
In winter a toboggan-slide is erected, reaching from the King's Bastion
to the other end of Dufferin Terrace.
At the S. end of Dufferin Terrace, adjoining Cape Diamond y
the highest point of the plateau (350 ft.), stands the Citadel (PI.
E, 4, 5), a strong fortification, covering 40 acres of ground and dating
in its present form from 1823. It is entered by a road diverging from
St. Louis St. at -Sf^ Louis Gate (see PI. E, 4), ascending across the
glacis to the C^ain Gate, and then leading along the trenches. It may
be reached from the S. end of Dufferin Terrace by paths ascending
across the green glacis and steps descending to the moat through
a redoubt. No order of admission is now required, but at the Dal-
hotuie Gate, leading from the moat to the inner works, the visitor
is met by a soldier to act as guide (fee discretionary).
The present Fortifications of Quebec were constructed in 1823-32 and
followed to some extent the lines of the French works of 1716. The earlier
works enclosed a much smaller area. In the French period there were
apparently three Citp Gates, one of which, the St. Louis Gate, is now repre-
sented by a modern structure, while the St. John and Paiaw Gates have
been entirely swept away. The Hope and Prescott Gates were added by
the English, but no longer exist. Kent Gate, to which Queen Victoria con-
150 Route 30, QUEBEC. 8t. John Gate.
tributed, is wholly modern. See also below. The Citadel and other forti-
fications of Quebec, being by no means equal to the demands of modem
warfare, were reinforced some years ago by the erection of three detached
forts at L^vis (p. 157). Those in turn were recognized as inadequate, and
two new and powerful forts are being constracted at Beaumont (p. 166),
9 M. below the city, to command the channel of the St. Lawrence.
Since the withdrawal of the British troops in 1871 the Citadel has
been garrisoned by Canadian troops. It encloses a large parade and drill
ground, surrounded by barracks and magazines under the walls. ITumerous
heavy guns are mounted on the ramparts. In the centre is a diminutive
cannon captured at Bunker Hill (1775). The large stone building is the
Officers'' Quarters^ at the E. end of which, overlooking the river, is the
O&vemor-OeneraVs Residence^ usually occupied by him for short visits every
year. The W. Ramparts overlook the Plains of Abraham (p. 104), and
the **View from the King^s BatHon, at the N.E. angle of the ramparts,
rivals that from Dufferin Terrace.
We now return to the St. LouiB Gate (PI. E, 4), a handsome
structure in a medieval style erected on the site of the old gate in
1878-9, ascend the steps, and begin here our circuit of the ♦Walls
(3 M.). About 15 yds. to the S. of the gate (inside) is a tablet
marking the grave of Montgomery's companions (p. 147). To the
right, within the wails, lies the Esplanade (PI. E, 4), with a few
mortars and dismounted cannon and a South African War Monument
(PI. A.W; E, 4), by McCarthy. To the left rises the large new Par-
liament Building (p. 153). In about 4 min. we reach the Kent Gate
(PL E, 4), a Norman structure erected in 1879 to relieve the pres-
sure of traffic (see p. 149). It was named in honour of the Duke of
Kent, father ,of Queen Victoria, who lived in Quebec from 1791 to
1794. To the left is the Montcalm Market (PI. E, 3), to the right
the Church of the Congregation, one of the oldest in the city. We
now obtain a view, in front, of the St. Charles River and the
Laurentide Mts. The St. John Gate (PI. E, 3), erected in 1867 on
the site of one of the original French gates, was removed in 1897 to
make way for the electric tramway. Beyond its site we have to leave
the walls for a space, this angle of the fortifications being occupied
for Government purposes. We regain the line of the walls at Palace
St. , where we cross the gap left by the removal of the old Palace
Gate (Pl.E, 3 ; see p. 149) and have the huge mass of the Hdtel Dieu
(p. 152) to the right. As we proceed we overlook the quaint Lower
Town, with its narrow streets and numerous factories. Famille
St. marks the site of the old Hope Gate (PI. F, 3; see p. 149). A
little farther on (about V4 l^r.'s walk from St. John's Gate) we reach
the "^Grand Battery (Pi. F, 4) at the N.E. angle of the walls, on the
cliff named Sault-au-Matelot, another fine point of view, overlooking
the Docks and the confluence of the rivers. Behind us, at this point,
are the solid buildings of Laval University (p. 152). Our course now
leads towards the S. to Dufferin Terrace and the Citadel (seep. 149).
The Prescott Gate (p. 149) was at Mountain Hill St. (PL F, 4).
At the N. end of Dufferin Terrace stands the *Cli&teaii Tron-
tenac Hotel (p. 145), a large and handsome structure, erected in
1893 in the French Baronial style, from the designs of Bruce BricCj
Anglican Cathedral, QUEBEC. 30. Route. 151
and consisting mainly of light-red brick, with copper roofs. It occu-
pies the approximate site of the old French Fort 8t, LouU^ built by
Ohamplain in 1620 and burned down in 1834, a stone from which,
bearing a Maltese cross, has been immured above the main entrance.
The walls of the dining-room are hung with good tapestry, repre-
senting the foundation of Rom6 ; and the other interior decorations
are also in excellent taste. This fine hotel faces the Placb d^A&mes
(PI. F, 4), the parade-ground and fashionable promenade of the
French period. On the W. side of the Place is the Anglican Cathe-
dral (PI. F, 4), a plain edifice of 1804, with a spire 150 ft high. It
contains communion-plate given by George III, the colours of the
69ih Regiment, and mural memorials to Bishop Mountain, first incum-
bent of the see, the Duke of Richmond (d. 1819), Governor-General
of Canada (buried below the altar) , and others. Adjacent are the
Rectory and the Chapel of All Saints. To the S. of the Cathedral, at
the corner of St. Louis St., is the handsome Court House (PI. F, 4).
The short Du Fort St. leads to the N. from the Place d'Armes
to the Post Ofaoe (PL F, 4; p. 145), a substantial stone building at
the comer of Buade St., erected in 1873.
The Poit Office oecnpie* the site of the old Chien cTOr Building; and
a stone from the old building, bearing the carved and gilded figure of a
dog, haa heen built into the front-wall. Below is the inscription:
*Je suis un chien qui ronge Tos
En le rongeant je prends mon repos.
Un temps viendra qui n^est pas venu
Que je mordrai qui m^aura mordu/
The story goes that the house belonged to a rich merchant named
Fhilibert^ who had been wronged by Jntendant Bigot (see p. 156) and chose
this way of expressing his hatred. Philibert was afterwards killed by an
officer quartered on the Chien d'Or by Bigot, but was revenged by his
aon, who slew his father's murderer in Pondicherry many years later.
Comp. 'The Golden Dog*, a historical novel by W. Kirhy. Dr. Doughty
has, however, shown, in bis *Quebec under Two Flags* (p. 146), that this
version of the story is not quite accurate. At a later date the house was
occupied as an inn by Sergeant Miles FrenUce^ whose pretty niece, Miss
Simpson^ so captivated Commander Horatio Nelson of H. M. S. ^Albemarle*
in 1782, that the future hero of Trafalgar had to be spirited away by his
friends to prevent him marrying her.
In front of the Post Office is a new Monument to Bishop Laval
(PL L., F 4 ; p. 152), by Hubert, to be completed in 1908.
Following Buade St. towards iHe left, we pass the Archbishop^s
Palace and the Basilica (PL F. 4) or Roman Catholic Cathedral,
founded in 1666 but dating in its present form from the second half
of the 18th century. It occupies in part the site of the Chapelle de
la RecouvrarusCj built by Champlain in 1633.
The interior is gay with white paint and gilding. Among the numerous
paintings are a ^Crucifixion, by van Dych (on the first pillar on the N.
side of the nave, next the choir); a St. Paul, by Carlo Maratti (in the
choir) ; and examples of B^tout^ Blanehard^ Vignon^ and Plamondon. The
high-altar-piece is apparently a copy of Lebrun. The bishops of Quebec,
including Laval, and four French governors, including Frontenac, are com-
memorated by tablets. The collection of vestments may be seen on appli-
cation to the verger. The red hat of Card. Taschereau (d. 1808) hangs from
the roof, in front of the chancel. Digitized by GoOglc
152 Route 30. QUEBEC. Laval UniversUy.
According to the most recent investigations the Chapelle de Champlain^
built in 1636 over the tomb of the hero, lay in the Oimetihre de la Mon-
ag ne, to the E. of the Basilica, below the site of the old Prescot^ Gate.
Opposite the front of the Basilica is the City Hall (Pi. E, F, 4),
an Imposing building, 200 ft. long, erected in 1894-96. It occupies
the site of a Jesuits' College, founded in 1637. One of its fine rooms
contains a collection of portraits of distinguished Canadians.
To the N. of the Basilica extend the huge buildings of the ♦Sem-
inary of Quebec and ♦Laval University (PI. F, 4).
The Seminary of Quebec was founded in 1663 by Francois de Mont-
morencv Laval, first Bishop of Quebec, and the picturesque group of build-
ings composing it date from 1666 to 1880. It is divided into Le Grand
Siminaire, for the education of priests, and Le Petit Siminaire, for the
general education of boys. In 1852 the Seminary founded the llniverzity
of Lavaly which received a royal charter the same year and one from Pope
Pius IX. in 1876. It possesses Faculties of Arts, Theology, Law, and Medi-
cine. The Seminary is attended by 500, the University by 800 students.
The main entrance to the University is at the Grand Battery (p. 150), but it
is also reached from the Seminary through the Theological Hall and Priests*
Dwellings. For the Laval University buildings at Montreal, see p. 138.
The University, which contains many objects of interest, is open to
visitors daily. Sun. and holidays excepted (fee 25 c. ; Thurs., 1-4, 10 c). The
PicTUBE Gallekt (catalogue provided) is, perhaps, the most important in
Canada, and contains works by or ascribed to Van Dyck (No. 74), Teniers
(90, 91), Tintoretto (20), Salvator Rosa (18, 116, 117), Vemet (123), Albani (103),
Honthorst (49-53), Parroeel (97, 98), Romanelli (11), Simon Vouet (12), Boucher
(104, 105, 110), L. Carracd (29), Pierson (89. Portrait of Calvin), Schalcken (80),
Opie (78), Paul Bril (94), A. van Ostade (131), and Domenichino (120). In the
Legtdbb Hall are works by Maratta (4), N. Poussin (10), Baroccio (22), and
Schidone (29), and in the Fibst Antbboom is a landscape by Gainsborough
(11). — The Begbptiom Hall contains interesting portraits (Bishop Laval,
Queen Victoria, etc.) and other pictures. — The Minbbalooigal and Geolog-
iGAE. Museum illustrates the mineral resources of the Dominion and includes
a good collection of Canadian and foreign marbles. — The Ethnological
Museum includes an interesting series of Indian skulls. — The Collections
OF Katubal Histobt, Scientific Instbuments, and Coins also repay
inspection. — The Museum of Religion contains the tomb and fragments
of the coffin of Bishop Laval (see above), autographs of Louis XIV. and
Colbert, and other souvenirs. — The •Libbaby, with 150,(X)0 vols., is very
rich in works relating to Canada. Among its rarities are works given by
Queen Victoria and a Book of Hours with the signature of Mary, Queen
of Scots. — The Pbomotion Hall, in which the graduation-ceremonies
take place, can seat 1500 people. — The Seminabx Chapel contains an
Ascension by Philippe de Champaigne^ a modem Roman mosaic (after Titian's
^Mater Dolorosa*), presented by Pope Leo Xlll., and some relics of San
Carlo Borromeo.
The American officers taken prisoner in the siege of 1775 (p. 147) were
confined in Le Petit St^minaire.
Another of the great Roman Catholic institutions of Quebec is
the large *H6telDieu Convent and Hospital (Fl: E,F, 8), the impos-
ing buildings of which are seen a little to the W. (entr. in Palace St.).
It was founded by the Duchess d*Aiguillon, niece of Card. Richelieu,
who placed it under the charge of the Hospitali^res nuns. The build-
ings date from 1664 to 1762, and have been lately extended.
The Convent Church (entered from Charlevoix St.) contains a prayin'g
Monk by Zurharan, a St. Bruno by Mustache Le Sueur, and other paintings.
Good singing at the Sun. services. — Among the relics of the convent are
a silver bust enshrining the skull of Jean de Breboeu/, si^suit missionary
:ed by VjOO
Ursuline Convent, QUEBEC. 30. Route, 153
tortured to death by the Iroquois in 1649, and the bones of his fellow-
martyr Lakmant (comp. ParkmaiCt ^Jesuits in Korth America*).
On a house at the comer of Palace St. and St. John St. (P1.E, 81
is a wooden figure of General Wolfe, erected a few years ago in
place of one dating fr<^m 1771. The old effigy is now in the reading-
room of the Literary '& Historical Society (see below). — We may
now follow St. John St. to St. Stanislas St. and proceed to the left
to the handsome Methodist Church (PI. E, 3, 4). — At the corner of
St. Stanislas St. and Dauphin St. is Morrin College (PI. E, 4), a
gmall Protestant institution, affiliated to McGill University (p. 135).
This college was originally used as a prison, and the old cells are
still shown in the N. wing. — Morrin College is also the home of the ^Littrarp
of the Qu^ec Literary and HMorieal Society.^ containing a valuable collection
of books relating to Canada (25,000 vols.).
Descending St. Anne St. towards the E. and turning to the right
into Garden or Des Jardins St. , we reach the *TJrBnline Convent
(PI. £,4; Tisltors admitted in summer to parlours and chapel, 9-11
and 1-3.30). The convent was founded in 1639 by Mme. de la Peltrie
and Marie de I'lncamation, the *St. Theresa of the New World', The
present buildings, which, with the enclosed gardens, cover seven
acres of ground, date from 1686.
The chapel (rebuilt in 1908) contains paintings by Philippe de Qiampaigne^
Sesiout^ Prudhomme, and other French artists, and two beautiful ivory
crucifixes. Montcalm (p. 154) is buried here, in a grave made by a shell
which burst in the chapel during the bombardment of 1759. His skull is
preserved under gla^s. The shrines contain bones from the Roman Cata-
combs. Before the statue of the Virgin burns a votive lamp which has
not been extinguished since it was given by Madeleine de Repentigny in
1717. The present jewelled holder was sent from France in 1903 by de-
scendants of tile Repentigny family. Specimens of embroidery and painting
by the nuns may be obtained in the reception-rooms.
No. 65 St. Anne St.. overlooking the Ursuline Convent Garden, is the
house where Mr. Howells lived while collecting material for ^A Chance
Acquaintance". Comp. chap. iv. of that charming volume.
The short Donnacona St. leads back to St. Louis Stbbet (PI.
E, 4), which we now follow to the right (W.), past the Garrison Club
(PI. E, 4). Montgomery (p. 147) was laid out in the house formerly
on the site of No. 72 (on the right). We soon reach the St Louis
Gate (p. 149), just outside which, to the right, in a commanding
situation, 280 ft. above the St. Lawrence, stand the Parliament and
Departmental Buildings (PI. D, 4), an imposing French Benais-
sance edifice in grey stone, erected in 1878-92. The central tower
is 160 ft. high.
The bronze group in front of the building, the statues in niches on
the fa9ade, and the groups on the roof are the work of the talented
native sculptor Hibert, Maisonneuve (p. 129), Cartier (p. 128), and Champlain
(p. 147) are commemorated in conspicuous inscriptions.
The Interior is handsomely fitted up, with wooden panelling on the
staircase bearing the coats - of - arms of distinguished French Canadian
families (not always quite accurate). The rooms of the Legielative Assembly
and the Legislative Council are spacious and convenient (public admitted to
the galleries; reserved seats on application to the Speaker).
Visitors should ascend to the top of the tower, which affords a
splendid ••View of the city, the two rivers, etc. (comp. pp. 149, 146).
154 Route 80, QUEBEC. Wolfe's Monument,
To the left are the Skating Rink (PID, A) and Drill Hall (P1.D,4).
In front of the last is a Monument to Major Short and Sergeant Wal-
lick (PL D, 4), who perished in a gallant attempt to stem a conflagra-
tion in 1889. We now continue our walk along the Gbandb All^b
(PI. A-D, 4), in order to visit the battlefield of 1769. The open
ground behind the houses to the left, between the road and the edge
of the cliff, is known as the Covb Fields (PI. 0, D, 4, 5) and is used by
golfers. It is Government property. The remains of old fortifications
traceable here are all of British origin, dating from 1783, 1804, and
181 1 . The two Martello Towers (PI. C, 4, 5), at the W. end of the Cove
Fields, date from about 1812. [There are other two towers to the N. j
PI. 0, 3. The large building near Tower 1 is a Rifle Factory (PI. C, 5).J
A steep flight of steps descends from the Cove Fields to the pro-
longation of Champlain St. (p. 156). To the right is the Franciscan
Convent (PL C, 4), erected in 1897, near which Montcalm's forces
assembled on Sept. 13th, 1769 ; and on the same side lie the grounds
and club-house of the Quebec Amateur Athletic Association, About
Va M. beyond the Martello Towers is the District Oaol (PI. B, 4), a
large and massive building. To the N. of this (reached from the Grande
AlMe by the road to the left a little short of the toll-gate, about
1 M. from the St. Louis Gate) stands Wolfe's Monument (PL B, 4),
a tall column rising from a square base and bearing the inscription :
'Here died Wolfe victorious, Sept. 13. 1759'. A little to the S.E. of
the Gaol is the Quebec Observatory (PL B, C, 5).
To theW. of this point stretch the Plains of Abraham (PL A, B,
4, 5), so called after Abraham Martin, royal pilot of the St. Lawrence,
who owned some ground in this vicinity about the middle of the
17th century. Wolfe's Cove (p. 144) is about IV4M. farther on, below
the cliff. The Racecourse (PL A, B, 4, 5), which occupies part of the
Plains, has been converted into a Public Park,
At the date of the battle the Plains stretched without fence or en-
closure up to the walls of the town and to the Cdte Ste. Genevieve. The
sarface was sprinkled with bushes, and the flanking woods were denser
than at present, so affording more cover to the French and Indian marks-
men. The nofition of the front of the French army at the opening of
the battle (10 a.m.) may be indicated by a line drawn from MarteUo Tower
Ko. 4 (PL C, 8) to the St. Lawrence. The British line was about >/« M.
farther to the W., where De Salaberry St. now runs (PL C, 3, 4). The French
then advanced until within 40 paces of the British. Wolfe was at the head
of the British right wing, near the St. Louis Boad, and Montcalm at the
head of the French centre. The battle was hotly contested for about 1/4 hr.,
but the French troops, consisting largely of militiamen, gave way at last
before the impetuous charge of the Louisbourg Grenadiers and 28th Regi-
ment. Wolfe was hit three times, receiving his third and mortal wound
at the moment he gave the order to advance. He fell about 2G0 yds. nearer
Quebec then the Monument, the latter occupying the spot whither he was
carried to breathe his last. Montcalm was first struck by a musket-ball
and then by a discharge of the only field-piece the British had brought
into action. He was carried into Quebec and died about four 0^ clock the
next morning. Comp. pp. 153, 147.
The Battle of Ste. Foye or Foy (April 2Sth, 17C0), in which Gen.
Murray was defeated by the Chevalier de L^vis (see p. 147), took place to the
K. of the Plains of Abraham; and the spot where the struggle was fiercest
Lower Town. QUEBEC. 30, Route, 155
is marked* by the Ste. Foye Monument (PI. Ayd>\ erected in 1860 on the Ste.
Foye road, about 1 M. from the St. John Gate and Vi M. to the N.W. of the
Wolfe Monument. It is inscribed: *Aux Braves de 1760, ^rigd par la So-
cidt^ St. Je:in Bapt'ste de Quebec, i860.' A visit to this point is easily
combined with the excursion to the Wolfe Monument, by following the
second cross-road to the right beyond the latter and returning to town by
the Ste. Foye Boad and St. John St. (a round in all of about 4 M.).
In St. Matthew^s Ohurchyafd (PI. D, 3), in St. John St., is the tomb of
Thomas Scott, brother of Sir Walter and for a time believed to be the author
of 'Wavcrley\ — In St. Cyrille St., a little to the S. of the Sfe. Foye Road,
is the new Jtffrey Hals Hospital (PI. C, 3).
Following the Grande AUtfe for about II/4 M. beyond the Wolfe
Monument , we reach (left) the entrance to the beautiful grounds
of *Spencer Wood, the residence of the Lieutenant-Governor of
Quebec. The cliffs behind the house afford a splendid view , with
Wolfe's Cove (p. 154) lying at our feet.
The grounds of Spencer Wood are adjoined on the W. by those of
Bpenoer G-range (fine vineries), the home of Sir J, M, Le Moine, the author
of numerous interesting works relating to Quebec and Canadian history.
Spencer Wood adjoins ML Hermon Cemetery (Prot) aud St. Pa-
trick's Cemetery, beyond which, 31/2 M. from Quebec, is the village of
SUlery, with its large convent, school-house, and timber-coves. We
may return hence to the city by a small steamer (10 c).
A pleasant afternoon stroll may be enjoyed by taking the steamer from
Quebec to Sillery and following the shady road under the cliffs and along
the river to (2 M.) Wolfe's Cove. Here we ascend the road to the left,
bringing us out on the Grande AU^e, just to the £. of Spencer Wood and less
than 1 M. from the Wulfe Monument (p. 164). This walk affords fine views
and has the historic interest of following the route of Wolfe's forces.
To visit the Lower Town of Quebec, we may follow Mountain
Hill St. or C6te de la Montagne (PI. F,4) and descend to the right
by the picturesque Champlain or Breakneck Steps, which lead to
what is, perhaps, the quaintest and busiest part of the riverine dis-
tricts. Hard by is the unpretentious church of Notre Dame des
Victoires (PI. F, 4), erected close to the site of Ohamplain's origi-
nal Habitation de Quebec (1608 ; p. 147).
The name refers to the deliverance of the city from the English at-
tacks of 1690 and 1711 (p. 147); and tablets on either side of the door
(inside) bear the following inscriptions , which reflect a pleasant light on
the magnanimity of the Government that overlooks them.
1688. Poss ds la Ihrs Pierre par le Marquis de Denonville Oouverneur.
Innocent XI Pape. Louis XIV Roi de France. L*6glise est didiie
b, Venfant Jisus.
1690. Difaite de Vamiral Phips. Uiglise prend le litre de Notre Dame
de la Vietoire.
1711. Dispersion de la flotte de Vamiral Walker. Viglise prend le litre
de N. D. des Victoires.
1709. Incendiie pendant le siige.
1766. Radtie.
i8SS. Restaurie d f occasion du 2iime Centenaire.
Just to the S. of Notre Dame des Victoires is Sous-le-Fort Street
(PI. F, 4) , recalling the narrow mediaeval streets that survive in
Bristol (e. g. the Pithay) and many Continental towns. Sous-le-
Fort St. ends at the foot of the elevator leading to Dufferin Terrace
(PI. F, 4 ; see p. 149), whence Liftic Champlain Street (P1.F,4, 5), the
156 Route 30, QUEBEC.
scene of Montgomery's death (p. 148), leads to the S. along the base
of the cliffs. Between Little Ohamplain St. and the river stands the
large Cliamplain Market (PL F, 4), near the wharves of the river-
steamers. By continuing our walk towards the S. (W.), through
Champlain Street (PL C-E, 5), with a tablet (on the cliff) commem-
orating the 'Undaunted Fifty' who here repulsed the attack of
Montgomery (pp. 147, 148), we may visit some of the large timber
'coves' that line the river farther up.
Moving in the opposite direction (N.) from Notre Dame des
Victoires, we may follow the busy St. Pbtbb Stbbet (PL F, 4), with
its shops , banks , and warehouses. Near the end of St. Peter St.
8t. Andrew Street (Pl.F, G, 4) leads to the right to the Custom House
(PLG,4), a Doric building, at the junction of the St. Lawrence and
the St. Charles. To the N. of this point lies the capacious Louise
Basin (PL F, G, 3), with a wet dock 40 acres in area and a tidal dock
of half that size. On the Louise Embankment (PL F, G, 2, 3), forming
the outer wall of the docks, is the Immigration Office (PL G, 3),
with the barracks in which immigrants are cared for until they can
be forwarded to their ultimate destinations. — Sault-au-Matelot
Street (PL F, 4) and ^Sous-le-Cap Street (PI. F, 3, 4), to the left of
St. Peter St., below the walls, are two of the quaintest old streets
in the city. A tablet in the former commemorates the Canadian force
which here repulsed the attack of Arnold (pp. 147, 148).
St. Paul Street (Pl.F, 3, 4), diverging to the left near the end of
St. Peter St., leads to the W. between the cliff and the docks, pass-
ing near the stations of the Lake St, John (PL F, 3), the Mont-
morency ^ Charlevoix (PL F, 3) , and the C, P, Railway (PL E, 3).
At the corner of Nicolas Street (leading to the left from St.
Paul St.) and St. Valier Street is BoswelVs Brewery (PL E, 3), on the
site of the palace of Intendant Bigot, parts of the old walls of which
may be seen in the court (plan at the Historical Society, p. 163).
The Intendant was the head of the civil administration of the French
colony of Canada, as the Governor was of its military administration.
Bigot, who was appointed Intendant in 1748, did much, by his profligacy,
oppression, extravagance, and dishonesty, to min the resources of the
colony and hasten its fall. Kear the palace stood the so-called ^Friponne*
('swindle'), a large storehouse erected by Bigot to hold the goods arriving
from Bordeaux until sold to the King or the citizens. Gomp. Parkman^s
'Montcalm and Wolfe* (chap. xvii).
St. Paul St. is continued, beyond St. Roch Street (PL E,2, 3), by
St. Joseph Stbeet (PL C-E, 2), forming the dividing line between
the industrial ward of St, Rochj to the right, and the artizans*
dwellings of the Jacques Cartier Ward , to the left. The former
is supposed to occupy the site of Stadacona (p. 147; monument).
The Church of St. Roch (PL D , 2) is a large but uninteresting
edifice. On the banks of the St. Charles, which here makes an
abrupt bend round Hare Point, are the St, Charles Hospital (PL D, 1)
and the large General Hospital (PL C, 1). The latter occupies the
site of the house of the Rtfcollets, in which they received the
ISLAND OF ORLEANS. ^i. Route. 157
Jesuit missionaries in 1626. Close by, on a peninsula formed by a
loop of the St. Oharies River, is the Victoria Park (PI. C, D, 1),
with a monument to Queen Victoria by Marshal Wood. Beyond St.
Roch is the district of St, Sauveur^ with its imposing Church.
The chief points of interest in the Environs of Cluebeo are enumerated
in the following route. A favourite drive leads round 'the plateau of Quebec
(about 20 M.), going out to Cap Rouge (comp. p. 144) by the St. Louis Koad
and returning by the Ste. Foye Road.
From Quebec to Montreal^ see S. 29 ^ to Boston^ see R. 5 ^ to Portland^
see B. 9^ to Lake St. John^ see R. 32^ to the Sagumayy see R. 33^ to Hali-
fax^ see B. 24.
31. Ezcnrsiomi from Quebec.
a. L^via.
Ferry Steamers ply at intervals of about lOmin. from the L4i»U Wharf
(PI. F, 4). not far from the Ghamplain Market, to (>/« M.) LMs (6 min. ^
fare 3 c. m summer, 10 c. in winter).
L^vis or Point L^vifl (KenneheCj Terminw, $ 1-1 Vs? ^« ^- ^9^Vi
a city of (1901) 7783 inhab., is finely situated on the heights on the
E. bank of the St. Lawrence, opposite Quebec, and should be visited,
if for no other reason, on account of the grand *View it affords of
that city. It is the terminus of a branch of the Grand Trunk Railway
and of the Quebec Central Railway (comp. pp. 141, 20), and it is also
a station of the Intercolonial Railway (pp. 140,83). The heights above
the town are now occupied by three enormous forts of earthwork and
masonry, erected some years ago at a cost of nearly $ 1,000,000 each.
So far, however, they have neither been armed nor garrisoned. The
vrive round these forts is interesting and affords a series of delightful
dlews. Excellent views are also afforded by the electric cars, which
mn from the ferry to the market-place and also to St. Joseph and
St. Romuald (see below).* The Lome Graving Docfc,near the N. end
of Ltfvis« is almost 500 ft. long and admits vessels drawing 26-26 ft.
of water. Some of the Churches and Colleges are large and conspicuous
buildings. — Ltfvis is adjoined on the N. by Bierhville and St. Joseph,
and on the S. by South Quebec and St. Romuald or New Liverpool
(3589 inhab.), all sharing in the large lumber-trade of Quebec (direct
ferry, see p. 146). The *Church of St. Romuald is adorned with good
paintings by Lamprecht of Munich.
The Chaudih'e Falls (see p. 141) are 4 M. 1o the S.W. of St. Romuald
(cab 31V«)» but they have been sadly marred by the erection of mills.
About halfWay between St. Romuald and the falls we cross the Chaudi6re
at a point called the 'Basin\ The sail to St. Romuald affords fine views of
the bold shores of the St. Lawrence.
b. Isle of Orleans,
steamers, starting from the Champlain Wharf, ply at frequent intervals
to (4 M.) Ste. PiironiUe, on the ItU of Orleans (Vshr.j fare 10 c).
About 4 M. below Quebec the St. Lawrence is divided into a
N. and a S. channel by the Island of Orleans (Isle d'Orlians)^
20 M. long, 6 M. wide, and 70 sq. M. in area. The short steapaboat
158 Route 31, BEATJPORT. ExcursioM
voyage to it affords, perhaps, tlie best *View of the city of Quebec,
while to the N. are seen Beauport (see below) and the Montmorency
FaUs (p. 159), backed by the Laurentide Mu. The Indian name of
the island was Minego^ and it was called Isle de Bacchus by Jacques
Cartier (1635) on account of the numerous grape-vines he found on
it. Wolfe established part of his camp here during his siege of
Quebec (p. 147). The island is occupied by about 4000 'habitants',
who raise large crops of potatoes, make cheese, and possess fine or-
chards of apples and plums. The steamer calls at 8te, Pitronille de
BeaulieUj a village of 220 inhab., with a pleasant little hotel (Cha-
teau Bel- Air), a park, and other attractions, which draw many
summer- visitors. On the N. shore of the island lie the hamlets
of 8t Pierre and 8t, Famille, on the S. shore those of 8U Fran^oiSf
8t, Jean, and 8t. Laurent. Miranda's Cave, on the S. shore, is a fa-
vourite picnic-resort The churches date mainly from the middle
of last century; the Nunnery of 8t, Famille dates from 1685. Fine
views are obtained of the l>aurentide Mts. from the N. shore.
c. Falls of Montmorency and Ste. Anne de Beauprd.
21 M. RA.ILWAT (Quebec RaUvoay, Lighi^ ds Power Co.) in 1 hr. (return-
fare to Montmorency 20 c, or, including ttie use of the elevator, 30 c. ^ to
Ste. Anne 60 c.)* This railway was originally intended mainly for the ac-
commodation of pilgrims and pilgrimages, but is now also used lai^ely by
tourists. It lies between the road and the riyer. The service is now mainly
electric, though there are also a few sieam trains. This excursion, as far
as the Montmorency Falls, is also often made by road (can*, there &, back
about % 3 for 1-2 persons), and thus both road and railway are described
below. The pedestrian who understands French will find much to interest
him throughout the Cdte de Beaupri. The inns are primitive but clean.
— Gomp. ^Jl Chance Acquaintance", by W. D. EowelU.
a. BoAx> TO Montmorency (6V2 M). We cross the 8t, Charles by
the Dorchester Bridge (PI. E, 1, 2), erected in 1789 and named after the
then Governor-General of Canada. To the left is seen the 8t, Charles
Hospital (p. 156). The road then turns to the right and runs parallel
to the St. Lawrence. It is lined nearly all the way with the cottages
of the ^habitants', generally standing askew to the road so as to
present their gable-end to the E. wind. The visitor will notice the
open-air ovens for baking bread, such as are common throughout
French Canada. Behind the houses are the long narrow strips of their
farm-lands (comp. p. 139), stretching on the right down to the river.
Good views are enjoyed of Quebec, L^vis, and the Isle of Orleans.
To the right lies Maizetets, a farm-house belonging to Quebec Seminary
and forming the regular holiday- resort of the pupils. To the left,
farther on, about 2 M. from Dorchester Bridge, is the large Ptovineial
Lunatic Asylum, On the same side, V2 M. farther on, is a Temper ^
ance Monument. — 1 M. (r.) Church and Presbytery of Beauport, The
church is a large edifice, the handsome towers of which have been
rebuilt since a fire in 1888. Montcalm had his headquarters in 1759
at the manor-house of Beauport, one of the ruinous buildings seen to
Digitized by *
from Quebec, FALLS OF MONTMORENCY. 31, Route, 159
the left, and at the De Scdabtrry Manor, since destroyed. Beauport
is a long straggling village with about 1500 inhabitants.
About 3 M. beyond Beauport Church we reach the entrance to
the Kent House Hotel {^1-^'^ luncheon 75 c., D. $ 1), which was built
as Haldimand House by General Haldimand in 1780 and derives its
present name from having been occupied by the Duke of Kent in
1791-94. It now belongs to the QuebeQ Railway, Light, & Power Co.
and stands in pleasant grounds containing a rustic theatre, a deer-
park, and a menagerie of Canadian wild animals (adm. 25 c; free
to railway-passengers). The hotel commands a view of the falls,
to which a direct path leads.
Beyond the Kent House Hotel the road crosses the Montmorency
River and reaches Bwreau^s Inn, and the grounds on the E. side of
the falls (entr. opposite the inn ; ♦View of Quebec and its environs).
Adm. to the grounds round the falls 25 c. (free to railway passengers),
An interesting collection of historical cannon may be seen from the
road in the grounds of Montmorency Cottage^ near the head of the falls.
The farm-house in which Wolfe lay ill for two weeks, and from which
the wrote his celebrated despatch to Pitt on Sept. 2nd, 1759, is about Vs ^*
beyond Bureau's and 200 yds. down to the right.
b. Railway to Montmorbnot and Stb. Anne (21 M.). On leav-
ing Quebec the train crosses the 8t, Charles by a long swing-bridge
(views) and stops at (^2 M.) LimoUou Junction^ for the village of
HedleyvilU, It then runs along the bank of the 8t, Lawrence, afford-
ing views of the Isle of Orleans (p.'157"). i^k M. Maizerets (p. 158) ;
2 M. Mastai; 21/2 M. Beauport (p. 158); 0I/2 M. Beauport Church
(p. 168) ; 53/4 M. 8t,Gregoire, — 61/2M. Montmorency, with the power-
house of the railway, which also supplies power to the adjacent
cotton-mills and light to Quebec. — The train now backs up to the
(63/4 M.) Montmorency Falls Station, whence an elevator *(276 ft.)
ascends to the road near the Kent House Hotel (see above).
The *Falls of Montmorency, known to old French peasants as La
Vaehe , are formed by the Montmorency River just before its confluence
with the St. Lawrence and, are 265 ft. high and 160 ft. wide. In spring or
after heavy rain they are very imposing. A good near view of the falls
from above is obtained from a summer-house on the W. bank, built ori-
ginally by Oen. Haldimand (see above), at the suggestion of the Baroness
Biedesel, wife of the commander of the Hessian troops in the Revolutionary
War (see her ^Letters'*). Above the falls are the remains of a suspension-
bridge, which fell in 1856, carrying with it a peasant and his wife who were
driving across it at the time. Two fine ice -cones used to be formed at
the foot of the falls in winter, aflTording royal sport to Quebec tobogganers,
but there is now so little spray, owing to the fact that great part of
the water is withdrawn to generate the electric light with which Quebec
is illuminated, that the cones are insignificant.
The famous Natural Steps, 1 M. farther up the river, long formed an
attraction scarcely second to the falls but were submerged in 1906 as a
result of a dam constructed by the railway-company just below them. The
scene recalled the Sfrid at Bolton Abbey or the Linn of Dee near Braemar
(see Baedeker'*s Great Britain).
It was at Montmorency that Wolfe delivered his unsuccessful attempt
on Montcalm in 1759 (see p. 147), the centre of the attack being the en4
of the road known then and now as the C6te de Courville. (^ooalp
160 Route 31. STE. ANNE DE BEAUPRlfi.
The railway now crosses the Montmorency River (p. 159), afford-
ing a good view of the falls to the left. 7 M. Little ViUage. — 10 M.
VAnge Oardien , with its old church , prettily situated in a small
valley, offers good snipe and partridge shooting. The hills approach
more closely. — Near (16 M.) Chdteau Richer ^ with its orchards and
good shooting, are the romantic falls of the Sault & la Pace, about
110 ft. high. — I8V2 M. Rivitre des Chiena; 20i/2 M. EglUe SU. Anne,
the nearest station for visitors to the church (see below).
21 M. Ste. Anne de Beanpri, or La Bonne 8te, Anne (Regina
Hotel, $ 2 J also several small inns), a village with about 2000 inhab.,
said to have been founded by Breton mariners about 1620, is the
most famous place of pilgrimage in America to the N. of Mexico
and is visited annually by many thousands of pilgrims (200,000 in
1905). The present Church of Ste. Anne^ opened for public worship
in 1876 and created a Basilica by the Pope in 1887, is a large and
handsome building, with towers 168 ft. high. It contains some relics
of Ste. Anne , numerous ex voto offerings and crutches left by those
who have undergone miraculous cures, a statue of St. Anne (with
the Virgin) on an onyx column, and a good altar-piece by Le Brun,
The historical relics in the vestry are shown from 11 to 12. The
enthusiasm is at its greatest height on Ste. Anne^s Day (July 26th).
The original church of 1658 (the eleventh church built in Canada),
threatening to fall into ruin, was taken down in 1878 and re-erected
with the same materials on its former site, near the new church.
Opposite the Presbytery , at the E. .end of the main church, is the
brilliantly decorated Scala Santa Chapel (finished in 1893), the plat-
form in firont of which commands a superb *View. Miraculous healing
powers are also ascribed to a neighbouring well.
The *FaU8 of Ste. Anne, formed by the river of that name, 3-4 M.
above the town , consist of a series of picturesque plunees ^ one of which
is 130 ft. high. The path to the falls is not easily found without a guide.
B Seven FaU» of Bt. Firiol, 7 M. farther on, are still more picturesque.
The Ste. Anne Mts.j a part of the Laurentide range, culminating in a
summit 2685 ft. high, rise about 5 M. from the village.
Beyond Ste. Anne the railway goes on to (2 M.) Beaupri and (4 M.)
St. Joaefdm. About 5 M. farther on (30 M. from Quebec) is Cap TourmenU
(p. 167 •, •View).
d. Lorette. Charlesbourg. Lake Beanport. Lake St. Charles.
Larette is most quickly reached by railway (see p. 161), but the vis-
itor of leisure is advised to drive, at least one way. Charlesbourg and
Chdteau Bigot may easily be combined in the same drive. The distance
to Lorette, via either the Little River or the Charlesbourg road, is about
8M. The fare to Lorette and back direct should not exceed 75c. to $1.50
per head (with a minimum of $ 1.50)^ and the ddtour to Chateau Bigot
may cost about 50 c. extra. The bridge-toll may be saved by hiring the
carriage on the far side of the St. Charles.
The so-called ^Little River Road^ to Lorette begins at the end of
the tramway-line in St. Sauveur, crosses ScotVs Bridge (beyond
PI. A, 1), and follows the E. (N.) bank of the St. CharUs. Or we
may follow the W. (S.) bank for 2 M. more and then cross the river.
LAURENTIAN MTS. 32, RouU. 161
The Charletbourg Road crosses the DorchesterBridge (PL E, 1 ,2 ; p. 168)
and runs towards the N. W. (the Montmorency road diverging to the
right; see p. 158). To the left, near the confluence of the Lairet with
the St. Charles, isthe small Jacques Cartier Monument^ marking the
supposed spot of Gartier's settlement in the winter of 1535-36 '
(p. 147).
4M. Chirlesbourg, see below. Chdteau Bigot (see below) lies about
2 M. to the E. — Opposite the ehuroh the Lorette road turns to the left
8 M. Lorette, see p. 162.
The ro.id ranning on from Oharlesbonrg in the direction hitherto
followed leads to (8M.) Lake Beauport (Hotel; 12 M. from Quebec), a sheet
of water i M. long and Vi-Vs ^' wide, frequented by fishing and pleasure
parties from Quebec. The road to it passes the village of St. Pierre and
crosses the 'Br<il^\ a district devastated bv a forest-fire.
About 4 H . to the N. of Lorette, and 12 M. from Quebec, lies Lake
St. Oharlesi another popular angling-resort, 4 M. long and i/a M. wide.
Beyond Lorette the road to it crosses the BeUevue Mt. (view). Lake St.
Charles is the source of Quebec^s water-supply.
32. From Qnebec to Lake St. John and Chicontimi.
258 H. Qdbbeo & Lake St. John Railway to (189 M.) Roherval in 8 hrs.
(fare $6.70, parlor-car 75 c., sleeper $1.50); thence to (64 MO Chicoutimi
in 2^8 hrs. (through -fare $6; parlor-car from Roberval 50 c.. sleeper
$ 1.50). Luncheon is served at Lake Edward (p. 163), reached at 1.20 p.m.
This route, crossing the Laurentian Mis. (p. xxxvi) and traversing one
of the wildest and least-trodden districts yet reached by railway, may be
combined with the Saguenay trip (R. 33). In this case the traveller is
recommended to proceed to Roberval, pass one or more nights there, and
then go on to Chicoutimi, where he joins the Saguenay steamer (p. 172).
As the through-train to Roberval starts in the morning, while the steamer
ascends the Saguenay by night and descends by day, he will thus see all the
scenery by daylight. As at present arranged, he leaves Quebec by train
at 8.45 a.m., reaching Roberval at 4.55 p.m.; leaves Roberval at 7.10 p.m.,
reaching Chicoutimi at 9.65 p.m.; and leaves Chicoutimi early the next
morning (comp. p. 172). The fare for this ^round trip' is $ 10, meals and
berth on steamer extra. An objection raised by several travellers against
the round trip is the uncomfortably early hour at which the steamer
has to leave Chicoutimi (comp. p. 172). It may also be noted that between
. Lake St. Joseph (p. 162) and Eiskisink (p. 163) the beauty of the country
on both sides of the railway has been sadly marred by forest-fires. It is
hardly advisable to make the round trip in the opposite direction, as the
steamer ascending the Saguenay passes the finest scenery by night. — For
the fishing at Roberval and other points on the Quebec A Lake St. John
Railway, see p. 164.
Quebec^ see p. 146. The train leaves the station in t. Andrew
St. (PI. F, 3) and crosses the St. Charles by an Iron bridge 1100 ft.
long (retrospect of the city). — From (V2 M.) Limoilou Junction
(HedUyville)y at the other end of the bridge, the line to Montmo-
rency and Ste. Anne diverges to the right (see p. 158).
Oar line begins almost at once to mount the slopes of the Lau-
rentian or Laurentide Mts. (pp. xxxn, 139). The hills at first are
seen mainly to the right. — 3M. Charlesbourg, a prosperous village
with (1901) 2612 inhab., surrounded by orchards, contains the
Babdbkbb's Canada. 3rd Edit. H
162 Route 32. ST. RAYMOND. From Quebec
Bummer-homes of many Qnebeckers. It lies high and commands a
fine view. 6 M. CharUabourg West,
About 2 M. to the E. of Gharlesbourg are the scanty ruins df Ohiteau
Bigot or the HemUtage^ a country-seat of the Intendant Bigot (p. 156).
, 'The ruin itself is not of impressive size, and it is a chateau through
grace of the popular fancy rather than through any right of its own^
(Howell*). The romantic and probably baseless legend of the Indian
maiden Garoline, who is said to have been murdered here, Kosamond-like,
by the jealous Mme. P^an, another favourite of Bigot, is given at length
in *The Golden Dog% by W. Kirhy. See also *L'Intendant Bigot', a French
romance by Jo*eph Marmette. Researches made in 1897 seem to indicate
that this ch&teau really belonged to Bigot's predecessor, Intendant Begon,
to whom the ground was ceded by the Jesuits in 1716.
9 M. Indian or Jenne Lorette (450 ft.), a pretty little yillage,
occupied by about 300 Gbristianlzed Burviyors of tbe ancient Hnions,
€0 crossed, however, by intermarriage witb tbe French Canadians
that there is probably not a single fall-blooded Indian in the vil-
lage. Comp. HowelUl'a *A Chance Acquaintance' (chap. xiii).
A visit to Indian Lorette, to which the Hurons were removed in 1697,
is one of the favourite short excursions from Quebec (comp. p. 160). The
Indians live by hunting and trapping, by acting as guides for sportsmen,
and by making bead-work, baskets, snow-shoes, moccasins, and toboggans.
Visitors are usually welcome at the houses of the Head Chief and his ool-
leagues, of whom Tsioui ('Seewee') is the only Protestant. French is the
language of the village, though a few of the Indians also speak English.
The. Church, a reproduction of the Santa Oasa of Loretto, was erected
150 years ago and contains a copy of the Loretto figure of the Virgin.
The Si. Charles River flows past the village, forming the romantic
*Fall* of Lorette (ca. 100 ft.), a good view of which is obtained from the
road. A steep and rough path also descends to the brink of the lower
part of the cataract. — The river separates Lorette from the thriving French
village of 8t. Ambroite, with (1901) 1555 inhab. and a large church. — Both
villages afford good *Views of Quebec.
17 M. ValcartieTj largely settled by English military men, with
about a score of Waterloo veterans in its graveyard. About 4 M.
farther on we cross the Jacques Cartier River (p. 140 j *View, best to
the right) and reach (18 M.) St. Oabriel. Snow-breaks are seen
here and at intervals farther on. Beyond St. Gabriel we traverse &
district overgrown by scrubby forest. 21 M. St, Cathtmne'a. — 23 M.
Lake St. Joseph (^Lake St, Joseph Hotels a large house much fre-
quented in summer, $3-4 per day, $14-21 per week; Lake View
House, $ 1V2'^> ^ ^' from the station). The lake, of which we cross
the outlet, is 8 M. long and lies to the right. It is navigated by a
small steamer and affords good boating, bathing, and fishing for
black bass, trout, and lake-trout (touladi). Regattas are held here
In summer, and a delightful canoe or boat trip may be made up the
Rivihre aux Pins. The Lake St. Joseph Hotel is reached by a spur-
line, with a private station. — Farther on we skirt the pretty *Lake
Sergent (r.). — 31 M. Bourg Louis,
34 M. St.Baymond (460 ft.; Hotels'), a village with 1272 inhab.,
prettily situated on the Ste. Anne River and surrounded by mountains,
is another good angling -centre. It is the station for the TowiU
' le
yGoogk
to Chicoutimi. LAKE EDWARD. 82. Route. 163
Fish ^ Game Cluh. The scenery of the N. branch of the Ste. Anne,
known as the Little Saguenay^ is wild and picturesque.
The district now traversed contains few settlements except the
modest little houses of the various fishing - clubs, which have ac-
quired the fishing-rights of the innumerable lakes and streams with
which the country abounds. Caribou and other shooting is also en-
joyed here. — 57 M. Bivilre h Fierre (710 ft), a lumbering-settle-
ment, is the junction of the Great Northern Railway of Canada (see
p. 142).
We cross the Riviere ^ Pierre on leaving the station of that name,
and about 10 M. farther on we reach the beautiful brown Batiscan,
the left bank of which we now follow for about 30 M. The opposite
bank of the river often rises in vertical rocky cliffs, hundreds of
feet high, while the water flows past in alternate stretches of turmoil
and placidity. The railway follows its windings, often rounding
abrupt curves. 69 M. haurentideSy vdth an angling-club; 76 M.
Miguick. — From (79 M.) La Tuque Junction a new branch-line
runs to (40 M.) La Tuque, at the head of steamboat-navigation on
the 8t, Maurice River (p. 140). This line skirts the N. shore of
Lake Wayagamak, — Beyond (86 M.) Beaudet we cross and leave
the Batiscan. 93 M. Stadaconay with a lake and club-house (left) ;
101 M. Pearl LakCy another good angling-station; 107 M. Triton
Cluby with an attractive club-house.
Within 6 M. or so of this part of the railway is the W. boundary of
the Laurentides National Park, established by the Quebec Legislatnre in
1895 for objects similar to those aimed at in Algonquin Park (p. 204).
Its area is 2640 sq. M. Admirable trout-fishing is afforded by the Jacguet
Oartier Lake and River; caribou abound in the famous hunting-ground
known as the ^Oreat Barrens*; there are also not a few moose; and good
partridge (ruflfed grouse) shooting is obtained in the 8. part of the Park.
The license-fee for fishing in the Park is $ 10, plus $ 1 per day ($ 4 per
day at Jacques Gartier Lake)*, the shooting-license is $ 26, plus $ 1 per day
($ 2 in the ^Barrens', with the use of a comfortable shooting-lodge). One
bull moose and two caribou are allowed for each gun. A charge of $ 1
a day is made for the use of canoes and camp -equipments. Guides
(Jos. Isabel, J. Filion, Beaulieu, Minguy, etc.) charge $ iys per day.
112M. Lake Edward (1210ft.; Laurentides House, meals 75 c,
described as mediocre), or Lac des Grandes Isles, where the train
halts for luncheon, is a large and fine body of water, 20 M. long
and studded with countless islands. It is well stocked with fine trout,
often 5 lbs. in weight, the fishing for which is free to all patrons of
the railway. Excellent fishing is also obtained in the Riviere auxRats,
the Jeanotte (the lake's outlet), etc. Guides and camping-outfits
may be obtained at the hotel. Small steamers ply on Lake Edward.
, About 13 M. beyond Lake Edward the railway reaches its highest
point (1500 ft. above the St. Lawrence) and begins to descend to-
wards Lake St. John. — At (134 M.) Kiskisink (1320 ft.), a fine lake,
9 M. long, lies to the right. Close to the line is the club-house of
the Metabetchouan Club. 150 M. Commissioners Lake, The small but
picturesque lake to the left is Lac Gros Visons. — 160 M. Lake
^^«300gle
164 RouU 32. LAKE ST. JOHN. From Quebec
Bouchette (1076 ft.), also to the left, is connected, on the W., with
the Lac det Commi»8aire$, and both waters are leased by a dub of
Connecticut anglers. — 163 M. Ddblonj 164 M. 8t, FVaneis de Sales,
Lake St. John (see below) now comes in sight on the left front.
At (176 M.) Chambord Junction, near the S. bank of Lake St.
John, the railway divides into two branches, the one running to the
left to (13 M.) Roberval, the other to the right to (51 M.) Chicou-
timi. In the meantime, we follow the former branch, leaving the
other to be described at p. 166.
The Roberval line skirts the S.W. shore of Lake St. John, of
which it affords fine views to the right. At (183 M.) Ouidtehouan
FalU we cross the Ouiaichowin and obtain a good view of its falls,
about 1 M. to the left (see p. 165). — About 6 M. farther on we
cross the rapid OuiaUihouanklie^ or Little Ouiatchouany and reach —
189 M. Boberval (350 ft.), a prosperous lumbering-settlement,
with 1260 inhab. and two or three saw-mills. The most conspicuous
building is the grey stone Nunnery,
Beyond the village the train runs on for about 1 M. more to the
platform in front of the *Hotel Boberval ($ 3-6 ; 300 guests),
a large and well - equipped summer-resort , with electric lights,
billiard-room, bowling-alley, and other conveniences. It commands a
fine view of Lake St John, the opposite end of which, 25 M. distant,
can be descried in clear weather only. The steamboat -wharf is
about Vs M. from the hotel.
Lake St. John, the PHeouagami or ^Flat Lake* o the Indians,
is an almost circular sheet of water, with a diameter of about 25 M.,
surrounded by low wooded hills. It is well stocked with fish, in-
cluding the ouananiche (see below), pike, dorl, and trout. A number
of rivers flow into the lake, the largest of which are the Peribonkay
the Mistassinij and the Ashouapmouchouan. It empties at its E. end
by the Or and Discharge or Dicharge du Lac St, Jean (see below),
forming the upper waters of the Saguenay. The Lake St. John Valley,
now containing about 60,000 inhab., possesses a fertile clay soil,
which produces good crops of wheat, oats, and potatoes, and raises
considerable quantities of livestock. The valley is one of the leading
districts in Quebec for cheese and butter. The climate is said to be
not more severe than that of Montreal, and the snow-fall is rather
less. The settlers are almost wholly French Canadians.
The Fishing in Lake St. John and its tributary rivers has been leased to
the Management of the Hotel Boberval, and is free to all its patrons. The
chief sport is afforded by the Ouananiche (^wahnaneesh"), a kind of fresh-
water salmon peculiar to this district, which ranks with trout and salmon
in its gamy qualities. The usual weight is2-4lbs., and fish above 6-6 lbs.
are rare, though they are sometimes caught weighing as much as 8 lbs.
In May and June the ouananiche may be caught in the lake, especially
near the Hotel Roberval and at the mouth of the Metabetchouan (p. 166) \
later the scene of the sport is at the Grand Discharge (p. 165) and up
the rivers Ashouapmouchouan, Mistassini, and Peribonka. See *The Ouan-
aniche and its Canadian Environment^ by E. T. D, Chambers. Fishing and
camping outfits, including canoes, provisions, and two guides, are provided
to Chicoutimi, POINTE BLEUE. 32. Route, 165
at the hotel for $ 7 a day for each person. Guides receive about $ IV4 -
iVs per ^7 (incl. use of canoe) and 76 c. for their board. Fishing and
shooting excursions up the Mistassini, etc., are often made in this way.
The favourite trip from the Hotel Boberv^al is that by steamer across
Lake St. John to the G-rand Discharge (25 M., in 2 hrs. ; fare 75 c, re-
turn-fare $ 1.25). [The steamer bums wood, and passengen should be on
their guard agednst sparks from the funnel.] — The general course of the
steamer is a little to the N. of E. As we leave we enjoy a good retrospect
of Boberval and a distant view (r.) of the Oviatchouan FtUls (see below). The
E. end of the lake, at the entrance of the Grand Discharge, is thickly
sprinkled with the *'-Thousand Islands of the 8agumav\ at one of which,
with the little fishing-hotel named the Island House ($ 2), the steamer
halts. Passengers who wish to fish or to make the canoe-trip to Chicou-
timi (see below) remain here, while others return to Boberval in the after-
noon. The Grand Discharge is on the N. side of the Island of Alma^ while
on its S. side, about 3 M. distant, is the Littte Discharge (Petite Dicharge).
The two unite, forming the Ri^er Baguenay (p. 170), at the B. end of the
island, which is 9 M. long.
An excursion by road (carr. $ 2-4) should also be made to the *Ouiat-
chouaa Falls (comp. p. 164), which are about 280 ft. high and very pictur-
esque. Walkers may follow the railway, which is well ballasted, to (7 M.)
OuiaUshouan Falls Station (p. 164) and there take to the road. A path, leaving
the road to the right, just beyond the bridge over the Ouiatehouan Wee^t-
chouan*), leads through wood to (1 M.) the foot of the falls.
About 8>/s M. to the N. of the Hotel Boberval is the interesting Indian
reservation of Pointe Bleue, inhabited by about 6iX) Montagnais (p. xlvii),
who make their living mainly as guides, trappers, and canoe-men. They
are very dark in colour and of much purer blood than the Lorette Indians
(p. 169)) uid their village offers many points of interest. It includes a
Roman Catholic church and mission-house, an Bpiseopal church, and a
store of the Hudson Bay Co., with a stock of furs. — This drive may be
extended to (8 M.) 8t. iVtms, a prosperous farming settlement. The roads
are not good, and the universal vehicle is the buckboard Cplanche").
Among other points to which excursions are sometimes made from
Boberval are the stations of the 'Eastern Extension' of the railway (from
Chambord to Chicoutimi; see p. 166) and the Trappist settlement on the
Mistassini, 20 M. from its mouth (accessible by steamer).
Fbom the Island Housb to Chiooutxmi bt Bivbb. This trip (ca. 45 M.),
which is performed in one long day, with an early start, is recommended to
travellers who can stand a little fatigue and are not too nervous for the
shooting of the rapids. Ladies often make the descent. There are 8 or 9
portages, from l(X)yds. to V4 M. long. Each traveller requires a canoe
with two guides, the charge for which, including allowances for the guides'
board and their return-journey, is about $ 10-12. To this the traveller's
own board has to be added, and the last 10-12 M., from the Qrand Remou
to 8te. Anne de Saguenay (p. 172 ; ferry thence), are generally accomplished
by carriage (ca. $2), so that the expenses of the trip may be put at about
$ 15-17. The scenery all along is striking and picturesque, while the *run-
ning the rapids', which the dexterity of the canoe-men renders practically
safe, is a novel and exciting element of interest. It is not necessary to
take provisions, as inns are reached at convenient intervals.
The country to the N. of Lake St. John is still very imperfectly -
known, though the Jesuits penetrated to Lake Mistassini in 1672. Mr. A. P.
Low, of the Canadian Geological Survey, surveyed this lake in 1885 and
found it to be about 1(X) M. long and 12-15 M. wide, although much greater
dimensions had been claimed for it. In 1892-96 Mr. Low surveyed and
examined diffierent parts of the Labrador peninsula, including a route from
Lake Mistassini to the headwaters of the Koksoak River and down this
river to Uhgava Bay, thus traversing the centre of the peninsula from S.
to K. It is possible to travel in almost any direction throughout this great
tract, though considerable difficulty is offiered by the numerous and long
portages. The lakes and rivers abound in fish, but large game, with the
exception of the caribou, has become scarce, and even this animal is now
166 R6ute32. ST. JEROME.
abundant only in the far north. — There is some talk of a railway from
Boberval to Jamet Bay.
Feom Ohambord Junction to CJhicoutimi, 51 M., in IV4 hr. —
The Chicoutimi line from Chambord runs towards the E., at first
skirting the S. shore of Lake St. John Qeft), Ahout 6 M. from
Chambord we cross the Metabetchouan, the chief S. affluent of Lake
St. John (90 M. long), which forms a series of fine falls a few
miles higher up. Upon the E. hank lies an old fort of the Hudson
Bay Co. — 10 M. 8t. JSrdme, at the mouth of the KooshpiganUke^
carries on a brisk trade in cheese and butter. The line trayerses a
farming-district, still showing here and there traces of the dreadful
forest-fire of 1870. — Near (16 M.) 8t. Oideon we cross the wide
Belle Bivi^re^ beyond which we leave the lake and turn to the right.
— 22 M. Hibertville Station^ about 4M. from the large and thriying
village of that name (2023 inhab.). Beyond this point we thread the
narrow and picturesque Dorval Pasa^ about 1 M. long. To the S. of
this part of the line lies Lake Kenogami (p. 172 ; not visible). — At
(41 M.) Jonquihre we cross the Bivihre aux Sables, Farther on,
about 4 M. before reaching Chicoutimi, we obtain a splendid •View
of the Saguenay , running about 300 ft. below us to the left On
the high bank of the N. shore lies the pretty village of 8te. Anne
de Saguenay (p. 172). The line now descends rapidly (maximum
grade 1 : 66) and, on entering the town, crosses the Chicoutimi Biver
(p. 172), with its falls, by a bridge 60 ft. high.
51 M. Chicoutimiy see p. 171.
33. From Quebec to Ghicontimi. The Sagnenay.
226 M. Stbambb of the Bidkelieu A Ontario Navigation Co. daily in sum-
mer in 22-24 brs., leaving about 8.30 a.m., on the arrival of the Montreal
steamer (B. 88), and reaching Chicoutimi early next morning at an hour
varyine with the tide (fare $4.50, return-fare $8; stateroom extra; D. $1,
B. or 8. 75 c.).
The scenery of the Sagnenay is very imposing, and no travellers of
leisure should miss this trip. Thev may, however, combine with it a visit
to Lake St. John, in the manner indicated in £. 82. Warm wraps should
be at hand, as the Saguenay can be cold even at midsummer. On the
following route the steamer stops regularly only at Lw Eboulemmtt, Murrap
BaUj TadotttaCi and Ha Ha Bay.
Quebec^ see p. 146. As the steamer leaves, we enjoy a splendid
retrospect of the city, while the fort-crowned heights of Livis (p. 167)
rise to the right. To the left lies the Beauport Shore (p. 168), with
its long line of white houses. A good distant view of the JIfont-
morency Falls (jp. 169) is obtained on the same side, before the
steamer enters the South Channdj between the Island of Orleans
(p. 157) on the left and the mainland (S. shore of the St. Lawrence)
on the right. On the former, above which peers Mi. Ste. Anne (p. 160),
are seen the villages of St. Laurent, St. Jean, and St. Francois; on
the latter lie Beaumont^ St, Michel de BeUeehasse (with a church con-
ST. IR^N^E. 33. Route. 167
taming pictures ascribed to masters of the first rank), St. Valiert
and Berthier. Two important new forts are being built at Beaumont
(comp. p. 150). As we clear the end of the Isle of Orleans, about 30 M.
from Quebec, Cap Tourmente (p. 160) comes into sight on the left,
raising its huge bulk 1960 ft. into the air. The course of the steamer
now lies near the N. shore, which is lined by the black forms of the
Laurentide Mta. (p. 139), here abutting closely on the river. Among
the most prominent points are Cap Rouge^ Cap Gribatme (2170 ft.),
Saut au Cochon^ and Cap AfaiUard. Between us and the S. bank
lie a number of islands, the largest of which are Reaux Jslandy Orosse
Isle (quarantine-station), and the twin Jsle aux^ OrueSy or Crane
Jslandj and Qoose Island, which are together 12 M. long, and are
frequented in spring and autumn by wild geese and other waterfowl.
44 M. (1.). St, Francois Xamer, at the mouth of the Bouchard,
3Y2 M. below Cape Maillard, is the only village on the inhospit-
able N. shore for nearly 30 M. The river is here about 13 M. wide,
and the S. shore is hardly visible from the steamer.
53 M. (1.). St, PauVs Bay, or Baie St. Paul, opening out beyond
Cap Labaie, receives the waters of two small rivers, the Moulin and
the Gouffre. The town, on the latter river, has about 2500 inhab.
and is frequented by a few summer- visitors (simple boarding-houses).
— The E. arm of the bay is formed by Cap Corbeau.
To the right, opposite St. Paul's Bay, lies the Isle aux Coudres
(* Hazel Island'), so named by Oartier in 1535. It is about 6 M.
long and 2^/2 M- ''^ide and contains (1901) 1066 inhab., who are
said to be, perhaps, more purely medisBval French than any other
group of Canadians. The island has belonged to the Seminary of
Quebec (p. 152) since 1687. In 1759 it was occupied by Wolfe.
61 M. (1.) Les Eboulements , a quaint little village, clustered
round the handsome church of Notre Dame, nearly opposite the E.
end of the Isle aux Coudres and about 1000 ft. above the river. Over it
towers the dark mass of Aft. Eboulement (2550 ft.). Pop. (1901) 2369.
This part of the N. shore of the St. Lawrence has been frequently
visited hv seismic disturbances of considerable violence, and traces may
still be observed here of the landslides of 1663, a year of many earthquakes
and strange meteorological phenomena. The old village of Les Eboule-
ments stood on the shore, about 3 M . to the E. of the quay { but the river
made such encroachments on it that it was removed to its present picturesque
but windy site about 80 years ago. This fact has already given rise to a
romantic legend about a submerged town and church, sometimes visible
beneath the St. Lawrence.
73 M. (1.) St.IrinSe (Charlevoix, $2-2V2; several boarding-
houses), a small watering-place with (1901) 1059 inhab. and the
summer-homes of various Montrealers and Quebeckers. This part
of the St. Lawrence is much frequented by white whales (^Beluga
BorealiSf often misnamed white porpoises), which attain a length of
15-20 ft. Their skin makes a very valuable leather, while 60-100 gal-
lons of oil, worth $ 1 a gallon, is procured from an ordinary carcase,
Halibut^ sturgeon, salmon, and smaller fish aboun^^jyGoOQlc
168 Route 33. MURRAY BAY. From Quebec
80 M. (I.) Pointe d PiCj the landing-place for Mnrray Bay
(^ Memoir Richelieu^ a large house, with swimming and other baths,
from $4; Lome House j $2; Warren' $, well spoken of, frequented
mainly by ladies and children, $ 1-1 V2) numerous boarding-houses),
the chief watering-place on the N. shore of the St. Lawrence and
one of the most frequented summer-resorts in Canada. Its French
name is Malbaie. The town proper, with (1901) 2673 inhab., lies at
the head of the bay, on the Murray River; but the summer- visitors
congregate at Pointe d, Pic and Cap d, VAigle, the two horns of the bay,
each about 3 M. from the town. Board may be obtained in the farm-
houses for about $ 5-7 a week, but the ^habitant^, who is an inveterate
bargainer, invariably asks more than he expects to get. — In sum-
mer a steam-ferry (li/4hr.) plies to Riviere OueUe, connecting there
with the railway from Montreal (comp. p. 95). By this route Murray
Bay may be reached from Montreal in 10^4 hrs. (through-fare $5.50,
sleeper $ 2).
The bay was explored in 16U6 by Ghamplain, who named it La Malle Bale,
on account of Hhe tide that runs there marvellously. On the British con-
quest of Canada the district was granted to two Scottish officers, who quickly
peopled it with Highland families. The descendants of these Scots, how-
ever, became thoroughly French in language and customs and are hardly
to be distinguished from the other inhabitants of Lower Canada. The
names of Fraser, Blackburn, Warren, and HacDougall are still common
among descendants who speak nothing but French. Several American
prisoners-of-war were confined here in iT76.
The attractions of Murray Bay include wild and fine scenery, fair boat-
ing, bathing (rather cold), golf, bracing air. and excellent fishing. The last
is eigoyed mainly in the Hurray Biver and in some small lakes (Cfrenelle^
Comporti, MoHm, etc.) within easy reach. Among the chief points for walks
or for drives in a ^caUche^ (see p. 115) are the Lovw Frcuer Falls and the
Chute Detbimsy each about 5 M. ofi", and the curious TVotf, 4 M. farther.
The * Upper Fra$er Falls, 8 M. from the Lower Falls, and reached by a
different road, deserve a visit. The Fetit and the Orand Rttisssau are
reached either by the Quebec road or by boat. The district abounds in
points of geological interest, including the regularly -shaped mounds of
stratified sand and clay due to the action of land-slides. The country a
few miles back from the river is an almost unexplored wilderness of
ragged hill and forest, into which the enthusiastic tourist or sportsman
may penetrate with Indian guides and camping-outfit. Caribou and bear
are among the possibilities of the game-bag. — About 9 M. up the river
is the settlement of 8te. Agnes (1688 inhab. in 1901).
From Murray Bay the steamer steers diagonally across the river,
here about 14-15 M. wide. Kamouircaka (see p. 95) lies on the S.
shore, nearly opposite Murray Bay and concealed by an archipelago
of small islands. Our course leads between the high and rocky PU-
grim /stonds (lighthouse ; r.) and the long and nanow Hare Island (I.).
110 M. (r.) Point a B«afiZiett (Bellevue, Venise, $ 1V2-2), the
landing-place for Oacouna and for RivHtre du Loup (p. 94), which
lies about 2^2 ^> ^'^^ ^^^ ^n^ of the long pier and makes a very
picturesque effect, with its large church and white houses, as seen
from the river.
Oaconiia iUantion House, Duff erin House y $ l^^-2; SiroiSy Mme. MichaudUj
and many other boarding-houses), 6 H. from Point a Beaulieu (carriage
$ 1-2, bargainini; advisable), lies on a bank rising about 100 ft. above the
to Chicoutimi. TADOUSAC. 33, RovU, 169
St. Lawrence, and claims to be the most fashionable summer-resort of
Canada. Its situation commands a fine view of the broad St. Lawrence,
backed by the dark Laurentian Mts. (especially beautiful at sunset) ; and
a smooth sandy beach gives good opportunity for bathing. The scenery
around it is less rugged than that of Murray Bay, and the water is some-
what less chilly. Fair trout-fishing is obtained in (3M.) Trout Brook, but
better sport is afforded by the lakes, 12-15 M. distant. Many Canadian
families have pleasant summer-cottages here, and the gaiety of the place
centres, perhaps, round these rather than round the hotels. Cacoana is
much quieter and simpler than the fashionable resorts of the United States,
and the name of the ^Saratoga of Canada', sometimes given to it, is very
misleading. — The village contains 600 inhab., nearly all French; and
near it, on the beach, Is a small settlement of Indians, of whom souvenirs
may be purchased.
The steamer now heads across stream (N.W.) for the month of
the Saguenay. A good view of Gacouna (p. 168) , 3-4 M. distant,
is obtained to the right. Away to the left are Hare Island (p. 168),
the Brandy Pots, and Whit^ Island. About halfway across we pass
near Red Island (r.), with its lighthouse and light-ship.
132 M. Tadons&o (*Tadou8ae Hotel, from $3; Saguenay ^ $ 1 ;
boarding-houses), a village of 5-600 inhab., picturesquely situated
just below the confluence of the St. Lawrence and the Saguenay (see
p. 170), and now frequented as a summer-resort, is of special interest
as the oldest continuously occupied European settlement in Canada.
The Bay of Tadousac, opening towards the St. Lawrence, affords a
safe and commodious little harbour, but the steamboat- wharf is iii
the Anse hVEau, a small creek in the Saguenay, opening to the S.W.
and separated from the bay by a small and rocky peninsula. On the
opposite (S.) side of the Saguenay rises Pohhte Noke (400 ft.).
Tadousac derives its name ('nipple') from the 'mamelons' or
rounded hills by which it is enclosed. The bathing here is good,
though cold, and boating is much in vogue in the sheltered bay on
the St. Lawrence. Good fishing is to be had in numerous small
lakes, 3-4 M. inland, and sea-trout are caught in the Saguenay^
The golf-links are pleasant.
Tf dousac was visited in 1635 by Jacques Cartier, who heard strange
storiea of the Saguenay from the Indians he found fishing here. A trading-
post was established here in 1589 by Pontgrav^ and Chauvin, and Champlain
visited it in their company in 1603. For scores of years to come this was
the chief meeting-place and market of the French fur-traders and the In-
dians. The Basque, Norman, and Breton mariners, who had long frequented
the Banks of Newfoundland fn. 105). also found their way to Tadousac
in pursuit of whales. In 16!^ the little settlement was occupied by Sir
David Eirke, and it was thence he sent his brothers to capture Quebec
(p. 147). In 1661 the garrison was massacred by the Iroquois, and in 1690
three French frigates found refuge here from Sir William Phipps (p. 147).
Later it became a post of the Hudson Bay Co. Tadousac also plays a
prominent part in the story of the early efforts of the French missionaries,
the first mission being established here in 1615 bv the B^coUet Father
Dolbeau. The Jesuits had charge of it from 1641 to 1782.
The most interesting spot in Tadousac is, for most visitors, the quain
little *CJuip€l of th$ Juvit Miuion, which was built in 1747-50 on the site ot
a more ancient church and still preserves the primitiveness of itstoriginaf
aspect. It contains some interesting relics ana also the tomb of Father de
la BroMMy the last Jesuit missionary, of whose death a picturesque legend
is current. The bell is that of the original chapel and has seen nearly
170 Route 33. THE SAGUENAY.
three centuries of service. Close to the chapel, which oTcrlooks the Bay
of Tadoosac, is the large Tadousac Hotel (p. 169) \ and not far off are the
plain bat sabstantial old buildings of the Hudaon Bay Co, The villa which
Lord Dufferin built for himself in 1873 also faces the bay. Adjoining the
Anse k TEau is a Government Pisdcultural Station^ with a pool in which
numbers of large salmon, kept here for breeding purposes, may be seen. —
Opposite Tadousac is the small settlement of St. Catharifui'* B<xy.
The ^Saguenay, which the steamer now ascends, is one of the
chief tributaries of the St. Lawrence and unquestionably one of the
most remarkable rivers on the American continent. From the point
where it takes the name Saguenay, as it issues from Lake St. John,
it is about 110 M. long; but its real source is to be found at least
200 M. farther up , in the headwaters of the large rivers flowing
into that lake (p. 164). The lower part of the river, bordered by
hills and precipices of sombre and impressive grandeur, has been
aptly described as ^a tremendous chasm 4eft in a nearly straight line
for some sixty miles'. Its breadth varies from V2 M. to 21/2 M. ;
its depth is immense, its bottom being at least 600 ft. below that of
the St. Lawrence at their confluence. The striated cliffs of gneiss
and syenite are but scantily relieved by vegetation, and, save for an
occasional white whale (p. 167), no animal life is visible. The
scenery is grand but sombre.
*To speak strictly, the Saguenay is not a river at all but a true Qord,
consisting of the deeply-eroded bed of a glacier into which the sea pene-
trated on the melting of the ice. This glacier was formed originally in a
much shallower river-valley, apparently located on an ancient ^fault' or line
of weakness in the Archean rock. The trough 1 the Saguenay is thug of
the same origin as the very similar troughs in N. Labrador, Baffin Land,
Greenland, and Norway^ (Reginald Daly).
For the first few miles after we leave Tadousac the cliffs on either
side are 600-1100 ft. high.
136 M. fr. ; 4 M. from Tadousac) Pointt La BouU (600 ft.).
142 M. (1.) St. Etimne Bay, with Pointe Brisc-Culottet as its
N. arm, beyond which the river bends to the left (W.).
147 M. (r.) Mouth of the 8te. Ma^guerite^ the chief tributary of
the Saguenay and famous for its salmon-fishing.
149 M. (1.1 8t, Louis JslCy a tree-covered mass of granite. The
river is here 1200 ft. deep. To the right, just above, is a group of
islets at the mouth of the Rioihre d Rouge or Atoeas.
153 M. (1.) Mouth of the LUtU Saguenay Rher.
157 M. (I.) St. John's Bay (An$e St. Jean), with the mouth of
the St. John River, a hamlet, and a small waterfall.
164 M. (1.) **Cape Eternity (1700 ft) and (165 M.; I.) •*Cape
Trinity (1500 ft.), with the deep and narrow Eternity Bay between
them, form the culmination of the sublime scenery of the Saguenay.
The former of the two huge masses of rock slopes gently backward
from the stream and is densely clothed with pines, but Cape Trinity
rises perfectly sheer from the black water, a naked wall of granite.
Its name is derived from the three steps in which it climbs from
the river. Near the top are a cross and a gilded statue of the Virgin,
Google
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CHICOUTIMI. 83. Route. 171
The steamer runs close to the precipice, the steam-whistle is blown
to show the marvellons echo, and passengers try their strength in throwing
stones at the apparently easily-reached wall. — The front of the cliffs is
defaced with the advertisement of a Quebec tradesman, whom, it is hoped,
all right-minded tourists will on this, account religiously boycott.
I66V2 M. (1.) La Niche, or Statue Point, *where at about 1000
feet above the water, a huge, rough Gothic arch gives entrance to
a cave, in which, as yet, the foot of man has never trodden. Before
the entrance to this black aperture, a gigantic rock, like the statue
of some dead Titan, once stood. A few years ago, during the winter,
it gave way, and the monstrous statue came crashing down through
the ice of the Saguenay, and left bare to view the entrance to the
cavern it had guarded perhaps for ages' (from the Times),
172 M. fr.) Trinity Bay.
175 M. (1.) Le Tableau , a cliflf 900 ft, high, presenting to the
river an immense smooth front like a canvas prepared for painting.
181 M. (r.) Descente des Femmes, a cove said to owe its name to
the story that a party of Indian squaws managed to reach the river
through this ravine and so procured help for their husbands, who
were starving in the back-country.
187 M. (r.) Cape East. The river here is about 2 M. wide, and
at ordinary spring-tides the water rises 18 ft.
Opposite Cape East opens Ha Ha Bay, 7 M. long and 1-2^2 M.
wide. The steamer usually ascends this bay, either in going or com-
ing, to (195 M.) St. Alphonse (McLean's Hotel, from $2), in the
N.W. angle of the bay, near the mouth of the Wabouchbagama
(930 inhab.).
If time allows, visitors may drive from St. Alphome round the head
of the bay, crossing the River JUars (salmon) , to (3 M.) 8t. AUxis^ with
its busy lumber-trade. — Chieoutimi (see below) is 12 M. from St. Alphonse.
The steamer now returns to the Saguenay and steers to the left
round Cape West, opposite Cape East.
212 M. (r.) High Point. — 216 M. (r.) Pointe Roches.
220 M. (r.) Mouth of the River Orignal. ' Beyond this there are
farms and houses on both sides, and the river narrows to Y2 M.
227 M. (r.) Cap St. Francois, just below the Anse aux Foins.
226 M. (1.) Chieoutiini(^Chdteau Saguenay, second-rate, from $ 3 ;
Chieoutimi, $ 1.26), a busy little lumbering and pulp-making town
of (1901) 3826 inhab., is picturesquely situated on the S. (right)
bank of the Saguenay, at the head of navigation and the mouth of
the Chieoutimi River. The name means 'deep water'. Among the
most prominent features of the town are the large and high-lying
Roman Catholic Cathedral, Church of the Eudist Fathers,College, Sailors'
Hospital, and Convents. On the Chieoutimi River, near the railway-
bridge (p. 166), once lay the huge Price Lumber Mills, long one of the
largest establishments of the kind in Canada, but this industry has
now been transferred to Jonqui^re and Metabetchouan. The Price
family was identified with the welfare of Chieoutimi for about
172 Boute 33. CmCOUTIMI RIVER.
60 years; and a fine monnment has been erected by the citizens, in
front of the hospital, to the memory of WUliam Price (d. 1881),
known as the *King of the Saguenay*. The Chieoutimi Pulp MiUs
turn out 70,000 tons of pulp annually, all of which is shipped to
Europe. Near the old lumber-mills is a Chapely erected in 1893
upon the site of an older building of 1727 and of the original little
Jesuit chapel planted there for the Indians in 1670. Some inter-
esting relics were discovered in digging the foundations of the new
chapel.
Railway from Chieoutimi to Chembord Junction (for Boberval and
Quebec), see p. 166. — Descent of the Saguenay by Canoe from Lake 8t. John
to Chieoutimi^ see p. 165.
The Chieoutimi River rises far to the S., near Lake Jacques Cartier^ and
flows to the N. to Lake Kenogami (15 H. long and 1 M. wide). Thence it
descends nearly 600 ft. in its coarse of 18 H. to the Saguenay, forming a
picturesque * Waterfall^ 45 ft. high, just above the town of Chieoutimi
(comp. p. 166). It affords good trout and salmon fishing.
On the high bank of the Saguenay, opposite Chieoutimi, lies the small
village of 8ie, Anne de Saguenay.
The steamer leaves Chieoutimi between midnight and 6 a.m. , about
1 hr. after high-water.
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VI. ONTARIO.
Route Page
34. From Montreal to Ottawa 174
a. Yik Canadian Pacific Railway Short Line .... 174
b. Via Calumet • 176
c. Vi& Grand Trunk Railway 176
35. Ottawa 176
Environs of Ottawa 181
From Ottawa to Toronto, to Prescott, to Waltbam, to
ManiwakL to Smith's Falls and Brockville, to Corn-
wall and Tupper Lake 183
36. From Ottawa to Kingston by Steamer 183
37. From Ottawa to Montreal by Steamer 184
38. From Montreal to Toronto 186
a. Vi& Canadian Pacific Railway 186
From Peterborongh to Lakefleld. Kawartha Lakes . 187
From Peterborough to Haliburton 188
b. Via Grand Trunk Railway 188
Picton and the Prince Edward Peninsula 189
Scarboro Heights 190
From Scarboro Junction to Goboconk and to Jackson's
Point. 190
39. Toronto 190
40. From Toronto to North Bay. Muskoka District ... 197
Collingwood. Penetang. Lake Simcoe 198
Lake Couchiching *.» . . 199
Huntsville Lakes and Lake of Bays 200
The Maganetawan 200
I. From Muskoka Wbarf to Rosseau 201
II. From Muskoka Wharf to Port Cockburn .... 202
III. From Bracebridge to Bala 203
41. From Ottawa to Depot Harbour (Parry Sound) ... 203
Algonquin Park 204
42. From Toronto to Detroit 205
a. Via Grand Trunk Railway 206
b. Vi& Canadian Pacific Railway 206
43. From Toronto to Niagara (and Buffalo) 208
a. By Steamer • . 208
b. By Grand Trunk Railway 209
Burlington Beach 210
From HamUton to All and ale 210
From Hamilton to Port Dover. Welland Ship Canal 211
c. By Canadian Pacific Railway 212
44. From Detroit to Buffalo 212
a. Via Michigan Central Railroad 212
b. Vi& Grand Trunk Railway 213
c. By Steamer 214
45. Niagara Falls. .' 215
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174
Rcmte Page
46. From Toronto to Owen Sound and Fort William . . 222
Elora 222
From Owen Sound to Sault-Ste-Marie by the North
Channel 223
The St. Mary'B or Soo Ship Canal 225
47. From Toronto to Montreal by Steamer. The St. Law-
rence River and the Thousand Islands 226
48. From Montreal to Port Arthur and Fort William . . 230
From Mattawa to Timiskaming 232
Lake NipisBing 233
From Sudbury to Sault-Ste-Marie 233
Michipicoten and Moose Rivers 234
Nipigon River and Lake 235
From Port Arthur to Gunflint 286
49. From North Bay to New Llskeard. Temagami Begion 236
Lake Timiskaming 239
34. From Montreal to Ottawa^
a. VUL Canadian Pacific Bailway Short Line.
112 M. Railway in 3-8»/2 hrs. (fare $3.50; parlor-car 60c.; sleeper
$ 1.60). Thig line, opened in 1898, affords the shortest and most direct route
between Montreal and Ottawa and also forms part of the transcontinental
through-route described in BR. 48, 50, 62, it b6.
From Montreal (Windsor St. Station) to (24 M.) VaudreuU, see
p. 186. Our line now turns to the N.W. and skirts the S. bank of
the Ottawa Bi«er^ which here forms the *Lake of Two Mountains
(p. 186 ; views to the right).
27 M. I$U Cadieux; 30 M. Como (p. 185); 33 M. Hudson (p. 186).
On the opposite side of the Ottawa, high up among the trees, is seen
the white building of the Trappist convent of Oka (p. 185). — 37 M.
Lavigne,
41 M. Rigaud (hotels and boarding-houses), a village prettily
situated at the base of a wooded hill surmounted by a gilt cross.
About halfway up is a small sanctuary, covered with a gilt dome and
approached by a *Roate de Oalvaire*. The flat summit of the hill,
known as the ^Devil's Garden', is strewn with curious rounded
boulders (the d^ris of an ancient moraine). Rigaud is the junction
of a short line to (7M.) Port Fortune, nearly opposite Carillon
(p. 175). — Our line now turns to the left (W.), quits the river,
and enters the province of Ontario. 49 M. 8t, Euglne; 64 M. Stardale.
— 58 M. Vankleek Hill is the junction of branch-lines to (7^/2 M.)
Hawkesbury (to the N., on the river; 4150 inhab. in 1901) and to
(131/2 M.) OUn Robertson (S.; p. 176). — 61 M. McAlpin, The
country traversed is uninteresting but well adapted for farming.
66 m. Caledonia Springs (168 ft.; ^Caledonia Springs Hotel,
belonging to the C.P.R., from $3; Lake Cottage, Victoria Cottage,
$11/2)1 * resort frequented for its alkaline-saline ^ringSjj which
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GI^ENVILLE. 34, Route. 175
are especially efficacious in gout, rheumatism, and affections of the
digestive organs. — The railway runs hence for the most part through
uncleared woodland, marred at places byforest-flres. — TOM. Alfred;
76 M. Plcmtagenet (C.P.B. Hotel, Wilson's Hotel, $3-4), a O.P.R.
divisional point, with mineral springs ; 80 M. Pendleton ; 86 M. The
Brook; 89 M. Hammond; 96 M. Leonard; 99 M. Navan; 106 M.
Blackburn,
112 M. Ottawa (Central Station), see p. 176.
b. Vi& Calumet.
121 M. Canadian Pacific Railway in 4Vs ^ts. (fares as at p. 174).
Montreal, see p. 126. The train runs through the E. part of the
city to (6 M.) Mile End, passes the Convent of the Sacred Heart (on
the hills to the right), crosses a branch of the Ottawa at (10 M.I
Bordeaux, and diverges to the left from the line to Quebec at (13 M.J
St MaHin Junction (p. 139). At (18 M.) Ste. Rose, a French vU-
lage, frequented as a summer-resort, we cross the northernmost branch
of the Ottawa. The valley of the Ottawa, which we now follow, is
occupied mainly by long narrow French farms. We cross numerous
streams. — 20 M. Ste. ThirUe Junction,
From Sts. TsfiBftss To Nomining, 104 M., railway in 4s/4 hrs. (fares
$3.55, $2.60). This line runs to the N.W., penetrating the Laureniian Mi*.
and affording access to several favourite sporting resorts. — 8M. 8t. Janvier;
14 M. St. Jirdme, also a station of the O.N.Q.R. (see p. 142); 25 M. Montfort
Junction^ for the G.N.Q.R. line from Montreal to Montfort, Sixteen Island iMke,
and Bub9rdeau. — 34 M. St. Margaret; 38 M. Vai Morin (Laurentian Lodge,
$ 2); 44 M. Ste. Agathe, a sporting centre -, 57 M. St. Fauttin; 65 H. St. Jovite;
71 M. Mont Tremblant; 81 M. Ltibelle ; 95 M. Annonciation. — 104 M. Nomining
(Gauthier, $ IVa), on Lake NomiMng.
From Ste. Th^r^se branch-lines also run to (8 M.) St. Ewtaehe and (15 M.)
St. Lin, the birthplace of Sir WilfHd Laurler (b. 1841).
28 M. St. Augustin; 33 M. Ste. Scholastique; 38 M. St. Hermas. —
44 M. Lachute, with mills and (1901) 2022 inhab., is the station for
St. Andrews. At (68 M.) Orenville (Victoria; p. 186) we reach the
Ottawa, thft N. bank of which we henceforth follow pretty closely
(views to left). From Grenville a short railway runs to Carillon (p. 174).
The Laurentian Hills (p. 161) rise to the right
60 M. Calumet (Rail. Restaurant), at the confluence of the Ottawa
and River Rouge. — 71 M. Fassett; 76 M. MontebeUo (p. 184); 79 M.
Papineauville (v. 184). At (84 M.) Plaimnce we cross the North
Nation River. 91 M. Thurso ; 94 M. Lochaber. Just beyond (100 M.)
Buckingham (2936 inhab. in 1901), whence a branch-line runs to
the N. into a district of phosphate, mica, and plumbago mines, we
cross the Ltkvre Rioer, with its fine rapids (best view to the right).
115 M. Oatineau. As we approach Ottawa we obtain a fine view of
the Parliament Buildings (p. 177) and cross the Oatineau River,
In crossing from (119 M.) Hull (p. 180) to (121 M.) Ottawa (R. 36;
Union Station) we see the top of the Chaudiere Falls (1.; p. 180).
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176 Route 35, OTTAWA. HoUU,
c. Yik Grand Trunk Railway.
116 M. Railway in 8-4 hrs. (fares as at p. 174). This line traverses
Ontario, keeping to the S. of the Ottawa.
From Montreal to (37 M.) Coteau Junction, see p. 188. Lines
diverge here to Valleyfield (jp, 16), Rouse's Point (p. 14), andflft. Al-
bans (p. 15), At (44 M.) 8t. Polycarpe Junction, with the usual
tin-spired church (left), we cross the C.P.R. (see p. 186), and beyond
(48 M.) 8te, Justine^ we leave Quebec and enter Ontario. 54 M. Qlen
Robertson (p. 174) is the junction of a line to (131/2 M.) Vankleek
HUl (p. 174) and (21 M.) Hawkesbury (p. 174). — 61 M. AUxandria
(Grand Union, Commercial, $lV2)j » ^^sy little place, with (1901)
1911 inhab. and some mills and factories. — We now descend pretty
rapidly to (68 M.) Greenfield and (72 M.) MaxvOU (lumber). 78 Bt
Moose Creek, with numerous freight -car side-tracks. At (86 M.)
Casselman (Royal Hotel) we cross the North Nation River, Large
stacks of bark are seen at (94 M.) South Indian, the junction of a
branch-line to (8 M.) Hammond, (12 M.) Clarence Creek, and (16 M.)
Rockland, — 105 M. Eastman's Springs (Hotel, $1V2-^) "« fre-
quented by the Ottawans. — We have a good view of Ottawa to the
right as we near it, crossing the C.P.R. and the Rideau River,
116 M. Ottawa (Central Station), see below.
35. Ottawa.
Hallway Stations. Union Railway Station (PI. A, 3), Broad St., for {he
G. P. R. trains to Montreal, Toronto, and the West; Central Railway Btation^
to the 8. of Sappers Bridge (PI. D, 8), for the Grand Trunk and New Toric
&, Ottawa railways and for the G.P.B. ^Short Line' to Montreal.
Hotels. BussBLL House (PI. a; D, 8), Sparks St, near the Parliament
Buildings, $2>/s-4, B. from $ 1; Grand Unioit (PL b: D, 8), City Hall So.,
$2-3; WiNDsoB (PL c; D, 8), cor. of Queen St. and Metcalfe St., $2-3;
Brunswick (PL d; D, 8), 122 Sparks St., $ IVs, unpretending. The hotels
are apt to be crowded during the Parliamentary session (usually Feb.-May),
and it is then advisable to order rooms in advance. Ottawa is still much
in need of a really first-class hotel, but it is hoped that the railway-com-
panies will soon supply this want. — Boarding Houtes ($5-8 per week)
&nd Fumisfied Apartment* (from $2 per week) are numerous. Information may
b6 obtained at the T. M. G. A., cor. of Queen and O'Connor Sts. (PL D, 8),
or at the T. W. G. A., cor. of Metcalfe St. and Laarier Ave. West (PL D, 4).
Bettaurantt. At the above-named hotels; Bodega, 34 Wellington St.;
Qwen't, 15 Elgin St., unpretending, D. 25c. ; Walker, Bvmt, Sparks St. (Nos.
73,78; these two confectioners); Railway Restaurant*. — Mi** Stewart" * Tea
Room*, Sparks Si
Oabt. Within the area bounded by the Ottawa Biver and George
St. (N.), William and Nicholas Str. (E.), Laurier Ave. (S.), and Bank St (W.)
the fare for 1 pers. is 25 c. for each addit. pers 15 c. Outside this area
and within 8 M. of the city limits the charge is 50 c. per 20 min. for
1-2 pers., 75 c. for 34 pers., each 20 min. additional 25 c. Per hour, with
one horse, $ 1, each subsequent Vi hr. 20 c. ; with two horses $ 1.25, 26 c. —
Beasonable baggage free. — One-half more from 11 p. m. to 7 a. m.
Tramways (cars lighted, heated, and propelled by electricity generated
by the Chaudi^re Falls) run through the chief streets, passing most of the
important public buildings, and to Rideau Hall (PL G, 1), RoekcUffe Park
(p. 181), etc. IJniform fare 5 c. — Electric Railway* also run to Hull (p. 180;
5c.; thrice hourly), Britannia (p. 182; 5 c.), Aylmerfi^. 182: jlOc), etc.
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Situation. OTTAWA. 36. Route. 177
Steamers ply down the Ottawa to Orenvilk and Montreal (see B. 37) and
throngh the Aideau Canal to (120 M.) Kingston (see p. 227).
Bidean Olnb (PI. D, 3), 84 Wellington St., opposite the Parliament
Baildine. — Theatres. Rvtsell Theatre (PI. D, 3), behind the Bassell House;
Cfrand Opera Bow (PI. D, 3), Albert St., between O'Connor and Metcalfe
Sts. •) Vaudeville Theatre (PI. 0, 3), Sparks St., to the W. of Bank St.
Post Office (PI. D, 3), Wellington St. (open 8-8).
General Oonsnl of the United States, Mr. J. G. Fetter, 26 Wellington St.
Ottawa^ the capital of the Dominion of Canada, the residence of
the Govemor-General, and the seat of the Supreme Court, is situated
on the right hank of the Ottawa^ at its confluence with the Rideau^
hoth rivers forming picturesque falls opposite the city (see p. 180).
It fronts on the Ottawa for a distance of ahout 2 M. , rising in the
middle in a cluster of hold hluffs (160 ft), crowned by the noble Par-
liament Buildings (see below). The city, which lies in 45**26' N. lat.
(about 5 M. farther to the S. than Montreal), is divided into an Upper
and a Lower Tovm by the Rideau Canal^ connecting it with Kingston
(see p. 227). To the S. of Parliament Hill lies the commercial part
of the town, including the lumber-district round the Chaudi^re Falls
(p. 180). J^arhs Street (PI. B-D, 3) is the chief retail business street,
containing the best shops. Ottawa is also important as the seat of a
busy trade in lumber, and its growth has been very rapid, the pop- .
ulation rising from 14,669 in 1861 to 27,412 in 1881 and 69,928 in
1901. The inhabitants are divided nearly equally between the French
and British races and the Protestant and Roman Catholic faiths.
The first settler at the portage round the Chaudi^re Falls was Philemon
Wright of Wobnm (Mass.), who established himself on the Quebec side of
the river (in what is now Hutty p. 180) in 1800. About a score of years
later he transferred his claim to the hills on the opposite side of the river
to a teamster named Sparks, in lieu of a debt of $200. In 1827 the Rideau
Canal was constructed, at a cost of $2,600,000 (600,000<.), to connect Lower
Canada with Lake Ontario and obviate the necessity of vessels ascending
the St. Lawrence under the enemy's fire. The settlement which grew up
at the lower end of this canal was named Bytown, after Col. By, the engineer
officer who had made the surveys for the project, and on its incorporation
as a city (1854), when it had 10,000 inhab., assumed the name of Ottawa.
In 1868 Queen Victoria put an end to the conflicting claims of Montreal
and Quebec, Kingston and Toronto, by selecting Ottawa as the official
capital of the Dominion of Canada.
Selected arbitrarily, like Waphington, Ottawa has followed Washington's
example in attempting to make itself worthy of the position to which it
has been raised, and already ranks as one of the handsomest and best-
kept cities of the Dominion, with abundant promise of rapid improvement
in every direction. Like Washington, too, Ottawa has become the scientific
centre of the country and the headquarters of the chief scientific societies
and collections; while the presence of the Governor-Qeneral makes it,
during the sitting of Parliament, a natural focus of cultivated and fashion-
able society. — The annual valae of the produce of the saw-mills of Ottawa
(260,000,000 ft. of lumber) is about $ 6,000,000. In 1906 the city's valuation
for civic assessment was $37,973,180. The value of its trade in 1905-6
was $5,639,024. The total available water-power within the city limits is
100,000 horse-power, within a radius of 45 M. about 920,000.
See the excellent account of Ottawa by F. A. Dixon in 'Picturesque Canada'.
The most conspicuous single feature in Ottawa is the magnificent
group of ^Government Buildings (PI. D, 3), commandingly situated
Babdek£b's Canada. 3rd Edit. 12
178 Route 35. OTTAWA. Qovemment Buildings,
on a bluff overlooking the Ottawa, and covering an area of four
acres. They were erected in 1869-66, at a cost of over $ 6,000,000
(1 ,000,000 i.), and are in a *style of architecture based on the Gothic
of the 12th cent., combining the elements of grace and simplicity
which the climate of the country seems to require. A cream-coloured
sandstone from the neighbouring district, to which age is fast adding
fresh beauty of colour, with arches over the doors and windows of a
warm red sandstone from Potsdam and dressings of Ohio freestone,
has been happily employed — the effect of colour, apart from form,
being most grateful to the eye' (Dixon). The architects were Fuller
^ Jones (Parliament Building) and Stent ^Laver (Departmental Build-
ings). The buildings are surrounded by beautifully kept lawns, diver-
sified with flower-beds. The central building, with its fine tower
(220 ft high), is 470 ft. in length and is occupied by the Houses of
Pafliament ; the two wings harbour the various Ministerial Of/Ices,
Behind the main building is the ^Library of Parliament , a beautiful
polygonal structure,with a dome supported by gracefulflying buttresses.
'As regards purity of art and manliness of conception, their (i.e. the
architects*) joint work is entitled to the very highest praise. ... I know no
modern Gothic purer of its kind or less sallied with fictitious ornamenta-
tion. ... I know no site for such a set of buildings so happy as regards
both beauty and grandeur' (Anthony Trollops).
The Interior is neat and plain in ita appointments, but there are good
stone carvings at various points of the halls and corridors of the Parliament
Building. The Senate Chamber^ to the right of the entrance, and the Souse of
Commons^ to the left, are commodious and business-like apartments. Daring
the sitting of Parliament visitors are admitted to the public galleries by
a Member^s order, which strangers can generally procure on application to
one of the messengers; admission to the Speaker*s gallery requires a Speak-
er's order. The corridor of the Senate has portraits of ex-Speakers, while
the Commons Beading Boom contains portraits of ex-Speakers of the House.
In the Bailway Committee Boom of the House of Commons is a large
picture, by Q. Harris, of the statesmen who brought about the Confederation
of the Dominion in 1S67, with portraits of Sir John Macdonald, Sir Charles
Tupper, Sir Alexander Qalt, Hon. Geoi^e Brown (p. 195), Sir Alex. Camp-
hell, Hon. Thos. D'Arcy McGee, Sir George E. Cartier (see p. 179), Hon.
Joseph Howe (p. 95), Sir S. Leonard Tilley, Hon. Wm. McDougall, and
others. *Few of the speeches delivered in the House can be called in-
spiring. In fact, when not personal, they are prosaic. This can hardly
be helped, for a Canadian Parliament, like Congress in the United States,
deals, as a rule, with matters from which only genius could draw inspi-
ration. The French-Canadian members, in consequence, probably, of tne
classical training that is the basis of their education, are far superior to
their English-speaking co^frires in accuracy of expression and grace of
style. Even when they speak in English these (lualities are noticeable'
(Dixon). — The building to the right (E.) contains the departments of
State, Finance, the iW«y Council^ Justice, and the Auditor Oeneral, and the
Indian Section of the department of the Interior; also the Of/lce of the Oover-
nor-Oeneral. The left wing, the upper floor and roof of which were destroyed
by flre in 1897 and since rebuilt, is devoted to the departments of Public
Works, Bailttays, Marine and Fisheries, Inland Revenue, Trade and Commerce^
and Customs. The Post-Master OenercU, the Minister of Agriculture, and the
Department of the Interior have their quarters in the *Langevin Block or ITme
Departmental Building (Fl. D, 3), a handsome and substantial structure at
the corner of Wellington St. and Elgin St., constructed in 1883 at a cost
of $787,000. [Flans are now being prepared for a new Departmental
block on the E. side of Minor's Hill Park, bounded by Mackenzie Ave.,
IrUerprovincial Bridge. OTTAWA. 35. Route. 179
Suflse : St., Eideau St., and St. Patrick St. (comp. PI. D, E, 8).] The Govern-
ment Archives^ a yalnable and interesting series of wnich has heen edited,
calendared , a d published, are housed in a new building in Sussex St.
(see'*?. 180). The department of JfiUtia has its headquarters in Wood's Build'
*V(P1. D, 3), Slater St. — The only part of the interior- of the Dominion
Baildings on which adornment haa been lavished is the *Librar7 {A. D.
Be CeUes and M. J. Orifjln^ joint librarians), which is one of the most beau-
tiful and convenient structures for its purpose in America. It now contains
250,000 vols., including many on Canada, and is free to the public a« a
reference-library (9-4). The book -cases ana panelling are of Canadian pine,
adorned with excellent carving and the arms of the Dominion and prov-
inces. The library, which is lighted by electricity, also contains a statue
of Queen Victoria and busts of King Edward and Queen Alexandra.
The central Tower affords a fine *View of Ottawa, the river, the Chau-
di^re Falls, etc. — Qood views are also obtained from the walks laid out in
the Parliament Hill grounds, especially from the so-called * Lovers^ Walk,
skirting the outside of the blufis, and from the arbour behind the library.
In the W. part of the grounds are statues of Queen Victoria (erected in 1900 to
commemorate the sixtieth anniversary of her accession), Alexander Mackenzie
(1&22-92), and Bir George Etienne Cartier (1814-73), while on the E. side is one
of Bir John Maedonald (d. 1891). All of these are by Hubert (with the help
of Hamilton MacCarthy in that of Mackenzie). Kervous visitors should note
that a time-gun is fired at noon near the Maedonald statue.
The modest little building at the S.W. corner of Parliament Hill is oc-
cupied at present by the SupremeOourt of Canada (PI. C,8), until more worthy
permanent quarters are prepared for it.
In winter the river below the Parliament Buildings is frozen hard, and
trotting-races and other sports are held on it.
Parliament Square Is separated from Wellington Stbeet (PI.
B-D, 3), with its handsome banks and offices, by a low stone wall
with fine iron-work railings and gates. In Wellington St., opposite
the main entrance to the Parliament Grounds and the end of Met-
calfe St. (Pl.D, 3), is a figure of Sir Oalahad, by Keyser, erected to
commemorate the gallant self-sacrifice of Henry A. Harper in 1901.
The pretty littie ^Major's Eill Park (PI. D, 2, 3), to the E. of Par-
liament HiQ, commands good views of the river. It contains a monu-
ment to two Ottawans who fell in the Riel Rebellion (p. 242). On
Nepean Pointj at the end of Major's Hill Park, is the Saluting Battery
(guns of 1797). At this point the Ottawa is crossed by the impos-
ing ^Boyal Alexandra or Interproyinolal Bridge (PI. D, 1, 2),
completed in 1902 at a cost of $ 1,260,000. It is composed of one
cantilever span (556 ft. long), two anchor arm spans (each 247 ft.
long), and two truss spans (247 ft. and 140 ft.). It comprises a single
railroad-track, two tram way- tracks, and two roadways. A walk across
this bridge and back is recommended for the fine views it affords.
At the S. end of Major's HiU Park the Bideau Canal (p. 177) is
crossed by the Dufferin Bridge and the Sappers Bridge (PI. D, 3),
forming an acute angle with each other. From the former a striking
view is obtained of the six locks by which the canal makes its final
descent to the Ottawa River.
Following Sussex Stbbet (PL D, 2, 3) to the left (N.) from the
end of the Sappers Bridge, we soon reach the office of the Oeological
Survey of Canada (PI. D,3), containing a very interesting and unusually
well-arranged *Museum (open, free, 9-4). Director, Mr, A\^xA^'
180 Route 35, OTTAWA. Rideau Hall.
Farther out, in the same street, in the midst of a French popula-
tion, is the Roman Catholic Cathedral of Notre Dame, or the Baailica
(PI. D,E, 2), with its twin towers, 200 ft. in height. It contains a paint-
ing ascribed to MurUlo, In front of it is a Statue of Bishop OuigtteSf
first Bishop of Ottawa (1848-74). — Nearly opposite is the Oovem-
ment Prmting Bureau, a large brick building (King's Printer, Dr.S. E,
Dawaori). A little farther on are the Orey Nunnery (r. ; PI. D,E, 2),
the new Archives (1. ; PI. D, 2), and the new Mint (1. ; PI. D, 2).
Beyond the Mint Sussex St (tramway) bends to the right, and
we reach the point where the Rideau forms the pretty little *curtain-
like' Rideau Falls (30 ft. high ; PI. F, 1) as it joins the Ottawa. [To
see them we have to pass through a lumber-yard j they are best seen
from a boat on the Ottawa.] Adjacent is the Edwards Saw Mtt, a visit
to which is full of interest. — Crossing the bridge and following the
prolongation of Sussex St, we soon reach the grounds of *Bideau
Sail (Pi. G, 1), the residence of the Governor-General of Canada.
Bideau Hall is a large, rambling, and plain bat comfortable edifice.
The grounds are pretty, but not bo fine as those of Spencer Wood (p. 155).
They contain a Skating Pond and Toboggan Slide, which present a very gay
and lively scene in winter. The Princess Vista^ cut through the woods
at the instance of the Princess Louise, affords a charming view of the
Ottawa and the mountains beyond it.
Another pleasant route to or from Bideau Hall is afforded by King
Edward Avenue (PI. E, 1-^ and the Minto Bridget (PI. F, 1).
EarneeUffy on the cliffs overlooking the river, near the lodge of Bideau
Hall, was the home of Sir John Maedonald (p. 179) in his later years.
From Rideau Hall we may go direct by tramway (p. 176) to the
Ghaudi^be Bbidgb (PI. B, 2), just above which are the fine *ClLau-
di^re Falls, where the Ottawa, narrowed to about 200 ft., descends
50 ft. over ragged ledges of rock.
The water-power here is used by countless Saw Mills, a visit to one of
which will be of great interest to the visitor unacquainted with the mar-
vellous perfection and delicacy of the machinery for converting rough forest-
trees into trim yellow planks and shingles. Thousands of logs are floating in
the adjacent ^booms*; and the surface of the smoother parts of the river is
covered with saw-dust shining like gold in the sunlight. It is estimated that
there are usually 125,(XX),(XX) ft of lumber on the Chaudifere *piling grounds*.
Near the falls are the Timber Slides, by which the lumber from the
upper river descends to the navigable water below. The squared logs are
made up into ^cribs' just fitting into the slides*, and it is one of the re-
cognized items of a visit to Ottowa to Vun the slides* as a passeneer on
one of these rafts. This is an exciting experience, unattended by cDamger,
and permission to go down is easily obtained from those in charge.
. On the opposite side of the river here Tin the province of Quebec), is the
suburban town of Hull, with (1901) 13,993 inhab., most of whom are con-
nected in one form or another with the lumber-industry or with the laz^
Eddy Pulp and Paper Mills. It i3 connected by electric tramwav with Ottawa
(via the InterprovinCial Bridge, p. 179) and with Aylmer (p. 182). Bailway
stations, see pp. 175, 182. Near Hull are the large works of the International
Portland Cement Co.
At the comer of Queen St. and O'Connor St. stands the building
(PI. C, D, 3) which is occupied, in somewhat curious juxtaposition,
by the National Art Gallery and the risheries Exhibit (open, free,
10-5, on Sat. 10^2). [A large new building, the Vktona Nfitional
Digitized byCjOOQlC
Art Gallery. OTTAWA. 35. Route. 181
Museum, is in course of erection in Appin Place (PI. D, 5), at a cost
of $ 1,250,000, and is intended to house all the national collections.]
The Fitheries Exhibit occupies the groundfloor and the hasement, the
process of breeding and hatching fish being shown in the latter.
The National Art Oalkry is small and contains chiefly Canadian works;
Among its contents are Time, Death, and Judgment, by 0. Wattt, R. A. ;
a small painting by Maratta; a portrait of Hiss Montalba, the artist, by the
Princesi Louise; portraits of Sir John Macdonald (by Patterson), the Harqnis
of Lome (by Millais), and Dr. Kingsford, the historian (by C. E. Moss);
Mortgaging the Homestead, by Q. A. Beid; Cape Trinity (p. 170), by L. R.
O^Brien; a copy of West's Death of Wolfe? Beacon Light in the Harbour
of St. John's, by H. Sandham; Teacher *talking over' the Trustees of a
Back Settlement School, by R.Harris; Death of Nelson, by O.P.Reinagle;
Nude girl, by Paul Peel; Al fresco concert, by E. W. Qrier; Shipping, by
J. Hammond; Ambuscade, by Roy; 'C'est toujours le mSme Chanson', by
Paul Ouillot; The Charge, by if. Chartier; Group by H. Tenkate; Westminster,
by F, Bowles; Dreaming, by 0. A. Reid; and landscapes by John A. Eraser^
0. R. Jaeobi^ Mower Martin, Melbye, Homer Watson^ Wm. Raphael, F. M. Bell
Smith, R, O'Brien, F. S, Challener, Wm. Hope, and Forshaw Day.
Among the other principal buildings of Ottawa not yet mention-
ed are the ^Carnegie Library (PI. D, 4), at the comer of Laurier Ave.
and Metcalfe St., opened in 1906 (librarian, Mr. Burpee); Ottawa
University (PI. E, 4), a Roman Catholic institution with 500 students
(including the academy), rebuilt since a destructive fire in 1903;
the Normal School, the Brill Hall (with a museum of military relics),
and the Collegiate Institute, aU in Gartier Square (PI. D, 4) ; the City
HaU (PI. D, 3), with a Boer War Monument in front of it; the Court
House and Oaol (PI. E, 3); the Lady Stanley Institute (PI. G, 3);
the Contagious Diseases Hospital (PI. F, G, 5) ; and various other Hospi-
tals and Nunneries. — The Water Works (PI. B, 3) are interesting. —
^Rockcliffe Park, IY2M. to the N.E. of the city limits, is reached by
a charming road leading from the entrance to Rideau Hall through
green fields and shady groves (tramway 5 c). It affords beautiful
views of the Ottawa and is about to be greatly extended. About
2 M. to the E. of it is the Dominion Rifle Range, the scene of the
annual meeting of the Dominion Rifle Association, where the crack
shots are chosen for the team that represents Canada at the inter-
national shooting-contest at Bisley (England). — Lansdowne Park,
at the opposite end of the city, is the scene of the Central Canada
Annual Exhibition, the chief lacrosse - matches , etc. It is best
approached by the beautiful new ♦Canal Deivbway, beginning
at Cartier Sq. (PI. D, 4) and skirting the Rideau Canal, but it may
also be reached by tramway (5 c.) or canal-steamer (10 c). — Strath-
cona Park (PI. G, 4) is new ; and the Ottawa Improvement Com-
mission is hard at work in beautifying the city in various other ways.
About 1 H. to the S.W. of the city lies the * Central Government
Experimental Farm (467 acres) , where information can be obtained as to
the soil and vegetable productions of the various parts of the Dominion.
It is situated on high ground and affords some fine views. The farm
is open to visitors daily, the buildings daily except Sunday. Director,
I>r. William Saunders. It is pleasantly reached viE the extension of the
just-mentioned Driveway. The electric tramway ends about 1 M. from the
farm. Some idea of the extent to which the work of the farm comes into
182 Route 35. OTTAWA.
contact with fanners throughout Canada may be gathered from the fact
that in 1904 no fewer than 55,366 letters were received and 876,196 letters,
hulletins, and reports were sent ont. — On the grounds of the farm is the
Dominion Astronomioal Observatory, a substantial stone building, the ad-
mirable equipment of which includes a 15-inch equatorial telescope. Director,
Dr. W. F. King. Visitors are admitted on week-days, 9.30 to 4.30, and on Sat.
evening after dark. — Among other points of interest in the environs are
the Bulphuv Spring »^ 5 M. from the city, on the road to Montreal { the
Cascades of the Oatineau River (10 M.), reached by road or railway; Kettle
Island Park^ 2 M. distant (steamer at frequent intervals); Britannia (see
below!); and Aylmer (see below). — Good shooting and fishing can be
obtained within easy access of Ottawa (comp. pp. li, l\r, Ivi).
From Ottawa to Montreal^ see BR. 84, 87; to Winnipeg^ etc., see BR.
48-54 ; to Parry Bound, see B. 41 ; to Kingston vift the Rideau Lakes, see B. 86.
Fbom Ottawa to Toronto, 256 M., Can. Pac. Railway in 8-9 hrs. (fare
$7.85, parlor-car $1, sleeper $2). — From Ottawa to(46M.) BmUh's FaUs^
see below I thence to (256 M.) Toronto^ see pp. 186-188.
From Ottawa to Prescott, 52 M., CancuHan Pacijic Railway in 2-8 hrs.
(fare $2.10). At (81 M.) Kemptville Junction (p. 186) we intersect the G. P. B.
line from Montreal to Toronto (see B. 88 a). — 52 M. Prescott, see p. 229.
From Ottawa to Waltham, 81 M., Canadian Pacific Railway in 81/4 hrs.
(fare $2.80). — This line follows the N. bank of the Ottawa above the
capital. — 10 M. Aylmer (Yietoria. $ 2-3; Brown Ho., Ketmedy Central, $ l>/«),
on Lake DeschSnes, with (1901) 2204 inbab., is a favourite resort of the
Ottawans. It may also be reached by electric railway (p. 176). Queen'' s Park
here offers various popular attractions. Steamer to Britannia, see below. —
69 M. Fort Coulonge lies nearly opposite Pembroke (p. 231). — 81 M. Waltham,
From Ottawa to Maniwaju, 83 M., Can. Pac. Railway in 8V4-6 hrs.
(fare $2.70). This line ascends the pretty ^Gatineau Valley, with its wealth
of lumber and sporting facilities. — The train crosses the Interprovincial
Bridge (p. 179) to (2 M.) Hutt (p. 180). 9 M. Chelsea; 18 M. Kirk's Ferry;
17 M. Cascades ; 28 M. Wakefield; 81 M. Farrellton; 36 M. Low; 48 M. Kasa-
batua; 50 M. Aylwin; 60 M. Oracefield (King Edward, $1); 68 M. Blue Sea;
73 M. Burbridge. — 83 M. Maniwaki (Laurentian, Maniwaki, $ IVs). There
is some prospect of running a line across from this point to Komining Q>. 175).
From Ottawa to Smith's Falls and Brockvillb, 74 M., Can. Pac.
Railway in 2>/4-4 hrs. (fare $2.45). — As we leave Ottawa we have good
views of the Ottawa River to the right, with its burden of lumber. — 6 M.
Britannia, a summer-resort on a bay of the Ottawa, has a popular park,
with a good bathing-beach, boating, a long pier, band-concerts, and vaude-
ville performances. Britannia may also be reached by electric car (p. 176),
and a , steamer plies across the bay to Aylmer (see above). — Farther on
we soon lose sight of the river. At (28 M.) Carleton Junction (Bail. Bestan-
rant) we diverge to the left (8.) from the transcontinental line (see p. 231).
At (46 M.) 8mith*s Falls (Bail. Bestaurant) we cross the C.P.B. line from
Montreal to Toronto (B. 38 a). 63 M. Wo^ord; 69 M. Fairfield. — 74 M.
BrockvUle, see p. 229.
From Ottawa to Cornwall and Topper Lake, 129 M., New York A
Ottawa Railway in 4>/4-5 hrs. (fare $9.50). — This line runs from Ottawa
(Central Station) towards the S.B. 5M. Hawthorne; 7 M. RamsayviUe; ISys M.
Edwards; 20 M. Ruuell; 23V2 M. Embrun; 27V2 M. Cambridge. At (31 Vs M.)
Crysler we cross the Petite Nation and at (38 M.) Finch (p. 188) we inter-
sect the G. P. B. (B. 88 a). 42 M. Newington; 481/3 M. Black Rher. — At
(57 M ) Cornwall (see p. 229) we cross the St. Lawrence and enter New York
State. 63V2 M. Helena; U^t M. Moira; 86 M. St. Regis Falls ; 97 M. SpHng
Cove; 107 M. Brandon. — From the present terminus, (129 M.) Tiwer
Lake, in the Adirondack Mts., this line is to be eventually extended to
Korth Greek, where it will join a continuous railway route to Hew York
(comp. BaedekerU United States).
yGoogk
183
36. From Ottawa to Kingston by Steamer.
145 M. Stbambr op thb Bidbau Lakes Nayiqatioh Co., thrice weekly
in 26 hrs. (fare $ 3.80; berth $ 1.50; meals 75 c. each.).
This is a favourite tourist-route, passing through some fine scenery
and no less then 36 locks. The Rideau Lakes consist of a chain of ten
lakes, through which the steamer passes. They were used by the British
Government in the war of 1812 for the transport of military sappUes, and
in 1832, by the deepening of the connections between the lakes, and the
building of the locks, the lake-system was made available for navigation
all the way from Ottawa to Kingston, on Lake Ontario. The excellent
duck-shooting and bass-fishing of the district attract many sportsmen and
anglers. Fair accommodation may be had at many of the villages en route.
Ottawa, see p. 176. Ou leaviug the Canal Basin we pass Lans-
downe Park (p. 181). At (4 M. \ r.) Hogshaek (so called from the
shape of the ridge skirted by the canal or from the many ronnded boul-
ders in the stream) we quit the canal, pass through two locks, and
enter the Rideau River. — 8 M. (1.) Black RapidSy with a lock and
an immense dam. From (16 M.) Long Island to (44 M. ; r.) Bur-^
riifa Rapids (O'Neill House, $ I1/2) we steam through Long Reach ^
affording the longest continuous run of the route (28 M.") — 49 M.
(r.) MerriekviUe. — The district near (57 M. ; r.) Kilmarnock is a
noted duck-shooting ground.
65 M. (r.) Smith's Falls (see p. 186) lies nearly halfway from
Ottawa to Kingston. Beyond Smith's Falls we thread the so-called
'Nalrows', passing (74 M.) Rideau Ferry, and enter *Big Bideau
Lake, 21 M. long and 6 M. wide, with its numerous islands. About
halfway down the lake the steamer turns to the left, enters German
Bay J and calls at (86 M. ; 1.) Portland (Garrett's Rest, Commercial
House, $ IV2-2), a pleasant summer-resort. Beyond German Bay
we past through another cut, also known as the ^Narrows', and enter
Littte or Upper Bideau Lake, 6 M. long, 495 ft. above the sea, and
225 ft. above Lake Ontario. — 97 M. Westport (several boarding-
houses), the terminus of the Brockville and Westport Railway (see
p. 188), is a flourishing little village on the W. shore of Little
Rideau, with Wolfe Lake to the W. of it. Leaving Westport, the
steamer retraces its way across the lake to (103 M. ; 1.) Newboro
(New Rideau, $ 2-3), between the Little Rideau and Mud Lake,
which marks the ridge of a watershed, the waters in one direction
running towards Kingston and in the other towards Ottawa. It is
a favourite resort of sportsmen and anglers.
115 M. (1.) Jones Falls (Hotel Kenny, $ IV2-2), at the end of
Sand Lake, is one of the most attractive spots on the route. There
are four deep locks, and a fine horseshoe-shaped dam 400 ft. long
and 100 ft. high, constructed at a cost of 80,0002. The falls f^om
which the town takes its name are small but picturesque. — After
leaving Jones Falls we pass through the small Whitefish Lake, and
come to Little and Big Cranberry Lakes, the last of the chain.
At (127 M. ; 1.) Brewers Mills Locks we enter a stretch of 10 M.
formed by backing up the waters of the Catarfiqui River, and known
184 Route 37. . THURSO. From Ottawa
as the 'Drowned Lands'. The channel is narrow and rocky, and at
one place a rock, supposed to resemble the profile of the Duke of
Wellington, projects from the bluff.
Entering the Cataraqui River proper, remarkable for its winding
course and beautiful scenery, we pass (139 M. ; 1.) Kingiton Mills,
and reach —
146 M. Kingston (see p. 227).
Connection is made here with a steamer crossing the St. Lawrence to
Clayton, New York State (see Baedeker" i United States).
37. From Ottawa to Montreal by Steamer.
ISO M. Stbambb ^Empbbss* of thb Ottawa Stbam Navioatiok Go. daily
in summer, starting about 8 a.m., in lOVs-H hn. (fare $2.50; return-fare
$4; round trip, allowing one way by railway, $5; meals extra). In the
reverse direction passengers leave Montreal by train at 8 a.m. and join the
boat at Lachi9te (p. 280), and the trip thence to Ottawa takes about 10 hrs.
The trip downstream is, however, preferable, as it includes the exciting
passage of the Lachine Rapids (see p. 230). The steamers are comfortable
and contain fair restaurants. — A local steamer CVictoria') also plies from
Ottawa to Thuno, starting at 4 p.m. and returning next morning (fare 26 c.;
round trip to Cumberland by the 'Victoria' and back by the *Empress* 40 c).
The Ottawa, the Qrand River of the early voyageurs, is the largest
tributary of the St. Lawrence, being 615 M. long and draining an area of
80.000 sq. H. It rises in the W. part of the province of Quebec, about
200 M. in a direct line to the N. of Ottawa, and flows first for 180 H.
towards the W., then to the S., S.E., and E., thus making a large U-
sbaped loop open to the £. It forms the boundary between Quebec and
Ontario for about 400 M., and falls into the St. Lawrence at the Isle of
Montreal. The Ottawa is navigable for 250 M., the rapids and falls being
avoided by canals. It is very picturesque and is fringed with magnificent
forests, yielding some of the finest timber in the world. Some of the nu-
merous tributaries are of considerable size.
Ottawa, see p. 176. As we leave tbe wbarf we have a good view
of tbe Chaudihre Falls (p. 180) and the Parliament Buildings. Large
lumber-yards line the banks. About 1 M. below the city the Ottawa
is joined on the left (N.) by the Qatineau, a strong and important
lumbering-stream. — 8M. (1.) East Templeton. — 20 M. (r.) Cumber-
land, — 21 M. (1.) Buckingham (p. 175) ; the village lies on the Lftwc,
4 M. above the steamboat-landing. — 26 M. (r.) Rockland (Toque's
Hotel), with saw-mills. — 29 M. (1.) Thurso (Ottawa Beach Board-
ing House). The Thurso Islands are a fayourite resort of excur-
sionists. A little farther on we pass the mouth of the North Nation
p. 175), opposite which is that of the smaller South Nation. —
.6 M. Wendover. — 40 M. Treadwell.
41 M. (1.) Papineauville (Chabot's Hotel) was named for Louis
Joseph Papineau (see below). — 46 M. (L) MonteheUo (hotel and
boarding-houses) contains the pretty tree-shaded ch&teau in which
Louia Joseph Papineau (d. 1871), the leader, in Lower Canada, of the
unsuccessful rebellion of 1837-8 (see p. 192), lived after his return
from banishment. Most of the reforms for which he fought were
afterwards secured by constitutional means ; but after his pardon,
he, unlike his fellow-leader Sir George Cartier (p. ^91 Ufred in
to Montreal. OKA. 37. Route, 185
retirement and took comparatiTely little part in politics, though he
was a member of the legislative assembly from 1848 to 1854. —
59 M. (r.) UOrignal (Ottawa Hotel; L'Orignal Hotel) is the landing-
place for (10 M.) Caledonia Springs (p. 174 ; can. to meet steamer
on application to Manager of the Caledonian Springs Hotel).
64 M. (1.) OrenviUe (p. 175), which we reach about noon, lies
at the head of the Long SatUt, Chute au BlondeaUf and Carillon
Rapids, Vessels avoid the rapids by two short canals; but the
steamboat-passengers, to prevent delay, are transferred by a broad-
gauge railway (5 ft. 6 in.) from Grenville to (13 M.) CarUlon^ where
another steamer ('Sovereign') meets them. The Ottawa is crossed
here by the bridge of the Canadian Northern Quebec Railway from
Joliette to Hawkesbury (p. 142).
The river at this part of its coarse is very deep and narrow, and its banks
are steep. The Long Saolt Pass is hallowed by the memory of the young
DauUxe or DoUard. 8ieur dei Ormeaux, and his sixteen comrades, who here
laid down their lives to save Ville Marie (p. 129). The Iroquois had de-
termined to drive the French into the sea, but the obstinate resistance
offered by the gallant little body of Frenchmen in the small palisaded fort
they erected on the S. bank of the river here, about halfway between
OrenviUe and Carillon, daunted them so that they gave up the enterprise.
About 800 Indians joined in the attack, and everyone of the Frenchmen
perished. Comp. the ballad by Mr. Oeorgt Murray. — On the S. shore
lies Hawkesbury (p. 174).
77 M. (1.) Carillon (Sovereign Hotel ; Kelly's ; Bellevue Boarding
House, well spoken of) lies at the foot of a small hill affording a
charming view (golf-links). Below this point both banks are in the
province of Quebec. A little farther on the Ottawa expands into
the pretty *Lake of Two MauntainSf which extends hence, with a
width of 3-5 M., all the way to the Island of MontreaL — 82 M. (r.)
Rigaud (p. 174). — 88 M. (1.) Pointe aux AnglaU. — 92 M. (r.)
Hudson (Hudson-on-the-Lake Hotel). — 93 M. (1.) Como (Pens.
Brasseur), a summer-resort.
94 M. (1.) Oka (hotels and boarding-houses), a village inhabited
by some remnants of the Iroquois and Algonquin Indians, lies on the
N. bank , at the base of the *Two Mountains' which give name to
the lake. Mt. Calvary, the higher of the two, is ascended by a *Route
de Calvaire', with shrines marking the seven ^Stations of the Cross'
(fete and pilgrimage on Sept. 14th). On the other hill is a Trappist
Monastery^ the monks of which, living under the most rigidly ascetic
rules, cultivate a large farm. Their cheese (Tort du Salut') has a
wide reputation. Stages meet the steamer to take visitors to the
monastery, to which, however, men only are admitted.
The lake now expands, and the river divides into the four chan-
nels through which it joins the St. Lawrence, forming the islands of
Perroty Montreal, and Jesus. We follow the main channel, between
the isle of Perrot on the right and that of Montreal on the left.
103 M. (1.) Ste. Anne da Boat de VUe or de Bellevae (^Clarendon
Hotel, $2-o; Raymond, Canada, Ste, Anne, $1-1V2)> a quaint and
picturesque French village with about 360 inhab., situated at th|j^.
186 RouU 38. SMITH'S FALLS.
end of the Isle of Montreal, has been immortalized by Moore's 'Canadian
Boat Song'. The little white church near the canal is the one to
which Moore refers, while the honse in which the poet lived is also
shown. Just beyond are the picturesque remains ofChdteau BoishriafU
or Smnevaie (1699), in the grounds of Sir John Abbott (d. 1893),
late premier of the Dominion. Ste. Anne, which is also a station
of the 0. P. R. (see below) and the G. T. R. (see p. 188), affords
good boating, fishing (black bass, maskinonge, and dor^ or wall-
eyed pike), and shooting (ducks and partridges). It attracts many
summer-visitors, and near it are the summer-homes of several wealthy
Montrealers. — The steamer now passes a short canal, with one lock,
shoots under two railway-bridges, and reaches Lake 8t. Louis (p. 230).
121 M. (L) Lachine^ and thence via the *Lachine Bapida to —
130 M. (1.) Montreal, see R. 47.
38. From Montreal to Toronto.
a. Yik Canadian Faciflo Bailway.
838 M. Railway in 10-11 hrs. (fare $10; sleeper $2, parlor-ear $i)
Bu£fet-caT8 on all trains. Through-tickets are issaed to western point* yi&
Toronto by the *Lake Route' (see B. 46); these are interchangeable with
direct railway-tickets (see R. 48).
Montreal (Windsor St. Station), see p. 125. As we leave we
have a good retrospect of the city (left). At (6 M.) Montreal Junc-
tion (p. 48) the line to Boston diverges to the left (see p. 19).
A little farther on we see Lachine (p. 230) and the St. Lawrence
Bridge of the 0. P. R. to the left. 10 M. Doroalj with golf-links
(p. 127). At (21 M.) Ste. Anne de BelUvue (p. 185) we cross one of
the arms of the Ottawa and leave the Island of Montreal, and at
(24 M.) VaudreuU (Central Hotel) we cross another mouth of the
Ottawa. This is the diverging point of the * Short Line' to Ottawa
(R. 34a). Our line now leaves the river and runs towards the S.W.
through the fertile district between the St. Lawrence and the Ottawa.
Many orchards and tracts of woodland are passed. At (41 M/) St. Poly-
carpe Junction we cross the Grand Trank Railway (p. 176). Near
(47 M.) DalhousU MiUs we enter Ontario (p. 192). 63 M. AppU HUL
At (79 M.) Finch we intersect the *New York & OtUwa Railway'
(p. 182). S7U.Che8terville]^^ M.Winchester. At (108 M.) ^«mp«-
ville Junction we intersect the O.P.R. line from Ottawa to Prescott
(see p. 182), and at (120 M.) Merrickville we cross the Bideau River
by a long iron bridge.
129 M. Smith's -FaJU (Bideau, $2; Bussell Ho., $1V2J ^a'^-
Bestaurant), a brick-making and manufacturing town of (1901) 5155
inhab., on the Bideau Canal (see p. 183), is the junction of lines to
the S. to Brockville (p. 229) and to the N. to Carleton Junction (for
Ottawa and the main transcontinental line of the O.P.R.). To the
left lies Big Bideau Lake (p. 183). — 141 M. Perth (BicksEo., $ ll/a),
a small town with (1901) 3588 inhab., several mills, a manufactory of
yGoogk
yGoogk
yGoogk
yGoogk
PETERBOROUGH. 38. Rouie, 187
railway rolling-stock, and some good quarries and phosphate-mines.
The country traversed is unattractiTe. — From (166 M.) Sluirbot Lake
Junction lines run to the S. to Kingston (p. 227) and to the N. to
Renfrew, Good shooting is obtained here (comp. p. It) and the
scenery is attractive, with lakes on both sides of ^e railway. —
207 M. 2\ceed (Hoyck's Hotel, $ IV25 1168 inhab.), on the Moira,
is the junction of a line to Napanee (p. 189) and Kingston (p. 227).
To the left lies Lake Stooo, At (216 M.) Jvanhoe we cross a branch
of the G.T.R. ; and at (225 M.) Central Ontario Junction we intersect
the Central Ontario Railway, running from Ptcton (p. 189) and Trenton
(p. 189) to various iron-mines in the N. 238 M. Havelodc^ a railway
divisional point, with (1901) 984 inhab.; 244 M. Norwood (King's j
McGregor's), with (1901) 946 inhabitants.
262 M. Feterboroagh (Orim<a2 Hotel, $ 2-2V8 > National, $ 1 1/2-^ ;
V, 8, Agent), an important railway-centre and industrial city, with
ri901) 11,239 inhab., lies on the Otonabee, which here descends
160 ft. within a few miles and affords the motive power for numerous
mills, large electrical engineering works, and other manufactories.
The country of which this is the focus is full of pretty lakes and
rivers, offering much to attract both tourist and sportsman. The so-
called *Rice Lake' or ^Peterborough' canoe originated here.
Peterborough also lies on the so-called Trenton Waterwap (p. 189) ^ and
the Hydraulic Lift Lock here is the largest in the world and of great
interest to engineers. The lock consists of two huge steel chambers or
pontoons (140 ft. by 83 ft.)* working up and down between guiding towers.
The vessel enters one of the chambers and is raised 66 ft. by loading
down the other chamber with water. The operation takes 12 minutes.
Bice Lake (Jubilee Point Hotel, $ 1), with its maakinonge and baas
fishing, lies about 10 M. to the S.E. This district was the headquarters
of the Mittietauffa Indians, a branch of the Ojibwas.
Fbom Petbrborouoh to Lakbfibld, 9 M., Orand Trunk Railway in
Vs hr. This line forms the shortest approach to the pi^uresque district of
the *Eawartha Lakes (600 ft. above Lake Ontario), which is now rapidly
coming into favour as a shooting, fishing, and summer resort. — Lakefleld
{^Lakefleld Ho., $ IV^ lies at the point where the Otonabee River begins to
expand into Lake Katchewanooka, the first of the Kawartha Lakes, and is the
starting-point of a steamer which plies through the whole chain of lakes
to (70 M.) Chhoeonk, at their W. extremity (see p. 188).
[Stbambr Boutb or Kawabtba Lakes. On leaving Lakefield and Lake
Katchewanooka, the steamer enters Clear Lake Oock) and calls at Young's
Foint (Lakeview Ho., Carleton Ho., $ 1). — From Clear Lake we pass into
•Stony Lake, with its 800 islands and the resorts of Halls Glen (Victoria
Ho., $ 11/^-2), Stony Lake, the Mt. Julian Hotel ($ 1), and the Vicmede ($2).
— In passing from Stony Lake into the £. bay of inckhom Lake we call
at Burleigh Falls (Inn, $ IV2). At the narrow strait leading to the main
part of the lake are HaWs Bridge (1.-, Buckhom Hotel, $ 2) and the Buck-
horn FaUs (r.) — Through the Oannon Narrows we next reach Pigeon Lake,
with some large wooded islands. — Boheaygeon (Boyal, Bockland. Beach-
wood, $ IV**^) one of the chief resorts on the lakes (see also p. 188), lies
on an island between Pigeon Lake and Sturgecn Lake. Here the fteamer
calls at Sturgeon Point, Plecuant Point, and FeneUm Falls (Hotel Kawartha,
9 2-6^ railway, see p. 188). — We next cross the smaller Cameron Lake,
reached by a lock with a rise of 28 ft., and from this we pass into Balaam
Lake, at the entrance to which lies Roeedale, a good camping and fishing
place. The steamer now turns to the N. and reaches the end of the route
188 Route 38, BROOKVILLE. From Montreal
at Coboconi (PatUe Ho., $ 1), which is also the terminus of a railway ran-
ning to LomemUe Junction (p. 190) and Scarboro Junction (p. 190).]
Fbou Pbtesbobouoh to Halibubton, 79 M., Grand Trunk Rctihoay in
6 hrs. This line diverges to the right at (23 M.) Lindsay (Benson Ho.,
$ IV2 2; U. S. Agent i pop. 7033 in 1901) from another line going on to
Lake Simeoe (p. 198), and runs to the K. through the district of the Ka-
toartha Lakes (see p. 187). Steamers ply from Lindsay via the Bcugog
River to various points on the lakes. — 30 M. Cameron^ on Btwrgeon Lake
(see p. 187). At 0t M.) Fenelon Falls (see p. 187) we cross the strait con-
necting Sturgeon Lake with Cameron Lake. 43 M. Bwnt River; 56V2 M.
Kinmount; 66 M. Oelert; 72 M. Dysart. — 79 M. Haliburton (Queen's, Grand
Central, $ 1).
A stage also runs from Peterborough to (6 M.) Chemong Park (Hotel,
$iV^t on Chemong Lake^ the southernmost of the Eawartha Lakes (p. 187).
The district now traversed is feitUe and highly cultivated. Near
(280 M.) Manvers we cross a branch of the G.T.R. From (292 M.)#
Burketon Junction a branch-line mns to Lindsay (see above) and
(39 M.) Bobcaygeon, forming another convenient approach to the
Kawartha Lake Region (seep. 187). 301 M. Myrtle, near Lake Scugog,
is the junction of lines to Whitby (p. 190), Port Perry (a summer-
resort on Lake Scugog, with the Sebert and St. Charles Hotels),
Manilla^ etc. 318 M. Locust Hillj 334 M. Leaside Junction,
338 M. Toronto, see R. 39.
b. Yi& Grand Trunk Bailway.
333 M. Railway in 71/2*11 hrs. (fares as at p. 186). The best train is
the international Limited', starting at 9 a.m. This line skirts the 8t.
Lawrence and Lake OntaiHo for a great part of its course.
Leaving Montreal (Bonaventure Station ; p. 125), the train runs
to the W., passing (2 M.) 8t, Henri (p. 14) and (7 M.) Convent.
At (8 M.) Lachine, where we have a fine view of the C.P.R. bridge
(p. 47) to the left, we pass under the 0. P. R. Farther on we hug
the broad St. Lawrence, The country is flat and fertile. The O.P.R.
runs parallel with our line for some distance. 20*/2 M. 8t. Anne's
(p. 186) ; the village lies mainly to the left. At (241/2 M.) Vau-
dreuU (p. 186) we cross an arm of the Ottawa. At (37 M.) Coteau
Junction the lines to Ottawa (p. 176) and to Valleyfield (p. 16) and
8t, Albans (p. 15) diverge to the right and left. Our line continues
to skirt the St. Lawrence, of which we have fine views to the left.
54 M. Lancaster. At (67 M.) Cornwall (p. 229 ; Rail. Restaurant)
we connect with the 'New York & Ottawa Railway' (p. 182). 81 M.
Farran'8 Point ; 92 M. Morrisburg (p. 229) ; 113 M. Prescott (p. 229),
the starting-point of a ferry to Ogdensburg (p. 229) and the junction
of a line to Ottawa (see p. 182). 126 M. BrockviUe (280 ft ; p. 229),
the junction of a line to Smith's Falls (p. 186) and Ottawa (J. 186).
Just before (129 M.) Lyn a line diverges to the right for (41 M.)
Westport (comp. p. 183). — The line now quits the river for a
time, running through hop-gardens and grain-fields. 146 M. Lans^
downe. Beyond (155 M.) Thousand Islands Junction^ for a short line
to (6 M.) Oarutnoque (p. 228) , we cross a stream ^nd at (169 M.)
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
to Toronto. COBOURG. 38, Route, 189
Bideau we cross the moutli of the Bideau Canal (see p. 183). A
little farther on we see Kingston (p. 227), 2-3 M. to the left, with
its church-spires, martello tower, college, fort, etc. ilQ.'M., Kingston
Junction^ for a short line to (3 M.) Kingston. Farther on , the line
again bends inland. We cross a pretty little river in entering (198 M.)
Najtanee (Canijpbell Ho., $ lV2-2> U.S. Con. Agent), a grain-trading
town with (1901) 3143 inhab., embosomed in trees.
Napadee is the junction of the Bay of Quint4 RaHioay to (9 M.) Seseronto
(Qwen, Deseronto ffo., $ IVz-^i ^- S. Jgent)^ a flour and lumber tradiog town
(3527 inhab. in 1901), at the end of the beautiful *Bay of Quinti^ an arm
of Lake Ontario. Der^eronto is lighted by gas made from the sawdust of
ita lumber-mills. Near it is the attractive Forester^t Iskmd Park (hotel).
218 M. ShannonvUle. — 220 M. BellBvme (Quinti, $ 2-3} Anglo-
American^ $ 1-1 V2; U. S. Consnl, Mr. M. J. Hendrich), a bnsy in-
dustrial city of (1901) 9117 inhab., on the N. shore of the Bay of
Quints, of which we have views to the left farther on. It is the junction
of a line running to the N. to Ivanhoe (p. 187), Madoc (27 M.), etc.
Albert College here has 326 students. The favourite summer-resort of
the Bellevillians is at Missiasaga Point (Hotel, $1-2), on the other side
of the bay. — 232 M. Trenton (Aberdeen^ 8t. Lawrence, $172-2;
Gilbert Ho.^ $ lV2)j »* t^c mouth of the wide and picturesque Trent^
the outlet of Bice Lake (p. 187), and near the W. end of the Bay of
Quints, is a town of (1901) 4217 inhab. and the junction of the
Central Ontario Railway, running to the left to (30 M.) Fieton and
to the right to (74 M.) Coe Hill and other mining-stations.
Kcton (Royaly Tecunueh, Olobe^ $ IV2 i Oerm. Cons. Agent), a town of
(1901) 3698 inhab., lies at the W. end of the Frince Edward Fmimula,
which encloses the Bay of Quints (see above). The picturesque and varied
shores of the peninsula may be visited by steamer. In the highest part
of it is the '^Lake of tJie Mountain, with no known affluent. At Big Sandy
Bay (Glen Island Ho., $ IV2) are curious white Sand Banks, which are
encroaching on the land at the rate of 150 ft. every winter. *The active
agent in the movement appears to be the drifting snow which entangles
the sand and carries it forward. On the hottest day snow may be found a
short distance down* (Picturesque Canada).
Trenton is also the starting-point of the so-called Trenton Waterway,
a mainly natural water-route extending to (2(X) M.) Midland (p. 199), on
Georgian Bay.
Farther on, the line skirts the N. shore of Lake Ontario (p. 208).
241 M. Brighton; 249 M. Colbome. — 264 M. Cobonrg (Arlington,
Cedamere, Baltimore, Columbian, $2-272; Dunham Ho,, $1V2;
Bail, Beataurant), a manufacturing town of (1901) 4239 inhab., with
car-works and breweries, was formerly the seat of Victoria College
(p. 196). A short line runs to the N. to (1472 M.) Harwood, on
Bice Lake (p. 187). — 270 M. Port Hope (Queen, $2,81, Lawrence
HaU, $172-272; U. S. Consul, Mr. H.P.DiZi; is a brisk little lumber-
port T^ith (1901) 4188 inhab. and various industries. A branch-
line runs hence to Peterborough (p. 187), Lindsay (p. 188), and
other points ; and a steamer plies daily to Bochester (see Baedeker^s
United States'), — 286 M. Newcastle; 290 M. BowmanvilU (2731 in-
hab. in 1901) J 299 M. Oshawa (Queen, Commercial, $ IJ/a:^^^'^
Digitized by > ^
190 Route 39. TORONTO.
nhab. in 1901). — 303 M. Whitby (2110 inhab. in 1901) is the
unction of a line to (IOV2 M.) Myrtle (p. 188) and r33 M.) Manilla
(for Lindsay and HaWmrton; comp. p. 188). — 309 M. Pickering^
on a small lake; 316 M. Port Union. — 324 M. Scarboro Junction,
Near Scarboro Junction are Scarboro E«ighU or Bluffi^ consisting of
picturesque clay difls descending to Lake Ontario^ and offering a most
interesting instance of inter - glacial aetion. They lie about 1/2 M. firom
the terminus of the Scarboro branch of the Toronto and Tork Badial Rail-
way (p. 191) and are frequently visited from Toronto. The Toronto Hunt
Club (p. 191) is situated here.
Fbou Soabbobo Junction to Cobogonk, 77 M., Orand Trunk Raiiwap in
4Vs hrs. — 5M. Agineourt; 13 M. Markham. At (20 M.) StouffvWe JfmcUon
the line to Jackson s Point (see below) diyerges to the left. 32 M. Uxhridge;
42 M. BlackwaUr Junction, At (55 M.) Lomeville Junction we cross the line
running from Lindsay to Lake Simeoe and Midland (comp. pp. 187, 188).
60 M. JBldon; 66 M. Kirkfitid. — 77 M. Coboconk^ on Balsam Lake (comp. p. 187).
Fbom Soabbobo Junction to Jackson^s Point, 47 M., Orand Trunk
Railway in 2 hrs. (fare $2.20). At (20 M.) Siouffville Junction our train diyerges
to the left from the line described above. 321/2 M. Mount Albert; 45 M.
Sutton. — 47 M. Jackson s Point (Lakeyiew Hotel, Pine Plaza Hotel, $ ii/i^,
a pretty little village on the shore of Lake Simeoe, nearly opposite Barrie
(p. 198).
328 M. York; 829 M. OolfOrounds; 331 M. Queen Street East,
within the city- limits of Toronto.
333 M. Torontd, see R. 39.
39. Toronto.
Arriyal. The Union Railway Station (PI. D, 8, 4) lies on the lake-front,
within a stone^s throw of all the leading hotels except the King Edward.
The Steamboat Wharves are at the foot of Yonge St. (PI. E, 4). [A new
and more convenient railway-station, to the E. of the present one, is in con-
templation.] — Hotel Omnibuses (25 c.) and Cabs (see below) meet the trains
and steamers. Baggage may be sent to the hotels by the transfer-agents
or the hotel-porters.
Hotels. *KiNO Edwabd (PI. h \ E, 8), at the comer of King St. and
Victoria St., a large and elaborately fltted-up house, with 400 rooms, from
$3V2t R> from $11/2; *Qubbn^8 (PI. a; D, 8), pleasantly and quietly situated
in Front St., $3-5^ Rossin House (PI. b-, D, 3), York St., well spoken of,
$2V«-4-, •Ablington (PI. e; D, 8), cor. of King St. and John St., $2-3?
Palmbb House (PI. c$ D, 8), cor. of York St. and King St., $2-2Vs; Walksb
House (PI. d; D,8), cor. of York St. and Front St., $2-8; Iboquoi8(P1. g;
D, 8), cor. of King St. and York St., B. from 50 e. ; Elliott House (PL f ;
D, 8), cor. of Church St. and Shuter St. ; Lucas Tbmpbbance Hotel, to the
N.W. of the City Hall. Those who wish for quiet should ask for rooms
away from the street-car lines.
Bettaurants. *McConkey, 27 ELing St. West; Grill Room of ihe King
Edward Hotel (see a,hove)\ St. CharUs Hotel Grill Room, N.W. cor. of Yonge
and Melinda Sts., opposite Traders' Bank (p. 193); NatmiUCs Lunch Rooms,
64 A W King St. W., 152 <fe 781 Yonge St., 68 Jarvis St., 470 Spadina
Aye., 1406 Queen St. W., etc.; Hew Carlton Restaurant, D. 25c.*, Railway
Restaurant.
Oaba. For cab-hiring purposes the city if divided into three districts,
the first bounded by Bathurst, Bloor, and Sumach Sts.. the second by Dh^-
ferin St., the H. City Limits, and Pape Avenue, the third by the Jfunieipal
Limits. (Jab within Division I, with one or two horses, 50c. for 1-2 pars.,
each pert, addit. 25 c.; within Div. n, 75 c. and 25 c; within Diy. Ill,
$ 1, 25 c. Per hour, with two horses, 1-4 pers. $ 1.25 X$ 1 for each addit.
Digitized by CjOOQ IC
iland. Tb€ streete
Digitized by VjOOQIC
yGoogk
TORONTO. 39. Route, 191
lir.)t with one horse, 1-3 pers., $1 (75 c. for each addit. hr.). Fares fifty
per cent hieher from midnight to 6 a.m. One trunk and small articles
carried inside free, each extra trunk 5 c.
Tramways (electric) traverse the principal streets and reach various
suburban points (fare 5c.; liberal system of transfers), carrying at least
100,000 passengers daily. The Belt Line^ running in both directions viit
King, Sherborne, Bloor, and Spadina Sts., affords a good general view of the
city. It is better to take the car mnning to the E. on King St. — Sleetric
Bailwaya run from the termini of the tramways to Mimic and Long Branch
(ev. Va hr.), We$ton^ Lambton^ Newnarhet^ Munro A Victoria ParJcsy Port Oredil
(p. 209), etc.
Observation Coaches, calling at all the chief hotels, drive round the
chief points of interest in and near the city twice daily (ca. 9.80 a.m. &
2.S0p.m.s 8 hrs.; fare $ 1). — Small Steamers ply at frequent intervals
'to the Island (p. 197), the Humiber (p. 198), Long Branch and Lome Parh^
Victoria Park (p. 197), BowmanviUe^ etc. Larger boats ply to Hamilton
(p. 209), to Jfiagarct-on-the-Lakt and Leidaton (comp. p. 209), to Port Dot-
hwtie (p. 211) and 8t. Catharinit (p. 211), etc. The steamer for Kingston,
the 8t. Laurmct^ and Montreal (see B. 4*0 leaves Geddes Wharf (PL E, 4)
every afternoon about S.SOp.m.
Places of Amusement. [A large new theatre is planned.] Princess Theatre
(PL 1 5 D, 8), 167 King St. W. ; Grand Opera House (PL E, 8), Majettie (PL D,
£, 8), Adelaide St. W. ^ Shea's, 93 Yonge St. •, Massey Music Hall (PI. E, 2, 3),
see p. 194. — Good Concerts are given by the Mendelssohn Choir , the National
Chorus^ the Toronto Mate Chorus CM>y and other societies. — Lacroue
Oroundsy at Bosedale (p. 197); Baseball Grounds (PL G, 8), Eraser Ave.,
cor. of King St. E. ; Racecourse at Woodbine Park, to the E. of the city ;
Cricket Ground^ on University Lawn ; Go\f Links at Lambton (see above ; open
to guests of ^ng Edward Hotel), East Toronto, Bosedale, and other ad-
jacent points. — Curling is another favourite pport (numerous rinks). —
Rowing and Bailing are carried on with great ardour in Toronto Bay and the
Humber. Among the chief clubs are the Royal Canadian Yacht Club, the
Toronto, Don, and Argonaut Rowing Clubs, and the Canoe Chtb. In winter
Ice Boating is practised. — Horse Show at the Armouries (PL D, 2, 8; p. 195;
usually about Easter). — Bands play in the public parks and gardens
daring summer.
Clubs. National (PL J>, 8), 98 Bay St. ; Toronto (PL D, 3), 107 WeUington
St. W.; Albany (PL 5; E, 3), 91 King St. E.; DeuUeher Verein (German),
cor. of Church A Wood Sts. ; Lieder-Kr ant-Halle ^German), 267 Richmond
St. W., with summer-premises on the Island (p. 197); Toronto Hunt Club,
at Scarboro Heights (p. 190), Kingston Road, with charming grounds.
Art Exhibitions at the rooms of the Ontario Society of Artists (PL 7;
D, 3), 166 King St. W., and at the Normal School (p. 194).
newspapers. Homing : Globe (Lib. ; 1 c), Mail A Empire (Cons. ; 1 c),
World (Cons. ; 1 c). Evening; Globe (1 c), Mail A Empire (1 c), News (Ind. ;
1 c). Star (Lib. ; 1 c), Tdegram (Lab. ; 1 c).
Post Office (PL E, 3), Adelaide Street B. (open 7-7). Temporary office
at cor. of Front St. and Lome St., opposite the Queen's Hotel (comp. p. 194)
Consuls. United States, Mr, R. S, Chilton Jr., 26 Adelaide St. W. ; Ger-
man, Mr. Samuel Nordheimer, 15 King St. E. ; Frendi Consular Agent, Mr.
Augusts Bolts, 47 Colbome St.
Toronto (260-350 ft above sea-level), the *Oueen City', the capital
of Ontario and the second city of Canada, lies on the N. shore of
Lake Ontario, in a large and sheltered bay between the rivers Don
and Humber, The bay is formed by a narrow sandy Island (see p. 197),
about 6 M. long, enclosing a fine harbonr 31/2 s<l. M. in extent, with
a narrow entrance at the W. end and a cut on the S.E. side. The city
extends along the lake-front for about 8 M., and its site slopes grad-
ually upwards to an ancient lake-margin 3 M. inland. T^e street
Digitized bydOOQlC
192 Route 39. TORONTO. History.
(some of them poorly paved) are laid out at right angles to each
other, and the buildings are generally substantial and often hand-
some. Yonge Street, running to the N. from the water's edge and
extending under the same name to Lake Simcoe (p. 198), 40 M.
distant, divides the city into an E. and W. half. The chief business-
streets are Yonge St., King Street, Wellington Street, and Front Street,
the last three running parallel with the lake-front. The fashionable
residence-streets are St, George Street, to the W., and Ja/rvis Street
(pretty lawns and gardens) and Sherboume Street, to the E. Rose-
dale (p. 197) is rapidly becoming a fine residential quarter, and
Bloor Street contains some handsome dwellings. In 1901 Toronto
contained 208,040 inhab., mainly Protestants of British stock. The
population is now estimated at 260,000.
History. The name Toronto (^place of meeting*) is first heard of as
applied in the 17th cent, to the cotintry of the Horons, between Lake
Simcoe and Lake Huron, but was afterwards naturally enough transferred
to Fort BouilU, a small French trading-post erected about 1749 at the
starting-point of the river and portage route from Lake Ontario to the
Toronto district (site marked by a pillar in the Exhibition Grounds, PI.
A, 4). The present city was founded by the United Empire Loyalists,
under Major-Oeneral Simeoe, in 1798, under the name of York, and became
the capital of the new province of Upper Canada the following year. The
settlement grew at first but slowly, and contained only 900 inhab. at the
outbreak of the war of 1812, in which it was twice sacked by the Amer-
icans. After this, however, its growth was more rapid and in 1834, when
it received its city charter and changed its name to Toronto, the popula-
tion of York was fully 10,000. William Lyon ifackentie, leader of the un-
fortunate rebellion of 1837 (comp. p. 184), was one of the early mayors of
Toronto. The later increase of Toronto has been phenomenal even among
American cities. From 44,821 in 1861 the population rose to ^6,416 in
1881, while in the next decade it was more than doubled. In April, 1904,
the wholesale district of Toronto (PI. D, E, 3) was visited by a destructive
fire, which spread over 14 acres and consumed property to the value
of $ 10,000,000. It is hoped to erect a new railway-station and other public
buildings on the site thus cleared, between the present Union Station
and the Custom House ; and other contemplated city improvements include
the construction of boulevards running diagonally to the K.E. and N.W.
suburbs. — Toronto is as predominancy British and Protestant as Quebec
(p. 145) is French and Boman Catholic, each city forming an epitome of the
province of which it is the capital. It is the centre of Ontario, commer-
cially, religiously, and educationally as well as politically, and has sub-
stantial grounds for the claim it sometimes makes of being the *Boston
of Canada''. Toronto contains about one church for every 1000 inhab.,
and Sunday is very strictly observed. — Comp. 'Toronto of Old*, by
Dr, Bcadding, and ^Landmarks of Toronto", by /. R, Robertson.
Trade and Indnatry. The position of Toronto as the outlet of the
Canadian share of the Great Xorth-West makes it of high commercial
importance. The chief articles of export are timber, horses, wool, bacon,
grain, clover and grass seeds, and various manufactured articles. The
value of its imports in 1905 was $ 53,194,065. Its manufactures include
foundry-products, stoves, leather, flour, whiskey, and beer, and have a total
annual value of about $70,000,000. The agricultural machinery works of
Mcuuy it Harris and the distillery of Oooderham A Wortt are widely knovm.
The assessed value of taxable property in Toronto is about $ 160,000,000.
Ontario, the province of which Toronto is the capital , is the richest
and most populous in the Dominion, containing (1901) 2,182,987 inhab.
or about 40 per cent of the total population of Canada. In size it ranks
next to Quebec, with an extreme length of fully lOpO^ H.. aibreadth of
Digitized by VjOOQIC
8t. Jama's. TORONTO. 39.nou%t, 193
700 M., and an area of 222,000 sq. M. It is bounded by Hudson Bay on
the K., K.B. Territory and Quebec on the K.E. and E., the St. Lawrence
and the Great Lakes on the S.E., S., and S.W., and Manitoba and Keewatin
on the W. and K.W. Its surface and soil display a great variety of con-
figuration and quality, but a large proportion of the province is suitable
for agriculture, which forms the chief occupation of its people. The
richest, most thickly peopled, and most highly cultivated part of the pro-
vince is the so-called Peninsula of Ontario (p. 205). The chief crops are
wheat, barley, oats, Indian corn, turnips, and potatoes, while fruit-grow-
ing, stock-raising, and dairy-farming are also successfully prosecuted.
The huge and valuable forests make lumbering one of the chief industries.
The minerals include gold (p. 243), silver, copper, iron, nickel (p. 233),
* cobalt (p. 239), gypsum, phosphates, marble, salt, natural gas, and petro-
leum. The long coast-line of the Great Lakes (ca. 1700 M.) affords excellent
shipping facilities and has fostered an important trade. Many manufactures
are also carried on, and the lake-fisheries are by no means inconsiderable.
— Ontario was largely founded by the United Empire Loyalists after
1783 (comp. p. 192). It became a separate province, under the name of
Upper Canada, in 1791 \ was re-united with Quebec in 1841 ^ and once more
became an independent province, with its present name, in 1867.
Taking the Union Station (PI. D, 3) as the starting-point for oni tour
of the city, we may first follow Fbont Stkbbt (PI. C. D, 3), with its sub-
stantial warehouses and the Queen's Hotel (p. 190), to the E. to its'
junction with Yonoe Street, where stand the Bank of Montreal
(PI. E, 3) and the Board of Trade (PI. 4; E, 3), both to the left. To
the right rises the Custom House (PI. E, 3), in an Italian style, and
behind this, at the lake-end of Yonge St., is the Customs Warehouse,
Following Yonge St. to -the left, we cross Wellington St., with
the Bank of British North America (right) , pass the Office of the Qlobe
(PI. E, 3), one of the chief organs of Canadian Liberalism (1.; at the
corner of Mellnda St.), and the ten-story building of the Traders
Bank of Canada (r. j PI. 6, E 3), said to be the highest business-edifice
in the British Empire, and soon reach King Stbebt (PI. A-G, B),
the crossing of these two busy thoroughfares forming the practical
centre of the city.
From Yonge St., a little to the K. of King St., the Yonge St. Arcade
(PI. £, 3) runs through to Victoria St. — In Temperance St., leading to
the left from Yonge St., is the Ontario Veterinary College (PI. 3 *, E, 3), largely
attended by students from all parts of Canada and the United States.
In the section of King St. between Yonge St. and Bay St. (to the left
or W. of Yonge St.) are the Manning Arcade, the handsome building of the
Canada Life Assurance Co (PI. 8 ; D, 3), the Bank of Commerce (at the corner
of Jordan St.), and the Bank of Nova Scotia (No. 39), by Darling, with a
beautifully proportioned hall. At the corner of King St. and Bay St. stands
the Office of the Toronto Mail & Empire (PI. D, 3).
We now follow King St. to the right (E.), passing, at the corner
of Victoria St., the imposing Kino Edwabd Hotel (PI. h, E 3;
p. 190), with interesting frescoes by Mr. William Dodge in its hall.
Farther on stands St. James's Cathedral (PI. £, 3), a large Early
English building , with some monuments and good stained - glass
windows (Sun. services at 11 and 7; Wed., 8 p.m.). The spire,
316 ft. high, contains a chime of bells and an elaborate clock (view ;
adm. to tower 10 c). A few yards beyond the cathedral is the
Bt. Lawrence Hall or Market (PI E, 3), recently extend6^QQ[^
Babdbkeb's Canada. 3rd Edit. 13
194 Route 39. TORONTO. 8t. MiehaeVs
From St James's Cathedral we follow Ohuboh Street (PL E
1-3) to the N., Glossing Adelaide St. E., at the corner of whichv
(right) is the excellent Free Public Library (Pi. E, 3), with 120,000
vols, and a good reference-department. Connected with it are four
Branch Libraries. — At the corner to the left stands the Post Office
(PI. E, 3), burned down in 1906, but at once rebuilt.
In Richmond St., between Tonge St. and Church 8t., is the huge red
Cot\federaHon Life Attodation Building.
In the square enclosed by Church, Queen, Bond, and Shuter Sts.
stands the Metropolitan Methodist Chnrch (PI. E, 3), with its.
square tower and numerous pinnacles. It contains a great organ and
an echo organ, having together 133 stops. On the N. side of the
square are the new stone Parsonage of this church and the Methodist
Deaconesses' Home. On the opposite side of Shuter St. is the R. 0.
Cathedral of St. Michael (PI. E, 2), with its graceful spire, stained-
glass windows, and interior polychrome decoration.
To the W. , at the comer of Shuter and Victoria Sta. , is the large
ifoMtev Music Hall (PI. E, 2, 3). for which Mr. H. A. Massey presented the
city with $100,000.
Farther out, Church St. passes the large *Normal and Model Schools
(PI. £, 2), which stand in pleasant grounds and include a library, an edu-
cational museum, a lecture-hal], an important archeeological collection
(transferred from the Canadian Institute, p. 195), and a gallery of art, with
copies of the old masters, sculptures, engravings, models of Egyptian
and Assyrian antiquities, views illustrating Canadian history, etc. (open,
free, 9-6; catalogue 25 c.). They are attended by about 800 students. In
front is a bronze Statite of Dr. Syerson (1803-82), the founder of the edu-
cational system of Ontario, by H. MacCarthy. The buildings also contain
the offices of the Provincial D^artmeni of Education.
In the meantime we follow Queen Stkbbt (PI. A-G,3) towards the
W. To the right, facing the end of Bay St., stands the ♦City Hall and
Conxt House (PI. D, E, 3), a large pile in a modern Romanesque
('Richardsonian') style, built by Lennox in 1891-99, with a lofty
tower (300 ft. high ; view) and huge clock. The building cost
$ 5,000,000 and contains some interesting frescoes (by O. A. Beid")
and portraits (W. L.Mackenzie, p. 192, etc.). The stained- glass
window opposite the Queen St. entrance is d308q. ft. in area and
represents the union of commerce and industry.
A little to the S., at the comer of Bay St. and Richmond St., is the
posing Ten^le Building (PI. D, E, 8), finished in 1896 and containing the
Canadian headquarters of the Independent Order of Foresters. Oron-
hyatekha, the Supreme Chief Banger, is a Mohawk Indian. The Order
numbers about 800,000 members and has courts in all parts of the British
Empire and in various foreign countries.
Farther on in Queen St., on the same side as the City Hall, between
Chestnut St. and College Ave., is *Osgoode Hall (PL D, 3), the seat
of the Superior Courts of Ontario, a building in the Italian Renaissance
style, erected at a cost of $300,000 and named after the first Chief
Justice of Upper Canada. It contains an extensive legal library (25,000
vols.) and some good portraits and is the seat of the Law School.
•UiovERsiTT Avenue (PI. D, 2, 3), with its double row of elms
and chestnuts, leads hence to (2/g M.) ♦Queen's Park (PI. D, 1), a
University, TORONTO. 39. Route, 195
wooded tract 40 acres in extent, originally belonging to the Toronto
University but now reserved as a public pleasure-ground. The large
red buildings to the right, in University Avenue, are the Armouries
(PI. D, 2), erected by the Dominion Government for the Toronto
militia. At the S. end of the park stand the massive buildings
of the Provincial Parliament (PI. D, 1), erected in 1888-92 at a
cost of about $ 1,300,000. They are in a *neo-Grecian' style, from
the design of Waite of Buffalo, and, but for the roofs, make a digni-
fied and imposing appearance. The interior is admirably fitted, up.
Admission to the House of Assembly, comp. p. 153. Near the Par-
liament Building are a Monument (PI. 35) to the memory of Canadian
volunteers who fell in the Fenian raid of 1866 j a Statue of Queen
Fictoria (PI. 32), byRaggi, with panels by Alward and Banks; statues
of the Hon. George Brown (PI. 33; 1818-80; sculptor, Birch), a
distinguished Canadian statesman and founder of the ^Toronto Globe'
(p. 193), of General Simcoe (PL 31; p. 192), by Alward, of Sir
Oliver Mowat (PI. 34; by Alward), and of Sir John Macdonald
(PI. 29; p. 133), by Hamilton MacCarthy; and a Monument (PI. 30 ;
by Alward), commemorating the North West Rebellion of 1885. —
To the W. of the park are the extensive buildings of the *Univer8ity
cf Toronto (PI. D, 1), forming, perhaps, the finest ensemble of
college architecture in the W. hemisphere. The main building, or
University College (PI. 14), in the Norman style, with a massive central
tower, was finished in 1869, at a cost of $ 500,000 (architects,
Cumberland ^ Storm) ^ but was unfortunately burned down in 1890.
Since then, however, it has been rebuilt in substantially the same
form as before (architect, DicJi). Within the University Grounds are
the new Convocation Hall {"PL 19; an imposing circular building
with a fine facade), the new Medical Building (PI. 16), the Engineer-
ing Building (PI. 21), the new Museum {^l. 24; good Egyptian,
Cretan, and Palestine collections), ihQ School of Practical Science
(PI. 12), the Library (Pi.. 15 ; portraits of Goldwin Smith, Sir Daniel
Wilson, Edward Blake, etc.), the ChemUtry Building (PI. 22), the
Biological Building (PI. 17), and a weU-equipped Gymnasium (PI. 13).
— Facing the University Grounds is the Canadian Institute
(PI. 23; D, 2), with a valuable scientific library (8000 vols.) and
reading-room.
The Main Entrance to University College, with a handsome portico,
is in the tower, on the S. The E. and W. wings are entered from a
spacious vestibule, with fine stone pillars and carving. On the second
floor are two lofty and well-proportioned HalUy with noteworthy wood-
carving. The Senate Chancer, in the E. wing, is approached by a stair-
case with a dragon carved in wood. The W. wing contains Laboratories,
etc. The 'View from the Tower (key kept by janitor ^ gratuity) includes
the whole city and its environs. — A fine Campus (Fl. D, 1) has been laid
out to the X. of the main building.
The University fof Toronto, together with University College, now
attended by 2200 students, offers a complete course of training in arts,
medicine, and engineering. Affiliated with it, but not forming part of the
State institution, are the Presbyterian Knox College (PI. C, 1), in Spadina
13*
196 Route 39. TORONTO. Trinity College.
Aye. (probably to be removed to Queen^s Park) ^ the Episcopalian Wpeliffe
College (PLll) D, 1), behind the University; the Roman Catholic St. MiehaeVs
College (PI. D, 1), in St. Joseph St.*, the Royal College of Dental Burgeon*
(PI. 28i D, 2), Oollege St.; the OntaiHo College of PharmaeVi Gerrard St.;
the Conservatory of Mueic (PI. 27, D 2; 1400 papils), CoUege St,, cor. of
University Ave.; the Toronto College of Mttticy Pembroke St.; and Ewon
Episcopalian College^ London (Ont.).
Victoria University (PL 14; D, 1), in the N. part of Queen's Park, is an
Important Methodist institution, federated with the University of Toronto
(400 students). — HcMaster University (PL 10; D, 1), a brick and stone
building to the N. of the park, facing Bloor St, is an independent Baptist
institution, with faculties of arts and theology (2(X) students). KearMcMaster
University is the Dominion Oovernmental Observatory (PL 9; D, 1), recently
removed to this site from the University grounds.
Queen's Hall (PL 25; D, 2) and Annesley Hall (PL D, 1) are dormitories
for girl-students.
At the N.W. comer of St. George St. and College St. stands the new
Oamegie Library (PL C, 2), for which Mr. Andrew Carnegie has given $ 850,(XX).
Making a fresh start from the Union Station (Pl.D, 3) and ascend-
ing SiMCOB Stbbbt (pi. D, 2, 3), we see to the left, beyond Welling-
ton St., Oovemment House (PI. D, 3), the residence of the Liente-
nant-Govemor, situated in pleasant •Grounds (admission on written
application to tiie A. D. 0. in waiting). To the right, at the corner
of King St., is the Presbyterian * Church of St. Andrew (PL D, 3),
in a modified Norman style.
On reaching Qxtbbn Stebbt Wbst (PI. 0, 3), we may turn to the
left and in a few minutes come to John Street, which leads to the
right to The Orange (PI. D, 2), an interesting old Colonial mansion
occupied by Professor Ooldwin Smith. The Grange was closely asso-
ciated with the famous 'Family Compact' (p. xxiv). — About li/4 M.
farther along Queen St., to the right, is Trinity College (Tl. B, 3),
an Anglican university founded by Bishop Strachan in 1851, when
University College was secularized, with faculties of arts, law, and
theology (150 students). The building is in the late-Gothic style
and stands in pleasant grounds. Trinity College was federated with
the University of Toronto in 1903. — A little farther on, to the left,
is the huge Provincial Lunatic Asylum (PI. A, 3), with 40 acres
of ground and accommodation for 700 patients.
Queen St. ends, I1/2 M. farther on, at High Park, a well- wooded
tract of 350 acres, much frequented by holiday-makers. The mauso-
leum of the donor, Mr. J. O. Howard (d. 1890) , is enclosed by
part of the old railing that surrounded St. Paul's Cathedral, London.
The park is bounded on the W. by the Humber Biver (p. 191), ftom
the mouth of which a ferry-steamer plies to Yonge St. Wharf (¥1. E, 4).
At no great distance from the Lunatic Asylum are the Mercer Rtfortn-
atory (PL A, 8) , the Central Prison (PL A. 8), and the Exhibition Grounds
(PL A, 4). The last are the scene of an important National Exhibition or
*-Fair\ sometimes attended by 500,000 visitors. Varions substantial build-
ings have been erected for this exhibition, and the grounds have recently
been extended by the inclusion of part of the adjacent Oovemment prop-
erty. By the water's edge, to the S.E. of the Exhibition Park, is the New
Fort (PL A, 4). connected by a road with the Old Fort (PL B, 4), nearer
the centre of the town. In the capture of the latter in 1818 the American
leader, Oen. Pike, was kiUed. DigitzedbyGoOglc
Tha Island. TORONTO. .39. Route. 197
The Horticaltaral or Allan Gardens (Pi. E, 2; open till dark)
lie to the N.E. of the Normal School (p. 194). To the W. is the
Toronto Collegiate Institute (PI. £, 2) , the oldest secondary school
in Ontario.
[There are two other schools of similar rank in the city, one in Har-
bord St. and one in Jameson Ave. Other important schools are the Tech-
nical High School (PI. 26; D, 2); St. Andrew^* College^ at Rosedale ; St. Mar-
gareVe, in Spadina Ave. •, and HavergcU flail, in Jarvis St. (the last two
for girls).]
Among the other places of greater or less interest in Toronto
may be mentioned the imposing buildings of the Upper Canada
College (beyond PI. D, 1), a high-class school for boys, with about
300 pupils (♦View from the tower) ; the General HospUal (PI. F, 2^ ;
the Home for Incurables (beyond PL A, 3 ; good view from tower^ ;
the St. Alban^s Cathedral (beyond PI. G, 1 ; chancel only completed) ;
Bond Street Congregational Church; Jarvis Street Baptist Church;
and the Church of Our Lady of LourdeSy at the comer of Sherbourne
and Earl Sts. (PI. E, 1).
The ^Island (PI. C-F, 6, 6), which shelters the harbour (see p. 191), is the
Margate or Coney Island of Toronto and is frequented in summer by large
crowds (ferries from Church St.. Yonge St., York St., and Brock St., plying
to Hanlan^t Pointy at the W. ena, and to Island Park^ in the centre ; return
fare 10 c.)' Like Coney Island, it is nothing but a large sand-bank, fringed
with flimsy summer-cottages and studded with merry-go-rounds, band-
stands, dancing-pavilions, and the other paraphernalia of a Cockney Par-
adise. At the S.W. comer are a Lighthouit and a GJiHdren*s Summer Hos-
pital (PI. C, 7), and at the £. end are some attractive cottages. In the
middle is one of the club-houses of the Ropal Canadian Yacht Club. Tjie
hotel at Hanlan^s Point was once owned by Edward Hanlan, at one time
champion sculler of the world. At night the el^ectric lights of the Island
produce a very picturesque effect as seen from Toronto.
Perhaps the pleasantest short drive from Toronto is that across the
bridge over the * Ravine of the Don {Riverdale Park; PI. G, 1, 2), on the
N.B. side of the town, to the pretty suburb of Rosedale (PI. F, G, 1), where a
lacrosse match is generally going on on Sat. in summer (comp. p. 191). In
the vicinity are three picturesque Cemeteries. — Excursions may also be
made by steamer or electric railway to Lome Park (Hotel Louise, $ 1V«)
and Long Branch (Long Branch Hotel, $ lVs-2), lying beyond the Humber
(p. 191), and to Victoria Park, Munro Park, and Scarboro Heights to the
E. (comp. p. 190), Reservoir Park (to the N.), and Grimsby Park (Lake View
Ho., $ lVf2).
From Toronto to Hamilton, Niagara, and Buffalo, see B. 43; to Montreal,
see RR. 38, 47 •, to Detroit, see B. 42 ^ to the Muskoka Lakes, see B. 40.
40. From Toronto to North Bay. Muskoka District.
227 M. Gkand Teunk Railway in 8-13 hrs. (fare $6.85i sleeper $2).
This line affords the main access to the beautiful ^Muskoka Lake District
(see p. 201). Through-carriages run to Muskoka Wharf (p. 200; fare $3.40,
sleeper $1.50, parlor-car 50 c); and return-tickets are issued at reduced
rates to all the principal points on the lakes (to Beaumaris and back
$ 5.75, all round the Muskoka Lakes $ 7.55, etc.). Similar tickets are issued
at Hamilton, London, Niagara, Port Huron, and Detroit.
Toronto, see R. 39. The line luns towards the W. (view of the
Lunatic Asylum to the right and Home for Incurable^ to the left)^
198 Boute 40. ALLANDALE. From Toronto
then turns to the N. and quits the city precincts at (4^2 M.) Daven^
port. To the left is the valley of the Hurriber (p. 191). About 3 M.
beyond (23 M.) King we cross the watershed between Lakes Ontario
and Huron (1000 ft. above sea-level). The Vale of Aurora^ through
which we now pass, recalls an English landscape. 30 M. Aurora
(1590 inhab.) ; 84V2 M. Newmarket (Forsyth Hotel, $ IV4-I V2)» with
(1901) 2125 inhab. and some manufactories. To the right, a little
farther on, are the headwaters of the Holland River^ part of the old
canoe and portage route from Toronto to Lake Slmcoe (comp.
p. 192). — 38 M. Holland Landing, a place of some importance in
the pre-railway days. On the viUage-green (not visible from the
train) is a large anchor, brought from England and destined for
service on the Great Lakes, but stranded here owing to the declara-
tion of peace between Great Britain and the United States (1815). —
We cross the Holland River at (41 M.) Bradford (Hulse Ho., Queen's,
$ 1), frequented by sportsmen and anglers (maskinonge, etc.). — At
(52 M.) Lefroy (Lefroy Hotel, $ 1) we have our first view (right) of
Lake Svmcoe (see below). BoacK'a Point, seen across the narrow S.
arm of the lake (ferry), is a favourite summer and fishing resort.
63 M. AUandale (Bail, Bestaurant), situated at the end of Kem-
penfeldt Bay, the narrow W. arm of Lake Simcoe, is the junction of
lines to (95 M.) Hamilton (p. 209), Penetang (30 M.) , and (52 M.)
Meaford, The monument in the station-garden commemorates Col,
Ckimberland, long General Manager of the N. & N.W. Railway.
The line to Meaford (Paal^s Hotel, $ 1V2-2; 1916 inhab.)« on NottavKuaga
Bay. tbe S. compartment of Qeorgian Bay (p. 223), passes (321/2 M.) Oollix^-
wood (Grand Central, $ 2-21/2*, Qlobe^ $ lVs-2; U. 8. Consul, Mr, R. B. Mother),
another flourishing lake-port, with (1901) 5755 inhab., whence steamert ply
to points of importance on Georgian Bay, Lake Haron, and Lake Superior
(coinp. p. 223 ; fares as from Owen Sound, p. 222).
Penetang or Penetanguithene (580 ft.; *Th6 Penetanguithene, from $2:
Northern, $ l-lVz), with (1901) 2422 inhab., lies at the head of an inlet of
Georgian Bay, 2V3 M. from Midland (p. 199). It wet formerly the Canadian
naval station on the Great Lakes but was dismantled on the convention of
mutual disarmament with the United States. It is now frequented as a
summer-resort and by sportsmen (Indian guides $ 2 per day). The Jesuit
establishment here dates from 1634. Steamers ply hence to Sana Souei (Sans
Souci Hotel, $2-2V2)i Parry Sound (p. 204), and other places in the Parry
Archipelago, etc.
64 M. Barrie (Queen's, $172-2; Barrie Ho., $ 1 1/2; ^- S. Agent),
a flourishing little city and summer-resort, with (1901) 4894 in-
hab., is prettily situated on the N. side of Kempenfeldt Bay. It is
the starting-point of the Lake Simcoe steamer (see below).
«Lake Simcoe (710 ft.) is a beautiful sheet of water, about 80 M. long
and 26 M. wide (if we measure up to the heads of the long narrow bays
on the S. and W.). It affords good boating and fishing and has sevenl
pleasant summer-resorts and private residences on its banks. In this
neighbourhood took place the chief events of the great war between the
Harons and Iroquois, in which the former barely escaped extermination.
A few Hurons still inhabit Serpent Island, near the S. end of the lake.
The Mississaugas later on drove the Iroquois out of the district (see p. 199).
The steamer from Barrie calls at (9 M.) Big Bay Point (Peninsular
?ark Hotel, a favourite summer^resort, $ 2), at the iunction of Kempen-
to North Bay. ORILLIA. dO, Route, 199
feldt Bay with the main hody of the lake, and then proceeds to the N.,
passing through the Narrom^ to Orillia (see below). — Among the chief
resorts on the lake are Sutton West and Jacktoiis Pointy on the S. shore,
reached by direct railway from Toronto (56 M. ; comp. p. 190). — Another
is Morton Park, reached by ferry from Lefroy (p. 198). — Strawberry Island
is reached by steamer from (7 M.) Orillia (see below).
Beyond Barrie the railway skirts the W. shore of Lake Slmcoe
fviews to the right) and reaches (86 M.) Orillia (800 ft. j OrUlia Ho,,
$ 1 72-^ ; ^<^iy ^o.> Victoriay $ 1-1 ^/i ; numerous boarding-houses ;
U. S. Consul, Mr, E. A, Wakefield) , a pleasant little town and
summer-iesort, with (1901) 4907 inhah., situated at the head of Lake
Couchiching (see helow). It contains a small Town Park, in the
grounds of the old Lunatic Asylumy while 2 M. off, on a point
stretching out into the lake, is the attractive Couchiching Beach Park,
There is a fair golf-course, while the lake affords excellent boating.
*Lake Oouchiching (%ake of Many Winds*) , about 14 H. long and
2-3 M. wide, is connected with Lake Simcoe by a narrow strait, crossed by
the railway (see below). Steamers ply regularly from Orillia to WQshago (see
below). The lake affords good fishing for bass, salmon-trout, maskinonge,
and pickerel.
From Orillia a branch line runs to the K.W. to (32 M.) Midland (Glad-
stone Ho , Queen^s, Hewis Ho., $lV2-2; U.S. Agent), a good fishing-resort
(boat 50 c. per day, guide $2), near Penetang, on Georgian Bay (steamers).
It has a good harbour, dominated by two huge elevators. A steam-yacht
runs from Midland to (15 M.) the Victoria House at Honey Harbour,, — In
the other direction this line runs to Beaverton, Lindsay, and Peterborough
(comp. p. 188).
As we leave Orillia, we see the large District Lunatic Asylum
to the right. The train crosses a swing-bridge over the ^Narrows'
connecting Lakes Simcoe and Couchiching, passes (88^/2 M.) Atherley
Junction, and runs along the E. side of Lake Couchiching. Near Ather-
ley are Orchard Point Summer Resort ($1V2"^) ^^^ ^^^ Royal
Narrows Hotel ($ 172-^)' — 92 M. Rama is the reservation of the
last of the Ojibwa Indians, the remnant of the tens of thousands
that once occupied this district. To the E. of (94 M.J Longford lies
Lake St, John, — 99 M. Washago (Northern Ho., $1; steamer, see
above) lies at the foot of Lake Couchiching. The Severn, which here
issues from the lake and drains into Georgian Bay, is famous for its
fishing and for the game on its banks. From (100 M.) Severn the
canoeist can reach Gravenhurst (see below) via the Severn, Sparrow
Lake (Stanton Ho. , $ 1-2), etc. (canoes and guides, ohtained at Rama
or Orillia, $2 a day). — Beyond this point the limestone formations
through which we have heen passing give place to red granite.
Beyond (106 M.) Kilworthy we pass through the Granite Notch and
reach the Muskoka District (see p. 201).
Ill M. Gravenhiirst (^Minnewaska , $2; Fern Olen, $2; many
boarding-houses), a village with (1901) 2146 inhab., prettily situated
at the foot of Muskoka Lake, is the chief gateway to the beautiful
district described at pp. 201-203. All needful camp-supplies can be
obtained here. Gravenhurst has two Sanatoria for consumptive
patients (comp. p. 201). — A short branch-line runs ta> the left to
Digitized byVjOOQlC
200 Route 40. BURK'S FALLS. Muskoka Lake
(1 M.) Mwikoka Wharf (comip, pp. 197, 201). —Beyond Gravenhurst
the North Bay line diverges somewhat from Muskoka Lake, of which
the railway affords no other view, — 1211/2 M. Bracebridge (Queen's^
BritUh Lion, Albion^ Dominion^ $ 1-1 V2)) where we cross the Muskoka
River^ is anoiher gateway to the Muskoka Region, the steamers as-
cending the river to this point (comp. p. 203).
The fine *8outh Falls of the Muskoka, about 3 M. from Bracebridge,
descend 180 ft. in two leaps. — The High FalU^ 4 M. distant, are also
worth visiting. — The North Branch Falls ^ near the town, have been
spoiled by lumber-mills.
Farther on, the river flows to our right. Good roads lead from
(135 M.) Utterson (Commercial, $ 1) to (ca. 5 M.) SkeUton Lake
(Newport Ho., $ 1-1 V2J and Three MUe Lake (p. 202). Mary Lake
(Grunwald, on the W. bank, $1-2; Clyffe Ho., McInnesHo., at
Port Sydney, $ 1) lies 21/2 M. to the E. — Passing the tiny Round
Lake (L), we reach (146 M.) Huntsville (^Kent Ho., $11/2; Vernon
Ho., Dominion Ho., $1), situated between Lake Vernon (1.) and
Fairy Lake (r.), two of the chain of lakes on the Muskoka River.
Small steamers ply twice daily in summer through the Hunttville Lakes
and the adjacent *L€Ute of Bays, all of which abound in speckled trout
and are becoming more and more frequented by sportsmen and summer
visitors. Among the chief resorts are Fairy Lake Hotel ($ 1 V2-2) ; Deerhurst
Hotel ($ IVz-S) and La Portage Hotel ($ IVz-S), on Peninsular Lake; Dtoighl
(Bonvllle, $2; Goldie Ho., $1); Fox Point (Cunnington, $111/2); Por*
Julian i i?ay«otlJe (Manitoba, Richards, etc., $ 1); and Z>or««< (Fairview, Dorset
Ho., $ 1-172)1 the terminus of the steamer-route, 18 M. from Huntsville.
To the E. of Dorset (stage) are Hollow Lake and KimbalPs Lake^ also fre-
quented by sportsmen. Canoeists can make pleasant trips on all these
lakes, the island scenery of which vies with that of many more famous
resorts.
Before reaching (164V2 M.) Novar we cross the N. branch of the
Muskoka. At (161 M.) Scotia Junction we intersect the Grand Trunk
Railway from Ottawa to Parry Sound (see p. 204). In approaching
(16672 ^0 Katrine, another pleasant centre, we cross the 8. Magane^
tawan River. — 171 M. Burk's Falls (^Burk Ho., $2; Clifton Ho.,
$ 1-1^/2), a large village on the N. bank of the Maganetawan, a little
way below the junction of its N. and S. branches, is the starting-
point of the interesting trip down the Maganetawan, which sportsmen
will find especially remunerative.
Two steamers descend the Maganetawan daily to (15 M.) Maffandttwan
(Klondike, $ 1), on Lake Ceeebe (iGbO ft. ; pron. 'Seseeb^; Cecebe Ho., 3 !)>
and to Port Huron (hotel) and (40 M.) Ahmie Harbour (Gliffbourne Ho., $ 1),
on Lake Ahmie (Forest Ifook, $lVs-2; return - ticket from Toronto to
this point $8.60). The canoeist may go on (with guide; numerous port-
ages) all the way to Port Byng, 65 If. farther on, on Georgian Bay, or ho
may explore the various affluents and ramifications of Uie Maganetawan.
The scenery is picturesque, and the opportunities for fishing and shooting
(deer, etc.) are excellent. The canoeist should, of course, be prepared
to camp out at night, though he may occasionally find quarters in a farm-
house. From Byng Inlet steamers ply to Parry Sound, Penetang (p. 198), etc.
Our line continues to run towards th« N. 183 M. Suniridge
(1115 ft. ; Grand Central, $ 1), on 8t(yny Lake (r.). Beyond (188 M.)
Bou^h River (1180 ft; Mecunoma, Queen's, $ 1), th^ highest point
Digitized by dOOQ IC
Region. BEAUMARIS. 40. Route. 201
on the railway , we cross that stream, which, in spite of its name,
0OWS toward the N. to Lake Nipissing. 199 1/2 M. Trout Creek, 13 M.
from the N.W. corner of Algonquin Park (p. 204) ; 207 M. Powassanf
219 M. Callander (White Ho., Pacific Hotel, $1-1V2), on ^^^ S.E.
bay of Lake NipUsing (p. 233), with good fishing and duck-shooting.
At (223 M.) Nipissing Junction we join the C.P.R. (R. 48).
227 M. North Bay, see p. 233,
The so-called *Mnskoka Lake Begion, in the highlands of On-
tario, occupies, in its widest sense, an area of about 10,000 sq. M.,
between Georgian Bay (Lake Huron) on the W., Lake Nipissing on
the N., and Lake Simcoe on the S., with a somewhat indefinite
boundary-line on the E. Within this district, which has a mean
altitude above the sea of about 800 ft. (200 ft. above Lake Huron),
there are, perhaps, 800-1000 lakes and ponds, connected by in-
numerable streams. The Muskoka District proper includes the three
connected lakes described below: Muskoka, Rosseau, and Joseph,
The scenery of Lakes Muskoka, Bosseau, and Joseph is full of variety
and charm, and the air is pure and bracing. Immunity from hay-fever
is alleged to be unfailing. About 400 islets are scattered throughout
the three lakes. Excellent fishing for bass, pickerel, maskinonge, and
salmon-trout is ei^oyed in the lakes themselves or in adjacent waters,
while the forests on their hanks contain deer, grouse, and many other
kinds of game (game-laws, see p. Ixi). The facilities for boating, canoe-
ing, and bathing are ample. Numerous small hotels and boarding-houses
afford fair accommodation at moderate prices (see p. 202), and there is
now at least one first-class modern hotel. The hotels are often crowded
in summer, so that it is advisable to secure rooms in advance. The
services of a good guide for fishing or sporting expeditions cost about
$ 2 a day ; a man or boy to row may be obtained for $ 1-1 Vs- Steamers
ply regularly in summer from Mmkoia Wharf (p. 200) to the ends of Lakes
Bosseau and Joseph, calling at intermediate points; another runs from
Braedfridge to Bala (p. 203). Only the regular landings are mentioned at
pp. 202, 208.
L Fbom Muskoka Whabp to Rossbau, at the head of Lake
Rosseau, 33 M., Steamer in 48/4 hrs. (fare $1 ; D. 40 c.). — Mus-
koka Wharf (ip. 200) lies at the end of the narrow S. bay of ♦Mus-
koka Lake (800 ft), the southernmost and largest (20 M. long,
2-8 M. vfide) of the three lakes. The steamer starts at present at
about 2 p.m., on the arrival of the express from Toronto (comp.
p. 197). To the right, before we leave the bay, is a large Sanatorium
for Consumptives. On entering the lake proper the steamer steers
along its E. side, passing between two large islands and the mouth
of the Muskoka River (p. 200). Numerous summer cottages and
camps sprinkle both mainland and islands.
13 M. (r.) Beaumaris (Hotel, $2V2-3V2), on Tondem Island,
separated from the mainland by a narrow channel. Opposite , on
the mainland, at Milford Bay, is MUford Bay House ($lV2-2)'
The steamer now steers into Indian River, connecting Lake Muskoka
with Lake Rosseau. On the left lies (21 M.) Fort Carling (Stratton
Ho,, Port Carling Ho., $ lV2-^)» t^e °^ost central vilUge on the
Digitized by VjOOQIC
202 Route 40. ROSSEAU.
three lakes and called at by all the steamers. It has three churches
and stores where all kinds of supplies may be obtained. We now
pass through the locks connecting the two lakes and enter *Lake
Bossean (805 ft.), which is 12 M. long and 1-6 M. wide. Like its
companions, it is dotted with innumerable islands. Our first call is
at(24M.) Windermere (Windermere Ho., $2; Waskada, $lV2-2V2i
Fife Ho., $ IV2), on the E. bank, with two churches, a mechanic
institute, a library, and a group of cottages erected by the Winder-
mere Club. A little farther on we pass the mouth of the Dee (r.),
which canoeists may ascend to (2 M.) Three Mile Lake (p. 200). To
the right, beyond this, lies Rosstreoor ($ 1). On an island to the left
is the new *Boyal Mnskoka Hotel (from $ 3 up) , a large house
with modern equipment and room for 300 guests. There is a golf-
course in connection with the hotel. We then thread the narrow
strait between Tohin Island and the mainland and pass Juddhaven
(1.; Ernescliff, $1V2-2V2; The Bluff, $1). Opposite (r.) openg
Skeleton Bay^ into the head of which flows the Skeleton River^ the
outlet of (4 M.) Skeleton Lake (p. 200 ; Newport Ho., $ 1-1 V2). Just
before reaching Rosseau the steamer stops at the Maplehu/rst Hotel
($ 2), on the left bank. — 33 M. Bosseau (^Monteith Ho.y commercial,
$2; Rosamoynef $ 172"^)) * small village, much resorted to by sum-
mer-visitors and anglers. A charming excursion may be made up
the ^Shadow River ^ which enters the bay here and is so called from
its magical reflections (best in autumn). The Bridal Veil Falls, on
an affluent of the Shadow River, are picturesque. Coaches run from
Rosseau to (7 M.) Port Cockbum (p. 203) and (12 M.) MapU Lake
Station (p. 204).
11. From Muskoka Wharp to Port Cookburn, at the head
of Lake Joseph, 48 M., Steamer in 6V4 hrs. (fare $ 1.26; D. 40 c.).
As far as (21 M.) Port Carting this route coincides with that above
described. On leaving the Indian River, the Lake Joseph steamer
turns to the left and steers through Venetia, the island-dotted S.
part of Lake Rosseau. 23 M. Femdale House ($ 1 Y2), on an Inlet
to the left We then cross to Woodington (Woodington Ho., $ li/2)
and (26 M.) Cleveland's (Cleveland's, Paignton Ho., $ I-IV2).
on the opposite shore, whence we turn to the S. again to (28 M.)
Gregory, at the mouth of the Joseph River , one of the channels
leading to Lake Joseph. The steamer, however, crosses to (30 M.)
Fort Sandfleld (^Prospect Ho., $2), on a short canal made to im-
prove the navigation between Lake Muskoka and *Lake Josepli
(800 ft.), 14 M. long and V2-3V2 M. wide. The first stops made
here are (33 M.) Redwood and (36 M.) HamiFs Point (Hamil's
Hotel, $172)* tli© latter dividing the main lake from FooVs Bay
and Bass Lake. The steamer then steers up the middle of the
lake to (39 M.) the island of Yoho , beyond which it calls at the
(43 M.) StanUy House ($2), on the E. bank. [To the N.E. of
Yoho lies Portage Lake, connected with Lake Joseph and leading
ARNPRIOR. 41. Route, 203
by easy portage to Crane Lake.} — 48 M. Port Coekbnm (Summit
Ho., $ 2), at the head of Lake Joseph, is an excellent centre for
anglers, being within easy reach of innumerable small lakes and
streams. A stage-coach runs hence daily in summer to (8 M.) Maple
Lake Station (p. 204), on the Grand Trunk Railway (for Parry
Sound). A stage also runs hence to (7 M.) Rosseau (p. 202).
Another charming point on Lake Joseph, called at occasionally by the
regular steamers, is Crai^fie Lea (hotel, $ iVv2;, on the E. hank, at the
entrance to the pretty Little Late Jos^h.
III. From Bracbbbidgb to Bala, 21 M., Steamer twice daily in
2 hrs. (fare 60 c.) From Bracehridge (see p. 200) the steamer de-
scends the Muskoka River, passing Alport (r.), to (6 M.) Muskoka
Lake. Here it turns to the N. and calls at (12M.) Beaumaris (p. 201),
where it connects with the Lake Joseph and Lake Rosseau boats.
We. then cross the lake towards the W., calling at (16 M.) Mortimer's
Point. — 21 M. Bala (Windsor Ho., $lV2-2; Musquash Lodge,
$1-172)) the terminus of this route, lies on the E. bank of Lake
Muskoka, at the outflow of the Musquash or Muskosh River, which
carries the waters of the Muskoka lakes to Georgian Bay. Just after
leaving the lake the river forms a fall 20-26 ft. high, below which it
divides into two branches, that to the right taking the name of Moon
River. Good fishing is obtained in both branches and in many small
lakes near Bala.
41. From Ottawa to Depot Harbour (Parry Sownd).
264 M. Grand Tbcnk Railway (Ottawa Division) in 9-10 hrs. (fare $ 8.80;
sleeper $ 2). This railway forms a direct line of communication between
Ottawa and Lake Huron (Georgian Bay) and is also the shortest route from
Ottawa and Montreal to the Muskoka District (p. 201). It runs through the
Algonquin Kationsil Park (p. 204).
Ottawa, see p. 176. The train starts at the Central Station and
at first runs towards the S. It then crosses the Rideau Canal (see
p. 183) and the 0. P. R. (p. 230) and runs towards the E. — 14 M.
South March; 20 M. Carp (the village some distance to the S., on
the river of the same name). We cross the Carp near (29 M.) Kin-
burn. 33 M. Oaletta, on Indian River.
38 M. Arnprior (Charleston, Devin Ho., $ IV2; ^- S. Agent), a
small and thriving town, with (1901) 4152 inhab. and productive
marble-quarries, lies on the S. bank of the Ottawa, near the ex-
pansion of the river known as the Lac des Chats. Good bass-fishing
is enjoyed here. Below the lake the river forms the fine *Falls
or Rapids of the Chats. — Arnprior is also a station on the C. P. R.
(see p. 231).
The railway now skirts the S. bank of the Ottawa for a short
distance and then diverges to the left. 46 M. Glasgow; 60 M. Ooshen.
— At (55 M.) Renfrew (p. 231) we intersect the C.P.R. (R. 48).
We now ascend along the right bank of the Bonnechere River. 61 M,
" ^ DiaitizedbvV
204 Route 41, PAKRY SOUND.
Admaston; Q7M. Douglas; 70 M. Caldwell; 77 M.Eganville, Graph-
ite of good quality has been found in this yioinity. — 85 M. Golden
Lake Station^ at the E. end of the lake, is the junction of a line run-
ning to the N. to Pembroke (p. 231). — 94 M. Killaloe ; 102 M. Wilno ;
109 M. Barry* 9 Bay, To the left lies Bark Lake; to the right (at some
distance) is Little Opeongo Lake, — At (130 M.) Madawaska (Rail.
Restaurant) we enter the valley of that stream, which runs to our
left. — 145 M. Whitney, — Beyond (156 M.) Rock Lake the rail-
way enters the Algonquin National Park (see below), across the
S.W. comer of which it runs (comp. Map at p. 186).
Algonquin Park, a picturesque tract of rock, forest, and water, was
set apart by the Government of Ontario in 1893 for the preservation of
game and forests and as a public pleasure and health resort. It lies on
the watershed between the Ottawa and Georgian Bay and comprises an
area of 2000 sq. M. (ca. 45 M. square). Its fine timber includes white and
red pine, black birch, maple, hemlock, ironwood, beech, black ash, bass-
wood, cedar, spruce, tamarack, and alder, while animated nature id re-
presented by the moose (rare), deer, beaver, bear, wolf, mink, otter, martin,
musk-rat, partridge, duck, trout, bass, whitefish, pike, chub, etc. It con-
tains the fountain-heads of the rivers Muskoka, Ifadawaska, Petawawa,
Bonnechere, and Amable du Fond, and also innumerable lakes, among
the largest of which are the Great Opeongo, Trout Lake^ Misty Lake, Smoke
Lake, Island Lake, and Manitou Lake. Many rough roads (for portages)
have been recently made, and shelter-huts have been built at convenient
points (comp. Hap issued by the Ontario Government). Licenses to fish
(3 2) or make a tour through the park may be obtained on application to
the Superintendent, Mr. Q. W. Bartlett (Algonquin Park, Ont). The charge
for guides is $2V2 per day, with canoe.
The railway - stations within Algonquin Park are (168 M.)
Algonquin Park, (170 M.) Canoe Lake, (182 M.) BriU6 Lake, and
(190M.) Rainy Lake (1630 ft.). —200 M. Ravensworth (inn). 207 M.
Kearney (Kearney Ho., Ottawa Ho., $1) has good trout-flshing and
is said to afford excellent deer and partridge shooting owing to the
overflow from the protected area of Algonquin Park. — At (213 M.)
Scotia Junction (p. 200) we intersect the Grand Trunk Railway from
Toronto to North Bay (R. 40). The line now bends towards the S.W.
— 224 M . Sprucedale (inn) ; 236 M. Seguin Falls; 242 M. Edging-
ton. — 245 M. Maple Lake (Maple Lake Ho., $ 1V2-^) ^orms the N.
gateway to the Muskoka District (R. 40) , stage - coaches running
hence to (8 M.) Port Cockburn (p. 203) and (12 M.) Rosseau (p. 202).
From (257 M.) James Bay Junction a short branch-line runs to
(3 M.) Parry Sound (Belvidere, $2-21/2; Mansion Ho.^ $ lV2-2j
V. 8, Agent), a smalltown with (1901) 2884inhab., situated on the
shore of Parry Sound, at the mouth of the Seguin River, opposite
Parry Island, It is called at by the steamers of the Northern Nav.
Co., which put it in communication with Collingwood, Midland,
Penetang, and other points on Georgian Bay (comp. pp. 198, 223).
Sailing and steam '7achts may be hired here for excursions.
The next station on the main line is (260 M.) Rose Point (Hotel,
$2-3), whence a ferry plies to Parry Sound (see above). The ter-
piinus of the line is at (264 M.) Depot Harbour, on^arry Island.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
yGoogk
yGoogk
yGoogk
yGoogk
205
42. From Toronto to Detroit.
a. Yi& Orand Trunk Bailway.
230 M. Railway in 6-8 hrs. (fare $6,605 sleeper $2, parlor-car $1).
From Montreal to Detroit by this route in 18 hrs. (fare $ 16: sleeper $ 3.50).
Through-cars also run by this route from If ontreal (23 hrs.) and firom
Toronto (13 hrs.) to Chicago (fares $ 18, $ 12.40; sleeper $5, $3). Tickets by
this line are also available vi& Hamilton (comp. R. 44 b). — Trunks checked
through to points in the United States are examined by the custom-house
officers on arrival or departure : hand-baegage is examined in crossing the
St. Glair River.
This line traverses the Peninsula of Ontario, between Lake Erie and
Lake Huron, a district of great fertility but of little interest to the
tourist.
Toronto, see R. 39. The train traTerses the S.W. part of the town,
passing the suburban stations of (2 M.) North Parkdale (p. 206) and
(6 M.) Toronto Junction (6091 inhab. In 1901), and for some time
runs parallel with the C.P.R. Beyond (8 M.) Weston we cross a stream.
21 M. Brampton (2748 inhab.). We cross the Credit River before
reaching (26 M.) Georgetown (Bennett House, $ 1-1 V2 J 1313 inhab.),
where we cross the line running to the N. from Hamilton to Beeion
Junction (sQQ p. 211). Orchards and hop-flelds are passed. At (41 M.)
Rockwood we bend to the left (S.W.). — 48 M. Guelph (Royal,
Wellington, $ 1 1/2), a flourishing Uttle city with (1901) 11,496 inhab.,
manufactures organs, pianos, sewing-machines, and carriage-gear. It
is well known for its Agricultural College, the *Cirencester of Canada'
(left; 135 students). Attached to the college is an experimental farm
of about 650 acres. Guelph is the junction of lines to Oalt (p. 206) and
Harrishurg (p. 2141 and to Wiarton (on Georgian Bay), Southampton
(Commercial, $ 11^), and Kincardine (Park, Royal, $ 1 ; 2077 inhab.),
three small ports on Lake Huron. — From (62 M.) Berlin (American
Ho., $172; 9747 inhab. in 1901), in a district largely settled by
Germans, short lines run to Waterloo (Zimmermann Ho., $172)
and Oalt (p. 206). 82 M. Shakespeare.
88 M. Stratford (Windsor, $2; Albion, $172-^; ^a«. Restow
rant), an agricultural and industrial city with (1901) 9959 inhab., is a
railway-centre of some importance, lines radiating hence to all points
of the compass. Among them is one to (46 M.) Goderich (Hotel
Goderich, $2-3; Bedford, $172-2; U. S. Com. Agent; 4158 inhab.
in 1901), another port on Lake Huron, with good boating, bathing,
and fishing. On the opposite side of the harbour (3 M. by road) is
Meneseiung Park, with a hotel ($21 — 98 M. St, Mary's (National,
Windsor, $ 1), a small town with (1901) 3384 inhab., prettily situated
on hills rising from the riyer Thames (omn. from station to town,
172 M., 16 c). It is the junction of a branch-line to (22 M.) London
(p. 207). — From (116 M.) Lucan Crossing lines run to Goderich
(see above) and London (p. 207). 128 M. Parkhill (Hastings Ho.,
206 RoxUe 42. SARNIA. From Toronto
$1^2; 1^30 inbab.). Several small stations aie passed, witb names
^dicating tbe Scottisb origin of tbelr settlers.
170 M.Saniia (Tunnel Station; Vmdome, $ 2-21/2 ; BeUhaniber,
$ 1V2-2; U. S. Consul, Mr, Neal McMitUm\ a brisk little port with
(1901) 8176 inhab., lies on the St. Clair River, close to its mouth in
Lake Huron. The train now enters the United States (Michigan)
by a Tunnel, IVe M. long, under the river.
The tunnel was constructed in 1888-91 at a cost, including the ap-
proaches, of $ 2,700,000 (540,000 1.). It consists of a cast-iron tube, with an
inside diameter of 20 ft., and was designed by Mr. Joteph Hobson. The
length of the tunnel proper is 6025 ft., of the open portals or approaches
5600 ft. Throughout its entire length it perforates a bed of blue clay, with
sand above and rock below. The engines used to take the trains through
the tunnel have ten driving-wheels and weigh nearly 100 tons.
Examination of baggage, see p. 205. The time changes here from the
Eastern to the Central standard (comp. p. xii).
Steamers of the Northern Navigation Co. run from Sarnia through Lake
Huron to Mackinao Itland (p. 224) and (24 hrs.) Sault Ste. Marie (p. 224),
going on thence to points on Lake Superior.
173 M. Port Huron (Tunnel Station; Harrington, $21/2-31/2;
Windermere, Four Oahles, $ 2-21/2 J RaU. Restaurant), with (1900)
19,158 inhab., lies opposite Sarnia, on the W. bank of the St. Clair
River, and at the mouth of the Black River. It carries on a brisk
trade in timber and fish. Large quantities of salt are produced here,
and it is said that a bed of rock-salt, 100 ft. thick, underlies the
locality. — Our line now turns to the left fS.). 195 M. Lenox; 210 M.
Aft. Clemens (Avery, $3-5; Park, $2-4; Colonial; Eastman), a
favourite summer-resort of the Detroiters. Lake 8t. Clair lies some
distance to the left. 215 M. Fraser; 227 M. Milwaukee Junction;
229 M. Qratiot Avenue.
230 M. Detroit {CadUlac, from $3; Russell Ho., $ 3-5; The
Wayne, $2-31/2; Ste. Claire, $21/2-31/2), the chief city of Michigan,
with (1900) 285,700 inhab., lies on the N. bank of the Detroit River,
connecting Lake Erie with Lake St. Clair, and is fully described in
Baedeker^s United States.
For the rest of the route from Detroit to Chicago, see BaecMterU
United States.
b. Yi& Canadian Pacific Bailway.
281 M. Railway In 7-71/2 hrs. (fares, etc., as at p. 205). Hand-baggage
is examined in crossing the Detroit River. Through-cars run by this route
from Montreal and Toronto to Chicago (fares, etc., as at p. 205). Thia line
also traverses the peninsular part of Ontario.
In leaving Toronto (R. 39) the train passes the suburban station of
(3 M.) Parkdale (p. 205). At (5 M.) Toronto Junction (p. 206J the
line to Owen Sound diverges to the right (see R. 46). From (22 M.)
StreetsvUle Junction a line runs to (33 M.) OrangevUle (p. 222). At
(33 M.) Milton we cross a branch of the G.T.R. From (40 M.) Ouelph
Junction a branch-line runs to (15 M.) Ouelph (p. 205). — 57 M.
Gait (Queen's, American Ho., $ II/2; U. S. Agent), a brisk little city
of (1901)7866 inhab., with manufactures of edge-tools and woollen
to DetroU, LONDON. 42. Route. 207
goods, Is the junction of lines to Berlin (p. 206), HarrUiburg (p. 214),
and Quelph (p. 205). It was named after John Qalt (1779-1839),
the Scottish novelist, author of *the Provost*, etc., and father of Sir
Alex. Gait (d. 1893 j p. 178) and Sir Thomas Gait (d. 1901).
About 4 H. to the N. of Gait, on the railway to Guelph and also
reached by electric tramway, lies Preston {Hot. del Monte. $ 1V2-2), visited
for its mineral springs, which are efficacious in gout and rheumatism.
At \lb M.) Lrumho we cross the G.T.R. — 88 M. WoodBtook
{Boyal, O'Neill Ho., Thompson Ho., $ 1 V2), a city with (1901) 8612
inhab., makes agricultural machinery and furniture and is the focus
of numerous railway-lines (to St. Thomas, Stratford, etc.). Wood-
stock CoUege has about 150 students. — 102 M. Thamesford; 113 M.
Asylum.
116 M. London (Tecumseh Ho., $2-3; Giigg Ho., $11/2-^;
Rail. Restaurant), the ninth city of Canada, with (1901) 37,981 inhab.,
is the central point of what is, perhaps, the richest farming-district
in the country and carries on a large trade in agricultural produce.
Its Industries include petroleum - refining and the manufacture of
agricultural machinery and furniture. It lies on the pretty river
Thames, in the county of Middlesex; and the association with its
mighty protonym is further maintained by the names of its streets
and bridges (Piccadilly, Pall Mall, Kegent St., Oxford St., Blackfriars,
Westminster). The city is well built and contains handsome churches
(St. Paul's, etc.), public buildings, colleges, and an opera-house.
The Western University, established in 1895, is attended by about
200 students. London is the junction of lines to St. Thomas, St.
Mary's, Goderich, Samia, Hamilton, etc. Pleasant excursions may
be made in the environs.
Beyond London the line bends round to the left (S.W.), running
parallel with the G.T.R., which follows almost the same route from
this point to Windsor. Between (126 M.) Komoka and (140 M.)
Appin Junction we cross a branch of the Michigan Central B.R. —
180 M. Chatham {HoUl MernU, $1V2; Raymond Ho., McDonald
Ho., $ 1), also a station on the G.T.R. and the P^re Marquette R.R.,
is a flourishing agricultural centre with (1901) 9068 inhabitants.
Our line crosses the Thames and the G.T.R. here and henceforth runs
to the S. of them. Farther on we skirt the S. bank of Lake St. Clair.
210 M. Belle River. At (223 M.) WalkervUle Junction we cross the
Plre Marquette R.R. (see below).
This line runs to the N. to (3 M.) WalkervUle, on the Detroit Biver,
with its large distilleries (ferry to Detroit). On the S. it runs to (27 M.)
Kmgsville (The Mettawas, $4-5; Middough^s, $ I-IY2) and (35 M.) Leamington
(2451 inhab.), on a bay of Lake Erie, the former frequented as a summer-
resort. Point Pelie, to the S.E. of Leamington, is the southernmost point
in Oinada, except the island of the same name (p. 214).
228 M. Windsor (International Hotel, $ 1-2; U. S. Consul, Mr.
H. A. Conant), with (1901) 12,153 inhab., lies upon the St. Olair River,
immediately opposite Detroit, and contains the suburban homes of
208 43. Route. NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE. From Toronto
many of its citizens. It is the W. terminus of the G.T.R. and G.P.R. and
is also a station on the Michigan Central R.R. from Buffalo to Chicago.
The trains are transported across the river, here */2 M. wide, by large
steam-ferry-boats. The surrounding country produces large quantities
of pears, peaches, and grapes.
231 M. Detroit, see p. 206.
43. From Toronto to Niagara (cmd Buffalo),
a. By Steamer.
Stsambbs of the Nicigara Navigation Co. leave Toronto 6 times every
week-day for £«irifto», calling at Niagara-on-tho-Lake and Qiueen^on and
taking 2Vs-d hrs. to the trip. The distance is about 42 M., of which 85 11.
are on the Lake of Ontario and 7 M. on the Niagara River. Lewiston is
7 M. 0/3 hr.) from Niagara by railway (through-fare $1.66; restaurant on
board the steamer). Through-tickets are issued by this route to Buffalo
and other points in the United States. Baggage is examined by custom-
house officers on the steamer. A small river-steamer runs hourly between
Lewiston and Niagara.
Travellers who wish to combine a lake- voyage with a visit to Hamilton
Cp. 209) may take the steamer ^Turbinia* to that city (86 M., in 2 hrs.)
and proceed thence by train as in B. 48b (fare to Hamilton 75 c). The
'Turbinia' calls at Burlington Beach (p. 210).
The steamer starts from the "iongt St. Wharf (PI. E, 4) , passes
the W. end of the island, and then steers nearly due S. across Lake
Ontario. In summer the water is usually calm.
Lake Ontario (247 ft. above the sea), the easternmost and lowest of
the Great Lakes, is 197 M. long and 80-70 M. wide, with an area of 7260 sq. M.
Its greatest depth is 788 ft. It receives the waters of the Upper Lakes
through the Niagara Biver and discharges at its E. end into the St. Law-
rence. The shores are generally low, with few peninsulas or promontories,
and possess many excellent harbours. There are few islands of any aise,
the most important being Wolfe Island, at the outlet. The first sailing-
vessel on Lake Ontario was built for La Salle at the *Oabins^ (now King-
ston) in 1678. Ghamplain named the lake Lake St. Louity and it was after-
wards known for a short time as Lake Frontenac.
On reaching the opposite shore the steamer makes its first stop at
Niagara -on -the -Lake {Queeri's Boyal Hotel, from $3; The Oban,
$ 2-3), a favourite watering-place situated on the left (Canadian)
bank of the Niagara Biver, at the point where it enters Lake Ontario.
Pop. (1901) 1258. Good boating, bathing, and fishing are obtained
here. Niagara-on-the-Lake was originally named Newark and -was
the first capital of Upper Canada (see p. xxiii). Some remains of
the old Fort Missasaga are still visible. An important Lawr^ Termii
Toumamer^t (Canadian Championship) is held here in summer. On
the opposite bank lies Youngstown, with the white Fort Niagara,
first established in 1678 and now garrisoned by U. S. troops. Pas-
sengers who prefer it may disembark at Niagara-on-the-Lake and
continue their journey by the Michigan Central R.R. on the W. bank.
Between its mouth and Lewiston the Niagara River runs be-
tween high wooded banks. The steamer first calls at Queenston, a
village on the Canadian shore, and then crosses to* its., terminus at
' Digitized by VjCTU
to Niagara, HAMILTON. 43, Route 209
Lewiston (American Ho., Frontier Ho., $2), a Tillage of 700 inhab.,
on the E. or American bank of the river. A fine snspension-bridge,
erected in 1899, 800 ft. in span, and traversed by an electric tram-
way, connects Lewiston with Queenston.
The Battle of Qitemtton Heights^ fought between the Americans and
Canadians on Oct. 13th, 1812, ended after a severe straggle in the a access
of the latter. They paid for their victory with the loss of their leader Sir
Isactc Brock, and the spot where he fell is marked bv the Broek Monument
(190 ft. high), the top of which commands a splendid *View, sometimes
inclading a dim vision of Toronto.
Passengers leave the steamer either at Queenston or Lewiston,
finishing their journey in the one case by the Niagara Falls Park
and River Electric Railway (p. 215), and in the other by the Gorge
Electric Line (p. 215; New York Central R.R. tickets accepted) or
by the New York Central R.R,, which runs along the E. side of the
Niagara gorge, affording fine *View8 of the Lower Rapids and the
Whirlpool (comp. p. 221).
7 M. Niagara FaUs (N. Y.), see p. 215.
Beyond Niagara Falls the railway goes on, following the river
pretty closely, to (11 M. from Niagara Falls) Tonawanda and (22 M.)
Buffalo (see Baedeker^s United States).
b. By Orand Trunk Eailway.
Grand Trunk Railway to (82V4 M.) Niagara Falls (Ont.) or (82S/4 M.)
Suspension Bridge in 2-3 hrs. (fares $2.60, parlor-car 50 c.). Passengers for
Niagara Falls (N.Y.) and Buffalo shoald enquire whether it is necessary
to change carriages at Suspension Bridge and complete their journey by
the N.Y.O.B.E. (through-fare to Niagara Falls $2.65. to Buffalo $3.15). —
Luggage checked through to U.S. points is examined either before starting
or on arrival ; hand-baggage is examined in crossing the Bailway Bridge
(see p. 211).
Toronto^ see R. 39. The train runs to the W. along the water-
front, skirting the Exhibition Grounds (p. 196) and passing the sub-
urban stations of (272 M.) South Parkdale, (41/2 M.) Swansea,
(6V2 M.) Mimico, and (7 M.) New Toronto, Farther on it continues
to run near the lake. 9 M. Long Branch (p. 191) ; 11 M. Rifle Ranges;
13 M, Port Credit, with golf-links (electricline, see p. 191)); 15 M.
Lome Park; 16 M. Clarkson's, The country is fairly diversified.
21 M. Oahville (Canadian Hotel, Oakville Ho., $1V2), ^ith (1901)
1643 inhab. and large strawberry-gardens. At (311/2 M.) Burlington
Crossing a branch-line diverges to the left, leading to Hamilton via
Burlington Beach (p. 210) but used by freight- trains only. 32 M.
Burlington; 35 M. Waterdown. The fertile fruit-growing country
we are now traversing is known as the 'Garden of Canada'.
39 M. Hamilton. — Hotels. Royal (PI. b 5 B, 3), 79 James St. North,
$2Vt-4< Waldorf (PI. a-, B,3), $2-3; Osbobnb(P1. c-, B, 3), $2*, Commbbcial
(PI. d ', B, 3), $ lV2i Stocktabd (PI. f 5 D, 2), $ I-IV2. — Railway Restaurant.
Tramways traverse thechief streets (5 c.). — Cabs 25 c. per drive witMn
the city for each pers. ; per hour, 1-4 pers., $ 1. — Post Office, 2 John St,
South (7-6). — Grand Opera House, James St. North. — Hcmilton Club,
James St. — U. S. Consul, Mr. James M. Shepard. Digitized by VjOOglC
Babdbkss^s Canada. 3rd £dit. 11
210 Route 43. HAMILTON.
HamUlon (256 ft.), the sixth city of Canada, with (1901) 62,634
inhab., was founded about 1810 and is pleasantly situated on HamU'
ton Bay, at the W. end of Lake Ontario, on one of the steps oi ter-
races which surround the lake and seem to have at one time formed
its shore. It carries on a very considerable commerce by land and
water and has some claim to the title of the 'Birmingham of Canada*
in virtue of its numerous industries (value of products in 1901^
$ 17,122,346} hands employed, 10,196). The products include steel,
iron, cotton, and woollen goods, agricultural machinery, elevators,
boots, and many other articles. Its harbour is formed by Burlington
Beach, a sand-spit 5 M. long, resembling the island at Toronto (see
p. 197), through which a short canal has been dug. Behind the
town rises the so - called Mountain (250 ft.) , part of the 'Niagara
Escarpment* (*View ; inclined railway to the top, 5 c). Hamilton is
well laid out and contains many substantial public and private
buildings. It is the centre of the fruit district of W. Canada and
the seat of bishops of the Anglican and Roman Catholic churches.
Near the centre of the city lies the pretty triangular park named
the ♦Gore (PI. B, 3), formed by the convergence of York, James, and
King Sts. Round it are grouped many of the principal buildings of
the city, including the Post Office (PI. B, 3), the Bank of Hamilton
(PI. B, 3), the Cuitom Howe (PI. 3; B, 3), the Bank of British North
America (PI. 1 ; B, 3), and the offices of the Canada Life Auurance Co,
(PI. 2 ; B, 3) and the HamUton Provident ^ Loan Society (PI. 5 j B, 3).
The School Buildings are unusually handsome and substantial, and
many of the Churches are also fine. Other important edifices are the
aty Hall (PI. B, 3), the Court House (PI. B, 3, 4), and the Free Public
Library (PI. 6; B, 3). On the top of the Mountain stands the large
Oovemment Lunatic Asylum (beyond PI. A, 4). Many of the hand-
somest private residences are near the base of the Mountain j one of
theflnestis Wesanford (VL7-, B,3),thehomeoftheHon.W.E.Sanford,
with good art-collections. Among the chief industrial establishments
of Hamilton are the Hamilton Steel ^ Iron Co. (with a blast fur-
nace with a capacity of 260 tons a day), the International Har-
vester Co. (1800 hands), and the Canadian Westinghouse Co, —
Dundum Park (VI, A, 1, 2) affords pretty walks and contains Dundum
CastUy with a historical museum. Hamilton has, perhaps, the best
Racecourse in America (beyond PI. D, 3).
Burlington Beach (^Hotel Brant, $ 2; see above) is, like the Island at
Toronto, a favourite summer- resort of the townspeople. It is reached
by the Hamilton Radial Bailway (electric) and is also called at regularly
by the steamer between Hamilton and Toronto (comp. p. 308)} the steam-
boat-wharf is 1 M. from the centre of the town (tramway 5 c, eab for
1-2 pers. 50 c).
Another pleasant short excursion may be made to (6 M.) Duidat (p. 214),
Fboh Hamilton to Allandale, 91 M., Grtmd Trunk Railway -n 44Vt hrs.
(fare $ 2.85). — This line crosses Burlington Beach, and diverges ^o the left
at (11 M.) Burli$kgton CrosHng (p. 209) from the above-described line to
Toronto. At (21 M.) Milton (p. 206) we intersect the G.P.B. from Toronto
to Detroit; at (82 M.) Georgetown (p. 206) we intersect the G.T.B. line
yGoogk
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ST. CATHARINE'S. 43. Route. 211
from Toronto to Port Huron ; and at (48 M.) Car dwell Junction we connect
with the C.P.R. branch to Owen Sound (E. 46). — At (66 M.) Beeton^ famous
for it3 honey, the line forks, the left branch leading to (41 M.) Collingwood
(p. 198), while the right branch runs to (91 H.) AUandalOi where It unites
with the line to the Mutkoka District described at p. 198.
Fbom Hamilton to Pobt Doveb, 40 M., Grand Trunk Railway in 3 hrs.
(fare $ 1.25). — Port Dover is a small harbour on Lake Erie.
Stbahbb from Hamilton, via Toronto, to the 8t. Lawrence and Montreal^
see p. 226.
From Hamilton to Detroit, see B. 44 b.
Beyond Hamilton the train rans towards the £., parallel with the
S. shore of Lake Ontario, frequent views of which are obtained to
the left. 46 M. Stony Creek; 50 M. Wmona; 66 M. Grimsby; 57 M.
Grimsby Parkj a summer-resort with a large Methodist camp-meeting
ground. The district we are now traversing is one vast orchard, pro-
ducing large quantities of peaches and other fruit. 65 M. Jordan. —
71 M. St. Catharine's (The Wellandj a combination of hotel and
sanatorium, $2V2"3V2} including baths, massage, etc.; Grand Ctn-
tral, $11/2; t/. S. Agent), a prettily-situated little city with (1901)
9946 inhab., lies to the left (N.) of the railway, on the Welland
Canal (see below). It carries on ship-building and other industries,
which are greatly facilitated by its cheap and abundant electric
power. Its saline springs, efficacious in rheumatism , gout, skin-
diseases, and nervous prostration, attract numerous visitors. The
Bishop Ridley College is a Church of England institution attended
by about 160 boys.
The Welland Ship Oanal, originally built about 1824 and reconstructed
in 1876, runs from Port Dalhotiiie^ on Lake Ontario, to Port Colbome, on
Lake Erie, a distance of 26V4 M., and affords an outlet from the Upper
Lakes to the St. Lawrence and the sea for vessels of 15(X) tons. The canal
is 14 ft. deep and 100 ft. wide at the bottom; it is to be deepened to 20 ft.
About 1,600,0(X) tons of goods are annuaUy carried through it.
St. datharine's is also connected by railway with (3 M.) Port Dalhoiuie
(also electric tramway) and (22 M.) Port Colborne.
At (73 M.) Menitton (1710 inhab.) the train crosses the Welland
Canal (see above) by a bridge.
Near Merritton is the battlefield of Beaver Dams (June 24th, 1813),
marked by a small monument, where Ensign Fitzgibbon, with iX) British
soldiers and 200 Indians, captured an American force of 660 men. The
British outpost here was warned of the American approach by the heroism
of Mrs. Laura Secord, who traversed 20 M. of Indian-haunted forest alone
and on foot.
The Canadian town of (821/4 M.) Niagara Falls (Lafayette,
$ 21/2-3 V2; Hotel Rosli, $272-3; U. S. Consul, Mr. W. H. H. Web-
ster), with (1901) 4244 inhab. fincluding Clifton), Ues at the W.
end of the Railway Bridge (p. 220). It is a manufacturing place
(value of products in 1901, $422,728) and is not very conveniently
situated for visitors to the Falls (see, however, the note on the
electric railway at p. 215). The new Collegiate Institute is a hand-
some building.
The train moves slowly across the bridge (unobstructed view of
the Whirlpool Rapids, p. 221) to the (823/4 M.) Sxtspensiorh^^JiJ^
14* ' ^
212 Route 44. ST. THOMAS.
Station^ (hand-baggage examined, see p. 209), where passengers
sometimes change carriages for the N. Y. 0. line to (2M.) the American
town of Niagara Falls (see p. 215).
c. By Canadian Pacific Railway.
99 M. Canadian Pacific Bailwat to (82 M.) Welland in 2 hrs. •, Michi-
gan Centbal Railboad thence to (17 M.) Niagara FalU (N.Y.) in V* br.
(fares, etc., as at p. 209).
Between Toronto and (39 M.) Hamilton the C. P. R. trains run
oyer the lines of the G. T. R. (R. 43 b).
Beyond Hamilton the train follows the tracks of the Toror^to^
Hamilton^ ^ Buffalo Railway^ which runs in an almost straight line
(S.E.) to Welland. — 43 M. BartonvUU; 46 M. Stony Creek; 55 M.
Vinemount; 60 M. Grassie's; 63 M. Smithville; 71 M. Silverdale;
78 M. ChantUr's. At (82 M.) WeUand (p. 213), on the Welland
Canal (p. 211), we cross the line from St. Catharine's to Port Col-
borne (p. 211). Hence to (99 M.) Niagara Falls^ see p. 213.
44. From Detroit to Buffalo.
Detroit and Buffalo are both in the United States , but the direct
routes between them pass almost wholly through Canadian territory.
a. Vi& Michigan Central Bailroad.
261 M. Railway CNiagara FalU Routs') in 6-7 hra. (fare $ 7, sleeper
$ 2). This line runs along the N. shore of Lake Erie, through Ontario,
and affords a good view of Niagara Falls (see p. 213). It forms part of
one of the great through - routes between Kew York and Chicago (see
Baedekar's United States). Luggage checked through to United States points
is not examined; luggage from Canadian points is examined in crossing
the Cantilever Bridge (p. 220).
From Detroit (p. 206) we cross the Detroit River to (1 M.) Windsor,
as described at p. 208. The line runs at first towards the S.W., but
turns abruptly to the left at (15 M.) Essex Centre, the junction of a
branch-line to (16 M.) Amherstburg (Lakeview Ho., $lV2j ^- S.
Consul, Mr. C. W. Martin; 2222 inhab.). The country traversed is
flat and fertile, without great scenic attractions. The section between
Fargo and St. Thomas is almost absolutely straight, forming one of
the longest railroad-tangents in the country. From (31 M.) Comber
a branch runs to (14 M.) Leamington (p. 207). At (57 M.) Fargo
we intersect the Erie & Hnron R.B. 68 M. Ridgetown (Benton Ho.,
$ 11/2; 2405 inhab.); 91 M. Button.
112 M. St. Thomas (Grand Central, $2-21/2; Columbia, $1V2;
U. S. Consul, Mr. M. K. Moorhead), a thriving city of (1901) 11,485
inhab., with various industries and a trade in agricultural produce, is
t This name is somewhat of a misnomer since the construction of the
new bridge (see p. 220). ^.^.^^^^ ^^ GoOglc
BRANTFORD. 44, Route, 213
the janction of lines to QUncoe, London (p. 207; 15 M.), Toronto
(p. 190), etc. A short branch -line runs to the S. to (8 M.) Port
Stanley (Fraser's Hotel , $ 1-2) , a harbour and summer-resort on
Lake Erie, with a fine sandy beach. — Near (131 M.) Brownsville
is the large jLactomen Factory, for the production of dried milk.
Farther on we cross two branches of the G. T. R. — From (159 M.)
Waterford a line runs to (17 M.) Brantford (Kerhy Ho,, $ 2 ; Com^
mercialy $ li/2; V, 8. Agent), a city of (1901) 16,619 inhab., with
manufactures of agriculturtd implements, stoves, waggons, and
bicycles. It is named after the famous Mohawk chief Brant, who
remained loyal to England at the American Revolution and migrated
hither, with part of his tribe, after the close of the war. A fine
monument to him has been erected in Victoria Square. Brantford,
which is known for its high-class schools, is the headquarters of
the amalgamated tribes of the Six Nations. Brant is buried in the
old Mohawk Church, 2 M. from the city, where services are still held
in the Mohawk dialect The Bow Park Farm, with its famous
thoroughbred stock, lies 3 M. from the city. — At (171 M.) Hagers^
vUle we cross the G. T. R. line from Hamilton to Port Dover (see
p. 210) and at (185 M.) Canfield the G. T. R. line from Buffalo to
Goderich (p. 205). — 213 M. VF«Wand (Dexter Ho., Arlington, $ IV2),
with (1901) 1863 inhab. and large cordage-works, is one of the pros-
perous little settlements that have sprung up along the Welland Canal
(p. 211). From this point a short line runs direct to (23 M.) Buffalo,
Yi& Bridgeburg and the International Bridge, but our line turns to
the left (N.E.) and reaches the Niagara River at (223 M.) Falls View,
where all trains stop five minutes to allow passengers to enjoy the
splendid *View of Niagara Falls (p. 216). The train then runs to the
N. to (225 M.) VictoHa Park (p. 219), and (226 M.) Niagara Falls,
Ont, (p. 211), whence it crosses the Niagara by the Cantilever Bridge
(p. 220 ; ♦View of the rapids) to (227 M.) Suspension Bridge (p. 212).
Thence to (229 M.) Niagara Falls, N. Y,, and (251 M.) Buffalo, see
pp. 212, 209.
Beyond Niagara Falls (Ont.) the Michigan Central B.R. runs to the N.
to (6 M.) Queeruton (p. 208) and (13 M.) Niagara-on-the-Lake (p. 208).
b. Vifc Grand Tnrnk Bailway.
255 M. Railway in 7-8 hrs. (fares, etc., as at p. 212; parlor-car $ iVO-
This line runs via London, Hamilton, Suspension Bridge, and Niagara
Falla (N. Y.).
From Detroit (p. 206) we cross to (1 M.) Windsor (p. 207) as
at p. 208. From Windsor to (110 M.) London (p. 207) the route is
substantially the same as that followed by the C.P.R. (R. 42 b). The
chief intermediate station is (46 M.) Chatham (p. 207).
Beyond London the line continues to follow a general N.E. di-
rection. 130 M. Ingersoll (Atlantic Hotel, $11/2). At (138 M.)
Woodstock (p. 207) we touch the C.P.R. line to Toronto and cross
the G.T.R. line to Goderich (p. 205). 157 M. Paris (Arlington,
214 Route 44, LAKE ERIE.
$11/2; U- S. Agent)} 167 M. Harrisburg (Rail. Restaniant), a rail-
way-junction of some importance (comp. p. 205). — 180 M. Dundas
(Riley Ho., $ IV2), a town with (1901) 3173 inhab., is older than
Hamilton and was at one time a rlTal. The scenery here is very
attractive. — 186 M. Hamilton (Bail. Restaurant), see p. 209.
From Hamilton to (230 M.) NiagaralFalls (N.Y.) and (255 M.)
Buffalo, see pp. 211, 209.
c. By Steamer.
The large and admirably equipped steamers of the Kobthbbn Steam-
ship Co. ply from Detroit to Cleveland (fare $ 2.26) and Buffalo ($ 4.75),
twice weekly, taking 18-20 hrs. to the journey. Meals a la carte. — The
smaller and slower steamers of the Anchor Line ply thrice fortnightly,
taking about one day (fare $ 6V«i including berth and meals). They ciJl
at Cleveland ($ 3) and Erie ($ 5). Warm wraps should be taken even in
midsummer. For fuller details and an account of the voyage all the way
between Buffalo and Chicago^ see Baedeker^ United State*.
Detroit, see p. 206. The steamer first descends the Detroit River,
which varies in width from 4 M. at its mouth to V2 M. opposite De-
troit. It generally presents a very animated sight ; and some idea of
the traffic on the Great Lakes may be gathered from the fact that
at least 60,000 vessels pass Detroit yearly in the seven months
during which navigation is open, carrying about 60 million tons of
freight.
• Lake Erie (573 ft. above the sea), which we reach about 18 M.
from Detroit, the second (counted from the E.) of the Great Lakes,
is 250 M. long and 40-60 M. wide, with an area of 9900 sq. M.
It is by far the shallowest of all , having an average depth of 86 ft.
and a maximum depth of 210 ft. It communicates with Lake Huron by
the Detroit River (see above) and pours its waters into Lake Ontario by
the Niagara Biver (see p. 216). It is the scene of a very basy navigation.
The first vessel to navigate the lake was built on the Niagara Biver by
La Salle in 1679, and the first steamboat was launched in 1818.
The steamer passes the *Put'in'Bay Islands, a favourite summer-
resort (several hotels), about 20 M. from the mouth of the Detroit;
the largest is Pelee Island, 8 M. from Foini Pelie (p. 207) and belong-
ing to Canada. "We then steer for the S. (U.S.) shore.
66 M, (from Detroit) Sandusky is passed without a stop. The
coast farther on is varied and picturesque.
115 M. Cleveland (580 ft.; Hollendm, R. from $1; Euclid,
R. from $ 1 ; Colonial; Forest City, $ 2-3) , the largest city of Ohio,
with (1900) 381,768 inhab. and large iron and steel works, is fully
described in Baedeker's United States.
Cleveland is one of the most beautiful cities on the Great Lakes, and
is seen to advantage from the steamer. The Oarjleld Memorial, over the
grave of President Garfield, is conspicuous to the E. of the city.
Beyond Cleveland the steamer runs near the well-wooded shore.
210 M. Erie (Reed Ho., $ 2-4i/2; LUhel Ho., $2-2J/2; Vnion
Depot Hotel), a shipping-port of Pennsylvania, with (1900) 62,733
inhab. and a good harbour, sheltered by Pres^e/^te, was the head-
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NIAGARA FALLS. ib.BouU. 215
quarters of Commodore Ftffy when he defeated the Anglo-Canadian
fleet in 1813. This is usually the last point touched at, Dunkirk and
other places being passed over;
290 M. Buffalo [Iroquoit^ $4-5, R. f^om $ IV2; Lenox, R. from
$11/2; La fay tile; OeneaeeHo,, from $3, R. from $ IJ, see Baedeker' 9
United States.
45. Niagara Falls.
BaUway Btationi. New York Central (PI. 0, 4), cor. of Falls St. and
Second St., also naed by the Michigan Central, West Shore, Lehigh Valley,
and the R. W. A O. Railways ; Erie Depot (PI. C, 4), cor. of Niagara St.
and Second St. — The Canadian lines make connection for Kiagara Falls
at Sutpeniion Bridge (PI. C, 1 ; p. 212), 2 M . to the K. ; and there are
also stations on the Canadian side at Niagara FalU {Ontario; PI. B, 1),
Victoria Park (PI. A, 3), and FalU View (PI. A, 6; comp. p. 218). — Nia-
gara Falls, N.Y., is also connected with Suspension Bridge by tramway (5 c.).
Hotels. Intbknatiomal Hotbl (PI. a; B, 4), $3-5V2t Cataract Hotel
(PI. b; B, 4), close to the river, $3-6V2, these two under one manage-
ment (all meals served in the International) ; Pbospeot House (PI. c; C.4^,
$ 3V2-6*/ai Kaltenbach (PI. d; C, 4), German, well spoken of, from $ 3;
IMPEBIAL (PI. e; C, 4), $272-45 To WEB (PI. f; B, 4). $ 2V24. The first
two are open in summer onlv. These are all on the American side, in
the city of Niagara FalU (p. 217). — 'Clifton Hodsb (PI. h, A 4^ re-opened
in 1906), on the Canadian side, near the Upper Steel Arch Bridge, with a
fine view of the Falls, from $ 4, with bath from $ 5; Lafatbtte (PL c\
A, 3), opposite the Canadian end of the Upper Steel Arch Bridge, $ 2*7^-
8V2, both open all the year round.
Carriages. The former extortionate charees and impertinent demeanour
of the Niaeara hackmen have been somewhat abated, but the cab-touts
at the station are scarcely to be trusted. The rates are $ IVs for the first
and $ 1 for each addit. hr., with two horses $ 2 and $ £1/2 ^ but it is
always advisable to make a distinct bargain with the driver, and lower
terms than the legal rates may often be obtained, especially by a party.
It should be expressly stipulated who is to pay the tolls in crossing the
bridges, etc. 5 and the driver should be strictly enjoined not to stop at
the bazaars or other pay-places unless ordered to do so. A single-horse con-
veyance should not cost more than $3 for half-a-day or $0 for a whole
day, and small carriages for 1-2 pers. are generally obtainable for $ 1 per
hour. — Park Vane make the round of the American Reservation at frequent
intervals (fare 25 c., for Goat Island 15c.), and passengers are entitled to
alight at any number of points and finish the round by any subsequent
vehicle on the same day. — Omn%bu$ from the station to the hotels 25 c.
Slectrio Tramways. The Imtebmational Bailwat runs along the
Canadian bank from Qiueenston (p. 208^ see PI. B, 1) to (IIV2M.) Chippawa
(beyond PI. C, 6 5 p. 221 \ fare 45 c), taking 1 hr. to the trip. The inter-
mediate stations are Brock's Monument (p. »)9; fare 10 c), the Whirlpool
(p. 221 \ 20 c), Niagara FalU Town (p. 211 ^ 25 c), and Niagara FalU Park
(p. 219} 30 c). The Niaqaba Gorge Railboad C Great Gorge Route'), on
the American side, runs through the goige and along the brink of the river
to (7 M.) Lewiiton (p. 208; fare 60 c, there and back 75 c), and thence on to
Toungstown and (14 M.) Fort Niagara (p. 208; 65 c, 95 c). — These lines
afford admirable views of the rapids, gorge, and falls. Visitors are recom-
mended to take the Canadian line to Queenston. cross the suspension-
bridge to Lewiston and return on the American side (or vice vers& \ round-
trip fare $ 1). This is known as 'The Niagara Belt Line". Evening-
excursions are sometimes arranged, with search-light effects on the rapids
and whirlpool. 'Stopovers' are allowed on these lines without extra
charge. — An electric railway also runs from Niagara io Bi^falo (i^/ihr.;
fare 35 c, return-fare 50 c). C^r\r\n]o
' ' Digitized by VjOOyic
216 Route 45. NIAGARA FALLS. Reservations,
Feei. Since the establishment of the American and Canadian National
Parks and Reservations, most of the former extortionate fees have been
abolished; and any visitor who is able to walk a few miles can see all
the chief points at very little cost. Ooat Island and all the best views
of the Falls are free; and the only extra expenses which the visitor is
advised to incur are the trip in the ^Maid of the Mitt^ including the visit
to the Canadian side (50 c.), the Cave of the Wind* ($1; or the similar trip
on the Canadian side, 50 c.)} and the view of the Whirlpool Rapids (50 c).
Photographs. Among the best photographs of Niagara are those of
Zyhach & Co., Niagara Falls, Ontario (p. 211).
Reservations. The New York State Reservation at Niagara comprises
107 acres and was opened in 18S5. It includes Prospect Park and Ooat
Island. — The Qmen Victoria Niagara Falls Park, extending along the river
on the Canadian side all the way from Lake Erie to Lake Ontario, covers
787 acres ; the Park Reservation in the immediate neighboorhood of the
Falls contains 196 acres.
Plan and Season of Visit. The description in the text follows the
best order in which to visit the Falls. The American side is seen to
greatest advantage in the morning, the Canadian side in the afternoon,
the sun being then at our backs as we face the Falls. The Whirlpool Ra-
pids are best seen from the Canadian side. It is possible to see all the
chief points in one day, but it is better to allow 2-3 days for the visit. Hay,
the first half of June, the second half of Sept., and Oct. are good seasons
to visit Niagara, which is hot and crowded in midsummer. No one who
has an opportunity to see them should miss the Falls in the glory of
their winter-dress.
The ♦•PallB of Niagara (^Thunder of Waters'), perhaps the
greatest and most impressive of the natural wonders of America,
are situated on the Niagara River , 22 M. from its head in Lake Erie
and 14 M. above its mouth in Lake Ontario. This river forms the
outlet of the four great Western lakes (Erie, Huron, Michigan, and
Superior), descending about 330 ft. in its course of 36 M. and af-
fording a channel to a large part of the fresh water of the globe.
Its current is swift for about 2 M. after leaving Lake Erie, but be-
comes more gentle as the channel widens and is divided into two
parts by Orand Island (p. 221). Below the island the stream is 2 V2 M.
wide. About 15 M. from Lake Erie the river narrows again and the
rapids begin, flowing with ever-increasing speed until in the last 8/4 M.
above the Falls they descend 55 ft. and flow with immense velocity.
On the brink of the FaUs, where the river bends at right angles from
W. to N., the channel is again diTided by Ooat Island, which occupies
about one-fourth of the entire width of the river (4770 ft.\ To the
right of it is the •American Fall, 1060 ft. wide and 167 ft high,
and to the left of it is the **Canadian or HorseBhoe Fall, 158 ft
high, with a contour of 2550 ft The volume of water which pours
over the FaUs is 12 million cubic ft. per minute (nearly 1 cubic
mile per week), of which probably nine - tenths go over the Cana-
dian FaUt. The cloud of spray and vapour hanging over the Falls is
visible for miles. Immediately at the foot of the Falls the water is
80 smooth that it generally freezes over in winter, forming the so-
called *Ice Bridge'. The river then contracts to 1000-1250 ft., and
t The International boundary passes near Terrapin Boclc (p. 219), thus
leaving a small part of the Horseshoe Fall in American -territor v.
HUtory. NIAGARA FALLS. 45. RouU, 217
rushes down foaming and boiling between lofty rocky walls. Two
miles farther down it is barely 800 ft wide, and at the Whirlpool (p.22i)
the huge volume of water is compressed into a space of 250 ft. Within
7 M. these lower rapids descend over 100 ft., but at Lewiston the
river once more becomes wider, smoother, and navigable.
The gorge through which the river runs has been formed by the action
of the vast body of water rushing through it, and the Falls themselves
are receding up the river at a rate which in 1842-90 averaged 5 ft. per
annum in the centre of the Horseshoe Fall and 2/3 ft. in the American Fall.
The rocks pasred through by the receding falls are sandstone, shale, and
limestone. At present the formation over which the water pours is iime^
stone, with shide lying 80-90 ft. below it) and the frequent fall of great
masses of limestone rock is undoubtedly occasioned by the erosion of the
underlying shales. At the Whirlpool the continuity of the rock-formation is
interrupted, and the whole wall of the ravine is formed of drift. Geologists
tell us that a farther retrocession of about 2 M. will cut away the layers
of both limestone and shale and leave the falls stationary on the sand-
stone, with their height reduced about 60 per cent.
Niagara Falls appear under the name of Ongiara in Sanson*s Map of
Canada (Pauris, 1657), but the first white man known to have seen Niagara
Falls was Father Hennepin^ a member of La Sailers party in 1678. He
described them as *a vast and prodigious Cadence of Water, which falls
down after a surprizine and astonishhig manne r, insomuch that the Uni-
verse does not afford its Parallel . . . The Waters which fall from
this horrible Precipice do foam and boyl after the most hideous manner
imaginable, making an outrageous Noise, more terrible than that of Thun-
der ; for when the Wind blows out of the South, their dismal roaring may •
be heard more than 16 leagues off^. The sketch he made of the Falls
shows several points of diflference from their present state.
The Indians have a tradition that the Falls demand two human victims
every year^ and the number of accidents and suicides is perhaps large
enough to maintain this average. Many lives have been lost in foolhardy
attempts to cross the river above Goat Island.
The American city of Niagara Falls (hotels, see p. 215) closely
adjoins the river and in 1900 contained 19,457 inhab. (as compared
with 5602 in 1890). The chief source of its prosperity has long been
the influx of sightseers ; but it is now, thanks to the tapping of the
Falls by tunnels and power-canals (see below), rapidly becoming an
industrial centre of great importance. It is estimated that about
700,000 tourists visit the Falls yearly.
Within the past few years the authorities of Canada and the United States
have authorized the subtraction of water from Niagara for industrial pur-
goses to the extent of no less than 760,000 horse-power; and already 80,000
. p. is ready for use on the Canadian side and 140,000 h. p. on the American
side. So far the general appearance of the Falls has been little marred by
these operations (except for the intrusion of power-houses and distributing-
stations on the Canadian shore); but a good deal of apprehension exists as
to the possible diminution of the grandeur of Niagara, and it is hoped that
an international agreement may be arrived at to secure a modut operandi
that will satisfy at once the demands of the industrialists and those of the
lovers of natural beauty. On the American side a tunnel (PI. B-D, 4), 29 ft.
deep and 18 ft. wide, has been excavated through tbe solid rock from a
point just below the Upper Steel Arch Bridge to a point about 11/4 M. above
the Falls, where it is I06 ft. below the level of the river. It passes below
the city at a depth of about 200 ft. A short canal diverts a portion of the
river to the head of the tunnel, where a maximum of 120-150.000 horse-
power is attained. A similar tunnel on the Canadian side is 2000 ft. long,
26 ft. high, and 231/2 ft. wide. The largest steel flume in the world, 18 ft.
218 Route 45, NIAGARA FALLS. Cave of tJu Winds.
in diameter, rans below the Canadian National Park, carrying enoogh water
to develop 60,000 horse -power. The farthest point to which the power of
Niagara has so far been transmitted is Syracuse, 160 M. distant. The power
derived from Niagara is used not only in manufactoring but also for the
lighting of several towns and for hnndreds of miles of electric railways.
The traveller should undoubtedly visit one of the power-houses, where he
will receive an impression of weird force hardly unworthy of mention be-
side that produced by the Falls themselves. The intake-canals , the wheel-
pits, the huge ^penstocks* or vertical inlet-pipes, the turbines, the generators,
etc., are all full of interest even for the non-professional visitor. The power-
house of the Niagara Fall* Co. (80,000 h. p.; adm. 25 C; guide), on the
American side, is easily reached by the Buffalo trolley or any of the cars
marked Tower House\ The Ontario Potoer Co. (50 c.; p. 220) and the Cana-
dian Niagara Power Co. (25 c.), both on the Canadian side, also admit visitors.
— With the Niagara Falls Co. Power House may be combined a visit to the
Natural Food Conservatory (PI. C, 4), in Buffalo Ave. where the well-known
shredded-wheat biscuits are made. Besides the processes of manufacture,
the visitor will find many features of interest in the arrangement of the
factory, including the employees' dining-rooms, the marble bathroom, and
the auditorium. Guides are provided to show visitors over the huge building
(no charge). Splendid view from roof-observatory.
We may begin our visit to the Falls by entering Prospect Park
(PI. B, 4), 12 acres in extent, which adjoins the gorge close to the
American Fall. At ^Prospect Point, protected by an iron parapet, we
stand on the very brink of the Fall and see it dash on the rocks below.
. Hennepin^s View, a little to the right (N.), commands a good general
*View. Near the point is the SupermtendenVs Office, whence an
Inclined Railway (6 c.) and a Flight of Steps descend to the bottom
of the gorge and the dock of the ^Mald of the Mist' (p. 220).
Following the parkway to the left (W.) from Prospect Point, we
reach (3 min.) the Ooat Island Bridge (360 ft. long) , crossing the
right arm of the river, a little above the American Fall. It commands
a fine view of the * Upper Rapids. To the right are several little
rocky islets, including Averifs Rock, where an unfortunate man found
foothold for 18 hrs. before being swept over the fall by the impact
of a boat let out with ropes in an attempt to save him. The bridge
ends at Oreen Island (PI. B, 5), whence another short bridge crosses
to *Goat iBland (80 acres in extent). . Here we follow the path to
the right to (4 min.) *Luna Island (PL B, 5), a rocky islet between
the main American Fall and the *Centre Fall, named from the lunar
rainbows seen here at full moon. The continuation of the path
along the W. side of Goat Island leads in a minute or two more to
the Biddle Stairs (free) and the office where a guide and dress are
obtained for a descent to the *Cave of the Winds (PI. 'C. of W\, B 5;
fee $ 1 ; small gratuities expected).
Everyone should descend the stairs and follow the path along the
foot of the cliffs towards the base of the Centre Fall \ but only those of
strong nerves should attempt the trip through the Cave of the Winds,
which, however, is said to be safe and is often made by ladies. For those
who can stand it the experience is of the most exciting and pleasurable de-
scription. After passing over the gangways and bridges amid the rocks
and spray in front of the Centre Fall, we are conducted through the
*Cave of the Winds* behind it, where the choking, blinding, and deafen-
and spray in front of the Centre Fall, we are conducted through the
*Cave of the Winds* behind it, where the choking, blinding, and deafen-
ing tumult of wind and water defies description. The visitors grasp each
Canadian Rapids. NIAGARA FALLS. 45, Route, 219
other by the hand and sidle through on a narrow ledge, with a perpen-
dicular wall of rock within an inch of their noses and the mighty volume
of the fall at their backs.
Beyond theBiddle Stairs the path on Goat Island leads to
(4 min.) Porter's Bluff (PL A, 6J, overlooking the Horseshoe Fall,
the Canadian Rapids, and the gorge below the Falls. A staircase and
bridge descend hence to ♦♦Terrapin Rock (PL A, 6), on the edge of
the Horseshoe Falls, affording the best view of these from this side.
*The river here is evidently much deeper than the American branch,
and instead of bursting into foam where it quits the ledge, it bends sol-
idly over and falls in a continuous layer of the most vivid green. The
tint is not uniform-, but varied, long strips of deeper hue alternating with
bands of brighter colour . . . From ail this it is evident that beauty
is not absent from the Horseshoe Fall, but majesty is its chief attribute.
The plunge of the water is not wild, but deliberate, vast, and fascinating*
(Tyndatl). ■— A condemned warship sent over the Fall in 1829 drew 18ft.
of water, but passed without touching the ledge.
Our path next leads along the S. side of Goat Island to (7-^ min.)
the series of bridges leading to the •Tfcree Sister Islands (PL B , 5), which
afford the best view from this side of the imposing ♦Canadian BapidB
(PL A, B, 6), running at the rate of 30 M. an hour. The Third Sister
is adjoined by a smaller rock known as the Little Brother,
We may now return through the centre of Goat Island to (5 min.)
the bridge leading to the mainland, but those who have time should
follow the path to (4 min.) the 'Parting of the Waters' at the head
of Goat Island (PL 0, 6), where we obtain a good view of the broad
and quiet river above the cascades , with Grand Island (p. 221) in
the background. Thence the path leads back along the N. side of Goat
Island, affording a view of the American Rapids (PL B, 0, 6), to
(5-6 min.) the bridge.
We may now cross to the Canadian side of the river by the ♦Upper
Steel Arch Bridge (PL B , 4;, about 250 yds. below the American
Fall, erected in 1897-98 to take the place of the suspension-bridge
formerly at this spot. The main span, the largest of the kind in the
world , is 840 ft. long, while the flanking spans increase the total
length of the bridge to 1240 ft. It is 49 ft. wide. An electric
tramway crosses in the centre, and on each side are carriage-ways
and footpaths. The bridge is 195 ft. above the level of the water.
Bridge-toll 10 c, return 15 c, incL tramway-fare. — Just below
the bridge , on the American shore , is the mouth of the tunnel
described at p. 217. On the bank above is a group of mills and
factories, run by the power of a surface-canal.
On reaching the Canadian end of the bridge , we turn to the
left and reach (3 min.) the entrance to the *Qaeen Victoria Niagara
Falls Park (PL A, 4-6), which extends along the river for 21/2 M.
(electric railway, see pp. 215, 209). The park contains a good bronze
statue (by Dunbar) of Colonel Qzowski (1813-99), its chief promoter.
Splendid general views are obtained as we proceed of the Falls and
the gorge, especially from the (3 min.) ^Ramblers Bes^fPl. A^^ and
220 BouU 45. NIAGARA FALLS. TabU Rock.
(4 min.) *In8piration Point (PI. A, 4). To the right, 3-4 min. farther
on, are Picnic Grounds and a Restaurant; and in 3 min. more we reach
the entrance to the power-house of the Ontario Power Co. Just
beyond are the Table Rock House and ** Table Bock (PI. A, 5),
which affords an indescribably grand view of the Horseshoe Falls.
Beautiful rainbows are seen on the spray in the afternoon. The roar
of the water is deafening.
The name of Table Rock still adheres to this point, though the last
portion of the overhanging ledge that gave rise to it fell into the abyss
in 1860. — An elevator here affords an opportunity to those who wish to
go under the Falls (25 c., with dress 60 c.). This trip does not necessitate
the removal of clothing, but only the protection of oil'Skin suits. It has
lately been improved by the construction of a tunnel (800ft. long) and now
affords imposing 'Views of the Falls from behind and below.
Visitors with time to spare may extend their walk through the Park
above the Falls to (1 M.) *I)ufferin Islands (PL B, 6), enjoying the best
views of the Canadian Bapids (p. 219). No time need be wasted on the so-
called Burning Spring (adm. 60 c). — Fall* View Station of the Michigan
Central B. B. (PI. A, 6^ see p. 213), lies just outside the Park. — A road
diverging near Table Bock leads to Lundy*» Lane^ where a bloody but
somewhat indecisive struggle took place on July 25th, 1814, between the
Americans and the Anglo-Canadians. The latter, however, were left in
possession of the field, the Americans retiring on Fort Erie. A monument
has been erected to the Canadians who fell in the battle.
No one should omit to take the **Trip in the little steamer the
Maid of the Mist^ which starts near the foot of the Inclined Railway
descending from the end of Prospect Park (see p. 218), steams up
the river nearly to the foot of the Horseshoe Fall, and touches at a
wharf on the Canadian side (fee 50 e., incl. water-proof dress). The
**View it affords of the Falls is one of the best to be had; and the
trip is perfectly safe. Passengers may disembark on the Canadian
side (where an incline ascends to the National Park) and return by
any later trip of the steamer the same day.
The river and its banks below the bridge offer many points of
great interest. The Lower Rapids and the Whirlpool (p. 221) are
both seen to greatest advantage from the Canadian side.
From the N. end of the bridge we follow the road (electric railway,
see p. 215) descending along the edge of the cliff to (2 M.) the
♦Cantilever Bridge of the Michigan Central RaUroad (PI. B, 0, 1),
one of the first examples of this method of construction, completed
in 1883. It is entirely of steel and has a total length of 900 ft The
two cantilever arms, 395 ft. and 375 ft. long, are connected in the
centre by a fixed span of 125 ft. It is 245 ft. above the water. About
100 yds. below this bridge is the *Lower Steel Arch Bridge of the
Grand Trurik Railway (PI. B, 1), erected in 1897 on the site of the
former Railway Suspension Bridge (comp. p. 212), with a roadway
below the railroad track (toll 10 c, incl. return). The length of this
bridge, including approaches, is 1100 ft., half of which is absorbed
by the arch itself. The highest point is 226 ft. above the water. It
commands a fine view of the Whirlpool Rapids (p. 221), but the
view of the Falls is obstructed by the Cantilever Bridge,
*OOgI<
e
Whirlpool. NIAGARA FALLS. 45. Route. 221
A little below the Steel Arch Bridge is the entrance to the so-
called. Rapids Park, where we descend an Inclined Railway (50 c.)
to view the *Whirlpool Bapids, which in their own way are as
wondeiful as the Falls. The immense volume of water is here forced
to flow through so narrow a channel (300 ft.) that it actually as-
sumes a convex form, the centre of the river being 20 ft. higher
than the edges.
The impression of force is overwhelming. *The surges did not look
like the gigantic ripples on a river's course, as they, were, but like a
procession of ocean billows \ they rose far aloft in vast bulks of clear
green, and broke heavily into foam at the crest^ (Eovellt),
It was in an effort to swim down these Bapids that Capt. Webb lost
his life in 1888, but since then several persons have passed through them
safely in barrels. The old ^Haid of the Mist* was successfully piloted
through the Bapids to Lewiston in 1861. Blondin and others have crossed
the gorge above the Bapids on ropes of hemp or wire.
Near the wooden staircase ascending to the DeviTs Hole is a tablet
commemorating an Indian massacre in 1763.
We may now cross the railway-bridge and return along the American
side (tramway, see p. 215).
About 1 M. below the Railway Bridges is the ^Whirlpool (beyond
PI. B, 1), of which w^ get a good distant view from the top of the
cliff. The river here bends suddenly at right angles to its former
course, and the Whirlpool is occasioned by the full force of the cur-
rent impinging against the cliffs of the left bank. ^;U:'
^Here within the compass of a milt, those inland seas of the North,
Superior, Huron, Michigan, Erie, and the multitudes of smaller lakes, all
pour their floods, where they swirl in dreadful vortices, with resistless
undercurrents boiling beneath the surface of that mighty eddy. Abruptly
from this scene of secret power, so different from the thunderous splen-
dours of the cataract itself, rise lofty cliflb on every side, to a height of
two hundred feet, clothed from the water''s edge almost to their crests
\eith dark cedars. Noiselessly, so far as your senses perceive, the lakes
steal out of the whirlpool, then, drunk and wild, with brawling rapids,
roar away to Ontario through the narrow channel of the river. Awful as
the scene is, you stand so far above it that you do not know the half of
its terribleness : for those waters that look so smooth are great ridges and
rings, forced, by the impulse of the currents, twelve feet higher in the
centre than at the margin. Nothing can live there, and with what is
caught in its hold, the maelstrom plays for days, and whirls and tosses
round and round in its toils, with a sad maniacal patience* (HowelU).
The BivsB BoAD ascends along the American side of the river from
Goat Island Bridge to (1 M.) the Old French Landing, where La Salle and
Father Hennepin are said to have embarked in 16^78 after their portage
from Lewiston. Nearly opposite, on the Canadian shore, is tbe village of
Chippawa, where the Americans defeated the English in 1814. This is the
terminus of the Electric Railway (p. 215). About 1 M. farther up is the
Schlouer Landing^ fortified by the French in 1750 and by the English in
1761 . Navy Island, near the Canadian shore, gave shelter to the Insurgents
of the 'Mackenzie War* (1887-88 1 comp. p. 192). Just above is Grand Is-
land (26 sq. M. in area: comp. p. 216 ; Bedell Ho., a popular summer-hotel,
$ 2-3), where Mi\jor Noah in 1820 proposed to found the city of Ararat, as
a universal refuge for the Jews. Opposide Grand Island, on the American
shore, 5M. above the Falls, is the mouth of tbe Cayuga, where La Salle
launched the *Griffon', the first vessel to navigate the Great Lakes (1679).
The Observation Trains of tbe N.Y.C.B.B. between Niagara Falls and
(7 M.) Letpiston (return fare 25 c.) afford admirable * Views ^ the left) of
the gorge of the Niagara (see B. 43 a). Digitized by GOOQ IC
222 Route 46, OWEN SOUND. From Toronto
About 8 M. to the N.E. of Niagara Falls is the RwrvaHon of the
Tusearora Indians (baskets, etc., for sale).
From Niagara to Buffalo^ see p. 209 ; to Lewiston^ Niagara-on-fhe-Lake^
and Toronto^ see B. 43 a; to Hamilton^ see B. 43 b ; to Quemtton^ see p. 300 ; to
Detroii^ see B. 44.
46. From Toronto to Owen Sound and Fort William.
677 M. Canadian Pacific Bailwat to (122 M.) (horn Sound in 4-6 hrs.
(fare $3.65; parlor-car 50 c.); Stbambb thence to (555 M.) Fort Wilttcm
in 45 hrs. (fare $ 17.50, incl. meals and stateroom ; through-fare from Toronto
to Fort William $21.15, from MontreaJ $28.45).
This forms part of the so-called 'Lake Roate^ of the Canadian Pacific
Bailway; and tickets from Eastern points to Fort William or points farther
to the W. are available either by this route or by railway (B. 48). Trav-
ellers who are not pressed for time are strongly advised to prefer the
*Lake Boute', as they miss comparatively little of interest on the rail-
way between Montreal and Fort William and gain an opportunity to see
something of the scenery of the Great Lakes, the Sault-Ste-Marie Oanal, etc.
The 0. P. B. steamers, leaving Owen Sound on Tues., Thurs., A Sat., are
among the finest vessels for inland navigation in the world, affording
excellent accommodation, service, and cuisine. The season of navigation
lasts from about May Ist to Oct. 1st; and in summer the water of the
lakes is generally smooth. — In compliance with the laws of Ontario, no
wines or spirits are sold on the steamers.
Toronto^ see p. 190. The train (boat-express at 1.50 p.m.) passes
(2 M.) Parkdale (p. 205) and (5 M.) Toronto Junction (p. 205) and
runs towards the N.W. At (9 M.) Weston (430 ft.) the G. T. R. Une
to Port Huron diverges to the left (R. 42 a), and at (35 M.) Cardwelt
Junction we intersect the 0. T. R. line from Hamilton to Allandale
(p. 210). We now traverse the district of the Caledon Mts. , a low
range running N. and S. 46 M. MelvUle Junction, — 49 M. Orange-
viUe (1395 ft.; Queen's, iV/21 ^o,^- Restaurant), a town of (1901)
2511 inhab., with mills, factories, and a grain and timber trade, is
the junction of branch-lines to (73 M.) Wingham (2392 inhab. ; U. S.
Agent), Teeswater (74 M.), Flora (34 M.), etc.
Elora (Commercial Hotel, $1V2), a village with (1901) 1187 inhab., lies
on the Qramd River, which here cuts its way through a picturesque lime-
stone ravine, with walls 1(X) ft. high. Elora contains a small Museum illus-
trating the natural history and geology of the district. This was the land
of the Attiwandaroni or Neutral Indians, interposed between the Hurons
and the Iroquois.
Beyond Orangeville the train crosses a fertile and well-tiUed
plateau (1600-1700 ft. above the sea). Numerous lakes are passed,
often affording good trout-fishing. At (76 M.) Dundalk (1700 ft)
we reach the highest point of the line and begin to descend. Near
(87 M.) Flesherton (1557 ft.) are the *Eugenia Falls. 93 M. Mark-
dale (1357 ft.) ; 109 M. Chatsworth (944 ft). Beyond (115 M.) Rock-
ford (913 ft.) we come in sight of Georgian Bay, to which we de-
scend rapidly.
122 M. Owen Sound (586 ft-, Patterson Ho,, $2-272; King"$
Royal, $ 2-3 j Seldon's, $ 2-2V2 J Queen\ $ 1-1 V2; ^ai^. Restaurant ;
V* 8, Agent), a rising Uttle lake-port with (1901) 7497 inhab. and a
to Fort WiUiam. LAKE HURON. 46, Route. 223
well-sheltered harbour, lies at the mouth of the Sydenham River, at
the head of Owen Sound, an inlet on the S. shore of Georgian Bay, It
enjoys some reputation as a summer-resort owing to its pretty scenery
[IngaUs and other waterfalls, etc.) and its facilities for boating, bath-
ing, fishing, and shooting. Good quarries and brick-fields occur, and
^ various industries are successfully carried on. Among the principal
buildings are the High School, the Town Hall, and the Court House.
Fkom Owbn Sound to Sadlt-Stk-Mabis bt thb "Sobtr Chanmbl, 485 M.
Steamers of the Norihem NavigaHon Co.^ starting from ColUngwood (p. 198)
on Tues., Thors., A Sat, leave Owen Sound about 11 p.m., on the arrival
of the evening-express from Toronto, and ran to the », through Georgian
Bay and the ^North Channer (between the mainland and Manitoulin Island),
calling at many points on the N. shore of Lake Huron. The voyage takes
about 2Vs days, and ample time is generally allowed for landing at the
various ports. The steamers and their accommodation are good, and the
trip is healthful and enjoyable in summer (fare $ 10, return-fare $ 18). —
The Tues. boat runs due K. thorough Georgian Bay (p. 198), while the
others run via Parry Sound and the N. Shore ports (comp. pp. 198, 204).
The other points called at hve Killameg (196 M. from Collingwood; Hotel,
3 lV«-2), at the foot of the La aoche Mt$. (755-1180 ft), on the N. shore
of Georgian Bay, at the beginning of the North Channel; Manitowaning
(226 M. ; The Manitou, $ 1-1 Vt)} nearly opposite, on Grand Manitoulin Ji-
2af>d (p. 224), where Indian souvenirs, etc., may be purchased (good trout-
on me island; apanun laver [pa in.j, on tne mainland (^see p. Axi)\ sser-
pent River (341 M.): Algoma Mills (p. 233; 349 M.); Blind River (357 M.);
Theualon (p. 233; 413 M.); Bruce (p. 233; 425 M.); and Hiawatha Camp,
The steamer calls at the Canadian town of 8ault-8te-Marie before cros-
sing to its terminus on the American side (p. 224). In July and Aug. the
steamers go on from the Soo to Mackinac (p. 224; fare $14; round trip,
in 6 days, $25).
Steamers of the same company ply from Collingwood, Penetang (p. 198),
and Midland (p. 199), through the 'Inside Channel\ to Parry Sound, French
River, Byng Inlet, Killamey, etc. (comp. pp. 198-200).
Lake Huron (580 ft above the sea) , across the waters of which
the next part of our route leads (steamers, see p. 222), is 250 M. long
and 50-200 M. wide, with an area of 23,800 sq. M. Its greatest depth
is 1700 ft The Saugeen Peninsula, jutting out from the S., and the
Grand Manitoulin Island, on the N. , approach within 20 M. of each
other and divide the lak6 into two portions, of which that to the E. is
known as Georgian Bay (130 M. long and 60 M. wide). The W. shore
of Lake Huron is low and little varied in outline (with the exception
of the deep Saginaw Bay) , but the N. and E. coasts are rocky and
indented, often showing bold limestone cliffs. The lake contains an
enormous number of islands (estimated as high as 36,000) , espe-
cially along the E. shore of Georgian Bay (Parry Archipelago) and
in the *North Channel', between ManitouHn and the mainland. The
E. and N. shores of the lake belong to Canada, the W. to Michigan.
The name Huron (from hure, *wild boar') was applied by the French
to the Wyandotte Indians on account of their manner of dressing their
hair. *Huronian', as applied to a series of primary or crystalline rocks,
was originally used to describe the beds of this series overlying the
Lauientian formations on the N. shore of Lakes Huron and Superior,
224 Route 46. SAULT-STE-MARIE.
On leaving Owen Sound, the 0. P. R. steamer runs along the W.
side of Georgian Bay (p. 223), steering a little to the W. of N.
To the left lies the Saugeen Peninsula, jutting out into the lake for
about 50 M. and forming geologically the termination of the so-called
^Niagara E8carpment\ running from Niagara Falls to Cape Hurd.
When clear of the peninsula, the steamer turns to the left (W.) and
enters Lake Huron proper hy the channel mentioned above, between
Cape Hurd J the extremity of the Saugeen Peninsula, on the left, and
the Grand Manitoulin on the right t
The Grand Manitoulin leland, which lies to the N. of our course
as we cross Lake Huron , is 80 M. long and 30 M. wide across it8
widest part It is inhabited by a number of Ojibwa Indians, and
along its N. coast are several Tillages frequented as summer-resorts
(comp. p. 223). Our steamer passes it in the night, and we con-
sequently see little of it
Early next morning the steamer threads the narrow Detour Pas-
sage , between Michigan on the left and Drummond Island on the
right, and enters the beautiful *St, Mary's River (65 M.), connecting
Lake Huron with Lake Superior. Farther on 8t, Joseph IslaruL lies
to the right, with first 4he mainland and then Encampment Island to
the left We next pass the rapids between Sugar Island (1,) and the
mainland (r.) , traverse the expansion of the river called JBear Lake
or Lake Qeorge (9 M. long and 3-4 M. wide), and finally turn to the
left (W.) round the N. end of Sugar Island and enter the Sault-Ste-
Marie Canal, by which we avoid the 8t, Mary Rapids (r.).
397 M. ^275 M. from Owen Sound) Sanlt-Ste-Marie (615 ft;
Iroquois, $^-5; Park, $3-5; Manitou, $2; Rail, Restaurant), a
thriving little city with (1900) 10,538 inhab., originated in a French
mission established here in 1641. Its position on the Soo Canal
and at the convergence of several railways gives it considerable
commercial importance. Among the chief buildings are the Custom.
House (PI. 1), the Post Office (PI. 2), the City HaU (PI. 4), the
Carnegie Library (PI. 6), and the Court House (PI. 5). To the W.
lies Fort Brady, a U. S. military post (comp. Plan). Frequent steam-
ferries cross to the Canadian Sanlt-Ste-Marie (International Hotel,
$2-3; Algonquin, from $2, well spoken of^ CornwaU, Leland,
$ 11/2; t7. S, Com, Agent), a town with (1901) 7169 inhab., a huge
pulp-mill, chemical works , a Bessemer steel plant, electric smel-
ters, and large iron-ore docks.
One of the things to *do* at the Soo is to shoot the Rapid* in a canoe
guided by an Indian , an excitine but reasonably safe experience (enquire
at hotels). There is good trout-fishing above the Bapids and in the neigh-
nd "' ' " " ' *" * " '
bouring streams, and the Indians catch whitefish with scoop-nets below
the Bapids. — The island of Maekinae (see p. 228 and Baedeker'* United
Statee) is easily reached from the Soo. — From Sault-Ste-Marie to DuhUh
t The channel is actually narrowed down to about 5 Mr by the islets
lying oflfCape Hurd and the 8. end of Manitoulin. edbyGoO^Ic
yGoogk
yGoogk
LAKE SUPERIOR. 46. Route, 225
by railway and by steamer along tbe S. shore of Lake Superior, see Baedeker^i
OMted States.
Tbe old *Bt. Kary^s or Boo Ship Canal was constructed by tbe State
of Micbigan in 1858-5 and was 1800 yds. long, 100 ft. wide, and 12 ft. deep,
witb two locks, eacb 850 ft. long. Tbe present canal, constructed by tbe
U. S. Government, is 2330 yds. long, 108 ft. wide at its narrowest part (tbe
movable dam), and 16 ft deep. Its original lock is 515 ft. long, 80 ft wide,
and 89V2 ft- deep. It has a lift of 18 ft. and can hold two large lake-steam-
ers. Tbe total cost of tbe canal enlargement was $2,150,000 (430,0002.).
Even this, however, proved inadequate for tbe increasing traffic, and an
enormous new lock, on the site of tbe two old locks of 1855, was opened
in 1896, having a length of 800 ft., a breadth of 100 ft., an.d a depth of
431/4 ft. It can accommodate vessels drawing 20 ft. The cost of this new
lock and the accompanying enlargement of the canal was about $ 5,000.000
fl,C0O,00Or). Tbe lock can be filled or emptied in 7 minutes. — A Ship
Canal has also been constructed on the Canadian side of the river, to avoid
the discriminating tolls levied on vessels bound for Canadian ports. This
canal, which was completed in 1895, is about 2/3 M. long and includes a
lock 900 ft. long and 60 ft. wide, with 20 ft. of water on tbe sUl. Its total
cost was about $3,750,000. A second Canadian canal has been projected
to be 1400 ft. long and 80 ft. wide.
The annual tonnage of the vessels passing through tbe Soo Canals is
about twice as great as that passing through the Suez Canal. In 1905
the canals were passed by 21,679 vessels, with an aggregate tonni^e of
36,617,699 tons fSuez Canal in the same year, 4115 vessels of 18,308,498 tons
gross, 13,132,694 tons net). The proportion of the freight tonnage carried
by Canadian vessels is about 15 per cent. The traffic of 1906 was considerably
greater than that of 1905.
The passage of the locks at Sault-Ste-Marie takes fuUy an hour,
which passengers may spend in visiting the town. In emerging from
the canal we pass under the fine railway-bridge of the C.P.R. line
tiom Sudbury to Sault-Ste-Marie (see p. 233) and a movahle dam
forming a road-bridge. A little farther on, between Point Iroquois to
the left (U. S.) and Gros Gap to the right (Canada), we leave the
St. Mary's River and enter Whitefiah Ba , forming the S.E. end of
Lake Superior.
Lake Superior (600 ft. above the sea), the highest of the Great
Lakes, is the largest body of fresh water on the globe, being 380 M.
long and 160 M. in extreme width, with an area of 31,600 sq. M.
The mean depth is about 900 ft The lake receives the waters
of 200 streams and contains numerous islands, chiefly near its
E. and W. ends. Its coast-line (ca. 1500 M.) is irregular and general-
ly rock-bound, some of its cliffs and hiUs being very picturesque.
The water is singularly clear and bitterly cold even at midsum-
mer. Lake Superior whiteflsh (Coregonus clupeiformis) are excellent
eating, and the traveller should not miss the opportunity to taste
them furnished by the steamer's bill-of-fare. Other varieties of fish
are also abundant.
Whitepah Pointy to the left, with its lighthouse, marks the end of
Whiteflsh Bay and the beginning of the lake proper, across which we
now hold a N.W. course for over 200 M., soon passing out of sight
of land. The flrst land we come in sight of next morning is Isle
Boyale^ a rugged, rock-bound island, 50 M. long, lying near the N. W.
Babdbkeb's Canada. 3rd Edit. 15
226 Routed?. CHARLOTTE.
shore of the lake. It is supposed to contain vast deposits of copper,
and is called at weekly by a steamer from Duluth. Our course bends
to the left (W.) and passes between this island and the mainland.
To the right rises the fine promontory of *Thander Cape, a huge
volcanic mass rising 1300 ft. above the lake. Near its foot is the
tiny Silver Islet^ which yielded between three and four million dollars
worth of the precious metal before being drowned out by the waters of
the lake. Passing Thunder Point, we enter Thunder Bay, the mouth
of which, to the S. (1.), is closed by PU Island, The steamer generally
calls at Port Arthur (p. 236), if the state of the water allows, before
entering the Kammiitikwia River and reaching its terminus at —
555 M. (280 M. ftom Sault-Ste-Marie) Fort WiUiam (see p. 236),
where we join the C. P. R. for Manitoba, the N.W. Territories, and
British Columbia.
The N. shore of Lake Superior, of which we see so little from the
steamer, is very picturesque at places but is not accessible except by small
boat. Almost the only settlement on it between 8ault-Ste*Marie and Nipigon
is Michipicoten^ a post of the Hudson Bay Ck). Deposits of gold-bearing
ore have been discovered at Xoite Wawa^ about 5 M. from the Michipicotm
River. Miehipieotm Jslcmd lies about 86 M. farther to the W. Comp. also
p. 234.
Steamers ply regularly from Fort William to Duhtth (see Baedeker't
United States), skirting the N.W. coast of Lake Superior.
47. From Toronto to Montreal by Steamer.
The St. Lawrence fiiver and the Thousand lelandB.
389 M. Mail Stbamsb of the Richelieu A Ontario NavigaHon Co. daily,
leaying Toronto at 3 p.m. and reaching Montreal at 6.30 p.m. on the
following day (fare $ 10, meals extra). This is the line described in the
text. — Another steamer of the same company, starting from Hamilton (p. 209)
at 4.80 a.m. on Tues., Thurs., & Sat., leaves Toronto at 4.80 p.m. and
reaches Montreal at 12.30 p.m. on Thurs., Sat., A Mon. (fare $8.75. from
Toronto $ 8 \ meals extra). This steamer skirts the N. shore of Lake On-
tario to Kingston (p. 227), calling at Port Darling (for Bownumville, p. 188),
Port Hope (p. 189), Cobourg (p. 189), Brighton, Trenton Q). 189), Belleville
(p. 189), Northport, Picton (p. 189), and Cressy. Beyond mngston it follows
the Canadian shore to Broekville (p. 229). whence its course is practically
identical >Vith that described below. ~ As the sail through Lake Ontario
offers no special attraction, many travellers prefer to leave Toronto by
the evening train of the O.T.R. (about 9 p.m.) and Join the steamer at
(178 M.) Kingston, which the boat leaves about 6 a.m. (through-fare as
above $ fare from Kingston to Montreal $ b.^). This, however, involves
leaving the sleeping-car at a very early hour (2.20 a.m.). Passengers who
make the St. Lawrence trip from American soil may join the steamer
at Charlotte (p. 227) or at Clayton (see p. 228, and comp. BtudAer^s United
States). — In the reverse direction the steamers leave Montreal at 2.15 p.m.
and Kingston at 5 p.m., reaching. Toronto at 6.30 a.m. Passengers may,
however, take the G.T.R. train at 9 a.m. on the following morning, over-
taking the steamer at Preseott (p. 229; 11.20 a.m.), before the Thousand
Islands are reached.
Leaving Toronto (p. 1901, the mail steamer steers to the S.E.
across Lake Ontario (p. 2081 and makes its first si
Digitized by
KINGSTON. 47, Route. 227
96 M. (11 p.m.) CharlotU (European Ho., Latta Ho., $2), a
small lake-port in the State of Nev York, connected by a short rail-
way with (7 M.) Rochester (see Bctedeker's United States'),
The steamer now heads to the N.W. and crosses the lake to —
185 M. (6 a.m.) Kingston (275 ft.; *British American, $2-4;
Randolph, $2; Iroquois, $1-2; Anglo - American, $1-1^/2; U.S.
Consul, Mr, H, D, Van Sant), the 'Limestone City', a prosperous place
with (1901) 17,061 inhab., finely situated on the Cataraqui River j at
the point where the 8t, Lawrenct leaves Lake Ontario, and making
a brave and imposing show with its grey stone batteries and Martello
towers. It contains locomotive-works and other factories, and much
of the produce brought down from the Upper Lakes is here trans-
shipped to barges for carriage to Montreal. It is also the outlet for
the traffic of the Rideau Canal (p. 183).
Kingston plays a role of some importance in the history of Canada.
Count de Frontenac, Governor of Canada, established Fori Frontenae at this
point in 1683 and fntrnsted it to the care of the Chevalier de la Salle, who
here built the first vessel to navigate Lake Ontario (p. 208). The settle-
ment was soon afterwards distroyed by the Iroquois, hut was restored by
Frontenac in 1695, since which time it has been the key of the Upper
St. Lawrence. The name Kingston was given to it by United Empire
Loyalists after the American Revolution. During the war of 1812 Kingston
was the rendezvous and arsenal of the naval force on Lake Ontario. From
1841 to 1844 it was the seat of the Canadian Government.
A small steamer plies regularly from Kingston to (15 M.) Cape Vincent
in New York State (see Baedeker's United Siatee). — Steamer Route to Ottawa,
see p. 188.
Kingston is the seat of the Univbrsitt op Queen's College, one
of the leading universities of Canada, attended by about 1000 students,
some of whom are women. — Here is also the Royal Military
College, the *Woolwich Academy* of Canada, with 80 cadets. —
Fort Henry, begun in 1812, is the strongest in the Dominion after
those of Quebec and Halifax, but could offer no effective resistance
to modern ordnance. It is not garrisoned. — The THe du Pont Bar-
racks contain a battery of artillery. — Among the other large build-
ings are the Provincial Penitentiary, the Lunatic Asylum, the City
Hall, the Court House, and the Post Office, At the main entrance
of the City Park is a bronze Statue of Sir* J. A. Macdonald, by Wade
(a replioa of that at Montreal, p. 133).
The St. Lawrence Biver, which we have now reached, has a
length, measured from its farthest source to the E. end of the island
of Anticosti (p. 3), of 2100 M. and drains an area of 530,000 sq. M.
Its upper portions are, however, known as the St, Louis, the St. Mary^s
(p. 224), the St, Clair or Detroit (p. 206), and the Niagara (p. 216) ;
and the name usually attaches only to the stream as fin^y issuing from
Lake Ontario and draining the Great Lakes, which between that lake
and the Pointe de Monte (p. 4) is about 500 M. long. It pours more
fresh water into the ocean than any other river except the Amazon.
In its upper course its width is 1-7 M., while below Quebec it ex-
pands to 20-30 M. The river is nayigable for large ocean-^vesaelMo
16*^ d
228 BouU 47, ALEXANDRIA BAY. From Toronto
Montreal, and for river-steamers (with the aid of canals to avoid the ra-
pids) all the way to the Great Lakes. During 4-5 months all navi-
gation is stopped by ice. *The whole history of Canada is intimately
connected with this great river, by means of which pioneers starting
from Quebec or Montreal had overrun a great part of the interior of
the continent before the settlers of the Atlantic coast had crossed the
Appalachians' (G. M. BawBon),
Reference may be made to *Tbe St. Lawrence Basin and its Border
Lands', by S. E. Dawson (London, 1905), and to 'The St. Lawrence Biver',
by Q. W. Browne (1906).
On leaving Kingston our steamer almost at once begins to traverse
the expansion of the St. Lawrence known as the *Lake of the Thou-
sand Islands, which is 40 M. long and 4-7 M. wide and contains
about 1700 islands, big and little. Many of these islands are favourite
summer-resorts, with hotels and boarding-houses, while others are
private property, with the country-houses of rich Americans and
Canadians. The voyage through them is picturesque, and many of
the islands are illuminated at night. Our course at first lies between
Wolft or Long Island (r.) and Howe Island (1.).
210 M. (r.; 7.20 a.m.) Clayton (flu6 fcard, $2-21/2; IzaaJc Wal-
ton, $2-2^/2; Herald Ho,, $iV2"^)» * "village and summer-resort
with (1900) 1913 inhab., is the terminus of the Rome, Watertown, &
Ogdensburg R.B. from (108 M.) Vtica (comp. Baedeker^s United
Stcctes"). Opposite is the large Ormdstone Island, behind which, on
the Canadian shore, lies Oanaru)que.
Oananoque (Oananoqtte Itm, $ 272-4 1 International, $2), a town with
(1901) 3526 inhab., affords pleasant headquarters for those who wish to
explore the Thousand Isles at leisure. It is not called at by our boat,
but a smaller steamer makes regular trips among the islands. — Gordon
Island, a little below Gananoque, has been transformed into a public park.
213 M. {l^ Bound Island, with the large Hotel Frontenae ($5).
216 M. (1.) Thonsand Islands Park (Columbian, $3-4: Murray
Hill, $3-4; Grand View Park, $2-21/2} New Welksley, $2-2V2),
a great Methodist resort, at the W. end of Wellesley Island,
226 M. (r.; 8 a.m.) Alexandria Bay {Crossmon, $ 4-5; Thousand
Isle Ho., $4-5; Edgewood, $21/2-4; Marsden Ho,, $21/2-31/2), the
chief resort among the Thousand Islands, lies on the American
shore, opposite Wellesley Island, and counts pretty scenery and good
boating and fishing among its attractions. Among the most promi-
nent -villas on the neighbouring islets are those of the late George
M, Pullman (d. 1897) and H, H. Warner (of the *Safe Cure'). —
Westminster Park (Hotel Westminster, $ 2-4) lies at the E.. end
of Wellesley Island, opposite Alexandria Bay, and is reached by
ferry.
Farther on we pass the Summerland Islets (1.) and the long Gre-
nadier Island (1.), leave the Lake of the Thousand Isles, and reach
the open river, here about 2 M. vdde. For some distance now the
voyage is monotonous and uninteresting. ^ j
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
to Montreal. CORNWALL. 47, Route, 229
261 M. (1.) BrockviUe (Strathcona, $21/2-372; Revere, $2-21/2?
St. Lawrence Hall, $11/2-2; Orand Central, $11/2; U. S. Consul,
Mr. E. 8. Hotchkiss), named after Gen. Brock (p. 209), is a Canadian
city with (1901) 8940inhab., numerous manufactures, and good
fishing. This port is not invariably called at. See pp. 182, 188.
266 M. (1.) Prescott (Daniels Ho., $2-3; U. S. Consul, Mr. Martin
R. Sackett), with (1901) 3019 inhabitants. Passengers are here
transferred from the lake-steamer to the river-steamer. — Opposite
lies —
Ogdensbnrg (Seymour Ho., $2-3; Windsor, Norman, $2), a
city at the mouth of the OawegatchU, with (1900) 12,633 inhab. and
a trade in grain. [The steamer does not call here.] — About 1 l^T.
below Prescott, on the Canadian shore, are the ruins of a stone Wind-
mill, in which a body of ^Patriots', under Von Schultz, a Polish exile,
maintained themselves for a few days against the Canadian forces in
1837. — To the right, on the American shore, the buildings of
the Point Airy New York State Asylum for the Insane are conspi-
cuous. — Chimney Island, 4 M. farther on, has the remains of a
French fortification.
About 9 M. below Ogdensbnrg we pass through the OaUops or
Galoups Bapidt, 71/2 M. long, which are followed, 41/2 M. lower, by
the Bapide Plat. Neither of these is very noticeable, though each is
avoided by a canal (Canadian side) in going upstream. Between the
two rapids we pass tiie narrowest point in the river (500 ft.). Numer-
ous islands. On the left bank lies Morrisburg (St. Lawrence Hall,
About 36 M. beyond Prescott we enter the *Long Sault Bapids,
between the Canadian shore and Long Sault Island. The rapids are
9 M. long and are tumultuous enough to give a slight suggestion
of danger to the process of ^shooting' them. They are avoided in
ascending by the Cornwall Canal, 11 1/2 M. long. Part of the water
of these rapids is to be deflected into a great power-canal.
314 M. (L; 1 p.m.) Cornwall (Bossmore Ho., Balmoral, Du-
quette, $11/2-2; U. 8., Agent), a manufacturing town of (1901)
6704 Inhab., at the foot of the Long Sault Rapids, is a station on
the New York & Ottawa Railway, which crosses the St. Lawrence
here (comp. p. 182). The Cornwall Lacrosse Club is one of the best
in Canada. — The boundary between the United States and Canada
bends away from the river here, and the Indian village of St. Begis,
almost opposite Cornwall, is in the Province of Quebec. The Adiron-
dack Mts. (p. 13) are now visible to the right.
The steamer now steers a^oss the river to Stanley Island (Algon-
quin Hotel), near the American shore. — Below this point we
traverse the expansion of the river named Lake St, Francis, 28 M.
long and 6-7 M. wide. Both banks are now in Quebec.
At (346 M.) Coteau Landing the river is crossed by the fine
iron bridge of the Grand Trunk Railway. Opposite Coteau is Valley-
230 Bouted7. LACHINE.
field (p. 16). [Stanley Island and Cotean Landing may be omitted
if the steamer is late.] We now enter a series of rapids "which follow
each other at short intervals, with a combined length of about 11 M. :
Coteau Rapid , Cedar Rapid, Split Rock Rapid , and the ^Cascades,
These are avoided, in going upstream, by the Soulanges Canal^ 14 M.
long, with four locks (lockage 82^2 ^0- ^^^ l^gQ Roman Catholic
churches of the villages that line the banks are now very conspicuous.
359 M. Beauhamois (1976 inhab. in 1901), at the foot of this
series of rapids, lies opposite the mouths of the two westernmost
arms of the Ottawa River, which here enter the St. Lawrence, enclos-
ing the island ofPerrot (p. 185). To the left lies Ste, Anne (p. 185).
^Neither of these points is touched at. — The Lake of 8t, Louiiy
which we now traverse, is 12-15 M. long.
On leaving Lake St. Louis we pass (375 M.) Laohine (Harvey
Ho,, $lV2-2), a pleasant little tovm with (1901) 5561 inhab., fre-
quented in summer for rowing and sailing. The name seems to have
been given to it in 1669 in derision of those of La Sailers men who
had deserted and returned to the point on the Island of Montreal,
whence, three or four months before, they had set out to find a route
to *China' (comp. Parkman's *La Salle ; and the Discovery of the
Great West'). Near the head of the aqueduct stands the house built
by La Salle. In 1689 Lachine was captured and destroyed by the
Iroquois, who put all the inhabitants to death, many of them at the
stake. It is believed that 200 persons lost their lives on this fatal
night. Opposite lies Caughnawaga (p. 47).
The famed ^Lachine Baplds, the shortest (3 M.) but most vio-
lent Qf all, form an exciting and dramatic close to our voyage. The
rapids begin just below the fine bridge of the Canadian Pacific Rail-
way (p. 47). The Lachine Canal, for the use of vessels going up-
stream, is 8Y2 ^* lo^S ai^d ^as ^^6 locks, affording a rise of 45 ft.
Soon after leaving the rapids we pass under the ^Victoria Jubilee
Bridge (p. 137). To the left lies —
389 M. Montreal (p. 125).
48. From Montreal to Fort Arthur and Fort William.
996 M. Canadian Paci'fic Railway to Fort William in S2 hra. (fares
$ 29.56, $ 22.40; sleeper $ 6; tourist-sleeper $8). The toarist-cars are quite
comfortable in travelling from W. to £., but in the reverse direction they
are apt to be filled with emigrants, cooking their own food. The Pulman
cars are reserved for holders of first-class tickets.
This line forms part of the great Transcontinental Railway route of
the Canadian Pacific Railway, the only railway corporation which crosses
the entire American Continent from E. to W., a distance, from Ha^fax
(p. 50) to Vimcouver (p. 284), of 3662 M. (6V2 days; fare $92.50, or, for pass-
engers booked through from Europe, $ 77.50: sleeper $22, tourist-car $ 11).
The distance from Montreal to Vancouver is 2904 H., accomplished in about
4 days (fare $77.75 or $62.40; sleeper $18, tourist-car $9). ILondon is
thus brought within 1(^11 days of Vancouver and thre^ weeks^ of Japan.]
Digitized by VjOOQIC
PEMBROKE. 48. Route. 231
The ^Imperial Limited* leaves Montreal every morning (9.40 a.m.), and the
^Pacific Express" every evening (9.40 p.m.), and sleeping-cars run through
to Vancouver without change. In addition to these two daily trains the
^Over Seas Limited* leaves Quebec immediately after the arrival of the
G. P. R. steamer and runs through to Vancouver, connecting there with the
G.P.B. steamer for Japan and China. Thus passengers can travel under
G. P. B. management from Liverpool to Hongkong with only two changes.
Holders of through sleeping-car tickets to Vancouver or Mission Junction
(p. 284) from any point to the E. of Winnipeg will be furnished, on appli-
cation to the porter, with checks for 'stopover* at Winnipeg, Banff, Laggail,
Field, Glacier, Bevelstoke, Sicamous Junction, or North Bend. Good meals
are provided on dining-cars (D. $ 1, B. «fe L. a la carte). In excellency of
rolling-stock and road-bed, in punctuality of service, in the comfort of its
sleeping-cars, and in the courtesy of its employees, the G.P.B. stands very
high among American railways.
Travellers for pleasure, who have plenty of time at their disposal, are
advised to go from Montreal to Winnipeg vi& Ottawa, Toronto, and the
steamer-route described in B. 46, as there is comparaUvely little of interest
on the direct railway journey. G.P.B. tickets from Montreal to Winnipeg
and all points to the W. of it are available by either route. From Win-
nipeg to Banff the railway runs through a prairie-region of wheat-fields
and cattle-ranches (comp. p. 251); while the last 600 M., from Banff to Van-
couver, display a grandeur and variety of scenery such as is seen, on so
ample a scale, on no oUier railway in the world (comp. BB. 52, 06).
The 'Annotated Time Table* of the G.P.B., supplied gratis to passen-
gers on application (interleaved, if preferred), is the handiest and most
practical publication of the kind known to the Editor.
For the G.P.B. steamship line to Japtm^ see p. 285.
From Monireal (Windsor St. Station) to (112 M.) Ottawa^ see
R. 34 a. The train tben runs at first towards the S.W., soon leaving the
Ottawa^ with its log-legions. At (144 M.) Carleton Junction (Station
Hotel, with restaurant, $ 1 1/2), on the Mississippi Biver^ our line turns
to the right,(N.W.), while the line to BrockvUle (see p. 182) diverges
to the left (S.E.). The town of Carleton Place has large saw-mills
and railway- workshops. Pop. (1901) 4069. Lake Mississippi^ 21/2 M.
tf the S.W., contains bass and pike. — 151 M. Almonte^ with thriving
woollen -mills and (1901) 3023 inhab.; 160 M. Pakenham, At
(168 M.) Amprior we connect with the Grand Trunk Railway (see
p. 203).
. For the next 150 M. we follow the S. (right) bank of the Ottawa,
which forms the boundary between Quebec (N. bank) and Ontario all
the way from Lake Timiskaming (p. 239) to a point near its mouth.
This part of the valley is inhabited by Highland, English, and Ger-
man settlers, who gain a livelihood by farming and the timber-in-
dustry. Good fishing, for maskinonge, trout, and bass, is afforded by
the Ottawa itself and by its tributaries. 173 M. Sand Pointy a sum-
mer-resort. — 186 M. Renfrew (3163 inhab. in 1901), the junction
of lines to (23 M.) EganviUe and to Sharbot Lake (p. 187) and (104 M.)
Kingston ^. 227), is also a station on the Parry Sound Railway
(p. 203). A large creamery at Renfrew produces about 2000 lbs. of
butter per day. We now cut off a bend of the river, enclosing the
little Mttsk Bat Lakes between it and the railway.
221 M. Pembroke (Copeland House, $2-272), a^^ industrious little
town of (1901) 6166 inhab., with saw-mills and factories, is the chief
232 Route 48. MATTAWA. From Montreal
place in the npper Ottawa Valley. It lies on the expansion of the
river called AUumette Lake^ opposite the UU des AUumettes, A little
lower down are Lake Cotdonge, with Fort Cotdonge on its N. bank,
Calumet Island, and the *Calumet Falls,
Samuel de Champlain^ the *Father of New France', succeeded in
ascending the Ottawa Valley as far aa the Isle des AUumettes in 1618.
Here he discovered that his guide Vignau was an impostor, who had
never been farther up the river than this point. The Algonquin (Ottawa)
Indians whom he found here were friendly, but he was unable to secure
their help in pushing his way westwards to Lake Nipi$$ing (jp. 283). Oomp.
Parbnan^t ^Pioneers of France*.
The river is navigable for some distance above and below Pembroke,
which is an excellent centre for trout-fishers. The scenery of the *Nar-
rows, at the head of Lake AUumette, and of the so-called *Deep River^
higher up, is very fine.
Beyond Pembroke the valley contracts and hills rise on either
side. The district is still very thinly settled. The railway cuttings
for many miles to the W. of this point show excellent sections of
the Laurentian formations. The rocks shown *are for the most part
highly characteristic red, gray, and dark-banded gneisses j felspathic
and homblendic, and frequently garnetiferons and micaceous. There
are also some large bands of gray and white crystalline limestone*
(Selwyn). — 243 M. Chalk River (Rail. Restaurant), a railway divi-
sional station ; 252 M. Bass Lake-, 271 M. RocUiffe, 281 M. BUselt
and (294 M.) Deux Rivihres (Western Hotel) are excellent points for
trout-Ashing. The latter is 10 M. from the N.E. comer of Algonquin
Park (p. 204). Picturesque scenery.
315 M. Mattawa (565 ft. ; Mattawa Hotel, $ 1), a town with
(1901) 1400 inhab., at the confluence of the Ottawa and the McOtawa^
was formerly a fur-trading post of the Hudson Bay Co. and is now
a distributing point for a large lumbering-district and a favourite
resort of sportsmen and anglers (comp. p. Ivi). The name is an 1^-
dian word, meaning *The Forks'.
Guides, canoes, fishing-tackle, ammunition, and supplies may be ob-
tained here by those who wish to shoot or fish in the vicinity. The game
includes black bear, deer, wolves, lynx, wild-cat, wolverine, and wood-
grouse. H oose and caribou also occur. Excellent fishing for bass and trout
may be obtained in the Mattawa River and the innumerable other small
streams and lakes in which the district abounds. Oomp. the pamphlet on
*Fishing and Shooting' issued gratuitously by the O.P.E.
From Mattawa to Timiskamino, 39 M., railway in 2V2 hrs. (fare $ 1.56).
This railway runs to the foot (S. end) of Lake Timiekaming (p. 289), and
the scenery along the route is very picturesque. — From (37 M.) iSpawa
Junction a branch-line runs to (9 H.) Kipawa, on the lake of that name. —
39 H. Timiekaming, and steamers thence to points on the lake, see p. 289.
The nearest point of Algonquin Park (p. 204) is about 12 M. to the S.
of Mattawa.
Beyond Mattawa the train leaves the Ottawa and runs to the W.
through a wild district of lakes and streams. 341 M. Bonfield was
the point originally fixed on as the E. terminus of the transconti-
nental railway, but on the work being transferred firom the Govjem-
ment to the Canadian Pacific Co. Montreal was selected instead.
356 M. Nipissing Junction (see p. 201).
Digitized by VjOOQIC
to Port Arthur, SUDBURY. 48, BouU. 233
360 M. Korth Bay (660 ft.; Pacific Hotd, Queen'i, from $ 2,
both indifferent; Bail. Restaurant; U. 8. Agent), a bright little town
with (1901) 2530 inhab., lies on the N.E. bank of Lake Nipissing
(see below). It is the terminas of the G. T. R. line to the Muskoka
District and Toronto described in R. 43, and of the line to the Te-
magami Region, described in R. 49. A small steamer plies to
various points on Lake Nipissing (see below). Information as to
shooting and fishing may be obtained from Mr, 8. A. Huntington,
Fishery Overseer and Game Warden at North Bay.
Lake Nipisiing (640 ft. above the sea), 55 H. long and 10-20 M. wide,
is very irregular in shape, with numerous promontories and islands. The
first white man to see it was the R^collet friar Le Caran in 1614, and
Ghamplain reached it on his second Ottawa expedition in the following
year. Steamers ply regularly on the lake, and boats for rowing and
sailing can be hired. Its waters abound in maskinonge, pike, bass,
and pickerel; and good shooting and fishing may be obtained in the sur-
rounding country. North Bay has thus acquired some reputation as a
centre for sportsmen. The Mpissings, a tribe of Algonquin Indians en-
countered on this lake, were known by the French as the '8orcerers\
on account of their reputed intercourse with demons and their skill in
the black art.
About 3 H. to the E. of North Bay (good road) lies Trout Lake (De-
laney^s Hotel, $ 1V2-2), 11 M. long and 1 M. wide, the headwater of the
Mattawa. It is a favourite resort, well stocked with bass, grey trout, and
speckled trout. The lake also possesses a wonderful echo.
Lake Nipissing is drained by the French River, which issues from it
on the S.W., and flows into Lake Huron after a course of about ^ M. The
name commemorates the fact that this was the route by which the early
French explorers first reached Lake Huron (see p. 228), being debarred by
the hostility of the Indians from crossing Lake Ontario. This route, vi&
the Ottawa, Lake Nipissing, and the French River, formed the regular ap-
proach to the Upper Lakes for 150 years. The scenery of the French
Biver is highly picturesque.
The train skirts the N. shore of Lake Nipissing, passing a reser-
vation of Nipissing Indians at (375 M.) Meadowside and crossing
the Sturgeon at (384 M.) Sturgeon Falls. 409 M. Hagar; 428 M.
Wanapitei (775ft.); 433 M. Romford, — 440 M. Sudbury (850 ft.;
Hotel; Bail, Restaurant; U, 8. Agent), with its smelting-works and
(1901) 2027 inhab., lies in the midst of rich deposits of nickeliferous
pyrrhotite, containing on an average about 2^4 per cent of nickel.
The amount of the ore produced in 1904 was 203,388 tons, yielding
nickel to the -value of $1,516,747. Copper, cobalt, and platinum
are also procured from the ore. Sudbury is the starting-point of a
line to Sault-Ste-Marie (see below).
Fboh Sudburt to Sault-Ste-Maeib, 182 M., in 5V2 hrs. (fares $ 5.50,
$ 4.90; sleeper $1.60). Through-carriages run by this route from E. points
to St. Paul, H inneapolis, and Duluth. — Most of the intermediate stations
are unimportant. 7l H. Spanish is the station for (3 H.) Spanish Biver,
a lumbering-port on the N. bank of Lake Huron. Our line reaches Lake
Huron at (95 M.) Algoma, another timber- trading place. The long island
of Manitoulin is seen on the other side of the Iforth Clumnei, 4-6 M. distant
fcomp. p. 224). 182 H. Thessalon iq,ueen% $ li/s*, 1205 inhab.) ; 142 M. Bruce^
with deserted copper-mines. The Desharats Islands^ in Lake Huron, opposite
(151 M.) Desbarats (Hiawatha, $ 2; Kokomis Lodge, $ 1), have become a
popular resort. 164 H. £koba. — 179 H. SauU-SU-Marie, Ontario (comm.
Digitized by VjOOQIc
234 Route 48. HERON BAY. From Montreal
?. 2^4). The train then crosses the SauU River and Canal by a fine bridge,
M. long, and reaches —
182 M. Sault-Ste-Karie, Michigan (see p. 224).
Beyond Sudbury our train runs towards the N.W., through a
sparsely-peopled forest-clad region, seamed with small rivers and
dotted with innumerable lakes. For about 70 M. the rocks passed
over belong to the Huronian system. To the right, about 3 M. from
Sudbury, is the Murray Nickel and Copper Mine. At (468 M.)
Larchwood (868 ft.) we cross the Vermilion River. The oval de-
pressions visible in the surface of the sandstone rock here are locally
known as ^Nanabozhoo's Snowshoe Tracks'. As we near (464 M.)
Onaping (1050 ft.) a gUmpse of the high falls (150 ft.) of the Ver-
milion River is obtained to the right. To the left, beyond Onaping,
lies Windy Lake or Lake Makoping. 475 M. Cartier (1365 ft.) is a
divisional station. Beyond (496 M.) Pogamasing (1165 ft.) we cross
the Spanish River j which here runs between cliffs of red hornblende-
granite, 300 ft. high. 629 M. Bisco lies on a lake of the same name.
The line now follows the 'height of land', or watershed, between
Hudson Bay and the Great Lakes. At (661 M.) Wom^m River we
cross the stream of that name, and beyond (578 M.) Ridout the
Apishkaugama. From (569 M.) Wakami canoe-trips are made by
the Mississauga River to Lake Huron. 612 M. Chapleau (RaiL
Restaurant), a divisional station, on Lake Kabequashesing, to the N.
of the watershed ; 642 M. Wayland, with iron-mines. — At (672 M.)
Missanahie (1105 ft.), where we cross Dog Lake, a very short portage
connects the streams flov^ing towards the N. with those descending
to Lake Superior.
This was an important point for the fur-trade long before the railway
was constructed, the Miehipicoten River, connecting it with Lake Su-
perior, and the ifoose River, running K. to James Bay, forming a natural
highway between the Great Lakes and Hudson Bay (comp. p. 226). Large
quantities of furs are still brought hither from the K. by the Moose
River. The Miehipicoten affords good fishing. — Some gold mines are
operated a little to the S. of Missanabie.
Beyond Missanabie the construction of the line was attended with
considerable difficulties, overcome by skilful engineering. Numerous
rock-cuttings are passed. The extensive yards at (744 M.) White
River (Rail. Restaurant) are for resting cattle on their way to the E.
We then follow the White River (left) for some distance, and cross
it beyond (760 M.) Bremner. To the right lies Round Lake. Farther
on we cross the Big Pic River by a lofty iron bridge and reach (800 M.)
Heron Bay (708 ft.), at the N.E. comer of Lake Superior (see
p. 225).
For the next 200 M. the railway follows the N. bank of Lake
Superior more or less closely. The scenery is very striking, and the
traveller should rise early in order to enjoy it. At many points the
line runs on ledges cut out in the side of the fine granite cliffs,
which border the shore and often rise to a height of hundreds of feet.
Numerous tunnels and bridges are necessary, andr^he httcdness of
Digitized by VjOOQIC
to Port Arthur. NIPIGON. 48. Route. 235
these ancient and finely colonred rocks immensely increased the en-
gineering difficulties of this part of the railway. The lake is not always
in sight, hut numerous views of its vast blue expanse are enjoyed.
Innumerable streams flow into its waters from the N., nearly all of
them affording good sport to the angler. Trails to these rivers, see
p. lii. — 808 M. Peniruiula (inn) ; 819 M. Coldwell. Farther on we
cross the Little Pic Rwer and reach (826 M.) Middleton. — 844 M.
Jack FUh, at the mouth of the river of the same name and on a fine
sweeping bay, is an excellent fishing-station, both for river-trout and
for the whitefish (p. 226), sturgeon, and lake-trout of Lake Superior
itself. A little farther on rises Ogilvie^t Butte^ one of the most striking
of the numerous basaltic protuberances which interrupt the granite
formations of the shore. — At (863 M.) Schreiber (RaU. Restaurant)
information as to fishing and guides may be obtained from the
Divisional Superintendent or the Divisional Engineer. At (877 M.)
Rosiport (646 ft.) we reach the beautiful *Nipigon Bay^ cut off from
the main body of the lake by a chain of islands. 894 M. Gravel is
another good angling-resort.
926 M. Nipigon (Taylor's Hotel, $2) lies at the mouth of the
Nipigon Btucr, the largest river flowing into Lake Superior and one
of the most famous trouting-streams in Canada. Adjacent lies Red
Rockj a post of the Hudson Bay Co. The railway crosses the river
here by a bridge 780 ft. long and 86 ft. high.
The l^ipigon issues from Lake ^Nipigon (see below), to the N. of Lake
" ■ 'OM. (- - — -
Superior, and in its course of about 40 H. descends 300 ft. and forms three
small lakes. It abounds in speckled trout, which not unfrequently reach
a size of 5-8 lbs. One of the favourite resorts of fishermen is Camp
Alexander, about 12 M. from Nipigon Station, with which it is connected
in the fishing-season (June 16th-Sept. SOth) hy a steam-launch.
*Lake Nipigon (900 ft. above the sea), measuring about 70 M. by 50 H.
in its longest diameters, is very irregular in shape and contains numerous
islands. It is well stocked with whitefish and trout and is a veritahle
paradise for anglers. The scenery is very fine.
Anglers who mean to fish in the ^Nipigon region are advised to apply
beforehand to the Hudson Bay Go.'s Manager at Red Bock and inform him
of the size of the party and of what is wanted in the shape of guides,
canoes (50 c. per day), camp-outfit, and the like. The guides are generally
Indians (fee % 2-2Va per dAy). One canoe and two Indians will suffice
for two anglers, and the total expense for each person need not exceed
$4 per day. Black flies and mosquitoes are troublesome, especially in
the early part of the season, and protections against their bites are dis-
pensable.
About 31/2 M. beyond Nipigon the train rounds the cliff known
from its colour as Red Rock. To the left we ^njoy a good view across
the bay , with the islands of La Grange j l$le Verte^ and St. Jgnace.
We then intersect the neck of the promontory jutting out between
Nipigon Bay and Black Bay , skirt the latter , and strike direct for
Port Arthur, crossing the Black Sturgeon River. Black Bay is bounded
on the W. by the bold Thunder Cape (p. 226), sheltering Thunder
Bay, of which we obtain pleasant glimpses. 944 M. Wolf; 969 M.
Pearl; 977 M. Mackenzie. r^r^^rrl^
Digitized by VjOOQIc
236 Route 48. FORT WILLIAM.
992 M. Port Arthur (610 ft. ; Mariaggi, $2-7; Algomay $2-3;
Rail, Rtstawani), a small lake-port, with (1901) 3214 inhab. (now
7600J, lies on the W. shore of Thunder Bay in a district rich in gold
and silver. It is the lake-terminus of the Canadian Northern Railway,
which here possesses the largest grain-elevator in the world, com-
prising two metal-clad working-houses and two tile storage-annexes,
with a total capacity of 7,000,000 bushels. Boating and Ashing are
obtained in the bay, which, however, is subject to squalls. Steamers
run hence to Duluth (see Baedeker's United 8tate$), An electric
tramway connects Port Arthur with Fort William (see below).
Faoh Post Abthub to Gunflint, 86 M., Canadian NortMm Bailway in
7-8 hrs. This line passes (8 T/L.) Fort William and runs towards the 8.W.
20 M. Stanley^ the nearest station to the (3 M.) KakaUka Fall* (p. 242). 40 H.
Silvw Mountain; 56 M. 8and Lak€; 71 H. North Lake. — About 6 M. from
the present terminus are the Ounjlint Mine* in the Iron Range^ an important
iron-producing district in Minnesota (comp. Baedeker^e United States).
995 M. Fort William (607 ft; Empire, *Kaministiquia Hotel,
$ 2-3; Avenue, $ 2; U. 8. Agent), the lake-port of the W. section
of the C. P. R. and the terminus of the E. division, lies on the wide
and deep Kamvnistikwia, just above its mouth in Lake Superior.
Pop. (1901) 3997 (now 7500). This is the point at which passengers
who have crossed Lakes Huron and Superior by steamer (see R. 46)
rejoin the railway. The wharf is connected with the railway-station
by a lofty foot-bridge. Adjacent are several immense Grain Elevators,
Large quantities of grain from Manitoba and the North- West are
shipped here for carriage on the Great Lakes. The picturesque
situation of Fort William, in conjunction with its boating, fishing,
and shooting facilities, attracts many summer- visitors. Adjacent
rises the abrupt Mcickay Mountain (see below).
A small post was established here by Du Luth towards the close of
the 17th century, but was afterwards abandoned. In 1801 it became a
port of the Hudson Bay Oo., and the old fort is still preserved as an en-
gine-house. The Kaministikwia and its connecting waters formed a canoe-
route by which the Indians of the North- West brought their furs to the
traders. It was by this route that Col. Wolseley transported his forces to
Fort Oarry in 1870 (see p. 246).
Maekay Mt. (see above) affords a fine view of the lake, town, river, and
environs. To ascend it we may take the Port Arthur electric car for some
distance, then follow the C. P. R. tracks, and ferry across the river, near
a big lumber-yard, to the French Mission. A little farther up the river
a rough path diverges to the left through wood and ascends over swamps
and logs to (2 hrs.) a chapel near the top of the mountain.
Eitiier Port Arthur or Fort William forms good geological head-
quarters for the exploration of the Nipigon (Cambrian), Animike (copper-
bearing Cambrian), and Huronian rocks.
At Fort William we change from Eastern to Central Time (1 hr.
slower; comp. p. xii). To the W. of this point the 0. P. B. uses the
24-hour system in its time-tables, counting 1 p.m. as 13 o'clock.
yGoogk
237
49. From North Bay to New Liskeard. Temagami
Eeg^on.
118 M. Tbmiskaiiino and Nobthsbn Ontabio Railway in 41/2-6 brs.
(fare 3 3.40} parlor-car 60 c). From Toronto via North Bay to (340 M.)
New Liskeard through- train (G, T.R.) in 8 hra. (fare $10.25; sleeper $3).
This new line, completed in 1£05, opens up a district full of attractions
for the sportsman and the lover of natural beauty and of great importance
for its mineral wealth. The railway belongs to the Government of Ontario,
and is being pushed forward to join the new Grand Trunk Pacific Bail-
way (p. 307), while it will ultimately be extended to James Bay (p. 166). This
railway was a new experiment in America and owing to the accidental
discovery of silverore on the right of way itself (see pp. 288, 239), it
has already proved very successful. The growth of agricultural settle-
ment in the district to the N. of New Liskeard bids fair to make it a
permanent source of income for the province. The line is wdl built and
well ballasted.
To the tourist the chief source of interest in this new district is the
Temagami Porest Reserve, a great tract of 59C0 sq. H., set aside in 1900
from cultivation and intended to preserve the pristine beauty of the primseval
forest which surrounds Lake Temagami, to protect the great game (moose
and caribou), and to be a provincial park for Ontario. — Lake Timitkaming
(p. 239) is also very striking.
North Bay J see p. 233. Our train runs back on the 0. P. R. track
along Lake Nipissing (see p. 233) to (1 M.) North Bay Junction^
where the new Temiskamino and Nobthe&n Ontasio Bailwat
diverges to the left (N.). The line ascends rapidly through a bleak
and rock-strewn tract, but we enjoy many interesting glimpses of
the hundreds of lakes with which the whole region is dotted. The
stations are as yet often names only. — 9 M. Woodland; 14 M.
Widdifield; 27 M. Moose Lake; 32 M. Jocko (on a lake of that name,
to the right); 38 M. Oshome'; 42 M. Otter. At (48 M.) Bushnell the
line enters the Temagami Reserve (see above). Near (60 M.) Boyce
we pass Boyce Lake (1.) and a series of smaller lakes. 56 M. Red-
water ^ between two lakes; 59 M, Rabbit Creek; 64 M. Doherty;
65 M. Roxborough.
72 M. Temagami (Bonnoco Hotel, $ 2-3) lies at the head of the
N.W. arm of Lake Tem&gami or Tamagami(^Deep Water'; 880 ft.
above the sea), a large sheet of water, containing 1200 islands and
said to possess, with its ramifying arms, no less than •SOOO M. of
coast-line. The scenery resembles that of the Muskoka Begion
(p. 201), but is on a bolder and more striking scale, while the
cottages with which the Muskoka Lakes are lined are almost wholly
lacking. The government of Ontario does not sell the islands but
leases them at $ 10 per acre. The banks are clad with thick woods,
patrolled and protected by numerous rangers. Guides ($ 3-31/2
per day, with canoe) and equipment for fishing and shooting may
be obtained at Temagami. Moose and caribou abound in the woods,
• while the lake teems with fish (bass, trout, etc.).
From Temagami a small steamer (fare 76 c, return-fare $ 1.25) plies in
about 2hr8. to the Temagami Inn ($ 2V2, $ 16-21 a week), picturesquely situated
on Temagami Island, Soon after leaving theBonnoco wharf, we passMt. Caribou
on the left and then steer through a rather narrow channel, which presently
238 Route 49. COBALT. From North Bay
widena oat into a lake>like expansion, containing a number of islanda and
surrounded by well-wooded shores. The contrast between the soft poplars
and the white birch on the left and the sombre foliage of the pmes on
the right is striking. As we advance the shores become bolder and hi^er.
After rounding Point Maiagama (boarding-house) we pass between Bear
Island (r. ; see below) and Temagami Island (1.) and reach the dock after
another quick turn to the left. The Inn is built of pine-logs in a most
picturesque style, with great open log fire-places in the entrance-hall and
dining-rooms. From Temagami Inn another steamer plies (18 M. ; 2 hrs. ;
fare 76 c, return -fare $1.26) to the Lady Evelyn Hotel, picturesquely
situated near the head of Lake Temagami. After leaving the inn the boat
turns to the right between well -wooded islands and passes (r.) Bear Itland
(Mrs. Tumer*s Boarding House), with the Bangers' Station and a Half-Breed
village, under the protection of a quaint Roman Catholic church, with a
curious belfry. As we advance the E. shore (r.) rises into high rocky cliffs.
After passing through the narrows and leaving Grannie's Bay on the left,
we approach Devils Mt. (1680ft.; r.), the highest point on the lake. The
boat stops at KetcaycUn Camp (for boys ; Mr. Gregg Clarke), on Devil's Island^
and then passes the mouth of JSandy Inlet (r. ; 6 M.), whence a short portage
leads to Ko-Ko-Ko Lake. A little farther on we reach the Lady Evelyn Hotel
($ 2-3), a bark-covered building on Deer Island facing the B. ana backed
by beautiful groves of birch and poplar. [It takes its name from the fact
that it lies near the beginning of the canoe and portage route, vi& Diamond
Lake and the Lady Evelyn Fails ^ to Lady Eveljrn Lake, another beautiful
sheet of water, with excellent scenery, named after a daughter of the
Marquis of Lansdowne, formerly Go vemor-Gteneral of Canada.] The rocks
in front of the hotel are carpeted with trailing arbutus. — Good deer-shooting
and fishing (small-mouthed black bass, speckled trout, lake-trout, pike, and
dor^ are obtained near the hotel, and the canoeist may make it the starting-
point for many interesting expeditions in all directions.
While the lake is exceedingly deep in places, the navigation is by no
means easy for the steamers which ply on the lake, as frequent reefs (^buttes*)
run out from the islands and there are many shoals. — In the S. arm is
Can^ Temagami^ an excellent summer -camp for boys, managed by Mr.
Creighton of Upper Canada College (p. 197).
Beyond Temagami the train passes through a clearing 400 feet
wide, which is Intended to lessen the danger of forest-fires and ex-
tends along the line for many miles. We cross (74 M.) Net Lake,
pass several other small lakes, and skirt the shores of Rib Lake (r. ;
1017 ft.) for abont 6 M., enjoying another succession of pictur-
esque scenes. 84 M. Rib Lake Station f 90 M. Johnson. We have
now left the Forest Reserve and entered upon the mining - district
(see below), in which we make our first stop at (94 M.) Latehford,
on Bay Lake (1.), where the Edison Co. has a mine. Boats meet
the trains here for points on the Montreal River. The railway is
here traversing the so-called ^OilUes Limit', a wooded tract, the
mineral deposits on which have been reserved by the Ontario
Government and are to be developed at the expense of the Prov-
ince, under the supervision of Professor W. G. Miller, Provincial
Geologist. Beyond Latchford the railway skirts the Montreal River
(views to the right), passing (99 M.) OiUies and (100 M.) Cassidy.
103 M. Cobalt (1000 ft. ; Prospect Hotel, Cobalt Ho,, $272-3), .
the centre of the mining boom, with about 2000 inhab., is situated
on the side of a steep rocky hill, rising from a small lake of the
same name (r.). It is most interesting as a specimen of armodern
to New LUkeard, LAKE TIMISKAMING. 49. Route. 239
mining-camp, reproducing the conditions described by Bret Harte
and Artemus Ward, but without the lawless element. The fact that
no liquor-licenses have been granted has helped to prevent disorder.
There is a large and picturesque floating population drawn from all
parts of America and from every class in the community. The houses
are chiefly of unpainted wood. The sanitary arrangements are so
unsatisfactory that many of the citizens prefer to live at Halleybury
(see below).
Cobalt was named by Professor Miller from the plentiful deposit of
cobalt found in the district. This ore is associated with silver and with the
so-called ^kuyfer-nicker ore. The silver is also associated with smaltite,
and arsenic is so abundant that the water is popularly supposed to be
_-, . . « , . « lofth ■ "• " •
poisonous. As a rule the finds occur in fissures of the rock, which in some
cases have been followed over 200 ft. below the surface. Since the latter
part of 1904 ore has been shipped fi:om Cobalt to the value of $ 2,250,000.
Among the prindpal mines are the La Rose (seen to the right, beyond the
lake), the workings of which reach a depth of 300 ft., and the Tretheuoey and
UniverHty^ the shafts of which have been sunk about 100 ft. Another
6-iDch seam of silver ore was discovered in Aug., 1906, just across the
lake from the Cobalt railway-station. The coun^ for miles around bears
evidence of the assiduity of the prospector, trenches 5-10 ft. deep being cut
in the soil and rock in all directions. The neighbouring camps and towns
are connected with Cobalt by telephone-lines, the wires of which serve as
guides through the otherwise tracUess bush.
The large building on the hill (1.) above the station is used as
a Theatre ^ Mining Exchange. The Bank of Commercej in Main St. ,
is a neat portable building brought from British Columbia. The
reading-room of the Young Men's Christian Association^ just above
the station, on the right, is used also for free lectures by the govern-
ment mineralogists to prospectors and others interested in the dis-
covery of ores.
Beyond Cobalt the railway passes between hills of conglomerate
(1.) and banded slate (r.) and reaches (108 M.) Haileyhury (Attorney
Ho., Vendome, $ 2, both reported very fair), well situated on Lake
Timiskaming (see below). It has a population of 2000 and has
been growing rapidly owing to the mining boom in Cobalt. The
business part of the town was, however, burned down in Aug.,
1906. The tourist may leave the train here for the lake-steamer
(p. 240), or he may go on to —
113 M. Hew Liskeard (Grand Union Ho., $2; pop. 3000), the
present terminus of the railway. At either of these places the trav-
eller will find it better to send his baggage on with the^ hotel-
vehicles and walk down the steep hill to the hotel,
*Lake Timiskaming or Temiskaming (680 ft.) forms a strong
contrast to the octopus-like Lake Temagami, consisting of a sheet of
water 76 M. long and only 7 M. across at its widest point, while its
shores are indented by few bays. It is, in fact, an expansion of the
Ottawa River (p. 184), abounding in black bass and surrounded by
game -haunted forests. The scenery is sombre,' weird, and im-
pressive. Since the early French days, Lake Timiskaming has
240 Route 49. TIMISKAMING.
formed part of tlie great water-route to the Hudson Bay territory
(comp. p. 234).
The steamers of tbe Kobth Timiskamiho Nayiqatioh Co., plying to the
foot of the lake (73 H .), leave Kew Liskeard every week-day at 8 a.m. and
Haileybury at 9 a.m. The better boat CMeteor') starts on Hon., Wed., and
Frid. (fares to Timiskaming 3 2.20, $ 1.70; return-fare 3 3.70). The steamer
passes several islands , and at the narrowest part of the lake we see (1.)
Fort Timiskaminff, a post of the Hudson Bay Ck>. — Timiskaming (Bellevue
Ho., $ 2V2)) at the extreme S. end of the lake, is a great centre for fisher-
men. Hence to Maltawa by railway, see p. 232.
On Sat. the ^Meteor' leaves New Liskeard for North TimiskanUnff^ at the
head of the lake, returning at 4 p.m. on Sun., and regaining Kew Liskeard
at 6 p.m.
The wild district between Lake Timiskaming and Hudson Bay, with
its forests, lakes, and streams, is becoming better known owing to the
influx of settlers and prospectors brought by the new railway and the
mining boom. It is also used as a hunting-ground by several sporting
clubs of New Yorkers and Pennsylvanians. A good account of the region
is given by Mr. William Ogilvie in the Annual Report of the Department
of the Interior for 1890. About 76 M. to the N. is LtOe AbUibi, to the N.W.
of which is an as yet nameless lake, 12 M. long, discovered in 1905. Large
gold finds are reported from Lake Opa*iHka^ a little to the 8. of Lake Abitibi.
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Yll. WESTERN AND NORTH-WESTERN PROVINCES.
Route Page
50. From Fort William and Port Arthur to Winnipeg . . 242
a. Vial Canadian Pacific Railway 242
Lake of the Woods 248
b. yi4 Canadian Northern Railway 244
51. Winnipeg 245
Environs of Winnipeg 249
From Winnipeg to St. Paul 249
From Winnipeg to Selkirk and Winnipeg Beaeli . 250
Lake 'V^^nipeg 250
From Winnipeg to Teulon 250
From Winnipeg to Souris . 260
From Winnipeg to Oak Point 250
52. From Winnipeg to Banff 250
From Portage-la-Prairie to Yorkton 261
From Portage-la-Prairie to Delta. Lake Manitoba 251
From Brandon to Estevan 261
From Brandon to Morris 252
From Brandon to Miniota 252
From Brandon to Lenore 252
Nortb-West Territories of Canada 258
From Regina to Prince Albert 258
From Regina to Areola 253
From Moose Jaw to North Portal 264
Missouri C!oteau ^64
From Calgary to Edmonton 267
From Calgary to Maeleod 257
Rocky Mountains Park of Canada 259
53. From Winnipeg to Edmonton via Canadian Northern
Railway 262
From Dauphin to Prince Albert 263
From Edmonton to the Arctic Ocean 264
54. From Dunmore Junction to Lethbridge and Eootenay
Landing 266
From Lethbridge to Sweet Grass (Coutts) .... 266
From Stirling to Cardston 266
55. From Banff to Vancouver 268
The Lakes in the Clouds 269
Mt. Lefroy. Mt. Victoria. Mt. Temple . . . . 269, 270
Excursions from Field 271
Selkirk Range 275
From Sicamous Junction to Okanagan Landing . 2B0
Cariboo Region 282
From Spencers Bridge to Nicola 282
Fraser River 282
Coast Range 282
New Westminster 284
From Vancouver to Steveston 287
From Vancouver to Seattle 287
56. From Revelstoke to Arrowhead, Robson, and Nelson.
Kootenay Region 287
Basoikbb^s Canada. 3rd Edit. 16
242
Route
a. From Revelstoke to Arrowhead
b. From Arrowhead to Robson (West Rohson) . ,
From Bobson to Bossland
From Robson (West Robson) to Midway . . .
c. From Robson to Nelson
From Nelson to Northport and Spokane . . .
From Nakusp to Sandon
Page
. 287
. 287
. 288
. 288
. 288
. . 289
. 289
57. From Vancouver to Victoria
From Victoria to Nanaimo and Wellington . .
From Victoria to Sidney
British Columbia. Vancouver Island . . . .
. 289
. 292
. . 292
. 292
50. From Fort William and Fort Arthur to Winnipeg.
a. Vi& Canadian Paoiflo Bailway.
427 M. Railway in 131/2-141/2 hrs. (fare $ 12.90; sleeper $3; berth in
tourist-car $ IVsi).
Fort WiUiam and Port Arthur, see p. 236. Passing West Fort
William^ the train leaves Lake Superior and enters a desolate rock-
strewn region, overgrown with rather scrubby timber. Few settlements
or attempts at cultivation are seen , but there is said to be better
land at some distance from the railway. Many lakes and rivers are
passed. — About 4 M. from (14 M.) MwriUo (946 ft.) are the fine
*Kakaheka Falls, 120 ft. high and 450ft. wide, formed by the
Kaministikwia. Murillo is also the station for the Bdbhit Mountain
silver-mining district. — Beyond (24 M.) Kaministikwia (1010 ft.)
we leave the river of that name and ascend along the Mattawan,
Names such as (34 M.) Finmark and (60 M.) Lvniko (1535 ft) Indicate
the presence of a Scandinavian element among the scanty settlers.
To the left, at (72 M.) 8avannt (Rail. Restaurant), may be seen
some barges abandoned here by Wolseley on his march to Fort Garry
(Winnipeg; comp. p. 236). Much difficulty was experienced in
making this part of the line from the 'muskegs', or morasses covered
over with soil and vegetation, that required to be filled in. — 85 M.
VTpsala; 90 M. Carlstadt; 113 M. English ,- 131 M. Bonheur; 149 M.
Ignace (1487 ft. ; Rail. Restaurant) , a divisional point. We now
follow the Wa^igoon Rivera which, with its chain of lakes, affords
good fishing. — 199 M. Wabigoon (Wabigoon Hotel, $1V2) is ^^
starting - point for the new Manitou Mining District, which lies to
the S. Small steamers run hence in summer to Rainy Lake (p. 244).
— At (212 M.) Dryden is an experimental farm belonging to the
Ontario Government. At (229 M.) Eagle are two pretty waterfalls,
one on each side of the railway. The whole district is characterized
by wild rocky scenery and numerous deep lakes. Beyond (270 M.)
Hawh the large Lake of the Woods (p. 2431 lies to the left.
KENORA. 60, Route, 243
294 M. Eenora, formerly called Rat Portag^{iQ^ ft. ; Billiard,
$2-3; King Edward, Commercial, $lV2-2, "^^^^ first-rate; V. 8.
Agent), a town with (1901) 5202 inhab., is finely situated on the
Lake of the Woods, at the point where its waters pour over a rocky
ledge into the Winnipeg, forming a picturesque * Waterfall 20 ft. high.
At present Kenora is mainly a saw and flour milling place and some-
what in the rough ; but with the erection of a good hotel and a few
other improvements it might be made a charming summer-resort.
The recent mining activity in the district (see below) has had con-
siderable effect on the growth of the town , and large reduction-
works have been erected. To see the Falls, we follow the railway to
the bridge and then turn to the right.
The *Lake of the Woods is a beautifal sheet of water, 65 M. long and
10-60 M. wide, stadded with islands and surrounded by green forests rising
at places in hills of considerable size. It was discovered by the French
explorers in 1660, and plays a prominent part in the story of the early
voyageun and eoureurs dd boit. The *portage% named from the colonies
of musk-rats, connected the lake with the Winnipeg River. A steam-ferry
plies several times daily from Kenora (round trip 25c) to Norman and
Keetoatin (see below), on the other side of the river. Small steamers and
steam-launches make numerous other excursions in summer ; and small boats
may be hired. The steamer 'Kenora' plies thrice weekly from Kenora to
Boucherville, whence railway and steamer run to Fort Frances (p. 244),
near Rair^/ Lake^ with which the Lake of the Woods is connected by Rainp
Rivet' (comp. p. 244). Extensive deposits of free milling gold have recently
been found near the Lake of the Woods, Bainy Lake, and the Seine River (an
affluent of the latter), and have attracted a considerable number of miners.
The annual output of gold is said to reach $ 10,000,000. The whole region
also abounds in excellent fishing and shooting, full particulars of which
may be learned at Kenora. The timber cut by the mills on the Lake of
the Woods amounts annually to at least 100,000,000 ft. — An interesting
canoe-trip may be made down the Winnipeg Biver to Lake Winnipeg (p. 260).
The train crosses the Winnipeg by a lofty open-work bridge (falls
to the right). 297 M. Keewatin (see above), with a large flour-mill
(capacity 1800 barrels per day), numerous saw-mills, and the
huge works of the Keewatin Power Co. Between this point and
(304 M.) Oitermnd we have two good opportunities of noticing the
junction of the Laurentian and Huronian systems.
Beyond (326 M.) Ingolf we leave Ontario and enter Manitoba
(p. 246). 346 M. Rennie; 366 M. Whitemouth, with lumber-mUls.
The country becomes more and more level and the trees more sparse,
until we fairly leave the forest region of the East and emerge on the
great prairies of the West. Beyond (892 M.) BeatisSjour the under-
lying rocks are concealed by alluvial deposits. — 406 M. East Selkirk,
with about 300 inhab., quarries of Galena limestone, an immigra-
tion-barrack (the old railway round-house), and a huge farm be-
longing to Sir W. C. Van Home. Omnibuses from Selkirk (p. 250)
meet all the trains.
The train now turns to the S., following the Red River, which it
crosses at (426 M.) St. Boniface (p. 249).
427 M. Wiimipeg, see R. 51.
Digitized by
16
Googk
244 Route 60. RAINY LAKK
b. VilL Canadian Korthepi Railway.
439 M. Canadian ITobthbsn Bailwat in 18 \aB. (fares as at p. 242). The
Canadian l^oribern Railway runs to the 8. of the Canadian Padfic Bailway
and more or less parallel with it.
Port Arthur aad (3 M.) Fort William, see p. 236. At (19 M.)
Stanley Junction the line to Ounflint (p. 236) diverges to the left.
45 M. Mattawin; 82 M. Kashahoiwe; 143 M. AUkokan (Rail.
Restaurant); 160 M. Banning; 181 M. Olenorchy; 200 M. Mine
Centre. A nnmber of small lakes are ^een to the left about this
part of the line.
231 M. Fort Frances, with (1901) 466 inhab., lies near the S.
end of Rainy Lake, a picturesque sheet of water about 60 M. in
length and connected by the Rainy River with the Lake of the
Woods (p. 243). A steamer plies hence thrice weekly to Boucher-
ville (connecting with Kenora, see p. 243), and another steamer
plies weekly to (16 M.) Jsherwood, on the Rainy River. Fort Frances
was an early post of the Hudson Bay Co.
The sturgeon of Rainy Lake are said to afford a lai^e proportion of
the world's supply of caviar.
Beyond Fort Frances the line continues to run towards the W.,
following roughly the course of the Rainy River (see above). 262 M.
Emo. Between (286 M.) Rainy River (Rail. Restaurant), with large
lumber-mills, and (257 M.) BeaudeUe the train crosses the Rainy
River and enters the United States (Minnesota). 309 M. Roosevelt.
322 M. Warroad, a recent but thriving little town with about
2000 inhab., lies at the S. end of the Lake of the Woods (f. 243),
at the point where the War Road River flows into it and forms
a good natural harbour, which has been improved by the U. S.
Government. Steamers ply hence to various points on the Lake of
the Woods, Rainy River, and Rainy Lake.
Beyond Warroad the line re-enters Canadian territory, running
for about 50 M. through the woods of East Manitoba, 342 M. Sprague ;
363 M. Vassar, Near (384 M.) Bedford we reach the valley of the
Red River, which we now descend all the way to Winnipeg. 391 M.
Marchandi 304 M. Qiroux ; 410 M. 8te. Anne, an old village ; 424 M.
Lorette. At (438 M.) St. Boniface (p. 249) we cross the Red River
and enter —
439 M. Winnipeg (see R. 51).
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245
51. Winnipeg.
Arrival. Canadian Padfie RaUvxxy Station (PI. G, 2), Main St., cor. of
Point Douglas Ave. ; Canadian Northern Station (PI. G, $, Main St.. cor. of
Water St. (new joint station for 0. IS. B. and Grand Trunk Pacific Railway
in progress on £. side of Main St., near Hudson Bay Co.'^s Stores, PL G, 3).
— Omnibuses of the Winnipeg Transfer Co. to hotels , 25 c. each person,
including a moderate quantity of luggage.
Hotels. *BoTAL Albxandba (PI. aj G, 2), at the station, in Main St.,
firom $ 4, B. from $ IY25 Qubbn's (PI. bi B, 3), cor. of Portage Ave. and
Main St., from $21/25 Empirm (PI. C5 G, 3), Main St., from $3: Mabiaggi
(PI. d ^ B, 2), cor. McDermot Ave. & Albert St., B. 3 2-5 ; Glarsndon (PI. e •, B, 3),
cor. Portage Ave. and Donald St., from $2^ Winnipbg (PI. f; G, 3), Main St.,
$ 2; Leland Hodsb (PL g; B, 2), opp. Gity Hall, $ 2\ Sktmoxjb (PL hj B, 2),
Maufket St., $ 1 ^ Bbunswick (PL i 5 C, 2), cor. Main St. and Bupert St., $ 172.
Kestaurants. Mariciggis (see above) ^ Fort Qarry Restaurant, Strathcona
Block 5 Criterion Restaurant, McDermot St.; restaurants at HieRMlway Stations.
Oabs. For cab-hiring purposes Winnipeg it divided into two Divisions,
the first comprising the central part of the city (incl. the above-named
railway -stations and hotels) and the second the district outside the first
and within the city limits. Per drive within a division, 1-2 pers. 26 c.,
3^ pers. 50c.} with two horses, 1-2 pers. 50c., each addit. pers. 26 c.
From any point in one division to any point in the other, 1-2 pers. 50 c,
with two horses 75c., each addit. pers. 25c. Per hour, 1-4 pers., 75c., with
two horses $1. Double fares from 10 p.m. to 6 a.m. One trunk and
hand-baggage for each pers. free. — One-Horse Carriage, without driver,
first hr. $1, each addit. hr. 75 c^ half-day $21/3, whole day(10hrs.) $4;
two-horse carr., $2, $1, $4, $7 (driver at the rate of $ 2 per day extra).
^ Saddle Horse^ $1, 50 c., $2, $3.
Eleetrio Tramways traverse the main streets and run to the suburbs (5 c. \
after 11 p.m. 10 c ).
Opera House, Notre Dame St. (PL B, 2).
Clubs. Manitoba Club (PL G, 3), Garry St. ; Commerdai Cluby Main St.
Post Office (PL B, 3), Portage Ave., between Fort and Garry Sts., open
8-19 a. e. 8 a.m. to 7 p.m.).
Consuls. United States, Mr. S. H. Shank, 366 Notre Dame St. ; German, M*.
W. Hespeler, Wardlow Ave., cor. of Nassau St. 5 French, Mr. H. d'Hellencourt.
Waghorn's Chide (monthly; 10 c.) will be found useful and convenient.
Winnipeg (755 ft.), the name of which is derived from the Indian
Ouinipigon (^muddy water^, is a brisk and prosperous city with
(1901) 42,430 inhab. (now about 90,000), situated at the confluence
of the Red River and the Asainiboine, In. the great level plain of the
former. It is the capital of the Province of Manitoba (see p. 246)
and owes its importance to the fact that it is the doorway and com-
mercial focus of the Canadian North-West , with its boundless pro-
spects of unexploited wealth. It has been called the ^Chicago of
Canada', and handles even more wheat than the United States city,
being the largest grain-market in the British Empire. The city covers
an area of 20 sq. M. and contains many substantial and even hand-
some hnildings. Its streets and boulevards are unusually wide and
well laid out; the most important are Main Street (Pi B, C, 1-3) and
Portage Avenue (PI. A, B, 3), for shops, and Broadway (PI. A-0, 3),
for private residences. It is dotted freely with churches and pos-
sesses 20 public schools and 300 acres of public parks. It will
repay the leisurely tourist to stop overnight here and visit the city
and its suburbs with some thoroughness; but the hurried traveller
246 Route 51. WINNIPEG. History.
may obtain a very fair idea of the chief sights in an hoar*8 drive, or
in one of the sight-seeing automobiles (fare 50 c. each).
Winnipeg is the most cosmopolitan city in^the W., being the
distributing point for emigrants from all the countries of Europe,
who arrive here by hundreds daily. The Canadian Government has
a fine ofiBce in the Canadian Pacific Railway Station for the inspection
of emigrants, whom it provides with free lodgings for a week and
assists in finding employment. The Winnipeg branch of the British
and Foreign Bible Society (483 Main St.) circulates the Bible in
43 different languages, and ten Icelandic periodicals are published
in Winnipeg and Selkirk (p. 260).
Winnipeg has a dry climate, claiming to enjoy 330 sunny days out
of the 365 days of the year, and is considered very healthy on the
whole. Its drinking water, however, has a bad reputation and should
be avoided.
The first Europeans to visit Manitoba were the Siettr de la Vermdtyei
and his sons, who in 1731 et seq. explored the district surrounding Lake
Winnipeg, and, among other setUements, esfablished the Fort Rouge (1738),
at or near the site of the present city of Winnipeg. Soon after came
the conquest of Canada by the British and the troubles of the Ameri-
can Bevolution, and the post was abandoned. The point between the
Red Biver and the Assiniboine was long known to the early fur-traders
OS *The Forks', but does not seem to have been permanently occupied till
about 1803, when the North- West Co. established Fort Gibraltar here.
The Hudson Bay Go. began to establish posts in the Red River district
in 1796. In 1812 came Lord Selkirk's attempt to colonize the Bed River
Valley (comp. p 250). His Highland settlers reached the centre of the
continent by way of Hudson Bay and the River Nelson, and established
themselves near Fort Gibraltar. The N.W. Co. regarded this as an illegal
intrusion , and a struggle ensued in which the property of the Selkirk
settlers was totally destroyed. In 1816 the Hudson Bay Co. attacked and
destroyed Fort Gibraltar, and in 1817 another collision resulted in the
death of Governor Semple, leader of the H. B. Co.'s party, and twenty of
his men. The two rival companies, however, amalgamated in 1820-21,
whereupon the Hudson Bay Ck). moved its headquarters to the Forks,
establishing Fort Qarry on part of the site of Winnipeg (see below). The
village of Winnipeg sprang up about i/a M. to the N., shortly before 1870.
In 1836 the company bought out Lord Selkirk for 26,000 i. In 1870, when
the Province of Manitoba was created and its occupation by the Dominion
Government was resisted by the Red River Rebellion under Louis Riel (p. 258),
Fort Garry, including Winnipeg, contained only 240 inhabitants. It was
at this time that Col. Wolseley made his famous march to Fort Garry
(comp. p. 236). In 1881 , when its name had been changed to Winnipeff^
the population was 7985, and by 1891, owing to the ope|iing of the O. P. B.
and other causes, this figure had been almost quadrupled. The assessed
valuation of the city is now about $85,000,000, and in 1901 it produced
manufactured articles to the value of $ 8,616.248. Its bank clearances in
1902 amounted to $188,370,000, a sum exceeded by Toronto and Montreal
alone among Canadian cities.
The Province of Manitoba forms a nearly perfect square of 270 M.,
with an area of 73,956 sq. M., or about 8000 sq. M. less than that of Great
Britain. In 1901 it contained 255,211 inhab. C25,228 in 1871, 62,260 in 1881,
and 152,506 in 1891). The name was taken from Lake Manitoba and means.
t The Verendryes pursued their adventurous explorations much farther
to the W. and are generally recognized as the discoverers of the Rocky
Mts. (1743) nr^r^n]o
' Digitized by VjOOQIc
City Hall. WINNIPEG. 5/. RouU, 247
In the Gree dialect, 'spirit Darrow8\ The province belongs almost entirely
to the great inland plain of the American Continent, and its surface is level
and little wooded. The great source of its wealth lies in the rich and easily
tilled soil , which is seen at its best in the Red River Valley. Immense crops
of fine wheat are grown here, and also large quantities of oats, barley , and
potatoes. The alluvial soil of this valley consists of the sediment of a
former great lake of the post-glacial age, to which the name of Lake
Agassiz has been given. The climate of Manitoba is very cold in winter
and hot in summer (range from —40® to 95** Fahr.), but is not unhealthy.
The mean annual rainfall is about 20inches. A large part of the province is oc-
cupied by the great lakes of the Winnipeg group (comp. pp. 250, 251). In 1905
the amount of grain exported from Winnipeg was over 80,000,000 bushels.
In Main Street (132 ft. wide; PI. B, 0, 1-3), near the centre of
the city, stands the Ci^Hall (PI. B, 2), a large building with a central
tower and comer-turrets (fine view from the tower; key obtained from
the care-taker in the basement). Inside are portraits of th^ mayors of
Winnipeg, by Victor Long, In front of the City Hall is a Monu-
ment^ inscribed In memory of Fish Creek and Batoche' (see p. 253).
Close by is the Union Bank (PI. B, 2), twelve stories high, one of
the fourteen banks of the city. Behind the City Hall is the Market
(PI. B, 2), a tasteful little building in an Italian style. Adjacent is
the Grain Exchange (PI. B, 2), which also harbours the Board of Trade,
Following Main St. towards the S. for about 650 yds., we reach
(left) the Canadian Northern Railway Station (PI. C, 3). — A little
farther on, at the comer of York Ave. (PI. C, 3; r.), are the Custom
Home and the Hudson Bay Co.'s Stores, the headquarters of this
powerful historical corporation, not far from the site of Fort Garry
(see p. 246). These stores form a huge bazaar, somewhat resembling
one of the great Co-operatiye Stores of London, and repay a visit.
The Hudson Bay Oo. was established in 1670 by a charter of Charles II.,
granting to Prince Bupert and a few associates the monopoly of the fur-
trade over the vast tract of country — nearly as large as Europe ^^ ex-
tending from Lake Superior to Hudson Bay and the Pacific. This mono-
poly, which practically included all the rights of government, was un-
disturbed for nearly 200 years. The company divided the whole territory
into 4 departments, 33 districts, and 152 posts, employing at one time
3000 traders, agents, and voyageurs, besides many thousands of Indians.
In bartering with the Indians the unit of account was the beaver-skin,
which was the equivalent of two martens or twenty musk-rats, while
the pelt of a silver fox was five times as valuable as a beaver. The
rule of the company was on the whole beneficial to the Indians, who
were not allowed to buy spirits. In 1783-4 the North-West Fur Co, was
formed at Montreal, and for a time it carried on a bitter rivalry with
the H. B. Co. In 1821, however, the two companies coalesced, retaining
the name of the older corporation. As population increased in the terri-
tory, the proprietary tenure of the company was felt to be an unendur-
able anomaly, and in 1869 its rights were transferred by act of parliament
to the Crown, while its territories were incorporated with the Dominion
of Canada in return for a compensation of 300,0001. The company still
retains its posta and its trade and a right to a certain proportion of lands
surveyed for settlement. Comp. histories of the Hudson Bay Co., by Prof.
George Bryce (1900), Becklee WilUon (1899), and Millm' Christy.
Behind the Hudson Bay Co.'s Stores is the large Auditorium Rink.
Nearly opposite the Hudson Bay Co. is the Crown Timber Office,
From this point Main St. now goes on past Fort OarryEark (PLjC, 3),
Digitized by VjOOQIC
2^8 Route 51. WINNIPEG. Manitoba UnhersUy.
and reaches the Assiniboine Riyer at its jundtion with the Red River
(PI. C, 3). In the meantime, however, we turn to the right and
follow Broadway (PI. A-C, 3), which leads, passing the Manitoba
aub (1. ; PI. C, 3), to (V2M.) theParUament Bnildings (PI. B, 3),
a large and handsome pile, with wings, mansard roofs, and a low
central tower. Visitors are freely admitted to all parts of the building
and to the galleries of the Legislative Chamber (Manitoba has one
chamber only) when the Legislature is in session. — To the left (S.)
of the Parliament Buildings sitmAsthe Lieutenant-Governor's Residence
(PI. B, 3), in a similar style of architecture j and behind lies Fort
Osborne (PI. B, 3), the military headquarters, with its drill-shed and
barracks.
To the right (N.) of the Parliament Building, also facing on
Kennedy St., are the Land Titles Offices (PI. B, 3) and the Court
House (PI. B, 3), yet another edifice with the inevitable mansard
roofs ; and behind the Court House lies the Provincial Oaol (PI. B, 3).
To the W. of the Gaol is the new building, in plain grey stone,
of the University of Manitoba (PI. B, 3), erected in 1900 and
forming the administrative centre of the five denominational colleges
mentioned below and at p. 249. — To the S. in Broadway, facing
the end of Osborne St., is the Church of All SainU (PI. B, 3).
Following Kennedy St. from the Court House towards the N., we
reach (i/aM-jl.) Manitoba College (PI. B, 3), a large Presbyterian
institution, attended by about 90 students and forming one member
of the University of Manitoba (see above). [ Wesley College (PI. B, 3 ;
200 students), the Wesleyan member of the University, lies a little
to the S., between Balmoral St. and Spence St.] From Manitoba
College we may return towards the centre of the town through Ellice
Ave. , passing the Granite Curling Rink (PI. B, 3), Knox Church
(PI. B, 3), Grace Church (PI. B, 3), and the Masonic Temple (PL B, 3).
Among the other buildings of importance in Winnipeg proper are
the extensive City Hospital (PL A, 2), in Bannatyne Ave.; St. Johns
Episcopal College (PL C, 1); the Manitoba Medical College (PL A, 2 ;
these two affiliated to the University of Manitoba) ; the Provincial
Deaf and Dumb Institute (PL A, 3), in Portage Avenue ; the C. P. R.
Land Offices, in the C. P. R. Station (p. 245); 8t. Mary's Church
(PL B, 3), in St. Mary's Ave., cor. of Hargrave St.; TrinUy Chi^rch
(PL B, 3), Donald St., cor. of Graham Ave. ; the Children's Home
(PL 0, 3), River Avenue; the ^aton Department -Store (PL B, 3), in
Portage Ave. ; the new Police Station in James St. (PL C, 2) ; the
new Grain Exchange, at the cor. of Mc Dermot Ave. and Rorie St.
(PL 0, 2); and the new Carnegie Library (PL B, 2). There are
several large Flour Mills and Breweries near the Red River. The finest
PHvate Residences are in the quarters adjoining the Assiniboine, espec-
ially in Roslyn Road (PL B, 4), to the S. of that stream. River Park
and Elm Park, the two chief parks of the city, are both in the Fort
Rouge district, adjoining the Red River (beyond PL 0^, 4; ^lectric
Digitized bydOOQlC
EnvkoM. WINNIPEG. 52. JBoute. 249
tramway). The Industrial Exhibition Orounds (PI. A, 1) aie in the
N.W. part of the city.
St. Bonifaee (PI. D, 2-4), on the opposite side of the Red River,
is a separate municipality With (1901) 2019 inhah., most of whom
are French. It was founded in 1818 and is now the Roman Catholic
headquarters of N.W. Canada, containing a Roman Catholic Cathedral
(PI. D, 3), an ArchiepUcopal Palace (PI. D, 3), a Convent (PI. D, 3),
and a Hospital (PI. C, 3), all near the river. A small monument to
Louis Biel (p. 246) has heen placed in front of the Palace, and he
is buried in the French Cemetery here. Ahout ^3 M. from the river
stands St. Boniface College (PI. D, 3), the Roman Catholic memher
of Manitoba University, with about 20O students. — On the S. side
of the Asslniboine, 3V2 M. #om the city, in the suburb of Tuxedo
Parky lies the fine new Manitoba Agricultural College,
The Environs of Winnipeg offer little to detain the lover of picturesque
scenery, but the sportsman will find good prairie-chicken shooting within a
few miles of the town , and by going a little farther afield («. ff. to Lake
Winnipeg or Lake Manitoba) he may get a shot at big game. Information as
to equipment, guides, etc., may be obtained at the hotels. — SUamert ply
on the Red River and Astiniboine^ but at irregular intervals. — A pleasant
short excursion may be made to Silver Heights^ the model farm of Lord
Strathcona, situated on the KT. bank of the Assiniboine, 41/2 M. from the city.
Fboh Wimnipeo to St. Paul by the Canadian Pacijic Railway and the
Soo I4ne^ 461 H., in Wk hrs. (fare $ 18.26, sleeper $ 3). — This line ascends
the E.bank of the Red River. IVz M. St. Boniface (see above). At (65M.) Emer-
son (see below) we enter the United States. lU M. Thief Rivtr Falls ; 237 M.
Detroit (Minn.)} 314 M. AUxandria; 831 M. Glenwood. 461 M. Minneapolis
and (461 M.) St. Paul (see Baedeker's United States).
Fboh Winnipeg to St. Paul by the Canadian Northern A Northern Pacific
RailwaySy 482 M., in 18 hrs. (fares as above). This line runs to the S.,
along the W. bank of the Red River^ the valley of which is one of the
diief wheat - growing regions of the world, producing in a good year
30-40 million bushels. At (8 M.) Portage Junction the main line of the
Canadian Korihem Railway diverges to the right (B. 63), and from (40 M.)
Morris (see below) a branch-line runs to (146 M.) Brandon (p. 261). At
(66 M.) Emerson (Russell Ho. } IT. S. Agent} see above) we reach the fron-
tier. 68 M. Pembina^ in K. Dakota, is the first station in the United States
(small articles of luggage examined). We here cross the Pembina River,
pass on to the track of the l^orthern Pacific Railway, and continue to follow
the Bed River Valley. 112 M. Gri^ton. At (162 M.) Grand Forks (830 ft. •,
Northern, J 2-2Vt), a railway-centre with (1900) 7652 inhab. and manufactures
of carpet-sweepers, etc.. we turn to the left (E.), cross the Red River,
and enter Minnesota. 189 M. Orookston (Com.mercial , $ 2), a city of (1900)
6359 inhab., with various industries. — At (257 M.) Winnipeg Junction we
reach the main line of the Northern Pacific Railway, which we follow to the
S.E. to (471 M.) Minneapolis and (482 M.) St. Paul (see Baedeker's United States).
Feom Winnipeg to St. Paul by the Oreat Northern Railway, 489 M.,
railway in 171/2 hrs. (fares as above). This line also ascends the Red River
Valley. — The train starts from the C. P. R. Station and runs over the
G. P. R. tracks as far as the frontier. At (42 M.) Morris (Commercial
Hotel) we touch the line above described. From (56 M.) Roset^eld Junction
a branch-line runs to the W. to (166 M.) Napinka (Leland Hotel } through-
fare from Winnipeg $ 8.75). This branch traverses a district largely
settled by Mennonites from Russia. — 70 M. Gretna (U. S. Agent) is the
last Canadian station, and (71 M.) Neche, on the 49th parallel of N. lat,
is the first in the United States (North Dakota ; custom-house examination).
We then cross the Pembina. At (106 M.) Qra/ton we intersect the line
described above. From (147 M.) Orand Forks (see above) the G. N. R. has two
250 Route 51. LAKEWINNIPEa
routes to St Paul, one on each side of the Red River. OttrZline remains
on the W. side, traversing fine fields of wheat, and at 0^35 M.) Fargo
(900 ft.) intersects the Northern Pacific R. R. Hence to (478 M.) Minneapolis
and (489 M.) 8t. Paul^ see BaedekerU United SUxtet.
Fbom Winnipeg to Selkibk and Winhipkg Beach, 61 M., C. P. R. in
2V4 hrs. (fare $ 1.50). This line runs towards the N. £., on the W. bank
of the Red River, the 8t. Andrew Rapid* on which have been made navigable
by the Dominion Government. — 9 M. Middlechurch , on the site of Lord
Selkirk's unfortunate colony (p. 246), is a settlement with (1901) 1231 in-
habitants. 12 M. Parkdale; IT M. Victoria Park. — 20 M. Fort Gai-ry^ a
post of the H. B. Co., is a picturesque relic of older days. Pretty drive
hence along the river to (4M.) Selkirk, bordered by wych-elms and ferns. —
26 M. Selkirk or West Selkirk (Merthant* Hotel, $11/2; Canadian Pacific,
$ 11/4, well spoken of J, with (1901) 2188 inhab., the Provincial Lunatic Asy-
lum, a cold storage warehouse (ammonia process^ capacity, 1,600,0(X) lbs.
of fish), and a government fish-hatchery, lies on the Red River, opposite
Fast Selkirk (p. 243). Steamers ply hencMn summer to various points on
Lake Winnipeg. — The line now bends to tne left and runs towards the K.,
passing (33 M.) Clandeb<nfe, (41 M.) Nethy, (48 M.) Whytewold, and (49 M.)
Ponemah. — 61 M. Winnipeg Seach (King Edward^ Alexander, Waldorf, $ 2;
large C. P. R. hotel in contemplation) is a new summer-resort, at the S. end
of Lake Winnipeg (see below), with good bathing and boating.
[Lake Winnipeg (710 ft. above the sea) is 260 M. long and varies in
widUi from 5 H. to nearly 60 M. Like its companions , Winnipegosis and
Manitoba, it Is rather shallow, being nowhere more than 70ft. deep. It
receives the waters of the Red River, the Winnipeg River, and the Scukatche-
wan, and drains into Hudson Bay through the Nelson River. There are few
settlements on its banks except some Icelandic colonies near its S. end
and some scattered posts of the Hudson Bay Go. Steamers ply upon the
lake in summer (comp. above), but there is little to tempt the ordinary
tourist to visit it, though the sportsman might find his account in a pro-
perly guided exploration of its banks. The Lake Winnipeg whiteflsh (comp.
p. 225) are said to be the best (annual catch 4,000,000 lbs.).]
Fbom Winnipeg to Teulon, 40 M., C. P. R. in 2 hrs. (fare $1.20). This
line is the first section of a railway intended to run to the K., between
Lake Winnipeg and Lake Manitoba and down the Nelson River, to Port Nelson
on Hudson Bay (about 700 M.). 20 M. Stonewall, a lumbering village; 30 M.
Balmoral; 35 M. Gunion. — 40 M. Teuton. — The district traversed by this
line is mainly settled by Icelanders and Norwegians. The shooting here
is good (moose, elk, deer, prairie-chicken, water-fowl ; comp. p. lvii\
Fbom Winnipeg to Soueis , 151 M. , C. P. R. (S. W. Branch) in 8 hrs.
(fare $ 4.50). — This line traverses a fertile farming district, passing a number
of small stations. From Souris (see p. 251) lines run to (127 M.) Areola,
and (215 BL) Hegina, to Napinka (p. 249), and to Brandon (p. 251).
Fbom Winnipeg to Oak Point, 61 M., Canadian Northern Railway in
7 hrs. (fare $ 1.90). This line runs to the N. W. in the directien of Lake
Manitoba. — 23 M. Qrosse Jsle^ the station for Hanlan; 37 M. Woodlands;
47 M. Lake Frances Station, situated between Lake Frances, 6 M. to the W.,
and Shoal Lake, a narrow sheet of water 30 M. long, 5 M. to the E. At
(56 M.) St. Laurent we reach the shore of Lake Manitoba (see p. 251). — 61 M.
Oak Point, the present terminus of the line, also lies on Lake Manitoba.
52. From Winnipeg to Banff.
921 M. Canadian Paoifio Railway in 38 hrs. (fare $ 82.80 ; sleeper $ 6,
tourist-car $ 3). From Winnipeg to (1482 M.) Vancouver in 2i/4 days (fare
$ 50; sleeper $ 12, tourist-car $ 6). From Montreal to (2343 M.) Banff in
3 days (fare $71.65; sleeper $14, tourist-car $ 7). From Halifax and from
Montreal to Vancouver, see p. 23U.
Winnipeg , see p. 245. The train runs to the W. over a flat and
limitless prairie. As far as (41 M.) Poplar PoinUfew settlements
Digitized by VjOO
BRANDON. ^^.BouU, 251
or signs of cnltdvation are visible , most of the land being held by
speculators. Farther on the prairie is covered with vast crops of
wheat, offering a singularly imposing sighlj in harvest. The line of
trees visible to the left (S.) marks the course of the Assiniboine Biver.
29 M. Marquette is just halfv^ay between Montreal and Vancouver.
56 M. Portage -la -Prairie (864 ft.; Grand Pacific, Leland,
Bdlevue, $2), a grain-market with (1901) 3901 inhab., flour-mills,
large grain-eleyators, and various manufactures. It lies 15 M. to the
S. of Lake Manitoha (see below). Portage- la-Prairie is also a station
on the main line of the Canadian Northern Railway (see p. 262).
Fbok Pobtagb-la-Psaibix to Yobkton, 223 M. , Ccm. Pac. Railway in
9 hra. (fare $ 7). — This line runs to the N.W., through a prosperous
fan](Ling district. 17 M. Wesfboume is only 8 M. from the S. end of Lake
Ma^M>a (see below). — 35 M. Qladttone (Bail. Restaurant) is the junction
of tiie G. N. R. line to Edmonton (p. 264). — 79 M. Minnedota (Minnedosa
Hot4l, $1-1V2; Grand Central), a flourishing little town of (1901) 1052 in-
hab., on the Little Saskatchewan. Good shooting may be obtained in the
district. — A branch-line runs to the S. from Minnedosa to (15 M.) Rapid
dip. — 138 M. Birtle (Rossin Ho.). From (155 M.) Bintcarih a branch-Une
runs to (12 M.) Russell (Queen's, Grand Central, $1-1V2), in the Shell River
district, 4 M. from which are a farm and agricultural school belonging to
the Barnardo Home, London. Beyond this point we reach the upper valley
of the AMirUboine and cross the river. 190 M. Churchbridge; 206 M. Salt-
coflrf* (Queen; Royal; 673 inhab. in 1901), a settlement of Welshmen, trans-
ferred hither from Patagonia, with a good cottage-hospital. — 223 M. Yorkton
(Balmoral, $ I-IV2). [Beyond Yorkton the line goes on to (43 M.) Sheho,
whence it will be extended to Wetaskitoin (p. 257), forming the shortest route
from Winnipeg to Edmonton.]
A short line runs due N. from Portage-la-Prairie to (16 M.) Delta, at
the S. E. end of Lake Manitoba, the irregularly shaped lake, 120 M. long,
which gives name to the province (comp. p. 246). At present, however, this
branch is used for freight only.
The line now traverses a rough district, with numerous so-called
*bluff8' or sand-hills overgrown by stunted vegetation. From (78 M.)
MacGregor a branch-line runs to (55 M.) Varcoe. Beyond (85 M.)
Awtrn -we reach the *Second Prairie Steppe' (see p. xxxviii), another
fine wheat-growing region, with an area of 105,000 sq. M. and an
average altitude of 1600 ft. 106 M. Carberry, the chief grain-market
for the district. Beyond (114 M.) Sewell we descend towards the
valley of the Assiniboine. 127 M. Chafer is the junction of the
Miniota branch of the 0. P. R. (p. 252). To the S.W. rise the Brandon
HUU, We now cross the Assiniboine and reach —
133 M. Brandon (1190 ft.; Empire, Imperial, Grand View, $2;
Langham, $ II/2; Bailway Bestaurant, good), a substantial-looking
little town of (1901) 5620 inhab., pleasantly situated on high ground.
It is the chief grain-market of Manitoba, audits elevators are here, as
in most towns of Manitoba, a conspicuous feature. Among the most
prominent buildings is Emi^ation Hall. The Government has an
experimental farm here (670 acres).
Fbom Bbandon to Estevan, im M., Can. Pac. Railway in 7 hrs.
(fare $5.40). — This line taps the fertile district of the Souris or Mouse
River, which also yields much coal. 25 M. Souris (Transit Ho., $l-iy«),
with about 1800 inhab., is the junction of a line to Winnipeg (see p. 250),
252 Route 52. BROADVIEW. From Winnipeg
and (69 H.) Jfapinka (see p. 249} of one to Rosen/eld. on the line from
Winnipeg to Gretna (comp. p. 249). Beyond Kapinka the line rana nearly
due W. 67 M. Melita (Metropolitan ^ Manitoba); 96 M. Carievale; 123 M.
Oxbow (Oxbow Hotel i Palace). — At (164 M.) Etievan (KeUy Ho., $lV2-2;
p. 264) conneclion is made for St. Paul (see Baedeker's United Statei),
Fboh Brandon to Mobris, 145 M., Canadian Northern Railway in
leVahrs. (fare $4; night spent at Qreenway) — Intermediate stations un-
important. Morris^ see p. 249.
Fbom Bbandon to Miniota, T7 M., Can. Pae. Railway in 5V4 hrs. (fare
$ 2.30). — This line diverges from the main line at (6 M.) Chater (p. 251).
17 M. Forrest (see below). From (34 M.) Ounter Junction the railway runs
to the W. to (33 M.) Pettapiece, (49 M.) Oak River, (57 M.) Eamioia, (66 M.)
Croud all, (71 M.) Arrow River ^ and G7 M.) Miniota.
Fbok Bbandon to Lenobb, 58 M., Can. Pac. Railway thrice weekly (Mon.,
Wed., A Frid.) in 5 hrs. (fare $ 1.75). This line diverges at (17 M.) Forrest
from that to Miniota (see above). Stations unimportant.
Beyond Brandon we continue to traverse a well-cultlYated and
fairly populous district For about 300 M. we pass through glacial
drift overlying cretaceous formations. The Souris branch (see p. 251)
diverges to the left at (141 M.) Kemnay. Beyond (165 M.) Oak Lake
we leave the Assiniboine valley and ascend somewhat. 181 M. Virden
(Balmoral Hotel, $172); 197 M. Elkhom (Manitoba Hotel ; Rose-
bery, well spoken of). Between (204 M.) Kirkella and (212 M.)
Fleming we enter the new province of Saskatehewany formed in
1905 out of parts of Assiniboia, Athabasca, and Saskatchewan (see
p. 253) and containing 230,660 sq. M. of area (pop. ca. 250,000).
The S. part of Saskatchewan includes the fertile valleys of the
Qu'Appeile and the South Saskatchewan, in which several colonies of High-
land crofters and others have been established and are doing well. Many
towns and villages have sprung up along the railway.
Kirkella is the junction of the G. P. R. branch-line to (63 M.) Esterhaty,
(147 M.) Lipton, and (201 M.) Strassburg (fare to this point $ 6.85), which
passes through a fine agricultural district.
From (220 M.) Moosomin (Queen's Hotel) stages run regularly
to the N. to (4 M.) Fort Ellice and to the S. to the (50-60 M.) Mooee
Mountain Distnct. 235 M. Wapella (CJommercial); 257 M. Percival.
— 265 M. Broadview (1950 ft. ; Broadview, $ 1-2 j Victoria, $ 1-1 V2),
a divisional station at the head of Weed Lake. A number of Cree
Indians may usually be seen here, from their reserve, extending to
the N. from the railway to the Qu'Appeile River. Central time now
gives place to ^Mountain' time, 1 hr. slower (p. xii). — 281 M. Qren-
feU; 296 M. WoUeley. — Beyond (306 M.) Sintaluta we enter the
celebrated wheat-belt of which (315 M.) Indian Head is the centre.
There is a Government experimental farm at Indian Head (680 acres). —
Indian Head is said to be the greatest ^primary' or 4ocal' wheat-market
in the world.
From (325 M.) Qu*Appelle (2134 ft.) a stage runs every week-
day to (20 M.) Fort Qu'Appeile (hotel), on the Qu'Appeile River.
Good fishing is obtained in the Fishing Lakes into which the Qu^Appelle
River expands here, and the shooting of the district is also good. Farther
to the N. lie the Touchwood Sills and the Beaver Bills.
Beyond Qu'Appeile we traverse a small wooded district. 333 M.
McLean (2284 ft.). Near (342 M.) Balgonie is the first of the large
farms of the Canadian Land & Ranch Co.; 349 M. Filot Butte.
to Banff. R^GINA. 52. Route, 253
358 M. Begina (1885 ft. ; Windsor Hotel, from $3 ; Alexandra),
the capital of the new proYlnce of Saskatchewan (p. 252), is a brisk
little town of (1901) 2645 inhab., with a considerable distributing
trade for the country to the N. and S. The Public Buildings lie to the
N. Regina is also the headquari;ers of the North- West Mounted Police,
it body of about 600 picked men , under strict military discipline,
formed to look after the Indians and maintain law and order in the
N. W. provinces (including the Yukon). The success with which this
handful of men, dispersed over so vast an area, performs its func-
tions, and the respect with which it is regarded by white men and
red men alike, are almost incredible.
Down to 1906 Begina was the capital of the so-called North -West
Territories of Canada, embracing the whole of the vast territory bounded
by the United States (49th paraUel of N. lat.) on the S., British Columbia
and Alaska on the W., the Arctic Begions on the K., Hadson Bay and
Manitoba on the E., and Ontario on the S.E. (see Map at the end of the
Handbook). Their total area was about 2,6(X),0(X) sq. M., or larger than all
Europe outside of Bussia. The five ^Provisional Districts* of Assiniboia^
Satkatchewan, Alberta, Athaha$c(LBXid KeewaHn vrere formed out of the 8.
and E. portions of the region in 1876 and 1882, and in 1895 the unorganized
and unnamed part to t^ie N. was formed into the districts of Ungava^
FrankUn, and MaeKenxit, while the separate territory of Yukon (see p. dC^)
was created in 1898. Franklin contains the Arctic islands, with the penin-
sulas of Boothia and Melville. In 1906 the two ne^v provinces of Sew
katekeuan and Alberta were formed out of the four provisional districts
named first above, so that the K.W. Territories as at present constituted
have an area of rather less than 2,000,000 sq. M. They are administered
by a (Commissioner, appointed by the Govemor-Qeneral of Canada and
aided by an Executive Council.
F&OK Bboina to Psimcb Albebt, 250 M., Canadian Pacific Railway in
11 hrs. (fare $10). — This line runs to the N.W., through a thinly
peopled country, crossing the Qu^Appelle beyond (20 M.) Lumtden. 56 M.
Chamberlain; 78 M. Craik (Rail. Bestaurant); 82 M. Girvin; 111 M. Kenae-
ton; 184 M. Dundurn. — At (160 M.) Satiatoon (Bail. Restaurant: ca. 8000
inhab.) it crosses the South Saskatcheuan and then runs towards the X.
and N.E., through the fertile farming district between this stream on the
E. and the Iforth Saskatchewan on the W. Near (169 M.) Clark''$ Crossing
we intersect the Canadian Northern Railway (p. 262). — 178 M. Osier; 189 M.
Hague; 200 M. Rosthem (Occidental, $lVr'2); 211 M. Duck Lake; 229 M.
Maedowall. — 249 M. Prince Albert (Queen^s, $ 1-2), a small farming town
with (1901) 2275 inhab., situated on the North Saskatchewan, about 90 M.
above its junction with the 8. branch. Comp. above.
The above-mentioned district, between the two branches of the Sas-
katchewan, was the scene of the Biel BebelUon of 1886. The district
was largely settled by French half-breeds, who, dissatisfied with their
treatment by the Dominion Qovemment, rose in rebellion, induced the
neighbouring Indians to Join them, and summoned Louis Riel (p. 246) from
Montana to be their leader. Gsneral Middleton was dispatched with a body
of militiamen and volunteers to put down the rebels, and defeated them
at Fish Creek, not far from Hague (see above), and again at Batoche (May 9th,
1885), on the South Saskatchewan, 7 M. from Duck Lake (see above). Biel
was taken prisoner three days later, and was hanged, with eight of his
Indian followers, at Begina.
Fbom Bsoina to Abcola, 113 M., Can. Pac. Railway in 8 hrs. (fare
$ 8.95). Among the intermediate stations are (9 M.) Richardson, (17 M.)
Kronan, (44 M.) Francis, (64 M.) Fillmore, and (97 M.) Forget. — 113 M.
Areola, see p. 250.
The region to the N. and N. W. of Begina has recently been largely
settled by immigrants from the United §tates, men generally well provided
254 Route 52. MOOSE JAW. From Winnipeg
with capital, experience, and energy, and excellently qnalifled to open up
new ground. It is estimated that between 1900 and 1906 at least 200,000
settlers of this class crossed the frontier.
To the right, about 1 M. beyond Begina station, we see the
Lieutenant-Governor's Houses and a little farther on, on the same
side, are the Headquarters of the North-Weat Mounted Police (p. 253).
Large wheat-fields are passed, and cattle are seen grazing in the
distance. 392 M. Pasqua (see below).
399 M. Koose Jaw (1765 ft.; *Moo8e Jaw Hotel, owned by the
G. P. R., from $3; Maple Leaf Hotel, $2; Rail, Restaurant), a di-
visional station , with (1901) 2042 inhab. , mills, elevators, and
large stock-yards. Its Indian name is said to mean Hhe creek
where the white man mended the cart with a moose-jawbone*.
Fbom Moosk Jaw to North Pobtal, 169 M., Can. Pae. Railway in 6 hrs.
(fare $ 5.80). This line actually div^erges from the G.P.B. trunk-line at (7 M.)
Pasqua (see above) and runs to the 8. E. through a rolling prairie country,
peopled to a large extent by recent immigrants from the United States
(comp. above). The chief intermediate stations are (82 M.) RouUau, (54 M.)
Milestone, (74 M.) Yellow Grat$, (92 M.) Weybum, (109 M.) HalWite, (127 M.)
Macoun, and (144 M.) Esievan (p. 252). At (169 M.) North Portal, on the
frontier, it connects with the Soo- Pacific line to MinnecmoUt and St. Paul
(see Baedeker's United States; 19-22 hrs. j through-fare $22.65).
Along the S. W. horizon extends the Missouri Coteau (see below).
The line ascends steadily and at (434 M.) Parkbeg reaches the third
of the Great Prairie Steppes into which this part of Canada is divided
(p. xxxviii). This steppe extends hence to the base of the Rocky Mts.
and has an average altitude of 3000 ft. It is, as a whole, more suitable
for grazing and stock-rearing than for arable farming. — At (445 M.)
Secretan the drift-hills of the Missouri Coteau are well displayed.
In Dakota and the N.W. Territories the so-called 'Continental Moraine^
is represented by the Missouri Ooteau, one of the most remarkable results
of glacial action in the Dominion. The Coteau des Prairies in Minnesota
(see Baedeker's United States') is part of the same great natural feature,
which may be described as a mass of debris and travelled rocks, 800 M.
long, 3040 M. wide, and 1000-2000 ft. above the sea. Dr. Q. H. Dawson, who
was the first to recognize the glacial origin of the Missouri Coteau, thinks
that, while it may represent a Continental moraine, it is more probably
due to a deposit of material from floating ice along the sloping front of
the third prairie steppe. — The strips of ploughed land skirting the railway
on each side are ^fire-guards', to protect it from prairie-fires.
453 M. Chaplin lies on the northernmost of the ChapUn Lakes,
two large sheets of water, which have no outlet and are somewhat
alkaline. Numerous other smaller lakes are passed. The district we
are now traversing was the home par excellence of the buffalo, and
marks of their trails and wallows may be seen in all directions. Ante-
lopes, coyotes, and prairie-dogs are sometimes visible from the car-
windows. *Snow-breaks' are seen at intervals. — 473 M. Morse lies
on a salt lake, and (490 M.) Rush Lake lies on a lake of its ovm name
frequented by swarms of geese, ducks, and other water-fowl. Here,
too, to the right, is the second of the large farms of the Canadian
Land ^ Ranche Co., each of which contains about 10,000 acres. —
blO M. Bwift Current (2420 ft. -, Rail. Restaurant) is a divUional point.
to Banff. MEDICINE HAT. 52, Route, 255
To the left are seen a Government Meteorological Station and the
buildings of a sheep-farm of the Canadian Land Co.
Beyond this point the Cypress HUls, a remarkable plateau of cre-
taceous rocks capped by miocene gravels, rise to the S. (left) of the
line ; they are not very prominent in the view, though, towards their
W. extremity, they reach a height of nearly 4000 ft. The district
between the railway and the hills is well-watered and excellently
adapted for grazing. 545 M. Oull Lcike, with a stock-farm of the
above - mentioned company ; 675 M. Crane Lake , with the head-
quarters of the Can. Land Co. and a large stock-farm ; 596 M. Maple
Creeky with large cattle-yards and a station of the Mounted Police j
615 M. Forres. At (627 M.) Wahh we enter the new province of
Albertai which has an area of 250,000 sq. M. and an estimated pop-
ulation of 185,600. It was formed of the Territory of Alberta, with
parts of Assinibioia, Saskatchewan, and Athabasca (comp. p. 263). —
652 M. Coleridge J with a large ' mixed * farm of the Can. Land Co.
654 M. Dunmore (2308 ft.) is the junction of the Crow*s Nest
branch of the C. P. R. to Lethbridge and the Kootenay Region (see
R. 54). — From Dunmore Junction the train descends into the valley
of the South Saskatchewan.
660 M. Kedioine Hat (2170 ft. ; American HoUl, Cosmopolitan
Hotel, $2), a thriving little divisional station, with (1901) 1975 in-
habitants. Picturesque Indians haunt the station, selling buffalo-horns
and other curiosities. Coal is mined in this vicinity, and there are
also large deposits of natural gas, utilized in the factories and
residences of the town. Small steamers can descend the Saskatche-
wan all the way from Medicine Hat to (800 M.) Lake Winnipeg
(p. 250). — On leaving Medicine Hat the train crosses the South
Saskatchewan by a fine steel bridge, 1010 ft. long, and then ascends
again from the local depression of the river-valley to the prairie-
plateau. At (667 M.) Stair is a large cattle-farm of the Can. Land
Co. Between this point and Calgary some of the C. P. R. irrigation-
canals, mentioned at p. 256, may be seen on both sides of the line.
Between (674 M.) Bowell and (685 M.) Suffield there is a descent,
but beyond the latter point we rise steadily. At (696 M.) Langevin
weUs of natural gas have been sunk, and the gas is used in pumping
w»ter for the railway. The higher summits of the Rocky Mts., 150 M.
distant, are said to be visible in clear weather. The endless green
prairie is mainly used for cattle-ranches, though a few farms are also
passed. From (757 M.) Bassarw to Calgary the Laramie sandstone
is seen overlying the cretaceous rocks. The trees outlining the Bow
River are visible to the S. (left), and at (765 M.) Crowfoot, named
after a famous Blackfoot chief, we reach its bank. This part of the
railway is bordered on the S., for about 40 M., by the large Reserve
of the Blackfoot Indians, formerly one of the most warlike tribes but
now living as peaceable farmers. They number about 4000. Beyond
(784 M.) Gliichen (2960 ft) the snowy peaks of the Rocky Mt§,
256 Route 52. CALGARY. From Winnipeg
come into full view towarcls the W. and S.W. As we approach Calgary
the Bow River is seen to the left.
840 M. Calgary (3430 ft. ; * Alberta Hotel, Yale, $ 21/2-3 ; Queen%
from $2; Royal^ Orand Union, Victoria, from $1V2; U. S. Consul,
Mr, E. 8, Hotchkiss), a thriving little prairie city of (1901) 4866inhab.
(now estimated at 15,000), provided with electric light and other mo-
dem conveniences, is largely bidlt of a fine light-grey building-stone
found in the neighbourhood, which gives it a handsome and substantial
appearance. It lies on the S. bank of the Bow River, at its confluence
with the Elbow ; the tops of the Rocky Mts. are seen above the sur-
rounding hUls. Calgary is the trading centre of an immense stock-
raising region, the chief supply-station for the mining districts in
the mountains, and the milling centre for a district producing large
quantities of a fine quality of winter wheat, known as 'Alberta Red\
It is also an important station of the North- West Mounted Police
and of the Hudson Bay Co. and contains the workshops of the C.P.R.
The population contains a large proportion of a good class of English
settlers, and it offers a more refined life than most Western cities of so
recent origin. Calgary has two clubs and a sanatorium for consump-
tive patients. Among the chief buildings are the Roman Catholic
and Episcopal Cathedrals, the Methodist Church, the Western Canada
College, and the numerous Banks, To the S.W. of the town is the
large Reserve of the Sarcee Indians,
No visitors to Calgary should fail to Bee something of the extensive Irri-
gation Works recently eonstracted by the Can. Pac. Railway. These consist
of a system of main and secondary canals, which will ultimately irrigate
about 3,000,000 acres of land, on both sides of the railway between Calgary
and Medicine Hat (p. 265). The water for these canals is taken from the
Bow river at Calgary; and the main Hntake' canal is 17 M. long, 60 ft. wide
at the bottom, and 120 ft. wide at the water-line. This irrigation is expected
to make the district affected, now used for stock-raising, of considerable
value for agricultural purposes. — One of the hills (400-500 ft.) round the
town should be ascended for the sake of the 'View of the Bocky Mts.
The possibility of successfully raising horses, cattle, and sheep on the
elevated plateau of which Calgary is the centre is largely due to the fact
that the winter temperature is considerably higher than that of Manitoba
and other points to the E. This is mainly owing to the influence of the
warm Chinook Wind (resembling the Alpine Fdhn), which blows down from
the mountains. ^The bunch-grass* of the prairie cures itself as it stands
and forms excellent forage in winter.
*The prevailing winds (on the Pacific Coast) are from the West and in
striking the coast range they are deflected upwards ; the expansion of the
air resulting from the decrease of atmospheric pressure causes a dimi-
nution of temperature. As soon as the point of saturation or dew-point
is reached, the moisture is precipitated m the form of rain. After passing
over the coast range, the air comes down into the slightly lower legion
around Eamloops, and, being heated by the compression consequent upon
increased atmospheric pressure, it is much above dew-point, so that it is
always dry. Pursuing its course eastwards, it soon strikes the western
slope of the Selkirks, the highest range of the Rocky Mountains ; the air
is again forced upwards ; and on coming to the altitude of the summit
of the coast range, dew-point is reached and rain precipitated. It con-
tinues to fall as long as the air ascends, that is until it has passed over
the summit. This explains why there to more rain on the western than
on the eastern sides of the Coast and Selkirk ranges. Still proceeding
to Banff. BOW RIVER GAP. 52. BouU. 257
eastwards the wind passes the summit of the Rocky Monntains, the air
descends into the plains of the Korth-West Territories and is heated hj
the compression due to greater atmospheric pressure, but having previously
absorbed the latent heat given up by the moistnre which fell as rain on the
Coast range and the Selkirks, it is now at a much higher temperature than it
was when at the same altitude on the western side of the mountains; it is
also much above dew-point. This is the explanation of the dry climate of
the western plains and of the paradoxical Chinook winds, which appear as
if warmed by passing over numberless fields of snow and ice^ (E. Deoille).
Fbom Caloabt to Edmonton, 193 M., Can. Pete, RtUlwtif in 11 hrs. (fare
$ 7.70). — This line runs nearly due K. m>m Calgary into the valley of the
North Saskatchewan. A view of the peaks of the Rocky Mountains Park (p. 269)
is obtained to the left as we leave Calgary. 20 M. Airdrie; 48 M. JHdsbury;
58 M. Oldi; 67 M. Bowden^ on a small lake. Farther on we descend the
valley of the Red Deer River Qeft), crossing it near (96 M.) Red Deer (meal-
station ^ Alberta, $lV2-2; 1400 inhab.). Beyond (ISO M.) Ponoka, to the W.
of which is the Reserve of the Sharp'Head Indians^ we eross Battle River and
traverse the reserve of the Sampson, Ermine Skin, and Bob- Tail Indians. To
the left rise the Bear Hills. 162 M. Wetaskiwin (comp. p. 251) ( 174 H. Leduc.
We then cross the Papas Chase Indian Reserve. — 192 M. Edmonton^ see p. 264.
The C.P.B. terminus is at South Edmonton or Stratheona (comp. p. 264).
From Caloabt to Maclbod, 108 M., Can. Pac. Railway m 4 hrs. (fare
$4.86). — This line runs to the S., into the ranching-district mentioned
at pp. 254, 255. We eross numerous small rivers. 40 M. High River (Bail.
Bestaurant). To the right rise the Porcupine Hills, backed by the Livingetone
Range, l^ear (50 M.) Cayley we skirt a narrow lake, which is frequented in
October by myriads of wild ducks. — 108 M. Macleod (Queen^s, $3-, Macleod,
$2), with (1901) 1701 inhab., is the centre of a prosperous farming district
and lies on the Old Man River, a tributary of the Belly. Bailway to Leth-
bridge and to the Kootenay District, see B. 54.
Beyond Calgaiy the train ascends rapidly among the green foot-
hills and river ^benches* at the base of the Rocky Mts., following the
winding course of the Bow and crossing it at (849 M.) Keith (3566 ft.).
Large horse, cattle, and sheep ranches are passed. Beyond (862 M.)
Cochrane (3749 ft.) are some coal-pits. Fine view of the snow-
capped Rockies, rising above the foot-hills (left). 873 M. Badnor
(3885 ft)} 881 M. MorUy (4070 ft.). We traverselthe Stony Indian
Beaervation and reach the E. boundary of the Rocky Mountains Park
(p. 259). — Near (894 M.) Kananaskis (4220 ft.), with its saw-
mills, we cross the river of that name, Just above its confluence with
the Bow. About 1/2 M. above the junction the Bow forms the beau-
tiful *Kanana8ki8 Falls, 40 ft high (not visible from the train).
Beyond Kananaskis the mountains close in on either^ hand and
form an apparently Impenetrable barrier. Beyond Ex»haw (a new
town with large cement- works and about 1000 inhab.) we pass the
small Lae des Ares (1.) and enter the *Bow Biver Gap (4230 ft.),
enclosed by the Fairholme Mts,, culminating in Grotto Mt, (8840 ft j
traU to top; *View), on the right, and Pigeon ML (7815 ft.), on the
left This fine gateway to the Rocky Mts. leaves barely room for the
river and railway to pass side by side. At its E. end is (902 M.)
Oap Station (4200 ft). A magnificent ♦View (1.) ^Is obtainedjof Wind
Mt. (10,400 ft.) and the triple peaks of the Three Sisters (9705 ft).
^A remarkable contrast between the ranges ahead is noticeable. Cm
the right are fantastically broken and castellated heights; on the left,
massive snow-laden promontories, rising thoutandi of feet, penetrated by
Basdbksb's Canada. 8rd Edit 17
258 RouU52. BANFF.
enormous aleovei in whicb hue and shadow of gorgeoua coloring lie
engulfed. The jaggedness of profile observed from the plains is now ex-
plained. These moantains are tremendoui uplifts of stratified rocka , of
the Devonian and Carboniferous ages, which have been broicen out of the
crust of the earth slowly heaved aloft Some sections miles and miles in
breadth, and thousands of feet thick, have been pushed straight up, so
that their strata remain almost as level as before ^ others are tilted more
or less on edge (always on this slope towards the east) and lie in a steeply
slanting posiUon; still other sections are bent and crumpled under prodi-
gious side-pressure, while all have been broken down and worn away
until now they are only colossal fragments of the original upheavals. This
disturbed stratification is plainly marked upon the faces of the cliflfs, by
the ledges that hold the snow after it has disappeared elsewhere, or by
long lines of trees , which there alone can maintain a foothold \ and this
peculiarity is one of the most striking and admirable features of the
scenery.' — Annotated Time Table of Can, Pac. Ry.
On emerging from the Gap, the train turns to the right (N.). As
we near (907 M.) Canmore (4286 ft ; Pullman, Canmore, |2), we
have a splendid profile view (L) of the Three Sisters (p. 257). On a
hill behind the station stands a group of white conglomerate rocks,
weather-worn into fantastic shapes. Good fishing and shooting are
obtained near Canmore, and coal is now being raised in its vicinity
to a considerable extent. — To the left, beyond the Three Sisters,
rises the long many -peaked Mt. Bundle (p. 259), and through the
deep notch between them runs the White Man Pa9$ Trail to the
Kooienay (p. 288). To the left flows the beautifully tinted Bow.
To the right rises MU Peechee (9615 ft.), named after a famous In-
dian chief, who travelled with Sir George Simpson of the Hudson
Bay Go. Ahead of us, apparently blocking our passage, towers Ccm-
cade Mt, (p. 269). We cross the Bow twice, but near (915 M.)
Anthracite (4490 ft.) we diverge to the right along its tributary the
Cascade^ which we also cross twice. The line now turns to the right,
quits the Cascade, and returns to the Bow. Near Banff station we
pass a corral containing a herd of 60 buffaloes. The enclosure also
includes deer, moose, and elk, while smaller native animals are
also preserved here.
921 M. Banff. — Hotels. •Banff Springs Hotel (C. P, 22.;, finely
situated on a bluff above the confluence of the Bow and the Spray, IVs M.
from the railway-station, with hot sulphur-baths, open-air swimming-baths,
tennis-court, and bowling-alley; good cuisine and attendance; $dVr4. In
the height of the season (July & Aug.) it is advisable to secure rooms in
advance. — Grand View Villa (5200 ft.; view), at the Upper Hot Springs,
with the sulphur-baths, physician, and nurses (comp. ^.WO)^ Sanitarium
HoTRL, near the Middle Spring, V2 ^' ^^^^^ the railway-station, $2-4;
Alberta, unpretending, $2; King Edward, near the railway -station,
$ iV2-2; WINDSOR. — Private Boarding Some, $ 1, near the station.
Omnibug from the railway-station to Banff Springs Hotel 50c., to Sani-
tarium Hotel 25c. — Carriage for 1 pers. $1 for first hr., 50c. for each
addit. hr. ; each addit. pers. 25 c. per hr. ; ses,t in carriage to Lake Minne-
wanka and back $2. — Saddle Horse. 75c. for first hr., 60c. for each addit.
hr., $ 2 per half-day, $ 3 per day (10 hrs.).
Cfuides. The G.P.R. Go. has recently stationed some experienced Swiss
guides in the National Park, the regular charge for whose services is $ 2>/s
per half-day, $ 5 per day. — Outnts for extended mountain-trips may be
procured from D. W, Peyio^ J. Simpson, T. E. Wilson^ ot, J. Braoster.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
yGoogk
yGoogk
ROOKY MTS. PARK. 52, Route, 269
Banff (4620 ft), a vUlage with about 800 inhab., splendidly
situated in the valley of the Bow, among the giants of the Rocky Mts.,
is the station for the Rocky MU, Park of Canada and one of the
most charming summer-resorts on the American continent. The
village lies a little to the S. of the railway-station. Immediately to
the N. rises Stony Squaw ML (6160 ft.) , to the right of which
frowns the massive Cascade Mt, (9825 ft.). To the E. are Mt. InglU^
maldie (p. 262) and Mt, Peechee (jp. 262). The low isolated elevation
in the S.E. foreground is Tunnel Mt, (p. 260) , to the S. of which
tower the peaks of Mt, Rundle (p. 262). To the right of the last, on
the other side of the-S!pray, are the Sulphur Mts, (7485-8030 ft.),beyond
which protrudes the N. end of the Bourgeau MU, (78*20-9510 ft) ;
while to the W. we look up the Bow Valley to PUot Mt, (p. 268)
and other summits of the main range of the Rocky Mts. Numerous
summer - cottages have recently been built in the pine - woods by
visitors from the E. — The traveller is strongly advised to halt at
Banff for at least a day or two. Banff is a more favourable centre
than Laggan, Field, or Glacier House for the visitor who is a not too
ambitious mountaineer. The roads, however, are often dusty and
never sprinkled.
The **Sook7 Mount uias Park of Canada (comp. pp. 257, 268), set apart
by the Dominion Government as a national reservation and pleasure-ground,
is as irregular triangle about 5100 sq. M. in extent, bounded on the W. by
the watersi ed of the main range, and rivalling the Yosemite Valley in gran-
deur and variety of scenery within limited space. It includes half-a-dozen
subsidiary ranges of the Boeky Mts., attaining a height of 8000-10,000 ft.,
a beautiful lake and a series of hot sulphur springs. Numerous excellent
roads and paths, the number of which is being steadily added to, afford
facilities for driving, cycling, riding, and walking, while the fisherman
will find excellent opportunities for his craft in the lakes and streams
(comp. p. lii). Shooting is not allowed within the Park limits^ hut Banff
forms a good centre for the pursuit of the big game in the neighbouring
mountains, including bear, elk, caribou, deer, wild goats (Haplocerus mon-
tanvi), and bighorn sheep (guides on application to the Superintendent).
The temperature in summer seldom exceeds 80" Fahr., and the air is pure and
bracing. Boating (incl. steam-launches and canoes) may be enjoyed on the
Bow River, above the bridge, and on Lake Minnewanka. July and August
are< perhaps, the best months for a visit. The Park is under the charge
of a Superintendent appointed by Government {ifr. Howard Douglas; office
in the village) ', and the Park Regulations (in regard to game, etc.), to which
strict obedience is enforced, may be seen at any of the hotels. Oamping
permits ($1 per tent) may be obtained from the Superintendent. — Near
the village is the national Park Mu»eum^ containing specimens of the fauna,
flora, and mineralogy of tbe region.
Mountain-climbers who wish to make ascents in the Rocky Mts. from
Banff, Laggan, Field, and other points would do well to consult 'In the
Heart of the Canadian Rockies\ by Eev. James Outram (1905); ^The Rockies
of Canada', by Walter D. Wilcox (1903); 'Climbs and Explorations in the
Canadian RocVies\ by Hugh E. M. Siuifield End J. Norman Collie (1903);
and 'Appalachia', the organ of the AppalacMan Mountain Cluhy of Boston.
All of these are well illustrated. — Many of the ascents described at pp. 262,
260-273, & 275-279 of this Handbook are from notes kindly furnished by
Mr. W. 8. Jacktonj of Upper Cam da College (p. 197), Professor Fay^ of
Boston, Mr. George Yaux Jr,, of Philadelphia, and Mr. A. 0. Wheeler,
President of the newly formed Alpine Club of Canada (1906).-
>ogI,
e
260 Route 52. TUNNEL MT. From Winnipeg
The natural centre of visitors is the Banff Springs Hotel (p. 258),
which stands on a bold bluff, overlooking the confluence of the Bow
and the Spray ^ about IV2 M. to the S. of the station; and this is
taken as the starting-point of the various excursions described below.
To the E. rise the striking and curiously-shaped peaks of Mt. Bundle
(p. 262). The hotel commands a fine general view of the Park.
The 'look-out' at the N.E. corner of the hotel affords a charming
*View of the confluence of the blue Bow and the rapid - rushing
Spray, almost immediately below us. Just before the confluence
the Bow forms a series of foaming white *Fall8 or CataracU^ to obtain
a nearer view of which we descend to the road skirting the river-
bank and ascend the path leading to the top of a bluff overhanging
the upper part of the falls. We should then follow the road to the
S. to the bridge which spans the Spray, just before it joins its larger
brother. Beyond the bridge the road (* Aspen Avenue') leads down
the valley of the Bow for about 4 M. (making a loop of 8 M.),
between the perpendicular walls of Tunnel Mt, (see below) on the
left and Mt Bundle (p. 262) on the right. The meadows over which
we pass are carpeted with the vivid red painter's brush, white and
yellow marguerites, asters, flreweed, golden rod, blue-bells, and in-
numerable other wild flowers, varying according to the season.
To reach the Upper Hot Springs (5200 ft.) we either follow the
roundabout carriage-road (ca. 2^2 M. ; see Map) or take the direct foot-
path through the wood. The latter begins near the Banff Springs Hotel
and ascends at'an easy gradient to the main road, reaching it opposite
the Grand View Villa and the Government Baths. The springs
(110-115*^ Fahr.) rise on the slope of the Sulphur Mt8. (p. 259). The
water contains sulphate of lime, soda, and magnesia, resembling that
of Hot Springs, Arkansas (see Baedeker'' s United States) j and is
efficacious in rheumatism, affections of the skin and blood, etc. It
is used both internally and externally. The Dominion Government
has erected a good bath-house, adjoining which is an open-air
swimming pool. See also p. 261 and p. 258.
The ascent of ^Tunnel Mt. (5540 ft. ; there and back 2-3 hrs.)
is one . of the favourite short excursions , for the sake of the view.
An excellent bridle-path leads to the top, and a carriage-road has
been constructed about two-thirds of the way up (horse $2). We
follow the main road leading towards the village and cross (74 M.)
the bridge over the Bow. We then pass the Methodist Church (at
the first turn to the right), take the second turn to the right, follow
the road in the direction of Tunnel Mt, and soon reach a house
with a sign-board indicating]the bridle-path, which is plainly mark-
ed and easy. Walkers or riders may use the path in going and the
road in returning (or^vice versll). The path at the top leads also to
the N. bluff of the mountain. On the S. and £. the mountain
descends precipitously to the valley.
The **yiKW fromTithe top is grand. The Kational Park is, perhaps,
seen to the greatest advantage from this point, as many of the beanUes
to Banff. LAKE MINNEWANKA. 52. Route. 261
of the valleys are lost from the higher mountains. Among the conspieaous
points are the village •« the railway-station; the Vermilion Lakes (p. 262),
near the station; the Sanitarium; the Banff Springs Hotel; the houses at
the Gave and Basin (see below); the Hot Springs; the bridge over the Bow;
the winding green Bow, on both sides; the Cascade Biver (but not its
confluence with the Bow); the Spray, and its junction with the Bow;
Cascade Mt. and the Squaw (N.); Mts. Inglismaldie and Peechee (E.);
the sloping peaks of Ht. Bundle (S.) ; the heavily-timbered Sulphur Mts.
and the Ooat Bange (W.; concealing Bourgeau Bange); and Mt. Massive
(K.W.).
The hot springs known as the Cave and the Basin (ca. 4700 ft.)
form the object of another short excursion. "We proceed as above to
the C^/iM.) bridge over the Bow, but turn to the left without crossing
it, beyond the Sanitarium (I. ; p. 258), and follow the road (sign-
post) leading to (1 M.) the group of houses adjoining the Gave and
Basin, at the N. end of the Sulphur Mts. (comp. Map). The *Cave
is a sulphurous spring rising within a calcareous grotto, and the
*Ba8in or Fool is an open-air spring of the same character close
by. Both bathing -places (temp. 90-96®) are approached through
cottages containing bathing-rooms (fee 25 c, incl. dress and towels).
The io-called Cave is not a subterranean formation at all, but really
the cone of a now quiescent geyser, similar to those in the Yellowstone
Park (see BaedekerU United States). It was discovered by an orifice at the
top of the mound in which the spring occurs (which may be seen by climb-
ing up the outside), and the present lateral passage leading into it is arti-
ficial. The atmosphere within the Cave is full of slightly sulphurous
steam or 'vapour, and the Basin, on a fine day, affords, perhaps, the more
attractive bathing-place of the two. The depth of each is 5-6 ft. The custo-
dian points out formations on the roof of the cave that are supposed to
resemble various British statesmen. — Beyond the Basin we may follow
the road for li/s M. more to the entrance (1.) of the fine *8undance Oanon,
where the stream descends in a series of cascades through a romantic
rocky gorge with sides 200 ft. high (path). — The road running to the S.
from the Sanitarium leads to the so-called Middle Spring.
The favourite drive In the Rocky Mts. Park is that to *Lake
Minnewarika (coach daily in summer), a distance of 9 M. (fare, see
p. 258). The road crosses the bridge, traverses the village, and
then runs to the right (N.E.), following the course of Whiskey
Creek. About 4 M. from the hotel it crosf es the railway and trav-
erses the plain at the base of Cascade Mt.' (1.), with the waterfall
which gives it its name. To the right flows the Cascade Biver, After
passing (1 M.) Bahkheadj with ca. 2000 inhab. and large mines of
anthracite coal belonging to the G. P. R., we again (3 M.) turn to
the right (S.E.), cross the Cascade River and Devils Creek, and
soon reach (1 M.) the W. extremity of the lake, where there are a
small inn, a steamer, and a flotiUa of boats to let. The inn contains
a small museum of local curiosities. The views on this drive are
very fine. — *Lake Minnewanka, or DevUs Lake (4800 ft. above the
sea), lies in a narrow trough -like valley between the Fairholme
Bange (Inglismaldie, Peechee, etc.) on the W. and the Palliser Mts.
on the E., and is about 11 M. long, with an average width of
V2-I M. Its greatest depth is about 300 ft. The W. end is enclosed
between a precipitous unnamed mountain (7570 ft.}[^ig^he left
262 Route 52. MT. ASSINIBOINE.
and MU Inglismaldie (9715 ft.) on the right. At the E. end of the
lake are some curious rocks known as the Hoodooa. To the E. of
the lake the valley » here containing two ponds, is known as the
Devils Gap and lies between the Devils Head on the left and Saddle
Mt. on the E. About 6 M. beyond the lake Is the Qhosi River, which
joins the Bow near Morley (p. 267). Devils Lake contains a variety
of trout (Salvelinus namaycush), which sometimes attains a weight
of 30 lbs. and is caught by trawling.
Among other pleasant ezcarsions witbin the limits of the l^ational
Park are the drive to (4Vs M.) AnOiraeite (p. 268) by the extension of the
carriage-road over the flank of Tunnel Mt. (p. 260); a trip by fteam-lannch
or small boat on the Bow River (boats near bridge; launch for 1 or more
pers. $ 5) ; a canoe-trip from the Bow up the Forty Mile Creek and below
the railway-bridge' to the * Vermilion Laiie (see Map), where an excellent
view is obtained of Mt. Massive, Pilot Mt., and adjoining peaks; and a
walk through the valley of the Spray (bridle-trail to Spray Laies. 90 M.).
Mountain Asgknts. Sulphur Mt. (8030 ft.) is easily ascended rrom the
Hot Spring in 5-6 hrs. by a corkscrew bridle-path leading to the Govern-
ment Meteorological Observatory (7484 ft.) near the top (fair view). The
Observatory . is connected by teleeraph with the Museum (p. 259), where
the records are made. — Mt. Bundle (so named after a missionary to the
Orees and Assiniboines) or the Peakt (S. peak, 9828 ft.; central peak, 9615 ft ;
N. peak, 9665 ft.) may be ascended by mountaineers in one long day (there
and back; guide desirable ; view). — Oaioade Mt. (9826 ft.) may be ascended
from the hotel in 4-5 hrs. (view). — Mt. Edith (8370 ft.) affords a sporting
rock-climb. — Mt. IngUtmaldie (9715 ft.) and Mt. Peechee (9616 ft.) do not
repay the toil of an ascent. — Mt. Assiniboine (ca. 11,860 ft.), the ^Matter-
hom' of the Rockies, rises about 20 M. to the 8. of Banff and waa first
ascended on Sept. 3rd, 1901, by the Rev. Jamet Outram and the Swiss guides
Edeler and Bohren, by a route circling round the mountain to its S.W.
arSte. The entire trip, there and back, occupied SVs days; the actual
ascent from the last camp (7200 ft.) took ca. 6V2 hrs. The *yiew is of im-
mense extent, including an interminable sea of peaks on every side except
the E. (Ottertail Mts., Mt. Stephen, the Cathedral, Mts. Victoria, Lefroy,
Temple, Hungabee, Deltaform, etc.). The climb is, of course, one for experts
only. — The mountain-climber will find numerous other foemen worthy of
his steel in the other ranges either in or closely adjoining the Park.
.Passes. Two passes lead from the iG^pray Valky into the Kootmay Region
(pp. 287, 288), one passing between the Ooat Range and Mt. Rundle^ the other
between the Ooat Range and the Bourgeon Mts. — A pass leads through
the Devili Qap and along the Qhoet River (see above) to Morley (p. 267).
53^. From Winnipeg to Edmonton vi& Canadian
Northern Eailway.
827 M. Canadian Nobthebn Railway in 39 hrs. (fare $ 27.60 ; sleeper $ 5).
This line runs into the Saskatchewan valley, opening up some of the great
grain-producing regions of the Korth West.
From Winnipeg to (3 M.) Portage Junction , see p. 249. Our
line here diverges to the right from that to Emerson (St Panll and
runs towards the W. 12 M. 8t, CharUs; 21 M. White Plains; 31 M.
Eli; 43 M. OakviUe; 49 M. Curtis,
At (56 M.) Fortage-la-Prairie (see p. 261) the Canadian Nor-
thern Railway crosses the Canadian Pacific Railway and holds on
towards the N.W. — 67 M. Aritona Junction, the diverging point
of a line to (76 M.) Carberry; 61 M. Walldon; 76 M. Beaver.
DAUPHIN. 53. Route. 263
From (84 M.) Neepatva Jufiotion a branoh-line mns to the W.
to (33 M.l Neepawa (King Edward ; Hamilton), a small prairie-town
with (1901) 1418 inhab., whence another branch-line goes on to
(84 M. from Neepawa) Rossbum, — 88 M, Oolden Streams.
93 M. Gladstone (Rail. Restaurant; 731 inhab.) is the junction
of the O.P.R. line to Torkton (see p. 261). — 107 M. Plumas. —
From (139 M.) McCreary Junction a branch -line runs to (41 M.)
Neepawa (see above). — 167 M. Makinak; 166 M. Ochre River,
178 M. DanpMn (Grand View; King's; Manor House; meal-
statlon), with (1901) 1135 inhab., lies at the S. end of Lake Dauphin^
a sheet of water 25 M. long and 8-12 M. wide. It is a distributing
centre of some importance and the junction of a railway to Prince
Albert.
Fjrom Dadphiv to Prihcb Albebt, 364 H., Canadian Northern RaUvtay in
18 hrs. (fare $ 13.66). This line runs towards the K.W. through a wheat-
growing district, partly settled hy Galicians, Doukhobors (see below), and
Scandinavians. — 4 M. Oilheri Pkrint Jvnetion is the actual point of
divergence from the main line. From (18 M.) Si/ion Jvnetion a branch-
live runs to theN.B. to (21 M.) Winnipegogi* (362 inhab.)« situated on Lake
WinnipegosiSf a huge body of water rivalling Lake Manitoba in size (120 M.
by 27 M.). There are large salt-wells here. Beyond Sifton Junction the
line bends to the left (N.W.). 33 M. EtMhert; 42 H. Garland; 52 M.
Pine River; 63 M. Sdater, on the 8. branch of the Duck River, flowing
into Lake Winnipegosis ; 70 M. Cowan, on ihe N. branch of the Duck
River. The line now curves to the W. 81 M. Fishere. — 102 M. iSftMifi
River (Bail. Restaurant ; 264 inhab.), where we pass from Central time to
Mountain time, is the junction of a short line to (20 M.) Benito. 8v>an
River Valley is largely peopled hy the ^Doukhobors\ a Quaker -like sect
of Rusoian settlers, of whom there are about 3(X)0 in this region. Their
chief village is named Voynesenie. In spite of their peculiar customs, to
which they adhere with considerable tenacity, these men make good and
thrifty farmers and are considered as desirable immigrants. In 1902 about
25 per cent, of them undertook a singular religious march to Winnipeg,
which had finally to be interrupted by force; but a repetition of this
kind of eccentridty is hardly expected. Comp. ^A Peculiar People, the
DoukhobiSrs', by Aylmer Maude (London, 1905). — Beyond 8wan River our
line now runs almost due N. About 20 M. to the E. of (124 M.) Birch River
lies Swan Lake., 152 M. Baden and (161 M.) Powdl are named after a British
general who distinguished himself in the Boer War. We now enter Sas-
katchewan (p. 252) and run almost due W., passing several small stations.
302 M. Meljort (meal-station) ; 347 M. Fenton. — 364 M. Prince Albert (p. 253).
At (181 M.) Oilbert Plains Junction (see above) the Edmonton
line diverges to the left from that to Melfort and runs towards the
W. Most of the stations are unimportant. 208 M. Chrandview, We
enter Saskatchewan (p. 252) between (253 M.) Makaroff and (258 M.)
Togo. At (279 M.) Kamsack we change from Central time to
Mountain time. 336 M. Invermay lies on a small lake. 426 M.
Humholdty a divisional point; 478 M. Aberdeen, Near (485 M.)
Clarkboro we cross the Saskatchewan River, and at (491 M.) Warman
we intersect the Qu'Appelle, Long Lake, & Saskatchewan Railway.
572 M. North Battleford, a railway divisional point. — 658 M.
Lloydminster, on the boundary between Saskatchewan and Alberta
(p. 253), is the headquarters of the 'all-British' colony of 3000
persons, established by the Rev. T. M. Ban in 1903. About 2i/2 M.
264 Route 63. EDMONTON. From Winnipeg
to the S. is a depression coTered with thousands of buffalo-bones. —
Between (690 M.) Vermilion and (765 M.) Vegreville we pass Birch
Lake Oeft^. 775 M. HUliard; 797 M. Bruderheimj a German settle-
ment; 810^M. Fort Scukatehewan.
827 M. Edmonton (^Alberta Hotels $ 2; Windsor ^ $2; Strathcona
Ho, . $ 1 V2-2» *t Strathcona), the (provisional) capital of the new
province of Alberta (see p. 253), the centre of a prosperous farming
district, and an important focus of the fur-trade, is a progressive
and prosperous little town on the N. bank of the North Saskatchewan,
The population in 1901 was 2652, but it is now about 12,000, or,
if we include the contiguous town of Strathcona or South Edmonton
(p. 257), nearly 15,000. It contains several flour-mills, saw-mills,
and brick-yards, a brewery, and numerous other industrial estab-
lishments. Besides being a station on the C. P. R. and G. N. R., it
will also be one of the chief points on the Grand Trunk Pacific Rail-
way across the continent (see p. 307). Edmonton was established
as a post of the Hudson Bay Go. in 1795, and the picturesque
stockaded Fort of the Company stands on a bold bluff above the
town. The assessed value of the town in 1905 was $ 6,000,000.
Many of the buildings of the town are handsome and substantial.
Alberta CoUege^ the most northerly college in America, is lal ready
attended by 200 students. Alluvial gold, with platinum, is found
along the North Saskatchewan and its tributaries between Edmonton
and the base of the Rocky Mts. ; and coal also exists to a considerable
extent in the valley to a point at least 50 M. above Edmonton. —
Tothe E. of Edmonton rise the Beaver HillSj beyond which (25-30 M.
distant) lies BeaverhiU Lake^ a fine sheet of water, 12 M. long and
6 M. wide, haunted by water-fowl. The land in the vicinity is well
suited for farming and is being rapidly settled.
From Edmonton a road (railway in contemplation) leads to the K. for
about 100 M. to a landing of the H. B. Co. on the Athabasca River, From
this point navigation is kept up in summer by the large boats (^sturgeon
boats') and flat-bottomed nver-steamers of the H. B. Co.,. all the way to
the ArcHe Ocean^ vi& the Athabasca, Athabasca Lake (186 M. long), the Great
Slave River y the Oreat Slave Lake (340 H. long), and the Mackentie River
(1900 M. long). There are several poipts where portages are necessary, the
longest (16 M.) being near Fort Smith, on the Oreat Slave Biver. The
northernmost occupied post is Fort McFherson, on the Mackenzie River,
about 80 M. from its mouth. This *• Oreat Lone LancT is, of coarse, seldom
visited except by fur-traders; but ttiere are trading-posts and mission-
stations along the whole route just indicated, and the adventurous trav-
eller, if supported by the good-will of the H. B. Co., would find few real
hardships in making the whole or part of the trip. Close connection cannot
be counted on ; and without special arrangements the trip might consume
most of a summer. Much of the region is quite suitable for agricultural
settlement and may some day support a considerable population. —
Athabasca Landing is also the starting-point of the route to Little SUhm
Lake and the Peace River District. The H. B. Co., steamer *Peaoe Biver*
also plies up the Peace Biver from Chepewyan (p. 265) to Hudson's Hope,
amid the Bocky Mts. — A trail is now being formed from Athabasca
Landing across the Bocky Mts. to the Tukon (p. 293).
Those who think of making either of the above excursions should
consult the excellent ^Beport on the Peace Biver and Tributaries in 1891\
to Edmonton. FORT SIMPSON. 53. BouU: 265
by WilKam OffilvietpubliBhed. in the annual report of the Department of
the Interior for 1892. Mr. OgilTie gives the distances from Fort Smith
onwards as follow: io Fort BetoMiony on theOreat Slave Lake, IWVs M.$
thence t<» Fort Providence, 167 M.; thence to Fort Simpson^ on the Mackenzie
Biver, at the month of the Liard^ 167i/s M.; thenee to Fort fTH^ley, 134 M.^
thence to Fort Norman ^ ISOVs M.^ thence to Fort Good Hope, 169i/i M.;
thence to Fort MePhereon, V^/a M. (in all 12731^ M.). — Gomp. the report
of Dr. O. M. Dauaon (Geol. Sorv. Can.. 1878-9) and the ^Report on an Bz-
ploration of the Yukon and Mackenzie Basins', by Mr, R, 0, MeConnoll
(Oeol. Sorv. Can., 1891). These contain good detailed maps. Beference
may also be made to ^Sport and Travel in the Northland of Canada', by
David T, Htmbury (New Tork, 1904: with a good map) and to the reports
of /. B, TifrreU and Jama M, Bell (Canadian Survey).
'^It may be of general interest to the public to state how easily any
one who is desirous of doing so can get beyond the Arctic Circle or into
the Arctic Ocean if so minded. We will presume we are in Ottawa, and
wish to visit the land of the midnight sun. Four days from Ottawa
9id the Canadian Pacific Bailway we arrive at Calgary, one day from
Calgary we arrive at Edmonton vid the Calgary and Edmonton Bailway.
From Edmonton three to four days will be required to reach Athabasca
Landing} this part of the route (about one hundred miles) has to be made
with the aid of horses. By timing ourselves to reach Athabasca Landing
about the first days of June, we will likely catch the steamer 'Athabasca*
at the Landing, and go down to Grand Bapids on her. From Grand Bapids
it will take us three or four days to reach McMurray, and if we are
fortunate enough to catch the steamer 'Grahame* there, we will reach
Chepewyan in a day. Another day will take us to Smithes Landing, akid
another to Smithy if we are fortunate at Smith's Landing we can get to
Smith the same evening. If we meet the steamer ^Wrigley* at Smith,
and she is bound for McPherson, for which she generally starts about the
last days in June or the first days in July, we will likely reach McPher-
son in seven or eight days. The steamer has not heretofore gone farther
down than the delta, but it is possible she may in the future go down
to the Arctic coast and along it a short distance.
From the foregoing we see that even with the present facilities we
can reach the Arctic Ocean from Ottawa in about twenty-three days, let
us say to cover possible contingencies thirty days, and return in about
forty. On the way we will pass through about 1200 miles of beautiful
prairie country, which extends almost to Athabasca Landing; and from
Athabasca Landing to the Arctic Ocean, upwards of 1800 miles, we have
only ordinary river navigation, with the exception of a few miles on
Lake Athabasca, and about 120 on Great Slave Lake. During the whole
of the journey we are likely to experience as pleasant weather as if we
had remained in Ottawa, and it may be pleasanter. We are likely to see
much that will interest and surprise us, and we will certainly have a
much clearer conception of the extent and value of our country. All
the way to the Arctic coast we will see timber and plants similar to much
we see here, and were it not for the absence of many of our trees, and
the increased duration of daylight (which we will likely find at the coast
to be of twenty-four hours duration each day) we would hardly realize
that we had travelled upwards ot 4(XX) miles nrom Ottawa, and been more
ttian 1600 north of it. I cannot specify the cost of such a trip, but
would place the maximum at about $800. It is well to bear in mind
that nortti of Edmonton the steamers have no regular date of sailing,
their movements being governed by the Hudson's Bay Company*s needs,
and transport facilities over the other parts of the route, and it is possible
that we might not even be able to make our way to the Arctic on the
steamer ) but there would be no great difficulty in completing our journey
with such aid as the Hudson^s Bay Company could place at our disposal, in
which case our journey would partake more of the primitive style of travel-
ling and be a more satisfactory experience to ourselves". (Ogilvie).
[In regard to the above quotation it should be noted tiiat the H. B. Co.
steamer on the upper Athabasca no longer runs, its place being taken by
^66 Boutedd. L^THBRIDGE.
^stargeon boata* (p. 26^) ; and that the Roman Catholie Mission has also a
small steamer plying from Fort Smith to the Lower Mackea/'.ie. The in-
tending travel'er should communicate in advance with the H. B. Ck>.*s Com-
missioner at Winnipeg and with the Re». Dr. E. J. Legale Albert, Alta.]
The hannt of the wood-bnffalo (Bison Amerieanus) ^ which is now,
however, extremely scarce, lies to the N. and W. of the Athabasca River,
extending across the Peace River to the Liard. The musk-ox ( Ovibos mos-
chahfi) and many caribou inhabit the ^Barren Grounds* to the N. of tiie
Great Lake and E. of the Mackenzie. All these animals are , of course,
out of season in summer, and the sportsman requires to stay in the district
till late in autumn, when it is very difficult to return to civilization before
the next spring. — The Mackenzie River Mueeum^ organized at Fort Simpson
by the H. B. Co.^s officers, contains an interesting collection of animals,
fossils, etc., found in the country.
54. From Dunmore Junction to Lethbridge and
Kootenay Landing.
394 M. Ceow's Nest Branch Railwat (C.P.R.) in I71/4 hrs. (fare $ 15.95 : to
Lethbridge $ 4.40^ through- fare to Kelson $ 18.05. to Rossiand $ 20.45). This
line runs nearly due W., the G.P.R. main line bending to the N.W. atDunmore.
Dunmore Junction, see p. 266. At (16 M.) Seven Persons we
criftw^the stream of that name. 31 M. Winnifred, At (47 M.) Bur-
deli we are within 6 M. of the South Saskatchewan^ which flows to
the N. of the railway. A little farther up this stream is joined by ths
Belly River, the valley of which our line ascends. Between (64 M.)
Purple Springs and (80 M.) Woodpecker we approach to within
2 M. of the river.
107 M. Lethbridge (2986 ft. 5 Lethbridge Ho., Dallas, Balmoral,
$ 2 ; v. S. Agent\ a thriving town with (1901) 2326 inhab., pleas-
antly situated on the Belly River, owes its prosperity to the fact
that it is the centre of an important coal-region, supplying a large
part of the consumption of coal in W. Canada. Large crops of
various kinds are grown in the district by the aid of irrigation, the
water for which is taken from the St, Mary's River (see below) and
the Milk River (see below). The Oalt Hospital is a well-equipped
institution, and there are many other substantial buildings In the
town. A little to the S. of Lethbridge lies the large Reserve of the
Blood Indians, a branch of the Blackfeet.
Fbom Lsthbbidgb to Swebt Gbass (Codtts), 66 M., Alberta Railway in
SVs hrs. (fare $ 3.80). This line runs to the S.E. — 2 M. Montana Junction. —
19 M. Stirling is the junction of a line to Cardston (see below). — 34 M.
TyrrelV* Lake; the station is about 3M. from the lake of the same name.
Beyond (42 M ) Bi'vnton we pass Verdigris Lake (I.), and at (53 M.) Milk River
we cross the stream of that name. — At (66 M.) Sweet Grass (CouttO we
reach the U. S. frontier (Montana) and connect with the Great Korthem
Railway, which runs on via (39 M) Shelby to (139 M.) Or eat Falls (206 M.
from Lethbridge; through- fure $9.20j comp. Baedeker's United States).
Fbom Stibling to Cabdstok, 47 M , Alberta Railway in 2V4 hrs. (fare
$ 2.36). This line diverges to the right frooa that ab<>ve described and runs
to the 8.W., following the course of the ^Sf^ Mary'^s River (see above). — At
(7 M.) Raymond there is a laxge beet-sug.r facto rv, erected at a cost of
$ 600,000. — 18 M. Magrath; 29 M. Spring Coulee; 85 M. Raley — 47 M.
Cardston. on the St. Mary's River, is a thriving Mormon settlemMit, with
about 1000 inhab., producing laz^ quantities of sugar-beet (comp. above).
CROW'S NEST PASS. 64. RouU, 26?
Beyond Letlil>ridge our railway crosses the wide and deep
8t Mary's Valley l>y a series of trestle and trass bridges and runs
tlirough the Maeleod Ranching District, From (126 M.) Kipp the
Bocky Mts. are sometimes visible to the left. 143 M. MacLeod (Rail.
Restaurant), a divisional station (comp, p. 257). — We now ascend
along the Old Man River, Fine views of the Rocky Mts. to the left.
163 M. Brocket, Before reaching (172 M.) Pincher we cross the
Pincher Creek by a bridge 800 ft long. This is a good sporting and
fishing region. Some promising oil-fields have recently been dis-
covered 45 M. to the S.W. of this point, near the international
boundary. — 179 Cowley ^ on the S. branch of the Old Man River;
190 M. BurmiSj vnth the pretty little falls of the Middle Fork, —
We now pass through the Oap and reach (197 M.) Frank (Im-
perial, $2), a new coal-mining settlement. In 1903 Frank was
overwhelmed by an enormous land-slide from Turtle Mt. (4400 ft.)
which wrecked some of the mines and caused a great loss of life. —
We now penetrate the Livingstone Range of the Rocky Mts, by the
^Crow's Kest Pass. Fine scenery, with Crowds Nest Mountain
(9000 ft.) rising to the N.W. The coal discovered in this district
occurs in numerous and thick seams. Some of it makes excellent
coke, which is of inestimable value to the smelters of the Kootenay
District (p. 288). The train passes Crow's Nest Lake (4400 ft.)
and then skirts Island Lake (4420 ft.), just beyond which, on the
dividing line between Alberta and British Columbia, we reach the
highest point of the railway (4450 ft.) and begin to descend on the
other side along Michel Creek. Beyond (212 M.) Crow's Nest (4440 ft.)
we pass through an amazingly contorted part of the railway, known
as the Loopj where 3 M. of track are used to advance a distance of
«less than 200 ft. At (224 M.) Michel (3850 ft.) the line turns to the
S. and begins to follow the valley of the foaming Elko River, 230 M.
Sparwood; 248 M. Femie (Femie, $21/2; King Edward, Waldorf,
$ 2; 1410 inhab.). Near (266 M.) Etko (3080 ft.) we cross and leave
the Elko River, which continues its course towards the S. while
the railway bends to the W. Fine scenery. — 279 M. Jaffray. At
(289 M.) Wardrur (2485 ft.) the train crosses the Kootenay River
(p. 288) by a fine truss-bridge with a swing-span of 170 ft. We
then follow the W. bank of the Kootenay to (301 M.) Fort Steele,
311 M. Cranhrook (Cranbrook, from $2; Royal, Canadian, $1-2)
is a thriving little divisional point and lumbering-town, with (1901)
1200 inhab. A branch-line runs hence to (19 M.) Kimberly (mines).
— The railway now bends abruptly to the (left). 321 M. Swansea
and (332 M.) Moyie (3046 ft.) both lie on the pretty little Moyie Lake.
We thread a tunnel 450 ft. long. Beyond (352 M.) Yahk the line
again turns to the W. and crosses the ridge (2860 ft.) of the Purcell
Range of the Selkirk Mts. 366 M. Kitchener, We cross the deep cafion
of the Qoat River (view). 379 M. Oreston ; 390 M. Sirdar (1800 ft.),
on Duck Laktf frequented by large flocks of geese and dncks-^jp
268 Route 66, LAGGAN.
394 M. Kootenay Landing (p. 287). Tlie laUway is to be con-
tinned to (52 M.) Nelson^ but at present communication vitb that
point is maintaineby steamers on Kootenay Lake (comp. p. 287).
55. From Banff to Vancouver.
660 M. Canadian Pacifig Railway in 26hrs. (fare $ 22.40 j sleeper $6,
tourist-car $3). Tlirougli- trains and fares from Halifax and Montreal^
see p. 230.
This section of the Canadian Pacific Railway has probably grander
and more varied scenery to show than any equal length of railway in the
world. There is not a dull or uninteresting minute all the way from Banff
to Vancouver, while the daily service of trains in each direction is so ar-
ranged as to pass the least beautiful part at night. In the long days of
summer, however, the early riser need not miss very much. In the season the
wild flowers add greatly to the attractions. Observation-cars are attached
to Ihe trains. The traveller is strongly recommended to break this journey
by stopping at least one night at Laggan (see below), one at Field (p. 271),
and one at Glacier House (p. 274).
Banff, see p. 258. The train runs at first towards the W., with
the winding Bow to the left and the Vermilion Lakes (p. 262) to the
light. Fine retrospects. Ahead rise Mt, Massive and the other moun-
tains enclosing Simpson Pass. We then turn to the right, and the
ledge of Pilot Mt, (9130 ft.) becomes conspicuous in front (left). To
the light is Hole-in-the- Wall Ml, (7500 ft.), showing an enormous
cave roofed by a perfect arch. At (7 M.) Sawback (4476 ft.) we ob-
tain a fine view of Castle Mt. (see below) on the right front. 17 M.
Castle Mountain Station (4660 ft) lies at the foot of Castle MU
(8850 ft.), which towers to the right. To the left we now obtain,
where openings in the woods allow, fine views of the grand Bow
Eange, including Pilot Mt. (see above). Copper Mt (8500 ft; these*
two behind us), Mt, Deltaform and others of the Ten Petiks (p. 270),
and the imposing peak of '^Mt, Temple (p. 270). Near (25 M.) Eldon
(4815 ft) the whole range is in sight To the right, beyond Castle
Mt, are the Slate Mts,, a fore-post of the Sawback Range,
35 M. Laggan t (5040 ft), finely situated at the foot of Mt, Fatr-
view J is the terminus of the Western Division and the beginning of
the Pacific Division of the railway. A monument was erected here
in 1906 to Sir James Rectory the discoverer of the Hector or Kicking
Horse Pass (p. 271) in 1858. To the right opens the Upper Valley
of the Bow, between Mt, Hector on the right and the Waputik Mti,
to the left ; and by looking up this gap, we see one of the first of the
great glaciers visible from the railway, about 12 M. off and 1300 ft
above us. At Laggan the time changes from the 'Mountain* to the
'Pacific* standard (1 hr. behind ; comp. p. xii).
f Laggan and the Lakes in the Clouds are included in the Rocky Hts.
Park (p. 259). P ooal^
Digitized by VjOOQIc
LAKE LOUISE. 66, Route. 269
Laggan is the station for a visit to the three Laxbs in thb Clouds,
in the Bow Valley, an excursion which should not be missed except
through dire necessity. Ponies and carriages meet the trains. A
road (stage there and hack $1) leads to (23/4 M.) *Lake Louise
(5670 ft.), 172 M. long and 8/4 M. wide, magnificently situated at
the hase of the stupendous glacier-clad Mt. Victoria (p. 270). At
the N. end of the lake stands the large Lake Louise Chalet (from
$.372) meals $ 1 ; telephone to Laggan), where fly-flshers and other
visitors may obtain accommodation and camping-outfits (pony $ 2
per day; to Mirror and Agnes Lakes $172 J g^ide $2 & $li/2).
Swiss guides (p. 258) are also stationed here in summer for the use
of mountaineers. One of the striking beauties of the lake is the
various tints of green it shows in different lights and from different
points of view. The brilliant wild flowers in the neighbourhood form
another attraction. From Lake Louise we may walk or ride (2 M.)
to Mirror Lake (so called from its wonderful reflections) or Shadow
Lake (6400 ft.), and thence we may walk to Agnes Lake (ca. 6700ft.).
These lakes lie on the side of Mt, Whyte (see below), to the N.W. of
Lake Louise. A fine cascade falls from Agnes Lake to Mirror Lake.
All three lakes are often^visited from Banff (p. 258). Lake Louise
abounds in small trout, but there are no fish in the other lakes.
Excursions from Lake Louise. A visit sbonld be paid to the face
of the stupendous * Victoria Glacier and its tributary the Lefroy Olacier,
3 M. from the chalet and 660 ft. above it. A great part of the discharge of the
glacier enters the lake under the debris of the moraine. A bridle-trail has
been cut from the chalet round Mt. Whyte, on the W. side of Lake
Louise, to (6 M.) the base of Mt. Victoria. — A carriiage-road runs from
the chalet to Moraine Lake (6190 ft.), situated 9 M. to the S.E., at the base
of the serrated range known as the Ttn Peake (see below). A camp has
been established at Moraine Lake for the use of mountain-climbers. —
Midway between Lake Louise and Mpraine Lake diverges a bridle-path,
ascendine Paradise Valley to the Horseshoe Glacier. From Paradise Valley
a pass (Si58 ft.) leads between P'nnacle Mi. and Mt. Temple to the Valley
of the Ten Peaks (p. 268), while Mitre Pass (8300 ft.), between Mt. Lefroy
and Mt. Aberdeen, leads to the W., via the Lefroy Glacier, to Lake
Louise. — Lake CTHara (p. 271) may also be reached y\% Abbot Pass
(early start desirablr)' Good walkers may go on to Hector (p. 270) and
return by railway. This is one of the grandest Alpine routes within easy
access of a railway. It passes Late Oesa^ which is frozen for 11 months
in the year. — One cf the best fhort trips from Lake Louise is that to
the Saddleback (ca. 7500 ft. j iVi-2 hrs.), which affords a superb •View of
Mt. Temple, with the tiny Lake Annette at its base. This excursion may
be combined with the ascent of Mt. Fairview or Saddle Mt. (p. 270).
Ascents fbom Lakb Louise. Whymper^s Camp (2-8 hrs.), the name given
to the N. end of the rock-wall connecting Popes Peak with Mt. Whyte.
From Lake Agnes (see above) we cross snow and moraine direct to the
foot of the wall, whence a straight rock-climb leads to the col. A guide
is necessary for the inexperienced, as occasional falling stones occur. . From
the top good rock-climbing leads to the summits of Mt. Whyte (10,365 ft. \
I-IV2 hr. from the camp), and Pope*s Peak (ca. 9500 ft •, Vr^/4 hrs.), giving
excellent practice-climbs. Beautiful views of the Lake in the Clouds and
surrounding peaks. The DetiVs Thumb, a spur of Mt.^Whyte with a fine
<chinmey\ is also a good point of view.
Ht. lefroy (11,290 ft. ^ 7-9 hrs) was first ascended in' 1897 by Messrs.
Nfirman Collie^ H. B. Dixon^ C. E. Fay., A. Michael^ H. C. Parker, 0. L. Noyes^
270 RouU65. MT. TEMPLE. From Banff
C, 8. Thompson^ and /. R. Vandertipy with Peter Barhach, The ascent, which
should be undertaken only under favourable condition<], is one for experts
only. After crossing Lake Loui«e, we follow the route to *Ahhot Pau^
named after Philip S. Abbot, who was killed on the mountain in 1896.
The early attempts were made up the S.W. face. Now the N. comer of
the mountain is turned by an easy ledge, till the N.W. face is reached, which
is then followed to the double-headed summit. Descent to the lake, 3-4 hrs.
Ht. Victoria (11,400 ft. ; 7-9 hrs.), was first ascended in 1897 by Messrs.
i\r. Collie, C. E, Fay, and A, Michael, with Peter Setrhctch, The route follows
the crest of the Continental Divide for a long way and affords splendid
views. The lower rocks near Abbot Pass are first scaled, demanding caution
from their friable nature, till the snow-ar§te is reached; and this is follo-
wed for the rest of the journey. The pioneers took 8 hrs. from the chalet
to the summit, and over 5 hrs. for the return ; but times must vary greatly
according to the condition of the snow.
*Ht. Temple (11,687 ft.; 5-6 brs.), the highest peak in the district, was
first ascended in 1894 by Messrs. 8. E, Allen^ L. F. Frissell, and W. />. Wilcox,
A pack-horse and driver should be taken to the camp on Moraine Lake
(p. 269) and an early start should be made thence to secure good condition
of snow, if the day is clear. The ascent is made in the hollow of the E.
face in a fairly straight line from the camp, with long scree and snow
slopes and some moderate rocli;8, to a small couloir; thence the snow-arSte
is followed to the summit. Great care must be used in approaching the
edge over Paradise Valley (p. 269) to the right, as it, like we summit, is
always heavily corniced. The *View from the top is one of the gr-ndest
in the Rockies, extending from Mt. Assiniboine to Mt. Columbia, with Sir
Donald dominating the Selkirks in the W. Descent to camp easy (2-3 hrs).
The Beehive 0350 ft.; 2 hrs.; *View) and Mt. St. Piran (W30 ft.; 2 hrs.)
are ascended from Agnes Lake. — Mt. Sheol (ca. 95(X) ft.), Mt. Fairview^
Saddle Mt (ca. 80C0 ft ), and Mt. Aberdeen (10,260 ft.) may also be e?sily
ascended by the skilled mountaineer.
The cmef summits of the Ten Peaks range (p. 268) are Eungabee or
the Chi^lain (11.447 ft. \ first ascended by Prof. H. C. Parker, with C. and
H. Eaufmann, in 1903), Mt. Dsltaform (ll,Q25ft : first ascended by the
same party, with Dr. Eggers, in 1903), and Mt. Fay (10,612 ft. ; first ascended
in 1904 by Hiss Benham , with Hans Kaufmann). Adjoining the last on
the E. is the huge column of rock known as the Tower of Babel (7580 ft),
at the E. base of which lies Consolation Valley.
The district to the N. of Laggam ( Upper Bow Valley)^ beyond the rail-
way, also offers much of interest and beauty, including Mt. Sector
(11,206 ft. ; 7 hrs. ; first ascended by Messrs. Abbot, Fay, and Thompson,
without guides, in 1895), the fine Hector Lake^ the beautiful Bow Lake^ and
the sources of the North Saskatchewan. Mts. Columbia (12.740 ft. ; the highest
mountain hitherto climbed in Canada*), *Forbes (12,075 ft. ; the finest peak
in the region), Lyell (11,460 ft.; the *key-peak' of the region), and Bryce
(11,685 ft. ; a difficult and dangeif>u8 climb) are among the grandest peaks
in the Rocky Mts. The first ascents of all these were made in 1902 by Mr.
Outram and C. Eaufmann, (with companions in the case of Mt. Forbes).
Tbe great glacier of Mt. Columbia is 200 sq. M. in extent.
At Laggan we cross and leave the Bow and ascend to the left
along a tributary named Bat/» Creek. The summit, marked by a rustic
arch inscribed *The Great Divide' and by a small lake (both to the
left), is reached at (41 M.) Stephen (5320 ft.). We here ent^r BritUh
Columbia (p. 292). We then at once begin the abrupt descent,
passing (43 M.) Hector (5207 ft.) and the Wapta Lake^ just beyond
which, to the right, at right angles to the line, is the long, sharp,
brown ridge of Mt. Ogden, which the railway-men very appropriately
cftU the Broadaxe. ^ i
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
to Vancouver. FIELD. 65. Rofite. 27 1
From Hector a bridle-trail leads to the S., along the well-named Oata'
ract Stream (about 10 min. up which is a curiously perched boulder, form-
ing a sort of loophole through which part of the stream foams) to(8M.)
^Oi'Hara Lake, which rivals Lake Louise in the grandeur of its Alpine
scenery. — *Lake Mc Arthur, at the foot of Mt. Biddle (10,500 ft.), IV2 hr.
above O'Hara Lake, is fed by a glacier and is full of icebergs. The outlet
is through an underground passage, into which the water is sucked in a
kind of whirlpool.
The wild and beautiful ^Kicking Horse or Heotor Pass , which
we now enter, is traversed by the foaming Kicking Horse Biver^
dashing far below us to the right, while to the left tower the Cathe^
dral Spirei (p. 272) and *Mt. Stephen (p. 272; named after the first
President of the 0. P. R.), the latter one of the noblest summits in
the Rocky Mts. To the right opens a magnificent ♦View of the Yoho
Valley (see helow), flanked by huge glacier-studded mountains.
As we proceed, a green hanging glacier, 500 ft. thick, is seen to
the left, high up on the shoulder of Mt. Stephen. The works of a
silver-mine are also seen on the side of Mt. Stephen, several hundred
feet above us. We pass through a short tunnel. The gradient be-
tween Stephen and Field is so steep (1 : 22J, that three large and
powerful locomotives are often required to take an ordinary passenger
train up the incline, while five are sometimes used on freight trains.
51 M. Held (4064 ft. ; *Mt. Stephen Howe, from $ 3, meals 75 c),
a divisional railway-station on the left bank of the Kicking Horse
River, closely hemmed in by lofty and imposing mountains. On the
one side is Mt. Stephen (p. 272) , on the other rise the massive
Mt. Field (p. 272) and Mt. Burgess (p. 272). Looking down the
pass, towards the S.W., we see the Van Home Range to the right.
Field is another important mountaineering centre, where ponies,
equipments, and Swiss guides may be obtained. The hotel is well
kept, and good fly-fishing may be had in the neighbourhood.
ExGUBsioMS. Among the pleasanteot of the shorter walks from Field
are those to the *Natrjral Bridge across the Kicking Horse and to the (2-3 hrs.)
Foisil Beds on Mt. Stephen (p. Tt2). — The Natural Bridge road (practicable
for driving) leads on to (5M.) *Emerald Lake (4220 ft.), at the fo<>t of Jf^
Wapta (p. 272), where a CJuxlet Hotel (from $ 3) has been constructed by the
C. P. B. to facilitate excursions in the Yoho Valley (see below), reached hence
by the Yoho Pasf (60(X) ft.). . Trout-fishing may be enjoyed in the lake, wbile
grouse and partridge abound in its vic^ty. A Swiss guide is sometimes
stationed at Emerald Lake in summer.
Another trail, beginning at the ITatural Bridge, ascends the Valley of
the Amisktoi Biverj. between the Van HorneBange (S.W.) and the President
Bange (N.E.), to (25 M.) the summit of the Amifkwi PasSy which affords a fine
view of Mts. Forbes, Walker, Uummery, and other giant peaks to the N.,
and also of the W. faces of Mts. Baker, Collie, and Habel. The AmitJcwi
Falls (800 ft.) are very striking. The pass connects with Blaeberry Greek
and the old Hotese Pau^ used in the early fur-trading days. —♦Yoho Valley.
This beautiful valley, with the environs of Field, has lately been made
a national park, the E. boundary of which marches with the W. boun-
dary of the Bocky Mts. Park (p. 259). It conttins several camps and is
traversed by a loop-trail (fine views), which runs high up on its W. side
along the E. face of the President Bange and returns along the winding
Yoho River through the wooded floor of the valley. The^ost stiiking
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
272 Route 55. MT. WAPTA. From Banff
points in the vaUey include the •Taiakkaw Falls, 1200 ft. in height 0/s day
from Field); the Twin Falls, dropping vertically for 400 ft. and continued
by a series of cascades (1 day from Field); iheFdll of the Wd9€i, between
Mt. Oordon and Mt. Balfour; and the Laughing Falls, seen from the lower
trail. The trip may be continued to the tongue of the Toho Olaeier, at
the head of the valley, amid snow-dad peaks, such as Mt. Habel (p. z7d),
Ht. Collie (p. 273), and Mt. Balfour (p. 273). A road is being made from
Field to the Toho Valley. — The Hoodoos, in the valley of the Bwosrfoot
(p. 278), between Mt. Vaux (p. 273) and the ChanceUor (10,760 ft.), mav be
reached from Field in 1/2 day. They consist of conglomerate pillars, 80 ft.
high, capped by immense boulders. The Beaverfoot Valley is a parti-
cularly good hunting-ground. — A good road (fine views) runs from Field
to (8 M.) Ottertail along the base of Mt. Dennis (see below) and in sight
of the Mt. Vaux Olaciers.
AsoEMTS. Ht. Field (8564 ft. ; 8Vt4 hrs.) affords a good training climb.
The route to Burgess Pass is followed to the N. to the top of the col,
whence the bridle-path is taken to the right until directly under the summit,
which is reached by a straight climb in about 1 hr., first over grass slopes,
then over tiresome screes, and finally over good but easy rocks. The *View8
of Mt. Stephen and the Cathedral, full in face across the Kicking Horse,
and' of the Yoho and Emerald Valleys on the N. and 8., are magnificent.
Xt. Wapta (9990 ft., 6-6 hrs.) may be combined with Mt. Field (3 hrs.
more) by following the snow-field that joins it with the summit of Mt Field
till we reach the base of the rock-wall. Messrs. James OtUram and /. H.
Scattergoody with the guide Christian Bohren, who made the first ascent in
1901, forced a way straight up the face, a route for experts only. An
easier way is found by skirting the base to a snow-bed in the hollow to
the K.W., which leads over screes and then rocks, to the summit. The
*View of the two valleys, the Takakkaw Falls, and the ice-field descending
from Mts. Daly and Niles is very fine.
Ht Burgess (9000 ft. \ 4V2-5Vs brs.) is ascended from' the left end of
Burgess Pass, and affords an unsurpassed view of Emerald Valley and
Lake, at the foot of a huge perpendicular predpice. The return may be
made down the steep slopes facing the Eickhig Horse Biver.
Ht Stephen (10,623 ft. ; 6 6 hrs., descent 34 hrs.), first ascended in 1887
by Mr. J. J. MeArthw, is the favourite dimb from Field. Though easy
to an adept, it requires a steady head. We follow a marked path to the
(2-3 hrs.) Fossil Beds (interesting trilobites and crystals), and then follow the
screes to the rocky ar§te that forms the sky-line as seen from the hotel.
Here we obtain a sudden view into the grand amphiUieatre to the right.
The ridge of this is followed pretty continuously, with interesting rock-work
and some giddy knife-edges and defts, to the summit-snows and the three
cairns. The 'View is superb, with the Selkirk Mts. (p. 273) to the W.
and the immense snow-fidd marking the summit of the Rockies to the N.
The OttertaU Mts. (p. 273) and Bow Range Q>. 268) are also well seen, while
Mt. Assiniboine (p. 262) is a noteworthy object to the S.E.
The Oathedral (10,286 ft. •, 7-8 hrs.), which towers above the raUway to
the N.E. of Mt. Stephen, was first ascended in 1901 by Mr. Jamu (hUram,
with the Swiss guides /. Bossoney and C. Elueker. We follow the railroad
to a point a little above the tunnd and then mount the slopes at the base
of the Cathedral Spires (10,100 ft. ; p. 271) to the N.W. ridge. We next
traverse screes at the base of the Spires to the last couloir before the
predpices of the main peak. The couloir leads to the little col on the
ridge connecting the Spires with the main peak. Hence the route leads
to the right, and the summit is retched by steep snow and rocks. It is
possible to combine the ascent of the Spires with the Cathedral intone long
day, but both are for experts only, with good guides. A louger but easy
route ascends from Hectur station (p. 270) up the E. slopes to the col.
Mts. Duehesnay, Denni», and Odiray are among the numerous mhior
peaks that may be climbed from Field, without the need of sleeping out
even for] a single night. — Ml. King or Carnarvon (9360 ft.), one of the
highest of the van Home Bange'^(p. 271), also comm'ands^'a splendid view
and may be ascended from Field in 7-8 hrs. Digitized by CiOOQIc
to Vancouver, GOLDEN. 66, Route, 273
The following peaks are ascended from the upper part of the Tobo
Valley (comp. p. 271). — Kt Habel (10,600 ft.; 6 hrs., descent 5 hrs.). The
route followed by M«t$rs. Edward Wkymper and Outrem in l\iOi led through
trees and up the glacier to the col (ca. 8700 ft.) to the N.E. of IfuukUed Peak
(9300 ft.), then over snow to the rocks of Mt. Habel, then up the glacier
on the 8. side, and finally over easy rocks and snow. Extensive panorama,
especial]y to the N. end N.W. — Kt. Collie (10,600 ft.; GVz hrs., descent
ii/4 hrs.), first ascended by the same party on Aug. 19th, 1901, commands a
similar view. — The Trolltinderne (9600 ft.), so called from their fancied
resemblance to the Norwegian peaks of that name, took the same party
4V« hrs. (return 2V2 hrs.) and afl'ord a fine view of Mt. Balfour. — Other
first ascents made in this district by ftlr. Outram in 1901 were Kiwetinok Peak
(960<) ft. ; 8 hrs. from cimp), the President (ca. 10,^00 ft. ; 3 hrs. ; good views),
and Angle Peak (ca. i)800 ft. *, 3 hrs.). Mr. Outram was also the first to traverse
Bal/our Pass (ca. 8400 ft.), a fine glacier-pass, leading from Toho Valley,
between Mts. Balfour and Hector, to Sector Lake and tbe Bow Valley (p. 269).
— Xt. Mummery (ca. 10,800 ft.), about 12 M. to the N.W. of Mt. Habel,
above the Blteberry Pass (p. 271), was first ascended on Aug. 10th, 1S06,
by Messrs. R. WulccU, W. R. Peabody^ and 8. Cahoty with C. Kauffmann
and O. F^ut. It commands a splendid distant view of the Selkirk Range.
None of these ascents should be attempted alone or by novices.
Beyond Field the line continues to descend through the valley
of the Kicking Hoise. To the right opens the Amiskwi Valley
(p. 271). We then cross the Ottertail (*View) and reach (59 M.)
OttertaU (3695 ft.). The most prominent summits of the Van Home
Mts. (r.) are Mt. Selwyn and Mt, King. To the left are the OttertaU
Mts,, culminating in Mt, Ooodsir (11,660 ft.; first ascended by Prof.
Fay and Prof. Parker, with Hasler and C. Kaufmann, in 1903) and
the glacier-scarred Mt. Vaux (10,850 ft. ; first ascended by Messrs.
Outram, Fay, and Scattergood, with Hasler, in 1901). Fine retro-,
spects. To the left (E.), opposite (66 M.) Learhchoil (3580 ft),
towers the precipitous Chancellor Peak (10,780 ft. ; first ascended
by Messrs. Outram, Scattergood, and Weed, with Hasler, in 1901),
near the junction of the Beaverfoot with the Kicking Horse The line
turns abruptly to the right (N.), round Mt, Hunter, and descends the
*LoweT Canon of the Kicking Horse which also turns to the N. To
the S. is the Beaverfoot Range. The train passes repeatedly hack and
forward over the whirling torrent and at places breaks through the
angles of the lofty hemming cliffs by short tunnels. The finest part
of this wonderful echoing canon is the lower end, near the mining
town of (86 M.) Golden (2580 ft.; Columbia, Kootenay, Queen,$ 2),
with 600 inhah., situated at the point where the Kicking Horse enters
the Columbia.
Steamers ply twice weekly in summer from Golden to (ca. 100 M.) Winder-
mere and Adela, on the Upper Columbia^ where they connect by tramway with
another steamer plying on Upper Columbia Lake to Thunder Hill and Canal
Flat. Here we connect (tramway) with yet another boat ascending the
Kootenay River to Fort Steele (see p. 267).
Our line turns abruptly to the right (N.) and descends the open
valley of the Columbia, here dividing the Rocky Mts., on the right,
from the ^Selkirk Mts., the fine outlines of which now rise to the
left. The light-green stripes mark the paths of avalanches (comp.
p. 296). 93 M. Moberley (2545 ft). Several saw-mills are passed.
Bakdbkbb's Canada. 3rd Edit. IBjOOqIc
274 Route 56. GLACIER HOUSE.
103 M. Donald (2680 ft.), once of importance as a C.P.R. divi-
sional point, is now almost deseitedf*
Beyond Donald we cioss the Columbia and thread a narrow rocky
•Gorge, with the river flowing furiously to our right. Emerging from
this ravine at (115 M.") Beavermouth (2435 ft.), we turn abruptly
to the left (S.), quit the Columbia, pass through the * Beaver Oate,
and ascend rapidly on the left bank of the impetuous Beaver River,
The strata are at right angles to the course of the stream and abso-
lutely vertical. Most of the gigantic trees with which the hills on
the opposite bank were clothed have been burned. At (119 M.) Six-
MUe Creek (2617 ft.), at the bridge over the Mountain Creeky 21/2 M.
beyond, and from a lofty bridge over a foaming cascade still farther
on, we have good yIqws of several peaks of the Selkirk Range, domi-
nated by the Matterhom-like Sir Donald (p. 277). Numerous side^
torrents are crossed, including the Stony Creek (3500 ft.), spanned
by a fine steel-arch truss-bridge, 336 ft. in span and 295 ft. high. At
(129 M.) Bear Creek (3673 ft.) we leave the Beaver, here nearly
1000 ft. below us, and ascend to the right through the wooded gorge
of the Bear Creek (gradient 1 : 45). Beyond this point the line is
enclosed by the mighty walls of Mt. Tupper (9222 ft ; p. 278), vdth
its bold crags, on the right, and Mt. Macdonald (9482 ft.), on the
left; but the snow-sheds (with a total length of 6 M.) are so con-
tinuous that glimpses only can be had of the fine scenery. — 136 M.
Rogers Pats (4351 ft.), named in honour of Major Rogers, the Ame-
rican engineer who in 1881 discovered the only feasible pass across
the Selkirks. The pass, with its wonderful mountain-scenery, has
been reserved as a National Park. The second-highest peak to the
N. at this point (Rogers Peak, 10,536 ft) has been named Swiss
Peak (10,616 ft.), in honour of Mr. Carl iSulzer of the Swiss Alpine
Club, who made the first ascent in 1890. Passengers for Glacier
House might leave the train here and walk the rest of the way (4 M.)
down thetrack(comp.p. 276).— At(137M.)'Scakir&5amm« (4361 ft.)
we reach the top of the pass and begin the descent on the other side,
where an additional summer- track obviates the tantalizing loss of
opportunities caused by the snow-sheds. To the right towers the
vast pyramid of Mt. Cheops (p. 277) ; to the left, Avalanche Mt.
(9387 ft.); in front rises Ross Peak (7718 ft.; first ascent, 1896),
with a large glacier on its E. slope. We now overlook the deep valley
of the /2Z«ei^/eica€t(*illy silly wat'), into which the train descends over
lofty bridges and through a series of wonderful loops and carves.
The IllecUlewaet Glacier (p. 276) comes into view on the left front.
139 M. Glacier House (4095 ft.), where a halt is made for dinner
by the trains in each direction, is a well-kept and recently much en-
larged hotel (from $ 372} meals $1), magnificently situated in the
heart of the Selkirks , near the foot of the IllecUlewaet Glacier.
f An interesting account of the engineering difficulties of the railway
from Donald to Bevelatoke is given in Mr. Wheeler's book (p. 375).
y Google J
yGoogk
SELKIRK RANGE. 55. BouU, 275
Every traveller should spend at least one day here; and the lover
of fine scenery and the monntain-climher will find strong induce-
ments to prolong their stay. Swiss guides (see p. 258) and all
requisites for mountain- climbing may be obtained here. Immediately
opposite the hotel is a pretty Cascade^ descending from a height of
about 1200 ft. through the trees on the lower part of Avalanche
Crest. To the right of this rise Eagle Peak (p. 278) and Sir Donald
(see p. 277), while farther to the right is the Glacier. To the left,
as we stand with our backs to the hotel, is Mt. Cheops^ and to the
right of this is the fine Hermit Range. Behind the hotel is the
heavily-timbered Jiff. Abbott. Boas Peak (p. 274) is not visible.
The annual snow-fall at the Glacier House averages 35 ft. The
beautiful yellow Erythronium giganteum is often found at Glacier,
shooting its leaves through the snow.
The.*6elkirk B«ngef occupies the region enclosed between the great
loop of the Columbia and the Kootenay River and is composed of a com-
plexity of minor ranges enclosing deep forest-clad valleys and rising to
rugged peaks adorned by silvery white snow-fields and glaciers. The
forests, owing to the greater moisture deposited on the Selkirk Range,
are more luxuriant than those in the Rockies, and for a similar reason
the snow-fields and glaciers are more extensive. The scenery, consequently,
is superb, and as the mountains are not of such stupendous magnitude as
to preclude exploration by the ordinary tourist there are few regions in
the world where the lover of the picturesque can make more delightful
exaursiona. At the same time, there are peaks to he scaled and glaciers
to be traversed which will call forth the best abilities of the mountaineer.
The patient and persevering sportsman may get bears and wild goats.
The artist and the botanist have a magnificent field to work in, and the
climate is unsurpassed of its kind.
The fine *Ulecillewaet Glacier will no doubt be the first object
aimed at on arrival at Glacier House. About V^"*/* ^'* ^^1 suffice for a
walk along the well-made track from the hotel to the foot of the glacier.
The path (sign-posts at doubtful points) leads to the right (S.) and crosses
the stream mm the Asulkan Valley. It then traverses the scene of an en-
ormous avalanche, of the force of which a lively idea is obtained from the
manner in which huge trees have been overthrown, tossed about, and piled
up one upon another. Farther on we cross the glacier- torrent, follow
its right bank , and soon leave the shade of the forest. The path now
forks. The branch to the right leads across the shingle-flats to the lower
end of the glacier, where the stream may be seen issuing from the ice
cave. Caution should he exercised here, as during the heat of the day
stones detached hy the melting of the ice often roll down the glacier and
fall off at its lower end. In Switzerland several fatal accidents have oc-
curred hy persons having been struck by such stones. The form of the
cave is constantly changing, owing to blocks of ice falling from its roof. It
is, therefore, unsafe to enter a glacier-cave except one artificially made,
as is sometimes done in the more solid portion of the glacier. The 'snout^
of the glacier is slowly but steadily receding — Returning to the point
where the path forked we may make a prolonged excursion up the moun-
f The following sketch of excursions among the Selkirk Mts. was
originally prepared for the first edition of this Handbook by the Rev. William
Spottwood Cfreen^ author of 'Among the Selkirk Glaciers' (1888), but has
since been cons^iderably expanded with the aid of Mr. A. 0. Wheeler,
Mr. W. S. Jackton (p. 269), and other mountain-climbers. The admirable
work by Mr. Wheeler, entitled 'The Selkirk Range' and published by the
Dominion Government (1905-6; illus. and with excellent maps), should be
consulted by everyone ipterested in the district. . OOCjIp
276 RouU55. AVALANCHE MT. From Banff
tain -side, above the glacier. The path ascends through alder-scrub and
banks rich in wild-flowers, and commands fine •Views of the glacier-
filled valley. An afternoon may thus be spent, without much fatigue, in
the midst of the grandest scenery. The circle of mountain peaks, which,
with immense precipices, curtail the outlook from Glacier House, will
attract deep interest. On the side of the lUecillewaet valley are Mt. Cheops
and the Hermit Range*, on the K. and E. Avalanche Mt., Eagle Peak,
and Ht. Sir Donald rise in great magnificence. The white snow-field or
n^v^ of title lUecillewaet Olacier forms the sky-line to Uie E.
A well-made and easv trail, beginning at the back of the hotel, ascends
through dense forest and over flowery slopes of green to (1 hr.) * Marion
Lake (5665 ft.), a placid Uttle tarn on theK. face of Mt. Abbott, reflecting
the forest and mountain-peaks to perfection. A path indicated by a board
to the right ascends hence to (5min.) *Obsertaiion Foint (5750 ft.), the view
from which, one of the most noteworthy accessible to ordinary tourists, in-
cludes Sir Donald, the gleaming lUecillewaet far below, Bog«rs Pass Village
(near the head of the pass), and the serrated, snow-clad, glader-hung Hermit
Range, meeting the sky-line on Uie N.
A good bridle-trail has been constructed to the top of the timber-line
on Avuanche Mt. (9337 ft.) and to the foot of the final rocky cone. The
top is reached from the Glacier House in 6 hrs. (return 3 hrs.) and com-
mands a splendid *View, induding at least 100 glaciers. On this trail is
a summer-house affording a good view of the Cascade (p. 275).
An easy and pleasant walk may be taken along the railway-track to
(2 M.) Selkirk Summit and (2 M.) Rogers Pau. We may ascend to the roof
of the long snow-shed just beyond the first bridge and follow it to the
other end. The ^Views all the way are superb. — The walk down the
track to see the *Loop (see p. 279) is also recommended.
The following five excursions may be made in one day each by
fairly good walkers making an early start.
1. AscBNT OF Mt. Abbott (8V2-5 hrs.). No single excursion gives are.
cently arrived visitor such an intimate acquaintance with the district as this*
From the hotel to (1 hr.) Marion Lake^ see above. The path now leads to
the left, along the shore of the lake. The mountain rise» to a long rocky
ridge in steep precipices, up which, however, there are several practicable
lines of ascent. The easiest will be found by bearing away to the right.
On striking the ridge it may be followed along |to the S. The *View from
the top of Mt. Abbott (8081 ft.) is a complete panorama of the surrounding
peaks , including Mt. Bonney , rising from its glacier to the S.W., Sir
Donald to the E., and the peaks of the Dawson Range, showing over the
nearer glacier-clad ranges to the S. To the N., 4000 ft. below us, is the
deep ravine through which the Hlecillewaet river winds.
2. Gbbat Smow-Fisld of the Illbcillbwaet Glaoieb. This expedition
should not be undertaken by those quite unacquainted with the dangers
of glacier-travel unless under proper guidance. The ascent is made along
the path leading to the glacier and continued up the steep moraine on
the right bank of the ice-fall. As we approach the mountain-spur coming
down from the direction of Sir Donald some few steps may have to be
cut if the snow is not in good order for walking, but in 4-5 hrs. from
the hotel the upper snow is reached at Perley Rock^ and by avoiding the
crevasses which exist we may cross its undulating surface and from any
of the small eminences which bound it on the E. obtain a magnificent
*View of the Dawson Range, the Prairie Hills, and Bald Mt. beyond Beaver
Biver. Ample time should be allowed for the return-journey, as the snow-
slopes may require more care in the afternoon than in the morning, and
it would not do to get benighted amongst the boulders of the moraine.
3. The Asulkan Pass. The valley leading to this pass is one of the
gems of the district and is reached from the hotel by a good bridle-path.
The path (no guide necessary to the foot of the glacier), after traversing
a forest-clad ravine and crossing the river more than once, enters a wide
amphitheatre, where grassy levels, sombre forests, and precipices down
which innumerable sparkling cascades plunge from the snow-slopes and
glaciers above , combine to form a perfect fairy-land of beauty. At the
to Vancouver. MT. SIR DONALD. 55, Route. 277
upper end of the valley the track climbs a steep mountain -spar, and
leaving the forest the traveller is confronted by the high moraine of the
'Asnllukn Olaoier. Marmots abound^ and their shrill cries of alarm may
be heard on all sides. Flowers such as the bright red (kutilMa miniata
give brilliance to the scant vegetation, which disappears altogether ere
the ice is reached. The glacier must now be crossed, dangerous crevasses
avoided, and the ascent continued to the ^Asulkan Pass (7716 ft.). The
DatPMon Range^ with 2ft». Fox and Donkin as outliers, is immediately in
front. The Oelki€ Olader^ the main source of the large Irieomappkux or
Fith Rher^ fills the deep ravine below. Mountain-goats may be met with
on the slopes on the 8. side of the pass. Those who are not prepared
to camp out for the night must turn here, the whole expedition (to this
point and back) taking 10-13 hrs.
4. Caves of Cheops. A bridle-path leads to the W. from the Glacier
House to (4 M.) the Cougar Brook Water Tankj and then up the Cougar Vallep
to the (2 M.) *0ave8 of Oheops, or Deutschman** Cavei, situated at the foot
of Mt. Cheops (8606 ft.) and formed by the underground passage of the
Cougar Brook through a ridge of dark blue limestone. About 1 M. of
passages has been explored. The walls are often covered with a flores-
cent deposit of carbonate of lime resembling the heads of cauliflowers. Beau-
tifal effects are produced by lighting up some of the chambers, and the
roar of Cougar Brook and the subterranean falls is very- impressive. Among
the chief points are Avemut^ with a waterfall: a funnel of solid rock
rising to a height of 120 ft. ; the Fit, with a slab bearing a cross, perfect
as if cut by a chisel ^ the Corkscrew \ the Ooat Falls; and the Bridal Chamber,
— The upper valley of the Cougar Brook, just beyond the caves, affords
splendid mountain-views. It abounds in lovely wild flowers and harbours
numerous marmots, gophers, and little chief hares or pikas (Lagomys
prineeps). — There is a log-hut at the Caves, where the night may be
spent when necessary.
6. Bbae Cbbbk, flowing through the Rogers Pass Valley, at the S. base
of the Hermit Range. The beautiful valley of this stream (3 M. from the
Glacier House) is now traversed by a bridle-path, constructed to facilitate
the asceut of Mt. Griztlp (9061 ft.; first ascended in 1905 by Rev. J. E.
Bushndl and Dr. A. Eggers). This trip may be easily combined with the
last by passing the night in the above-mentioned log-but.
The higher mountain-peaks of this range must be attempted only by
those who have had considerable experience in mountain-climbing.
Mt. Sib Donald. On July 26th, 1890, the first ascent of *Kt. 6ir
Donald (10,808 ft.) was accomplished by Messrs. Hnber and Suiter, of the
Swiss Alpine Club, accompanied by a packer from Donald named Cooper.
They started from a camp below the Clio's of the mountain facing Glacier
Crest, and, ascending by the small glacier to the S. W. of the peak,
crossed over to the 8. B. ridge of the mountain, by which they reached
the summit in 7 hrs. from their camp. The descent took much longer.
The second ascent was not made till nine years later, but it has since been
made several times, on four occasions by ladies (Mrs. Berens^ Miss Ray-
mond^ Miss Benham^ and Miss Tuzo). In 1908 it was ascended by Herr
E. Tewes of Bremen, with the guides Feuz and Bohr en ^ vi& the N. arSte
(8 hrs. *, very difficult). The usual route follows the left bank of the
Uledllewaet to the foot of the moraine, which rises in a perfect ridge to
the glacier } the latter is considerably cut up into more or less concealed
crevasses. Access to the rOcks is best obtained by the patch of snow im-
mediately under the little point on the sky-line, formerly known as
Green's Peaky after the Rev. William Green (p. 278), who was beaten here
in his attempt on the mountain. A tunnel is constantly found here, which
leads at once to easy rocks. If this cannot be reached, a way across the
bergschrund must be sought to the right, necessitating some awkward scramb-
ling along a perpendicular rock-face. In the hollow of the mountain where
it joins this ridge, stones are perpetually falling from the overhanging cliff,
demanding great caution. The ascent is completed by the ridges on the
face fronting the hot^ to the urSte, a short distance from the summit.
The rocks on the face are apt to be badly glazed. A knife-edge w{th sheer
278 Route 56. ROGERS PEAK. From Banff
precipices on either side connects the true summit with the one Tisible from
the hotel. The descent by the same ronte and retam may take 4-6 hrs. —
ITone but experts, with good guides, should attempt Sir Donald. The
climber may be watched for almost the whole way through the big tele-
scope at the Glacier House.
Mt. Bonnbt. This mountain was climbed for the first time on Aug.
9th, 1888, by the Jteo. Wm. 8. Oreen and the R6v. ffenry Svanty, and for
the second time on Sept. 2nd, 1804, by MUs Henriata Tuzo, After a prelim-
inary reconnaissance on the 7th, the ascent was made from the valley
opening at ^Th6 Loop" by the first small glacier (now called Oreen* i Olacier)
descending from Mt. Green (8860 ft.). The chief difficulty in the ascent
was climbing a sharp peak to the N.W. of the main summit, which had
to be traversed ere the summit of Mt. Bonney (10,290 ft.) could be reached.
From a camp near the head of the valley the ascent and descent occu-
pied about 18 hrs., including an hour spent on the summit.
Sogers Peak (10,586 ft.) was first ascended in 1896 by Mesvt, Abbot,
Little, and Thompson, from the station at Rogers Pass. It is connected by
a rocky arSte with Steiu Peak (10,515 ft. •, p. 2TI). — The amphitheatre below
Rogers Peak (reached from Glacier House in 3-4 hrs. by a good bridle-
path) shows excellent examples of gladial striation. At the timber-line is
a cabin, built to facilitate the ascent ot the adjoining peaks. — The huge
mass of Xt. Tupper (9222 fl.), forming the other extremity of the Swiss
Bange, was ascended for the first time by Mr. Wolfgang Koehler of Leipzig
(Germany), with £. and 6'. Feuz, in the summer of 1906.
Mt. Bagheera (9096 ft.), the westernmost of two lofty peaks on the N.
side of the head of Gougar Brook, the massif on the IT. side of Cougar
Valley, was first climbed by Mr. A. 0. Wheeler in 1902. The peak is
reached by mounting the snow-slopes directly below the notch that sepa-
rates Bagheera from Catamount Peak. A fine bed of red snow (caused by
the presence of the tiny plant, Protococcus nivalis) was found here. Thence
easy rocks lead to the arlte, which is followed to the summit, traversing
the low E. peak. The descent may be jnade straight down the precipitous
rock-face to the foot, giving some sporting climbing, with firm rocks. Fine
view from the summit, especially of the section usually hidden by the
Swiss Bange. It is best to camp the night before at the wonderful Cavet
of Cheops (p. 2T7j, combining the two expeditions.
Mt Macdonald (9482 ft.; 8-9 hrs.), forming the S. wall of Rogers Pass,
is ascended from Rogers Pass Station (p. 274) through a deep couloir, over
three snow-slopes, and up an easy arSte.
Mt Dawson (two peaks, Mt. Easier, 11,118 ft., Mt. Feuz 10,982 ft. ; 5-6 hrs.X
first ascended by Professors Fay and Parker in 1899 and by Miss Oertrude
Benham in 1904. The ascent is begun at the camp near the Dawson Glacier,
the left moraine of which is followed to the Dawson Amphitheatre. We
scale the end- wall of this, just to the N.W. of which is the TwisUd Rock,
a curious example of contorted strata, about ICXK) ft. in height. We next
bear to the right, over n6y6, to the E. ardte, leading to the summit. The
*View is very extensive.
Mt Belwyn, formerly named Mt. Detille (11,013 ft. ; 6*6 hrs.), first climbed
by Messrs. Topliam and Forster in 1890, rises just to the E. of Mt. Dawson,
and is ascended from the above-mentioned camp. The route for the most
part is the same as that for Bit. Dawson, but, instead of turning to the right,
we keep straight on to the ridge connecting the two mountains. We then
descend a steep snow-slope to the foot of the peak of Mt. Selwyn, whence
the summit is gained without much trouble. The view is fine.
Mt. Donkin (9694 ft.; 3-4 hrs.) at the W. end of the Dawson Bange, is
scaled with comparative ease from the Donkin Pass, and commands a splendid
view, including Mt. Purity and the Bishops' Bange. — Mts. Purity, Fox.
and Sugar Loc^ (10,732 ft.) were also first climbed by Messrs. Topham ana
Forster in 1890. This region was reached by following the Prairie Hills to
the E. of Beaver River and striking into the main range far to the S. —
*Olacier Crest (7420 ft. : V* ^ay) commands a close and magnificent view
of the lUecillewaet and Asulkan glaciers.
Among other good ascents to be made frmn the(^lM^^ are
to Vancouver. LOOP. 65, Route, 279
Aft, Afion (8423 ft.), Coiiw and Follux (9106 ft. k 9176 ft.), the Rampart
(8476 ft.), the Z>ome (9039 ft,}, Eagle Peak (9858 ft.), Uto Peak (9610 ft.), and
Mt. Steanzy (9562 ft.). Though the average height is lower than in the
Kockies proper, these hUls, as a rule, have firmer and more reliable rocks
and give excellent training for ttie climber.
Besides the expeditions which may be made in the section of country
through which the railway runs, other portions of the Selkirk rang^
may be entered by ascending the Columbia by the steamer from Golden
(p. 273) and working up any of the valleys which drain towards the head-
waters of the Columbia or Eootenay. For hunting purposes these routes
will probably be the best, but the difficulty in the way of reaching the
higher portions of the range will be much greater, except in the SpUli^
maeheen VaUey^ up which a bridle-trail now leads to a mine.
GontinniDg the descent from the Glacier House, we soon Teach
the *Loopt 'where the line makes several startling turns and twists,
first crossing a valley leading down from the Mt. Bonney glacier,
touching for a moment on the base of Ross Peak, then doubling back
to the right a mile or more upon itself to within a biscuit's-toss *,
then sweeping around to the left, touching Cougar Mt., on the other
side of the lUeciUewaet, crossing again to the left, and at last shoot-
ing down the valley parallel with its former course. Looking back,
the railway is seen cutting two long gashes, one above the other, on
the mountain-slope, and farther to the left, and high above the long
snow-shed, the summit range, near Rogers Pass, is yet visible, with
Sir Donald overlooking all*. — The lllecillewaet is a slender moun-
tain-torrent, foaming over its rocky bed , first on one side and then
on the other. The water is at first a dull green from the glacial
mud, but it becomes much clearer as it descends. Beyond (146 M.)
Ro9s Peak Siding (3456 ft.) we reach a long tunnel-like snow-shed.
At (164 M.) IllecUlewaet (iliO ft.) are several silver-mines. About
5 M. farther on we look down, on the right, into the depths of the
* Albert Canon^ where the lllecillewaet foams through a *flume' 20 ft.
wide and 160 ft. below us. At (161 M.) Albert Canon Station
(2225 ft) an extra-engine is put on to push east-bound trains up
the ascent. 171 M. Twin Butte (1905 ft.) takes its name from the
huge double summit to the left, now named Mt, Mackenzie (8065 ft.).
The line has here gained the level of the river. To the right towers
the fine peak of Clachnacudainn (8676 ft.), named after the famous
*stone of the tubs* at Inverness (see Baeddcer^s Great Britain). The
valley contracts once more to a narrow gorge, or *box-cafion', through
which there is barely room for the river and railway to pass side by side,
and expands again as the lllecillewaet nears its end in the Columbia.
182 M. Bevelstoke (1500 ft.; *Hotel Bevelstoke, near the rail,
station, from $3; Victoria, $2V2-3; Vniony $ IVr^; Central, $2;
Columbia, $ 1-1V2)» » divisional station, lies on the left bank of the
Columbia, which has made a wide circuit round the N. end of the
Selkirks, and here rejoins the railway, 1090 ft. lower than at Donald
(p. 274) and much wider. The town, with (1 901) 3003 inhab., carries on
a considerable supply-trade with the mining districts of the Columbia,
both to the N. and S. (comp. pp. 287, 288), and has a large smelter.
280 Route 55. SICAMOUS JUNCTION. From Banff
Bevelstoke is a good centre for shooting, fishing, and other excursions.
Among the nearer points of interest are the *HleciHeiffaet CaHon (2Vs M.),
Wniianuon't Lake (4M.), Sttver Tip Falls (8 M.), Eagle Pass}liW.), 'Jordan Fast
(N.W \ Mt. Oachnaeudainn (^. 219), and ML Mackenzie (p. 279). Information
is willingly given by the Tourist Association.
From Beyelstoke to Rohson, Nelson, and the Kootenay District, see B. 56.
Leaving Revelstoke, we now cross the Columbia, here about
300 yds. wide. Mt. Beghie (8835 ft.), rising to the left, is the
loftiest summit of the Gold or Colnmbia Bangs, the third of the
four gieat parallel mountain - ranges in the Cordilleran section of
Canada. The Eagle PasSj which we enter at once, affords an easy
passage across this range, forming a striking contrast to the enor-
mous difficulties that had to be overcome in crossing the Rookies
and the Selkirks. The summit is reached near (190 M.) ClanwUliam
(1830 ft.), only 330 ft. above Revelstoke. Four picturesque lakes,
Summit (1805 ft.), Victoria, Three ValUy (1630 ft.), and Griffin,
here occupy the floor of the valley and force the railway to hew a
path for itself out of the mountain - side. The valley is covered
with spruce, hemlock, cedar, Douglas fir, and other large trees.
From Griffin Lake issues the Eagle River, along which we now
descend. At (210 M.) Oraigiltdchie (1230 ft.) the last spike of the
C.P.R. was driven on Nov. 7th, 1885, the rails from the E. and
W. meeting here. We cross an arm of Shutwap Lake,
217 M. Sicamons Junction (1155 ft. ; *Hotel Sicamous, owned by
the C. P. R., from $ 3, often full), a small town named from an Indian
word meaning the 'Narrows'. It lies on the *Great Shnswap Lake, a
singular body of water lying among the mountain-ridges like a huge
octopus, sending off long narrow arms in all directions. The coast-
line exceeds 200 M. in length. Sicamons is one of the finest sport-
ing centres in Canada, the objects of the chase including caribou
and deer. The fishing is excellent The Shuswap Indians occupy
a reservation to the W. of the lake (see p. 281).
FsoH SiGAHouB JUNCTION TO Okanaoan Lanoino, 51 H., Cofi. P(M;.
Railway in 8 hrs. (fare $ 2.05). — This line runs to the S., first along Lake
Mara and then np the Shuswap River, traversing a district known, from its
fertility, as the ^Garden of British Golumhia.* It is occupied by farmers
and ranchmen and affords excellent deer-shooting. At (28 H.) Enderby we
quit the Shuswap. 82 M. Armstrong (500 inhab.) is another thriving little
market-town. Near (46 M.) 7«mon (Kalamalka, $2V2-3; Coldstream, $1-2),
the chief distributing centre, is a huge farm (18,000 acres) belonging to
Lord Aberdeen, with magnificent orchards and large quantities of horses,
cattle, sheep, and poultry. The present terminus of the railway is at (51 H.j
Okanagan Landing, at the head of Okan&gan Lake (1130 ft.), a narrow sheet
of water 70 M. long and about 8 M. wide. Steamers ply hence thrice
weekly to Kdowna, Peachland (Miller's, $2), JSummerland (Summerl&nd,
$2-2V2i new Baptist college), and Penticton (Penticton, from $2), at the foot
of the lake. The climate in this region is wonderfully mid, and large
quantities of apples, pears, plums, peaches, apricots, and cherries are raised.
The beautiful wild fiowers alone make this trip worth making in summer.
Near Kelowna is another fruit-farm belonging to Lord Aberdeen. To the
S. of the lake are several mining camps. — Penticton is to be connected
by railway with Midway (p. 288) and Spence's Bridge (p. 282).
Beyond Sicamons Junction the railway vrinds round various arms
to Vancouver, KAMLOOPS. 55. Route, 281
of Lake Shuswap, the scenery of which recalls the Scottish lochs.
Beyond the Salmon Arm we leave the lake, to cross the intervening
ridge of Notch HUl (1690 ft.), but regain it at (267 M.) 8hu9wap,
on the so-called Little Shuswap Lake. From the W. end of the lake
issues the South Thompson River, a wide and deep stream, theS. bank
of which we skirt. The valley widens, and signs of settlement and
cultivation reappear, forming a pleasant contrast to the mountain-
wilds we have been traversing. The villages of the Shuswap Indians
are on the farther bank (comp. p. 280). 283 M. Ducks,
301 M. Kamloops (1160 ft.; Dominion, Grand Pacific, $ 2; Rail.
Restaurant)^ a town of (1901) 1594 inhab., is a divisional station,
the centre of supply for a large mining and grazing district, and the
seat of carriage-works, a soda-water factory, saw-mills, aiid a tannery.
Its name, meaning 'confluence', comes from its position at the junc-
tion of the N. and S. branches of the Thompson. Opposite, in the
angle formed by the two rivers, lies an Indian village, at the base
of PauVs Peak (3670 ft.). Kamloops was founded by the H. B. Co.
Those who stop at Kamloops should visit Dufferin Hill (2830 ft.), 81/2 M.
to the W., which commands a splendid *View. The summit may be reached
on horseback, but drivers have several hundred feet to climb from the road.
From Q,uilchtnna, on Nicola Lake, 7 M. to the E. of Nicola Village,
a main trail leads to the S. to (ca. 50 M.) AHson^i (Vermilion Forit). in
the Similkameen \Disirict (guide and camping - outfit necessary). Indian
guides may be obtained here for the Athtnoulou Mis., which have recently
been visited by several parties in search of mountain-sheep and deer.
The Similkameen District may also be reached from Hope (p. 283).
Below Kamloops the Thompson widens into Kamloops Lake
(1120 ft.), a hill-girt sheet of water 17 M. long and 1-2 M. wide.
The railway skirts the S. bank, threading several short tunnels. —
336 M. Savonasj at the lower end of the lake. At low water China-
men and Indians may now be seen along the Thompson and the
Fraser, engaged in gold-washing. The railway between this point
and Port Moody (p. 284) was built by the Dominion Government.
Beyond this point we continue to follow the Thompson River,
which flows through a series of deep rocky *Canons, presenting some
of the most striking scenery on the continent. The train runs along
a ledge cut out on the left side of the valley, high above the river.
The colouring and formation of the cliffs are most varied.
358 M. Ashcroft (1006 ft. j Ashcroft Hotel, mediocre) is the entre-
p6t for the Cariboo District (p. 282) and the starting-point of the
stages running into it. Pop. (1901) 475.
The following detour is commended to the notice of those Who wish
to vary the monotony of railway-travelling and do not fear a little fatigue.
Enquiries about the coaches should be made on the spot, as their times
are liable to change from year to year. There are now fair inns at the chief
stations. — From Ashcroft we take the st ige of the British Columbia Ex-
press Co. (Mon. A Frid. in summer; in winter Mon. only) for (14 M.) ffat
Creek and (40 M. ; ISVa hrs.) Lillooet (Pioneer Hotel)^ finely situated on
the Fraser River, here crossed by a bridge. It lies in a good farming district,
and its sporting possibilities include deer, bear, mountain goat and sheep,
grouse,and ducka. From Lillooet a bridle-path descends along the left bank
of the Fraser to (ca. 45 M.) Lytton (p. 282), where we rejoin the railway.
282 Route 66. SPENOE'S BRIDGE. From Banff
From Hat Creek the main service of the British Columbia Express Co.
runs to the N. to (285 M.) Barkerville (see below; 8Vs daysifare from Ash-
croft $ 42.60). The chief intermediate stations are Clinton 03 M. from Ash-
croft; fkre $5; Clinton Hotel), the seat of a Government Agent and a
distributing point for the mining districts 2 Lae La Haehe (120 M. ; fare $ 16} ;
One Hundred and Fifty Mile House ($22.50^ IV2 day); Soda Cretk (166 M.;
$ 28) ; and Quemelle (^ M. ; $ 87; 21/2 days). Barkerville^ situated on Tft7-
Uafns Creek, at the end of the (Cariboo Road, is the seat of the Govern-
ment Assay Office for the Oariboo or Upper Frater Begion, tiie scene of
the great gold-mining excitement of 85 years ago. The scores of thousands
of miners and their followers that then crowded into the Cariboo district
have long since left it, but in 1901 it still contained a population of
3600 souls, partly engaged in farming and partly in gold-mining of a quieter
and more scientific stamp. The value of the gold produced in the CJariboo
District since 1868 is estimated at $ 60,000,000 (12,000,000/.). — From Clinton
(to which an extra service runs from Ashcroft on Wed.) a branch-line runs
to AlkaU Lake. Other branch-lines run from One Hundred and Fifty Mile
House to Horge Fly and to QuetneUe Forkt^ and from Soda Creek to Alexis,
At Ashcroft the river and railway turn to the S. (left). Ahout
3 M. farther on we pass through the wild *Black Canon, — 383 M.
Sptnct's Bridge (776 ft.), at the mouth of the Nicola Bioer, takes
its name from the old Cariboo road bridge over the Thompson.
Fbou Spbnob's BaiDOB to Nioola, ca. 60 M., Canadian Pa^e RaUwxif
in 8V2 hrs. (fare $ 2). » This new line follows the ITicola Biver, disclosing
tome fine scenery and affording an opportunity to see the interior plateau-
country of British Columbia. Nicola lies on Nicola Lake (steamers) in a
good sporting district. — Contemplated extension to Jft'dwoy, see p. 288.
Below (390 M.) Drynoch (760 ft.) we pass through the grand
* Thompson Canon, with its fantastic rocks and varied colouring.
The Coast or Cascade Mis. now rise ahead of us.
At (405 M.) Lytton (695 ft.) the Thompson joins the Fraser
Biver , its pure green stream long refusing to mix with the turbid
yellow water of the latter.
The Frater, the chief river of British Columbia, rises on the E. slope
of the Rocky Mts., in about 63** N. lat., not far from the source of the
Athabasca (p. 264). It flows at first towards the IT.W., then turns sharply
upon itself and runs nearly due 8. for about 300 M., finally bending to
the W., cutting through the 8. part of the Coast Range, and entering the
Gulf of Georgia (p. 289) after a course of over 600 M. It was reached in
1793 by Alex. Mackensie, who took it for part of the Columbia, but is named
from Simon Frater, of tne N.W. Fur Co., who explored it to its mouth in
1808, in the face of enormous difficulties from natural causes and hostile
Indians. Above Lillooet (p. 281) the river is navigable; and steamers
ascend thence to the Cariboo District (see above).
The Ooast Range, which we reach at the Fraser River, is often im-
properly regarded as a continuation of the Cascade Range of Oregon and
Washington, from which it is both orographically and geologically distinct.
It really begins almost exactly on the S. boundary of British Columbia
and runs thence to thelT.W. for 900 M., with an average width of 100 M.
Many of its summits are 7-8000 ft. high, while some exceed 9000 ft. The
rocks composing it are chiefly granite. Most of the range is densely wooded.
The largest of its numerous glaciers are those descending to the sea on
the Alaska coast (comp. pp. 801, 804).
We now descend the *Orand Canon of the Fraser, by which
the river pierces the Coast Range (see above). The river is com-
pressed into a narrow bed far below the railway and rushes with
tremendous rapidity. The cliffs on either side rise for hundreds of
to Vancouver. NORTH BEND. 55, Route, 283
feet. The line follows the E. bank for about 6 M. , then crosses the
gorge by a lofty cantilever bridge, and ihieads a tunnel. High up
on- the E. side of the river runs the old Oovemment Bead to Cariboo
(p. 282), which, about 6 M. below (411 M.) CUco^ is 1000 ft. above
the surface of the water. The cafion grows narrower and deeper as
we proceed. Among the objects seen from the car-windows are
Chinamen washing for gold, Indians spearing or fishing for salmon,
bright red split-salmon drying on frames, Chinese cabins, and Indian
villages with their beflagged graveyards. Lower down, the river con-
tains large sturgeon as well as salmon. — 421 M. Keeftn,
432 M. Worth Bend (495 ft. ; *Fraier Canon House, from $ 3,
meals 75 c. ; Mountain Hotel, $ 2), a railway divisional point, lies
at a point where the walls of the cafion recede a little. The sports-
man or angler will find comfortable quarters here. '— About 4 M.
farther on, at Boston Bar, with a deserted town on the E. bank,
begins the wildest part of the cafion, the river rushing tumultuously
through its narrow rock-cribbed bed 200 ft. below the railway.
Numerous short rock-tunnels are passed in rapid succession; and
names like Eellgate Bapids and Black Canon mark the character of
the scenery. At (448 M.) Spuzzum the gorge is crossed by the grace-
ful suspension-bridge of the old 'tote' road (see above), which now
runs alongside the railway. It is in a very dilapidated condition and
is hardly used except as an Indian trail. At the foot of the cafion,
just beyond a longish tunnel, lies (458 M.) Yale (220 ft. ; Hotel),
an old trading-town, finely situated on a bench at the foot of the
mountains, at the head of the navigation of the Lower Fraser. The
valley now loses its cafion-like character, and the river becomes
wider and more placid. To the left the silver-bearing Hope Peaks
rise above the village of (472 M.) Hope (200 ft.), which lies on the
E. bank of the river.
Excellent trout-fisliing is obtained in the Mcolume River, which joins
the Fraser here. — A picturesque trail, crossing a rugged watershed at a
height of 5800 ft,, leads from Hope to the Similkameen DUirict (p. 281).
The railway and river here turn to the right ("W.), completing
the passage of the main ridge of the Coast Bange. The valley con-
tinues to expand , and signs of civilized cultivation become more
and more frequent. 480 M. Buhy Creek is named from the garnets
found near it. Fine views are enjoyed of various spurs of the Coast
Range. — 489 M. Agassiz (50 ft. ; Bella Vista Hotel), with a Govern-
ment experimental farm, is the station for Harrison Hot Springs
(St. Alice Hotel, from $2), at the foot of *Harri8on Lake, 6 M. to
the N. (stage $ 1). On the opposite bank of the Fraser rises Cheam
Peak, A small steamer plies on Harrison Lake. A well-preserved
mummy of an Indian chief (prob. ICOO years old) was found on the
shore of this lake in 1899. — Near (498 M.) Harrison MUls (40 ft.),
we cross the glacial-green Harrison Biver, here expanded to a lake,
just above its confluence with the Fraser. This offered the only
Digitized by VjOOQIC
284 SauU 55. NEW WESTMINSTER.
practicable approach to the Cariboo Tegion before the opeaiiic of tte
Fraaer rovte in 1864. — Beyond (507 M.) Nieo mm ire obtais a
distant riew of the grand and isolated white cone of iff. Bofter (pl2B9%
617 M. Minion Jmnetion is the starting-point of a line rwawng
the Fraser and nmning to (10 M.) Smnas Otifj on the IntemattmiaT
frontier, where connection is made with railways to New WMcofla,
Everett, Seattle, and other United States points. Retnin-tickets aie ia>
sned at Montreal, New York, Chicago, etc. , allowing traTelleis to travel
one way through the United States vii this ronte. — Other fine Tiews
of Mt. Baker (left) are obtained as we proceed. 527 M. Wkotmodt;
636 M. Hammond, with brick-yards. We cross the Pitt BHer and
traTerse the PUt Meadows (pastures and hay-land). — 543 M. Wert-
mintter Junction (hotel), for a short line to (9 M.) New WcrtMOMtar.
Vew Westaiaster (Gidekom\ $3; Colomiai Ho., $2; cab firom nilwj
or ferry to hotel 50 c), a eity with (1901) 6499 inhab., pleasaatly iitufted o*
the right bank of the Fra$er Riwer, about 15 K. from its moma, is &e
oldest settlement in this region, dating from 1853, and carries on a larfe
business in salmon-eanning and the sawing and shipping of Immber. The
Fra^'er is crossed here by a bridge, boilt by the Dominion Oorenuneai at
a cost of $ i,00OfiCO. The industrial establishments of the dty include iron-
works, foundries, machine'Shops, carriage -works, a brewery, a dittntery,
tannery^ mill, etc ; and the total ralne of their output in 1901 was $ l;Q39l,7&
Westminster was the capital of British Columbia for seTcral years, aad
contains the Provincial FenilenHarf and Insane AsjfUim, the Ropal HmpiiaL,
and other public institutions. Queen't Park^ 80 acres in area, contaiBs
athletic grounds and exhibition-buildings. The CantegU PubUc LArmy is
well equipped. Steamers ply hence to Victoria (p. 2Bd)y Vancouver (see
belowK Kanaimo (p. 294), CkiUiwaek (up the Fraser Biver), and Stereston
(p. 287). A Tisit should be paid to one of the canning factories, of wkick
there are about 40 within easy reach, mainly on the Fraser, between the
city and the Strait of Geo^a. This is an interesting though not Tery ap-
petizing experience; but eren the most fastidious may risit a cold storage
depdt, to which the fish are transfnrred direct firom the boat. Longer ex-
cursions may be made to (6 M ) Burrard Inlet (see below), IHti Lake (20 H.),
and Boundarjf Bap (21 IL). — At BvnuAf, adjoining Kew Westminter, laige
quantities of strawberries are grown.
Onr line now bends to the right and mns through wood to (548 M.)
Port Moody, situated at the head of Burrdrd Jnlet, an arm of the
Golf of Georgia, and long the Pacific torminus of the raUway. It is
frequented for its bathing. Thence the line skirts the S. shore of
the inlet, with its densely wooded shores, aboTe which tower snow-
capped mountains. 556 M. Hastings,
560 M. Vaneonver. — Hotela. *Hotel Vahcodtes (P1. a; B, 3), witk
fine Tiew from tower (see p. 285), from $ S^/t\ Badmihtoh (PI. b; B, S),
$ 2-3; CoMMEKCiAL (PI. c; B, 8), from $ 2; M^tbopolb (PI. d; B, C, 3),
from $2; Lslaho (PI. fi B, 3), 630 Hastings St.. 31V»-2; Doiuhioh (PI, g;
C, 3), 214 Abbott St., k! fiim 75 c.
Tramways (electric) run through the principal streets O cO »nd to
(12 M.; V4 hr.) New WeiinUneler (see above; beyond PI. A, 4; retum-ilsre
60 c.). — Oabs meet the chief trains and steamboats. Fare from railway-
station or wharf to hotel 26 c.; per hr. $ 1, per day $ 2Vr5>/t.
Steamers ply daily to Victoria (p. 289) and Nanakno (p. 294); also to
San Francisco, Seattle, Skagwxy^ Lad^smUh, and other Alaskan ports. Smallar
steamers run to ffotec Sound (return-fare $ 1) , the North Arm (return-fare
60c.), Seehelt (an old Indian village, now a summer-resort),^. --t The line
yGoogk
yGoogk
VANCOUVER. 55. Route, 285
steamships of the C. P. E. Go. start liere every three or four weeks for Japan
and CJtina (to Tokohama, 4280 H., in 14 days; to Shanghai^ four, and to
Hongkong^ eight days more) and also in the middle of each month for
Honolulu and Australia. — Terry to North Vancouver j see p. 286. — Small
Boats 25 c. per hr., $ 1-7 per day.
Poat Office (PI. B, 8), Granville St. (new post-office in progress at the
comer of Hastings and Granville Sts.). — C. P. R. Telegraph Co.. at the station
(PI. B, 3). — Vancouver DUIrict Telegraph A Delivery Co.j 306 Abbott St.;
Dominion Express Co. (PI. 24; B. 3), Granville St. ; Great Northern Express Co.,
440 Hastings St. — Telephone Co., Le Fevre Block, Hastings St.
Theatres. Vancouver Opera House (PI. 23 ; B, 3), Granville St. ; People's
Theatre (PI. 22; B, 3), cor. Pender & Howe Sts.
Oonaula. United States, Mr. L. Edtein Dudley; French, Mr. Duchastel
de Montrouge; German, Mr. J, Wulffsohn. — Tourists" Aid Association (PI. 25;
B, 3), 439 Granville St. — Vancouver Club (PI. 17 ; B, 3), Le Fevre Block,
Hastings St.; Terminal Club (PI. 16; B, 3), Hastings St.; Vancouver Tachi
Club.
Vancouver y named, like Vancouver Island (p. 292), after the
British seaman who explored Puget Sound in 1793, is beautifully
situated on the S. shore of Burrard Inlet, on a narrow neck or
peninsula surrounded by water on three sides. Though there were a
few settlers here at an earlier period , VauQOUYer practically dates
from 1885, when it was chosen as the terminus of the C. P. R. In
1886, when it contained 600 inhab., the whole town was destroyed
by Are. In 1887 the population had risen to 2000, in 1888 to 6000,
in 1891 to 13,685, and in 1901 to 26,133, while in 1905 it contained
45,000 inhabitants. Among these are many Chinese. In the sub-
stantial character of its buildings and the goodness of its streets,
VancouTer compares very favourably with most towns of its age.
The manufactures of the town, valued in 1901 at nearly $5,000,000,
include carriages, machinery, furniture, boots and shoes, flour, soap,
soda, sugar, and beer. Ship-building is also carried on.
The traveller may begin his sight-seeing here by ascending the
tower of the Vancouver Hotel, which commands a splendid ♦View.
At our feet lies the city of Vancouver, enclosed by Burrard Inlet,
English Bay (p. 286), and False Creek, with the fine residential suburb of
Mt. Pleasant beyond the last. Immediately to the IT.W. of the town lies the
peninsula occupied by Stanley Park (p. 286). Farther to the W. we look
outwards towards the Out/ of Georgia (p. 289), beyond which rise the dark
mountains of Vancouver Island (p. 292). Across Burrard Inlet lie North Van-
couver (p. ^) and the white houses of the Indian Mission, backed by the
heavily-wooded and snow-capped peaks of the Cascade Mts. (p. 282). To
the 8.E. we may distinguish the conical snow-peak of Mt. Baker (p. 289),
60 M. distant, and to the S. and S.W. are the Olympic Mts. (p. 289j. The
immediate environs of the town are occupied by forests of noble pines,
cedars, firs, spruces, and other trees.
The chief business-thoroughfare is Hastings Stubbt (PL B, 0, 3),
in which are the Court House (PI. B, 3), the City HaU # PulUc
Library (PI. 0, 3) , the Bominicn Auay Office (No. 146 ; visitors
admitted), the Bank of BritUh Colvmbia (PI. 2; B, 3), the Bank of
■ British North America (PI. 1 ; B, 3), the Bank of Nova Scotia, the
Royal Batik of Canada, the Bank of Hamilton (PI. 3; B, 3), the
Young Men's Christian Association (PI. 15; B, 3), the clubs men-
tioned above, etc. Among other important buildings are the Post
286 Route 55. VANCOUVER.
Offiee and Cuutom House (see p. 285) ; the Bank of Montreal (PI. 4 ;
B, 3), in GranvUle St.; St. Andrew's Presbyterian Church (PI. 11 ;
B, 3); Christ Church (Epis.; PI. 9, B 3), these two in Georgia St.;
8t, James's Episcopal Church (PI. 12 ; 0, 3) ; two Baptist Churches
(PI. 6 & 7 ; B, 3); the Congregational Church (PL 8; B, 3) ; the Wes-
leyan Church (PL 13; B, 3); the Roman Catholic Church (PL 10;
B, 3); the Hillside and St, Paulas Hospitals (PL 19 & 21 ; B, 3), in
Burrard St.; St, Luke's Home (PL 20; 0, 3J; the Public Schools;
and the Vancouver Opera House (see p. 266). — The University Col-
Uge of British Columbia, in Oak St. (beyond PL A, 4), established
in 1906, is affiliated with McGill University (p. 135). — A visit may
also he paid to one of the large Saw Mills^ such as the Hastings Saw
Mill (PL C, 3). — Many of the Private Residences^ with their lawns
and gardens, are astonishingly handsome for so young a city.
The HarboWy or Coal Harbour (PL A, B, 2), entered by a narrow
channel through which the water rashes with great speed, is safe and
deep, and generally contains quite a little fleet of vessels, often in-
cluding one of the great Japa^ liners and sometimes a British gun-
boat. Among the chief cargoes are tea, silk, seal-skins, coal, and timber.
The chief attraction of Vancoaver to the tourist is, however, the
beautiful *8taiile7 Park (PL A, B, 1, 2 ; reached by Pender St. cars ;
band on Sun. afternoons), 960 acres in extent, which, with com-
mendable promptitude, the youthful city has laid out on the wooded
peninsula connected with the W. side of the city by a long bridge.
Visitors are advised 'to hire a carriage ($3-5) and drive roand the
road encircling the park (9 M.), affording splendid views of English Bay,
the Gulf of Oeorgia, and Burrard Inlet. (The best plan is to turn to
the left on entering.) The Shell Road, on the side next the harbour, is
perhaps the best part of the driven and a magniflcent *View is obtained
here from Brockton Point (PI. B, 2), at the foot of which lies the wreck of
the *Beaver\ the first steamer that reached Uiis district vi& Cape Horn. A
transverse drive (sign-post) leads across the island through the magniflcent
forest with which it is clothed, passing some gigantic red pine (a few of
them 260 ft. high), a spruce 41 ft. in girth, and a cedar 3 ft. lai^er. Foot-
paths lead into the heart of the forest, which has otherwise been left almost
entirely as nature made it. — Near the entrance of the park is a small Zoological
Oarden (PI. B, 2). — A large reservoir in Stanley Park stores water brought
from the Gapilano River (see below) by large pipes beluw Burrard Inlet.
English Bay (PI. A. 2, 8 ; electric cars), adjoining Stanley Park, has a fine
beach and is frequented for bathing and boating. — To the S. of English Bay
and to the W. of Sitt lano (PI. A, 4) Ue the Qolf Links (3 M. from the town).
The waters of Burrard Inlet abound in large and beautifully hued
medusse, and the piles of the wharves reveal, at low water, interesting
algee and other forms of marine life.
On the opposite side of Burrard Inlet (ferry every V4 hr. from the foot
of Garrall St.. PI. G, 8; return-fare 20 c.) lies North Yancouver {Hotely $ 2),
which should be visited for the sake of the drive (carr. from $8) to the
(4 M.) *Capilano (k0ion (saspenslon-bridge. 190 ft high). The drive may be
continued along the 'Keith Road' to (15 M.) t le North Arm. — Orowc Moun-
tain (4850 ft.), affording a fine * View of the city and its environs, is ascended .
from N. Vancouver by the path of the Tourist Association (numerous finger-
posts) in S^lfi hrs. (ponies, not necessary, at the hotel). The ascent of the
Crown (6600 ft.), an extinct crater, requires 6 hrs. (vi& SUter Oreeky an affluent
of the (TapUano). That of the Lion$ (6500 ft.), across the valley to the W.,
takes considerably longer. ^^^^^^^^^ by GoOglc
NAKUSP. 56. Route 287
From Vamcouveb to Steveston, 16 M., British Columbia Electric Rail'
vay ia 1 hr. (return-fare $1.30). The line follows the Fraser Biver. —
Sievesfon. the headquarters of the salmon-packing industry, may be visited
(best in July or Aug.) for the sake of inspectirig one of the sa'mon-canneries
(comp. p. 2S4). Seven varieties of salmon are recognized in British Colum-
bia: suckeye, cohoe, spring-salmin, steelhead, tyhee, dog-salmon, and hump-
back. The first of these is the most abundant and the third is the best) the
last two are very inferior. Steveston lies on Lulu Island^ at tbe mouth of
the Fraoer, and the salmon-tleet here often offers a picturesque sight.
Good shooting and fishing can be obtained in the environs of Van-
couver. The game includes bears, wolves, monntain-goats, deer, caribou,
moose, ducks, grouse, partridges, and English phea«<mt3 (successfully in-
troduced into British Columbia and Vancouver Island).
From Vamcouveb to Seattle, 108 M., Oreat Northern RaUwaf in 6 hrs.
(fare $4iA). The line runs direct to (14 M.) New Wettmituter (p. 281).
Beyond (88 M.) Douglass we enter the United States. From (38 M.) Blain to
(108 M.) Seattle, see Baedekers (TnUed Stales.
From Vamcouveb to Seattle, 178 M., Northern Pacific RaHway in 8 hrs.
(fare $ iVz). From Vancouver to (58 H ) Sumas, see p. 284. From this
point, where we quit Canada, to (178 M.) Seattle^ see Baedeker's United States,
56. From Bevelstoke to Arrowhead, Eobson, and
Nelson. Kootenay Eegion.
The Kootenay Begion, besides Its mining: importance, offers much that
is attractive in scenery; and leisurely travellers might vary their return-trip
across tbe continent by proceeding from Bevelstoke to Kootenay Landing
(p. 268) and thence back by railway to Bunmore (p. 266), on the main
Canadian Pacific line. — The steamers plying on the Arrow and Kootenay
Lakes are good, but perhaps that would be too much to say of the hotels.
a. Prom Bevelstoke to Arrowhead.
28 M. Gahadian Pacifio Bailwat in V/2 hr. (fare $1.15).
ReveUtoke, see p. 279. The line skirts the Columbia Rivtr. The
only intermediate station is (15 M.) Wigwam. — 28 M. Arrowhtad
lies at the head of the expansion of the river known as ^ Upper
Arrow Lake fl390 ft.; 40 M. long and 3 M. wide).
b. Prom Arrowhead to Bobson (West Rohson).
185 M. Stbambss of the Canadian Pacific RaUtoay in 9Vs-ll brs. (see
below; fare $6.10, terth $1, meal 75c.). — This liue facilitates communi-
cation with an important mining district. Bobson has steamer and railway
communication with Spokane (see p. 289), and with an adequate service of
boats and trains this might be made an excellent route from the Canadian
Rockies to the Yellowstone Park.
The sail down the Upper Arrow Lake, which is surrounded with
forests, is very pleasant. At places the banks rise in perpendi-
cular cliffs. About halfway down It, on the E. bank (left), are
Halcyon Hot Springs (Hotel, with villas, $ 3), opposite which rises
Halcyon Peak (10,400 ft.). At the back of the hotel is a pretty
waterfall. At the foot of the lake lies Nakusp, the junction of a
branch-railway to the Slocan Mining District (see p. 289). A river-
stretch of 20 M. connects Upper Arrow Lake with ^ower ^rrow
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
288 Route 56. ROBSON.
Lake (1380 ft.), a similai expansion, 55 M. long and Q, M. wide.
From the foot of this lake the Columbia runs, between mountains,
to (16 M.) Eobson or West Robson (1375 ft.; Robson Ho.), at the
mouth of the Kootenay River. Another steamer plies from Robson
to Little Dallas (p. 289; fare from Revelstoke $9), in Washington,
45 M. lower down.
Fkom Bobson to Rosslamd, 81 M., Canadian Pacific BaUway in 2V4 hrs.
(fare $ 1.30). This line descends the W. bank of the Columbia. 13 M. China
Creek. — 21 M. Smelter Junction^ for the gpor-line to (21 M.) Trail (Crown
Point, $21/4^ MeaJbin)^ a recent mining town of (1901) 1860 inhab., which
contains the largest smelting-works in Canada. — The railway now bends
away from the river. — 81 M. Rossland (Allan, Windsor, $2Vi; BeUeview;
U. 8. J gent), Uie centre of tbe newly developed and important mining district
of the West Eoctenay, has passed in a very few years from non-existence to
the condition of a city of (1901) 6159 inhab., with electric lighting, water-
worko, newspapers, schools, churches, and other marks of progress. Good
authorities assert that the deposits of gold within a radius of 12 M. from
Rossland equal or excel those of any similar area in tbe world; silver and
copper are also found. Among the chief mines are the War Eagle, Le Roi,
Iron Mask, and Centre Star. — Kossland is about 6 M. from the American
frontier and is connected by railway with (1711.) Northpori (p. ^83), on the
Spokane Falls & Northern B.B.
Fboh Bobson (Wkst Bobsok) to Midwat, 99 M., Can. Pae. RaUvoay
(Robson & Peniicton Branch) in 6 hrs. (fare $3.76). This line interf^ects the
Christina Lake and Kettle Biver mining districts and is to be prolonged vi&
Penticton (p. ^80) to Ificola and Spence's Bridge (comp. p. '280). — The
train runs to tbe W. along the S. bank of the Columbia tu (28 M.) Tunnd
and then turns to the S. 80 M. Earron; 49 M. Fife, on LaU Chri<tna. We
then follow the Kettte River, via (64 M.) Cascade City (1580 ft.) and (59 M.)
Gilfrin, to (67 M.) Grand Forks (1745 ft.; Yale, 2>/2-8: Winnipeg, $lV2-3),
the junction of lines to points in the United States, ol M. Ehott Junction
90 M. (?r«entrood(2460ft.; Windsor, Imperial, $2). — 99 M. Midway (1910 ft.
Central, Crowell, $2).
c. From Bobson to Nelson.
28 M. Canadian Pacific Bailwa^ (Columbia dt Kootenay Branch) in IVs-
IV4 hr. (fare $1.25).
Robson, see above. The line mns along the N. bank of the
Kootenay or Kootanie River, affording a view of the splendid *Rapid.^
of the Kootenay, which form actual waterfalls about halfway be-
tween Robson and Nelson. From (15 M.) Slocan Junction a branch-
line runs to the N. to (32 M.) Slocan City (Arlington, $ 2V2i see p. 289).
28 M. Nelson (1760 ft. ,- Hume Ho., Strathcona, from $ 3 j Queen,
$2; U. S. Agent), on the S. bank of the Kootenay, is a mining
town with (1901) 5273 inhab. and a large smelter. Near Nelson are
the Silver King, Toad Mi., and other mines. From Nelson, which
lies at the head of the rapids, steamers ascend the Kootenay to
Balfour, Pilot Bay, Ainsworih, and (3^4 hrs.) Kaslo (Kaslo Ho.,
$272-3; Slocan, $2^^), on *Kootenay Lake (17^0 (t.), an expansion
of the river among the Selkirk Mts., well stocked with sturgeon,
land-locked salmon, trout, and cbar. Another steamer plies to
(5^2 hrs.) Kootenay Landing, the present terminus of the Crow's
Nest Pass Railway (see p. 268).
yGoogk
VICTORIA. 57. Route. 289
From Nelson an extension of the railway goes on to (20 M.J
Procter , at the mouth of the Kootenay River, whence a steamer
plies to Kootenay Landing (p. 288). — From Kaslo (p. 288) a
steamer plies to (IV3 hr.J LardOj whence a railway rans to (3B M.)
Oerrard^ on Trout Lake (steamer to Trout Lake City). Trips are
also made from Kaslo to Kokarue Mt. and Kitchener Glacier. —
The Kootenay River rises near the Hector Pass (p. 271), flows to
the S. for abont 200 M., then tnms (about 40 M. beyond the Ameri-
can frontier), and flows N.W. to (100 M.) Kootenay Lake. The
Koptenfiy Indians, belonging to the Selish stock, are favourable spe-
cimens of red men. Their canoes of pine<-bark are of a unique shape,
with long sharp cutwaters at each end. For the fishing, comp. p. liii.
From Nelflon the Nblson & Fobt Shbpfard Bailwat rans to (70 M.)
Northport (p. 288), whence the Bfokanb Falls A Nobthbbm Railway
(G.N.B. system) runs to (4 M.) UttU Dallas, on the Columbia, and on to
(190 M. ; 10 hrs.) Spokane (see Baedeker's United States). '
From Nakdsp to Sandon, 41 M., railway in S^/shrs. (fare $1.66). This
line opens up the Slocan Sihfer Mining District^ the annual output of which
exceeds $8,(X)0,000. — Nakusp^ see p. 287. The train runs towards the S.E.
18 M. Summit Siding. 24 M. Slocan Lake Station, at the head of Sloean
Lake^ the E. bank of which we now skirt. From (29 M.) Roseberrp a steamer
Slies on the lake to Enterprise and (2>/4 hrs.) Slocan City (see p. 288), at its
. end. The railway ends at (41 M.) Sandon (Sandon, Filbert, $2), which
also connects by railway with Ka^ (p. 288). on Kootenay Lake.
Passes from the Kootenay District into the Rocky Mis. Fark, see p. 282
67. From Vancouver to Victoria.
Steambk daily in 4-5 hrs. (fare $ 21/2). There is often sufficient motion
on the Gulf of Georgia to cause sea-sickness.
Vancouver, see p. 284. The steamer quits the Coal Harbour and
descends Burrard Inlet, passing the wreck of the 'Beaver' (see p. 286)
to the left. Good retrospect of the city. On reaching the Oalf of
Oeorgia (20-30 M. wide), it turns to the left and steers to the S. To
the W. rise the blue mountains of Vancouver Island, to the £. the
majestic white cone of Mt. Baker (10,810 ft.). The line of separation
between the waters of the Fraser and the Strait is very sharply de-
fined. Farther on we enter the Canal de Haro, which the arbitration
of the Emp. William I. of Germany in 1872 decided to he the line of
demarcation between British and American possessions. It lies be-
tween Vancouver Island, on the right, and the San Juan Islands,
on the left. Ahead, beyond the Straits of San Juan de Fuca, rise the
Oh/mpicMts. Finally we turn to the right (W.), round a rocky head-
land, and enter the harbour of Victoria. The conspicuous building on
the height to the right is the house of the late Hon. Robert Duns^
muir, a wealthy coal-owner (comp. p. 292). To the left of the pier,
among trees, are the barracks of Esquimalt (see p. 291*).
Victoria. — Hotels. Canadian Facifio Hotel (PI. a; F, 2), at the
head of the harbour, to be opened in 1907^ Dallas (PI. e; E, 2), facing
the sea, near the Outer Docks, $3-5; The Dbiabd (PI. b^ F, 2), in the
centre of the town, $2>/r5, E. from 3IV45 Victoiua(P1. c; F,J[), Johjason
Babdrkeb^s Canada. 3rd Edit. 19jOOgle
p. 293), E
tr., $ 1-7
290 Route 57, VICTORIA.
St., $2-4, R. from $1; DoMiBTiON (PI. g; F, 2), Yates St., opp. the Public
Library, well spoken of, $ lVs-2V2, S. from 60 c. \ St. Francis (PI. f { F, 1),
GoBooN (PI. h; F, 1), KiHa Eowabd (PI. d, F, 1, 2 } from $ 2), these three also
in Tates St.) Vsbnon, commercial, $ 2-2V2. — Roecabella (Mrs.Tuei)jYictOTi9
Crescent, a good boarding-honse. — J*oodle Dog Restauraaty Yates St., D. 76 c.
Gabs: per drive within the city, l-2pers. 50c., each addit. jpers. 26c.)
to or from steamer or train, each pers. 60c.; per hour $1.50; per day
$ 21/2-61/2 ; each tnink 25 c, small baggage free. — Tramways (electric)
run through some of the chief streets and to the outer wharf (iVs M.;
5 c.); also to (3 M.) Eaquimali (10 c). — Steamers ply daily to Vaneower
(see p. 284) ; also to ports in Briiith Columbia and Vancouver Island (Nanaimo,
Korth Saanich, Ck)mox, etc.), Puget Bound Ports^ San Francisco^ Alaska (see
"""". HonohUu^ Australia^ and Japan (comp. p. 286). — Boats 25 c. .per
[-7 per day.
' Consuls. American, Mr. Abraham E. Smith ; Oerman, Mr, Carl Loeteen-
hirg; French, Col. F. B. Gregory. — Post Office (PI. F, 2), Government St.
(open 7-7). ~ C. P. R. Telegraph Co.^ Trounce Ave. — Telephone Co.^ above
the Bank of Montreal. — B, C. District Telegraph ds Delivery Co.^ Theatre
Block, View St. (PI. F, 2); Dominion Express Cfe., North Pacific Expreu Co.^
Wells Fargo Express Oo., cor. Government St. and Trounce Ave; Victoria
Transfer Co., 21 Broughton St. — Tourists" Aid AssodaHony 34 Fort St.
(PL F, 2). — Clubs. Union (PL F, 2), cor. Oourtney and Douglas Sts. ;
Victoria^ cor. Fort and Broad Sts. (PL F, 2)-, Pacific (PL F, 2), Fort St.
Sports. Cricket is a favourite game at Victoria, and there are grounds
at both the military and naval stations. — Oolf^ see p. 292. — A large Regatta
is held annually on May 24th.
There are several good shops, chiefly in Johnson St. (PL F, 1), where
Chinese and other (mental curiosities may be advantageously purchased
by experienced buyers. Indian (Alaskan) curiosities may be obtained of
the Indian peddlers who haunt the steamboat- wharves.
Victoria, the capital of British Columbia (see p. 292) and seat of
the Lieutenant-Governor, is a quiet and attractive little city with
(1901) 20,816 inhab. Oftow about 26,000), beautifully situated at
the S.E. end of Yancouyer Island, foiming a pleasant contrast to some
of its rather raw-looking neighbours on Puget Sound, and containing
a larger proportion of a cultivated *leisured class' than is usual in
the Far West. The substantial buildings, the wide and well-kept
streets, the gay flower-gardens, and the numerous country-houses in
the environs give the place quite an old-world air; while the climate,
rarely rising above 76® Fahr. or descending much below freezing-
point, rivals that of the most delightful health-resorts in the South of
England. The population is very heterogeneous, including native-
bom Canadians, Britons, Americans, Italians, Frenchmen, Ger-
mans, Japanese, and Chinese (3000). It carries on a large trade in
canned salmon, lumber, coal, rice, etc., the total value of its
exports and imports in 1906-6 amounting to about $ 6,000,000.
Tbe value of its manufactures in the same year, including boats,
brass, beer, bricks, carriages, machinery, flour, lumber, soap, and
soda, was $2,617,573.
Fort Victoria was established here by the Hudson Bay Oo. in 1842, but
did not begin to assume the aspect of a town before the gold-mining
excitement of 1858. In 1866 Vancouver Island was united with British
Ooluinbia, and Victoria was selected as the capitad of the province. In.
1871 the population was 3270, in 1881 it was o935, and in 1891 it was
16,841. In 1893 Victoria was made the station of a corps of Royal Marine
Artillery and Royal Bngineers, but it is now garrisoned by Canadian troops.'
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VICTORIA. 57, Route. 291
It is the headquarters of the Canadian fur-sealing ^eet, which consists of
about SO vessels and caught 14,646 seals (valued at $ 219,690) in 1904.
The handsome * Parliament Buildings (PI. F, 2, 3), recently
completed at a cost of $ 800,000, lie in Belleville St., near James
Bay J an arm of the harbour, and are passed on the way from the
steamboat- wharf to the centre of the town (tramway, see p. 290). The
bnildings include the Parliament House^ tbe Provinciat Museum ^
Library, and the Oovemment Offices. A statue of Captain Vancouver
surmounts the dome, while in front stands a monument commemo-
rating Sir James Douglas, the first governor of the colony.
The Miueum (open 9^12 and 1-4 \ Sat., 9-1) contains specimens illustrat-
ing the geology and natural history of the colony. — Admission to the
sittings of Parliament (one chamber only) is easily obtained (comp. p. 153).
The other cbief buildings of Victoria include the City Hall (PI. F, 1),
the Court House (PI. F, 1), the Post Office ^ Custom House (PI. F, 2),
the Marine Hospital (PI. E, 1), the Anglican Cathedral (PI. F, 2),' the
Roman Catholic Cathedral (PL F, 2), the St. Arme's Convent (PI. F, 2),
the Exhibition Building (beyond P1.F,2), St. Joseph's Hospital (R. C. ;
PI. F, 2), the Jubilee Hospital, the VictoHa Theatre (PI. F, 2), the
Victoria Public Library (PI. F, 1), the Assembly Hall (PI. F, 2), the
Banks (PI. 1-4; F, 1, 2), and several well-built Schools, Colleges,
and Charitable Institutions.
*Beacon Hill Park (PI. F, 3, 4) affords pleasant walks and drives
among its fine trees, and commands charming views of the Straits
of San Juan de Fuca, the Olympic Mts., Mt. Baker (to the £.), and
tbe city. It contains a small collection of native beasts and birds.
A visit to the Chinese Quarter, with its drug and curiosity
stores, its joss-houses, its theatre, and its restaurants, is highly in-
teresting. — There is a reservation of Songhish or Songhies Indians
(PI. E, 1) near the city, and survivors of this tribe are often seen in
the streets and at the wharves (comp. below).
About 3 M. to tbe W. of Victoria, reached by a good road lined
by beautiful trees and passing near the United Service Golf Links
(tramway, see p. 290), lies Esqnimalt (accent on second syllable ;
PI. A-0, 1, 2), an attractive English-looking village, on a picturesque
bay, with a fine land-locked harbour (36 ft. deep), which is much
larger than that of Victoria. Down to 1905 Esquimau was the head-
quarters of the British Pacific Squadron, but in that year it was
handed over to the Dominion Government, and the Navy Yard was
dismantled. The fine dock (PI. B, 1), however, 430 ft. long, 65 ft.
vnde, and 26 ft. deep, has been retained for the use of Canadian ves-
sels. Esqnimalt and the entrance to the harbour are strongly fortified.
Several other pleasant Dbives may he taken from Victoria, the roads
around the city heing usually excellent and running through luxuriant
woods of pines, maples, arhutus, madronas, fern-trees, English oaks (not
known on the mainland), wild roses, and syringas. Among the most popular
points are Oak Bay (with Oak Bay Park^ the Victoria Qolf Links, a hotel,
and good opportunities for hoating and bathing), Cordova Bay^ Cadboro Bay,
Mt. Tolmie (view), and the district of Afetehosin (15 M. ; stage). — A steamer
plies twice weekly to Jlayne Island (Point Comfort Hotel), a favourite
19*
292 BouU57: VANCOUVER ISLAND.
summer-resort. — Boating and Saxltsq are also carried on here with great
test, a favourite trip being that up the inlet known as the ^Oorge^ in
which veritable rapids are formed by the tide (steam-launch from the
city hourly in summer; fare 26 c.). A park has been laid out here. —
Good Shootikg and Fishing are obtainable within easy reach of the town.
Fbom Vigtobia to Nanaimo and Wellington, 78 M., Eaquimalt A
Nanakno Raiiwav (C. P. E.) in 4 hrs. (fare $ 3.60). The scenery on this line
is bold and impressive. The work of construction was attended by con-
siderable difficulty, and numerous high bridges and trestles were necessary.
— 4 M. Esquimau (p. 291). 11 M. Qoldstream (Goldstream Ho.). ~ 26 M.
Shawnigan Lake (Strathcona Hotel, with boats, etc.). The lake, 17 M. long,
is a favourite resort for boat-races. — 86 M. Coieichcm. At (40 M.) Dunean't
(Quamichan Hotel) stages are in waiting to take passengers to (21 M.) Lake
Cowiehan (hotel), a salmon-fishing resort. The lake is 26 M. long (steamer).
— 62 M. ChWMxinw (Louisville Hotel : U. 8. Agent) has some of the largest
lumber-mills and logging-camps in the world. — 69 M. ZatfysfnMA, with the
smelter of the Tyee Mime^ on Mt. Sicker (see below). — 73 M..Nanaimo, see
p. 294. — 78 M. Wellin^n (Summerset Ho., 2 M. from the village-, WelUng-
ton Ho.)y with important coal-mines (B. Dunsmuir & Sons; p. 289), the
products of which are shipped at D^arture Bay (comp. p. 294).
Another short railway runs to the K. from Victoria along the coast to
(16 M.) Sidney (Hotel; fare 60 c). It opens up a good farming-country.
From Sidney a steamer runs daily to Cro/kNi, with the large smelter of
the Lenora Copper Mines on Mt. Sicker, a£fording a charming trip among
the islands of the Gulf of Georgia.
British Columbia, of which Victoria is the capital, includes the whole
of Canada to the N. of the United States and to the S. of Yukon Territory,
between the Rocky Mts. on the £. and the Pacific Ocean and Alaska on
the W. Its extreme length is 1200 M., its greatest width 660 M., and its
area 872,680 sq. H. (rather more than the combined area of France, Prussia,
and Bavaria). Pop. (1901) 178, 667. It is essentially a mountainous district,
though including large tracts of good arable land. The chief river of British
Columbia is the Eraser (p. 282), but parts of the province belong to the
hydrographic basins of the Maekentie (p. 264) and the Yukon Cp. 8u3). Its
resources have so far been developed only to a slight extent. The staple
industries of the province are lumbering, fishing, and mining. The vast
forests contain some of the finest timber in the world, the most important
tree being the Douglas fir, which, on the coast, often attains a height of
200-300 ft. The reu cedar, the Oregon pine, and the spruce are also im-
portant varieties. Many of the rivers abound in salmon, while hernuML
halibut, and other fish are taken on the coast. The salmon ^pack** in 190t
amounted to about 5(X),000 cases (48lbs. each), valued at nearly $ 3iXX),000.
There are numerous varieties of game in British Columbia, including Uie
English pheasant (comp. Pi287). The mineral resources include gold (of
which at least $ 100,000,000 has been produced), coal, silver, and iron.
British Columbia contains about 24,000 Indians, tne annual value of whose
industries amounts to $ 700,000. — Vancouver Island was made a Crown
colony in 1849, the mainland of British Columbia in 1868. The two colo-
nies were united in 1866 and entered the Canadian Confederation in 1871.
— The lowest coin current in British Columbia is the piece of 6 cents.
Vancouver Island, on which Victoria lies, is the largest of the
numerous islands included in British Columbia, being 290 M. long and
60-80 M. wide , with an area of 20,000 sq. M. The greater part of its
surface is covered with mountains, reaching aheight of 6-7(X)0 ft. (Victoria
Peak 7486 ft.), and little of its surface has been explored or reclaimed.
It is rich in minerals (comp. p. 294). The island was discovered by Juan
de Fuca in 1692, and takes its name from Vancouver, who surveyed its
coasts in 1798. The two native tribes are the Nootkas and SeKshy of whom
a few degenerate specimens may be met In Victoria. Vancouver Island ia
almost free from the mosquito and the black fly, which are often trou-
blesome on the mainland. ^ j
_ , Digit ized by VjOOQ IC
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Digitized byCjOO^lC
Yffl. ALASKA AM) THE YUKON.
Route Page
58. From Victoria to Sitka. The Yukon Region .... 293
Treadwell Gold Mine 300
From Skagway to White Horse 301
AtUn District 302
From White Horse to Dawson 302
Klondike Mining Region 303
Unalaska. Mt. Logan, Mt. St. Elias, and Mt. McEinley 806
58. From Victoria to Sitka.
The Yukon Begion.
The tourist traffic to Alaska is mainly in the hands of the Pacific
Coast Steamship Co. of San Francisco, and a pamphlet with all necessary
information, including stateroom-plans of the steamers, may he obtained
from G. D. Dunann, 10 Market St. , San Francisco, or from any agent of
the company. The steamer ^Spokane' of this company (2000 tons burden)
makes about six trips from Tacoma to Sitka and back every summer
(Jnne-Aug.), taking about 11 days to the round journey (fare $100-200,
according to position of berth and stateroom, the highest charge securing
the sole occupancy of a large deck-stateroom). This steamer, wbich carries
comparatively little freight, calls at Seattle, Port Townsend, Victoria, Ket-
chikan, WraogeU, Juneau, Treadwell's, Skagway, the Taku and Davidson
Glaciers, Olacier Bay, Eillisnoo, and Sitka. — The steamships *Gity of
Topeka\ *Cottage City", and ^Oiiy of Seattle' of the same companv sail
fortnightly the year round, carry freight as well as passengers, take 12-14 days
for the round trip from Tacoma (fares $80-20()), and call at more points in
Alaska. Return-tickets are also issued from San Francisco (fare ftrom
$ 124) for passengers travelling by sea between that city and Port Toumsemd,
The fares from Seattle, Port Townsend, or Victoria are the same as
those from Tacoma. Berths should be secured in advance. — Steamers
of the Canadian Pacific Railway Co. (British Columbia Coast Service) ply
regularly from Victoria and Vancouver to the various points along the
British Columbia coast as far N. as Port Simpson (p. 296-, fare $17-20) and
also to (5 days) Skagway (p. 801), calling at Ketchikan. The through-fare to
Dawson (p. 3()3) by this route is about $ 76 in summer, $ 150 in winter (meals
and berths on the steamers included). The passengers by the Canadian
steamers have not always the same privileges as the American steamers in
landing at Alaska points. — Other excursion-steamers occasionally make
the trip to Alaska in summer, but should not be patronized without careful
investigation as to their equipment and the experience of their officers.
The arrangements of the Alaska trip resemble those on the trip to
the North Cape (see Baedeker's Norway and Sweden^ and it involvea no greater
hazard or fatigue. There are but few hotels in Alaska, and passengers
live almost entirely on the steamers. The weather is generally pleasant
in June, July, or August. Warm winter-clothing should be taken, as the
nights on board are often cold, though the sun may be quite powerful
during the day. Stout boots are desirable for the short excursions on land,
and waterproofs are indispensable. Deck-chairs may be bought or hired
at Victoria. Nearly the whole of the voyage is in the calm channel be-
tween the coast-islands and the mainland , so that sea-sickness need not
he dreaded. The steamers are safe and reasonably comfortable. The
"^Scenery passed en route is of a most grand and unique character, such
as, probably, cannot be seen elsewhere at so little cost and with so little
toU or adventure. In the description of the text the usual route of tbe
294 Route 58. NANAIMO. From VictoHa
^Spokane* I0 followed. The approximate distances from Victoria by this
course are giyen in nautical miles (J nant. miles = about 8 statute miles).
Native curiosities can, perhaps, be best obtained at Sitka (p. 905), furs
at Juneau (p. 900). In buying the latter, the traveller should be on his
guard against deception uid patronize the larger and more respectable
stores only. United States money is the current coin, and silver is pre-
ferred by the Indians to gold or notes.
Alaska time is 1 hr. behind that of the Pacific standard (p. xii).
VictoriGy see p. 289. The course through the C^nal de Haro,
passing the San Juan Islands, is the same as that described in the
reverse direction at p. 289. Farther on we traverse the broader
waters of the Gnlf of Georgia (p. 289) , passing various islands off
the coast of Vanconver.
30 M. Nanaimo (Windsor, Wilson Ho., $2-2V2» ^- S, Consular
Agent) , a small town on the E. coast of Vancouver Island, with
(1901) 6130 inhab., is ofimportance as the shipping- port of the ex-
tensive collieries of the "Western Fuel Co. (the headquarters of which
are in California) and of the Dunsmuir mines at Ladysmith (p. 292)
and Comox (see below). There are also large saw-mills. The Alaska
steamers often stop to coal here either in going or returning. The
pretty, rose-gardened cottages of Nanaimo are very unlike the grimy
abodes of coal-miners in England, and many of the miners own them
in freehold. The daily wage of the miners in 1906 was $3-5. The
annual output of coal at Nanaimo is about 600,000 tons, and nearly
twice as much is produced at the Wellington pits (p. 292), the total
output of the island being about 1,600,000 tons. The H. B. Oo.'s
Blockhouse (the ^Bastion') at Nanaimo dates from 1833. Behind
Nanaimo rises (4 M.) Mt. Benson (5366 ft. ; view), to the top of
which a road has been constructed. Good boating may be enjoyed In
the bay (25-60 c. per hr.), and numerous pleasant excursions may
be made. — ^rom Nanaimo to (73 M.) Victoria and to (5 M.)
Wellington by railway, see p. 292. Wellington may also be reached
by a pretty road through luxuriant woods , or by water via (3 M.)
Departure Bay (p. 292). Vancouver (p. 284) lies on the mainland,
directly opposite Nanaimo (steamer, $ 3).
Farther on we see few settlements or signs of life. The shores are
low and heavily wooded , but lofty mountains rise behind them on
both sides, those on the mainland covered with snow. Long, deep,
and narrow fjords, flanked with lofty mountains, run up into the land.
To the right lie Lesqueti Island and the large Texada Island, covering
the entrance to Jervis Inlet, one of the just-mentioned fjords, on the
banks of which are quarries of fine slate. Comox (left), on Van-
couver Island , opposite Texada and 60 M. to the N. of Nanaimo, is
an important coal-mining station, with regular steamer-communica-
tion with Victoria, Vancouver, and Nanaimo. About 80 M. beyond
Nanaimo we leave the Gulf of Georgia and enter *Di8C0vexy Passage,
a river-like channel, 25 M. long and 1-2 M. wide, which separates
Vancouver Island from Valdes Island and is flanked by mountains
B-6000 ft. high. Valdes Island, ending on the S, in Cape Mudge,
to SUka. JOHNSTONE STRAIT. 58, RouU. 296
occupies nearly the whole channel, and a scheme has been in con-
sideration for running a railway from the mainland to Yancouyer
Island by bridges constructed oyer the narrow waterways here. Be-
hind Yaldes Island opens the narrow *Bute InUt, 40 M. long,
flanked by mountains 4-8000 ft. in height. About the middle of
Discovery Passage are the famous *8eymotir Narrows, 2 M. long and
1/2 M. wide, through which the water rushes with great velocity (some-
times as high as 12 knots per hour).
Discovery Passage is succeeded by *Jolmst02Le Strait, another
similar channel, 65 M. long and 1-3 M. wide, between Vancouver
Island on the left and the mainland itself, or islands hardly distin-
guishable from it, on the right. The Frkice of Wales Mts.j on Van-
couver Island, reach a height of about 4600 ft. ; and the white
summits of the Cascade Range rise to the right beyond the lower
intervening hills. The varied beauty of the scenery cannot easily
be indicated in words ; but few travellers will be weary of the pano-
rama unfolded before them as the steamer advances. — Beyond
Johnstone Strait we thread the shorter Broughton Strait (15 M. long),
between Vancouver and Cormorant and Malcolm Islands. On Cor-
morant Island lies the Indian village of Alert Bay, with a salmon-
cannery, a native graveyard, and a totem-pole (see p. 297). The
conical summit to the left is Mt, Holdsworth (3040 ft.).
On emerging from Broughton Strait, we enter QaeenCliarlotte's
Sound, which is 10-30 M. wide and contains many islands, mostly
adjoining the mainland. On the shore of Vancouver lies Fort Rupert,
an old post of the Hudson Bay Co., with an Indian village. A little
later we pass through Goletas Channel and then say farewell to Van-
couver Island, the N. point of which, Cape Commerell, we leave to
the left. For a short time (40 M.) we are now exposed to the swell
of the Pacific Ocean, but this is seldom enough in summer to cause
uneasiness even to bad sailors. To the N.W., in the distance, loom
the large Queen Charlotte Islands, the chief home of the Haidas, the
cleverest of the native-tribes of this coast (comp. p. 297). A full
account of the islands is given by Dr. George M, Dawson in the
Report of the Canadian Geological Survey for 1879.
Our course now hugs the mainland and leads at first through
*FiUihugh Sound, a deep and narrow channel, the W. shore of which
is formed by a continuous series of islands. The sharp peak of Mt.
Buxton (3430 ft.) rises on Calvert Island, As we near the N. end
of the Sound the scenery becomes very grand , huge snowy peaks
towering above the pine-clad hills that line the channel. Beyond the
large Hunter's Island we turn sharply to the left and enter the ex-
tremely narrow and winding *Lama Passage, between it and Denny
Island, On Campbell Island, to the left, is the Indian village of
Bella Bella, opposite which is a graveyard, with totem-poles (comp.
p. 297). Farther on we pass through the wider Seaforth Channel
and reach MiUbank Sound, the only other point on the voyage where
296 Route 58. ALASKA. From Victoria
we are exposed for a brief interval to the waves of the open sea.
Beyond this sound we enter Finlayson Channel, 24 M. long and 2M.
wide, between the large Princess Royal Island (4S M. long and 25 M.
wide) and the mainland. Numerous fjords, short and long, run into
the mainland, and several high waterfalls descend from the cliffs. Fin-
layson Channel is continued by Tolmie Channel, Graham Reach, and
Fraztr Reach, beyond which we pass through McKay Reach, between
theN. end of Princess Royal Island and QrihheCs Island, into WrigkCs
Sound. Behind Gribbel's Island are the channels leading to ^Oard-
ner Canal, one of the grandest and gloomiest Qords on this coast.
From Wright's Sound we enter ^Oreiiville Channel, which runs for
50 M. in an almost perfectly straight line between Pitt Island and the
mainland. It is flanked on both sides with steep mountains 1500-
3500 ft. high, while still higher mountains rise in the background
to the right. At places the channel is only a few hundred feet wide.
Signs of glacier-action are seen on the more distant mountains, while
the courses of long by-gone avalanches may be traced by the light-
green streaks of the younger growth of trees. Crossing an expansion
of Grenville Channel , we next enter the short Arthur Passage, be-
tween Porcher Island (1.) and Kennedy Island (r.), which leads to
Malacca Passage and the wide Chatliam Sound. To the right, near
the mouth of the Skeena River, lies Port Essington. Along the Skeena
are scattered innumerable salmon-canneries. The E. side of the
Sound is bounded by the large Chim-sy-an or Tsimpsean Peninsula,
which is connected with the mainland by a very narrow neck of
land. On this lie -Prince Rupert, the proposed terminus of the new
Grand Trunk Pacific Railway (comp. p. 307), and Old Metldkatla, the
scene of Mr. Wm. Duncan's interesting experiences in educating the
natives (see p. 298) and now a missionary -station of the Epis-
copal Church of Canada. Higher up is Port Simpson, a station of
the Hudson Bay Co., established in 1831. On the small island,
opposite the Fort, is an interesting village of Tsimpsean Indians,
who have attained a high measure of civilization and prosperity.
The Nasse River, a little to the N. of the Tsimpsean Peninsula, is the
chief scene (in spring) of the catch of the ^oulichan* or candle-fish
( Thaleichthys Pacificus), which furnishes the natives with the means
of artificial light. It is so full of oil that , wlien dry and furnished
with a wick, it bums like a candle. To the left lie the Dundas Is-
lands, opposite the northernmost of which opens Poriland Inlet. Just
here we cross the boundary-line between the British and American
possessions (54®40'N. lat. ; the famous * fifty- four forty or fight' of
1843) and enter Alaska t. To the left opens Dixon Entrance, between
Oraham Island (S.) and Prince of Wales Island (N.).
t The exact boundary between Alaska and Canada was not definitely
settled till Oct., 1908, when it was determined by a Commission, meeting
in London and composed of delegates from the United States, Great Britain,
and Canada. Iron pillars, at intervals of about 11/3 M., lu^e beenj erected
to mark the frontier. Comp. Map. Digitized by V^OOQlC
,, ha^e beenifl
JbyXjOOgk
toSiika. ALASKA. 58. Route. 297
"- The territory of Alaska received its name from Charles Sumner in a
Speech addressed to the Senate in favour of the purchase of the terri-
tory. It is a corruption of an Aleut word referring to the continent as
distinguished from the Aleutian islands. The boundaries of the territory
comprise the continent and islands adjacent, to the W. of 141* W. Ion.,
and also a strip to the W. of a line drawn parallel to the coast from the
vicinity of Ml St. Elias (p. d06) in a S.E. direction to the If. extreme of
Portland Canal, through the canal in mid-channel. and westward to the
ocean on the parallel of bi^'^K. lat. The W. limits of the territory, to
the IS. of the Pacific Ocean, include the Aleutian chain, the islands of
Bering Sea, and the eastern of the two Diomede Islands in Bering Strait.
The territory is divisible by its physical characteristics into several
diverse regions. The Sitkan Region, including the coast and islands to
Cook's Inlet on the N. and the Kadiak group on the W., has a rough and
mountainous topography with many glaciers , a bold sea-coast, numerous
Qords and islands, a moist, cool, and equable climate, and a dense covering
of chiefly coniferous forests. — The Aleutian Region includes the peninsula
of Alaska, the Aleutian chain, and the Pribiloff or Fur-seal Islands. It
also has a cool and equable climate, with much fog and wind but less
rain than in the Sitkan region. It consists of broad level areas with nu-
merous clusters of mountahis, few glaciers , manv volcanic cones , many
harbours and anchorages; and, while totally destitute of trees, nourishes
luxuriant crops of grass, herbage, and wild flowers. The Aleutian chain
represents an old line of fracture m the earth*s crust; and, contrary to the
usual idea, a large proportion of the islands are not volcanic but com-
posed of crystalline or sedimentary rocks. — The Yukon Region includes
the mass of the continent to the N. of the great peninsula, which has on
its N. border true Arctic conditions, on its W. shores a mild summer and
an Arctic winter, and in the Interior a hot short summer and a dry cold
winter, much like that of Minnesota. It is a region of Tundra: low, un-
dulating ranges of grassy mountains, and extensive, level, more or less
wooded river-valleys.
The proaucts of the Sitkan region are timber, precious metals, salmon,
halibut, and other sea-fish. Petroleum, copper ores, lignitic coal, and ex-
tensive beds of marble exist in many places. The Aleutian region pro-
duces chiefiy fox and sea-otter fur, the fur-seal pelts, and a^ certain amount
of coal. Extensive cod-fisheries are prosecuted along its shores. The Yukon
region produces gold, furs, and salmon. A remarkable characteristic of
the Territory is tiiat, though bordering on the Arctic Ocean and in the S.
teeming with glaciers, it has still never been subjected to the action of a
continental ice-sheet, such as have ground down the coasts of the ana-
logous Qord-regions of New England and Norway.
The native inhabitants of Alaska belong to four ethnologic stock-races :
the Bgkimo or Intmii , with their special offshoot the Aleutian people ; the
ffaida Indiana of Alaska; the Tlinhit stock of the Sitkan region; and the
Tinneh or Ailiabtucan Indiana of the great interior region. In all there are
between twenty ajid thirty thousand of these natives, independent , self-
sustainine, and mostly well disposed. They are in no direct way related
to any of the present Asiatic races as is so often assumed, but, from the
evidences of the prehistoric shell-heaps, have occupied the region for many
centuries. They live by fishing and hunting ; the moose, the caribou, and
the salmon, in the interior, and the hair-seal, the beluga, the cod and other
sea-fishes, the salmon, and wild-fowl, on the coasts, furnish their chief
supplies. The Qords and rivers are their roads; with hardly an exception
they are canoe-men everywhere, and throughout the N. drivers of dogs
and sledges f.
Among the Tlinkit and Haida people one custom is forced on the
attention of all who visit their villages. It is that of erecting what are
called Tot»m Folee^ whieh have various significations, the most common
being that of a ^genealogical tree*. A man erects one of ttieir large com-
t Reindeer have recentlv been introduced into Alaska, where they
thrive well and have been of great service to the native population.
298 RouU 58, CLARENCE STRAIT. From Victoria
munal houses, and, in memory of thia acMevement, pats up in front of
it a cedar pole carved with figures emblematic of the totems of himself
and his ancestors, one above another. The door of the house is frequent/,
cut through the base of the pole under the totem of the builder; whilel
above, the successive totems (which by tbeir social laws must change
with every generation) appear in the order of remoteness.
The estimated area of the territory is 586,400 sq. M. (thrice that of France);
its total population about 35,000 f, of which one-seventh are accounted
civilized i its chief archipelago, in Uie Sitkan region, is said to contain 11,000
islands*, its total shore-line amounts to some 18,200 M.; its principal com-
mercial port is in about the same latitude as Liverpool; its southernmost
islands lie on the parallel of Brussels ; its westernmost village is as far W.
from the mouth of the Columbia River, Oregon, as Eastport, Maine, is E.
from that point ; it includes within its boundaries the highest mountains,
the most superb glaciers and volcanos in Ameriea to tiie N. of Mexico ;
and presents the anomaly of a territory with only about one inhabitant
to 17 sq. M. which in 20 years has paid more than eight million dollars
in taxes. It was transferred by Russia to the United States in 1867 for
the sum of $7,250,000.
To the above paragraphs, which were kindly drawn up for the original
eation of this Handbook (1894) by Dr. Wm. E. Dally it may be added that
between 1867 and 1904 Alaska exported furs, fish, and gold in about equsd
values to the amount of $ 160,000,000 •, that it absorbed merchandise £rom
the United States during the same period to the value of $100,000,000; and
that the investments of American capital in the territory amount to about
$25,000,000. — The first eleclion for a delegate to Congress was held in
Aug., 1906.
The fullest account of Alaska is contained in the record of the ^Harri-
man Alaska Expedition (1899), a work in five huge volumes, written by
the various members of the Expedition and profasely illustrated (1908-1904).
A more manageable and also authoritative work is ^Alaska and its Re-
sources*, by Dr. Wm. H. Dall. A good popular account is given in Miu
E. R. Scidmore'^s ^Alaska and the Sitkan Archipelago\ Se^ also A. P.
Stoii^forcPs ^Alaska: its History, Climate, and Natural Resources' (189S)
and John 8. MacLain's ^Alaska and the Klondike' (1905).
To the right, as we proceed, juts out Cape Fox^ with the small
station of Fort Tongas on an adjacent islet. The steamer next enters
the Bevillagigedo Channel, with Duke Island and Annette Island to
the left. The latter, the largest of the Gravina group (E.), is the
seat of Port Chester, with the new Metlakatla, founded by Mr. Dun-
can on leaving his original station (see p. 296). To the right, oppo-
site Annette Island, lies the large island of Bevillagigedo , the chief
places on which are Ketchikan (usually the first stopping-place of
the steamer * Spokane' after leaving Victoria) and Loring, with an
important salmon-cannery. Opposite Ketchikan lies the Island of
Qravina (left), and on emerging from the narrow channel separating
it from Revillagigedo we enter Clarence Strait, which is 100 M.
long and 4-12 M. wide and is bounded on the W. by Prince of
Wales Island (130 M. long and 30 M. wide). This is one of the
seats of the Haidas (oomp. p. 295) and the steamer sometimes
calls at Old Kasan^ on the E. shore, to allow tourists to see its won-
derful totem-poles (75-100 in number, better than those at Wran-
gell). We are now within what is known as the Alexander Archi-
pelago, about 1100 of the islands of which appear on the U. S.
t Now (1906) about 65,000.
yGoogk
to Sitka, WEANQELL. 58. Route. 299
charts, while innumerable small islets are disiegaided. The moun-
tains on each side of the strait are fine in size, proportions , and
colouring. Near the head of Clarence Strait we steer to the right
(E.), between EtolinMand (r.) and Zaremho l8land(\,') and run into —
690 M. (from Yictoria) Wrangell, situated on the N. end of the
island of the same name, opposite the mouth of the Stikine River, It
was formerly a place of some importance, as the outlet of the Cassiar
Mines, but is now a dirty and dilapidated settlement inhabited
by about 250 Tlinkits (p. 297} and a few whites. It was named
from Baron Wrangell, Russian Governor of Alaska at the time of its
settlement (1834). Wrangell was almost wholly destroyed by fire
in 1906.
To the tourist Wrangell is of interest as containing a good collection
of Totem Poles^ tbongh their execution is by no means so fine as that of
the Haidas (see p. 296). The totems here are 20-40 ft. high. One is sur-
mounted by a bear, another by a head with a ^Tyhee* hat, the badge of
a Shaman or ^Medicine Man\ A specimen of such a hat, said to be 400 years
old, is shown in one of the houses. The old Graveyard is so overgrown
with vegetation as to be difficult of access and now contains little of
typical interest. The carved figure of a bear (or wolQ which surmounted
one of tbe graves now lies on Uie ground near two totem-poles.
The Tlinkits themselves will interest the visitors, who will at once
notice such customs as the blackening of the faces of the girls (said to
have for its object the preservation of the complexion) and the wearing of
Idbrets, or imall plugs of silver, ivory, wood, or bone, in the lower lip.
Curiosities of various kinds, includins labrets, silver bracelets, carved horn
and wooden spoons, reedrbaskets, halibut-hooks, gaily painted canoe-paddles,
the carved rattles of the Shamans, and fine carvings in slate may be
purchased from the natives; and the inquisitive may visit the imperfectly
ventilated interior of one of the huts.
At the end of the village farthest from that with the totem-poles are
the Court House and a Mission School for GirlSy the teacher of which is glad
to give information to interested visitors.
The Stikine River is said to receive 300 glaciers , and its scenery is
very fine. It was for a time used as one of the routes to the gold mines
of the Klondike Region (see p. 303).
Soon after leaving Wrangell we thread our way through the de-
vious * Wrangell Narrows , where the channel is marked by stakes
and buoys. The shores here are well-wooded, and at places stretches
of grass border the water like the lawns of an English country-house.
Farther on, in SouJchoi Channel, the scenery is of a more majestic
character. The mountains on either side , though apparently of no
very great height, are covered with snow to within 1000 ft., or less,
of the water ; and their shapes are very varied and beautiful. One
of the most striking is the DeviVt Thumb (9060 ft), a peaked
monolith recalling the Dolomites of Tyrol. We here see the first
glaciers of the voyage (all to the right) : the Le Conie Glacier , high up
on the mountain-side; the larger Patterson Glacier; and the Baird
Glacier, in Thomas Bay, About this part of the trip, too, we may
meet our first piece of floating ice ; while the indescribably beautiful
effects of the late sunsets (9-10 p.m.) will rouse even the most
sluggish enthusiasm. The huge slopes of n6v6, or hardened snow,
are fine. Digit zed by GoOglc
300 Route 58, JUNEAU. From Victoria
Soukhoi Channel widens into Frederick Sound, with Cape Fan
shawe to the right and Kupreanoff Itland to the left; bnt oui course
soon leaves [this sound and carries us to the N. through the long
Stephene Panage, hounded on the W. by the large Admiralty Itlarhd.
HoUcham or Sum Dum Bay, to the right, has been the scene of some
placer-mining. Near the head of the passage, to the right, opens
*Taka Inlet, with its line glaciers, one of which has a sea-faoe
V2 M. long and 100-200 ft. high. The steamer now usually enters
this inlet to afford a close view of this glacier as a substitute for
the Muir Glacier (see p. 304). The muddy grey water of the inlet
is filled with ice-floes and bergs. The surrounding mountains are of
a fantastic, Dolomitio appearance. The chief settlement of Admiralty
Island is KUlimoOy on its W. coast, with large oil-works. — Just
beyond the mouth of the Taku Inlet we enter the pretty Oastineau
Channdj between DougUu hUtnd and the mainland.
890 M. Juneau (Circle City ; Occidental ; Juneau) , now the capital
of Alaska, is situated on the mainland, on a narrow strip of compara-
tively level ground between the sea and a precipitous, snow-seamed
mountain (3300 ft.). Settled in 1880 and named after a nephew of
the founder of Milwaukee, it is occupied mainly by miners. In 1900
it contained 1864 inhab., about equally divided between whites and
natives or half-breeds. Juneau contains a theatre, several churches,
two or three hotels, a woollen-mill and other industrial establish-
ments, and some shops for the sale of Alaskan furs (sea-otter, seal,
otter, beaver, bear, musk-rat, fox, etc. ; see, however, p. 294) and the
famous Chilkat Blankets. The last are made of the hair of mountain-
goats and coloured with native dyes, but genuine examples, worth
$ 60-100, are now rare, and most of those offered for sale are of wool
and stained with aniline dyes. Juneau supports two newspapers.
About Vs ^* to the N. of Juneau is a village of the Auk Indiaru^ a
curioui and primitiYe, but very dirty settlement, which will repay a viBit.
The traveller may bargain here for a trip in an Indian canoe. Behind the
village is a native (kmeUry^ with curious little huts containing the cremated
remadna and personal effect* of the deceased.
A well-made road leads from Juneau through the highly picturesque
*C«MonofVie Gold Creek, with its waterfalls and small glacier, to (8i/sM.)
Silver Bow Mines, and offers a trip well worth making if time allows.
The Silver Bow Basin contains gold-mines of great promise, and both quarte
and Diacer mining are successfully prosecuted.
On Douglas Island, nearly opposite Juneau, is the famous *Tr*adwell
Odd Mine, at which the steamers generally call. The mine, which is close
to the wharf and easily visited, has one of the largest quartz-crushing mills
in the world, employing 880 stamps. The quarts does not produce more than
$ 1-6 of metal per ton, but is so easily and economically worked that the
profits are said to be enormous. It is credibly stated that the company
that owns it refused $ 16,000,000 for the mine , and the gold actually in
sight is estimated to be worth 4-5 times as much as the price paid for
the entire district of Alaska (p. 298). Many of the best workers in the
mine are natives, who earn $2-3 per day. Many others are Slavs.
As Gastineau Channel has not been charted above Juneau , the
steamer now returns to its S. end and then proceeds to the N.
through Saginaw Channel, on the W. side of Douglas Island. This
to Sitka. SKAGWAY. 68. Route. 301
debouches on *Lyim Canal, a fine fjord extending for 60 M. towards
the N. It is flanked with snow-mountains, rising ahroptly from the
very edge of the water to a height of 6000 ft., and presents , per-
haps, the grandest scenic features we have yet encountered. To the
right, on Resurrection JBay, a little to the N. of Bemer'a Bay, lies
Seward City (500 inhab.), whence a railway (* Alaska Central JRaJl-
way') is in contemplation to (ca. 600 M.) Fairbanks and other points
in the Tanana District (see p. 304). About a score of glaciers, large
and small, descend from the ravines towards the fjord, among which
the Auk, Eagle (r.), and Davidson Glaciers are conspicuous. The
last-mentioned, near the head of the Qord and on its W. side, spreads
out to a width of 3 M. as it reaches tlfe water-level, its front being
partly masked by a tree-grown moraine. Passengers are generally
landed here for a closer inspection of the glacier.
Lynn Canal ends in two prongs, named the Chilkoot and Chilkat
Inlets, recently come into prominence in connection with the rush
to the gold -district of the Klondike. In these inlets the tourist
reaches the highest latitude of the trip (59** 10' 36" N. ; about that
of the Orkney Islands, Christiania, and St. Petersburg). At mid-
summer there are not more than 3-4 hrs. of partial darkness here.
On the E. bank of Chilkoot Inlet (the E. arm) lies Skagway
(FifthAvenue, Golden North, from $2.50), a busy Uttle town of (1900)
3117inhab., the terminus of the White Pass Railway (see below), now
forming practically the only route used in approaching the Klondike
and Yukon districts from the coast. It is furnished with hotels,
outfltting-establishments, and other accommodations for the miner.
The steamer stops here long enough to allow of an excursion to the
head of the pass. Good paths lead from Skagway to Mt, Dewey j Den-
ver Glacier J and various picturesque waterfalls and lakes. — Dyea,
on the W. bank, was formerly a rival of Skagway, but has been
deserted since the opening of the railway. — On Chilkat Inlet lie
Pyramid Harbor and Chilkat, with prosperous salmon- canneries.
There are also other settlements on the inlet. This is the district in
which the fine Chilkat blankets (p. 800) are made. Good echoes
may be wakened off the glaciers.
From Skagway to White Hobsb, 111 M., Pacific and Arctic
Railway ( White Pass and Yukon Route; narrow-gauge) in 7 hrs. (fare
$ 20; return-fare to White Pass $ 5; through- fare to Dawson from
Seattle, Vancouver, or Victoria ca. $80 during season of navigation).
Travellers are strongly recommended to make at least the trip to the
summit of the pass and back, as the mountain, cliff, and canon ^
scenery is very striking, while the construction of the line itself is *
also interesting. — The line runs through a level wooded country
to (41/2 M.) Boulder, at the foot of the pass, and then begins to
ascend rapidly. Farther on the railway has been blasted out of an
almost perpendicular wall of living rock, and at (8^2 ^0 ^W^^''^
302 Route 58, WHITE PASS. From Victoria
the cliflfs actually overhang the track. Below, to the right, we see
the rushing Skagway River and the old trail to the Klondike.
Opposite rise the Saw-Tooth Mts. At (14 M.) Qlacier the train is
within 1/2 M. of the great glacier of the Coast Range. We thread a
tunnel and cross a canon by a steel cantilever-bridge 216 ft. high.
19 M. Switchback,
20 V2 M. White Pass (2885 ft.), grandly situated at the head of
the pass and commanding a superb view. It lies on the Canadian
frontier and contains both the American and Canadian custom-
houses, while the 'Union Jack* and 'Stars and Stripes' float side by
side at the station. Small luggage is examined here, and the search
for smuggled gold-dust is a great annoyance to the tourist. The
waters of Summit Lake flow to the Pacific Ocean through the Skag-
way River and to Bering's Sea vi4 the Yukon.
We now descend along the Thompson River, 32 M. Log Cabin
was formerly the Canadian customs -station. — 40^2 M. Bennett
(2158 ft. J luncheon-station) lies at the S. end of Lake Bennett,
a narrow mountain-bound sheet of water 27 M. long, the E. bank
of which the railway skirts. As we approach (67 M.) Caribou, at the
N. end of Lake Bennett, we cross its outlet, flowing into Narea or
Tagish Lake,
Caribou is the starting-point for a visit to the gold -producing Atlin
DUiriet, A steamer (through-fare to Atlin $10) plies via Tagish Lake and
Windy Arm to the Tdku Arm, at the foot of Jubilee Mountain (ca. 9800 ft.).
Stops are made at (59 M.) Golden Gate and (74 M.) Tahu City. A small
railway takes us hence along the Atlintoo River to (3 H.) SeoUa Say, in
Lake Aflin, on which another steamer plies to (5 H.) AtUn (Grand Hotel,
from $ 8), on the E. bank of the lake.
The train now follows the Watson River to Lewis Lake, the level
of which was lowered during the construction of the railway. Several
other small lakes are passed. 75 M. Lansdovme; 88^2 ^* Robinson,
At (104^/2 M.) Wigan a short halt is made to allow a view of *Mile8
Canon (to the right), a ravine 8/3 M. long, in which the water drops
32 ft., while the current runs at the rate of 15 M. per hour. This
canon and ♦ White Horse Rapids (8/3 M. long), just below it, were
frequently dared on raft and scow by the gold-seekers in the early
rush to the Klondike.
HI M. White Horse (2078 ft. ; White Pats^ Imperial^ from $ 3),
on Fifty Mile or Lewes River, the present terminus of the railway
and the centre of a productive copper-mining district, has become
a place of some importance with about 1000 inhabitants.
From White Hobsb to Dawson, ca. 460 M., steamer of the
British Yukon Navigation Co, in summer in about 40 hrs. (fare
$ 30-50, meals and berths included).
The steamers, which are comfortable and well appointed, run from
about June 1st till the middle of October. The Canadian Government has
done much to improve navigation. In winter the traffic is carried on
^y four-horse sleiglis (tri-weeUy), which cover the distance of their more
toSUka, DAWSON. 58. Route, 303
direct route (390 H.) in 5 days (fare $ 75-100, according to the condition
of the trail; 26 Iba. of baggage free, other small articles 80c. per lb. r, heavy
trnnks despatched by freight-sleighs). The nights are passed at clean and
fairly comfortable Road Souse* (meals $178} bed $1, private room extra).
Selays of horses are provided every 20-25 M. In the '^between' seasons of
spring and autumn, stage-coaches ran over the Government trail instead of
sleighs. In summer the nights are extremely brief in this district.
About 25 M. after leaving White Horse the steamer reaches
Lake Ldbarge, an expansion of the Lewes River, 34 M. in length,
flanked with huge red rocks on the W. and gray limestone hills on
the E. The next part of the river is very tortuous and is known as
Thirty Mile Biver. The scenery is varied, and the banks are covered
with wild flowers. On the right we pass (90 M. from White Horse)
the mouth of the Hootalinqua River and farther on those of the
(126 M.) Big Salmon River and the Little Salmon River, Carmaek
(160 M. from White Horse) lies at the mouth of the last-named
river, and to the right rises Tantalw Butte, A little farther on we
shoot the Five Finger Rapids^ where the river is little more than
twice as wide as the steamer. About 6 M. below are the Rink Rapids,
282 M. Fort Selkirk, founded by the Hudson Bay Co. in 1860,
lies at the confluence of the Lewes and the Pelly River , the united
stream taking the name of Yukon. Below Fort Selkirk the river,
with its granite bluffs and numerous islands, is more or less impos-
ing. After about 98 M. more the muddy White River joins the
Yukon on the left, while the Stewart and the Indian River come in
on the right farther on. Just before reaching Dawson we pass the
mouth of the famous Klondike River (right).
460 M. DawBon (Regina, Fairoiew, from $4; U, S, and Ger,
Consuls; Fr, Agent), founded in 1896 on the right bank of the Yukon,
at its confluence with the Klondike, is the capital of Yukon Territory
(p. 263) and the centre of the Klondike Mining Begiont. It is now
a bustling little town with about 9000 inhabitants, It was visited by
two destructive flres in 1899, but these seem to have been no more
than slight temporary checks to its prosperity. Order is excellently
maintained by the North-West Mounted Police (p. 253). The total
value of the gold produced in the Klondike Region since its dis-
covery in 1896 is estimated at about $ 120,000,000 (24,000,000i.).
Dawson lies at the base of the Dome (1800 ft.), which affords a
splendid ♦View. Comp. 'Alaska and the Klondike*, by Prof, Angela
Heilprin (1899), John S, MacLain's book with the same title (see
p. 298), *Three Years in the Klondike', by J. Lynch (1904), and
*Into the Yukon', by Wm, S, Edwards (Cincinnati; 1904).
From Dawson a railway runs to (12 M.) BofMnia or '■The Forks', in the
Klondike District, and the traveller is advised to take this trip for the sake
of a sight of the rich ^claims^ and placer-miners on the various creeks of
the Klondike. If he is lucky, he may have a chance to see a *clean ap\
t It is said that 'Klondike' is an incorrect form of <Troandik\ an In-
dian word meaning Hammer Creek and referring to the barrier of poles for
catching salmon, hammered by the natives into the ground^t the mouth
of the river (also known as Deer or Reindeer River). edbyVjOOQlC
304 Route 58. MUIR GLACIER. From Victoria
From Dawson steamers descend the Tukon all tbe way to its mouth.
About 50 M. below Dawson lies Cuddhy^ at the mouth (left bank) of Forty
Mile Greeks along the banks of which are situated many of the best mining
claims. About 100 M. from Dawson, the Tukon is crossed by the boundary
between Tukon Territory and Alaska; and Ecigle OUy^ near this point, is
the contemplated terminus of the railway from Valdez (p. 906). At Fort
Yukon (380 M. from Dawson) we touch the Arctic Circle. The river now
bends to the 8.W. — From (700 M.) Tanana steamers ascend the Tanana
River to points in the rich Tanana District, including Fairbanks (1000 H.
from Dawson), which disputes with Nome (p. 800) the position of the most
populous place in Alaska (ca. 12,000 inhab.). A railway unites Fairbanks
• with Chma and OUmore. — The end of tbe Tukon steamer route is (1600 M.)
St. Miehaefs (see p. 306), a U. S. military post on an island in Norton Sound,
Sea-going steamers run hence to (125 H.) Nome (see p. 806).
From Skagway (p. 301) the steamer returns to the S. end of
Lynn Canal and then bends to the right (N.W.) into ley Strait,
Opening off this to the right is *01acier Bay, which extends to the
N.W. for about 45 M., with a width contracting firom 12 M. to 3 M.
The mountains Immediately abutting on the bay are comparatively
low (4000-7000 ft.), but as we ascend it we enjoy a magnificent
**yiew to the left of theEairweather Bange» Including (named from
left to right) Mt, La Pirouse (10,740 ft.), Mt, Crillon (15,900 ft.),
Mt. Xftt/1/a (11,830 ft.), andMt. FairtreatAer (15,290 ft.). The sur-
face of the bay is full of small icebergs and floes detached from the
large glaciers which descend into it, and the most careful navigation
cannot avoid an occasional bump. At the head of the bay is the
wonderful ♦♦Muir Olacier, the visit to which was, prior to 1899, the
grandest single feature of the Alaskan expedition. An earthquake in
that year, however, changed the conditions so entirely, by disrupting
the glacier and filling the bay with ice, that the steamer cannot now
approach nearer than a point 5-10 M. from the face of the glacier.
This stupendous glacier enters the sea with a front li/z M. wide and
150-200 ft. high, probably extending 700 ft. below the water. Nine main
streams of ice unite to form the trunk of the glacier, which occupies a
vast amphitheatre, 30-40 M. long. Seventeen smaller arms join the main
stream. The width of the glacier when it breaks through tbe mountains
(Pyramid Peak to the W., Mt. Wright and Mt. Case to the E.) to descend
to the sea is about 8 H. The superficial area of the glacier is 850 sq. M.,
or about the same as that of Huntingdonshire (Jostedalsbrse in Korway
470 sq. M.). Dr. John Muir was the first to visit the glacier (1879). Prof.
O. F. Wright, who explored the glacier in 1886, estimated its rate of
movement at 70 ft. per day in the centre and 10 ft at the sides (an average
of 40 ft.), as compared with lVi-3 ft. at the Mer de Glace; but Prof. H. F.
Reid, of the Case School of Applied Science (Cleveland, Ohio), who spent
the summers of 1890 and 1892 here, found the most rapid movement not
more than 7 ft. per day. In August about 200.000,000 cubic feet of ice
fall into the inlet daily. Though the glacier thus moves forward at a
comparatively rapid rate, investigation shows that it loses more ice in
summer than it gains in winter and that its front is retrograding steadily
from year to year. It is evident from the general appearance of the
enclosinff hills that the ice-stream once occupied the whole of Glacier
Bay; and numerous features of the moraines and adjacent rocks give proof
of more recent retrocession. Vancouver found tbe bay blocked by a wall
of ice in 1794. A visit to the glacier made by Mr. C. L. Andrews in 1906
showed that it had receded about 21/2 H. since 1899 and makes it jhiot im*
Digitized by VjOOQIC
to Sitka. SITKA. 58, BouU, 305
Erobable that the end of the career of the Hair as a tidewater glacier is at
and". See the very interesting reports (with maps, etc.) of Prof. H. F. Beid's
two expeditions and the article by Mr. Andrews in the ^National Geographic
Magazine* for Dec., 1903.
The nearest way from Glacier Bay to Sitka would be through
Crois Sound and down the W. side of Chiehagoff Island, but to avoid
the unpleasantness of an outside passage the steamer returns through
Icy Strait (p. 304) and Chatham Sound (p. 296). About one-third
of the way down the latter we diverge to the right through *Peril
Strait, between the islands of Chiehagoff(]S,') and Baranoff(S,'), This
strait is broad at first but ultimately contracts to a width of V2 ^m
where its wooded hills and islets recall the scenery of Loch Lomond.
As we approach Sitka we have a fine view, to the right, of Mt, Edge-
cunibe (see below), with its crater half filled with snow.
1320 M. Sitka (^MiUmore's HoUl, $2), down to 1906 the capital
of Alaska and seat of the governor, is very beautifully situated on
the W. side of Baranoff Island, with a fine bay dotted with green
islands in front and a grand range of snow-mountains behind. The
bay is sheltered by Kruzoff Island, with the extinct volcano Mt, Edge^
cumbe (2800 ft.), while immediately to the E. of the town towers
Mt, Vmtovaia (3210 ft.). In 1900 Sitka contained 1400 inhab.,
two thirds of whom were natives. The town was founded in 1804
by Alex. Baranoff, the first Russian governor of Alaska (see
W. Irving's *Astoria'). Sitka lies in 57** N. lat. (about the same as
that of Aberdeen or Riga) and, owing to the Kuro Siwo, or Japanese
current, has a milder winter than Boston, in spite of the pro-
pinquity of eternal snow (mean summer temp. 54®, winter 32**).
The temperature seldom falls to zero. The rainfall is very high
(ca. 110 inches).
On a height to the right of the dock (fine view) stand the ruins of
Baranoff Oaetle, the residence of the Sussian governors, burned down in
18d4. — Near the head of the main street, leading from the wharf into
the town, is the Butao-Chreek Ohnrch, with its green roof and bulbous
spire, which contains some intereating paintings and vestments (small fee
charged for admission). Many of the natives and half-breeds are members
of the Greek church, and Sitka is the seat of the Orthodox Greek bishop
of the United States. Several of the substantial old Log Houses of the
Bnstians are still in use. — Turning to the right at the head of the main
street and following the road along the beach, we reach the buildings
of the Preibyterlan Kiiiion, where visitors are welcome. The *8itka
Huseum, a highly interesting collection of Alaskan products, is installed
in .a building in the mission-grounds, fitted up like the dwelling of a native
c^f, with a totem-pole at the entrance. — By passing up between these
bmldings we reach the *Indian Biver Walk (a round of about 2 M.), where
(he visitor with preconceived ideat of Sitka*8 arctic climate will be sur-
prised to find luxuriant vegetation, fine trees, and a brawling brook, not
unlike such typical British walks as the Torrent Walk at Dolgelley. One
of the characteristic plants is the *Devirs Club' ( Echi$Kipanax horrida).
The Native Yillage, or RancheriSy lies to the left of the wharf and is
occupied by 800-iO(X) Sitkans, including many interesting specimens such
as *Mr8. Tom* and *Sitka Jack\ who are always at home to steamboat-
visitors. Tourists occasionally get up canoe-races amone the natives, and
exhibitions of native dancing are often arranged for their benefit Behind
the village is the native and Russian cemetery. C^ r\r\n\o
Ba«d«k»'s (3anada. 3rd Edit. Digit zed by J^OOgie
306 Route 68. MOUNT MoKINLET.
Native cariosities may be bought at Sitka oompaaatively cheap, and a
Russian samovar may still occasionally be picked up here. Travellers
should also vifit the office of the Akukem (10 c,% a weekly paper.
Sitka is the turning-point of onr voyage, and we now retrace the
way we have come (vi^ Icy Strait, Chatham Sound, Frederick Sound,
etc.). The distance to Victoria is about 1100 M., taking 5 days. As
a rule few stops are made on the homeward journey ; but much fine
scenery, preyiously passed at night, is now seen by daylight. Pas-
sengers for the CancuUan Pacific Railway leave the steamer at Yio-
toria and proceed thence by a smaller steamer to Vancouver (p. 284).
Tourists who wish to go farther to the K. may avail themselves of
the steamer of the Akuka Commercial Co., which leaves Sitka for Unakuka
abouth he 8th day of each month while navigation is open (round trip of
2500 H., taking about a month i fare $ 120). This excursion affords splendid
views of the St. Elias Alps and the enormous glaciers of the Alaska main-
land. The sea is generally smooth in summer. Holders of retarn*tickets
of the Pacific Ck)a8t Steamship Co. are entiUed to stop over at Sitka and
return by a later steamer. — Steamers of the Aleuia Pacific NavigaHcn Co,
also ply from Seattle to Sitka and TJnalaska.
Steamers now run regularly from Seattle (9 days) and other ports to
Nome (Hotels) near Cape Rodney^ about 800 M. to the K. of Unalaska. This
is the headquarters of a district in which large quantities of gold have
been discovered since 1898 and is the largest town in Alaska, containing
12,488 inhab. in 1900. Steamers to 8t. MichaoV*^ see p. 904. — Other
steamers ply to Valdex, at the head of JYince WUHam Sounds whence a
railway is being constructed to B<xffle (p. 304) to serve the copper-mines
of the ^hinterland'.
Mt. Logan (19,639 fl.), for a time believed to be the loftiest mountain
in N. America, is situated in Canada, just beyond the Alaskan firontier, to
the N. of 60* N. lat. and about 46 M. from the coast. A littie to the W.
of it is Ht. St. Eliaa (18,024 ft.), first ascended by Prince Luiei of Savoy
in 1897. These mountains are nearly 800 H. to the W.N.W. of Glacier Bay
^. 304) and are not visible on any part of the trip above described. —
At. McKinley (20,900 ft^, the real monarch of K. American mountains,
rises in Alaska about 300 M. to the W. of the international boundary and
about 130 M. to the N. of Cook Inlet. In ca. 68" N. latitude. It stands at
the watershed of the Yukon (p. 902). the Ktutokwimy and the SumoUm
(Stuhitna)^ the three greatest rivers of Alaska, and preients on every side
a sucession of granite cliffs and overhanging glaciers. The largest of the
latter are the Fidile and Ruth Gladerti on the E. slope, and the Ednna
Olaeier^ on the W. On the W. Mt. McKinley rises abruptly out of a low
country, 'abounding in big same, but on the E. it is screened bv a belt
of mountains 8000 ft. in height. From the S.E. it appears like *a great
bee-hive, weighted down with all the snow it can possibly carry'. Mt.
McKinley was ascended in 1906 by Dr. Fr«d, A. Cook, accompanied by
Edward BarrUU. The ascent took eight days (Sept. 9-l6th).
yGoogk
307
Grand Trunk Pacific Railway.
The Grand Trunk Paoifle Bailway Go. was incorporated in 1903 for
the purpose of constructing a main line of railway, 8600 M. in length,
across Canada from tht Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean, besides several
brandi-lines of considerable importance. At the time this Handbook went
to press, no part of this gigantic system had been, opened for traffic, though
about 1900 M. of it were in course of construction. The undertaking, how-
ever, is of such vast and far-reaching importance that any guidebook to
Canada would be incomplete that did not give a sketch of it, finished or
unfinished.
The line will begin at or near Moncton (p. 87), and will traverse
the provinces of New Brunswick, Quebec, Ontario, ManitQba, Sas-
katchewan, Alberta, and British Columbia. It will open a vast
country rich in agricultural, timber, and mineral resources, and
win provide an additional outlet for the enormous grain-crops of
the Canadian North-West, as well as create a new market for the
manufactured products of Eastern Canada. It will be a shorter route
by several hundred miles than any now existing between Europe
and the Far East. For purposes of construction the railway is
divided into two great sections ; the Eastern Division , extending
from the Atlantic to Winnipeg, and the Western Division, reaching
from Winnipeg to the Pacific. The Eastern Division will be built at
the cost of the Canadian Government and leased to the Grand Trunk
Pacific Railway Co. for a period of 50 years, at an annual rent (after
the first seven years) of 3 per cent on the cost of construction. The
Western Division will be built at the cost of the Company, with the
aid of a Government guarantee of its First Mortgage Bonds. The
total cost of the Company's share of the undertaking is estimated at
$ 123,600,000 (24,700,000^.). The date fixed for the completion of
the whole railway is 1911 ; but it is expected that some sections of
it will be open for traffic in 1907.
As at present contemplated, the railway will run from Moncton
across New Brunswick in a N.W. direction, and then traverse the
province of Quebec to JUvis (p. 167). At Chaudilre Junction, 6 M.
above Quebec, the line will cross the St. Lawrence by the largest
cantilever-bridge in the world, 8/5 M. long and 150 ft. above high-
water. It will then run back, along the N. bank of the St. Lawrence,
to Quebec (p. 146). From this point the railway will run in an
almost direct line to Winnipeg (p. 246; 1800 M. from Moncton),
passing near LcUce Ahitibi (p. 240} and Lake Nipigon (p. 235). This
part of its course will be from 80 M. to 120 M. to the N. of that of
the Canadian Pacific Bailway.
Branch-lines wUl be constructed from points on the Eastern
Division between Quebec and Winnipeg to (ca. 180 M.) Montreal
(p. 126), to (ca. 300 M.) North Bay (p. 233 ; or Oravehhurat, p. 199),
and to (ca. 220 M.) Port Arthur and Fort William (p. 236).
The Western Division is subdivided into the Prairie Sectiony
extending to the foot of the Rocky Mts. (1100 M. from Winnipeg),
20*^oogle
308 GRAND TRUNK PACIFIC RAILWAY.
and the Mountain Section j reaching thence to the Pacific coast
(700 M.). The country traversed by the Prairie Section comprises
the great agricultural region of the North- West, which, it is esti-
mated, contains a wheat-growing area larg^y in excess of that of
the United States. From Winnipeg the railway runs at first almost
due W., paralleling the Canadian Pacific Railway, but after throw-
ing off a short spur-line to Brandon (p. 251), it bends to the N.W.
The next branch-line runs to (ca. 70 M.) Regina (p. 263). From a
point near BaltUford one branch will run to the N.E. to (ca. 140 M.)
Prince Albert (p. 263), while another will run to the S.W. to (ca.
220 M.) Calgary (p. 266}.
Edmonton (see p. 264) will be an important divisional point on
the railway. Beyond Edmonton the exact course of the railway has
not yet been determined, one of the contemplated routes across the
Rocky Mts. into British Columbia running about 150 M. to the N.
of the other. The first would cross the Peace Biver District (p. 264),
not very far to the S. of the Little Slave Lake (p. 264), while the
other would strike the Eraser Biver near Mt, Brown and ascend along
its bank. It is intended to constructed a branch-line running to the
N.W. to (ca. 800 M.) Dawson (p. 303), in the Yukon.
The terminus on the Pacific Coast is situated on the Chim'Sy-an
Peninsula (p. 296), about 26 M. to the S. of Port Simpson and the
Alaska boundary. It is to be named Prince Rupert, after the brilliant
nephew of Charles I, who was the first governor of the Hudson
Bay Co. (1670) , while for at least a century thereafter the great
North- West of Canada was known as Bupertsland (comp. p. 247).
yGoogk
INDEX.
Abbott, Mi. 276. 276.
— Pass 270.
Abenakis Springs 143.
Aberdeen 263.
— , Mt. 270. 269.
Abittbi, Lake 240.
Abaptic Harbour 82.
Acadia 63. 73. 86. etc.
— Iron Works 84. i
Acton 141.
Adamsville 88.
Adela 273.
Adirondack Junction 16,
47.
— Mts. 13. 16. 189. etc
Admaaton 204.
Admiralty Island 300.
Afton 61.
-, Mt. 279.
Agassiz 283.
— , Lake 247-
Agincoort 190.
Agnes Lake 269. 270.
Ahmic Harbour 200.
— , Lake 200.
Ainslie, Lake 66. 63.
Ainsworth 288.
Airdrie 257.
Alaska 296.
Albany 18. 16.
Albert 48.
Alberta 255. 253. xxvi.
Albert Canon 279.
— Mines 48.
Alberton 101.
Alburgb 16.
Alert Bay 295.
Aleutian Islands 297.
Alexander Archipelago
298.
— Bay 121.
Alexandria (Minn.) 249.
— (Ont.) 176.
— Bay 228.
Alexis 282.
Alfred 175.
Algoma 223. 233.
Algonquin Park >201. 201.
232.
Alison's 281.
Alkali Lake 282.
AUagash River 46.
AUandale 198. 211.
Allumette Lake 232.
Almonte 231.
Alpena 77.
Alport 208.
Alton Bay 18.
Amherst 85.
Amherstburg 212.
Amiskwi Falls 271.
— Pass 271.
— Biver 271.
. Amqui 93.
Amsterdam 16.
Andenne Lorette 140.
Andover 40. 24.
Androscoggin, the 25. 24,
Angle Peak 273.
Anglesey 5.
Anguille, Gape 115. 103.
— Hills 123.
Annapolis 75. 79.
— Basin 76. 75.
— River 75.
— Valley 75.
Annette Island 298.
Annonciation 175.
Anse k TEan 169.
Anthracite 258. 262.
AnUcosti 3. 91. etc.
Antigonish 61.
— Mts. 61.
Antwerp 5. 7. 8.
Apishkangama, the 234.
Apohaqui 48.
Appin Junction 207.
Apple Hill 186.
Arcadia 80.
Areola 250. 253.
Ardoise, Mt. 71.
Argyle 80.
Arichat 66. 64.
Arisaig 61.
Arizona Junction 262.
Armstrong 280.
Arnold's Cove 121.
Amprior 70Q. 231.
Aroostook, the 34. 40.
— Junction 40.
Arranmore 3.
Arrowhead 287.
Arrow Lakes 287.
— River 252.
Arthabaska 141.
Arthur Passage 296.
Ascot 21.
Ashcroft 281.
Ashouapmouchouan, the
164. Uv.
Ashtnoulou Mts. 281.
Askwith 46.
Aspotogan, Mt 78.
Aspy Bay 69. 66.'
Assametquaghan 92.
Assiniboia 263. 256.
Assiniboine, the 245. 249.
251.
— , Mt. 262.
Aston 140.
Asulkan Glacier 277.
— Pass 277.
— Valley 275.
Asylum 207.
Athabasca 252. 253. 266.
-, the 264. 266. 282.
— Lake 264. 266.
.- Landing 264. 265.
Athelstan 16.
Atherley Junction 199.
Athol 86.
AUkokan 244.
Atlin 302.
— Lake 802.
Atocas, the 170.
Augusta 24.
Auk Glacier 301.
Aulac 86.
Aurora 198.
— , Vale of 198.
Ausable Chasm 13. 139.
Austin 261.
Avalanche Mt. 276. 274.
Avalon 108. 110.
Avon, the 71. 72.
Avondale (Nfd.) 120.
— (N. 8.) 61.
Avonport 72.
Ayer's Flats 20.
Aylesford 76.
— Lakes 76.
Aylmer 182. - t
-, Lake 21. r-OOglC
310
nn>EX.
JBcar Greek ?n. STL
^HOJj 257.
%Ut*:t hrvA. 122.
h^h€a%, lU. 278.
- VefteW.
Rftfrd 0]»eier 29f.
B*k«r. If t 289,
B«U2W. 201.
Bald Mt.40.
B»Mwfa IB,
BflUbor 288,
-Mt 278. 212.
- Pm0 278,
BalcooU 2S2.
B»ir«orMD lU,
Balmoral 260.
Bftlflam Lake 187.
Banff 208. 268.
Baoffor IM.
Baokbfad 281.
Bannlof 2it,
ftaracboff (K. 8.) 83.
- (P. Q.) W.
Baranoff laland 306.
Barkenrille 282.
Bark Lake 204.
Barnet 18.
Bamey'f BWer 61.
Barra Strait 68.
Barrle 198. 190.
BarrlngtOD 80. 81.
- - PaMac« 80.
BarrVt Bay 204.
Bartiboeae 80.
Bartlett^i Harbour 119.
BartoDTille 212.
Ba«in Eoad 62.
Baniiano 266.
BaMt Lake 282.
Bath Ortek 270.
Batharat 89.
- Harbour 89.
Batlflcan 140. 144.
— , the 140. 163.
Batocbe 263.
Battle Harbour 117. 119.
- liland 117.
- Eivar 267.
Baoldf Cape 117.
Baxtar's Harbour 74.
Bayfield, Mt. 4.
Bay de Verde 104. 120.
- of lalanda 116. 104.
123.
Bayi, Lake of 200.
Bay Bt. Lawrence 69.
- Shore 82.
BaytTlUa 200.
'— Lake22L
--Bfrer !«.
BeaabaarUaad SBu
Beaace immc^^tm 2L
BeMcerille 2L
U.
2iL
201.208.
.Beauio^l08. lAH
BeamportiSA, Idf.
I—, Lake 181.
Beampr^ 180.
iBeaM^joar 248.
(Bearer 282.
— Brook 88.
-Dams 211.
Bearerfoot 272. 278.
'— Baafe 2T8.
'Beaver Gate 27i.
I— Harbor 42.
iBearerhlll Lake 264.
iBeaver Hilb 264. 262.
Beavennoath 274.
Bearer Hirer 274.
B^eaneonr. the 141.
Bedford (Man.) 244.
— (11.8.) 83. W.
— (P. E. I.) 101.
— Basin 83. 61. etc.
Bedeque Bay 96. 100.
Beehire. the 270.
Beeton 211. 206.
Begbie, Xt 280.
Belair 140.
BeUa Bella 296.
Belle lile (Island) 117. 3.
(Straits) 8. 117. etc.
Belleisle Bay 34.
Belleoram 114.
Belle Birer 207.
— Biri^re 166.
Belleville (N. 8.) 80.
— (Ont.) 189. 226.
Bellerue Ht. 161.
Bell Isle 120.
Bellireau 82.
Bellows Falls 16. 17.
Belly Birer 266. 267.
Beloeil 141. 143.
— Mt. 138. 186. 16. 141.
Bemis 20.
Benito 268.
Bennett 302.
~, Lake 802.
Berner's Bay 801.
Benson, Mt. 294.
Benton 121.
Berlin (N. H.) 26.
— (Ont.) 206. 207.
(BesOier USl UX KT.
30.
Bettys Owe U<.
Bererfy 18. 2L
Bie»L 4.
4.
BiddekfMKL
Biddle, WLTTL
BieariDe 157.
Bie Bay Potet ia&
Bifot ((^kat.) 18L
Kg flihaea. tte 808.
mick Lake 281.
— Point 48.
— Birer 263.
Bireky Core aee Cuttee.
Birtle26L
Biseo 234.
Bisbop*j PaUa 132.
Biasett282.
Blacktram 175.
Black Caioa (Freser
Rir.) 282. 288.
Blackhead Ua
Black B^ids 18S.
-Blrttl82.
BlacVs 36.
BlackriUe 89.
Blackwater Jonctiom
190.
Blaebenr Creek 271.
Blain 287.
Blanc Sablon 119.
Blind Birer 281.
Blomidon, Cape 74. 72. 73.
— Mts. 103.
Bloody Brook 75.
Blow-me-down H ts. 103.
Blue Mountain Lake 16.
— Sea 182.
Bluff Point 18.
Boar's Head 84.
Bobcaygeon 188. 187.
Boiestown 89.
Boisbriant (Ch&t.) 186.
Boisdale 68.
Bonanza 303.
Bonarenture 90.
Bonarista 116.
— Bay 121. 116.
i^nfleld232.
Bonhenr 242.
Bonne Bay 116. 119.
— Esp^rance 119.
Bonney Mt. 278.
Bonny Biver 42.
Bordeaux 175.
Boston 17. 6. 19. etc.
INDEX.
311
Boston Bar 288.
Bouchard, the 167.
Bouohenrille (Ont.) 244.
— (P. Q.) 143.
Bouchette. Lake 163.
Boulardene Island 67. 63.
Bonlder 301.
Boulogne 8.
Boundary 46.
— Bay 284.
Bourgeau Hts. 269. 262.
Bourg Louis ltt2.
Bont-de-risle 143.
Bow, the256. 256. 267. etc.
Bowden 257.
BoweU 255.
Bow FaUs 260.
— Lake 270.
Bowmanville 189.
Bow Range 268.
— River Gap 257.
Boyce 237.
— Lake 237.
Bracehridge 200. 203.
Brackley Beach 101. 100.
Bradford 198.
Bradore Bay 3.
Brampton 206.
Brandon (Man.) 261. 262.
etc.
— (N. T.) 182.
— Hills 251.
Brantford 213.
Bras d'Or Channels 67.
Lakes 65. 62. 63.
Brattleboro 15.
Bremen 7.
Bremner 234.
Breton, Cape 61.
Bretton Woods 20.
Brewer's Hills Locks 183
Bridgeport (Ct.) 15.
— CN. S.) 69.
Bridgetown 76.
Bridgewater 79. 77. 81.
Brigham Junction 47.
Brier Island 82.
Brierley^s Brook 61.
Brig Bay 119.
Brighton 189.
Brigus 120.
— Junction 120.
Bristol 40.
Britannia 182.
— Cove 120.
British Columbia 292.
270. xxrii. x. etc.
Broadaze, the 270.
Broad Cove see
St. Philip's.
Broadview 252.
Brocket 267.
Brockville 229. 182. etc.
Brookfield 84.
— Mines 77.
Brosseau's 14.
Broughton Strait 296.
Brown's Flat 34.
— Point 85.
Brownsville 213.
Brownville June. 46.
Broyle, Cape 113. 104.
Bruce 233. 223.
Brudenell, the 101.
Bruderheim 264.
Bt^U Lake 204.
Brnndage's Point 34.
Brunswick 24.
Brunton 266.
Bryant's Pond 25.
Bryce, Mt. 270.
Buckhom Lake 187.
Buckingham 175. 184.
Buctonche 87.
Bull Rock Lighthouse 6,
Bulls, Bay of 113.
Bunker Hill U.
Burbridge 182.
Burdett 266.
Burgeo 114. 124.
— Islands 114.
Burgess, Mt. 272. 271.
Burin 114. 124.
Bnrketon Junction 188.
Burk's Falls 200.
Burleigh FaUs 187.
Burlington (Ont.) 209.
— rVt.) 14. 17.
— Beach 210. 209.
— Crossing 209. 210.
Burmis 267.
Bumaby 234.
Burnt Church 88.
— River 188.
Burrard Inlet 284. 286.
Burritrs Rapids 183.
Burton 35.
Burton's 83.
Bushnell 287.
Bute Inlet 296.
Buxton, Mt. 296.
Buzza's Point 36.
Byng Inlet 223.
Oabano 96.
Cacouna 168. 4. 94.
Cadboro Bay 291.
Calais 43.
Caldwell (N. T.) 13.
— (Ont.) 204.
Caledonia 77.
— Springs 174. 185.
Caledon Mts. 222.
Calf of Man 2.
Calf Point 81.
Calgary 256. 267.
Callander 201.
Calshot Castle 7.
Calumet (IM. and Falls)
232.
- (P. Q.) 175.
Calvary, Mt. 185.
Calvert Island 295.
Cambridge (Mass.) 17.
— (Ont.) m.
Cameron 188.
Lake 187. 188.
Campbell Island 296.
Campbellton 91.
Campobello Island 44. 22.
43.
Canaan 88.
— River 48.
Canal Flat 273.
Canfield 218.
Canmore 258.
Canning 74.
Canoe Lake 204.
Canseau, i3trait of 64. 61.
62.
Canso 64.
— , Strait of 64. 61. 62.
Canterbury 26. 39.
Cantyre, Mull of 5.
Cape Anguille Range 103.
— Argos 64.
— Breton Island 61. 62.
— Clear Island 6.
Cove 91.
— Dauphin 67.
Capelton 20.
Cap Enfum^ 69.
Cape Porcupine 61.
— Sable Island 81.
— Vincent 227;
Capilano Canon 286.
— River 286.
Caplin 92. 90.
Cap Rouge 144. 167.
— St. Ignace 95.
Caraquet 89.
Carberry 251. 262.
Carbonear 120.
Cardigan (N.B.) 89.
— (P.E.I.) 101.
— , the 101.
Cardston 266.
Cardwell Junction 211.
222.
Cariboo District 282.
Caribou (Ala.) 302.
— (Me.) 40.
Carievale 262.
Carillon 186. 139. etc.
Carleton ^aie des Cha-
leurs) 90. 92.
— (St. John) 32. 23. 28.
— Junction 231. 182. 186.
tn^iiPlace 231.
312
INDEX.
CarUtadt 242.
Carmack 303.
Camsrron, Mt. 2T7.
Camsore Point 6.
Carp 203.
Carter's 34.
Cartier 234.
Cascade, the 268. 261.
— City 288.
— Ht. 262. 268. 259. etc.
— Mts. 282.
Cascades, the 280. 16.
Cascapedia Bay 92.
— River 92.
Casco Bay 24.
Cascumpec Bay 101.
Case Ht. 304.
Case's 35..
Casselman 176.
Cassidy 238.
CastaUa 45.
CasUe Mt. 268.
* Station 268.
Castor, the 279.
Catalina 116. 117. 120.
Catalone 69.
Cataract Stream 271.
Cataraqui, the 183. 184.
Cathedral, the 272.
Catherine's Pond 62.
Catskills 13.
Cattegat 9.
Caugfhnawaga47. 138. 230.
Causapscal 92.
Cayley 257.
Cayuga, the 221.
Cecebe, Lake 200.
Cedar Hall 93.
— Rapid 230. 16.
Cedars 34.
Cemetery Station 100.
Central Ontario Junction
187.
Centre Harbor 18.
Chain Lakes 68.
Chaleur, Bay 90. 89.
Chalk River 232.
Chamberlain 253.
Chambly 19. 139.
— Basin 19.
— Canton 19.
Chambord Junction 164.
Chamcook Ht. 43.
Champlain 140. 144.
— , Lake 13. 14. etc.
ChanceUor, Mt. 272.
— Peak 273.
Channel 115.
— Islands 8.
Chantler's 212.
Chapel Platform 62.
Chaplean 234.
Chaplin 254.
Chaplin Lakes 254.
Charlemagne 142.
Charles, the 17.
Charlesbourg 161.
Charlo 89.
Charlotte 227. 226.
Charlottetown 98. 64. 86.
etc.
Chat, Cape 4.
Ch&teau 119.
Chateauguay 16.
Chftteau Richer 160.
Chater 251. 252.
Chatham (N. B.) 83.
- (Ont) 207. 213.
- Junction 88. 89.
- Sound 296.
Chats, Lac des 203.
Chatsworth 222.
Chaudi^re 141. 96. 140.
-, the 21. 141. 144.
^ Falls (Ottawa) 180. 184.
- Falls (P. Q.) 141.
Cheam Peak 288.
Chebogue Point 82.
Chebucto Head 24. 81.
Chedabucto Bay 64. 61.
Chelsea 182.
Chemainus 292.
Chemong Lake 188.
- Park 188.
Chena 304.
Cheops, Caves of 277.
-, Ht. 277. 274.
Chepewyan 264. 266.
Cherbourg 6. 7. 8.
Chester (N. B.) 46.
- (N. 8.) 78. 81.
Chesterville 186.
Cheticamp 63. 60.
Chichagoff Island 306.
Chicoutimi 171. 164. 166.
— , the 172. 166.
Chieftain, the 270.
Chignecto Peninsula 86.
Childwold 16.
Chilkat 301.
- Inlet 301.
ChUkoot Inlet 301.
Chilliwack 284.
Chimney Island 229.
- Tickle 119.
Chim-sy-an Pen. 296.
China Creek 288.
Ciiipman 35. 48.
Chippawa 221. 215.
Christiania 9.
Christiansand 9.
Christina, Lake 288.
Churchbridge 251.
Ciboux Islands 67.
Cisco 283.
Clachnacudainn 279. 280.
Clairs 95.
Clandeboye 250.
ClanwiUiam 280.
Clare, District of 82.
Clarence Greek 176.
— Strait 298.
Clarenceville 16.
Clarenville 120. 121.
Clarkboro 263.
Clark's Crossing 253.
— Harbour 81.
Clarksbn's 209.
Clarksrille 83.
Clayton (N. T.) 184.
— (Ont.) 228. 226.
Clear Lake 187.
Clearwater 16.
Clementsport 76.
Cleveland 214.
Cleveland's 202.
Clifton (Ala.) 301.
— (N. S^ 83.
Clinton 082.
Clouds, Lakes in the 269.
Cloutiers Platform 95.
Clyde, the (N. 8.) 81.
— , — (Scotland) 5.
Coachman^s Cove 116.
Coal Branch 88.
Coast Range 282. 295.
xl. 3Cli.
Coaticooke 26.
Cobalt 238.
Cobeqnid Bay 83. 84.
— Hills 85. 74.
Coboconk 188. 187.
Cobourg 189. 226.
Cochrane 257.
(Jodroy Rivers 116. 123.
Coe Hill 189.
Coffin Island 81.
Colborne 189.
Coldbrook 48.
Coldwell 236.
Coleraine 21.
Coleridge 255.
College Bridge 87.
— Lake 61.
Collie, Ht. 273. 272.
Collingwood 198. 2U. 223.
Columbia, Mt. 270.
— , the 273. xli. etc.
— Lake 273.
— Range 280.
Colville Harbour 102.
Comber 212.
Ck)me-by-Chance 121.
Commerell, Gape 2Sb.
(Jommissaires, Lac des
164.
Commissioners Lake 163.
Como 185. 174.
Gomox 29}oogIe
INDEX.
313
Conception Bay 119. 104.
la etc.
Conche 116.
Ooncord 17.
Connecticat Valley 16.
Oonnors 95.
Consolation VaUey 270.
Constable 16.
Contreccear 143.
Conway 19.
— Junction 19.
Cookshire Junction 20.
46. 26.
Copenhagen 9.
Copper Mt. 268.
Coqnltlan lUi.
Goroeau, Cap 167.
Cordova Bay 291.
Cormorant Island 295.
Cornwall 229. 182. 188.
ComwalliSf the 74.
— Valley 74. 73.
Coteau Junction 176. 188.
— Landing 229.
— Rapid 280. 16.
Coachiching, Lake 199.
Coudres, Isle aux 167.
Cougar Brook 277.
— Mt. 279.
Coulonge (Lake and Fort)
232.
County Line 79.
Courtenay Bay 33.
Coutts 266.
Cowan 263.
Cow Bay 59. 64.
Cowichan 292.
— Lake 292.
Cowley 267.
Crabbs 123.
Craigellachie 280.
Craigie Lea 206.
Craigmore 62.
Craik 253.
Cranberry Lakes 183.
— Point 67.
Cranbrook 267.
Crandall 252.
Crane Island 167.
— Lake 206.
(Sask.) 265.
Crapaud 100.
Crawford House 20.
— Notch 2a
Credit River 205.
Greignish 62.
Cressy 226.
Creston 267.
Crillon, Mt. 304.
Crofton 292.
Crookston 249.
Cross Creek 89.
— Island 81.
Cross Point 91.
— Sound 305.
Crowfoot 255.
Crown, the 286.
Crow*8 Nest 267.
Lake 267.
— Mt. 267.
Pass 267.
Crysler 182.
Cudahy 301.
Cjunberland 184.
-^aain 86. 87.
Curling 122. 119.
Current Island 119.
Curtis 262.
Cuxhaven 7.
Cypress HUls 256.
Dablon 164.
Dalhousie 90.
— Mills 186.
— Mt. 90.
Danville 141.
— Junction 25.
Dark Harbor 46.
Dartmouth 58. 52. 84.
-, the 91.
Dauphin 263.
-, Lake 263.
Davenport 198.
Davidson Glacier 301.
David Vanwart's 35.
Dawson 308.
-, Mt. 278.
Debec Junction 25.
Debert 84.
Deep Cove 45.
Deer Island 22. 42.
— Lake 122.
DelU 251.
Deltaform Mt. 270. 268.
Dennis, Mt. 272,
Denny laland 295.
Dennysville 45.
Denver Glacier 301.
Denys River 63. 66.
Departure Bay 292. 294.
Depot Harbour 204.
Derby Junction 88.
Des Allumettes, Isle 232.
Desbarats 233.
— Islands 233.
Descente desFemmes 171.
Des Chaleurs, Bale 90. 92.
Deschambault 140. 144.
Desch^nes, Lake 182.
Deseronto 189.
Despair, Cape 90.
Detour Passage 224.
Detroit (Mich.) 206. etc.
— (Minn.) 249.
— River 2iD6. 212. 214. etc.
Deutschman's Caves 277.
Deux Rivi^es 282.
Devil Island 24.
Deville, Mt sm Mt. 8el-
wyn.
Devil's Head 48.
— Thumb (Agnes Lake)
269.
(Ala.) 299.
Devils Creek 261.
— Gap 262.
— Head 262.
— Lake 261.
Dewey, Mt. 301.
Dexter 24.
Diamond, Cape 144.
Didsbury 257;
Digby 76. 82.
— Gut 76.
— Neck 82.
Dildo Island 116.
Dingle 58.
Discovery Passage 294.
Dixon Entrance 296.
Doak 38.
Doaktown 89.
Dog Lake 234.
Doherty 237.
Dome, the 279.
Dominion 69.
Don, the 191.
Donald 274. 279.
Donegal 3.
Donkin, Mt. 278. 277.
Dorchester 87.
Dorsaint 95.
Dorset 200.
Dorval 186. 127.
— Pass 166.
D'OrviUe'a Head 43.
Doucet^s Island 43.
— Landing 140. 144.
Douglas (N. B.) 39.
— (Out.) 204.
— Island 300.
Douglass 287.
Douglastown 91.
Dover (England) 7. 8.
— (Me.j 24.
Down 2.
Doyle's 123.
Drumbo 207.
Drummond Island 224.
Drummondville 140. 19.
Dryden 242.
Drynoch 282.
Duchesnay, Mi 272.
Duck Lake 253.
— River 263.
Ducks 281.
Dudswell Junction 20. 21.
26.
Dufferin Hill 281.^1^
Duke Island 298.glC
314
INDEX.
Daluth 234. 236.
Duncan's 292.
Dundslk 222.
DondM 2U. 210.
— Islands 296.
Dundurn 203.
Dunmore Junction 266.
266.
Dunsinane 48.
Dnrsey Island 6.
Dntton 212.
Dwight 200.
Dyea301.
Dyer's 42.
Dysart 188.
Eagle 242.
— City 804.
— Glacier 301.
— Pass 280.
— Peak 279.
— River 280.
East, Gape 171.
— Angus 21.
— Chester 78.
Eastern Townships 47.
Eastman's Springs 176.
Eastport 22. 43.
East Eiver 78.
, the 60. 59.
— Selkirk 243. 260.
— Templeton 184.
Eboulement, Mt. 167.
Eddy Point 64.
Bddystone Lighthouse 7.
Edgecnmbe. Ht. 305.
Edgington 204.
Edith, Mt. 262.
Edmonton 264. 261. 257.
Edmundston 95. 40. 41.
Edwards 182.
Eel River 90.
, the 25.
Eganville 204. 187. 231.
Egg Island 4.
Eglise Ste. Anne 160.
Egmont, Cape 98.
Eholt Junction 288.
Ekoba 233.
Elbe, the 7.
Elbow, the 256.
Eldon 268.
Elephantus, Mt. 18.
Elgin 48.
Eli 262.
Elkhom 262.
Elko 267.
— River 267.
Ellershouse 71.
Elliot, the 98. 100.
Elora 222.
Embrun 182.
Emerald Junction 100.
Emerald Lake 271.
Emerson 249.
Emo 244.
Encampment Island 224.
Enderby 280.
Enfield 84.
English 242.
— Channel 8.
Enterprise 289.
Equinox Mt. 14.
Erie 2U.
, Lake 214. 206. zxxvii.
Escasoni 66.
Esquimalt 289. 291. 292.
Essex Centre 212.
— Junction 15.
Esterhazy 252.
Estevan 252. 264.
Etchemin Valley 21.
Eternity, Cape 170.
Ethelbert 263.
Etolin Island 299.
Eugenia Falls 222.
Evandale 35.
Evangeline District 73.
Evangton 62.
Everett 284.
Exploits 116. 121.
— , the 103. 121. 116.
Exshaw 257.
Fabyan's 20. 18.
Fairbanks 301. 304.
Fairholme Mts. 257. 261.
Fairview, Mt. 270. 269.
FairviUe 33.
Fairweather, Mt. 804.
Range 804.
Fairy Lake 200.
— River 89.
Falls View 213.
False Gulch 103.
Fanshawe, Cape 300.
Fargo CN. D.) 249.
— (Ont.) 212.
Farnham 19. 47.
Farran's Point 188.
Farrellton 182.
Fastnet Rock 6.
Father Point 4. 93.
Fay, Mt. 270.
Fenelon Falls 188. 187,
Fenton 263.
Fermeuse 113.
Femie 267.
Ferrona 59.
Ferryland 113. 114.
Fiddle Glacier 806.
Field 271. 268.
— , Mt. 272. 271.
Fife 288.
Fifty Mile River 302.
FUlmore 253.
Finch 186. 182.
Finlayson Channel 296.
Finmark 242.
Fire Island 6.
Fish Creek 253.
Fishel 8 133.
Fishers 268.
Fishkill 13.
Fish River 277.
Fitchburg 17.
Fitshugh Sound 295.
Five Finger Rapids 303.
— Island Lake 7l.
— Islands 86. 74.
Flagg's Cove 45.
Fleming 252.
Flesherton 232.
FlorenceviUe 40.
Flower Cove 119.
Flushine 8.
Fogo 116.
Folleigh Lake 85.
— Valley 85.
Forbes, Mt. 270.
Forget 253.
Forres 266.
Forrest 262.
Fort Beaus^jour 86.
— Clarence 66. 68.
— Coulonge 182. 232.
Forteau 119.
Fort Edward 13.
— Ellice 252.
— Fairfield 40.
— Frances 2U. 243.
— Garry 250.
— Good Hope 265.
— Kent (Me.) 46.
(N. B.) 96.
— Lawrence 86.
Station 86.
— McPherson 264. 266.
— Needham 58.
— Niagara 206.
— Norman 265.
— Providence 266.
— Qu'AppeUe 262.
— Resolution 266.
— Rupert 296.
— Saskatchewan 264.
— Selkirk 303.
— Simpson 265.
— Smith 264.
— Spion Kop 56.
— Steele 267: 273.
Ticonderoga 13.
— Timiskaming 240.
— Tongas 298.
Fortune 114.
— Bay 104. 114. 134.
Fort William 236. 326. etc.
— Wrigley 266.
Forty Mile Creek 262.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
INDEX.
315
Fort Yukon 304.
Foster 47. 19.
Fourchu, Gape 80. 82.
Fox, Cape 295.
— , Mt. 278.
— Point 200.
Foyle, Lough 3.
Frances, Lake 250.
Francis 253.
Franconia Notch (White
Hts.) 18.
Franey's Chimney 69.
Frank 267.
Franklin District 253.
Fraser 306.
— , the 282. 281. xl. etc.
— Canon 282.
Fraser's Mt. 60.
Frasenrille 94.
Frazer Reach 296.
Frederick Sound 300.
Fredericton 36.25. 29. etc.
— Junction 25. 38.
French River (N. S.) 60.
(Ont.) 233.
— Shore (Kfd.) 107. 115.
116. 124.
— Vale 63.
Frenchville 95.
Friar^s Head 44.
Frisian Islands 8.
Fryeburg 26.
Fulton Chain 16.
— Lakes 16.
Fundy, Bay of 76. 23. 28,
33.
Oaharus 71.
— Bay 70.
Gaff Topsail 122.
Oagetown 85.
Galetta 203.
Gallops or Galoups Ra-
pids 229.
Gait 206. 205.
Gamho 121.
— , Lake 121.
Gananoque 228. 188.
Gander, the iQ3. 121.
— Lake 121. 104.
Gannet Rock 45.
Gannon Narrows 187.
Gap Station 257.
Gardner Canal 296.
Garland 263.
Gameau Junction 140.
142.
Garthhy 21.
Gasp^, or Gasp^ Basin 91.
-Bay 91.
— , Cape 91.
— , Peninsula of 90. 4.
Gaspereau, the 73.
Gaspereau Lake 73.
— Valley 73.
Gastineau Channel 800.
Gatineau, 175.
— , the 184. 175. 182.
Geikie Glacier 277.
Gelert 188.
Genoa 9.
George,_Lake fN. B.) 39
-, - (N. Y.]
— , — (St. Mary's River)
224.
George's Liland 56. 24. 81,
— River 63.
Georgetown (Ont.) 205.
2ia
— (P.E.L) 101. 60. 102.
Georgeville 18.
Georgia, Gulf of 289. 294.
292.
Georgian Bay 22a 198.
224.
Gerrard 289.
Ghost River 262.
GianVs Causeway 3.
Gibraltar 9.
Gibson 38. 36. 89. etc.
Gilbert Plains Junction
263.
Gilbert's Island 35.
Gilfrin 288.
Gillies Limit 238.
Gilmore 804.
Giroux 244.
Girvin 253.
Glace Bay 69.
Glacier 302.
— Bay 304.
— Crest 278.
— House 274. 268.
Gladstone 261. 263.
Glasgow (Ont.) 203.
— (Scotl.) 6. 8.
Glasier 38.
Glasier's 36.
Gleichen 265.
Glencoe 63.
Glendyer 63.
Glengarry 69.
Glenorchy 244.
Glen Robertson 176. 174.
-- Station 20.
— Sutton 18.
Glenwood (Minn.) 249.
— (Kfd.) 121.
Gloucester 19. 24.
— Junction 89.
Goat Island 76.
— Range 262.
— River 267.
Goderich 205.
Gold Creek 300.
Golden 273.
Golden Gate 302.
— Lake Sta. 204.
— Streams 263.
Gold Range 280. xli.
Goldstream 292.
Goletas Channel 295.
Golf Links 14.
Goodsir, Mt. 273.
Goodwin Sands 7.
Goose Island 167.
Gordon, Mt. 272.
Gore Bay 223.
Gorham 25.
Goshen 203.
Goufifre, the 167.
Grafton (N. B.) 40.
— (N. D.) 249.
Graham Island 296.
— Reach 296.
Grand Anse (N. B.) 89.
— Bank (Nfd.) 114.
(N. S.) 6.
— Bay 34.
^ Discharge 164. 165.
Grandes Isles, Lac desl63.
— Piles 140.
Grand Falls (Lab.) 118.
(N. B.) 40.
(Nipisiguit) 89.
(St. John) 41.
— Forks (B. C.) 28
(N. D.) 249.
— Grdve 91.
— Harbor 46.
— Island 221. 216.
— Isle 14.
— Lake (N. B.) 35. 48.
(Nfd.) 122. 104.
Station 84.
— Manan 45. 22. 43.
— Manitoulin 224. 223.
233.
— M6re 142.
— M^tis 98.
— Narrows (Cape Breton)
63. 65.
— Pr6 73.
— River (Labrador) 118.
(N. B.) 41.
(Ont.) 222.
(or Ottawa) 184.
(P. Q.) 90.
Grandview 263.
Granite Notch 199.
Granville Ferry 77.
Grassie's 212.
Grates Point 116.
Gratiot Avenue 206.
Gravel 236.
Gravenhurst 199.
Gravina Island 298.
Great Banks (Nfd.) 113.
104. 6. 9.
3ie
INDEX.
Great Garibon Island 117.
— DiTide, the 270.
— Fall! 266.
— JerTOis 114.
— Lakes, the zxzrii.
— Herasheen 114.
— St Lawrence 114.
~ Slave Lake 264. 260.
Biver 264.
Gxeen, Mt. 278.
Greenfield 176.
Green Harbour 79. 81.
— Island 4.
— Hts. 15. 14.
— River 41.
Greenspond 116.
Greenville 46.
Greenwich 16.
Greenwood 288.
Grenfell 252.
GrenviUe 142. 175. 185.
— Bay 100.
— Channel 296.
Gretna 249.
Gribaane, Cap 167.
Gribbeirs Island 296.
Griffin Lake 280.
Griguet 116.
Grimross Canal 85.
— Neck 35.
Grimsby 211.
— Park 211.
Grindstone Island 228.
Grizzly, Mt. 277.
Grondines 144.
Grosse Isle (Man.) 250.
(P.Q.)167.
Gros Visons, Lac 163.
Grotto Mt. 257.
Grouse Mt. 236.
Grues, Isle anx 167.
Guelph 205. 206. 207.
— Junction 206.
Gull Lake 255.
Gunflint 236. 244.
Gunter Junction 252.
Gunter's 36.
Gunton 250.
Guysboro 61. 69.
Habel, Mt. 273. 272.
Hagar 233.
Hagersville 213.
Hague 263.
Ha Ha Bay 171.
Haileybury 239.
Halbrite 264.
Halcyon Hot Springs 287.
— Peak 287.
Haldimand Ho. 159.
Haliburton 188.
Halifax 60.
[, Academy of Music 66.
Halifax:
Admiralty House 68.
Amusements 60.
Armoury 67.
Baptist Ghnrch 66.
Barracks 53. 64.
Barrington Street 51.
65.
Bellevue House 65.
Bishop^s Chapel 57.
Blind School 57.
Brigade Office 65.
Cabs 60.
Ch. of Eng. InsUt. 55,
Citadel 63.
City Club 55.
— Hall 66.
Clubs 60.
Commerce 62.
Common, the 57.
•Consuls 60.
County Academy 63.
Court House 55.
Custom House 54.
Dalhousie Coll. 57.
55.
Deaf and DumbAsylum
68.
Dockyard 56.
Dominion Building 64.
Drill Hall 57.
Dry Dock 66.
Dutch Church, Old 58.
Engineers* Yard 64.
Environs 63.
Exhibition Buildings
67.
Fortifications 53. 61. 58.
67.
Freshwater 68.
Gaol 66.
Garrison Chapel
Glebe House o6.
Government Ho. 54. 55.
Granville Street 56.
Green Market 66.
Halifax Club 54.
Harbour 56. 24.
High School 53.
History 51.
Hollis Street 51. 54.
Holy Cross Cemetery
Hospital Yard 56.
Hotels 50.
Howe Statue 54.
Industry 62.
Information Bureau 61.
Lockman Street 55.
Long Wharf 56.
Lumber Yard 54.
Marine Hospital 56.
Masonic Hall 56.
Halifax;
Medical CoUege 67.
Meth. Churches 67. 58.
Military Hospital 68.
Narrows, the 66.
Ordnance Yard 66.
Parliament Building 54.
Penitentiary 67.
Point Pleasant Park 56.
Poor Asylum 57.
Post Office 61. 64.
Presbyterian College64.
Provincial Museum 54.
Public Gardens 67. 65.
Railway Stations 60.
55. 66.
Restaurants 60.
Round Church 58.
Sackville Street 53.
Sacred Heart Convent
57.
St. George's 58.
— John^s 53.
— Mary's Cathedral 55.
Hall 65.
— Matthew's 66.
— Patrick's 68.
— Paul's 56.
Churchyard 65.
— Stephen's 57.
S. A. Memorial 64.
Spring Garden Road 56.
57.
Steamers 60.
Tramways 60.
Uni versalist Church 68.
Victoria Hospital 57.
Wanderers' Club 67.
Water Street 55.
Wellington Barracks
58.
Y. M. C. Association 55
Hairs Bridge 187.
— Harbour 74.
Hambui^ 7.
Hamil's Point 202.
Hamilton209. 198.214. etc
— Inlet 118.
Hamiota 252.
Hammond (B. 0.) 284.
— (near Ottawa) 176.
Hampstead 86.
Hampton (N. B.) 48.
— (N. H.) 19.
— (P.E.I.) 100.
— Beach 19.
Hanlan 260.
Hanna Glacier 306.
Hantsport 72.
Harbour au Bouche 61.
— Breton 114.
— Grace 12Q. 107. ,
Harcourt 88.,00QIC
INDEX.
317
Hare Island 168.
Harlaka Junction 31. 96.
Harlem, the 11. 12. etc.
Haro, Canal de 289. 294.
Harrisburg 214. 205. 207.
Harrison Hot Springs 283.
— Lake 288.
— MiUs 283.
— River 283.
Harron 288.
Harry^s Brook 123.
Hartford 16.
Hartland 40.
Harvey (N.B.) 2B.
— (N.S.) 48.
Harwood 189.
Hastings 284.
Hat Creek 281.
Havelock (N.S.) 48.
— (Ont.) 187.
Havre 8.
Hawk 242.
Hawke Bay 119.
Hawkesbury (N.S.) 62.
61. 64.
— (Ont.) 174. 142. etc.
Hawthorne 182.
Head Harbor 44.
Heart's Content 120. 116.
Heath Point 3.
Heatherton 61.
H^bertville 166.
Hector 270. 271. 269.
-, Mt. 270. 268.
— Lake 270.
— Pass 271. 268.
Hedleyville 159.
Helena 182.
Heligoland 7.
Hellgate Rapid 283.
Henryville 141.
Herkimer 16. i
Hermitage, the 162.
— Cove 111.
Hermit Range 275.
Heron Bay 284.
Herring Cove 81.
Hiawatha Camp 223.
Highgate Springs 16.
High Point 171.
— River 257.
HilUard 264.
Hillsboro 48. 87.
Hillsborough, the 98. 100.
101.
— Bay 97. 100.
Hochelaga 128. 138. etc.
Hogsback 183.
Holdsworth, Ht. 295.
Hole-in-tho-WaU Kt. 268.
Holkham Bay 300.
Holland Landing 198.
— River 198.
Hollow Lake 200.
Holyoke 15.
Holyrood 120.
Hootalinqna River 303.
Hope 283.
Hopedale (Labrador) 117.
Hopefleld 101.
Hope Peaks 283.
Hopewell 59.
— Cape 87. 48.
Rocks 48.
— Hill 48.
Horse Fly 283.
Horseshoe Glacier 269.
Horton Landing 73.
Hot. Champlain Stat. 18.
Hot Springs (Banflf) 360.
Hoolton 35.
Howards 123.
Howe Island 228.
Howse Pass 271.
Hnbbards 78.
Haberdeau 175.
Hudson (N.Y.) 13.
— (Ont.) 185. 174.
-, the 11. 13. 16.
Hudson's Hope 264.
HuU 180. 175. 182.
Httmber, the (Nfd.. 115.
103. 122. '
-, - (Ont.) 191. 198.
Humboldt 263.
Hungabee, the 370.
Hunter Mt. 373.
— River 100.
Hunter's Island 295.
Huntingdon 16.
Huntsville 200.
— Lakes 200.
Hurd, Cape 234.
Huron, Lake 223. 205.
xxxvii.
IberviUe 16. 47. 141.
Iceboro 24.
Icy Strait 904. 305.
Ignace 343.
lUecillewaet 279.
— , the 279. 274.
— Canon 280.
— Glacier 275. 376.
Incomappleux 277.
Indian Beach 45.
— Gardens, the 79.
— Head 252.
— Lorette 162. 161.
— River (Al.) 803.
(Ont.) 201. 203.
Indiantown (Northum-
berland, N.B.) 88.
— (St. John, N.B.) 34.
Inguiiche 69.
Ingersoll 213.
Inelismaldie. Ht. 262.
369. 361. '
Ingolf 243.
Ingonlsh 69.
Ingomachoiz Bay 119.
Insulated Peak 1^.
Invermay 363.
Inverness 63.
lona 63.
Ironbound Island 81.
Isherwood 344.
Island Lake 267.
— Pond 26.
Isle La Motte 15.
— Madame 66.
— Royale 226.
— Verte 94.
Ivanhoe 187. 189.
Jack Fish 286.
Jackson 20.
Jackson's Point 190.
Jacques Cartier River 14(X
144. 163.
Jacquet River 89.
JafiE^y 367.
Jahdebusen 8.
James Bay 166. etc.
Junction 304.
Janvrin 64.
Jay Peak 18.
Jeanotte, the 163.
Jebogue Point 82.
Jemseg River 35.
Jervis Inlet 294.
Jesus Island 186.
Jeune Lorette 162. 161.
Jocko 237.
Joggins 85.
— Shore 85.
John Allen's 36.
Johnson 238.
— , Mt. 19. 136.
Johnstone Strait 295.
JohnviUe 40.
Joliette 142. 139.
Jones Falls 183.
Jonqui6re 166.
Jordan 211.
— Pass 280.
Joseph, Lake 303. 201.
JubUee Mt. 302.
Juddhaven 202.
Judique 62.
Juneau 900.
Kabequashesing, Lake
234.
Kakabeka Falls 242. 236.
Eaministikwia 343.
~, the 226. 236. 242.
Eamloops 281.
[-L.k.281. ^l^
318
Eamooraska 95. 168.
— Idands 168. 95.
Eamsack 263.
Eananaakis 267.
— Fall* 267.
Earsdale 77.
Eashaboiwe 244.
Kaslo 288.
Katahdin, Mt 46.
Eatohewanooka, Lake
187.
Katrine 200.
Eawartba Lakes 187.
Eazubazua 182.
Kearney 204.
Kearsarge, Hi. 20.
Keefers 2Sd.
Keene 17.
Keewatin (District) 253.
xxri. zxx.
— (Ont.) 243.
Keith 257.
Kelligrews 120.
Kelowna 280.
Kemnay 252.
Kempenfeldt Bay 198.
KemptriUe Junction 182
Kenaston 253.
Kenimon River 118.
Kennebec, the 24. 46.
Kennebecasis, the 33. 34.
48.
— Bay 33. 84. 48.
— Island 34.
Kennebnnk 24.
Kennedy Island 296.
Kenneteook 83.
— River 83.
Kenogami, Lake 172. 166.
Kenora 243. 2U.
Kensington 100.
Kent Junction 88.
KentviUe 74.
Keppoch 100.
Keswick 89.
Ketchikan 298. 298.
Kettle River 288.
Kicking Horse Pass 271.
268.
River 271.
Killaloe204.
KUlamey 223.
KilUsnoo 300.
Kilmarnock 183.
Kilworthy 199.
Kimball's Lake 200.
Kimberly 267.
Kinbum 203.
Kincardine 206.
Kineo, Ht. 46.
King 198.
— , Mt 272.
INDEX.
Kingsclear 39. 38.
King's Cove 116.
Kingsport 71. 86.
Kingston227. 184. 187. etc
— Creek 34.
Junction 189.
KingsviUe 207.
Kipawa 232.
Kipp267.
KirkeUa 252.
Kirkfield 190.
Kirk's Ferry 182.
Kiskisink 163.
Kitchener 267.
— Glacier 289.
Kiwetinok Peak 273.
Klondike Mining Region
808. 299.
— River 303.
Kokanee Mt. 289.
Komoka 207.
Kootenay, the 288. 267.
zli. etc.
— Lake 288.
— Landing 268. 287. 288.
— Rapids 288.
Kronan 263.
Kruzoff Island 805.
Rtaadn, Mt 46.
Kupreanofif Island 900.
Kaskokvrim 306.
L'Ange Oardien 160.
L'Anse k Giles 95.
Labarge, Lake 90S.
LabeUe 175.
Labrador 117. 3. 104.
186.
Laeadie 14. 17.
Lac k la Tortue 140.
— au Sable 142.
— des Arcs 267.
Lachevroti&re 110.
Lachine 230. 138.
etc.
— Rapids 230. 16. 48. etc.
Lachute 176. 142.
La Cloche Mts. 223.
Lady Evelyn Lake S
Ladysmith 292.
L*Bpiphanie 142.
Laggan 268. 269.
La Hache, Lac 282.
— Hague, Cape 8.
— Have, Cape 81.
Island 79.
River 79. 81.
Lairet. the 161.
Lake Clear 16.
— Edward 163.
Lakefleld 187.
Lake Frances 250.
Station 260.
Lake Placid 16.
Lakeport 18.
Lake Verde 101.
— View 16.
Lamaline 114.
La Manche 121.
Lama Passage 295.
Lancaster 188.
Lance au Loup 119.
Langevin 265.
La Niche 171.
Lanoraie 113.
Lansdowne (Ont.) 188.
— (Tukon) 302.
La Perouse Mt 804.
— Poile 116.
Laprairie 188.
Larchwood 234.
Lardo 289.
Laskie's Landing 31.
Latchford 238.
La Tuque 163.
Laurentian orLaurentide
Mts. 139. 95. 114. etc.
Laurentides 163.
— National Park 163.
Laurier 140.
Lavaltrie 143.
Lavigne 174.
Lawreneetown 76.
Leamington 207. 212.
Leanchoil 273.
Leaside Junction 188.
Le Conte Glacier 299.
Ledge, the 13.
Ledue 257.
Lefroy 198.
-, Mt 269.
— Glacier 269.
Leitche's Creek 63.
Lenore 252.
Lennox Passage 61.
LennozviUe 17. 20. 26.
Lenox 206.
Leonard 176.
Lepreaux 42.
Les Eboulements 167.
— Ecoreuils 144.
Lesqueti Island 291.
J
Lethbridge 266.
L^vis 167. 96. HI.
. etc.
Lewes, the 802.
Lewis Lake 802.
Lewisporte 121.
Lewiston 209.
Liard, the 265. xl.
Libby's Mills 20.
Liivre, the 176. 184.
LUlooet 281. 382.
LUy Lake 33.
Limoilou Junction 159.
161.
Undsay 188.
" Digitized by CjOOQIC
Lo
Lo
Lo
I'Oi
Lou
INDEX.
319
Linko 242.
Lions, the 286.
Lipton 262.
L'Islet 95.
— au Massacre 94.
Little Bay 116.
— Current 223.
— Dallas 288. 289.
— Falls 16.
— Hope Island 81.
— H^tis 98.
— River 123.
— Salmon, the 303.
— Slave Lake 264.
— Village 160.
Litnya, Mt. 801.
Liverpool (Eng.)2. etc.
— (N.8.) 79. 81.
Livingstone Bange 267.
257.
Lloydminster 263.
Loohaber 175.
Lockeport 79. 81.
Lockport 21.
Locust Hill 188.
Logan, Mt. 306.
Log Cabin 302.
Logie Bay 112.
Loggieville 89.
Lomond, Loch 33.
London 207. 206. 213.
Londonderry (Ire.) 3.
— (N.S.) 84.
Long Branch 209. 191.
Longford 199.
Long Island (near Digby)
'- (near Wolfville)
73.
(St. John Eiv.) 3i
Sound 15.
— Lake 84.
— Bange 116. 103.
— Beach 34.
— Sault Rapids (Ottawa
Biver) 185.
(St. Lawrence)
229.
Longue Pointe 143.
Longueuil 188. 148.
Loon Lake 16.
Loop, the (C. P. B.) 279.
Lorette (Man.) 244.
— (P. Q.) 140.
— Falls 162.
L'Orignal 185.
Loring 298.
Lome Park 209.
Lorneville Junction 190.
188.
Lotbini^re 144.
Louiabourg 69. 70. 62.
Louise, Lake 269.
Louiseville 139. 143.
Lowell 17.
Lower French Village 39
— Montague 101.
Lubec 22.
Lucan Grossing 205.
Ludlow 89.
Lulu Island 287.
Lumsden 253.
Lunenburg (N. S.) 78. 81
— (Vt.) 20.
LyeU, Mt. 270.
Lyn 188.
Lynn 19. 24.
— Canal 301.
Lyster 140. 141.
Lytton 282. 281.
, the 8.
Mabou 63.
— Mouth 60.
McAdam Junction 25. 43.
McAlpine*8 36.
McArthur, Lake 271.
Maecan 8d.
McCreary Junction 263.
Macdonald, Mt. 278. 274.
Macdowall 253.
Mace^s Bay 42.
MacGregor 251.
McKay Reach 296.
Mackay Mt. 236.
MacEenzie (District) 253.
Mackenzie (Ont.) 235.
— , Mt. 279.
-, the 264. 265. 266.
Mackinac 224. 206. 223.
McKinley, Mt 306.
McLean 262.
Madeod 267. 267.
Macnab^s Island 56. 21
59. etc.
McNutt's Creek 83.
— Island 81.
Macoun 254.
Madawaska 204.
— , the 34. 95.
Madoc 189.
Magaguadavic 26.
— , the 42.
Maganetawan 200.
Magdalen, Cape 4.
-Islands 102. 60. 101.
River 4.
Magog 18. 47.
-, the 47.
— Rapids 47.
Magrath 266.
Mahone 78. 77.
— Bay 78. 81.
Maillard, Cap 167.
MaiUand 83. 84.
Maizerets 158. 159.
Makaroff 263.
Makinak 263.
Makoping, Lake 234.
Malacca Passage 296.
Malagawatch Harbour 65.
Malbaie 168.
Mai Bay 91.
Malcolm Island 295.
Malfait, Lake 93.
Malin Head 3.
Malone 16.
Malpeque 100.
Manchester (K. H.) 17.
— (Vt.) 14.
Manhattan Island 11.
Manilla 190. 188.
Manitoba 246. 245. 243.
xxvi.
-, Lake 251. 250.
Ilanitowaning 223.
Maniwaki 182.
Man-of-War Head 44.
Mansonville 18.
Manuels 120.
Manvers 188.
Maple Creek 255.
— Lake 204. 202. 203.
Maquam 18.
Mara Lake 280.
Marble Mt. 65. 63.
Marbleton 21.
Marchand 244.
Margaree 66. 60.
Margaretsville 75.
Maria 90. 92.
Marieville 19.
Marion Lake 276.
Markdale 222.
Markham 190.
Markland 80.
Marquette 251.
Mars Hill 40.
Marshy Hope 61.
Mary Lake 200.
MarysviUe 38. 89.
Maskinong^ 139.
Massachusetts Bay 17.
Massawippi 20.
— Lake 21.
Massive, Mt. 268. 262.
Matane 4.
Matapedia 91.
— , the 90. 93. 91.
— , Lake 93.
Mattawa 232.
Mattawamkeag 46.
— River 25.
Mattawan, the 242.
Mattawin 244.
Maugerville 36.
— Island 35.
320
INDEX.
Mayne Island 291.
Meadowside 283.
Heaford 198.
MechanicTille 13.
Medicine Hat 255.
Hednctic Rapids 89.
Medoxnekeag, the 40.
Medway 79.
Hegantic 46. 21.
— , Lake 46.
Mekattina, Cape 3.
Melfort 263.
Melita 252.
Melville 101.
— Island 59.
— Junction 222.
. Memphremagog, Lake 18.
20. 139.
Memramcook 87.
Meredith 18.
Merigomish 61.
MerrickTille 183. 186.
Merrimac, the 18.
Merritton 211.
Mersey, the (Eng.) 2. 5.
— , — (N.S.) 81.
Metabetchouan, the 164.
166.
Metapedia see Matapedia.
Metapediac 93.
Metchosin 291.
Meteghan 82.
M^tis Lakes 98.
— Rivers. 93.
Metlakatla 298.
Michel 267.
— Creek 267.
Michipicoten 226.
— Island 226.
— River 226. 284.
Middle Bay 119.
— Fork, the 267.
— Island 35.
— River 59. 60.
Middlechurch 250.
Middleton (N.S.) 75. 77.
— (Ont.) 235.
Midland 199. 189. 198.
Midway 288. 280.
Migaick 163.
Mile Bnd 175.
Miles Cafion 302.
Milestone 254.
Milford Bay 201.
Milk River 266.
, the 266.
Millbank Sound 295.
Millertown 121.
— Junction 121.
Mill Stream 92.
Milltown 43.
MiUville 89.
Milton (Ont.) 206. 210.
Milton (P.E.I.) 100.
Milwaukee Junction 206.
Mimico 209.
Minas, Bay of 72. 83.
Mine Centre 244.
Miniota 252.
Minneapolis 249.
Minnedosa 251.
Minnewanka, Lake 261.
Miquelon 124. 68. 114.
Mira 69.
Miramichi, the 83. 37. 40.
Mirror Lake 269.
Miscou 89. 90.
Miscouche 101.
Mispec 33.
Missanabie 234.
Missiguash, the 86.
Mission Junction 284.
— Point 91.
Missisquoi, the 18.
Mississaga Point 189.
Mississippi Lake 231.
— River 231.
Missouri Coteau 254.
Mistake, the 34.
Mistassini, Lake 165.
-, the 164.
Mitre Pass 269.
Moat Mt. 19.
Moberley 278.
Mobile 113.
Mohawk Valley 16.
Moira 182.
Moisic 4.
Monadnock, Mt. 17.
Moncton 87. 48. 77.
Money Gove 45.
Monnoir, Mt. 19. 136.
Montana Junction 266.
Montarville 188.
Monte, Pointe de 4. 227.
Montebello 184. 175.
Montfort Junction 175.
Montmagny 95.
Montmorency 159.
— Falls 159. 96.
Montpelier 15. 18.
— Junction 15.
Kontreal 125.
Aberdeen School 137.
Amusements 126.
Archbishop^s Palace
183.
Armoury 138.
Art Gallery 134.
Bank of Montreal 130.
Baths 127.
Blind Asylum 134.
Board of Trade 137.
Bonsecoors Church 132.
— Market 182.
Gabs 126.
Montreal :
Cathedral of St. James
188.
Cemeteries 136.
Ghamp-de-Mars 181.
GhristchurchCathedral
138.
City Hall 131.
Civic Museum 131.
Clubs 127.
College de Montreal 135.
College of Philosophy
185.
Commerce 129.
Commissioners St. 132.
Congregational Coll.
Conservatorium of
Music 136.
Consuls 127.
Convents 187.
Court House 131.
Custom House 132.
Dominion Square 133.
Ch. 183.
Dorchester St. 134.
Environs 138.
Erskine Ch. 135.
Examining Warehouse
182.
Exhibitions 127.
Fraser Institute 138.
Free Libraries 131. 134.
186.
Gesti, Church of the
184.
O. T. Railway Building
132.
Grey Nunnery 134.
Harbour 182.
— Office 182.
High School 137.
History 128.
Hospitals 137.
Hdtel Dieu 136.
Hotels 125.
House of Refuge 134.
Industry 129.
Information Bureau
128.
Jacques Cartier Sch.
Sq. 131.
Jesuit OoUege 134.
Lacroiz House 131.
Lafontaine Park 137.
Lrfval University 138.
McGill Street 132.
— Normal School 186.
— University 185.
Medical School 188.
Monklands 137.
Mount Royal Park 186.
INDEX.
321
Montreal :
Nat. Hist. Museum 133.
News^pers 127.
New York Insurance
Bldg. 131.
Notre DameChurch ISO.
de Lourdes 134.
Street 181. 128.
Orphan Asylum 134.
Place d'Armes 180.
Post Office 127. 131.
Presbyterian Oh. 134.
— College 186.
Private Houses 138.
Bailway Stations 125.
132. 133.
Bamezay, Ch&t. de 131.
Redpath Library 135.
— Museum 136.
Reformatory 184.
Reservoir 136.
ResUurants 126.
St. Andrew's 182.
— Catherine St. 133.
128. 134.
— George's 133.
— Helen's Island 187.
136.
— James's Ch. (Metb.)
134.
(B.C.) 134.
St. 181. 128.
— John's 137.
— Patrick's 183.
— Peter's 133.
— SulpicCf Seminary
Sherbrooke St. 135.
Shops 127.
Skating Rinks 126. 133.
Sovereign Bank 137.
Statue of Bishop
Bourget 138.
Fulford 133.
Chenier 132.
Macdonald 133.
■ MaiiOnneuvel31.
Nelson 131.
Queen Victoria
182. 186.
Steamers 126.
Strathcona Hall 136.
Synagogue 137.
Telegraph Offices 127.
Theatres 126.
Tramways 126.
Union, the Students*
136.
Victoria Bridge 187. 14.
— CoUege 136.
— HospiUl 136.
— Sqtiare 182.
Vigor Square 132.
Babdbkek's Canada.
Montreal:
Villa Maria Convent
187.
War Monument 133.
Wesleyan College 136.
Westmount 136.
Windsor Hotel 183.
T. M. C. Association
183.
Montreal Junction 48.
186.
— Island 138. 186. 186.
Mont Tremblant 157.
Moon River 203.
Moose, the 76.
— Creek 176.
Moosehead 46.
— Lake 46. 24.
Moose Island 42.
— Jaw 254.
— Lake 237.
— Mountain District 252
— River 234.
Moosilauke. Mt. 18.
Moosomin 262.
Moraine Lake 269. 270.
Morell 101.
Morley 257. 262.
Morris 249. 252.
Morrisburg 229. 188.
Morse 264.
Mortimer's Point 203.
Mosherville 83.
Mountain Creek 274.
Mount Albert 190.
— Albion 101.
— Clemens 206.
— Desert 24.
— Hector Lake 270.
— Stewart 101.
— Uniacke 71.
Mouse River 251.
Moville 3. 8.
Moyie 267.
— Lake 267.
Mud Lake 183.
Mudge, Cape 294.
Muir Glacier 304.
Molgrave 61.
Muniac 40.
Murillo242.
Murray Bay 168. 95.
— Harbour 101.
— River 101.
Muskoka Lake 201. 199.
203.
— River 200. 201. etc.
— Wharf 200. 197. etc.
Musk-Rat Lakes 231.
Musquash 42.
— Islands 35.
— River 203.
Myrtle 188. 190.
8rd Edit.
Nackawic 39.
Nain (Labrador) 117.
Nakusp 287. 289.
Nanaimo 294. 292.
Nancy Head 44.
Napanee 189. 187.
Napinka 249. 260. 202.
Naples 9.
Nappan 86.
Nares Lake 802.
Nashua 17.
Nashwaak, the 34. 36. 38.
etc.
Nashwaaksis, the 38.
Nasse River 296.
Natashquan 4.
Nat. Belyea'8 84.
Nation River 175. 176.
Natural Steps 159.
Navan 175.
Navesink Highlands 6.
Navy Island (Niag.) 221.
(Passamaquoddy -
^ Bay) 42.
Neche 249.
Needles, the 6.
Neepawa 263.
— Junction 263.
Negro Island 81.
Nelson 288. 289. 288.
— , the 250.
Nerepis, the 84.
Net Lake 238.
Netley 250.
New Annan 100.
— Bandon 89.
Newboro 183.
New Brighton 2.
— Brunswick 36. 26. 95.
xxvi.
Newburg Junction 39. 40.
Newburyport 19. 24.
New Carlisle 92. 90.
Newcastle (N. B.) 88.
— (Ont.) 189.
Newfoundland 102. 3.
New Germany 77.
— Glasgow 60.
— Haven 15.
Newington 182.
New Llskeard 239.
— Liverpool 167.
Newmarket 198.
Newport (Me.) 24.
— (N. H.) 18. 16. 20.
— (N. S.) 71.
— (P. Q.) 90.
New Richmond 90. 92.
— Toronto 209.
— Westminster 284.
— Whatcom 284.
York 10. jjp
Niagara, Falls of iBr
322
INDEX.
Niagara, Escarpment 324.
— FMlB (N.Y.)215. 5»9.
213. etc.
(Ont.) 216. 211.213.
— -on-the-Lake 208. 213.
— Eiver 216. 208. 213. etc.
Kicola 282.
-> Lake 282.
— River 282.
Nicolet lU. 140.
-, the 141. 144.
Nicolume, the 283.
Nicomen 284.
Nictau Lake 40.
Nictanz 71.
Victor Lake 40.
Nigadoa, the 89.
mpigon 235.
— , Lake 235.
— Bay 235.
— Eiyer 236.
Nipi8iguit, the 89. 40.
— Bay 89.
— Falls 40.
KipissiDg Junction 201.
— , Lake 233. 201. 237.
Noel 83.
Nome 306. 304.
Nominine 176. 142.
Norman 248.
— , Cape 108.
North, Gape 115.
Northampton (Mass.) 15.
-- (N. B.) 39.
North Battleford 263.
— Bay 233. 201.
-^ Bend 283.
— Cape 101.
— Channel 223.
— Conway 19. 26.
— End 31.
Northern Bight 121.
North Hampton 19.
— Hatley 20.
— Head 45.
— Hero 14.
— Lake 236.
— Lubec 22.
— Mt. 75. 74. 76. etc.
Northport 288. 289.
North Portal 264.
— Sea 8.
— Shore 19.
— Strattord 26.
— Sydney 68.
Northumberland Strait
97. 61. 64.
North -West Arm 69. 51.
River 118.
Territories 263.
ZZTi.
North Wiltshire 100.
North Woodstock 18.
Norton 48.
— Mills 26.
— Sound 304.
Norwood 187.
Notch Hill 281.
Notre Dame Bay (Nfd.)
116. 104. 121. etc.
des Anges 142,
du Lac 95.
du Portage 95.
Nottawasaga Bay 198.
Nouvelle 92.
Novar 200.
Nova Scotia 52. xxvi.
xxxvi.
Noyan Junction 16. 141.
Oak Bay (B. C.) 291.
(N. B.) 43.
, the 43.
~ Island 78.
— Lake 252.
— Point (ManO 250.
(N. B.) U.
— River 252.
Oakville (Man.) 262.
— (Ont.) 209.
Ochre River 263.
Odaray, Mt. 272.
Oesa, Lake 269.
Ogden, Mt. 270.
Ogdensburg 229.
Ogilvle's Butte 235.
O'Hara, Lake 271. 269.
Oka 186. 174.
Okanagan Landing 280.
— Lake 280.
Old Barns 84.
— Bishop or Bishop^s
Head 46.
— Kasan 29a
— Lake Road 96.
— Man River 267. 267.
— Metlakatla 296.
— Orchard Beach 24.
— Perlican 116.
Olds 257.
Old Smoky Head 69.
Oldtown 24.
Olympie Mts. 289.
Onaphig 234.
Onawa 46.
One Hundred and Fifty
Mile House 282.
Ontario, Lake 208. 189.
191. xxxvi. xxxrii.
— , Peninsula of 206. 193.
— , Province of 192. xxvi.
xxxvi.
Opeongo Lakes 204.
Orangedale 63.
Orangeville 222. 206.
Orford, Mt. 18.
Orillia 199.
Orleans, Isle of 157. 96.
146.
Orme*s Head 5.
Oromocto 35.
— , Lake 25.
— , the 34 35.
— Island 36.
Orwell 100.
Oshawa 189.
Osier 253.
Ossining 13.
Ossipee Mts. 19.
Ostersund 243.
Oswegatchie, the 229.
Otnabog 85.
Otonabee, the 187.
Ottawa 176.
Art Gallery 180.
Basilica 180.
Boer War Monument
181.
Bridges 179.
Cabs 176.
Canal Driveway 181.
Carnegie Library 181.
Cathedral 180.
Chaudi^re Falls 180.
City Hall 181.
Collegiate Institute 181.
Consul 177.
Court House 181.
Courts, Supreme Law
179.
DrUl Hall 181.
Environs 182.
Experimental Farm
Fisheries Exhibit 180.
Gaol 181.
Geological Museum 179.
Government Buildings
177.
Grey Nunnery 180.
Hospitals 181.
Hotels 176.
Kettle Island 182.
Langevin Block 178.
Lansdowne Park 181.
Library of Parliament
178.
Lovers* Walk 179.
Major^s HiU Park 179.
Ministerial Ofaces 178.
Nepean Point 179.
Normal School 181.
Observatory 182.
Parliament, Houses of
178.
Post Office 177.
Printing Bureau 180.
RaUway Stations 176.
INDEX.
323
Ott&wa:
Restaurants 176.
Rideau Club 177.
— Falls 180.
— Hall 180.
Rifle Range 181.
.Rockcliflfe Park 181.
Sparks Street 177.
Stanley Institute 181.
Statue of Bishop
Guigues 180.
Cartier 179.
Macdonald 179.
Mackenzie 179.
Queen Victoria
179.
Steamers 177.
Strathcona Park 181.
Sussex Street 179.
Theatres 177.
Tramways 176.
University 181.
Water -Works 181.
Wellington Street 179
OtUwa, the 184. 126. etc
Ottertail 2T8. 272.
— , the 273.
— Mts. 271. 273.
Ouiatchouan, the 164. 166.
— Falls 164. 165.
Ovens Head 81-
— Peninsula 79.
Owen Sound 222. 203.
Owl's Head 18.
Oxbow 252.
Oxford 85.
Pabineau Falls 89.
Pabos 90.
Painsec Junction 87.
Pakenham 231.
PalUser Mts. 261.
Palmer's Point 34.
Palmyra 21.
Papineauville 184. 175.
Paradise 75.
— Valley 269. 270.
Paris 213.
Parkbeg 254.
Parkdale (Man.) 250.
— (Ont.) 205. 206. 209. etc.
Parkhill 205.
Parrsboro 85. 74.
Parry Island 204.
— Sound 204. 223.
Partridge Island (N.B.)
23. 77.
(N. S.) 85.
Pasp^biac 92. 90.
Pasqua 254.
Passadumkeag 24.
Passamaqnoddy Bay 22.
44. 45.
Passumpsic, the 18.
Patapedia, the 90.
Patterson Glacier 299.
Paul Smith's 16.
Paul's Peak 281.
Peace River 264. xl.
Peachland 280.
Pearl 235.
— Lake 163.
Peechee, Mt. 258. 259. 262.
Peekskill 13.
Peel 40.
Pel^e Island 214.
-, Point 207. 214.
Pelly River 303.
Pembina 249.
Pembroke 231. 182. 204.
Pendleton 175.
Penetang or Penetang-
uishene 198.
Penguin Islands 114.
Peninsula 236.
Pennfield 42.
Penny's Mt. 84.
Penobscot, the 24. 25. 46.
Penticton 280.
Pentland Firth 9.
Perc^ 91.
— Rock 91.
Percival 252.
Peribonka, the 164.
Peril Strait 305.
Perrot (Isl.) 186. 230.
Perth (N. B.) 40.
— (Ont.) 186.
Peterborough 187.
Petitcodiac 48.
— , the 48. 87.
Petite Roche 89.
Petit Nord 103.
Pettapiece 252.
Pettes's Cove 45.
Petty Harbour 113.
Pic River, the 234.
Pickering 190.
Picton 189. 187.
Pictou 60. 59. 86.
— Island 97.
— Landing 60.
Piedmont Valley 61.
Pigeon Lake 187.
— Mt. 257.
Piles Junction 140.
Pilgrim Islands 168.
Pilley's Island 116. 104.
Pilot, Mt. 268. 262.
— Bay 288.
— Butte 252.
Pincher 267.
— Creek 267.
Pine, Cape 114.
— River 263.
Pinnacle Mt. 269,
Pitt Island 295.
— Lake 284.
— Meadows 284.
Pittas Landing 34.
Placentia 120. 104. etc.
— Bay 114. 121. 108. etc.
Plaisance 175.
Plantagenet 176.
Plaster Rock 40.
Plattsburg 13.
Pleasant Bay 60.
— Beach 92.
— Xake 80.
— Point(Kawartha L.)187.
— — (Passamaqnoddy
Bay) 42.
Plumas 263.
Plymouth 18.
— Bay 7.
Pogamasing 234.
Point k Beaulieu 168.
Point Aconi 67.
— Bourdo 90.
— du OhSne 87. 97. 98.
Pointe k Pic 168.
— aux Anglais 185.
— aux Trembles (Isl. of
Montreal) 143.
(near Quebec) 144.
— Bleue 165.
— Brise-Culottes 170.
— du Lac 139.
— La Boule 170.
— Noire 169.
Point Enrag€ 81.
Pointe Roches 171.
Point La Garde 92.
— L^vis 157. 144.
— Platon 144.
— St. Charles 14.
— St. Peter 91.
— Tupper 61. 62.
— Verde 121.
Pokemouche Junction 89.
Pokiok 39.
Pol let River Falls 48.
Pollux, the 279.
Pomquet 61.
Ponemah 260.
Ponoka 257.
Pont Rouge 140.
Pope's Peak 269.
Poplar Point 250.
Porcher Island 295.
Porcupine Hills 257.
PorUge 101.
— Junction 249. 262.
— Lake 202.
— -la-Prairie 251. 262.
Port Arthur 236. 226. 244.
— -au-Port 115. 104.
— -aux-Basques 115. etc,
-Blandfor^.l21^_T^
idford^l21._T^
324
INDEX.
Port Byng 200.
— Oarling 201. 202.
— Chester 298.
— Clyde 80.
— Cockbani203.20a.204.
— Colborne 211. 191.
— Credit 209. 191.
— Dalhousie 211. 191.
— Daniel 90.
— Darling 226.
— Dover 211.
— Essington 296.
— Fortune 171.
— George 75.
— Hastings 62. 61.
— Henry 13.
— HiU 101.
— Hood 63. 60.
— Hope 189. 226.
— Huron 206. 200.
— Joli 81.
— Julian 200.
— Kent 13.
PorUand (Me.) 24. 22. 25.
etc.
— (N. B.) 31.
— (Ont ) 183.
— Jnlet 296.
Port Latour 81.
— Med way 81.
— Moody 284. 281.
— Morien 69.
— Mouton 79. 81.
— Mulgrave 61.
— Nelson 260.
Portneuf 140. 144.
Port Perry 188.
— Sandfield 202.
— Saunders 119.
— Simpson 296.
Portsmouth 19. 24.
Port Stanley 213.
Portugal Cove 112.
Port Union 190.
— Williams 74.
Poughkeepsie 13.
Powassan 201.
Powell 263.
Pownal 99.
Prescott 229. 182. etc.
President, the 273. 272.
— Range 271.
Presque Isle (Me.) 40.
(Pa.J 214.
Preston WfT,
Presumpscot, the 25.
Prim Point 97.
Prince Albert 253. 263.
— Edward Island 97. 98.
xxvi. xzzvi.
— — Peninsula 189.
— of Wales Island 288.
Mts. 296.
Princeport Boad 83.
Prince Rupert 296. 307.
Princess Royal Island296.
Prince WUliam 39.
Sound 306.
Procter 289.
Profile House 20.
Prospect Hill 18.
Pubnico 80.
— Harbour 80. 82.
Pugsley's Island 34.
Pugwash 85.
— Junction 86.
Purcell Range 267.
Purity, Mt 278.
Purple Springs 266.
Pnt-in-Bay Islands 214.
Pyramid Harbor 301.
— Peak 304.
ftuaco 48.
Qu' Appelle 252.
-, the 252. 253.
Quatawamkedgewick,
the 90.
duebec 145.
Abraham, Plains of
146. 154.
All Saints Chapel 151.
Amusements 146.
Archbishop''s Palace
Athletic Assoc. 164.
Basilica 151.
BoswelPs Brewery 156.
Cabs 145.
Cathedral, Anglican
151.
-, R. C. 151.
Cemeteries 155.
Champlain Market 156.
-- Statue 149.
— Steps 155.
— Street 156.
Chateau Frontenac Ho-
tel 150. 149.
Chien d'Or Bldg. 151.
Citadel 149. 146.
— Walk 149.
City Hall 152.
Clubs 146.
Congregation , Ch. of
the 150.
Consul 145.
C6te de la Montagnel55.
Court House 161.
Cove Fields 154,
Custom House 156.
Departmental Build-
ings 163.
Drill Hall 154.
Dufferin Terrace 148.
Durham Terrace 149.
Quebec:
Elevator 146. 149.
Environs 167.
Esplanade 160.
Ferries 146.
Fortifications 149.
Franci8canConveatl54.
Gaol 154.
Gates 149. 160.
Garrison Club 163.
Governor^ Garden 149.
Grand Battery 150.
Grande All^e 154.
Historical Society 153.
History 147.
Hospitals 156. 166.
Hotel Dieu 152. 150.
Hotels 146.
Immigration Office 156.
Laval Mon. 151.
— University 162. 150.
Libraries 162. 153.
Louise Basin 166.
Lower Town 146. 165.
Martello Towers 154.
Methodist Church 153.
Montcalm Market 150.
Morrin College 163.
Mountain Hill St. 150.
155.
Museums 152.
Notre Dame des Vic-
toires 155.
Observatory 164.
Parliament Building
163. 150.
Picture Gallery 152.
Place d'Armes 151.
Post Office 145. 151.
Public Park 154.
Queen Victoria Men.
157.
Railway Stations 145.
166.
Restaurants 145.
Ste. Foye Mon. 155.
St. Joseph St. 156.
— Louis St. 168.
— Paul St. 156.
— Peter St. 156.
— Roch 146. 156.
— Sauveur 146. 167.
Saultau-Matelot 15a
Seminarv of Q. 152.
Shops 146.
Short and Wallick Moc.
154.
Sillery 145. 165.
Skating Rink 154.
Sous-le-Cap 8t. 166.
Sous-le-Fort St 165.
Spencer Grange 165.
Digitized by
,^6A^le
INDEX.
325
Qnebee:
Steamers 145.
Tramways 146.
Upper Town 146.
Ursoline Convent 163.
Vietoria Park 156.
Walls 160.
War Mon. 150.
Wharfs 145.
Wolfe Mon. 164. 163.
— and Montcalm Mon.
149.
Quebec, Province of 148.
3. 91. xxvi.
— Junction 20. 26.
Queen Charlotte Islands
296.
— Charlotte^s Sound 295.
Queensbury 39.
Queenston 206. 213.
Queenstown 6.
Quesnelle 282.
— Forks 282.
Quidi Vidi 112.
Lake 112.
Quilchenna 281.
Quints, Bay of 189.
Quoddy Head 22.
Eabbit Creek 237.
— Mt. 242.
Race, Cape 113. 110. 4.etc.
Radnor 267.
Rainy Lake 204.
— River 244.
, the 243. 2U.
Raley 266.
Rama 199.
Rampart, the 279.
Ramseyville 182.
Random Island 120.
Rantem 121.
Rapid City 261.
Rapide Plat 229.
Raquette Lake 16.
Rathlin, Island of 3.
Rat Portage see Kenora.
Ravensworth 204.
Ray, Cape 115. 103. 124.
Raymond 266.
Reauz Island 167.
Red Bay 119.
— Deer 267.
, the 257.
~ Indian Lake 104.
— Island 169.
— Pine 89.
— River243.2U.249.etc.
— Water 237.
Regina 263. 250.
Renews 113.
Renfrew 231. 187. 203.
Bennie 243.
Rensselaer 13. 14.
Repentigny 143.
Restigonche, the 90. 37.
41.
Resurrection Bay 301.
Revelstoke 279. 287.
Revillagigedo 298.
— Channel 298.
Rib Lake 238.
Rice Lake 187. 189.
Richardson 253.
Richelieu, the 14. 15. 16.
19. 47. etc.
Richford 18.
Richibucto 88.
Richmond 141. 26.
— Bay 100.
Rideau, the 176. 177.
183. etc.
— Canall77.179.183.etc.
— Lakes 183.
Ridgetown 212.
Ridout 234.
Rifle Ranges 209.
Rigaud 174. 185.
Rigolet (Labrador) 117.
118.
Riley Brook 40.
Rimouski 93. 4.
— , the 93.
Rink Rapids 303.
River Denys 63.
— Glade 48.
— John 85.
— PhiUp 85.
Riversdale (Lunenburg,
N.8.) 77.
— (near Truro, N.S.) 59
Riverside 48.
Riviere k Pierre 163. 142
— k Rouge 170.
— aux Pins 162.
Rats 163.
Sables 166.
— des Chiens 160.
— du Loup 94. 168.
^ du Sud 95.
— Quelle 95. 168.
Wharf 95.
Roach's Point 198.
Robbinston 43.
Roberval 164.
Robinson 302.
Robinson's 123.
Robson 288. 289.
Rochester (N.H.) 19.
— (N.Y.) 21. 189. 227.
Rockford 222.
Rockingham 83. 58.
Rock Lake 204.
Rockland 184. 176.
RockMe 232.
Rockport 24.
Rockwood 206.
Rocky Lake 84.
— Mts. 254. xxxix. xli.
etc.
Park 269. 267.
— Point 100.
Rodney, Cape 306.
Rogers Pass 274. 276.
— Peak 278. 274.
Rome 21.
Romford 283.
Roosevelt 244.
Rosade lies 4.
Roseberry 289.
Rose Blanche 115.
Rosedale 187.
Rose Head 81.
Rosenfeld 252.
— Junction 249.
Rose Point 204.
Roseway, Cape 81.
Rosseau 202. 203. 204.
-, Lake 202. 201.
Rossbura 263.
Rossignol, Lake 79. 77.
Rossland 288.
Ross Peak 274.
Siding 279.
Rossport 236.
Rosthern 253.
Rothesay 48. 33.
Rotterdam 8.
Rougemont 19.
-, Mt. 16. 136. 138.
Rouleau 254.
Roundhill 75.
Round Island 228.
Rouse's Point 14. 176.
Rousseau's Mill 142.
Roxborough 237.
Royal, Mt. 128. 138.
Royalty June. 100. 101.
Ruby Creek 2^.
Rundle, Mt. 262. 268. etc.
Rush Lake 254.
Rushy Pond 122.
Rusiagomis 88.
Russell (Man.) 261.
— (Out.) 182.
Rustico 100.
Ruth Glacier 306.
Rutland 11. 17.
Rye Beach 19.
Sable, Cape 23.
Saco 24.
— River 24.
Sackville 86.
Saddle Mt. 270. 269.
Saginaw Channel 300.
Saguenay, the 170. 165.
4. etc.
-, the Little 163.
Digitized by
Googk
326
INDEX.
St. Agapit 141.
— Albanf 15. 188. 176.
Head 6.
— Alexandre 95.
— Alexis 171.
— Alphonse 171.
— Ambroise 162.
— Anaclet 93v
— Andr^ 96.
— Andrews 42. 26.
Channel 67.
— — Grossing 42. .
— Anne, Mt. 91.
, Peninsula of 67.
Mts. 4.
— Anne^s Bay 66.
— Anselme 2i.
— Anthony 116.
— Ars6ne 94.
— Augustin 144.
— Barnab^ Island 93.
— Basil 41.
— Bernard's 82.
— Boniface 249. 244. etc.
— Brigide Boad 19.
— Catharine's (Ont) 211.
(P.Q.) 162.
Bay 170.
— Charles (Man.) 262.
(P. Q.) 96.
, Cape 119.
, Lake 161.
, the 146. 158. etc.
— Cesaire 19.
— Clair Lake 206. 207.
River 206. 207. 227.
etc.
Tunnel 206.
— Constant 47.
— Croix, the 43. 26. etc.
— Edward 140.
— Elias Mt. 306. 297.
— Etienne Bay 170.
— Eugfene 140.
— EusUche 175.
— Fabien 94.
— Famine 158.
— Faustin 175.
— F^lix de Valois 142.
— F^r^ol, Falls of 160.
— Francis, the 26. 34. 47.
etc.
, Cape 115.
, Lake 229.
de Sales 164.
— Franjois 96. 166. 143.
etc.
, Cap 171.
Xavier 167.
— Gabriel 162.
de Brandon 142.
— G^d^OB 166.
— George 42.
St. George, Bay 115. etc<
, Cape 61.
— George's 123.
Bay 61. 64.
Channel 5.
Lake 123.
— Germain 140.
de Bimouskl 98.
— Guillanme 19.
— Henri 14. 188.
HUaire (N. B.) 95.
(P. Q.) 141. 138.
, Mt. see Beloeil Mt.
— Hubert, Lake 94.
— Hyacinthe 141.47. 140.
— Ir^n^e 167.
— Jacques (Nfd.) 114.
(P. Q.) 142.
— Janvier 175.
— Jean 158. 166.
des Chaillons 140.
144.
Port Joli 95.
- J^rdme (near Lake St.
John) 166.
(inW. Quebec) 142.
175.
— Joachim 160.
St. John (N.B.) 27.
Amusements 28.
Banks 30.
Baptist Churches 31.
Bishop's Palace 81.
Cabs 27.
Cantilever Bridge 32.
Carleton 32. 28. 31.
Cathedral 31.
Charlotte Street 30. 28.
Church of the Assump-
tion 32.
City Hall 30.
— Hospital 31.
Consuls 28.
Courtenay Bay 81.
Court House 30.
Custom House 80.
Exhibition Bldgs. 30.
Falls of St. John 32.
Ferries 28. 82.
Fort Howe Hill 31.
Gaol 80.
Germain Street BO, 28.
Harbour 82.
Hazen Avenue 30.
High School 31.
History 28.
Holy Trinity Church 31.
Hotels 27.
Incurable8,Home forSL
Information Bureau 28.
Jenny's Spring 81.
King Square 29.
King Street 80. 28.
St. John
Lancaster Heights 82,
Lily Lake 88. 81.
Lunatic Asylum 32.
Madras School 81.
Market 80.
— Slip 30.
— Square 80.
Marsh Bridge 81. 33.
Martello Tower 82.
Masonic Temple 81.
Methodist Ch. 30. 81.
Military Grounds 80.
Mt. Pleasant 81. 28.
Nat. Hist. Society 81.
Navy Island 32. 28.
New Brunswick Sch.
32.
North End 81.
Old Graveyard 80.
Orphan Asylums 81.
Post Office 28. 30.
Prince William St. 80.
Public Library 80.
Queen Square 30. 28.
Railway Stations 27.
Reed's Point Wharf 80.
Biverview Memorial
Park 33.
RockWood Park S3. 81.
St. Andrew's 81.
— David's 81.
— James's 81.
— John's 81.
— John the Baptist's 81.
— Paul's 81.
— Stephen's 81.
Seaside Park 82.
Skating Rink 81.
Steamers 28.
Stone Church 81.
Suspension Bridge 82.
Tramways 27.
Trinity Church 30.
Victoria School 31.
West End 32. 28. 3l.
Wiggins Orphanage 31.
York Theatre 31.
T.M.C. Association 80.
St. John, the 83.82. 25. 28.
V Cape (Nfd.) 116.
117.
, Lake 164. 199.
— John's (Nfd.) 109. 118.
(P. Q.) 14. 15. etc.
Bay 170.
— Johnsbury 18. 20.
— Joseph 96. 157.
Island 224.
, Lake 162.
— Jovite 176.
— Lambert 14. 19. 188.
141. jOOgle
INDEX.
327
St Laurent Qitai.) 260.
— (P. Q.) 1^. 166. .
— Lawrence Gulf 3.
Eiver 227. 4. 185.
143. xxxvi. etc.
— Leonard 140.
— Leonardos 41.
— Leon Springs 139.
— Lin 175.
— Louis 88.
, Lake 230. 186.
, tjie 227.
Isle 170.
Rapids 19.
— Marc 143.
— Margaret 175.
— Margaret's Bay 58. 78.
81.
— Martinis 48.
Junction 139. 175.
— Mary's (N. B.) 38. etc.
(Nfd.) 114.
(Ont.) 205.
Bay (Nfd.) 114.
(N. S.) 82.
Canal 225.
River (Alb.) 266.
267.
— (Lake Huron)
224.227.
(N. S;) 61.
— Maurice, the 140. etc.
— Michaers 301. 806.
— Michel de Bellechasse
166. 96.
— Octave 93.
— Paschal 95.
— Patrick's Brook 122.
Channel (Ire.) 2.
(N.8.) 68.
— Paul 249.
— Paurs Bay 167.
— Peter, Lake 143.
— Peter's (C. B. I.) 65.
(P. E. I.) 102. 62.
Bay 102.
Lilet 65.
— Philippe 47.
de Neri 95,
— PhiUp's 112. 120.
— Pierre (Montmagny,
P. Q.) 96.
(Kicolet, P.Q.) 161.
(Isle d'OrWans) 158.
, Island of 124. etc.
— Piran, Mt. 270.
— Polycarpe June. 176.
— Prime 165.
— Raymond 162.
— Regis 229.
Palls 182.
— Romuald 157. 145.
— Shott's 114.
St. Simon 94.
Lake 94.
~ Stephen 43. 25.
— Sulpice 143.
— Thomas (Ont.) 212.
(P Q.) 95.
— Tite 142.
— Valier 96. 167.
— Vincent de Paul 139.
Ste. Agathe 175.
— Agnes 16S.
— Anne 2U.
, the 162.
de Beaupr^ 160.
de Bellevue see Ste.
Anne du Bout de Tile.
de la Perade 140.
144.
de la Pocatifere ^.
— deSaguenayl72.165.
du Bout de rile 185.
138. etc.
F^lls 160.
Mts. 160. 166.
— C^cile du Bic 94.
— Flavie 93.
— Helene 95.
— Julie 141.
— Justine 176.
— Marguerite, the 170.
— Pdtronille de Beaulieu
158.
• Rcalie 140.
— Rose 175.
— Scholastique 175.
— Thfecle 142.
— TWrfese 175.
Salamanca 38.
Salem 19. 24.
Salisbury 48.
Salmonier River 120.
Salmon Lake 93.
— River 119.
, the 34. 35. 59. etc.
Saltcoats 251.
Salt Hill 66.
— Springs 85.
Sambro, Cape 24. 81.
— Island 56.
Sanbomville 19.
Sand Lake 236.
, the 183.
Sandon 289.
Sand Point 231.
Sandusky 214.
Sandwich Mts. 19.
— River 59.
Sandy Hook 6.
— Point 115. 123.
Sangaree Island 69.
San Juan Islands 289.294.
de Fuca, Straits of
289.
Saranao Inn Station 16.
— Lake 16.
Saratoga Springs 13.
Samia 206.
Saskatchewan 252. 253.
xxvi. etc.
— , the 250. 251. 252. etc.
Saskatoon 258.
Saugeen Peninsula 224.
Sault k la Puce Falls 160.
— -au-R^collet 138. 139.
— -Ste-Marie (Mich.) 224.
206. 234.
(Ont.) 224. 206.
238.
Savage's Island 84.
Savanne 242.
Savonas 281.
Sawback 268.
— Range 268.
Saw-Tooth Mts. 302.
Sawyer Mts. 103.
Sayabec 98.
Scarboro Heights ISO.
— Junction 190.
Scatarie 69.
Scheldt, the 8.
Schenectady 16.
Schlosser Landine 221.
Schooner Cove 44.
Schreiber 235.
Scilly Isles 7. 8.
Sclater 263.
Scotia Bay 302.
— Junction 200. 204.
Scotstown 46.
Scottish Village 82.
Scott Junction 20.
Scovirs Point 35.
Scngog, Lake 188.
— River 188.
Seaforth Channel 2^.
Seal Cove 45.
— Island (Bay of Fundy)
81.
(N. S.) 23.
— Islands 45.
Seattle 284. 287. 306.
Sebago Lake 26.
Sebec, Lake 46.
Schools 46.
Sechelt 284.
Secretan 254.
Segain Falls 204.
— River 204.
Selkirk 250.
— Mts. 273. 275. xli. etc.
— Summit 274. 276.
Selwyn, Mt, 278. 273.
Senneville (Chit.) 186.
Sergent, Lake 162.
Serpent Island (L.Simcoe)
■edby
Google
328
INDEX.
Serpent River 233.
Seren Islandn (Bay) 4.
~ Persons 266.
Severn 199.
SeweU 251.
Seward City 301.
Seymonr Harrows 295.
Shadow Lake 269.
— River 202.
Shakespeare 205.
Shannonville 189.
Sbarbot ^ake 231.
Junction 187.
Sharp, Cape 74.
Shawenegan (orShawini*
gan) FaUs 140. 142.
— Junction 142.
Shawnigan Lake 292.
Shediac 87.
— Bay 87.
Sheffield 35.
— Academy 35.
Shefford Ht. 19. 186.
Sheho 251.
Shelburne 79. 81.
Shelby 266.
Shenaoadie 63.
Sheogomoc, the 39.
Sheol, Mt. 270.
Shepody Bay 87.
Sherbrooke (N. 8.) 61.
— (P. Q.) 47. 18. 20. 26.
Shewan 39.
Shick shock Hts. 90. xxxv.
Shippegan 89.
— Island 89. 90.
Shoal Harbour 121.
— Lake 250.
Shnbenacadie 84.
Shuswap 281.
— Lakes 280. 281.
— River 280.
Sicamous Junction 280.
Sicker, Mt. 292.
Sidney 292.
Sifton Junction 263.
Signal Hill 111. 109.
Sillery 155. 144. 145.
Silver Bow Mines 300.
Silverdale 212.
Silver Islet 226.
— Mountain 236.
— Tip Falls 280.
Simcoe, Lake 198. 188.
Similkameen District 281
283.
Simpson Pass 268.
Sing Sing m« Ossining.
Sintaluta 252.
Sirdar 268.
Sir Donald, Mt. 277.
Sissibou, the 82.
itka 305.
Six-Mile Creek 274.
Sixteen IsUnd Lake 176.
Skagway 301.
— River 302.
Skeena, the 296.
Skeleton Bay 202.
— Lake 200.
-• River 202.
Skerries, the 5.
Skiff Lake 25.
Slate Mts. 268.
Slocan City 288. 289.
— Junction 2fc'8.
— Lake 2S9.
Smelter Junction 283.
Smith's Falls 186. 182.
183. etc.
— Mills 20.
Smlthville 212.
Snowdon 5.
Soda Creek 282.
Solent, the 6.
Somerset 141.
Soo Ship Canal 225.
Sorel 143. 47. 141.
Soukhoi Channel 299. 300.
Soulanges Canal 230.
Souris (Man.) 251. 260.
— (P. B. I.) 102. 60.
-. the 261.
Southampton (Eng.) 6.7.8.
— (N. B.) 39.
— (Ont.) 205.
South Bay 34.
— Durham 141.
— Edmonton 264. 257.
Southern Cross 45.
— Head 44.
South Hero 14.
— Indian 176.
— March 203.
— Mountain 75. 76.
Southport 100. 101.
South River 200.
South Vernon 15.
South -West Head 45.
Spanish 238.
— River 233. 223.
Sparrow Lake 199.
Sparwood 267.
Spear, Cape 103. 118.
Spencer, Cape 77.
Spencers Bridge 282.
Spider Lake 46.
SpiUimacheen Valley 279.
Split, Cape 74.
— Rock Point 42.
Rapid 230. 16.
Spokane 289.
Spoon Island 36.
Sporting Mountain 62.
Sprague 244.
Sprague's Cove 46.
Spray, the 269. 260. etc
— Lakes 262.
Spring Coulee 286.
— Cove 182.
Springfield (Mass.) 16.
— (N. 8.) 77.
8pringhill(K.B.) 39.38.
— (N. S.) 86.
Spruce Brook 123.
Sprucedale 20&.
Spruce Lake 42. 33.
Spuyten Duyvil 13.
Creek 10. 11.
Spuzzum 283.
Stadacona 163.
Stair 265.
Stamford 16.
Stanbridge 16.
Stanfold 141.
Stanhope 101.
Stanley 236.
— Island 229.
— Junction 244.
Stanstead 20.
Junction 20.
Stardale 174.
Start Point 7.
Statue Point 171.
Stellarton 69.
Stephen 270.
-, Mt. 272. 271.
Stephens Passage 3(X).
Stephenville 123.
Sterritt's 34.
Steveston 287. 284.
Stewart River, the 303.
Stewiacke 84.
-, the 84.
— Mts. 84.
Stikine, the 299.
Stirling 266.
Stoeo, Lake 187.
Stonewall 260.
Stony Creek (B. C.) 274,
(Ont) 211. 212.
— Lake (Eawartha L.)
187.
(near Sundiidge)aOO.
— Squaw Mt. 259.
Stouffville Junction 190.
Strassburg 262.
Stratford 206.
Stratbeona 264. 267.
Strathlorne 63.
Strawberry Island 199.
Streets viUe Junction 206.
Sturgeon, the 233.
— Falls 233.
— Lake 187. 188.
Sudbury 233. xliii.
Suffield 256.
Suear Loaf (An^onish)
Digitized by
Googk
INDEX.
329
Si^ar Loaf (Campbellton)
'-, Mt. (B. 0.) 278.
— Island (L. Huron) 224.
(N.B.)39.
Solphor Mt. 262.
— Mt3. 259. 260.
— Springs (Ottawa) 182.
Sumas City 284.
Sam Dum Bay 300.
Sommerland 280.
Summerside 100. 86. 97.
Summit Lnke 280.
— Siding 289.
Sundance Canon 261.
Sandrid<£e 200.
Sunny Brae 69.
Superior, Lake {225. 234.
zxxvii.
Susetna, the 308.
Suspension Bridge 21.
Sussex 48.
Sutherland River 60.
Sutton 190.
— Junction 19.
Swallowtail Head 45.
Swampscott. 24.
Swan Lake 268.
— Eiver 263.
Valley 268.
Swansea (B. 0.) 267.
— (Ont.) 209.
Swanzy, Mt. 279.
Sweet Grass 266.
Swift Current 254.
Swiss Peak 274. 278.
Switchback 802.
Sydenham Biver 223.
Sydney 67. etc.
— Coal Fields 69.
Sylvester 59.
Syracuse 21.
Tableau, Le 171.
Table Head 67.
Tabusintac 88.
Tadousac 169.
Tagish Lake 302.
Takakkaw Falls 272.
Taku City 302.
— Inlet 800.
Tamagami, Lake 237.
Xanana 804.
— District 304. 301.
— River 804.
Tantalus Butte 803.
Tantramar, the 86.
— Marshes 86.
Tarrytown 13.
Tatamagouche 85.
Teeswater 222.
Temagami 237.
— Forest Reserve 237.
Temagami Island 287.
— , Lake 237.
Temiskaming, Lake tee
Lake Timiskaming.
Temiscouata, Lake95.
Temple, Mt. 270. 268.
Tennecape Mines 83.
Ten Peaks, the 270. 268.
269.
Terminal Citv 64.
Terra Nova 121.
River 121.
Terrebonne 139.
TSte-i-Gauche, the 89.
Teulon 250.
Texada Island 294.'
Thames, the 207. 205.
Thamesford 207.
The Brook 175.
Thessalon 233. 228.
Thetford 21.
Thief River FaUs 249.
Thirty Mile River 303.
Thomas Bay 299.
Thompson, the 281.
— Canon 282.
Thorburn Lake 121.
Thousand Islands (Sa-
guenay) 165.
, Lake of the 228.
— Park 228.
— Junction 188.
Three Mile Lake 202. 200.
— Rivers 139. 141. 144.
— Sisters 257. 25S.
— Valley Lake 280.
Thunder Bay 226. 235.
— Cape 226. 235.
— HiU 273.
Thurso 184. 175.
— Islands 184.
Tickle Harbour 119. 121.
Tidoish 86.
Tignish 101.
Tilt Cove 116.
Tilton 120.
Timiskaming 240. 232.
— Lake 239. 231. 232. etc.
Tintamarre Marshes 86.
Tobin Island 202.
Tobique, the 34. 40.
Togo 263.
Tolmie, Mt. 291.
— Channel 296.
Tonawanda 209.
Tondem Island 201.
TopsaU 120.
Torbay 112.
Torbrook Mines 75.
Tormentine, Cape 86. etc.
Toronto 190.
Allan Gardens 197.
Amusements 191.
Toronto :
Annesley Hall 196.
Arcades 193.
Armouries 195.
Art Exhibitions 191.
Banks 193.
Bloor Street 192.
Board of Trade 193.
Brown Statue 195.
Cabs 190.
Can. Life Assur.Co. 198.
Canadian Institute 195.
— Yacht Club 197. 191.
Carnegie Library 196.
Cemeteries 197.
Churches 197.
Church Street 194.
City Hall 194.
Clubs 191;
College Avenue 194.
Collegiate Institute 197.
Confederation Life As-
soc. Bldg. 194.
Consuls 191.
Court House 194.
Custom House 198.
Deaconesses^ Home 194.
Dental CoUege 196.
Don. Ravine of the 197.
Environs 197.
Episc. College 196.
£xhibitionGroundsl96.
Forts 196.
Front Street 193. 192.
Globe Office 193.
Government House 196.
Grange, the 196.
Grimsby Park 197.
High Park 196.
History 192.
Hortic. Gardens 197.
Hospital 197.
Hotels 190.
Incurables, Home for
197.
Industry 192.
Island, the 197. 191.
Jarvis Street 192.
King Fdward Hotel 193.
— Street 193. 192.
Knox College 195.
Law School 194.
Long Branch 197. 191.
Lome Park 197. 191.
Lunatic Asylum 196.
Macdonald Statue 195.
Mail-Empire Office 193.
McMaster Univ. 196.
Metropolitan Meth. Ch.
194.
Mowat Statue 195.
Munro Park 197.
Museum 195. jTp
330
INDEX.
Toronto :
Music, Conseryatory of
196.
— Hall 194.
Newspapers 191.
Normal and Model
Schools 191.
Observatory 196.
Osgoode Hall 194.
Parliament Bldg. 195.
Pharmacy, Coll. of 196,
Post Office 191. 194.
Prison 196.
Public Library 194.
Queen's Hall 196.
— Hotel 193.
— Park 194.
Queen Street 194.
— Victoria Statue 195.
Rail. Stations 190. 193,
Reformatory 196.
Reservoir Park 197.
Restaurants 190.
Riverdale Park 197.
Rosedale 192. 197.
Ryerson Statue 194.
St. Alban's Cath. 197.
St. Andrew's Ch. 196.
— George Street 192.
— Jameses Cathedral
193.
— Lawrence Hall or
Market 193.
— MichaeFs Cathedral
194.
College 196.
Schools 197.
Sherboume Street 192.
Simcoe Statue 195.
— Street 196.
Steamers 191.
Technical High Sch. 197.
Temple Building 194
Theatres 191.
Trade 192.
Tramways 191.
Trinity College 196.
Univ. Avenue 194.
— of Toronto 195.
Upper Can. CoU. 197.
Veterinary College 193
Victoria University 196.
— Park 19r.
Volunteer Mon. 195.
Wellington St. 192. 193
Wycliffe College 196.
Yonge Street 193. 192.
Toronto Junction 205.206.
222.
Tory Island 3. 4. 9.
Touchwood Hills 252.
Tourmente, Cap 167. 95.
160.
Tracadle (N. S.) 61.
— (P.E.I.) 101.
— (P. Q.} 89.
— Bay 101. 100.
Tracadiegafth, Mt 90. 92.
Tracidie Mills 89.
Trail 288.
Traverse, Cape 87. 100.
Treadwell 184.
— Gold Mine 300.
Trent, the 189.
Trenton 189. 187. 226.
Falls 16.
Waterway 189. 187.
Trepassey 114.
Tring Junction 21. 46.
Trinity 116. 120.
— , Cape 170.
— Bay (Nfd.) 116. 120. etc.
(P. Q.) 171.
Triton Club 163.
Trois Pistoles 94. 4.
— Rivieres 139.
— Saumons 95.
TroUtinderne, the 273.
Trout Creek 201.
— Lake (B. C.) 289.
(Out.) m
City 289.
Troy (N. H.) 17.
— (N. Y.) 14.
— (N. S.) 62.
Truro 84. 59.
Tsimpsean Peninsula 296,
Tuladi. the 95.
Tunnel 288.
— Mt. 260. 259. 262.
Tupper, Mt. 274. 278.
— Lake June. 16. 182.
Village 16.
Turtle Mt. 267.
Tuskar Rock Lightho. 5,
Tuaket 80.
— Islands 82.
— Lakes 80.
— River 80. 82.
Tweed 187.
Twillingate 116.
Twin Butte tee Mt.
Mackenzie.
Two Mt«., Lake of the
185. 174.
Tyrrell's Lake 266.
Uigg 101.
Uisge-Ban Fall* 66.
Unalaska 306.
Ungava (District) 253.
Upper Rawdon 83.
Upsala 242.
Upsalquitch, tho 90.
Upton 141.
Utica 16. 21.
Uto Peak 279.
Utopia, Lake 42.
Utterson 200.
Uzbiidge 190.
Val Morin 176.
Valcartier 162.
Valdes Island 294.
Valdez 806. 304.
Valleyfield 16. 176. 188. etc
Van Buren 46.
Vanceboro 25.
Vancouver 284. 290. 294.
306.
— , North 286.
— Island 292. 290.
VanHome Range 271. 272.
273
Vankleek Hill 174. 176.
Varcoe 251.
Varennes 143. 138.
Vassar 244.
Vaucluse 139.
Vaudreuil 186. 174. 188.
Vaux, Mt. 273. 272.
Vegreville 264.
Venelia 202. •
Verchferea 143. 138.
Verdigris Lake 266.
Vermilion 264.
— Forks 281.
— Lakes 262. 266. 268.
— River 234.
Vernon 280.
— , Lake 200.
Verstovaia, Mt. 305.
Victoria (B. C.) 289. xliv.
— (N. B.) 38.
-, Mt. 270. 269.
— Beach 77. 76.
Glacier 269.
— Lake 280.
Park 250.
— Peak 292.
Ville Marie 120.
^Ueroy 140.
Vinemount 212.
Virden 252.
Virginia Water 112.
Voynesenie 263.
Waasis 38.
Wabigoon 242.
— River 242.
Wabouchbagama,the 171.
Wachusett, Mt. 17.
Wakaml 234.
Wakefield 182.
Walcheren Island 8.
Walkerville 207.
— Junctioxt 207.
Wallace 86.
Walldon 262. i[^
INDEX.
331
Walsh 255.
Waltham (Mass.) 17.
— (Ont) 182.
Walton 83.
Wanapitei 233.
Wapefla 252.
Wapta, Mi. 272. 271.
— Lake 270.
Waputik Mts. 268.
Wardner 267.
Warman 263.
Warroad 244.
Washademoak, the 34.
— Lake 86.
Washago 199.
Washington, Mt. 20.
Waterbury 15.
Waterdown 209.
Waterford 213.
Waterloo 206.
Watenrllle 24.
Watt Junction 25.
Waverley Mines 60.
Wayagamak. Lake 163.
Wayland 284.
Weed Lake 252.
Weedon 21.
Weirs 18.
Welchpool 44.
Weldford 88.
Welland 213. 212.
— Canal 211.
Wellesley Island 228.
Wellington (B.C.) 292.
— (P. E. I.) 101.
Wells River 18. 16. 20.
Wendorer 184.
Wentworth 86.
Weser, the 8.
West, Cape 171.
— Albany 16.
Westboorne 251.
West Bay Road 68.
— Brook 122.
— Ghazy 13.
Westchester 85.
West End 82. 23. 28.
Westfield 34.
West Fort WilUam 242.
— Gore 83.
Westminster June. 234.
— Park 228.
Weston 205. 222.
Westport (N. Y.) 13.
~ (Ont.) 183. 188.
WestRiver(Pictou)60. 61.
(P. B. I.) 100.
— Robson 288.
— St. Modiste 119.
— Selkirk 250.
Westville 59. 60.
Westakiwin 257. 251,
Wexford 6.
Weybum 254.
Weymoath 182.
Whale Cove 46.
Whiskey Creek 261.
Whitboume Junction 120.
Whitby 190. 188.
White Creek 14.
Whitefish Bay 225;
— Lake 183.
Whitehall 13.
White Hill Plains 122.
~ Horse 802.
Rapids 302.
— Man Pass Trail 258.
— Mt. Notch 20.
— Mts. 19. 18. 25. etc.
Whitemouth 243.
White Pass 302.
" Plains 262.
— River 234.
, the 303.
Junction 15. 17. 20.
Waters 74.
Whitney 204.
Whittle, Cape 3.
Whonnock 284.
Whycocomagh 66.
— Bay 66.
Whyte, Mt. 269.
Whytewold 250.
Wiarton 205.
Wickham 85.
Widdifleld 237.
Wigan 802.
Wight, Isle of 7.
Wigwam 287.
Williams Creek 282.
WiUiamson^s Lake 280.
Wilmot 75.
— Spa Springs 75.
Wilno 204.
Winchester 186.
Wind Mt. 267.
Windermere (B.C.) 273.
— (Lake Rosseau) 202.
Windsor (N. S.) 71. 82.
— (Ont.) 207. 212. 213.
— (Vt.) 15.
— Junction 84. 71.
— Lake 112.
Windy Lake 234.
Wingham 222.
Winnifred 266.
Winnipeg 245. 243. 244.
— , Lake 250. 243.
— Beach 250.
— Junction 249.
Winnipegosis 263.
— , Lake 263.
Winnipesaukee, Lake 18.
19.
Winona 211.
Wiwaxy Peaks 271.
Wolf m
Wolfeborough 19.
Wolfe Island 203. 228.
— Lake 188.
Wolfe's Cove 144. 154.
Wolford 182.
Wolfville 78.
Wolseley 252.
Wolves, the 44.
Woman River 234.
Woodington 202.
Woodland 287.
Woodlands 250.
Woodman's 84.
Woodpecker 266.
Woods. Lake of the 243.
243. 2U.
Woodstock(N.B.)40J25.39.
— (Ont.) 207. 213.
— Road 39.
Woodward's Cove 45,
Wrangell 299.
— Narrows 299.
Wright, Mt. 304.
Wright^s Sound 296.
Yahk 267.
Yale 283.
Yamachiche 139.
Yamaska 143.
, the 19. 141.
— Mt. 19. 136.
Yarmouth (Me.) 25.
— (N. 8.) 80. 23. 82.
Yellow Grass 254.
Yoho 202.
— Ghfccier 272.
— Pass 271.
River 271.
— Valley 271. 272.
Yonkers 13.
York (Ont.) 190.
— (P.E.L) 101.
— , the (Gasp^) 91.
-, - (P. E. I.) 98. 100.
— Redoubt 56.
Yorkton 251.
Young's Point 187.
Youngstown 208.
Yukon (District) 253. 297.
293. xxvi.
— , the292.303.xxxix.xl.
etc.
Zarembo Island 299.
Zealand (N. B.) 89.
— (N. H.) 20.
Zeeland 8.
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